1 Yarn Manufacturing
1 Yarn Manufacturing
By Tekalgn M.
ጥቅምት/2015 ዓ/ም
October/2022 G.C.
1
Textile terms
• SPINNING:
• The extrusion of a solution of fiber-forming substances through holes in a spinneret
to form filaments (fiber spinning)
• The process or processes used in the production of single yarns.
• The process of converting staple or short lengths of fibers, into continuous yarn or
thread. (yarn spinning)
• YARN
• A generic term for a continuous strand of textile fibers, filaments, or
material in a form suitable for knitting, weaving, braiding, or otherwise
intertwining to form a
textile fabric.
• TWIST
• The number of turns about its axis per unit of length of a yarn, or textile
strand.
• Twist is expressed as turns per inch (tpi), turns per meter (tpm) or turns
per centimeter (tpc)
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Raw material properties and spinning Technologies
• Raw material represents about 50 - 75 % of the • Textile fibers’ diameter is
manufacturing cost of a short-staple yarn undetermined
• significance of the raw material for the yarn
producer • Therefore fiber and yarn fineness
• Fiber fineness determined by weigh to length ratio
• one of the three most important fiber 𝑚𝑎𝑠𝑠 𝑔
characteristics (length and strength) • 𝑡𝑒𝑥 = ∗ 1000
𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝑚)
• Determines how many fibers are present in the
cross-section of yarn of a given thickness. 𝑚𝑎𝑠𝑠 𝑔
• A multitude of fibers in the cross-section provide
• 𝑡𝑒𝑥 =
𝑙𝑒𝑛𝑔𝑡ℎ (𝐾𝑚)
high strength and better distribution in the yarn. Mic VALUE FINENESS
• Minimum spinning limit 30 but usually >100 up to 3.1 very fine
fibers 3.1 - 3.9 fine
• Influences medium (premium
4.0 - 4.9
• spinning limit range)
• drape of the fabric
• Yarn strength 5.0 - 5.9 slightly coarse
• luster
• yarn evenness above 6 coarse
• handle
• yarn fullness • productivity of the process.
Conversion factor: dtex = Mic × 0.394 3
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Fiber strength
Fiber elongation
• predominant characteristic • permanent elongation (plastic elongation)
• fiber does not return on relaxation
• most of the fibers are not usable for textiles
because of inadequate strength • elastic elongation
• fiber does return on relaxation
• Because fibers are binds in to yarn by twisting
• breaking elongation
• New spinning running speed is high • Extension of the fiber until it breaks
• Except for hydrophobic fibers (polyester, • permanent elongation and elastic elongation
polypropylene fibers) strength is moisture- together
dependent. • Form best deformation and recovery elastic
elongation is important for textile materials
• As moisture increase strength of:
• cotton fiber elongation
• Cellulosic fibers increase
• below 5.0 % = very low
• polyamide fiber decrease • 5.0 - 5.8 % = low
• Some significant breaking strengths of fibers are: • 5.9 - 6.7 % = average
• polyester fiber 35 - 60 cN/tex • 6.8 - 7.6 % = high
• above 7.6 % = very high
• cotton 15 - 40 cN/tex
• wool 12 - 18 cN/tex 5
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Chemical deposits
Neps Dust (sticky substances)
• Neps are small entanglements or knots of
fibers • small and
• There are two types of neps microscopic particles • Common sticky substance in
• fiber neps • Transporting in air cotton is called honey dew
• small knots that consist only of fibers with fiber • this is a secretion of white
• seedcoat neps • stress on personnel fly
• small knots containing foreign • dust is unpleasant • or the plants themselves
particles such as husk, seed or leaf (for eyes and nose)
fragments • allergies • Resist fiber opening and stick on
• amount of neps depends on • it can induce machine parts
• Maturitiy respiratory disease
• fiber fineness
• The processing method
• produced by picking and hard ginning
• up to 150 = very low • 350 - 450 = high;
• 150 - 250 = low • above 550 = very high
• 250 - 350 = average
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Conti…
Fiber characteristics which affect yarn breaking
force properties
Relative importance of the fiber
influences
• Influence of fiber parameters
• Differs for the individual spinning
systems,
• new or conventional
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Ginning
• Cotton fibers are produced in the seed pods (“bolls”) Objectives
of the cotton plant
• Remove seed from lint
• as a result, the fibers (“lint”) in the bolls are
interspersed with the seeds • Cleaning
• So it is necessary to separate the “seed” from “lint” • Remove foreign matters
• Ginning is the first mechanical process involved in • Compressing and packing bales for
processing cotton easy transportation
• Used to separate cotton fibers from their seeds • Control moisture
Cotton seed
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Types of ginning
Saw ginning
• separates the lint from the seed by pulling fibers by
saws through ribs.
• consists of a series of circular saws ( 305-407 mm in
diameter)
• mounted closely on an axle
• revolve at high speed to tear the lint away from a roll
of seed cotton.
• bars or ribs prevent the seed from going forward.
• the saw projects slightly between bars or ribs
• seed falls through a grid into a collecting box (
conveyer).
• lint is removed from teeth of the saws by high-speed
brushes or an air blast.
• used for short and medium staple cotton i.e. up to
28 mm
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Conti…
Roller ginning
- most suitable for ginning
- medium, long and extra long staple cotton varieties-
- b/c gentle as compared to saw ginning Principle of seed
separation:
- gripping and stretching of fiber though rollers/blades.
- consists of :
- Roller(leather surface) - to carry the seed cotton to a
stationary knife
- Stationary knife: prevents passing of seeds.
- reciprocating knife /rotary knife- beats the seed so that the
fibers are separated by a stretching action.
- due to a push-pull-hit action fibers are separated from the
seeds.
- Roller Gin preserves fiber length whereas Saw Gins have the
inherent
- disadvantage of breaking fiber, increasing short fiber
content and creating neps which are detrimental to lint spin
ability.
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Machine sequence
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Machine sequence
1. Feeder
• The stationary head feeder employs a 2. Dryer
dispersing head with spiked rollers for
breaking apart the module. • heated air conveys the cotton
• modules are transported to the through the shelves for 10-15 sec.
stationary dispersing head on a series of
beds • Fiber breaking force increases
• The stationary dispersing head is with fiber moisture content
equipped with a series of horizontal
spiked cylinders • But excessive fiber dryness cause
• that remove cotton from the face of the brittleness which results in fiber
module and deposit the cotton onto a
conveyor or into an airline for breakage, thereby shortening the
mechanical or pneumatic conveying to staple length
the gin.
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3. Cylinder Cleaner
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4. Extractor Feeder
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5. Gin Stand
• It is the heart of the ginning plant
• There are two types of ginning
❖ Saw and roller ginning
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Blow room (blowing process)
Objectives Opening
• Opening is the breaking up of the fiber mass into tufts
• Opening • It creates a new surface for cleaning
• Large and heavy enough foreign matters drop through the void created
• Cleaning by opening
• Opening stages
• Mixing/Blending • opening to flocks:
• in the blow room
• opening to fibers (individualization):
• in the card and OE spinning machine
• opening out
• volume of the flock is increased while the number of fibers
remains constant
• is needed for blending and aligning
• breaking apart
• two or more flocks are formed from one flock without changing
the specific density
• Breaking apart would suffice for cleaning
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Conti…
opening devices
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Degree of cleaning
Cleaning efficiency
• This is the percentage of the impurities removed • In mechanical cleaning loss of some good fibers is an
from the fiber mass unavoidable loss
• When considering this fiber loss, we can refer to the
cleaning efficiency (effective cleaning)
𝑊𝑖𝑛 − 𝑊𝑜 ∗ 100
Degree of cleaning (DC) =
𝑊𝑖𝑛 CE=
𝑊𝑇−𝑊𝐹 ∗100
𝑊𝑇
• Where
Win and Wo = respectively mass of the
impurities in the fiber at the input and output
to a machine
DC= degree of cleaning CE= cleaning efficiency
WT = mass of waste
WF= mass fiber in the waste
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Mixing/ blending
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Operational sequence in blow room
Bale opening
• It is a pre-opening process
• The machine should be able to
• Extract the material evenly from each bales
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Conti… 1. Cleaning cylinder
2. Cleaning grid
3. Airlock cylinder
coarse cleaning” (pre-cleaners) 4. Material feed
5. Material outlet
• These machines are preceded by the opening machines 6. Exhaust air to filter
• which create a large quantity of tufts, i.e. large surface 7. Waste removal
areas
• In Rieter B 12 UNI clean the material
• forced to pass over the grid five times, always presenting
new surface areas to it.
• also pass over a specially arranged perforated sheet fi ve
times
• The chamber behind this sheet is a low-pressure chamber.
• The air suction through this sheet provides very efficient
dedusting.
• The waste is collected inside the machine and fed to the
waste transport via an airlock cylinder.
• Intermittent suction and connection to continuous suction is
possible. The airlock prevents good fibers from being sucked
through the grid during waste removal.
UNIclean
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Mixing/blending machines
• It is made up of three parts
• storage section
• intermediate chamber
• delivery section
• Tufts are fed pneumatically and
simultaneously into eight chutes
• The conveyor belt feeds the stock through the
intermediate chamber to the spiked lattice.
• The material columns are thus diverted from The Trützschler Multiple Mixer
the vertical into the horizontal.
• This 90° deflection in the material flow
also produces a shift in the timing and
spatial distribution of the fiber packages Rieter UNI-mix
• different distances from the individual
chutes to the lattice
• chute 1: short distance; at chute 8:
long distance
• This creates mixing/blending
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1. Material feed
UNI blend 2. Dedusting and air
extraction
3. Air to filter unit
4. Dosage unit
• It is the an other way for blending in blow room 5. Component layers
6. Take-off unit
• In addition to 7. Inverter-controlled
❖ bale management and draw frame blending transport fan
8. Control cabinet
• As with the UNI-mix, several chutes are arranged
side by side
• but every chute has its own, separate feed
• at the bottom with an independent
metering device
• therefore, drops a precisely measured quantity
of material onto the collecting conveyer belt,
• which again forwards the accurately
metered material stock to the take-off unit
Dust removal(fine cleaner ) machines
One-piece chute without opening system Two-piece chute with opening system
• complex
• Simple
• Expensive
• Uncomplicated
• Delivers even and well-
• Economical opened batt
• Needs little maintenance • The transport air escapes
via
• Comply meeting the a perforated sheet and is
required performance carried away by a suction
duct.
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• As main cylinder speed increase • The standard card has only one licker-in
production increase • Multi licker in improve the opening/carding performance
• But fiber damage also increase • Speeds must be increased in the throughflow direction
• To solve this two choices • Or increase the velocity by increasing the diameter
❖ Increase working width (surface) • It include sharp-edged grid blades to scrap off the
❖ Use more licker ins impurities
❖ fitting of additional carding plates • For fine, long fibers mostly only one licker-in is used.
Q bags with
suction tube
Carding plates
Main cylinder
• The fibres are removed from the cylinder by the “doffer”. The cylinder and
doffer surfaces move in the same direction at the transfer zone.
• The doffer rotates at a considerably slower surface speed than does the
cylinder and consequently fibres accumulate on the doffer wire.
Card Clothing and Wire Point Disposition
Flexible clothing
ii. Rigid metallic clothing
• Can withstand high strain when m/c runs faster. Found in main
cylinder, taker-in and doffer.
Production =
Production – g/time
Delivery speed( m/min)
= efficiency
Draw frame
Objectives