Dress

PATTERN
№ 93
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STEP 1. GARMENT DESCRIPTION

It’s an A-line small volume calf-length lined dress without sleeves. Shoulder seam
is shortened from the shoulder point. Neckline is roundish. Back has a center back
seam. There are pockets in side seams.
Back features a center seam closure with 1 button and a loop buttonhole from a spa-
ghetti strap, closure is placed at the center back of back’s neckline.
Sizes 38-46 come without a center seam.
Sizes 48-56 feature a center seam.
To cut out front part without a center front seam you have to buy 1,50 cm width fab-
ric sheet for sizes 48-50 and 1,65 cm width fabric sheet for sizes 52-56.

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STEP 2. WEARING EASE OF A GARMENT,

SEAM ALLOWANCES AND THE MAIN
ALTERATIONS OF THE PATTERN
Wearing ease of a garment, cm
Measuring sector The amount of ease

Bust-line 0 + model’s widening

Waist-line 16,0 + model’s widening
Hips-line 5,0 + model’s widening

Garment Length Measurements, cm

Garment sector 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56
Finished back 138,0- 138,2- 138,4- 138,6- 138,8- 139,0- 139,2- 139,4- 139,6- 139,8-
length along the 146,2 154,4 154,6 154,8 155,0 155,2 155,4 155,6 155,8 156,0
center back

For personal taste, you may want to make alterations to adjust the length and
volume of the pieces before cutting.

Garment seam allowances, mm

Stitching seam allowances 10

Seam allowances to overcast details 7
Hem seam allowances of top 15
Hem seam allowances of lining 15

If you are not happy with our given seam allowances, please add your own while
cutting the pattern pieces.

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STEP 3. WHAT YOU WILL NEED

Tools and Equipment

Multipurpose sewing machine;

3 thread overlock machine;
You can purchase
An iron with or without steam; threads and needles
Regular presser foot; in our store.
Wooden iron;
Ironing desk or console table;
Hand needle for basting;
Machine needles №70-75 for the main fabric and lining;
Paper scissors;
Scissors for textile cutting.

Materials
Fabric suggestions:
We recommend to use for this garment well pliable dress or blouse fabrics, not
stretchy or little bit stretchy.
It can be silk, viscose, cotton, synthetic, semi-synthetic or blended fabrics.
As lining you can use fabrics that feature same properties (thickness and pli-
ability) as main fabric does. It can be natural, synthetic or blended fabric.

Threads:

For hand stitching we recommend using white cotton or polyester sewing

threads No40 or No45 - 1 spool.
For machine stitching on the main fabric, use polyester threads No50 - 1 spool
for the sewing machine.
Matching color reinforced threads for the overlocking machine №50 or №120
– 3 spools.
Numbering depends on the producer.

Garment accessories:

1. Buttons with the diameter of 10 mm – 1 pcs.

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Amount of Fabrics (in metres)

Size 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54 56

Main fabric, 2,55- 2,55- 2,65- 2,65- 2,70- 2,70- 2,70- 2,80- 2,85- 3,05-
wide 140 cm 2,70 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,00 3,05 3,15 3,25 3,35 3,45

Lining fabric, 1,55- 1,65- 1,70- 1,80- 1,85- 1,85- 1,85- 1,85- 1,90- 2,00-
wide 140 cm 1,70 1,95 2,10 2,15 2,15 2,20 2,25 2,30 2,35 2,35

Bias fusible tape 1,25- 1,30- 1,35- 1,40- 1,45- 1,45- 1,50- 1,55- 1,60- 1,65-
with reinforce- 1,30 1,35 1,40 1,45 1,50 1,55 1,55 1,60 1,65 1,70
ment stitches

Fusible on grain 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40 0,40
tape

Fabric consumption is given approximately taking into account 5 height diapasons.

ATTENTION! Given exact fabric consumption can be used only when pattern details are placed on
a fabric sheet close to each other. All pattern details should be arranged on an opened fabric sheet
strictly on grain in one direction, each pattern piece must be cut out only once.
Fabric may shrink so we recommend to make a test to find out fabric’s shrinkage ratio,
result must be added to the fabric consumption. If you plan to cut out details with extra seam al-
lowances then add 30 cm extra.

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STEP 4. GARMENT DETAILS AND CUTTING

Main fabric details
Pattern pieces layout of the main fabric

Sizes 38-46:

When cutting pattern

pieces of the main fabric,
place them on a single
fabric layer, with right
side facing down.

Sizes 48-56:

List of the main fabric pieces

1 Front – 1 detail with fold (in the sizes 38-46);

– 2 details (in the sizes 48-56);
2 Back – 2 details;
3 Pocket lining – 4 details.

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Lining details
Pattern pieces layout of the lining fabric

When cutting pattern

pieces of the lining fabric,
place them on a single
fabric layer, with right side
facing down.

List of the lining fabric pieces

4 Lining of front – 1 detail with fold;
5 Lining of back – 2 details.

Interfacing material layout

Attention! Details are shown from their wrong sides on the fusing plan map
for you to understand correct way to fuse details easier.

When cutting pattern

pieces for interfac-
ing, place them on
a single fabric layer,
with right side facing
down.

- Fusible on grain tape;

- Bias fusible tape with reinforcement stitches.

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Recommended pattern pieces for interfacing:

Fusible on grain tape:

- Pocket opening edge (detail 3) (apply to two paired details + 1,0 cm over the
control marks).

Bias fusible tape with reinforcement stitches:

- Armhole edge (detail 1, detail 2);
- Neckline edge (detail 1, detail 2).

STEP 5. SEWING INSTRUCTIONS

Preliminary works before tailoring

How to cut out and assemble a sample garment.
1. Before you start cutting out main fabric, we recommend you to sew a sample
garment from a fabric with same properties, for example a cotton sheeting.
2. Steam fabric for the sample garment. Let it cool down and dry out.
3. Cut out details of front and back for the sample garment
4. Mark out placements of waistline and hips.
5. Apply bias-cut fusible tapes to neckline and armhole edges

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6. Assemble the sample garment.

How to fit the sample garment.

1. Ask your client to wear the sample garment.
2. Check the garment’s balance. Placement of a shoulder seam must be at the
cap’s center. Center front, center back and side seams must be perpendicular
to floor.
3. Pay attention to the following points:
- size of the garment in the areas of bust, waist and hips;
- placements of pockets;
- length of the garment;
- how low the neckline and armholes are;
- length of the vent on the back.
4. Make changes in accordance to your client’s body type. Change the gar-
ment’s both sides symmetrically otherwise it may get out of alignment and get
too narrowed. We recommend to change the garment’s size in several steps.
5. Change pattern pieces in accordance to the changes you’ve made to the gar-
ment.
Advice: before you cut out main fabric, we recommend you to read this sewing
instruction to sew the assemblage order, you can change it.
Make notes on pattern pieces or in the instruction, that will help you to keep
the most important information.

Cutting out.
1. Steam main fabric.
2. Place pattern pieces on the fabric, remember about the grain line’s direction.
Note: layout plan doesn’t include extra seam allowances.
Note: if you fabric is printed you have to take it into consideration when plac-
ing pattern pieces on main fabric. Given layout plan is suitable for one-colored
fabrics or printed fabrics, when you don’t need to match its print. Direction and
size of print increase fabric consumption. Change the layout plan as your main
fabric type requires.
3. Cut out main fabric.
We recommend to cut out the garment’s details with extra seam allowances to
do the first fitting. Add 1-2 cm to side and armhole edges, add 3 cm to bottom
edges of the bodice of front and back, add 3-4 cm to the garment’s hem edge.
Extra seam allowances help to change the garment’s size and length.

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4. Mark out the waistline with basting stitches. Mark out control marks. Cut
notches, cut no more than 0,2-0,3 cm.
5. Test your main fabric, apply fusible tapes to a piece of main fabric and check
if it’s visible on the right face. It must be invisible.
6. Fuse details in accordance to the fusing plan. Fuse with steam mode off.

Preliminary works before tailoring.

1. Check your fabric:
- if holes are left after a needle;
- choose a suitable tracing tool (piece of chalk, soap or invisible marker pen).
It must draw easily, remain on fabric during the sewing process, easily getting
removed after a detail is assembled.
2. Choose a suitable temperature for wet-heat pressing.
3. Set your sewing equipment. When stitching straight or serging an edge,
seams must not be tightened or getting stretched.
Set: thread tension, foot pressure, stitch length.

Assemble of the garment to do the first fitting.

1. Baste the garment’s details.
2. Check how the garment from main fabric fits your client, check the garment’s
size.
3. Make changes if needed. Change the garment’s both sides symmetrically
otherwise it may get out of alignment and get too narrowed. We recommend
to change the garment’s size in several steps.
4. Change pattern pieces.
5. Rip and remove basting stitches.
6. Steam the garment’s details.
7. Shape the details using pattern pieces (change their size or cut off extra seam
allowances). Change placements of control marks if needed.
Advice. During the sewing process you may need paper pattern pieces at any
time, so don’t put them far away. You can hang them on a hook or on a trousers
hanger.

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Sewing terms:

• Stitch – join together similar details. Place the pieces together with the right
sides facing each other. Even the edges. And join them by machine stitching
according to the given seam allowances measurements.

• Attach or sew (stitch) on – attach or sew on details that differ in size, using a
machine stitch.

• Finishing edges with facing – joining two details together, which are later
turned inside out. The seam allowances are remaining inside, whereas the seam
runs along the edge of the joined pieces.

• Baste – temporary join details, using hand baste stitching. Stitch length - 0,5
or 1 cm.

• Baste on – temporary attach small detail to the main one, using baste stitching.

• Reinforcing basting stitch – temporary reinforces folded seam allowance with

hand stitches.

• Press flat – reduce seam or fold thickness by applying pressure with hot iron.

• Press open – use the tip of the iron to press the seam allowance open and
press it well so each seam allowance is on the two sides of the seam.
• Press to shrink – is to reduce excess fullness on the determined area using the
steam iron to give it shape.

• Wet-heat processing means ironing with steam garment itself or only it’s one
certain area.

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Tailoring

Assemblage of back

1. Reinforce neckline and armhole edges of front and back.

2. Serge center edges of back and

lining of back. Serge from the right
side of the details.

3. Add details of back together,

matching their right sides. Align
center edges, pin or baste them.
Stitch the edges to the control
marks of the vent’s end.

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4. Press the seam, iron out seam

allowances till the vent.
Outlines of pressed seam allowances
can be visible on the right face of the
garment, to avoid such problem you
can place a carton paper under allow-
ances when pressing them.

Assemblage of a spaghetti strap to make a loop buttonhole

1. Cut out a strap on bias, its width is 2 cm, length is 5 cm.

2. Fold the strap in half along its length-
wise edges.
Overcast the strap with 0, 3 cm seam
width, leave long threads at both ends of
the seam.

3. Thread a big eye needle with long

threads.

Pass the needle to the strap’s inside. Turn the strap right side out.
4. Bring the strap into a shape of a loop,
its diameter is equal to a button’s diam-
eter.

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5. Attach the loop to the control mark

on the back’s left side. Fix the loop to
allowances.

6. Stitch center back edges of the lining of back. Iron out seam allowances till
the vent.
7. Add back and lining of back togeth-
er, matching their right sides. Align
edges of the vent.
Overcast edges of the vent of the
back’s left side.

Overcast edges of the vent of the

back’s right side.

9. Cut ends of the loop.

10. Press out allowances to the lining.

Understitch allowances to the lining
along the vent’s edges.

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11. Press the vent.

Assemblage of the center front seam for sizes 48-56

1st method. Seam allowances are ironed out.

1. Serge center front edges of front. Serge from the detail’s right face.
2. Add details of front together, matching their right sides. Align the center
edges, pin or baste them, matching control marks.
3. Stitch the edges.
4. Press the seam, iron out seam allowances.

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2nd method. Seam allowances are pressed out to one side.

1. Add details of front together, matching their right sides. Align the edges, pin
or baste them, matching control marks.
2. Stitch the edges.
3. Serge seam allowances. Serge from the side of the left front detail.
4. Press the seam, press out seam allowances to the right front part.

Assemblage of shoulder seams and neckline

1. Add front and back together,
matching their right sides. Align
shoulder edges, pin or baste them.
Stitch the edges.
Stitch once more to reinforce the
seam.

2. Press the seam, iron out seam

allowances.

3. Add linings of front and back to-

gether, matching their right sides.
Stitch shoulder edges.
Press the seam, iron out seam allow-
ances.

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4. Attach the lining to the garment right sides together. Align edges of neck-
lines. Pin or baste the edges, matching seams.
Fold the vent’s allowances to the lining.
5. Overcast edges of the neckline
with 0, 7 cm seam width.

6. Cut out seam allowances of shoulder edges.

Trim allowance of the lining to 0, 5 cm.
Clip allowances of curved edges, clip no more than 0,2-0,3 cm away from stitch-
es.
7. Fold the lining to the garment. Forward seam allowances to the lining.
Understitch allowances to the lining, stopn stitching 3 cm away from the vent’s
edge.

8. Press the neckline’s edge.

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Assemblage of armholes
1. Match wrong sides of the garment and
its lining, fix shoulder edges with pins.

Advice. Fix shoulder edges from the inside with several machine stitches. Check
that shoulder seams do match from the right side.
2. Turn the back’s armhole wrong side out
by pulling shoulder seams.
Align armhole edges of the lining and the
garment.
Pin or baste the edges from shoulder seam
to side edges.
Overcast the edges with 0, 7 cm seam
width.

3. Cut allowance of the lining to 0,5 cm.

Clip allowances of the armhole, clip no more than 0,2-0,3 cm away from the
seam.
Press.

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4. Turn the garment right side out.

5. Turn the front’s armhole wrong side

out by pulling shoulder seams.
Align armhole edges of the lining and
the garment.
Pin or baste the edges from shoulder
seam to side edges.
Overcast the edges with 0, 7 cm seam
width.

6. Cut allowance of the lining to 0,5 cm.

Clip allowances of the armhole, clip no more than 0,2-0,3 cm away from the
seam. Press.
7. Turn the garment right side out.

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8. Forward the garment and its lining

to the opposite sides from each other.
Fold armhole allowances to the lining.
Understitch allowances to the lining,
stitch from a side seam towards a
shoulder seam as close to it as possi-
ble.

9. Press armhole edge.

Assemblage of side pockets

1. Front pocket lining – 2 details.

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2. Attach the pocket lining (its edges

already have been reinforced with
fusible tapes) to the front right sides
together.
Match control signs of the pocket
opening and side edges.
Sew on the lining with 0, 8 cm seam
width.

3. Attach the pocket lining (its edges are not reinforced) to the back right sides
together.
Match control marks of the pocket opening and side edges of the details.
Sew on the lining with 0, 8 cm seam width.
4. Serge stitched seam allowances of the details.

Front Back

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5. Fold lining of front away. Fold seam

allowances to the lining.
Understitch seam allowances to the
lining, stitch 0, 1 cm away from the
seam.

6. Press edge of the pocket opening

of front.

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7. Press out seam allowances of back to

the lining.

8. Add front and back together, matching their right sides.

Match pocket openings and pin them.

9. Align side edges of the garment with side edges of the lining. Align edges of
the lining. Pin or baste the edges, matching armhole seams and control marks.
Stitch side edges of the lining and the garment, and also stitch edges of the lin-
ing details at the same time. Stitching line is shown on the pattern piece of the
pocket lining. Stitch as shown on the pattern piece.

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10. Serge side edges of the lining and the pocket with a single seam. Serge from
the back’s side.

Armhole

11. Press side seams. Press out allow-

ances to the front.

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12. Fix the lining from the inside to

the side seams.

How to hem the garment and the lining

1. Fold hem allowance of the garment
for 0, 7 cm. Baste the folded edge.
2. Press the folded edge.
3. Fold it once more for 0, 7 cm. Pin or
baste the folded hem allowance.
4. Stitch the folded hem edge.

5. Remove basting stitches.

6. Press the hemline.
7. Hem the lining the same way as described above.

Finishing works
1. Sew on a button.
2. Check out the garment.
3. Do the final wet-heat pressing.
Dress is ready.
You should not be lazy while tailoring. Iron all
parts you are working on. Tailoring will be easier
and garment will look better.

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