Repair Manual

MZ 125 SXJSM

Reproduced for

---"l-

MOTORRAO- UNO ZWEIRAOWERK GMBH

8080116ENG

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 Foreword

This repair manual explains the most important work procedures for the main components of the MZ
125 SXlSM. It is primarily oriented toward MZ service stations with qualified, trained personnel and
individuals with a technical understanding of the mechanical concepts and processes. All indications
and descriptions refer to a motorcycle as delivered by the factory. Work on accessories and their
mounting are not covered here. Repairs and maintenance work should only be performed with
sufficient knowledge and experience and not based on this manual alone.

We are not liable for damages due to:

unauthorized technical modifications
installation of parts which are not original replacement parts or accessories
installation of accessories not intended for the specific model
improper repair work on MZ vehicles!

This repair manual contains various hazard warnings, important information and tips.
Please pay careful attention to this information to eliminate the risk of injury during maintenance and
repair work. Incorrect maintenance or repairs can endanger life and health or damage the vehicle.
Please also note that the hazard warnings, important information and tips are not exhaustive. It would
be impossible to warn against all possible hazards and consequences which could result from failure
to follow these instructions.
We are constantly working on the further development of our vehicles. For this reason, we reserve
the rightto make changes in the interests of technical progress (equipment, shape, technology, etc.).
This repair manual is based on the most recent information available at the time of publishing. There-
fore, no claims may be derived from the information, figures and descriptions in this repair manual.
-~

The illustrations also do not necessarily perfectly depict the vehicle to be repaired.
This repair manual is protected by copyright. Reprinting, reproduction or
translation, even of excerpts, is not permitted without approval by MZ. MZ Motorrad- und Zweirad-
werk GmbH expressly retains all rights granted under copyright law.

© 2002 Motorrad- und Zweiradwerk GmbH

PF 1170, Alte Marienberger Straf),e 30 - 35

D-09401 Zschopau-Hohndorf, Germany
Technical Customer Service

Telephone: +49372549-0
Fax: +493725491-18
e-mail: muz@muz.de
Internet: http://www.muz.de

MZ 125 SXlSM Repair Manual 05/02

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 05/02 MZ 125 SXlSM Repair Manual

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 Table of Contents

Table of Contents

1 Safety Regulations and Information 5

1.1 Important Information .. 5
1.2 Safety Regulations 6
1.3 Important Work Information.. .. 6
1.4 Important Maintenance Instructions . 6
15 Identification .. .. 7

2 Data Sheets 9
2.1 Technical Data 9
2.2 Inspection .. 13
2.3 Lubrication Points 15
2.4 Special Tools..... .. 16
2.5 Tightening torques.......... . 18
2.5.1 Chassis 18
2.5.2 Engine . 20

3 Chassis 23
3.1 Seat .. 23
3.2 Locking Hoop .. .. 24
3.3 Side Panelling .. 24
3.4 Fuel Tank .. 25
3.4.1 Filter Valve .. 26
3.4.2 Tank Cap.............. .. 27
3.4.3 Fuel Filter 27
3.5 Lighting/Signal System. .. 28
3.5.1 Headlight .. 28
3.5.2 Tum Indicator Lights..................................... .. 30
3.5.3 Headlight Casing 31
3.5.4 Adjusting the Headlight... .. 32
3.5.5 Tail Ligh!.......................... .. 32
3.5.6 Ignition Steering Lock................. .. 33
3.6 Instruments........... . 34
3.6.1 Speedometer and Lighting 34
3.6.2 Indication Lights .. 34
3.6.3 Reset Button.......... .. 35
3.6.4 Instrument Mount.... .. 35
3.7 Ignition Lock 36
3.8 Front Wheel Mud Guard 37
3.9 Rear Wheel Mud Guard 38
3.9.1 Rear Wheel Mud Guard .. 38
3.9.2 Rear Reflector 38
3.9.3 Shock Absorber Protector 38
3.10 Handlebar 39
3.10.1 Mirror 39
3.10.2 Bowden cables 39
3.10.3 Throttle Twist Grip 40
3.10.4 Rubber Grips 40
3.10.5 Handlebar 41
3.10.6 Swingarm 42
3.10.7 Hand Brake Lever 42
3.10.8 Front Brake Light Switch 43
3.10.9 Clutch Lever 43
3.10.10 Switch/Mount 44
3.10.11 Starting Carburettor Lever 44

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 Table of Contents

3.11 Air Filter .. .45

3.12 Shock Absorber .. .46
3.13 Foot Rests .. ..48
3.13.1 Rear Foot Rest .48
3.13.2 Front Foot Rest... .48
3.14 Side Stand........ .. ..49
3.14.1 Side Stand Switch 49
3.14.2 Side Stand .. 50
3.15 Intake Muffler 51
3.16 Muffler.............................................. .. 52
3.16.1 Exhaust Mount Plate... .. 53
3.16.2 Manifold .. 54
3.17 Cooiing System...... .. 55
3.17.1 Cooiant 55
3.17.2 Radiator Cap 56
3.17.3 Radiator Hoses .. 56
3.17.4 Radiator.......... .. 57
3.17.5 Thermostat. 58
3.18 Telescopic Fork 60
3.18.1 Fork Spars 61
3.18.2 Dismantling the Telescopic Fork 62
3.18.3 Fork Bridges.. .. 65
3.18.4 Steering Bearing .. 66
3.19 Swing Fork 69

4 Brakes and Wheels 71

4.1 Brakes Front 71
4.1.1 Front Wheel Brake Adjustment... 72
4.1.2 Brake Fluid 73
4.1.3 Bleeding the Brake System .75
4.1.4 Main Brake Cyiinder . '" to
4.1.5 Inspection Window 7,7
4.1.6 Replacing the Seal SeL 77
4.1.7 Entire Brake Caliper 78
4.1.8 Brake Pads 79
4.1.9 Brake Caliper/Components 80
4.1.10 Brake Hose 81
4.2 Front Wheel............................................. . 82
4.2.1 Replacing the Front Wheel 83
4.2.2 Front Brake Disc 85
4.2.3 Wheel Bearing 86
4.2.4 Speedometer Drive 87
4.3 Rear Brake 88
4.3.1 Brake Fluid 89
4.3.2 Bleeding the Brake System 91
4.3.3 Storage Tank 92
4.3.4 Hose 92
4.3.5 Brake Hose 93
4.3.6 Adhesive Pads 94
4.3.7 Brake Caliper 94
4.3.8 Brake Caliper/Components 95
4.3.9 Brake Pads 96
4.3.10 Brake Lever 97
4.3.11 Rear Brake Light Switch 99
4.3.12 Main Brake Cylinder 100
4.3.13 Seal Set 100
4.4 Rear Wheel 101
4.4.1 Replacing the Rear WheeL 102
4.4.2 Chain Plate and Dog 104
4.4.3 Wheel Bearing 105

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 Table of Contents

4.4.4 Brake Disc 106

4.5 Chain . 107
4.5.1 Chain Maintenance 107
4.5.2 Adjusting the Chain Siack. . 107
4.5.3 Chain Se!........................ . 108
45.4 Replacing the Chain Slider 109
4.6 Tyres 110
4.7 Spoke Fitting 111
4.7.1 General Procedure. . . 111
4.7.2 Spoke Fitting Values for SX 111
4.7.3 Spoke Fitting Values for SM 112

5 Electrical Installation 113

5.1 General Principles 113
5.2 Fuses.................... . 113
5.3 Battery 114
5.3.1 Checking the Electrolyte Level 114
5.3.2 Replacing the Battery 115
5.3.3 Charging the Battery . 116
5.4 Ignition 117
5.4.1 Block Circuit Diagrams .117
5.4.2 Spark Plug............................ . 118
5.4.3 Spark Plug Connector with Ignition Cable 119
5.4.4 Ignition Coil. 120
5.4.5 Ignition Box........................... . 122
5.4.6 Ignition Box Inspection . 123
5.4.7 Conversion to the 80 km/h Varian!................ . 124
5.4.8 Regulator/Rectifier............ .. 125
5.5 Alternator . 127
5.5.1 Stator. . 127
5.5.2 Rotor.......... . 128
5.6 Flasher Relay 130
5.7 Starter Relay......................... . 130
5.8 Shut-off Relay 131
5.9 Thermal Switch 132
5.10 Horn 133
5.11 Starter . 134
5.12 Fan 135
5.13 Diodes . 136
5.13.1 Position and function........ . 136
5.13.2 Test Diodes 136

6 Engine 137
6.1 General Information 137
6.2 Inspection.... . 137
6.2.1 Compression Pressure 137
6.2.2 Oil Level .. . 138
6.2.3 Oil Change 138
6.2.4 Oil Filter 140
6.2.5 Oil Return Plug . 141
6.2.6 Oil Pressure Sensor 141
6.2.7 Checking the Oil Pressure 142
6.3 Engine Removal.......................... . 142
6.4 Clutch . 144
6.4.1 Adjustment 144
6.4.2 Clutch Activation Lever. 145
6.4.3 Removing the Clutch 146

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 I.J.J...r j Table of Contents

6.4.4 Installation 149

6.5 Gearshift....... . 150
6.5.1 Selector Shaft 150
6.5.2 Free 'M1eel. .. . 151
6.6 Pumps 152
6.6.1 Oil Pump........... . 152
6.6.2 Water Pump...... . 153
6.6.3 Oil Pressure Regulator.. . 154
6.7 Cylinder Head 155
6.7.1 Removal 155
6.7.2 Valve Train 158
6.7.3 Timing Chain, Tension and Guide Rails 158
6.7.4 Chain 'M1eel, Camshaft......................................... . 160
6.7.5 Installation 161
6.8 Valves.... . 163
6.8.1 Valve Seat. .. . 165
6.8.2 Adjusting Valve Clearance 169
6.9 Cylinders 171
6.9.1 Removal......................................... . 171
6.9.2 Cylinder Dimensions.... . 172
6.9.3 Piston................. . 172
6.9.4 Piston Rings 174
6.9.5 Installation.......... . 175
6.9.6 Intake Manifold 176
6.10 Transmission 177
6.10.1 Removal 177
6.10.2 Inspection . 179
6.10.3 Crankshaft and Balance Shaft 181
6.10.4 Installation 182
6.11 Engine Installation and Adjustment 183
6.12 Carburettor...... . 188
6.12.1 Settings 188
6.12.2 Removal 190
6.12.3 Dismantling and Inspecting 191
6.12.4 Installation 193

7 Index 197

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 !..Jjf1 Safety Regulations and Information

1 Safety Regulations and Information

1.1 Important Information

Important information in this manual is designated as follows:

DANGER!
Immediate danger!
Failure to heed the warning may result in serious injury or death.

Attention!
Dangerous situation!
Failure to heed the warning may result in injuries or property damage.

Note:
Useful supplemental information or user tips.

Environment!
Possible dangers for the environment and information on how to prevent them .

.ItiZl Tightening torque:

<ft Special tightening torques to be observed.

Every safety item explains: - which danger exists,

- what can happen,
- what you can do to prevent injuries.

Warning of hazards when handling Warning against corrosive liquids

batteries

A
#c!,,':
Warning against hazardous voltage Warning about flammable materials and
substances

Warnings about the risk of crushing inju- Warning about hot surfaces
ries caused by the driving chain

Danger of crushing A Warning about explosive substances

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 u.:.tL1 Safety Regulations and Information

1.2 Safety Regulations

Attention!
Installation errors can endanger the health or even the life of the vehicle operator and
other persons in traffic.
For this reason, please observe all safety regulations and information when
performing work.

Work safely and with your full attention! Follow the procedures described in the manual!
Only operate engines in a well ventilated work area and for no longer than necessary (health and environment!
Use only original replacement parts and accessories from MZ Motorrad- und Zweiradwerk GmbH!
Dispose of brake fluid, fuel remains and oily rags according to the regulations!
Install the parts using the specified tightening torques!
When working on the vehicle, secure it against tipping or rolling away!
Observe the BGR 157 safety rules of the Professional Association of Vehicle Maintenance, Workshop Ordinance
ZH1/525 and the general regulations as per BGV A1.

1.3 Important Work Information

Always de-energize the electrical installation (disconnect the batteries and/or remove the fuses) before starting
any repair on this installation.
• Label all removed parts as necessary in the order in which they were moved. This helps ensure that the parts
are returned to their original locations.
• When working on the vehicle, protect painted surfaces and seats with a clean cloth or other suitable cover.
• Carefully inspect all parts before removal to determine the purpose of the repair.
Use special tools when specified.
When removing multiple screws or nuts, start with the middle or largest screw.
Tighten the screws in crosswise alternation in two or more steps.

1.4 lmpor+.ant Maintenance Instructions

The dealer is responsible for performing the following work in coordination with the vehicle owner to guarantee the
vehicle's operating safety and roadworthiness whenever inspections are made and/or during any unscheduled visit
to a workshop.

• Replace the brake fluid and the gaskets of the brake cylinders and the brake calipers every 2 years and after
every repair performed on the brake systems.
Replace the coolant every two years.
Replace the engine oil at the mandatory inspections or at least once per year.
Replace the brake hoses in case of damage or cracking or every 4 years.
Replace rubber components, fuel and vent hoses in case of damage or cracking or every 4 years.
Replace cooling system hoses in case of damage or cracking.

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 Safety Regulations and Information

1.5 Identification

Fig.1: Location of the engine number (1) Fig.2: Location of the vehicle identification number (2)

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 Notes

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 u.:JL1 Technical Data

2 Data Sheets

2.1 Technical Data

k(/
i i H',i i'·.· ·.· · · • . .,..ii:''.[ .............1MZ:1l'-b::i'" ...HHe . . .:. 1"''''\'·.
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Overall length 2185 mm 2010 mm

Overall width with/without mirror/ 960/770 mm 9601770 mm
with hand protection 860 mm 860mm
\Mdth of handlebars 770mm 770mm
Height withlwithout mirror 1340/1220 mm 1280/1160 mm
Seat height 860mm 830mm
'Mleel base 1440 ± 15 mm 1440 ± 15 mm
Caster 107 mm 73mm
Steering angle 63S 64.5 0
Steering angle left/right 40 0 each 40 0 each
Turning circle 3.5 m 3.5m
Ground clearance with max. permissible load 200/250 mm 170/220 mm
with/without base protection
Unladen weight (ready to ride) 127.5 kg 129.5 kg
Unladen front axle load 58.5 kg 60 kg
Unladen rear axle load 69 kg 69.5
Total weight permitted 320 kg 320 kg

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Engine type MZ 125
Method of operation / control 4-stroke ignition engine, DOHC, 4 valves operated with bucket tappets
Number of cylinders 1, vertical, inclined 100 forward
Cylinder capacity 124 cm 3
Piston stroke 44.0 mm
Hole 60.0 mm
Output at rpm 11 kW/9000 rpm
Cooling method/operating pressure Liquid cooling, 1.4 bar
Nominal set value of the engine temperature Thermostat opening beginning 80 0 - 84 °C
regulator
Maximum torque at rpm 11.7 Nm /8500 rpm
Compression ratio 11.2±1 :1
Camshafts

· Drive control chain 92 RH 2010 /122 chain links

· External diameter of the camshaft at the

bearing
19.967 -19.980 mm

· bearing
Clearance between the bearing neck and
cap
0.020 - 0.040 mm

Tappet clearance

· Intake 0.09 - 0.11 mm

· Exhaust 0.12 - 0.14 mm

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 Technical Data

,Engine :7 ,. ee-
.•....
"7
........ ~.!, :7
, .
. .• • ii!'.'!'·> .····.n'
Bucket tappet

· Bucket tappet outside diameter 24.967 - 24.980 mm

· Bucket diameter in cylinder head 25.000 - 25.021 mm

· Clearance
Lubrication
0,020 - 0.040 mm
wet sump lubrication
Clutch wet multi-plate clutch
Air Filter o 900 dry paper filter
Manufacturer FILTRAK

I..;...."J.... ,
'T'7" ;;7i~i-~.
";';; ······ii.!" ,'";;. 1':::ili.i;li;",iim'liiii'iniiii,', i .•,. . . . . . . . ; ················,,·,···'
,.
··'·:i·:',;!·:,,·
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Manufacturer, identification, type MIKUNI VM24
Main jet 100
Needle jet 0-0
Idling jet 15
Needle adjustment 5L10/4 th notch from top
Idle air adjusting screw 1 - 2.5 turn out
Idling speed 1800+100 rpm
Fuel level 32 mm beyond the carburetor centre
Float height 20+ 1 mm from sealing surface of the carburetor casing
Exhaust gas setting max. 4.5Vol% CO

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Number of gears 6
Idling speed indicator pilot lamp tiN"
Lubrication wet sump drip lubrication
Type of transmission spur pinion-change (wheel) gear with dog-type lock shift
Operating system left foot centrols
Primary step-down gear system spur gears
Secendary step-down gear system Chain 1/2" x 5/16", 134 links Chain 1/2" x 5/16", 132 links

Ratios Variant MZ 125 8X Variant MZ 125 8M

Primary ratio 24/91 (1;3,792)
Seccndary ratio 16/52 (1 :3,25) 16/49 (1:3,063)
1st gear 12/35 1:35,942 1:33,868
2nd gear 16/30 1:23,105 1:21,772
3rd gear 17/24 1:17,397 1:16,393
4th gear 21/24 1:14,083 1:13,271
5th gear 23/22 1:11,787 1:11,107
6th gear 22/18 1:10,082 1:9,501

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 Technical Data

Iii.'
. i,.• '.·.· · · · · . ·
i.··":···.,,··•. •i.•·:' . ,............;. : .·.·:i'::?;·ii.::.:ni:i·i·:.··!,•• i!.;i: ••·q!:.i:.iii••,..:::i••::••. . . . . . . • ;.··::;'..:.i.
.....
Type of frame tubular frame
Front suspension

· Design Telescopic fork

· Spring travel 220 mm

Rear suspension

· Design long swinging fork

· Spring travel/adjustment 220 mm/adjustable spring base

Steering bearing Deep groove ball bearing
Clutch lever and throttle twist grip

· Play in the clutch lever 3 - 5 mm at the end of the clutch

· Play in throttle Bowden cable 2 - 3 mm at the twist grip flange

Wheels - spoked wheels Variant MZ 125 8X Variant MZ 125 8M

Front tire 90/90 - 21 110170-17

Tire pressure 190 kPa/1,9 bar/28 psi 180 kPal1,8 bar/26 psi
Rim size 1.85x21 3.00 x 17
Rim wobble limit vertical 0,5mm 0,5mm
side 0,5mm 0,5mm
Rear tire 120/80 - 18 130170-17
TIre pressure (value at perm. axle load) 200 (250) kPa/2 (2,5) bar/29 (36) psi 230 (260) kPal2,3 (2,6) bar/33 (66)
psi
Rim size 2.50 x 18 3.50 x 17
Rim wobble limit vertical 0,5mm 0,5mm
side 0,5mm 0,5mm
Front wheel brake

· Design hydraulic single-disc brake with a two-piston floating caliper

and manually operated cylinder
I
· Outside diameter x plate thickness 280x4mm

· Thickness of the brake pad 5,Omm

· Wear limit <2,Omm

· Main brake cylinder inside diameter 11 mm

· Brake caliper cylinder inside diameter 2x25,4 mm

· Brake fluid
Rear wheel brake
DOT 4

· Design hydraulic single-disc brake with a two-piston floating caliper

and manually operated cylinder

· Outside diameter x plate thickness 220x4mm

· Thickness of the brake pad (wear limit) 5,Omm

· Wear limit <2,Omm

· Main brake cylinder inside diameter 13mm

· Brake caliper cylinder inside diameter 2 x 25,4 mm

· Brake fluid
Brake level and brake pedal
DOT 4

· Play in brake lever 2 - 5 mm at the end of the brake lever

· Position of brake pedal 25 mm under the footrest rubber surface

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 !.J,J.L 1 Technical Data

. .,
,.,. · .1';11·i!,I;"Cj','"il 11;11,1'"
,... ,.,.
"
. ......• .,•.........
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Nominal voltage 12V
Ignition oontract-free capacitor ignition (CDI)
Ignition unit rpm limitation above 10,500 rpm

· Resistance of the ignition ooil 324 ± 32 Ohm at 23°C

· Ignition unit I manufacturer 16.754. 126/1skra, AET

MZ 125 SX: 16.754.134/Iskra, AET (80 km/h variant)
MZ 125 SM: 16.754.127I1skra, AET (80 km/h variant)
Ignition coil:

· Model/manufacturer 16.725.102/Iskra, AET

· Minimum sparking distance 6mm

· Resistance of the primary coil 0,790 ± 15% at 20°C

· Resistance of the seoondary coil 7,6 kO ± 20% at 20°C

Ignition time point depends on rpm, stationary 6°, dynamically up to 34 ± 2° before the
top dead centre (TDC)
80 km/h variant:
• Riding speed less than 2 km/h ignition event at 6,700 rpm

· Riding speed more than 2 km/h and less

than 80 kmlh
rpm limitation above 10,500 rpm

· Riding speed more than 80 km/h ignition events to reduce performance

Spark plug, air gap NGK CR8E, 0,7 mm
Alternator alternating current generator 180 Wat 5000 rpm
Battery 12V/9 Ah
High and low beam bulb H4 12V-60/55W
Parking light 12V-5W
Direction indicators 12V-10W
Taillight 12V-21/5W
Speedometer illumination 12V-2W
Indication lights 12V-1,2W
Main fuse (light blue) 15A
Indicator fuse (violet) 3,OA
Fan fuse (brown)

..
•...•.,
Fuel type
••
•..
,.' ,~
7,5A

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Super unleaded, min. ROZ 95

Fuel volume 12,51
Fuel reserve 3,61
Engine oil 1.2 I SAE 15W-50 API SG/SH
1.2 I SAE 15W-40 API SG/SH
Total ooolant volume 900-50 cm 3
Telesoopic fork volume per spar 445 cm 3
Oil type Fork oil SAE 7,5 - 10W
Shock absorber Hydro-pneumatic
(no maintenance can be performed by a oontraet workshop)

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 u:.t..C 1 Inspection

Maximum speed 110 km/h or 80 km/h (reduced performance version)

Fuel consumption 3.21/100km
Method of determination Point-to-point fuel consumption

2.2 Inspection

Check/adjust clutch clearance 144 • • •

Check/adjust valve clearance 169 • • •
Coolant
level/density/anti-freeze compound
• • • Replacing

Check oil level/add oil 138 after every 1,000 km

Oil change, clean the coarse filter • • •

Tighten the exhaust pipe attachment to the
cylinder
• • •
Check the engine mountings. • • •
Clean the carburettor 192 • • •
Check the carburettor settings • • •
Measure the exhaust fume values annually

Check the brake fluid level 73,89 before every ride

Change the brake fluid •

Check the thickness of the brake linings every 2,000 km

Grease the ball joint between the shock

absorber and the swingarm
• •
Check and service the telescopic fork • •
Change the fork oil •
Check the air pressure and condition of the before every ride
tires

Check the wheel rim eccentricity • •

Check the clearance on the wheel bearings • •
Check the damping of the rear wheel drive • •
Clean the fuel filter in the fuel cock • • •
Clean the air filter 45 every 6,000 km (or more often, depending on riding condi-
tions)

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 [kif j Inspection

Replace the air filter every 12,000 km (or more often, depending on riding condi-
tions)

Empty the condensate collector under the

intake
• •
Check that all bolts, screws and hose ciips are
tight
• • •
Check the chain slack and wheel tracking 107 every 500 km (or more often, depending on riding condi-
tions)

Clean and lubricate the chain every 500 km (or more often, depending on riding condi-
tions)

Lubricate the hand lever and throttle twist grip 1 x year (or more often, depending on riding conditions)

Check and lubricate the bowden cables 39 1 x year (or more often, depending on riding conditions)

Lubricate speedometer shaft 1 x year (or more often, depending on riding conditions)

Clean and lubricate all sliding surfaces and

bearings
• •
Check the side stand switch • • •

Check the lighting and signaling systems before every ride

Check the headlight adjustment

(also after every adjustment of the spring
32 • • •
preload of the shock absorber)

Check all accessible contacts, treat with con-

tact spray
• •
Spark plugs: check, c1eanlreplace 118 • • •
Check the air gap of the pick-up sensor 129 •
Check the electrolyte level in the battery and 114 every 6 weeks
the cable terminals

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 !.J:.tX1 Lubrication Points

2.3 Lubrication Points

6 13 4 5 6 13 7 8 9 10 11 12

1 Clutch Lever Oil

2 Bowden cables Oil

3 Steering bearing roller bearing grease

4 Side stand bearing roller bearing grease

5 Chain chain spray for a-ring chains

6 VVheel Bearing roller bearing grease

7 Ball joint on the shock-absorbing leg, bottom Grease or spray (MoS2 )

8 Brake pedal roller bearing grease

9 Throttle twist grip roller bearing grease

10 Hand brake lever roller bearing grease I oil

11 Speedometer drive Oil

12 Speedometer drive in the front wheel roller bearing grease

13 Brake caliper sliding pin grease MoS2

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 Special Tools

2.4 Special Tools

The term "special tool" is abbreviated in the text as "ST".

8999200000 Locking bolt,

Crankshaft

~-------E-

2 8999201000 Sleeve for

Valve shaft seal

3 8999202000 Piston installation plate

4 8999203000 Pick-up
adjusting tool

5 8999204000 Locking tool

Clutch

6 8999205000 Alternator rotor

removal tool

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 Special Tools

7 8999206000 Camshaft locking tool

8 8999207000 Casing halves

separator tool

9 8999208000 Brace for

index lever

10 8999209000 Installation sleeve

for left crankshaft ~ '////

- - - - - '-

~ y////

11 8999210000 Adapter for

valve spring lifter

----

12 8999212000 Installation sleeve

for right crankshaft

13 3937001000 Spark plug spanner

[b_ _[Q

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 I.J.JL 1 Tightening torques

2.5 Tightening torques

Tighten all screws and nuts after 1000 km (2 months), then every 6000 km.
The nuts, screws and bolts listed in the following table are important safety parts. They should be tightened
with the specified torque as necessary, using a torque spanner.
Micro encapsulated screws reused after removal must be secured using Loctite 243.

2.5.1 Chassis

..... ,..~.
·f·i'iY.'<,.,>.""
'........
.•, ,:'Y'Y,
...•..
......Y
, 'j.Y
,
·k.;..:..··.··'."<,·
"
g!-'."" ...... <'!!
,..........
Steering tube bolt M24x1 80+ 10

Fork bridge, top locking screw M8 25+5

Fork bridge, bottom locking screw M8 25+5

Front brake caliper M8 25+5

Rear axle M16 100+ 10

Rear brake caliper screw M8 25+5 Loctite 290

Rear brake caliper, screw plug locking bolt M10x1 4+ 1

Brake pad locking bolt M10x1 6+5

Brake caliper sliding pin 15+5

Swing bearing pin M16 100+10

Side stand/bearing bracket M6 5+2 Nm, then turn 90°

back

Top handlebar locking screw M8 25+5

Front axle M14x1,5 60+5

Front axle locking ring M6 10+2

Brake hose, banjo bolt M10x1 20+2

Ignition steering lock M6 Break-off screws

Rear brake disc M6- mk 10+2 micro-

encapsulated

Front brake disc M6- mk 10+2 micro-

encapsulated

Brake pedal M6 10+2

Main brake cylinder, rear M6 10+2

Engine mounting, rear M10 40+5

Engine, front

Plate/engine M8 30+5

Platelframe M8 30+5

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 Tightening torques

c ~""'-c C'<c,"
'.i):jllj:'lrj<I<"jj~:ilii::il>I:< I,L<'~',i"';;.;<c' <c ,'. . .
j~'~jjTi;f););i, ."'". , '. "',. .' '" .•,.•. , ..•., Wee')."';"";, c;<;, ·.'· • ·, • '·.) • 'i.
Chain wheel/ drive M8 30+5

Shock absorber mountings

• top M10 40+5

• bottom M10 40+5

Exhaust pipe support/frame M8 25+5

Exhaust clamp M6 10+2

Exhaust flange/cylinder head M6 3+ 1

Exhaust pipe support/exhaust M10 30+5

Instrument mount/Front panel/ M6 1,5+0 ,5

Indicator light
-":
Headlight M6 6+ 1

Regulator mounting M6 4+ 1

Securing instruments to mount M6 4+ 1

Switch lever M6 10+2

Front wheel mud guard M6 6+ 1

Tank (rear) M8 20+s

Fuel cock on tank SIS,S 1,5+0 ,5

Spoiiericooier ivi6 6+ 1

Splash guard on intake muffler M5 0,5+0 ,5

Splash guard on frame M6 6+ 1

Side and rear panelling M6 6+ 1

Front mounting shackle M8 20+5

Rear mounting shackle M8 20+5

Intake muffler (on frame) M6 5+ 1

Pinion cover M6 6+2

Seat mounting at the tank M6 6+ 1

Collar screw for rubber battery piece in the M6 4+ 1 Loctite 243

intake muffler

Brake fluid container on intake muffler M6 2+ 1

Tail Light M4 0,5+0 ,5

Chain guard M6 2+ 1

Left handlebar controls M5 2+ 1

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 LLL.r 1 Tightening torques

Clutch and brake handlebar mountings M6 6+ 1

Throttle twist grip MS S+1

Direction indicators front/back M6 1,S+0,5

Flasher mounting M4 20+ 10 Ncm

(rubber collar nut)

Ignition box mounting MS 70+ 10 Ncm

Ignition coil mounting MS 3+ 1

Horn M6 8+ 1

Relay (rubber collar nut) M4 10+10 Ncm

2.5.2 Engine

Transmission bearing mounting plate, right DIN 912-M6x12-8.8-mk 10+2 Nm micro-

encapsulated
Housing screws DIN 912-M6x30-8.8-ps si 10+2 Nm
Housing screws DIN 912-M6x70-8.8-ps si 10+2 Nm
Tension rod in housing Stud bolt M8 13+3 Nm
Cylinder head nut DIN 6331-M8-10 22 Nm, then tighten
by 80°+10'

TIming chain shaft DIN 912-M6x90-8.8 10+2 Nm

Bearing cap piece nut DIN 6923-M6-8 10+2 Nm
Camshaft bolt DIN 931-M8x2S-10.9 30+2 Nm Loctite 243

Screw, sliding rail M6 screw 10+2 Nm Loctite 243

Bolt, index lever M6 bolt 8+2 Nm Loctite243

Oil pump screw DIN 912-M6x2S-8.8-mk 10+2 Nm micro-

encapsulated
water pump screw DIN 912-M6x20-8.8-mk 10+2 Nm micro-
/
encapsulated \
Primary gear nut DIN 936-M16x1.S-22H left 78+4Nm

Clutch dog nut DIN 934-M12x1-10 S8+4 Nm

Free-wheel countersunk screw DIN 7991-M6x3S-10.9 8+2 Nm Loctite 243

Cover screw, right DIN 912-M6x30-8.8-ps si 10+2 Nm

Cover screw, right DIN 912-M6xSO-8.8-ps si 10+2 Nm
Oil filter cover screw DIN 912-M6x20-8.8-ps si 8+2 Nm
Oil return plug ISO 7379-10 8+2 Nm
M8x30-12.9-f9 ps si
Cover screw, left DIN 912-M6x30-8.8-ps si 10+2 Nm

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 Tightening torques

,
tt 'i "II" '0, ...ue I' ."",."" 'i t\5
""
""

,.,....
.
' ... '.,."
I·
'"'VI"'.
;
f- ",." ... ,.
,
'.,.' " , .,
... ' , . i'
Cover screw, left DIN 912-M6x40-8,8-ps si 10+2 Nm
Clutch springs screw 264M31 A15921 5+ 1 Nm
Air intake fitting screw DIN 912-M6x20-8.8-ps si 8+2 Nm
Idling switch 10+2 Nm
Oil pressure switch M10x1 10+2 Nm
Thermal switch 13+2 Nm
Decoupler EEZ HD 190, 13965,00,3 8+2 Nm
Rotor screw DIN 933-M8x20-10.9-A4K- 26+4 Nm micro-
mk encapsulated
--or, Stator screw DIN 912-M5x25-8,8-A4K-mk 5+2 Nm micro-
encapsulated
Pick-up screw DIN 912-M5x12-8.8-A4K-mk 5+2 Nm micro-
encapsulated
E-starter screw DIN 912-M6x30-8.8-ps si 8+2 Nm
Oil return plug 20+ 5 Nm
Oil screen screw cap DIN 910-M18x1,5-MK 30+5 Nm
Chain adjuster locking screw DIN 908 M18x1,5 15+5 Nm
Crankshaft DIN 912-M8x20-8,8-MK 10+2 Nm
locking screw
Spark plug NGKCR8E 10+2 Nm
Clutch cable counter bearing screw ISO-7380-M6x10-10.9-ps si 10+2 Nm
Clutch activation DIN 6912-M5x20-8,8-ps si 5+2 Nm Loctite 243 and
shaft locking screw colour markings
Clutch activation ISO 7380-M6x1 0-1 0.9-ps si 8+2 Nm
lever screw
Support plate mounting screw for ISO 7380-M5x6-MK 5+2 Nm
\'
alternator cable
Carburettor mounting nut DIN 985-M6-8-MK, nut 8+2 Nm
Bearing cap piece stud bolt DIN 835-M6x30-8,8 6+4 Nm
Exhaust stud bolt DIN 835-M6x30-8,8-MK 5+2 Nm
Chain wheel nut M16x1 70+5 Nm Locking plate

Cable holder screw flat mushroom head screw 5+2 Nm

M5x10-10.9-MK

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 Notes

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 Seat

3 Chassis

3.1 Seat
Removal
1. Turn out peg (1) (bayonet joint) beyond the seat.
2. Raise the seat backward and lift it up and off.

Inspection
Inspect the support elements (3, 4) for wear and porosity.
Replace defective parts.

Installation
1. Snap in the opening beyond the seat under the screw on
the fuel tank and slide it forward.
2. Pressing lightly on the seat, screw the peg (1) in the collar
brushing (2).

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 Locking Hoop

3.2 Locking Hoop

Removal
During remove take care that the rear panelling won't be
damaged.
1. Unscrew the cylinder screws(1) on both sides.
2. Unscrew both hexagon head screws (2).
3. Remove the support bracket from the panelling.

4. In addition, loosen the hexagon head screw (3) when the

vehicle is equipped with a top case carrier.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
Also install the cable holder during mounting the right-hand
support bracket.

3.3 Side Panelling

1. Remove seat.
2. Remove the right and left-hand spoiler.
3. Dismount the support bracket (or the top case carrier).
4. Unscrew both oval flange head screws (2).
5. Remove the side panel.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
To do this, insert the tappet on the tank spoilers into the cutouts
of the side panelling.

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 !.J.:.t.J:1 Fuel Tank

3.4 Fuel Tank

Hazard!
Risk of fire and explosion!
Fuel is a flammable liquid of hazard class A1 and
therefore an extreme fire risk. Fuel fumes are highly
explosive.
Exercise maximum care when working with fuel and
other easily flammable substances!
Only work with the engine switched off and in well
ventilated areas. No smoking! Keep flames and sparks
away from the entire work area.
Completely empty the fuel tank, using only containers
intended for this purpose. Explosive gas fumes
remain in the fuel tank even after it has been
completely drained!
Leaked or drained flammable liquids must be
collected immediately, removed from the working area
and stored in an appropriate location until final
disposal.

The fuel tank is made of plastic (polyethylene PE Marlex).

Defective fuel tanks cannot be repaired.
They must be replaced.
The tank volume is approx. 12.5 I.

Removal
1. Close the filter valve.
2. Remove seat.
3. Unscrew four oval flange head screws (1) on both sides and
remove the tank spoiler.
Place the spoilers so that they will not be damaged.

4. Loosen the clamp (2) and pUll out the fuel hose.
Collect any fuel that runs out.
5. Unscrew the hexagon nuts (4).
6. Hold the fuel tank by the grip in the lower rear, pull it away
from the tank support and pull it off diagonally up and back.

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 Fuel Tank

Inspection
Inspect the following parts and replace, if necessary:
Operating elements of the fuel tank,
Filter valve with O-ring, fuel hose,
Front fuel tank mount,
Tank cap and seal,
Bushing and damping ring on left and right of the frame,
Tight fitling of the pan head screw on the tank.
Installation
Install in reverse order.

3.4.1 Filter Valve

Removal

1. Empty the fuel tank.

To do so, connect the hose to the filter valve, open the filter
valve and let the fuel drain into a suitable container.
2. Unscrew two hexagon sheet metal screws St 5,5.
3. Pull out the filter valve.

Screen

Attention!
Possible eye injury!
Always wear protective goggles when working with
compressed air!

1. Separate the screen (1) from the filter valve by turning it to

the left.

· .. . ····....·············/'
.. m;······· 2. Rinse out with engine cleaner and dry with compressed air.
·· .. 3. Insert the screen into the filter valve, turn to the right to

'n:
11I---l1 tighten.

'. I .-
·
·· .
................
,.'
..
. .~--{2

Note:
There must be space between the inside pipe (2) and the screen.
Otherwise, no fuel can flow through the filter pipe. Operation is
then only possible in the reserve selling of the filter valve (RES).

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 Fuel Tank

Installation
Always use the specified seal ring (oil- and fuel-resistant O-ring)!
The seal surface of the filter valve/fuel tank and the threading
must be undamaged. Otherwise the fuel tank must be replaced!
The filter valve must sit flat on the seal surface.

3.4.2 Tank Cap

If a noticeable negative pressure exists upon removing the tank
cap, the vent on the top of the tank cap is dirty. The fuel can no
longer flow out, the engine performance is reduced.
When the vehicle tipped over, the ball (2) shall prevent the fuel to
CD flow out through the vent in the cap.

(1) Closure cover

® (2) Ball

•
(3) Vent cap
@ (4) Seal
Removal
@ 1. Remove the tank cap by turning it to the left.
2. Pull out seal (4).
3. Remove the ball and inspect the components.

inspection
• Examine seals (3) and (4) for damage and porosity
• Clear vent hole in the cap (1)
Installation
Install in reverse order.

3.4.3 Fuel Filter

The external fuel filter will be inspected in the same intervals as
the screen in the filter valve for dirt.
If the screen is visible dirty or water it must be replaced.
1. Close the filter valve.
2. Open the clamps, pull off the fuel hoses from the fuel filter.
3. Insert a new fuel filter.

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 Lighting/Signal System

3.5 Lighting/Signal System

Always remove the fuses before performing work on the electrical
installation.

The lighting/signal system includes:

Headlight, parking light, taillight, indicator lights, control lights
and horn.
Defective bulbs may only be replaced with the specified bulbs.

3.5.1 Headlight
The headlight is installed in the front panelling.

(1) Front panelling

(2) Two oval flange head screws with nylon washers
(3) Bulb, type: H4-12V-60/55W
(4) Wedge base bulb 5 W 4x12 d 12V 5W
(5) Headlight with bulb socket
(6) Cable harness

Removal
1. Remove the oval flange head screws (2) with shim plates.
2. Remove the headlight reflector (5).
3. Disconnect the connection cable (6) from the bulb.
4. Pull off the rubber cap (6) from the headlight reflector.
5. Remove the bulb (3).
6. Check the terminals and clean if necessary.
The ends of the cable must be clean and tightly clamped in.

Note:
The terminals may tear off when removing the bulb from the
cable. Always hold the bulb by the socket.
Individual wires of the flexible cable must not be split! In this case,
the fault must be corrected and the plug remounted.

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 !.J.J..C 1 Lighting/Signal System

Installation
1. Insert new bulbs with the nose into the guide on the
reflector.
The screen on the lamp must point upward.

Attention!
Inspect the terminals of the connection cable and
clean, if necessary.
Loose, corroded or contaminated terminals result in
loss of power. The illumination is reduced.
Do not touch the glass parts of the bulb with bare
fingers. Carefully clean the bulb glass with a clean,
fibre-free rag and a suitable solvent (e.g. alcohol).

2. Fit the rubber cap.

3. Connect the connection cable and mount the reflector.
4. Perform a function test.
5. Adjust the headlight, if necessary.
Replace the wedge base bulb (parking light).
Type:Wedge base bulb W2.1x9.5 d 12V 5W

Note:
The terminals may tear off when removing the bulb from the
cable. Always hold the bulb by the socket.
Individual wires of the flexible cable must not be split! In this case,
the fault must be corrected and the plug remounted.

1. Remove the headlight (5).

2. Hold the wedge base bulb (4) by the socket and pull it out.
3. Insert a new wedge base bulb.
4. Mount the reflector.
5. Function test.

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 I.J..JJ J Lighting/Signal System

3.5.2 Turn Indicator Lights

All four tum indicator lights are almost identical.
The difference is in the location of the water run-off notch on the
light housing and in the connection cable.
The water run-off notches must always face downward when
installed so that water can flow away.
Perform the same work steps for all four turn indicator lights.

Changing the bulb

Type:19/10-12 V/10 W
1. Unscrew the screw on the rear side.
2. Remove the light emission lens.

3. Turn the bulb slightly to remove it.

4. Check the terminals and clean if necessary.
The ends of the cable must be clean and tightly clamped in.
5. Insert the new bulb, turning slightly, and check that it sits
tightly.
6. Install the light emission lens.

Turn indicator light housing

Removal
1. Unscrew the cable from the negative pole on the battery.
2. Remove the light emission lens.
3. Note the connection locations.
Pull out the cable and remove the reflector.
4. Pull the cable out of the light housing through the indicator
light rod.

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 UJL1 Lighting/Signal System

5. Unscrew the hexagon socket head screw, remove the

housing.

Installation
1. Insert the cable protector into the guide.
2. Screw on the housing.
3. Run the cable through the indicator light rod.
4. Connect the cable and insert the reflector.
5. Install the light emission lens.
6. Perform a function test.

3.5.3 Headlight Casing

Removal
1. Unscrew the two oval flange head screws of the headlight
fixing on both sides, remove the headlight (1) and pull off
the connecting cable from the bulb.
2. Dismount the turn indicators (2) on both sides.
Make certain that the tapping nut do not fall out of the
bracket of the rubber holders.
3. Pull the headlight housing from the front mud guard.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
Inspect the rubber holders of the headlight mask and replace, if
necessary.
1. Insert the headlight housing with the nose into the mud
guard.
2. Mont the turn indicators and the headlight.
3. Perform a function test and adjust the headlight
(see 3.5.4 "Adjusting the Headlight").

Tightening torque:
Oval fiange head screws: 6+ 1 Nm
Turn indicator pan-head screw: 1.5+0,9 Nm

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 U.JL 1 Lighting/Signal System

3.5.4 Adjusting the Headlight

Attention!
Headlights set too high blind other people in traffic
and may lead to accidents.
The headlight must always be correctly adjusted
according to the typical loadl
The headlight must be readjusted after changes in the
spring tension of the shock absorber or other load
changes!

Special adjustment tools are available for adjusting the headlight.

If these devices are used, the manufacturer instructions must be
followed.
To manually adjust the headlight, do the following:
1. Position the vehicle on a flat surface 5 m in front of a vertical
wall and load with a person weighing approx. 75 kg.
Do not use the installation stand.
2. Measure the distance from the centre of the headlight to the
ground.
3. Loosen the mounting screws of the headlight by about two
turns.
4. Switch on the night-time light.
5. Adjust the headlight by tilting and turning the headlight
housing.
When the headlight is correctly adjusted, the light/dark
border of the night-time light cone must be 140 mm below
the headlight centre marked on the wall.
6. Switch the light off and tighten the mounting screws.

3.5.5 Tail Light

The bulb, type 12-21/5W-P25-2 (two-filament bulb), fulfills the
functions of tail light and brake light.

Removal (
1. Unscrew the two oval head tapping screws and remove the
light emission lens.
2. Remove the bulb from the bayonet socket, inspect and
replace, if necessary.

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 G.lt1 Lighting/Signal System

3. Unscrew the two hexagon nuts M6 beyond the rear wheel

mud guard, remove the sleeves and the washers.
4. Remove the rear light, inspect and replace, if necessary.
5. Disconnect the terminals.
6. Inspect the rubber seal, replace if necessary.

Note:
Make note of the cable connection locations.
Danger of short-circuits! The terminals must not touch each
other.

Installation
. -~

1. Insert the rubber seal.

2. Mount the taillight housing and screw it on.
3. Check the terminals and clean if necessary.
The ends of the cable must be clean and tightly clamped in.
4. Connect the cable.
5. Insert a bulb.
6. Screw on the light emission lens.
7. Perform a function test.

3.5.6 Ignition Steering Lock

Every lock has a code number used by MZ to manufacture new
keys.
If this code number is no longer available, providing the VIN
(Vehicle Identification Number), located on the right side of the
steering head pipe) will make it possible for MZ to create a new
key.
Lock maintenance
The ignition steering lock must be treated with a suitable care
agent, depending on the usage conditions.
A frozen lock must be thawed before use. Otherwise the key may
break off.

"

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 u.:JJ: 1 Instruments

3.6 Instruments

3.6.1 Speedometer and Lighting

Removal
Always remove the fuses before performing work on the electrical
installations.
1. Dismantle the front panelling with the headlight
(see 3.5.1 "Headlight").
2. Screw off the speedometer shaft of the speedometer.
3. Unscrew the hexagon nuts of the instrument mount, remove
the washers.
4. Pull the speedometer out of the instrument mount.
5. Draw out defective wedge base bulbs from the socket and
replace (type 12V - 1,2W).

Installation

Note:
When installing the speedometer, the speedometer shaft should
also be lubricated with oil.

1. Inspect the wedge base bulb and replace, if necessary.

2. Coat the socket with silicon spray and insert it.
3. Mount the speedometer and screw in the speedometer
shaft.
4. Fit the front panelling, the headlight and the turn indicator
lights.
5. Adjust the headlight.

3.6.2 Indication Lights

G)@@@@ (1) Turn indicator light

(2) Headlight control
(3) Idler control
(4) Warning light for cooling system
(5) Warning light "Oil pressure too low"

Change r'
1. Pull the control light socket out off the tachometer.
Do not pull on the cable!
2. Pull the defective bulb out by the socket.
3. Check the terminals and clean if necessary.
The ends of the cable must be clean and tightly clamped in
the socket.
4. Insert the new control light into the sockel.
5. Insert the socket into the speedometer.

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 !.J,:.J..r;{ Instruments

3.6.3 Reset Button

Normally the reset button will not be removed. If it is defective,
replace the speedometer.
In special cases, the button can be removed using the method
described below.
Removal
1. Unscrew the 3 screws 2,2x16 from the speedometer moun-
ting plate.
2. Slide an appropriate screw driver between the speedometer
mounting plate and the housing.
3. Insert the screw driver blade into slot of the axle bearing the
reset button (see expanded scope).
4. Turn the reset button in clockwise direction (left-handed
threading).
To do this, hold the screw driver still.
5. Pull the reset button out.

Installation
Install in reverse order.

3.6.4 Instrument Mount

1. Remove the headlight and speedometer.
2. Loosen both M6 screws.
3. Remove the instrument mount.
4. Inspect the edge protection strip (1) 60 mm, replace if
necessary.

Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 UJL1 Ignition Lock

3.7 Ignition Lock

Removal
1. Remove the front panelling
2. Remove the instrument mount.
3. Remove the upper fork bridge.
4. Unscrew the switch from the lock.

5. Mark the centres of the break-off screws (1).

6. Drill out the break-off screws (2).
7. Remove the ignition lock.
8. Heat up the stalk for the screws in the fork bridge to approx.
80°C to liquefy the screw locking agent.
9. Remove the remaining thread pieces with a pliers.

Installation
1. Rethread both M8 thread pieces.

Note:
Ifthe threading pieces are not rethreaded, the screws may break
off before the ignition lock is firmly in place.
Then the work must be performed again.

2. Clean the threads.

3. Apply the screw locking agent at "medium tightness" to the
new break-off screws, screw on the lock.
4. Screw on the lock.
Screw in the break-off screws until the screw head breaks
off.
5. Place the switch on the ignition lock and screw it on.
The locking pins must fit exactly into the lock.
6. Fit the upper fork bridge with the speedometer, tighten the
clamping screws.
7. Mount the handlebar.
8. Connect the ignition steering switch cable to the cable
harness.
9. Mount the front panelling.
10. Function test:
• electrical installation
• front wheel braking function
• ignition switch
• locking of the ignition steering switch locking mechanism
• easy motion of the steering bearing

36 05/02 MZ 125 SXlSM Repair Manual

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 !.Jj..r;f Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.8 Front Wheel Mud Guard

Removal
1. Pull the guide eyelet of the speedometer shaft turning it.

2. Unscrew the four M6 screws.

3. Pull the front wheel mud guard out of the noses (1) of the
front panelling and remove it from the sliding pipes.

Installation
1. Slide the front wheel mud guard between the sliding pipes
and press it onto the noses (1) with plastic caps (2).
2. Insert the collar brushing into the front wheel mud guard
from below and screw on the front wheel mud guard to the
lower fork bridge.
3. Insert the guide eyelet.

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.9 Rear Wheel Mud Guard

3.9.1 Rear Wheel Mud Guard

Removal
1. Remove the seat (see 3.1 "Seat").
2. Remove locking hoop (see 3.2 "Locking Hoop").
3. Disconnect the cable from the taillight (see 3.5.5 ''Tail
Light").
T If the tail light is not being replaced, it may remain in the
mud guard.
4. Open the turn indicator light, disconnect the cable from the
terminals and pull the cable out of the indicator light rod.
5. Remove the electronic components the in the rear part.
6. Unscrew both hexagon head screws (1).
7. Unscrew the both oval flange head screws (2).
8. Remove the rear wheel mud guard.
Remove the indicator lights and taillight, if necessary.
CD
Installation
Install in reverse order.

3.9.2 Rear Reflector

Removal
It is useful (but not necessary) to remove the end piece when
replacing the rear reflector.
1. Remove the end piece.
2. Lift up both spring nuts from the plastic pins on the rear
reflector using a screw driver.
3. Pull out the rear reflector.

Installation
After inspection, the spring nuts can be reused.
1. Insert the rear reflector into the end piece.
2. Place the end piece flat on the scratch-protected base.
3. Press on the spring nuts with an appropriate piece of pipe
(inside diameter 10 mm, e.g. tubular socket spanner,
size 10)
4. Install the end piece.

3.9.3 Shock Absorber Protector

The shock absorber protector protects the shock absorber
against spraying water and dirt from the rear wheel.
1. Pull the three plastic rivets out of the intake muffler.
2. Spray rubber care agent on the new shock absorber
protector.
3. Inspect the plastic rivets and replace, if necessary.
4. Connect the shock absorber protector to the intake muffler
with the plastic rivets.

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 !.J,j..r 1 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10 Handlebar

3.10.1 Mirror

Note:
Correctly adjusted mirrors improve driving safety.
The mirror must be adjusted individually for every rider.

The work steps apply to both mirrors.

1. Slide up the rubber sleeve (1), loosen the lock nut (1)
(spanner size 14).
2. Unscrew the mirror.
3. Grease the threads (3).
The grease protects the threads against corrosion.
4. Screw on the mirror.
5. Adjust the mirror and tighten the lock nut (2).
6. Slide on the rubber sleeve (1).

" 3.10.2 Bowden cables

<Dj x r: II
L ~y i
The following bowden cables are installed on the handlebar:
Throttle cable (1):
Startei cable (2):
1= 850+3 mm, x+y = 140±1 mm
1= 910-2 mm, x+y == 100~2 mm
Clutch cable (3): I = 850+3 mm, x+y = 120+2 mm
@j x r II
L4 y
r
@1 x 1'.'
F
L
11:3:11
9"
Note:
Bowden cables must have freedom of motion in every position.
They must not be cramped or kinked!
Bowden cable must not be pre-tensioned, that is they must not
apply force when not in use (e.g. grinding clutch, etc.).

Maintenance
The bowden cables must not tear under the required operation
forces and they most be easily moved. For this reason, they must
be inspected and maintained in regular intervals (see mainte-
nance intervals).
To ensure good sliding action, the inside of the bowden cable
sheaths are coated with Teflon.
For lUbrication, use an oil that does not attack Teflon (e.g.: thin
silicon oil).

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 U.JL J Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10.3 Throttle Twist Grip

Removal
1. Slide back the rubber cap (1).
2. Loosen the lock nut(2) , screw the adjusting screw into the
throttle grip.
3. Unscrew the two hexagon socket head screws (3).
4. Remove the throttle twist grip and dismantle.
5. Disconnect the bowden cable.

Installation
1. Inspect the connector pieces for damage and replace, if
necessary.
2. Connect the bowden cable to the left hole (overhead view,
holes face upward) of the connecting part.
If the right hole is used, the bowden cable is too short.
3. Lubricate the steering pipe, slide on the throttle grip.
Do not use grease, it reduces the twisting freedom.

3.10.4 Rubber Grips

Right rubber grip (throttle twist grip)
1. Cut through the rubber grip and remove it.
2. Slide on a new rubber piece with a suitable rubber adhe-
sive.
Left rubber grip

Attention!
Always wear protective goggles when working with
compressed air.

1. Make a small hole in the front side of the rubber piece using
a needle.
2. Insert the compressed air gun.
3. Loosen the rubber piece from the handlebar using
compressed air and remove it.

4. Treat the new rubber grip with suitable rubber adhesive.

5. Slide on the rubber grip.

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10.5 Handlebar
Removal
1. Remove the mounting clamp for the clutch mount and
combination switch unit.
2. Remove the rubber grip, pull off the starting carburettor
lever and washer.
3. Cut off the cable binder.

4. Remove the main brake cylinder, switch and throttle twist

grip.

5. Unscrew the four screws on the top handlebar mount.

6. Remove the handlebar.

Installation
Install in reverse order. Install the handlebar centred. When posi-
tioning the handlebar mount, make certain that the gaps between
the handlebar mount and the front and back of the fork yoke are
equal.

Tightening torque:
M8 handlebar mount screws: 25+5 Nm

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10.6 Swingarm
Handlebars are always delivered with mounted swingarms. The
swingarm smoothes out vibrations in the handlebar that occur
while riding. They are no wearing parts and normally need not be
removed.
Removal
1. Remove the left rubber grip (see 3.10.4 "Rubber Grips").
2. Remove the handlebar (see 3.10.5 "Handlebar").
3. Carefully pound on the end of the handlebar and bend using
a rubber or polyamide hammer.
The hammering forces out the swingarm.

Installation
1. Insert the swingarm into the handlebar.
The distance between the handlebar end and the swingarm
end must be 25 mm.
2. Mount the handlebar.

3.10.7 Hand Brake Lever

Removal

1. Unscrew the locking nut (1) and screw the slotted screw (2)
off upward.
2. Loosen the locking nut (3) and unscrew the adjusting screw.
3. Remove the brake lever (4) with two washers.
4. Remove and inspect the pressure pins (5) and dust cover
(6).

Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10.8 Front Brake Light Switch

The brake light switch cannot be adjusted.
Removal
1. Remove the protective cap (1) from the brake light switch.
2. Pull out the two cables (2).
Pull on the terminals, not the cable!
3. Unscrew the brake light switch with a pliers.

Inspection
Perform continuity check.
Brake lever not activated =switch open (no connection signal).
Installation
Install in reverse order.

3.10.9 Clutch Lever

Removal
1. Slide back the protective cover from the adjusting screw.
2. Screw in the adjusting screw (maximum play).
3. Remove the screw and lock nut.
4. Push the lever forward.
5. Disconnect the bovlJden cable.

Note:
The cable pulley is slotted and may fall down during removal.

Inspection
Inspect the bushing, replace if necessary. Grease the cable
pulley and the cable pulley chamber.
Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.10.10 Switch/Mount
Removal
1. Unscrew the two screws in front and one in back.
2. Separate housing.
3. Remove switch.

The starting carburettor lever is locked into the housing.

Installation
The pins of switch housing must snap into the opening of the
handlebar pipe (position lock).

Removal
There are two options for replacing the starting carburettor lever:
1st option:
1. Remove the left rubber grip (1) (see 3.10.4 "Rubber Grips").
2. Pull off the starting carburettor lever (2) to the left.
3. Remove the starter bowden cable (3).

2nd option:
1. Remove all mounts from the handlebar (except for the left
rubber grip).
2. Remove the handlebar.
3. Pull off the starting carburettor lever to the right.
Installation
Install in reverse order.
Grease the inside of the starting carburettor lever.

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 Front Wheel Mud Guard

3.11 Air Filter

Attention!
Dust and dirt entering the engine increase wear on the
piston and cylinder.
Only start the engine with an intact air filter.
Observe the specified replacing and cleaning
schedule.

The air filter is located in the intake muffler under the seat. Its
functioning has a significant influence on the composition of the
fuel air mixture.
A dirty air filter leads to a fuel air mixture which is richer in fuel.
The fuel consumption increases and the engine performance is
reduced.
A defective air filter (e.g. filter paper torn) leads to a leaner (less
fuel) fuel air mixture. The engine performance is reduced and
damage may be caused due to overheating.
Removal
1. Remove the seat.
2. Lift up and remove the intake pipe.

r
3. Remove the tension from the body·bound rivet (1) by pulling
out the middle part.
4. Then pull body-bound rivet upward and completely out.
5. Pull the air filter (2) out upward.
II

Cleaning

Attention!
Always wear protective goggles when working with
compressed air!

If the filter paper is extremely dirty, defective or moist, the air filter
must be replaced.
If the filter is only slightly dirty, knock the dirt out or blow it out with
compressed air in the opposite direction of the intake flow.

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 Shock Absorber

Installation

Note:
The foam seal surface of the air filter must not be damaged. It
must overlap the edge of the intake muffler exactly.
The opening of the intake pipe may not be blocked by parts or
cables. This can result in reduced performance!

1. Insert the air filter into the locking indentation, press the
foam forward toward the carbu rettor.
2. Insert the body-bound rivet and tension it.
3. Connect the intake pipe (1).
The intake pipe must be seated correctly with its sealing lips
on the intake muffler (see arrow left in the figure).
4. Install the seat.

3.12 Shock Absorber

Production models of the motorcycle are delivered with a spring
length of 184,5 ± 2 mm. This is the proper setting for a load of
approx. 75 kg.
If a pillion rider is along, the spring preload must be increased to
a length of 177 mm.
The damping of the shock absorber cannot be adjusted.

Guidelines:
Single rider, 75 kg spring length 184,5 ± 2 mm
Two riders: spring iength 177 ± 2 rnm
Intermediate settings are also possible.
Adjusting the spring preload to a spring length of 190 mm can
lower the seat height by approx. 20 mm.

Attention
After changing the spring preload, the headlight must
be readjusted.

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 Shock Absorber

Adjustment
1. Loosen the locking nut (1).
a 2. Adjust the spring preload by changing the spring length (L):
=
- lighten setting nut (2) greater spring preload,
=
- Loosen setting nut (2) less spring preload
3. Hold the adjusting nut in position and tighten the locking
nut.
4. Adjust the headlight (see 3.5.4 "Adjusting the Headlight").

Removal
1. Remove the seat and side panel.
2. Unscrew the upper M10 pan-head screw, holding the nut
still.
3. Pull off the screw.

4. Unscrew the lower M10 pan-head screw, holding the nut

still.
5. Pull out the pan-head screw.

6. Pull out the shock absorber down and to the rear.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
The lower screw must be inserted from the left side of the vehicle.

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 Shock Absorber

3.13 Foot Rests

3.13.1 Rear Foot Rest

1. Bend up the splint (1), remove the splint and washer.
2. Pull out clevis pin (2).
3. Pull the foot rest (3) with ball spring and special washer (4)
out of the mount.
4. Remove the spring, ball and sleeve (5).
5. Inspect all parts and replace, if necessary.

Installation
1. Insert the sleeve, spring and ball into the foot rest with
grease.
2. Position the special washer such that the ball can snap into
the hole of the special washer when the foot rest is folded
up.
3. Slide the clevis pin through from above.
4. Position the washer and secure with a new splint.

3.13.2 Front Foot Rest

Removal
1. Pull off the foot rest rubber piece (1).
2. Bend up the splint (2), remove the splint and washer.
3. Puii out the pins (3).
4. Pull the foot rest (4) and spring (5) out of the mount.

Installation
1. Slide the foot rest with spring onto the mount.
2. Lightly grease the pins and slide them through.
3. Position the washer.
4. Insert a new splint and bend it over.

5. Place the foot rest rubber piece on the foot rest, pull the
rubber nipple through with a pliers.

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 Shock Absorber

3.14 Side Stand

3.14.1 Side Stand Switch

The side stand switch prevents starting and riding with the side
stand foided out and the gear engaged at the same time reducing
the risk of accidents.
It interrupts the ignition line when the stand is folded down and
the motorcycle is put in gear.

Removal

A
Hazard!
Accident risk!
A defective switch eliminates the safety function!
To loosen the connection, only turn the mounting
screw.
If the nut is also turned, the switch may be destroyed.

1. Disconnect cable from the cable harness.

2. Hold the self-tightening nut on the switch and turn only the
screw.
3. Remove the nut, washer and side stand switch.

Installation
1. Adjust the side stand switch with the nose of the switching
part in the hole of the side stand fork.
2. Slide the side stand switch onto the mounting pins on the
pivot bracket.
3. Position the washer and self-tightening nut, hold it still.
0
4. First tighten the screw with a torque of 5 Nm, then turn 90
back.
5. Run the cable upward between the intake muffler and the
frame and connect it to the cable harness.
6. Function test of the side stand switch.

Tightening torque:
0
M6 screw: 5 Nm, then turn 90 back

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 Shock Absorber

3.14.2 Side Stand

Attention!
Risk of injury!
The tension springs may jump away during removall
installation!
Wear protective goggles!

Removal
1. Remove the side stand switch.
2. Pull off the screw.
3. Slide through the sleeve with thorn.
4. Pull the side stand downward off the pivot bracket.
5. Disconnect the springs.

Installation
1. Connect the side stand to the springs and with the stand in
folded position, lift it onto the pivot bracket with the fork,
using some force.
2. Grease the sleeve well, insert the sleeve and screw.
3. Adjust the side stand switch with the nose of the switching
part in the hole of the side stand fork. :J
4. Install the side stand switch.
T .... A ..... +hi ... +i,..h+"".... h +h 1\.J1&:: ~,.. .. \Alith l::; 1I.In"l Tho tt .r.... fho
I V \.IV ~'''''''' LI~.'~" HI • • v
O'\A/C.
VVILI , .. , ••• I ' "1 .,,'-'

screw approx. 90' back.

Only turn the screw while holding the nut still.
5. Function test of the side stand switch.

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 Shock Absorber

3.15 Intake Muffler

Removal
1. Secure the vehicle against tipping.
2. Remove the seat, spoiler, fuel tank and the side panels.
3. Remove the battery, fuse box and relay.
4. Disconnect the cable from the parking light switch.
5. Remove the exhaust system.
6. Remove the chain guard and rear wheel.
7. Remove the intake pipe (1), shock absorber protector (3),
ventilation hose (5) and condensate collector (4).
8. Removing the air intake fitting of the carburetor.
9. Empty the condensate collector (4) and clean, if necessary.
10. Remove the shock absorber.
11. Remove the reserve brake fluid tank, remove the main
brake cylinder, run the hose outward and attach it to the
frame.

12. Unscrew the four M6 screws (2) and remove the washers.

13. Rotate the intake muffler downward around the pivot of the
upper mount and pull it out toward the rear.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
Observe the proper tightening torques for the mounting screws.

Tightening torque:
Mounting screws:

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 Shock Absorber

3.16 Muffler

Hazard!
Risk of burns!
The exhaust system becomes very hot while the
engine is running. Let the exhaust system cool before
working on it.

Removal
1. Loosen the locking screw on the manifold-muffler connec-
tion (exhaust clamp).

2. Remove the exhaust mount plate.

3. Pull muffler away from the manifold with turning move-
ments.

Installation
1. Slide the muffler (1) onto the manifold (3).
2. Attach the muffler cable to the frame.
3. Tighten the locking screw (2) on the manifold-muffler
connection.
The exhaust must not be under mechanical stress.

Note:
Exhaust jointing compound can be used to seal the muffler-mani-
fold connection. Any leak in the connection between exhaust
silencer and exhaust manifold may cause muffler back-firing.
The muffler must be treated with a suitable care agent for stain-
less steel at regular intervals.

Tightening torque:
Exhaust clamp:
Exhaust pipe support (frame):

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 Shock Absorber

3.16.1 Exhaust Mount Plate

Removal
1. Remove the muffler (see 3.16 "Muffler").
2. Remove the screw (1) and washers.
3. Remove the mount plate (2).

Installation
1. Inspect the spacer sleeve (3) and cable sleeve (4), replace
if necessary.
2. Install all parts loosely.
3. Fit the mount plate (2) to the muffler.
4. Tighten the screw (1).

Tightening torque:
Hexagon head screw:

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 Shock Absorber

3.16.2 Manifold
Removal

1. Remove the muffler (see 3.16 "Muffler").

2. Unscrew the M6 nuts on the manifold flange.
3. Remove the manifold.
4. Remove the exhaust flange from the manifold.
5. Remove the manifold seal from the cylinder head.

Installation
1. Apply some grease to the new manifold seal on the side of
the cylinder and place it on the seal seat in the cylinder
head.
2. Apply copper paste to the stud bolts.
The copper paste prevents the nuts from burning in tightly to
the stud bolts.
3. Place the exhaust flange on the manifold and slide it onto
the stud bolts.
4. Insert the manifold into the cylinder head and place the
flange on the stud bolts.
5. Position the washers and push the manifold against the seal
with the nuts (screw on a few turns). It must still be possible
to move the manifold.
6. insiaii the muffler.
7. Screw the manifold on tight.

Note:
Avoid poor seals!
Any leak in the connection between exhaust silencer and exhaust
manifold may cause muffler back-firing. The stud bolts may break
off!
Tighten the nuts evenly with the specified tightening torque. The
flange must sit parallel on the seal surface.
Broken or unusable stud bolts can be drilled out and replaced.

Tightening torque:
Exhaust flange nuts:

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 Cooling System

3.17 Cooling System

3.17.1 Coolant

Attention!
Insufficient coolant can damage the engine!
If coolant is lost, the cause must be eliminated.

The coolant system is filled with a mixture of high quality brand-

1 name coolant for aluminium engines with anti-freeze characteri-
stics and distilled water.
The coolant level (1) should be just under the lower seal surface
of the radiator cap when the engine is cold.
The recommended mixture ratio of 1:1 (water: coolant guaran-
tees anti-freeze protection down to 20°C (_4°F).
Take heed of any additional or different information provided by
the coolant manufacturer!

Fill the radiator system with a coolant.

All hose connections must be connected and leak-proof.
Use an approx 30 cm hose with an inner diameter of 10 mm to fill
the cooling system.

1. Place the vehicle on the side stand.

2. Let the engine cool.
3. Remove the radiator cap by turning it to the left.
4. Screw out the air bleeding screw.
5. Connect the hose with funnel to the filler connection.
6. Fill coolant (mixture of high-quality brand name coolant for
aluminium engines and distilled water) until the left radiator
is full.
7. Put the motorcycle in vertical position.
8. Pull off the hose.
9. Close the radiator cap.
10. Screw in the air bleeding screw.

Refilling Coolant
Open the closure cover and top up the coolant to the maximum
filling level.

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 Cooling System

3.17.2 Radiator Cap

The radiator cap functions as both a seal and a valve.
Inspection
1. Inspect the tight seat of the radiator cap (1).
2. Disconnect the upper (thin) radiator connection hose of the
right radiator and close the connection air-tight with plug (3).
Secure the plug.
3. Disconnect the lower (thick) radiator connection hose of the
left radiator and close the connection air-tight with plug (4)
and a clamp.
4. Place the appropriate hose (2) over the overllow outlet and
hold the other end in a container filled with water.
Observe air bubbles upon opening of the valve.
5. Appiya pressure of more than approx. 1.2 bar to the second
radiator connection (5) and increase the pressure slowly.

o At 1.4 bar, the valve of the radiator cap must open.

Air escapes from the radiator cap and flows through the hose into
the container. Air bubbles can be seen in the container.
If an opening pressure of over 1.4 bar is required, the radiator cap
must be replaced.

3.17.3 Radiator Hoses

Inspect the radiator hoses for damage (e.g. cracks) and examine
their condition (e.g. porosity).
Replace radiator hoses, if necessary.
Removal
1. Drain the coolant.
2. Open the hose clamps.
3. Pull off the radiator hoses and remove the hose clamps.

J Installation
1. Inspect the hose clamps.
Replace defective hose clamps.
2. Slide the hose clamps onto the new radiator hoses.
3. Push the new radiator hoses onto the connections.
4. Screw in the hose clamps.
5. Fill coolant up to the lower edge of the fill marks.

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 Cooling System

3.17.4 Radiator
Do not clean the two-part radiator with a high pressure cleaner or
an intense stream of water. The radiator plates may deform and
the cooling performance will be reduced.
Repair of a defective radiator is not possible.
Radiators do not need to be replaced in pairs.
Removal

Hazard!
Risk of scalding!
Coolant becomes very hot while the engine is running.
Do not open the radiator cap while the engine is hot!
Let the radiator cool before starting work.
Risk of injury!
The coolant system works with overpressure.
Wear protective gloves. Open the radiator cap care-
fully to release the pressure.

1. Let the engine cool.

2. Remove the tank.
3. Disconnect the fan cable from the power supply.
4. Open the radiator cap carefully and let the pressure escape.
5. Position a suitable container under the radiator to be
emptied and drain the radiator one after the other.
6. Loosen the lower clamp and pull off the radiator hose.
Drain the coolant into a suitable container.
7. Loosen the clamps on the supply and drainage hoses and
pull the hoses away from the radiator.
8. Remove the ventilation hose.

9. Remove the two screws of the respective radiator mount.

Hold the appropriate radiator in place with one hand when
removing the second screw.
10. Remove the radiator.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
Connecting hoses must be placed kink-free around the frame.

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 Cooling System

3.17.5 Thermostat
Removal
1. Drain the coolant (see 3.17 "Cooling System").
2. Remove the seat and fuel tank (see 3.4 "Fuel Tank").
3. Open both hose clamps on the thermostat.
4. Pull the thermostat away from the radiator hoses.

5. Remove the two screws and separate the housing.

Be careful with the a-ring!

The thermostat cannot be separated from the thermostat

housing, only the top part can be removed.

Inspection
If the opening temperature range does not match the ones speci-
fied the thermostat must be replaced.

(A) Position of the thermostat with coolant water

temperatures < 71°C => closed.
(B) Position of the thermostat (1) with cold water
temperatures ;0, 81°C => open.

The difference between (A) and (B) must be (L) >5 mm.

(1) Thermostat
(2) Housing
(3) End cap

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 Cooling System

As shown by the line, the thermostat begins to open at 71 ·C.

[mm]
At 81 ·C the maximum opening of 5 mm is reached.
5 --------------~--

o
71 8
1. When the thermostat is cold, measure from the front edge
® @ of the cap (B) in the thermostat to the edge (A) (e.g. depth
gauge).
2. Record the value.
3. Place the thermostat in a container filled with water.
4. Heat the water slowly with constant stirring.
5. Check the temperature with an exact thermometer.

Attention!
Risk of scalding!
Only use safe tools.

6. Upon reaching a temperature of 81 ·C, immediately remove

the thermostat from the water with an appropriate tool, e.g.
pliers, and repeat the above measurement.
7. The front edge of the thermostat must have moved 5 mm
toward the inside in comparison with the recorded value.
8. If the difference of 5 mm is not reached at 81 ·C, the ther-
mostat must be replaced.
Installation

Attention!
Risk of engine damage due to overheating!
The thermostat has bypass holes to ensure a
minimum of water flow.
These bypass holes must always be open.

1. Treat the O-ring with silicon spray and slide it onto the ther-
mostat.
2. Position the top part and mount it with both screws.

Note:
The O-ring must not be crushed/damaged, otherwise the thermo-
stat has no seal.

3. Connect the radiator hoses to the thermostat.

4. Mount and close the hose clamps.
5. Fill coolant up to the lower edge of the fill marks (approx.
0.95 litre).

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 Telescopic Fork

3.18 Telescopic Fork

The telescopic fork has hydraulic damping.
It softens hard jolts from the road surface, preventing the shocks
from bottoming. It reduces the after-vibrations of the shocks. This
function contributes significantly to the condition of the road,
thereby improving safety.

I
A =damping fluid level =140 ± 2,5 mm
=length without spring, the upright pipe completely inserted
-,I
'I
I I

i
® B

Volume per fork spar: 445 cm 3

Recommendation: Gabel61 SAE 7,5 -10 W

! I
I,

®
~ t
I
I

Note:
Fork oil absorbs air humidity, altering its function. For this reason
it must be replaced no later than every two yeais!
Fork oil attacks the paint.
Avoid drops and splashes on painted surfaces.

60
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 Telescopic Fork

3.18.1 Fork Spars

Removal

Attention!
The vehicle may tip over!
Ensure that the vehicle is standing securely.
Place the vehicle in the installation stand on an elevat-
ed surface and secure with belts.
Scrapes on the surface of the upright pipes interfere
with their seal. Fork oil may leak. Make certain that the
surface ofthe upright pipes do not have or receive any
scratches.

1. Place the vehicle on the installation stand, secure it against

tipping with belts.
2. Remove the front wheel.
3. Remove the speedometer shaft and brake hose from the
guide, open the rubber holders.
4. Remove the mud guard (see 3.8 "Front Wheel Mud
Guard").
5. Remove the brake caliper.
6. Remove the locking screws for the telescopic fork from the
upper and lower fork bridges.
7. Pull the spar down and out, inspect the surface.

Installation
1. Insert the fork spar.
The joint (1) between the sealing cap and the sliding pipe
must be flush against the uppei flat sUiTace of the fOik
bridge.
2. Tighten the fork bridge locking screws (2).
3. Mount the mud guards, mount the front wheel.

Tightening torque:
M8 locking screws:

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 Telescopic Fork

3.18.2 Dismantling the Telescopic Fork

Environment!
Environmental hazard!
Fork oil may flow out!
Hold the open fork spar vertically to prevent escape of
the fork oil.
Immediately collect escaped oil and dispose of it prop-
erly.

1. Loosen the locking screw (1) of the top fork bridge.

2. Loosen the sealing cap (2) (do not screw it off).
3. Remove the telescopic fork (see 3.18 "Telescopic Fork").
4. Remove the screw plug, remove the spacer sleeve, pull the
spring far enough out of the spar that oil can drip from the
spring.
5. Compress the fork spar, let the fork oil flow into a suitable
container.

Note:
Lack of care in working with the screw driver can lead to nicking
and scratching of the upright pipe surfacel

6. Carefully remove the wiper.

The upright pipe must not be damaged.

Note:
Possible paint damage and destruction of the wiper seat!
Do not place the screw driver against the sliding pipe and apply
leverage.

7. Place protective blocks and cleaning paper between vice

jaws, stress the fork spar.
8. Unscrew the M1 0 cylinder screw.

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 Telescopic Fork

9. Remove the retaining ring turning the screw driver blade.

10. Pull the upright pipe and pressure spring out off the sliding
pipe.
Hold the upright pipe that it does not fall down.

11. Remove the support pipe with a stop spring.

12. Lift the seal ring from the seat on the sliding pipe with
turning motions of the screw driver blade.
Protect the sliding pipe against damage.

13. Ram the slide tube cautiously against a support (wood) until
the piston ring falls out.
14. Clean all parts carefully.

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 Telescopic Fork

Inspection
Perform the following inspections:
• Curvature of the upright pipe (10),
® Bent upright pipes cannot be straightened.
Wear/damage on the sliding bush,
piston ring (13),
Replace the sliding surface piston ring in the event of exces-
sive wear and/or damage.
® Inspect the spring length:
- (A) spring length, unstressed: 555 ±5 mm.
- (B) outer diameter: top 32 +0,2/ -0,4 mm,
bottom 26 +0,2/ -0,4 mm
- (C) wire diameter: 4,35 mm,
- spring winding: 43,5,9 of which less tightly,
- spring constant: 3,8 N/mm.

Installation
Assemble the sliding pipe
~
1. Insert the sliding bush (5).
Prepare the upright pipe for installation
1. Place the lover sliding bush (11).
2. Brush the support pipe (14) and piston ring (13) with fork oil.
3. Insert the support pipe (14) with stop spring (15) into the
upright pipe (10).

r /9
4. Insert the compression spring (13) with the narrow winding
directed to the bottom into the upright pipe to create a
counter brace for the support pipe.
® 5. Screw on the sealing cap (16) two turns.
Then the support pipe (7) must protrude from the upright
pipe.

~ / /1 ~
6. Place end stop cone (12) on the support pipe (14).
Assemble the sliding pipe with the upright pipe
1. Place the sliding pipe (6) with brush onto the upright pipe
(10).
2. Centre the end stop.
~ 4> @ To do this, hold the upright pipe (10) and turn the sliding

(1) ~:GI@lj pipe approximately twice.

3. Screw the sliding pipe with upright pipe using screw (9) and
sealing washer (8).
4. Reverse the telescopic fork, unscrew the sealing cap (16)
and remove the compression spring (19).
5. Entirely slide the upright pipe into the sliding pipe.
6. Inspect the easy motion between the sliding and upright
pipe by means of rotation and axial displacement.
7. Slide on the spacer ring (4).
8. Apply fork oil to the inside of the seal ring (3).
9. Press the seal ring (3) with a pipe (outside 0 =48 mm,
inside 0= 40 mm) into the sliding pipe (6).
10. Place the retaining ring (2) into the groove.
11. Brush the wiper (1) with fork oil and mount.
12. Add approx. 450 ml of fork oil, compress the fork spar to the
end stop 5 times to remove air from the fork.
13. Compress the fork spar up to the end stop.

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 Telescopic Fork

The oil suction devices available in accessory shops are recom-

mended for precise filling of the two fork spars.
The image on the right shows one of the models.
14. Loosen the locking screw (8).
A 15. Slide the pipe (A) until the distance from the end of the pipe
to the lower edge of the cover (C) is (L)=140±2,5 mm)
Lock the pipe.
16. Hang the suction device with the cover into the upright pipe.
17. Suck up excess fork oil (nominal filling volume 445 ml).
18. Remove the suction device.
19. Pull out the upright pipe (10) up to the stop,
insert the compression spring (19) and spacer sleeve (18)
into the upright pipe.
20. Insert the sealing cap (16) with the seal ring (17) into the
upright pipe with light pressure and screw together. Torques
20Nm
21. Install the fork spar.

3.18.3 Fork Bridges

Removal
1. Remove the seat, the fuel tank and the front wheel mud
guard.
2. Completely remove the handlebar, disconnect the righl/left
plug connector switch and ignition lock (careful of barbs)
under the fuel tank container.
3. Place the handlebar onto the rear part of the frame.
Do not kink brake hoses and cables!

Note:
To prevent damage to the M24x1 nut, a piece of foil may be
wrapped around the tool (sockel/ring spanner).

4. Loosen the locking screws on righl/left.

5. Remove the M24x1 nut and washer.
Take care that the telescopic fork and front wheel do not fall
out.
6. Remove the upper fork bridge.
7. Pull out the lower fork bridge.

If additional work must be performed (lock replacement, etc.), the

switch on the ignition lock can be removed.

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~X{~M Rpn:::lir M:::lnw~1 O!'i102 65
 Telescopic Fork

3.18.4 Steering Bearing

The steering bearing consists of two greased ball bearings (1)
and a spacer sleeve (2).
The spacer sleeve (2) guarantees a specified distance between
the bearings in the steering head (3).
Exact installation is made possible by a pressing tool.

Removal
1. Remove the fuel tank, seat, front wheel.
2. Disconnect the start, clutch and throttle bowden cables.
3. Disconnect the electrical system, six plug connectors (rightl
left switch, ignition switch, headlight, instruments.
4. Remove the handlebar.
5. Remove the upper fork bridge.
6. Completely pull the telescopic fork down and out.

7. Remove the cover and fitting washer from the top bearing.
8. CarefUlly pound out the lower bearing from above using a
hammer and spike.

Attention!
Damage to bearing!
Do not jam the bearing when pounding it out!
Alternate pounding on opposite sides.

9. Remove the bearing and spacer sleeve.

10. Pound out the top bearing from below.

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 Telescopic Fork

Installation

Attention!
Do not pound the bearing in with a hammer!
Always use a pressing tool.

r+-, Dimensions for pressing tool

Pressure piece: 2x
[ I 1 Nut: M16x1 ,5, 2x
I I I Pressure piece material:Steel C15

+ ;
I
\1116 1~16·~1
\1124.8
051.5
Threading pin material:Steel 50CrV4

I !Xl
I III
C'l
I
III
I .....
I
I
I
i
M16x1.5

Attention!
A\
,. )
Only use original spacer sleeves!
Do not flatten Oi bend the spacer sleeve vvhile
pressing in the bearing!

1. Insert the new, greased ball bearings (3) and spacer

~~;:==:;-<p sleeves (4) into the steering head (5).
2. Press the ball bearings and spacer sleeve into the steering
~;O---._-® head using the pressing tool described above.

I!---!''--~ 4 (1) Hexagon nut

~~~~ (2) Pressure piece

~
(6) Threading pin

~
-<D

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 Telescopic Fork

3. Place the fitting washer (10) on the lower fork bridge (15),
rl~-----j®
slide the telescopic fork with steering pipe (14) into the pre-
~ installed steering bearing from below.
4. Lay the filling washer (13) onto the top bearing.
13 5. Position the cover (9).
6. Mount the top fork bridge (12), position the washer (8) and
14 tighten with the M24x1 nut (11).
7. Mount the handlebar.
8. Connect the cable to the cable harness and lay properly.
9. Connect the three bowden cables.
Make certain they do not kink.
10. Install the front wheel.
11. Install the fuel tank and seat.
12. Perform a function test on the front brake.

Tightening torque:
Top locking screws: 25+5 Nm
Bottom locking screws: 25+5 Nm

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 Swing Fork

3.19 Swing Fork

The riding performance of the motorcycle depends heavily on the
proper functioning of the swing fork.
The swing bearings consist of rubber brushes.
In case of play detected the rubber parts must replaced.

Removal

1. Remove the pinion cover and take off the chain.

2. Remove the brake hose from the holders.
3. Remove the rear wheel, remove the chain adjuster (1) on
both sides.
4. Unscrew the lower shock absorber mount (2)
5. Remove the sealing cap (3), loosen the M16x1.5 hexagon
nut (4).
6. Pull out the swing bearing pin (5) and spacer sleeve (6).
7. Pull the swing fork (7) out of the frame.

Installation
1. Insert the greased swing bearing pin with washer approx. 1·
em into the frame.
2. Insert the swing fork into the frame and slide the swing
bearing pins up to the stop.
3. Position the locking washer Nord-Lock 16x25.4 (1) on the
left and screw the nut (2) on a few turns.
Do not tighten it yet.

Note:
Possible damage to the swing bearing!
First screw on the shock absorber with the swingarm, then tighten
the swing bearing bolts.

4. Screw the shock absorber to the swing fork, press the

locking caps onto the nuts of the swing bearing pin.
5. Fix the brake hose with adhesive pads on the swing fork.
6. Position wheel, insert axle.
7. Install the chain (see above), adjust the chain slack.
8. Screw the rear wheelan tight.
9. Inspect the wheel track, adjust if necessary.
10. Mount the pinion cover.
11. Activate the foot brake lever until braking action occurs.

Tightening torque:
Axle nuts: 100+10 Nm
Shock absorber: 40+5 Nm
Swing bearing pin: 100+ 10 Nm

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 Notes

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 Brakes Front

4 Brakes and Wheels

4.1 Brakes Front

Hazard!
Ineffectual or faulty brake systems put lives at risk.
Improper work can impair the functioning of the brake
system, thereby reducing the safety of the vehicle in
traffic.
Perform all work attentively and responsibly, based on
this repair manual.

The front brake is designed as a hydraulic disc brake with a two-

piston floating caliper.

(1) Sliding pin

(2) Seal collar
(3) Air bleeding screw
(4) Banjo bolt M4x10
(5) Piston
(6) Brake disc 0 280 mm
(7) Tension bracket
(8) Brake pad
(9) Piston with compression spring
(10) Hermetic bellows
(11) Main brake cylinder
(12) Front brake light switch

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niilO?
 Brakes Front

4.1.1 Front Wheel Brake Adjustment

The adjusting screw (1) (hexagon socket 3 mm) is used to adjust
the pressure point of the front wheel brake:
1. Loosen the locknut (2) for the adjusting screw (1).

Attention!
The equalisation hole (3) is covered by the seal ring
(4), if the adjusting screw (1) is screwed too far in. For
this reason the brakes may be blocked, as the brake
piston in the brake caliper cannot move far enough
back.
Only set the adjusting screw (1) far enough that the
distance (L) between the seal ring (4) and the centre of
the equalisation hole (3) is not larger than 1.5 to 2 mm
(see also the position of the brake piston (5».

2. Open the storage tank.

3. Turn the adjusting screw (1) to the right until brake fluid no
longer escapes from the equalisation hole (3) when the
brake lever is operated (no motion can be detected on the
surface of the liquid).
4. Turn the adjusting screw (1) approximately one to two turns
to the left and secure it with the locknut (2).

Attention!
The brake fluid may spray out.
Carefully operate the brake lever while opening the
storage tank.
When in place, the entire threading of the locknut (2)
must be in contact with the adjusting screw.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.2 Brake Fluid

Attention!
If insufficient brake fluid is present, air can enter the
braking system, reducing the braking performance.
Always check the fluid level when ventilating the
brakes. Add brake fluid - DOT 4 recommended - if
necessary.
Always use the same type of brake fluid. Never mix
different types of brake fluid!
Do not use dirty or old brake fluid.
Change the brake fluid every two years.

Inspection
The main brake cylinder (1) is located on the left next to the hand
1 2 brake lever.
Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
When the main brake cylinder is horizontal, the brake fluid
level may not fall below the marking on the round inspection
window (2)!

Adding fluid
1. Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
2. Unscrew the two screws from the main brake cylinder cap.
3. Remove the cap (1), bolster plate (2) and hermetic
bellows (3).
4. Inspect the hermetic bellows, replace if damaged.
5. Fill the main brake cylinder with brake fluid up to the top
edge of the inspection window.
6. Position the cap, bolster plate and hermetic bellows, tighten
the screws evenly.

Tightening torque:
Cap screws: 1+0 ,5 Nm

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 Brakes Front

Replacing
The brake fluid must be changed at least every two years. Old
brake fluid tends to form bUbbles under high stress (long
descents/frequent braking), resulting in a significant reduction in
braking performance and riding safety.

Attention!
Brake fluid is aggressive and poisonous.
Avoid contact with skin.
Do not pour onto paint, plastic or rubber surfaces.
Immediately wipe up spilled brake fluid.
Always cover sensitive components with a rag while
working on the brake system.
Only use new DOT4 brake fluid.
Do not mix different kinds.
Brake fluid absorbs water from the air.
For this reason, only store brake fluid in closed
containers.
Use a filling device to change the brake fluid - follow the manu-
facturer

1. Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
.2. Remove the dust cap from the air bleeding screw.
3. Place a ring spanner and transparent hose on the air blee-
ding screw.
4. Place the other end of the hose in a suitable container.
5. Screw off the main brake cylinder cap.
6. Open the air bieeding screw.
7. Pump all of the brake fluid into the container by operating
the brake lever.
While doing so, constantly add new brake fluid.

Note:
New brake fluid is lighter in colour than used. Watch the brake
fluid being pumped out. When it becomes light, the old brake fluid i
has been completely replaced by the new fluid. i

8. Close the air bleeding screw.

9. Add new brake fluid up to the marking on the brake fluid
tank.
10. Position the bellows and seal, close the cap of the main
brake cylinder.
11. Function test.
If the lever play is larger than 30 mm, bleed the brake
system.

Environment:
Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.3 Bleeding the Brake System

Use a bleeding device to bleed the brake system - follow the
manufacturer's instructions:

1. Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
2. Unscrew the main brake cylinder, add new brake fluid up to
the top edge of the inspection window.
3. Position the hermetic bellows, bolster plate and cap.
4. Remove the dust cap.
5. Place a ring spanner and transparent hose onto the air blee-
ding screw, place the other end of the hose in a suitable
container filled with brake fluid.
6. Open the air bleeding screw, work the brake lever once and
stop.
7. Close the air bleeding screw.
8. Let go of the brake lever, pump several times (1 Ox), hold the
lever down.
9. Open the air bleeding screw.
Old brake fluid and air escape.
10. Close the air bleeding screw.
11. Repeat the process until the escaping brake fluid has no
bubbles.
12. Remove the ring spanner and hose, return the dust cap.
13. Add new brake fluid up to the marking on the inspection
window.
14. Perform function test.

Note:
Always make certain that sufficient brake fluid is present in the
main brake cylinder.
Add brake fluid, if necessary.

Environment:
Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.4 Main Brake Cylinder

Removal
1. Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
2. Unscrew the two screws on the cap.
3. Remove the cap(1), bolster plate (2) and hermetic
bellows (3).

4. Suck the brake fluid out of the storage tank (e.g. with a
syringe).
5. Press the brake caliper toward the middle of the vehicle
against the brake disc, pressing back the pistons of the
brake caliper.
6. Once again suck out the brake fluid.
7. Operate the brake lever two or three times to empty the
piston chamber.
8. Place cleaning paper under the main brake cylinder.
9. Unscrew the banjo bolt, remove the brake hose and the two
seals.
The brake hose remains attached to the clamp head.

10. Unscrew the two screws of the mounting clamp.

11. Remove the main brake cylinder.

Installation

Note:
Always use new seal rings for the brake hose.
Grease and install the brake lever, adjusting screw and two
screws of the clamp shell.

Install in reverse order.

Add brake fluid, bleed (see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
Perform function test.

Tightening torque:
Banjo bolt: 20+2 Nm
Two M6 screws (handlebar shell): 6+ 1 Nm

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 Brakes Front

4.1.5 Inspection Window

Removal
1. Position the vehicle such that the main brake cylinder sits
horizontally.
2. Open the main brake cylinder cap.
3. Suck out the brake fluid until the level is under the lower
edge of the inspection window (e.g. with a suitable syringe).
4. Lift out the clasp with a screw driver.
5. Press out the inspection window along with the seal ring.
6. Replace the seal ring and/or glass.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
The MIN mark must be parallel to the cap seal surface.
Add brake fluid, bleed (see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
Perform function test.

4.1.6 Replacing the Seal Set

Rubber components must be replaced by new parts in case of
damage or cracking or, in general, every 4 years.

1. Drain the main brake cylinder.

2. Remove the seal collar (1).
3. Remove the piston (4).
4. Replace the seal rings (2) and (3).
5. Clean all parts with brake cleaner.
6. Moisten new parts with brake fluid and insert them into the
main brake cylinder.
Do not use grease!

Hazard!
Accident risk!
The seal lip ofthe seal collar (1) mustface inward when
installed. Otherwise no braking pressure can be estab-
lished and the brake does not function.
7. Insert spring.
8. Press in the piston.
9. Slide on the seal collar.
10. Add brake fluid, bleed
(see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
11. Perform function test.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.7 Entire Brake Caliper

The front and rear brake calipers have an identical design.
The front brake caliper has a mirror-inverted design as compared
to the rear brake caliper.

(1) Locking washer 8x13.5 (Nordlock)

(2) Screw M8x30
(3) Brake caliper
(4) Air bleeding screw
(5) Banjo bolt M10 x 1.25
(6) Seal ring
(7) Brake hose

Removal
1. Press the brake caliper (3) toward the middle of the vehicle
against the brake disc, pressing back the pistons of the
brake caliper.

2. Unscrew the banjo· bolt (5).

3. Remove the two seal rings (6).
4. Place the banjo bolt on cleaning paper.
5. Wrap cleaning paper around the brake hose.
6 Elevate the opening of the brake hose, fasten it to the
frame, if necessary.
This prevents the brake hose from draining. It simplifies the
bleeding process.

7. Unscrew the two cylinder screws (5) with Nordlock washers

(6) from the sliding pipe.
8. Remove the adapter plate (7) with the brake caliper.

Installation
1. Place the brake caliper onto the brake disc.
2. Screw the adapter plate and brake caliper onto the sliding
pipe with the cylinder screws, inserting the Nordlock
washers (with the corrugated side toward the adapter
plate).
3. Screw the brake hose tightly to the brake caliper with the
banjo bolt and new seal rings.
4. Bleeding (see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
5. Perform function test.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.8 Brake Pads

Inspection

Attention!
Reduced braking performance!
The thickness of the brake pads must never be less
than (B)= 2.0 mm.
If the thickness is insufficient, the brake discs may be
damaged.

The brake pads (1) have wear marks (2).

Ifthese wear marks are no longer visible, the brake pads must be
replaced.
Always replace the brake pads in pairs.

Removal
1. Unscrew the mounting pins (1).
2. Remove both brake pads (2).
3. Pull out the tension bracket (3) .

Installation

Note:
The brake pad lining seats can be treated with copper paste or
brake protector. This prevents the brake pads from squeaking.
The tension bracket must be positioned under the mount pins.

1. Insert the tension bracket (3).

The wide sliding side must face toward the pistons.
2. Insert new brake pads (2).
3. Slide in the mounting pins (1) and screw them tight.

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 Brakes Front

4.1.9 Brake Caliper/Components

Removal
1. Remove the brake caliper
(see 4.1.7 "Entire Brake Caliper").
2. Clean the brake fluid from the brake caliper (e.g. with brake
cleaner).
3. Remove the brake pads (see 4.1.8 "Brake Pads").

Attention!
Be careful of high pressure!
Always wear protective goggles.
The pistons may "shoot out" with significant velocity.

4. Press out the pistons by applying compressed air to the

connection hole.

5. Replace the seal rings in the brake caliper.

Moisten the rings with brake fluid.

Installation
Inspect the pistons and sliding pins for damage, corrosion, etc.
Inspect the seal collars.
Rubber components must be replaced by new parts in case of
damage or cracking or, in general, every 4 years.
1. Insert pistons.
2. Lightly grease the sliding pins, install them into the brake
caliper along with the adapter plate.
3. Pull the large and small seal collars exactly over the sliding
pins.
The slide covers must snap into the groove on the sliding
pin
4. Install the brake pads (see 4.1.8 "Brake Pads").
5. Install the adapter plate with brake caliper
(see 4.1.7 "Entire Brake Caliper").

Tightening torque:
Brake pad screws, pin: 8+2 Nm
Caliper screws: 25+5 Nm

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 4.1.10 Brake Hose

Attention!
Accident risk!
Immediately replace defective brake hoses!
In general, replace brake hoses every four years.

Removal
1. Unscrew the banjo bolt from the main brake cylinder
2. Remove the seal rings.
3. Drain the brake fluid from the brake hose into a suitable
container.

4. Unscrew the banjo bolt from the brake caliper.

5. Remove seals.
6. Remove brake hose.

Inspection
Inspect the brake hose for:
damage
poor seal
kinks
crimps
Installation

Note:
Always use new seal rings!

Install in reverse order

Add brake fluid.
Bleed brakes (see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
Perform function test

Tightening torque:
Banjo bolt: 20+2 Nm

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125 SXlSM Reoair Manual 05/02 81
 / '~
[i'fF1
j _ Front Wheel

~ 4.2
Front Wheel

(1) Axle dometer drive

(2) Spee.
(3) Seal nng

(4) Dog . DIN 625-6204-2RS

(5) Ball beanng 21
(6) Rim strap 25x
(7) Rim
(8) Spokes

sleev~IN 625-6204-2RS
9) \/\/heel hub
(1(0) Spacer
(11) Ball beanng
(12) Tyres
(13) Air tube.
(14) Brake disc
) Washer
(15
(16) M14x1 .5 nut

82
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 ujf1 Front Wheel

4.2.1 Replacing the Front Wheel

Removal

Attention!
The vehicle may fall over.
Properly secure the vehicle on the installation stand
before beginning work.
When using tension belts, be careful not to damage
the paint.

The front wheel must be free of load.

1. Screw off the axle nut.

00'1
2. Loosen both locking screws.

3. Open the left locking screw.

4. Pull out the axle to the right side, holding the wheel in its
installed position.
5. Remove the speedometer drive.
6. Remove the brake disc from the brake caliper.
7. Remove the wheel.

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 Front Wheel

Installation
(For positions, see 4.2 "Front lMleel")

1. Place the front wheel between the fork spars, approximately

in its installation position.
Slide the brake disc into the brake caliper.
2. Place the speedometer drive (13) onto the dog (9) in the
wheel.
The speedometer drive must be aligned parallel to the fork
spar.
3. Slide the greased axle (15) far enough from the right fork
spar that it is flush against the left bearing.
4. Insert the spacer sleeves (1).
5. Lift on the front wheel.
6. Slide the axle through the left fork spar.
7. Tighten the right locking screws.
8. Screw on the axle nut and tighten.
9. Loosen right locking screw.
10. lMlen the parking brake is pulled, push the telescopic fork
the whole way through several times.
11. Tighten all three locking screws.

Tightening torque:
Axle nuts: 60+5 Nm
Locking screws: 25+5 Nm

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 4.2.2 Front Brake Disc
Removal
The brake disc is bolted to the wheel hub of the front wheel.
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Loosen six oval flange head screws, remove the brake disc.
It is useful to heat the screws to approx. 80°... 100 °C using
a hot-air blower. This breaks the safety effect of the micro-
encapsulation.

Inspection
The minimum permissible thickness of the brake disk is shown on
the impression.
1. Measure thickness.
Minimum thickness: 3.5 mm.
2. Check that the brake disc is level using a straight-edge.
Maximum deviation: 0.05...0.08 mm.
3. Check that it is parallel.
Maximum deviation: 0.03 mm.
4. Check the eccentricity (mounted on hub, with new bearings
installed in the swingarm, measured on outside diameter):
Maximum deviation: 0.25 mm.

Note:
With an eccentricity of 0.1 mm, it is permissible to unscrew the
brake disc from the hub to achieve a reduction in the measure-
ment value by twisting the brake disc and reinstalling it.
If this does not have the desired result, the brake disc must be
replaced.

Installation
1. Place the brake disc on the adapter with the proper orienta-
tion (arrow).
2. Turn the disc one turn with pressure against the adapter to
ensure a flat seat.
3. Apply screw locking agent to the screws.
4. Tighten the screws in a crosswise manner.
5. Wipe off excess screw locking agent.
6. Clean the disc with brake cleaner.
7. Install the front wheel.

Tightening torque:
Tallow-drop screws: 10+2 Nm

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 I.J.JL 1 Front Wheel

4.2.3 Wheel Bearing

Two deep groove ball bearings DIN 635-6204-2RS serve as the
wheel bearing.
Removal
1. Remove the front wheel.
2. Remove the seal ring (3) and dog (4) for the speedometer
drive.
3. Carefully pound out the left and right bearing and spacer
sleeve using a spike.

Inspection
1. Inspect the bearing play of the wheel bearing (1).
f t .' /
(.i1 / ;::::;::::",
//0
7
_'" 2. Measure the length of the spacer sleeve (2).
minimum length: 65.5 mm.

i.. \\y!
. '.. ".'. j.. // /i!."'iJ././1'
,0,,
y'c'J
,i/i/ 1?\2
~~
.\iVLL,!4:t:r;;:;:f ~ /(1)
"":~;~~~~~:~:~~~~;::;:/ ~

Note:
Should the wheel bearing have too much play, the wheel bear-
ings must be replaced.
If the spacer sleeve (2) length is less than 65.5 mm, it must be
replaced.
Otherwise the wheel bearings may be damaged.

Attention!
Possible burns!
Never touch the air outlet of the hot air pistol!
This becomes very hot during operation.
Do not direct the hot air pistol at flammable or heat-
sensitive materials.

Installation
1. Heat both wheel bearing seats with a hot air pistol before
installation.
2. Install the left wheel bearing.
3. Slide the spacer sleeve in from the right.
4. Install the right wheel bearing.
5. Insert the dog for the speedometer drive and a new seal
ring.
6. Install the front wheel.

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 I.J,jJ= 1 Front Wheel

4.2.4 Speedometer Drive

The speedometer drive cannot be repaired, it can only be
replaced.
Removal

Attention!
The brake disc can damage the paint on the fork spars.
Make certain that the brake disc does not touch the
fork spars. A cleaning rag should be placed between
them.

1. Screw off the speedometer shaft (1).

2. Remove the front wheel
(see 4.2.1 "Replacing the Front Wheel").

3. Remove the seal ring and dog from the wheel hub.

Inspection
Check the teeth for completeness and wear,
• Check the seal ring for wear,
• Check the dog for wear.
Replace defective components.
Installation
1. Insert the dog and seal ring into the wheel hub.
2. Lubricate the speedometer drive.
3. Install the front wheel and speedometer drive
(see 4.2.1 "Replacing the Front Wheel").
4. Screw on the speedometer shaft.

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 i.J..JL J Rear Brake

4.3 Rear Brake

Hazard!
Risk of death!
Ineffectual or faulty brake systems put lives at risk!
Improper work can impair the functioning of the brake
system, thereby reducing the safety of the vehicle in
traffic. Perform all work attentively and responsibly,
based on this repair manual.

The rear brake is designed as a hydraulic disc brake with a two-

piston floating caliper.

(1) Storage Tank

(2) Brake light switch
(3) Main brake cylinder, diameter 13 mm
(4) Eccentric disc
(5) Pressure rod L 55 mm
(6) Brake lever
(7) Reset spring for brake lever
(8) Cap screw
(9) Retaining bolt
(10) Air bleeding screw
(11 ) Seal collar
(12) Sliding pin
(13) Tension bracket
(14) Banjo bolt M4x10
(15) Piston
(16) Brake pad
(17) Rear brake disc, diameter 220 mm

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 !.J':;f 1 Rear Brake

4.3.1 Brake Fluid

Attention!
If insufficient brake fluid is present, air can enter the
braking system, reducing the braking performance.
Always check the fluid level when ventilating the
brakes. Add brake fluid - DOT 4 recommended· if
necessary.
Always use the same type of brake fluid. Never mix
different types of brake fluid!
Do not use dirty or old brake fluid.
Change the brake fluid every two years.

The storage tank is located on the right underneath the seat on

the intake muffler.
Inspection
Position the vehicle such that the storage tank sits horizontally.
The brake fluid level must be between the MAX and MIN
markings, never lower!

Adding fluid

Attention!
Brake fluid is aggressive and poisonous!
Avoid contact with skin.
Do not pour onto paint, plastic or rubber surfaces.
Immediately wipe up spilled brake fluid.
Always cover sensitive components with a rag while
working on the brake system.
Only use new DOT4 brake fluid.
Do not mix different kinds.
Brake fluid absorbs water from the air.
For this reason, only store brake fluid in closed
containers.

1. Position the vehicle such that the storage tank sits horizon-
tally.
2. Screw off the cap of the storage tank.
3. Remove the hermetic bellows.
Inspect the hermetic bellows, replace if damaged.
4. Fill the storage tank up to the MAX mark with brake fluid.
5. Position the hermetic bellows, screw on the cap.

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 Rear Brake

Replacing
The brake fluid must be changed at least every two years. Old
brake fluid tends to form bubbles under high stress (long
descents/frequent braking), resulting in a significant reduction in
braking performance and riding safety.

Environment:
Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

Use a filling device to change the brake fluid - follow the manu-
facturer's instructions:

1. Position the vehicle horizontally.

2. Remove the dust cap from the air bleeding screw.
3. Place a ring spanner and transparent hose on the air blee-
ding screw.
4. Place the other end of the hose in a suitable container.
5. Screw off the storage tank cap.
6. Remove the hermetic bellows.
7. Open the air bleeding screw.
8. Pump all of the brake fluid into the container by operating
the brake lever.
While doing so, constantly add new brake fluid.

Note:
New brake fluid is lighter in colour than used. Watch the brake
fluid being pumped out. When it becomes light, the old brake fluid
has been completely replaced by the new fluid.

9. Close the air bleeding screw.

10. Add new brake fluid up to the MAX marking on the storage
tank.
11. Position the hermetic bellows.
12. Screw on the storage tank cap.
13. Bleed brake.
14. Perform function test.

Environment:
Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

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 l.J,.:.;.r 1 Rear Brake

4.3.2 Bleeding the Brake System

Use a bleeding device to bleed the brake
- follow the manufacturer's instructions or do as follows:

1. Position the vehicle horizontally.

2. Unscrew the cap on the storage tank, add brake fluid up to
the MAX marking of the storage tank.
3. Screw the cap onto the storage tank.
4. Remove the dust cap from the air bleeding screw.
5. Place a ring spanner and transparent hose onto the air blee-
ding screw, place the other end of the hose in a suitable
container filled with brake fluid.
6. Open the air bleeding screw, work the brake lever once and
stop.
7. Close the air bleeding screw.
8. Let go of the brake lever, pump several times (10x), hold the
lever down.
9. Open the air bleeding screw.
Old brake fluid and air escape.
10. Close the air bleeding screw.
11. Repeat the process until the escaping brake fluid has no
bubbles.
12. Remove the ring spanner and hose, return the dust cap.
13. Check the fluid level, add brake fluid up to the MAX marking
of the storage tank, if necessary.
14. Perform function test.

Note:
Always make certain that sufficient brake fluid is present in the
storage tank.
Add brake fluid, if necessary.

Environment:
Properly dispose of used brake fluid.

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 UJ_C j Rear Brake

4.3.3 Storage Tank

Removal
1. Position the vehicle horizontally.
2. Screw off the cap (1), remove the hermetic bellows and
inspect.
3. Suck the brake fluid out of the storage tank
(e.g. with suitable syringe).
4. Open the clamp (2) with a small screw driver.
5. Pull off the, inspect, replace if necessary
(see 4.3.4 "Hose").
6. Unscrew the screw (3), remove the storage tank.
Installation
Install in reverse order.
1. Add brake fluid. Bleed the brake system
(see 4.3.2 "Bleeding the Brake System").
2. Perform function test.

Tightening torque:
Screw: 2+ 1 Nm

4.3.4 Hose
Removal
1. Unscrew the cover plate of the main brake cylinder.
2. Open the cable binder (1).
3. Unscrew the storage tank.
4. Screw off the storage tank cap.
c::
..J.
0 ..........,..,,_ "ho. hor...... ""'t-;,.. holl 'A'c.
"vIIIVV"'- ~II'" Ilv'II'v\OV ...... " ,,"v.

6. Completely drain the brake fluid out of the storage tank and
hose into a suitable container.
7. Open the hose clamps (2), remove the hose (3).
Installation
Inspect the components for damage, particularly the hose.
1. Connect the hose to the main brake cylinder and storage
tank, close clamps.
Undamaged clamps can be used again.

Attention!
Reduction in the hose cross-section leads to reduced
braking performance.
Do not bind the cable binder too tightly.

2. Position the new cable binder around the hose and main
brake cylinder and close it.
3. Fill the storage tank.
4. Squeeze the hose hard 5-10 times.
Air rises upward, followed by brake fluid.
5. Completely bleed the brake system (see 4.3.2 "Bleeding the
Brake System"), perform a function test.

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 !.J,j...C 1 Rear Brake

4.3.5 Brake Hose

Attention!
Accident risk!
Immediately replace defective brake hoses!
In general, replace brake hoses every four years.

Removal
1. Unscrew the storage tank.
2. Open the cable binder and let the storage tank hang down.
The brake fluid level must be under the level of the main
brake cylinder.
3. Push back the rubber cap of the brake light switch (1),
disconnect the contact.
4. Screw off the brake light switch, remove the seal rings.

Note:
Place cleaning paper around the main brake cylinder before
screwing off the brake light switch to soak up any brake fiuid that
might fiow out.
The openings of the brake hose must always point upward.

5. Remove the banjo bolt (4) and seals from the brake caliper.
6. Let the hose drain into a suitable container.
7. Press the brake hose out of the adhesive pads (2)
Inspection
Inspect all parts for damage, poor seal, kinks, crushed points,
etc. and replace, if necessary.
Installation
1. Screw the brake hose (3) tightly to the rear brake caliper
with the banjo bolt and new seal rings.
2. Press the brake hose into the adhesive pads (2).
3. Screw the brake hose tightly to the main brake cylinder with
the banjo bolt (4) and new seal rings.
4. Connect the plug contacts, slide the rubber cap (1) over.
5. Screw on the storage tank, close the cable binder.
6. Completely bleed the brake system (see 4.3.2 "Bleeding the
Brake System"), perform a function test.

Tightening torque:
Banjo bolt:
Brake light switch:

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 UJI J Rear Brake

4.3.6 Adhesive Pads

Adhesive pads fix the rear brake hose to the rocker arm.
Defective adhesive pads must be replaced.

1. Degrease the bonding points before bonding.

2. Pull off the protective foil.
3. Place the open side (a) of the adhesive pads outwards as
shown in the figure.
Observe the dimensions
4. Press on the adhesive pads
a
4.3.7 Brake Caliper
Removal
1. Screw off the banjo bolt, remove the two seal rings.
2. Wrap cleaning paper around the brake hose and banjo bolt.
3. Elevate the opening of the brake hose, fasten it to the
frame, if necessary.
This prevents the brake hose from draining. Doing so
simplifies the bleeding process.

4. Unscrew the two screws.

5. Remove the brake caliper from the adapter plate.

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 !.Jjj= 1 Rear Brake

4.3.8 Brake Caliper/Components

Removal
1. Remove the brake caliper.
2. Clean the brake fluid from the brake caliper (e.g. with brake
cleaner).
3. Remove the brake pads (see 4.3.9 "Brake Pads").

Attention!
Be careful of high pressure!
Always wear protective goggles.
The pistons may "shoot out" with significant velocity.

4. Press out the pistons by applying compressed air to the

connection hole.

5. Replace the seal rings in the brake caliper.

Moisten the rings with brake fluid.

Installation
Inspect the pistons and sliding pins for damage, corrosion, etc.
Inspect the seal collars.
Rubber components must be replaced by new parts in case of
damage or cracking or, in general, every 4 years.
1. Insert pistons.
2. Lightly grease the sliding pins, install them into the brake
caliper along with the adapter plate.
3. Pull the large and small seal collars exactly over the sliding
pins.
The slide covers must snap into the groove on the sliding
pin
4. Install the brake pads (see 4.1.8 "Brake Pads").
5. Install the adapter plate with brake caliper
(see 4.1.7 "Entire Brake Caliper").

Tightening torque:
Brake pad screws, pin: 8+2 Nm
Caliper screws: 25+1 Nm
Sealing plugs: 5+ 1 Nm

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 I.JJ..C 1 Rear Brake

4.3.9 Brake Pads

Inspection

Attention!
Reduced braking performance cause the risk of acci-
dent!
The thickness of the brake pads must never be less
than. (B)= 2.0 mm.
If the thickness is insufficient, the brake discs may be
damaged.

The brake pads (1) have wear marks (2).

If these wear marks are no longer visible, the brake pads must be
replaced.
Always replace the brake pads in pairs.

Removal
1. Unscrew the cap screws (1).
2. Unscrew the mounting pins (2).
3. Pull the defective brake pads (4) out off the brake
caliper (3).
4. Remove the tension bracket (5).

Installation

Note:
The brake pad lining seats can be treated with copper paste or
brake protector. This prevents the brake pads from squeaking.
The tension bracket must be positioned under the mount pins. (

1. Insert the tension bracket (5).

The wide sliding side must face toward the pistons.
2. Insert new brake pads (4) into the brake caliper (3).
3. Slide in the mounting pins (2) and screw them tight.
4. Screw the cap screws (1) into the mounting pins.

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 Rear Brake

4.3.10 Brake Lever

Removal
1. Remove the friction spring from the pin (1) of the pressure
rod (2) pull it out of the fork head and brake lever.
2. Remove the pressure rod.

3. Unscrew the screw, holding the nut still.

4. Pull the brake lever and spring out of the frame.

Installation
1. Inspect the O-rings (7) on the bearing pins (2) of the brake
lever (6), replace if necessary.
2. Grease the bearing pins.
3. Latch the spring (3) in the brake lever and slide it onto the
pin.
4. Slide the cylinder screw (1) through the bearing pins.
5. Insert the bearing pins into the frame. In doing so, insert the
spring into the corresponding hole in the frame and use
force to lift it onto the spring hanger.
6. Insert the washer (4) and screw on the nut (5).
7. Adjust the play (A) of the break lever.

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 U.:.JL1 Rear Brake

Adjusting the rear wheel brake

Attention!
Accident risk!
There must be at least clearance of 1 mm between the
eccentric disc (9) and the brake lever (6).

The position of the foot brake lever with respect to the foot rest
can be adjusted with the eccentric disc (9).
After re-adjusting the foot brake pedal, adjust a clearance of
=
(A) 1...1.5 mm using the adjusting nut (8) at the pressure rod.

This results in a clearance of (B) approx. 1...1.5 mm between

the end of the pressure rod (12) and the face of the piston (11).

If this adjustment is not made, there is a risk that the equalisation

hole (10) may remain blocked.
The brake fiuid can no longer fiow back. The brake pressure is
maintained, the brake system overheats and the wheel may jam!
Damage to the brake system and higher risk of accidents results.

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 Rear Brake

4.3.11 Rear Brake Light Switch

Removal
1. Unscrew the storage tank.
2. Open the cable binder and let the storage tank hang down.
The brake fluid level must be under the level of the main
brake cylinder.
3. Slide back the rubber cap (2).
4. Disconnect the plug contacts.
5. Place cleaning paper around the main brake cylinder to
soak up any brake fluid which may flow out.
6. Unscrew the brake light switch (1), remove the seal
rings (3).
The brake hose must always point upward.

Testing
The brake light switch can only be tested while installed and with
a functional brake system.
Use a voltmeter set to the 20V range for measuring.
1. Switch on the ignition.
The 12V vehicle power supply is on the red/black cable
against the ground.
2. Operate the foot brake lever.
3. Test the voltage on the black cable.
- 12 V: Switch OK.
- 0 V: Voltage: Switch defective, replace.
Installation
Always use new seal rings.
Inspect the seal surfaces on the hose, main brake cylinder and
switch.
Rubber components must be replaced by new parts in case of
damage or cracking or, in general, every 4 years.
1. Screw the brake hose with the brake light switch and new
seal rings onto the main brake cylinder.
2. Connect the plug contacts, slide the rubber cap over.
3. Bleed the brake system.
4. Perform function test.

Tightening torque:
Brake light switch: 20+2,5 Nm

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 Rear Brake

4.3.12 Main Brake Cylinder

Removal
1. Unscrew the brake light switch (6), remove the brake hose
and seal rings.
2. Remove the cable binder (3), screw off the storage tank (1)
and hold it downward.
3. Open the clamp (2), pull out the hose with the storage tank.
4. Pour the brake fluid into a suitable container, lay the storage
tank on its cover.
5. Unscrew the two screws, remove the cover plate (4).
6. Pull the main brake cylinder (5) away from the pressure pins
of the brake lever.
Installation
1. Slide the main brake cylinder onto greased pressure pins.
2. Fasten the main brake cylinder to the frame with the cover
plate and both screws.
3. Mount the hose with the storage tank and fluid.
4. Close the clamp. Undamaged clamps can be reused.
5. Bleed the system (see 4.1.3 "Bleeding the Brake System").
6. Perform function test.

Tightening torque:
M6 screws: 10+2 Nm

4.3.13 Seal Set

Replacing
Rubber components must be replaced by new parts in case of
damage or cracking or, in general, every 4 years.

1. Drain the main brake cylinder.

2. Remove the seal collar (1)
3. Remove the locking ring (2) underneath.
4. Remove the piston (3), replace the seal rings (4) .
5. Clean all parts with brake cleaner.
6. Moisten new parts with brake fluid and insert them into the
main brake cylinder.
7. Insert the spring, press in the piston and install the retaining
ring.

Hazard!
Accident risk!
The seal lip of the seal collar must face inward when
installed. Otherwise no braking pressure will be estab-
lished and the brake does not function.

8. Slide on the seal collar.

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 Rear Wheel

4.4 Rear Wheel

'C',

(1) Axle
(2) Axle washer
(3) M6x16 screws
(4) Rear brake disc
(5) Rim strap
(6) Reducing bush
(7) Deep groove ball bearing DIN 625-6204-7RS
(8) Rim
(9) Spokes
(10) Balancing piece
(11) Wheel hub, complete
(12) Spacer sleeve
(13) Ball bearing, dog side DIN 625-6204-2RS
(14) Dog rubber piece
(15) Inner reducing bush
(16) Tyres
(17) M8 hexagon nuts
(18) Dog
(19) Chain plate SX=52 teeth, SM=49 teeth
(20) M8x45 cylinder screws
(21) Spacer sleeve
(22) Outer reducing bush
(23) Hexagon nut M16x1.5

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 U.J.[ ., Rear Wheel

4.4.1 Replacing the Rear Wheel

Removal

Attention!
The vehicle may fall over!
Properly secure the vehicle on the installation stand
before beginning work.
Be careful not to damage the paint when using tension
belts.

1. Unload the rear wheel.

Note:
Do not operate the foot brake lever.

2. Screw off the left axle nut.

3. Pull the axle out halfway to the right.

4. Remove the chain.
5. Pull the axle out completely.
6. Remove the adapter plate with the brake caliper for the
counter-bearing.
7. Carefully pull out the wheel to the rear.

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 !..J5..C1 Rear Wheel

Installation
1. Place the rear wheel between the swingarms.
2. Mount the chain.
3. Slide the axle into the chain adjuster from the right.
4. Insert the adapter plate.
5. Slide the axle through the adapter plate and wheel, screw
on the axle nut.
6. Adjust the chain slack
(see 4.5.2 "Adjusting the Chain Slack").
The cover plate of the chain adjuster must sit tight against
the swingarm on both sides.

Note:
Place a 4 mm spike between chain and chain plate.
Turn the wheel a Y. to % turn so that the cover plate of the chain
adjuster sits tight against the swingarms.
Important!
Do not apply force. Otherwise the chain/chain plate may get
damaged.

7. Tighten the axle nut, observe the specified torque.

8. Inspect the wheel tracking.
9. Expand the brake pads.
10. Install the brake caliper over the brake disc.
11. Observe the specified torque and use screw locking agent.
12. Operate the foot brake lever until the you feel the pressure
point and the braking effect sets in.
13. Test the smooth rotation of the wheel.

Tightening torque:
Axle nuts: 100+10 Nm

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 LJ.J..r 1 Rear Wheel

4.4.2 Chain Plate and Dog

The chain plate is screwed with the dog.

(1) Inner reducing bush

(2) Dog rubber piece
(3) Dog
(4) Chain plate

Removal
1. Remove the rear wheel (see 4.4 "Rear Wheel").
2. Unscrew the five hexagon head screws.
3. Remove the chain plate
4. Remove and inspect the dog and dog rubber piece.
The rubber piece must not be porous, damaged or cracked.
Replace a defective rubber piece.
5. Remove the screws and self-tightening nuts.

Installation
1. Install a new chain plate with new nuts to the dog.
2. Insert the dog rubber piece into the wheel.
Spray the dog with silicon spray to ease the installation.
3. Insert the dog with the chain plate.
4. I\.~ount the whee!
(see 4.4.1 "Replacing the Rear Wheel").

Tightening torque:
Chain plate mount: 30+ 5 Nm

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 !.J.:.tL 1 Rear Wheel

4.4.3 Wheel Bearing

Inspect the bearing play of the wheel bearing.
Should the wheel bearing have too much play or the wheel no
longer runs smoothly, the wheel bearings must be replaced.
Two deep groove ball bearings DIN 635-6204-2RS serve as the
wheel bearing.
Removal
1. Remove the rear real
(see 4.4.1 "Replacing the Rear Wheel").
2. Remove the chain plate
(see 4.4.2 "Chain Plate and Dog").
3. Remove the right side reducing bush.
To do this, pound carefully and evenly on the circumference
of the reducing bush with a spike from the left side of the
wheel.
4. Remove the left side reducing bush.
5. Carefully pound out the left and right bearing and spacer
sleeve using a spike.

Installation
1. Measure the spacer sleeve: minimum 110 mm, replace if
necessary.

Note:
If it is shorter than 110 mm, the spacer sleeve must be replaced.
Otherwise the wheel bearings may be damaged.

Attention!
Possible burns!
Never touch the air outlet of the hot air pistol!
This becomes very hot during operation.
Do not direct the hot air pistol at flammable or heat-
sensitive materials.

2. Heat both wheel bearing seats with a hot air pistol before
installation.
3. Install the left wheel bearing (chain side).
4. Slide the spacer sleeve in from the right.
The centring ring points toward the brake disc side.
5. Install the right wheel bearing and the reducing sleeves on
both sides.
6. Install the rear wheel.

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 LLjL 1 Rear Wheel

4.4.4 Brake Disc

Removal
1. Remove the rear wheel
(see 4.4.1 "Replacing the Rear Wheel").
2. Unscrew the six Torx screws, remove the brake disc.
If necessary, heat the aluminium to approx. 80" - 100 "C
using a hot air pistol.

Inspection
1. Inspect the thickness
Minimum thickness: min. 3.5 mm.
If the thickness is less than 3.5 mm, the brake disc must
be replaced.

2. Check that the brake disc is level using a straight-edge.

Maximum deviation: 0.05...0.08 mm.
3. Check that it is parallel.
Maximum deviation: 0.03 mm.
4. Check the eccentricity (mounted on hub, with new bearings
installed in the swingarm, measured on outside0).
Maximum deviation: 0.25 mm.

Note:
With an eccentricity of more than 0.1 mm, it is permissible to
unscrew the brake disc from the hub to achieve a reduction in the
measurement value by twisting the brake disc and reinstalling it.
If this does not have the desired result, the brake disc must be
replaced.

Installation
1. Position the brake disc.
The arrow must point in the direction of travel.
2. Apply screw locking agent to the screws and screw them in.
3. Tighten the screws in a crosswise manner.
4. Wipe off excess screw locking agent.
5. Clean the disc with brake cleaner.
6. Install the rear wheel
(see 4.4.1 "Replacing the Rear Wheel").

Tightening torque:
Tallow-drop screw: 10+2 Nm

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 !.J.:.tL1 Chain

4.5 Chain
chain (428) 1/2"x5/16"- 134 links (SX)
- 132 links (SM)
Closing link 1/2"x5/16"

4.5.1 Chain Maintenance

Regular chain maintenance significantly lengthens its service life.
Make certain the chain is clean, lubricated and has the correct
slack.
Clean the chain with large amounts of water with no pressure.
Treat it with O-ring chain spray.

4.5.2 Adjusting the Chain Slack

Attention!
Incorrect chain slack overloads the engine and other
important components!
Always keep the chain slack within the specified
limits (60 - 70 mm).

Position the motorcycle vertically to inspect the chain slack.

Support the vehicle under the front part of the frame with a
suitable support. The rear wheel must turn freely.

Hazard!
Risk of injury!
Make certain that your fingers do not come between the
chain and the chain wheel.

Turn the rear wheel several times. Measure the chain slack (0)
at various points to find the tightest point. The valid measurement
must be taken at the tightest point of the chain. To do this, move
the chain up and down.

@
If the chain is too tight (slack(O) less than 60 mm) or too loose
(slack (0) more than 70 mm), adjust the chain slack:
1. Loosen the axle nuts (1) on each side by approx. 1 turn.

~1 Reducing the chain slack: Turn the nuts (2) on each

side of the chain adjuster the same distance to the right.
Increasing the chain slack: Turn the nuts (2) on both
sides of the chain adjuster the same distance to the left and
push the wheel forward.
2. Tighten the axle nuts (1).
3. After completing the adjustment, check the wheel track and
00000000°
correct it, if necessary.

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 LLLC J Chain

4.5.3 Chain Set

The chain set consists of:
(1) Chain
(2) Chain plate SX=52 teeth, SM = 49 teeth) (2)
(3) Locking plate *
(4) Pinion

@ * 3746032000 for threaded drive shaft, 6.5 mm long,

bored out nut
/:/I@ * 3746037000 (borehole of 17 mm) for threaded drive
0"-,,/
. f91 shaft, 9.7 mm long

Replacing the chain

Hazard!
Risk of injury!
Make certain that your fingers do not come between the
chain and the chain wheel.

1. Unscrew the two screws of the pinion cover.

2. Remove the pinion cover.

3. Carefully open the chain lock with a pliers.

4. Remove the chain lock.
5. Remove the chain.
6. Loosen the axle nuts by approx. 1 turn.
7. Mount the new chain.
8. Loosen the chain adjuster on both sides until the chain lock
can be inserted.
9. Insert the chain lock and close it.
The closed end of the chain lock must point in the direction
that the chain moves (arrow).
10. Adjust the chain slack (see 4.5.2 "Adjusting the Chain
Slack").
11. Screw on the axle nuts.
12. Spray the O-ring with chain spray.
13. Mount the pinion cover.

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 D.:.J..C1 Chain

Replacing the pinion

1. Unscrew the two screws of the pinion cover.
2. Remove the pinion cover.
3. Bend up the locking plate.
4. Engage a gear.
5. Unscrew the nut.
6. Remove the pinion.

7. Install in reverse order.

Note:
Always use a new locking plate'.
, 3746032000 for threaded drive shaft, 6.5 mm long,
bored out nut
, 3746037000 (borehole of 17 mm) for threaded drive
shaft, 9.7 mm long

Tightening torque:
Pinion hexagon nut:

Inspection
Inspect the following components:
Drive shaft,
Threading,
Shaft seal,
Teeth of the pinion and chain plate:
- (1) and (2) worn,
- (3) Ok.
When replacing the pinion or chain wheel, a new chain should
also be used.
Replace defective components.

4.5.4 Replacing the Chain Slider

1. Unscrew the two nuts from the threaded pins on the
swingarm.
2. Pull the chain slider forward away from the swingarm.
3. Position a new chain slider and screw it tight.

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 UJL1 Tyres

4.6 Tyres
Attention!
Worn tires reduce riding stability and can lead to acci-
dents.
Only the tires certified for the vehicle may be used
(see the technical data and entries in the certification
documents).
Make certain that the tire pressure is correct.

The tires must have the minimum legally required tread depth.
Independent of this, the tires should be replaced when they have
a minimum tread depth of 2 mm. .
Tire installation and balancing machines must be used to replace
the tires.
Consult the operating manual of the machine manufacturer.
The use of other tools and equipment may lead to damage or
unbalanced wheels.
The static unbalanced mass of a wheel in the direction of travel
should ideally be 0 g. A maximum of 50 g is permissible.
The directional markings must be observed when installing the
tires. These specify the direction of travel of the vehicle.
Tire pressure
maximum
1 or 2 persons
permissible
Load 15 kg each
axle load

SX SM SX SM
Front 190 kPa 180 kPa 190 kPa 180 kPa
1.9 bar 1.8 bar 1.9 bar 1.8 bar
28 psi 26 psi 28 psi 26 psi
Rear 200 kPa 230 kPa 250 kPa 260 kPa
2.0 bar 2.3 bar 2.5 bar 2.6 bar
29 psi 33 psi 36 psi 38 psi

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 I..J,jf -1 Spoke Fitting

4.7 Spoke Fitting

4.7.1 General Procedure

1. Place rim and hub on a table, and have the spokes ready.
2. Place blocks of wood at least at 3 positions under the rim,
so that the rim is located at the right level to the hub.
3. Insert the spokes with the threads through the hub.
4. Slide the spoke nipples through the rim and screw the
spoke nipples to the spokes.
5. Tighten the spoke nipples cautiously.
Make certain that the rim always remains at a right angle to
the axle.
6. Mount wheel bearing and axle.
7. Check the eccentricity.
If the differences are too big, adjust the eccentricity via the
spoke nipples and check again.

4.7.2 Spoke Fitting Values for SX

y Two different spoke types are used on the SX front wheel:

(1) Short spoke, 235 mm, 141", 18 pes.
(brake disc side)
(2) Long spoke, 277 mm, 144", 18 pes.

Spoke nipple DIN 74371 M3.5-6.4x18-c 2.0+ 0.5 Nm

Rim 1.85x21"
Front wheel hub, Bassano Grimeca company:
-X=25.5 mm
- Y = 47.5 mm

Position of eccentricity measurement

- A = lateral eccentricity at the rim edge: 0.5 mm
- B = vertical eccentricity at the rim edge:0.5 mm

Three different spoke types are used on the SX rear wheel:

(1) Short spoke, 172 mm, 168", 18 pes.
(2) Long spoke, 187 mm, 122", 9 pcs.
(brake disc side)
(3) Spoke, 184 mm, 122",9 Stk. (brake disc side)

Spoke nipple DIN 74371 M4x6.4x18-c, 2.5+0 .5 Nm

Rim 2.50x18" (Enduro)
Rear wheel hub, Bassano Grimeca company:
-X =33.3 mm
- Y =63.5 mm

Position of eccentricity measurement

- A = lateral eccentricity at the rim edge: 0.5 mm
- B = vertical eccentricity at the rim edge:0.5 mm

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 U../_C J Spoke Fitting

4.7.3 Spoke Fitting Values for SM

y Two different spoke types are used on the SM front wheel:

(1) Long spoke, 178 mm, 143", 18 pcs.
(2) Short spoke, 171 mm, 147", 18 pcs.
(brake disc side)
x
Spoke nipple DIN 74371 M3.S-6.4x18-c 2.S+ 0.s Nm
Rim 3.00x17"
Front wheel hub, Bassano Grimeca company:
-x = 76.S mm
=
-y 9 mm

Location of the engine number

=
- A lateral eccentricity at the rim edge: O.S mm
- B = vertical eccentricity at the rim edge:O.S mm
at

y Three different spoke types are used on the SM rear wheel:

(1) Short spoke, 161.S mm, 166", 18 pcs..
(2) Long spoke, 173.0 mm, 122.5", 18 pcs.
x (brake disc side)
(3) Spoke, 176 mm, 122.S", 9 pcs. (brake disc side)

Spoke nipple DIN 74371 M3.S-6x16-c 2.S+0. s Nm

Rim 3.S0x17"
Rear wheel hub, Bassano Grimeca company:
-X= 33.3mm
-y = 63.S mm

Position of eccentricity measurement

at =
- A lateral eccentricity at the rim edge: O.S mm
- B = vertical eccentricity at the rim edge:O.S mm

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 General Principles

5 Electrical Installation
5.1 General Principles
Connect all leads as per circuit diagram (appendix).
Always disconnect the battery from the vehicle network or
remove the fuses before performing work on the electrical instal-
lations and fuel supply.
To test electrical components, reconnect the battery. Careful
work is required.
In general, the following applies:
During disconnection, first disconnect the negative pole,
then the positive pole! During connection, first connect the
positive pole, then the negative pole!
All connections must be clean with secure contacts.
The connection between the wire and connection terminals
must always be inspected for tears in the individual wires.
Replace the connection if wires are broken.

Note:
Only operate the vehicle with an intact, connected battery.

5.2 Fuses

Attention!
Fire hazard and risk of serious damage to electrical
components!
Never use fuses with a higher current rating than the
one specified.
Never bypass the fuses or mend the fuses.

Specified fuses

Main fuse light blue

Fuse cartridge FKS-15 A

Fan fuse brown

Fuse cartridge FKS-7.5 A

Indicator fuse purple

Fuse cartridge FKS-3 A

Replacing
1. Switch off ignition.
2. Remove the seat.
3. Remove the cover for the triple fuse box.
4. Replace the burnt-out fuse cartridge.
Observe the correct amperage.
5. If necessary, refill the reserve fuse cartridges (2).
6. Return the cover, mount the seat.
7. Perform function test.
Should the fuse cartridge burn out again during the function test,
inspect the corresponding electrical components.

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 U..JJ J Battery

5.3 Battery
DANGER!
Risk of acid burns!
Always wear protective goggles and gloves when
working with battery acid.
Electrolyte (battery acid) is highly acidic. It must never
come into contact with eyes, skin or clothing!
Immediately wash affected areas of skin thoroughly
with water and see a doctor!

Note:
Always follow the manufacturer's instructions when working with
the battery!

Performance data:
Nominal voltage: 12 V
Nominal capacity: 9 Ah

The battery is located beyond left side panel.

In the series production models, lead batteries are used.
The battery connections must be kept clean and preserved with
battery grease.

5.3.1 Checking the Electrolyte Level

The electrolyte level must be above the lead contacts in each cell
by a few millimetres. Observe the markings. The level may not fall
below the "MIN" mark!
Only demineralised or distilled water may be used to refill the
battery.

1. Remove seat.
2. Remove the left side panel.
MAX 3. Visually inspect whether the electrolyte level is between the
"MIN" and "MAX" markings.
®~
';-~it---N---I MIN If the electrolyte level is too low:
1. Remove the plastic plug from the cells.
2. Add distilled or demineralised water to the removed battery
up to the "MAX" mark.
3. Return plastic plug.
4. Return side panel and seat.

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 !.J)..r 1 Battery

5.3.2 Replacing the Battery

Removal
1. Switch off ignition.
2. Remove the seat and side panel.
3. Unscrew the cable from the negative pole.
4. Unscrew the cable from the positive pole.
5. Store the screw and spacer sleeve (battery with connec-
tions from the top) safely.
6. Remove the degassing hose.
7. Remove the retaining strap.
8. Remove the battery.
9. Inspect the cell rubber strip and retaining strap, replacing if
necessary.
10. Clean the surface, if necessary.
Installation

Danger of short-circuits!
Incorrect polarity can destroy electronic components
and the battery.
Be certain to connect the poles correctly.
During installation, always connect the positive pole
first.

Note:
Install the cable with no kinks or chaffing points.
The battery connections must be clean with secure contacts.
Clean the connections with a brass brush and apply battery
grease.
Make certain that the battery rests securely.
Install the degassing hose such that no acid can-splash onto
parts of the vehicle. .
Replace a defective degassing hose.

1. During battery change, position the bonding sheet on the

front side (leave the level markings visible!).
2. Position the battery and fasten it with the retaining strap (4).
3. Screw the positive cable to the positive pole (connect from
the top with M5x20 screw (2) and spacer sleeve (3)).
Pull the starter relay from the mounting support, if neces-
sary, in order to ease installation and return it after connec-
tion.
4. Replace the rubber cap (1).
5. Connect all earth cables to the negative pole.
6. Remove any blockages in the degassing opening and
connect the degassing hose.
7. Return side panel and seat.

Note:
Always firmly tighten the connections to the poles.

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 LJ.J_t= 1 Batte~

5.3.3 Charging the Batte~

Attention!
Risk of explosion!
Smoking and the use of fire and open lights is
forbidden! Avoid the generation of sparks!
Ensure proper ventilation at the installation location!
Risk of destruction!
Charging the battery while installed and connected
can lead to the destruction of electronic components
and cause fires!
Disconnect and remove the battery!

Recharging of the battery is recommended at an open-circuit

voltage of more than 12.4 V at the battery terminals.

Note:
Take heed of information provided by the battery manufacturer!

Remove the battery for recharging

(see 5.3.2 "Replacing the Battery").
1. Connect the charging cable with correct polarity.
2. Unscrew the plastic plug.
3. Check the electrolyte level, refill if necessary
(see 5.3.1 "Checking the Electrolyte Level").
4. Switch on the charger.

The charging current should be 0.9 A (= 10% of the nominal

capacity) for normal charging.
Observe the charging technology specifications of the baitery
manufacturer.

5. Switch off charger.

6. Disconnect the charging cable.

At full capacity, the open-circuit voltage should be more than 12.8

V.

7. Check the electrolyte level

(see 5.3.1 "Checking the Electrolyte Level").
8. Securely screw in the plug.
9. Install the battery
(see 5.3.2 "Replacing the Battery").

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 6.5./:1 Ignition

5.4 Ignition

5.4.1 Block Circuit Diagrams

Version A
(1) Spark plug with connection nut (ISO terminal)
(2) Spark plug connector
(3) Ignition coil
(4) Ignition box, version A 1 version B (80 km/h)
(5) Sensor coil
1 (6) Alternator
(7) Controller (dash-lined connection not available for AET)!
,----RPM (starting from vehicle identification number
SNZ1 SXSM01 H501 04)
(8) Battery
(9) Fuse

--" Version B (80 km/h variant)

(1) Spark plug with connection nut (ISO terminal)

~
(2) Spark plug connector
(3) Ignition coil

tJID (4) Ignition box, version A 1 version B (80 km/h)

~l 9
(5)
(6)
(7)
Sensor coil
Alternator
Controller (dash-lined connection not available for AET)!
RPM (starting from vehicle identification number
-/.
SNZ1 SXSM01 H50104)
(8) Battery
(9) Fuse
(10) Sensor for 80 km/h variant:

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 Ignition

5.4.2 Spark Plug

Type: NGK- CR 8 E
Test spark distance: approx. 0.7 mm

The spark plug influences the preparation for starting, the idling
behaviour, acceleration, fuel consumption and the maximum
speed of the vehicle.

Attention!
Risk of burns and danger from the high voltage!
Do not touch the spark plugs while the engine is still
hot.
Never disconnect the spark plug cable to switch off
the engine.

Replacing
1. Switch off ignition.
1r-------#
2. Remove the spark plug connector (1).
3. Puncture the dirty spark plug cavity discharge hole (2) with
a wire.
Any water in the spark plug cavity flows out.
4. Unscrew the spark plug using the spark plug spanner (with
rubber insert) and a reversible screw driver.
5. Replace the spark plug.
6. Clean the gasket and unscrew the connection nut before
installing the spark plug.
7. Screw on the spark plug using the spark plug spanner.
8. Connect the spark plug connector.
Tightening torque:
Spark plugs: 15+2 Nm

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 UJ..t:1 Ignition

Inspection
1. Inspect the electrode. If the electrode is defective or
corroded, replace the spark plug.
2. Clean the combustion residue from the electrode using a
brass wire brush.
The electrode must show no visible signs of burning out.
The insulator foot must be greyish yellow to brown.
=
3. Check the spark plug air gap. (Al 0.7 mm.
® 4. Adjust the spark plug air gap, if necessary.

Colour of the
Possible Causes/Faults
Electrode

greyish yellow to brown correct carburettor setting and cor-

rect spark plug use

black air-fuel mixture too rich

light grey air-fuel mixture too lean

oily/wet Spark plug misfiring or poor seal

on the piston rings

5.4.3 Spark Plug Connector with Ignition Cable'

The spark plug connector and ignition cable form a unit.
Correct functioning of the spark plug connector is only guaran-
teed when it is securely connected to the spark plug (with the
connection nut screwed onto the connection screw). The ignition
cable must be clean, dry and free of tears in the insulation.

Removal
1. Remove the spark plug connector from the spark plug.
2. Unscrew the ignition cable from the ignition coil.
3. Perform a visual inspection for exterior damage.
4. Inspect the continuity, if necessary.
5. Replace the defective component, if necessary.
Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 /..k.l_C 1 Ignition

5.4.4 Ignition Coil

Hazard!
Danger from the electric voltage!
The ignition coil may only be replaced while the igni-
tion is switched off.

Removal
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank.
2. Unscrew nuts, remove the ignition coil from the mounting
bolts.
3. Remove the earth cable and pull off the plug contact.
4. Remove the spark plug connector. Do not pull on the cable!

Installation
Space between lock nut and frame tube: 8 mm.
Sequence of upper bolts: lock nut, washer, earth cable.
1. Position the earth cable on the lock nut of the upper bolt,
position the washer, screw on the nut.
2. Connect the plug contact to the ignition coil.
3. Connect the ignition coil, position the washer, screw on self-
locking nut.
Observe the correct tightening torque, otherwise the welded
bolt may tear.
4. Connect the spark plug connector.

(1) Frame
(2) Hexagon nut
(3) Washer
(4) Earth cable lug
(5) Ignition coil, naked side to the cable terminal lug
(6) Washer
(7) Hexagon nut

Note:
Make certain that the connection of the earth cable is secure and
free of corrosion and that it is correctly positioned with regard to
the ignition coil.

Tightening torque:
Ignition coil nuts:

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 Ignition

Inspection
Measure th .
1. prima; COlli resistance.
COl resistance (
_0.79 Q + 15" t supply - earth)·
_ 10 a 20°C. .

2. _7.6
Secondary c .
_ 20O~IYoresistance
kQ + at 20 0C . (s Par k plug connector - earth):

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 UJ.. L j Ignition

5.4.5 Ignition Box

The ignition box is attached to the rear wheel mud guard beyond
the seat.
The following designs are available:
16.754.126 open variant, series production unit
16.754.127 MZ 125 SM 80 km/h variant, only for Germany
16.754.134 MZ 125 SX 80 km/h variant, only for Germany

Refit sets with certification are available for a performance reduc-

tion to 80 km/h at a later date or an elimination of the reduction.
Removal
1. Remove seat.
2. Unscrew the two oval flange head screws.

3. Remove connector (at end of cable, turned away from the

ignition box):
- connector (1), 2-pin,
wires bk, wh to pick-up.
- connector (2) 3-pin,
wires br, wires br, chassis earth
gn/rd to tachometer
rslwh to shut-off relay
- connector (3), 2-pin .
wires br, ignition coil earth
bl, ignition coil.
80 km/h variant (only for Germany):
- Disconnect the additional2-pin cable (4) for wheel sensor

4. Cut cable binder, remove ignition box.

Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 I..J,j"!: 1 Ignition

5.4.6 Ignition Box Inspection

General information
The following scheme shows a simple method to check the
functional condition of the ignition box. This inspection does not
cover cable cut, contact corrosions and similar faults.

COl box connection (in 3-pin Molex connector)

cable green/red tachometer signal
cable red/white positive pole
cable brown: negative pole

Instrument Instrument
cable cable
resistance COl box
positive negative
pole pole

red/white brown overa.50 o.k.

red/white brown a or near a 0 defective

Ignition box and 80 km/h variant sensor

In addition to the general inspection procedure, please observe
the following instructions to check the ignition box of the 80 km/h
variant:

Faults
The ignition box limits the speed to approx. 6500 rpm in each
gear.

Possible causes;
too much acceleration when starting (only in the 1st gear)
dirty sensor with ferruginous residue
too large space to the transmitter plate of the pulse ring
defective cable or connector to the sensor
Sensor - ignition box connector not plugged
Fraudulent sensor fixing using ferruginous screws
or rivets (in series production non-magnetic screws
or rivets are used!).

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 UJ-f 1 Ignition

5.4.7 Conversion to the 80 km/h Variant

Note:
Conversion to the 80 kmlh variant is only intended for Germany.
Only the ignition box and retrofit set listed above may be used.
After the conversion, the appropriate modifications to the vehicle
documents must be made by the competent certification institute
in accordance with the certification! The same applies for the
removal of the speed limitation.

The retrofit set includes the ignition box, the manufactured

CD sensor (sensor, cable, plug connector) and all mounting
elements.
1. Properly secure the vehicle on the installation stand.
2. Remove seat.
o 3. Remove the ignition box for the non-performance reduced
variant.
4. Open the retrofit set, check for completeness based on the
enclosed information.
5. Install the ignition box (1) for the performance reduced
variant.
6. Remove the rear wheel (see 4.4 "Rear Wheel").
7. Attach the PVC sensor support angle (7) to the adapter
plate (9) with blind rivets (8) from the wheel side.
8. Screw the sensor (5) onto the sensor support angle (7) at
the lowest position using the EJOT PT screws(6) (non-
magnetic) with the cable end toward the outside.
9. Run the cable upward to the brake line.
10. Attach the cable at the end of the brake line using the RAP
4 ® cable binder (2).
11. Run the cable on the wheel side alongside the brake line.
® 12. Run the cable (3) and brake line (11) through together.
13. Attach the cable behind the front shell with the RAP cable
binder (2).
14. With fully ex1ended shock absorber, run the cable in a slight
curve to the inside of the frame and attach it with the RAP
cable binder (2).
15. Run the cable on the inside of the frame to the ignition box
(1) and attach it according to the diagram.
16. Establish the electrical contact via the plug connector.
17. Install the seat.
18. Tigthly plug the pulse ring (4) into the wheel hub.
19. Mount the rear wheel (see 4.4 "Rear Wheel").
20. Adjust the distance A = 1.5...2.5 mm between the trans-
mitter plate of the pulse ring (4) and the sensor (8).
21. The authorized dealers must confirm the proper installation
for certification.
If the sensor does not function properly, make certain to clean off
the brake disk residue!
Be certain to check the grooves for the mounting screws and
daub them off.

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 !.J5.f 1 Ignition

5.4.8 Regulator/Rectifier
The regulator/rectifier is attached to the underside of the intake
muffler and accessible from the right side of the vehicle.
Performance Data:
Controller voltage: 14.3 +/- 0.5 V
(14.5 +/- 0.5 V at controller SH626-12,
used up to vehicle identification number
SNZ1 SXSM01 H501040)
Protection level: IP67
Standby current: less than 1 mA/2.6 V
internal fuse
The vehicle may only be operated with an intact, connected
battery. Otherwise the regulator and ignition box may be
damaged.
Inspection
Test the correct functioning of the battery before testing the
component.
1. Properly secure the vehicle on the installation stand.
2. Ensure sufficient ventilation.
3. Remove the left side panel.
4. Ensure free access to the connections (1) of the battery (2).
5. Securely connect the measurement device, measurement
range 20 V DC.
6. Switch the ignition on and start the engine.
7. Set the speed to approx. 3000 rpm.
8. (A) dipped beam (3) switched off:
Voltage with full battery: 13...14.5 V.
9. (8) dipped beam (3) switched on:
Voltage with full battery: 12.5...14.5 V.

,, ...

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 LJ..:J..l: 1 Ignition

Replacing
1. Remove the seat and fuel tank.
2. Disconnect the plug connector (5) from the alternator cable
A and the plug connector (6) on the battery cable, open the
cable binder.
B+ 3. Unscrew the two screws (4) on the underside of the intake
,
muffler (1), remove the regulator/rectifier (2) and the four
'~',,,A;(
B- spacers (3).

4. Screw on the new regUlator/rectifier.

The spacer plate is not necessary, if the controller starting
from vehicle identification number SNZ1 SXSM01 H501041
is used instead the "SH626-12".
Please also note:
- Cut off the tubular terminal (7) on the cable harness.
- Kink the red/black 0.75 cable, isolate it with a shrinkage
hose and attach with a cable binder to the cable hamess.
5. Run the cable upward between the frame and the intake
muffler and connect the plug (6) to the jack on the battery
cable, insert the plug from the alternator cable into the jack
(5), making certain that good contact is made.
6. Attach the cable to the frame using cable binders.
Do not run the cable in front of the intake opening of the
intake muffler.
7. Install the seat and fuel tank.

Tightening torque:
Regulator/rectifier screws: maximum 4+ 1 Nm

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 Ignition

5.5 Alternator
The alternator is located under the left side engine cover.

(1) Stator
(2) Rotor
(3) Sensor (pick up)

Check the insulation between a coil end and the attachment

collar. The resistance must be greater than 10 O.

Performance data
Uoff-eff: 11.2V - at 1500 rpm with 1.62 0,
23.5V - at 10500 rpm with 1.620,
Poff-eff: 26 W - at 1500 rpm for U=const.=13.5 V at Rvar,
190W - at 10500 rpm for U=const.=13.5 V at Rvar-
Block circuit diagram

(1) Ignition coil

(2) Ignition box
(3) Sensor coil
(4) Alternator
(5) Controller (dash-lined connection not available
for AET! starting from vehicle identification number
SNZ1SXSM01H501041).
(6) Battery
(7) Consumer
(8) Fuse
I
7~<
I
® @ 5.5.1 Stator
Removal
1. Unscrew the 5 alternator cover screws, remove the cover.
2. Remove the screw and support plate.
3. Unscrew the two stator locking screws (micro-
encapsulated), move the stator.
4. Remove the plug.
Winding resistance 0.40 ± 0.04 0 at 23 ± 2 °C
Measurement is only possible with special methods!

Inspection
For rating the rotor condition:
Check the alternator voltage
• Check the insulation between a coil end and the attachment
collar (resistance greater than 10 0).
Installation
Install in reverse order.
Apply screw locking agent to the stator locking screws at medium
tightness. Remove the cover without the gasket.
User the 2 longer cover screws for the fitting sleeves.

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 U;,LC .:; Ignition

5.5.2 Rotor

Attention!
Danger of crushing!
Be aware of the magnet strength.
Do not let go of the cover near the rotor.

Removal
1. Unscrew the five alternator cover screws, remove the cover
with the stator.
2. Turn the crankshaft to the top dead point
(see 6.7.1 "Removal").
3. Unscrew the holding screw (1) for the locking screw and
ring seal.
4. Screw in the locking screw (2) and screw it into the bulge in
the cam shaft.

5. Remove the screw (2), washer and sensor (pick up) (1).

6. Screw the rotor removal tool tightly onto the rotor and pull
the rotor away from the crankshaft by pulling on the pres-
sure screw.
The process can be assisted with a light blow to the clam-
ping bolt of the removal tool.
7. Remove rotor.
The shaft seal ring on the left and the curved washer can be
replaced.

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 Ignition

Installation

Attention!
Possible damage to the sliding bearing!
Do not pound too hard on the crankshaft/curved washer
when removing the curved washer.

1. To install the rotor and adjust the sensor, lock the cranks-
haft with the locking screw (2) in the top dead centre.
2. Insert curved washer.
3. Lubricate the cone of the crankshaft and the cone of the
rotor well with brake cleaner.

Note:
No brake cleaner may come into contact with the rotary shaft
seal!

4. Position the rotor such that the curved washer nut and the
curved washer slide into each other.
5. Screw on the rotor with the microencapsulated screw and
washer.
Sensor adjustment with the sensor adjustment tool
1. Temporarily fasten the sensor (2) with two screws.
2. Insert the sensor adjustment tool (3) between the sensor
and the break-away plate (1) of the rotor.
3. Lightly place the sensor on the sensor adjustment tool and
screw it light. This sets the distance between the sensor
and the rotor to 0.5 ± 0.1 mm.

4. Remove the sensor adjustment tool.

5. Install the alternator cover with stator.
6. Remove the locking screw and plug the hole.
Sensor adjustment without the sensor adjustment tool
1. Remove the locking screw and plug the hole.
2. Temporarily fasten the sensor (2) with two screws.
3. Turn the front edge of the break away plate (1) over the
sensor.
=
4. Adjust the distance (A) 0.5 ± 0.1 mm using a thickness
gauge.
5. Screw the sensor in tight.
6. Install the alternator cover with stator.
®
Tightening torque:
Rotor screw:

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 Starter Relay

5.6 Flasher Relay

The flasher relay is attached to the rear wheel mud guard beyond
the seat.
Removal
1. Remove the seat.
2. Unscrew the screws.
3. Remove the cable.

Installation

I Install in reverse order.

I Treat the plug contact with a suitable care product to prevent
I corrosion.

-
-~-I-~- (31) brown 0.75
(49a) black 1blue 0.75
(49) red 1white 0.75
49 ..lli". 31
,

5.7 Starter Relay

The starter relay is located in a relay pocket. This relay pocket is
attached to two brackets on the frame.
Removal
1. Remove the seat.
2. Pull out the relay pocket toward the middle of the vehicle.
3. Remove the cable.

Note:
Slide on the relay pocket on the frame bracket so that the connec-
tion cable are placed on the bottom.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
Treat the plug contact with a suitable care product to prevent
corrosion.

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 Starter Relay

5.8 Shut-off Relay

The shut-off relay is attached to the rear wheel mud guard
beyond the seat.
Function
The shut-off relay interrupts the ignition circuit when the gear is
engage with extended side stand.
The activation of the starter is also blocked.

Note:
If the engine can be started while the vehicle is in gear and the
side stand is extended or if the engine continues to run, then:
the shut-off relay or
the diode 31 (see circuit diagram) or
the side stand switch or
the neutral gear switch are defective.

Removal
1. Note the slot allocation.
2. Remove the seat.
3. Unscrew the screw.
4. Remove the four cables.

Installation
Install in reverse order.

Slot allocation:
(1) green 0.75
(2) red/black 0.75
-5 (3) red/black 0.75
(4)
I2 I4 I1 (5) twice red / white 0.75

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 Starter Relay

5.9 Thermal Switch

The thermal switch is bolted to connection piece on the left rear
of the cylinder head cooling system.
Removal
1. Remove the lower clamp shell on the radiator, remove the
radiator hose and drain the coolant into a suitable container.
2. Remove the rubber sleeve, remove the plug contact.
3. Carefully unscrew the thermal switch with wrench, size 29.
Be careful not to damage the oil pressure switch.
Inspection
To test the thermal switch, switch points must be triggered with
controlled heating.

Attention!
Risk of scalding!
The liquid is heated over 100°C!
It is recommended that a three-wire cable be equipped
with appropriate cable lugs on one side.
Before heating the thermal switch (2) in the liquid,
connect the cable to the contacts (top view (1)).

1. Heat coolant (anti-freeze), preferably undiluted, in a

container and stir continuously.
Check the temperature with a thermometer.
1

- f c
2. Hang the thermal switch (2) in the liquid with the brass
probe.
3. Use an appropriate tool, such as an angle iron (3), to do
this.
I 1"1 2
4. The following switch states must be observed upon
I reaching the specified limit temperature.

- ~I~ (Continuity tester, see top view (1) for contacts:

-
r-- -
- -==--
- -- Switch (A)-(e)
- - - - -
r-- - - -- - Fan
- - -
r - -- - -
- -- -
- - - Temperature Heating Cooling Fan
-
-
---
-
-
-
-
-
- (0G) switch point switch point
~- - - - -
-- - - -- (a) 95±5 X OFF
- - -
-- -
-
--
- - (b) 100± 5 X ON
f-- - - --
Switch (A)-(S)
\ Temperature warning light
I
Temperature Heating Cooling Temperature
ee) switch point switch point warning light
(c) 105 ± 5 X OFF
(d 110 ± 5 X ON

If the behaviour does not match that described above, the

thermal switch must be replaced.

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 Horn

Installation
Install in reverse order.

(1) bk positive pole

(2) orange Temperature pilot lamp
(3) bklgn Fan

Add water, add anti-freeze if necessary.

5.10 Horn
The horn is attached to the front part of the frame.
It is designed as an electromagnetic striking horn.

Removal
1. Carefully remove the plug contact using a pliers.
2. Unscrew the hexagon nuts and remove the horn.

Installation
Install in reverse order.

Note:
The horn must not be in contact with the fuel tank!
It is attached to the right side of the steering head pipe on the
bottom of the clamp shell.

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 Horn

5.11 Starter
The starter is mounted on the left side of the crankcase.
Its drive pinion catches in the right crankcase.

The starter is replaced as a unit and should not be further

dismantled.
Inspection
A battery in good working condition is the prerequisite for the
following tests. To prevent damage to electrical components
(starter button, starter relay, supply), first test the voltage at the
starter cable terminals.
1. Connect the voltmeter in parallel with the positive cable (1)
and earth cable terminal (2).
2. Press starter button.
3. Measure voltage.
If a voltage (12 - 14 V) is detected on the positive cable
with pressed starter button and the starter does not tum,
the circuit is OK.
If the voltage breaks down, the starter has a short-circuit
fault or is blocked.
The starter must be replaced in both cases.
Removal
1. Remove the left side panel, disconnect the negative pole on
the battery.
2. Remove the cable (1) from the oil pressure switch.
3. Unscrew the 2 screws (2), remove the earth cable (3).
4. Pull the starter straight out from the crankcase.
Do not lilt.

5. Push back the rubber protector.

6. Hold the lower nut still to unscrew on the top nut.
7. Disconnect the positive cable.

Installation
Check teeth, treat O-ring with lubicant.
Make certain that the terminals are in proper condition, protect
against corrosion using an appropriate product.
Install in reverse order.
Install the toothed lock washer between the cable lug of the earth
wire and the starter housing.
Positive cable connection: check the lower nut for correct posi-
tion. Hold the lower nut still to screw on the top nut.

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 u.:.t.J:1 Horn

5.12 Fan
The fan is bolted to the rear side of the right-hand radiator.
Removal
1. Disconnect the fan power supply from the cable harness at
the plug (1).
2. Unscrew the four screws (2).
~....,./ 3. Remover the fan.
==--,/
~\\\\\\\ Q
/ ~\\\\\\\
~."A\\\\\\\\\,
Inspection
Test the smooth rotation of the fan wheel or the tight seat of fan
shaft.
The fan wheel is jammed or turns with difficulty if the fan motor is
corroded. The engine overheats, the fuse burns out.

1. Connect the vehicle power supply to the fan contacts.

2. The fan must turn easily.
3. Replace defective fans.

Attention!
Possible engine damage!
If water enters the fan motor, it may become corroded.
The fan breaks and the forced cooling is no longer
guaranteed.
Overheating the engine leads to severe engine
damage.
Install the fan with the cable downward.

Installation
Install in reverse order.
The connection cable must be run downward out of the cover.

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 UJL 1 Diodes

5.13 Diodes

5.13.1 Position and function

Diodes are mounted on four positions of the cable harness. They
fulfil the following task:

No in
Diode circuit Function
diagram

01 30 This blocks the speedometer illumi-

nation when the parking light is on
(handlebar lock).

D2 31 prevents the ignition, that is the start

of the engine, when the side stand is
extented and the gear is enganged at
the same time.
This makes it impossible to ride off
when the stand is extended.

03 32 In the starter circuit.

04 34 Prevents voltage spikes in the electri-

cal installation when the horn is used.

5.13.2 Test Diodes

Two types of faults are possible in the built-in diodes:
Diode in short-circuit, diode is conductive in both directions.
• Diode in idle condition; diode blocks

Fault exposure Test/test medium Remedy

Noin
Diode in idle
Diode circuit Diode in short-circuit Continuity tester
condition
diagram
D1 30 The speedometer illumination The parking light, the tail
lights when the parking light is on. light and the instrument Z. >.
'5 C
If the light switch is in parking light illumination light when the c 0 ai
:g c
or full light position, the electrical ignition and the parking
"'iii'"
0
8
installation is in operation without
ignition lock being switched on.
light are switched on.
£
0
'" a.c
'.
.. 0
'" "'"
c
C\l

D2 31 A gear is engaged, side stand is Side stand extended, neu- e E £

.;;
folded in: Neutral gear pilot lamp tral gear engaged: N9 igni- 'cc"
0
'" 0
E.l= U>
lights. tion, impossible to start the
engine.
u
.: '" '"
~
::J
U>
OJ
C\l
U>
U>

'"
E
tJ C\l U> C\l
.<:
D3 32 Possibly break of the 15A fuse No impact on function, but 'cc"
0
E
'" a.
C\l

'" C\l '"

:0
the protection function is U -.a
.<: '"
C\l
u
disabled. E1i)
£'" .2 ::J £'"
D4 34 Possibly break of the 15A fuse No impact on function, but g? "g E l'lC\l
the protection function is o W co ~
E .............. Q) a.
Q)WrJ).c
disabled. o::2El- '"
0::

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 General Information

6 Engine
6.1 General Information
Before individual components of the disassembled engine can be
inspected for continued usability, they must first be cleaned
thoroughly.
To prevent damage to the engine paint, no aggressive cleaning
agents may be used. Typical engine cleaner is recommended.
The cleaning rags used must be free of loose fibres. Textile fibres
can clog lubrication openings.
Wear on components can be recognised by abrasion marks or
crack formation. If excessive wear marks are discovered, the
cause must be located and remedied. If the cause is not reme-
died, the same damage will occur to newly installed components
after a short time!
It is often not possible to detect wear with the naked eye. The
dimensions of the components must be inspected using a
adequate measuring device. If the tolerance values are
exceeded, the components must be replaced.

6.2 Inspection

6.2.1 Compression Pressure

The compression pressure is measured with a compression
testing device.
1. Start the engine and let it warm up for a few minutes.
2. Switch off the ignition, disconnect the ignition cable.

Attention!
Risk of short-circuit in open ignition circuit. Possible
damage to the ignition system!
Always connect the spark plugs to the spark plug
connector and to an earthed, unpainted part.
It must be possible for the sparks to be discharged
into open air.

3. Unscrew the spark plugs and re-insert them into the spark
plug connector.
4. Tightly screw the compression testing device into the
engine.
5. Tum thE! throttle twist grip to full gas and turn over thE!
enginE! with the electrical starter.
The battery should be fully chargE!d.
6. Let the starter run for 4 - 7 s, until the display of the
compression testing device no longer changes.

Compression pressure: 8 - 12 bar at 20+5 "C

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 uJL 1 Inspection

If the compression pressure is below the minimum permissible

value:
1. Add a few drops of motor oil to the cylinder.
2. Repeat measurement.

Compression Diagnosis
pressure
Higher than without oil Piston worn out or damaged

Same Piston ring(s), valves, cylinder

head seal or piston may be
defective, poor seal on valve

Over the maximum Check the cylinder head, valve

pressure surface or piston head for
combustion residue.

6.2.2 Oil Level

Check the oil level while the engine is cold.

1. Position the vehicle vertical on a flat, horizontal surface.

A slight incline (approx. 5° or more) results in an inaccurate
reading.
2. Unscrew the oil cap with oil dipstick from the oil filler neck
and wipe off the dipstick.
3. Re-insert, then unscrew the cap again and check the oil
MAX level on the dipstick.
@ MIN The oil level must be between the MIN and MAX markings.
4. Add oil, if necessary, but never more than the maximum!

Note:
If the oil level is at MIN, up to 200 cm3 (0.2 I) of oil may be added.

6.2.3 Oil Change

Environment!
Discharged motor oil can contaminate ground water
and soil.
No oil may enter the sewer system or the soil. Immedi-
ately collect discharged oil and dispose of it properly.
Old oil must be collected in suitable containers until it (
is properly disposed of.

Oil types to be used (usable year-round):

- SAE 15 W-50 API SG/SH
- SAE 10 W -40 API SG/SH

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 Inspection

Oil volumes
Oil volume after dismantling the engine: 1.2 I
Oil change with filter change: 1.21
Change
The oil should be changed according to the intervals listed in the
maintenance plan.

1. Allow the engine to run until it (and the oil) is warm.

2. Position the vehicle vertically on a flat, horizontal surface.
3. Position a suitable oil collector under the engine.
4. Loosen the oil return plug (1) and pull it out as far as the
stop.
5. Unscrew the oil filler plug (2).

6. Unscrew the oil drain plug (3).

7. Unscrew the screw plug together with the oil screen (4),
handling the seal carefully!
8. Let the oil drain out completely.
9. Unscrew the 2 screws of the oil filter cap.
10. Remove the oil filter.
11. Soak the new filter and O-ring in oil, then insert it, renew the
seal and screw the cap on tightly.
12. Clean the coarse screen of the screw plugs and the magnet
of the oil drain plug.
13. Screw in the oil drain plug (3) and the screw plug with the
coarse screen (4) and tighten.
14. Add 1.2 I of oil to the engine and screw in the oil filler plug.

15. Check oil level (see 6.2.2 "Oil Level").

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 6.2.4 Oil Filter
The oil filter is changed with every oil change.

Note:
If the oil filter is not changed in accordance with the specified
intervals, the filter paper may become clogged. The oil flow will
be obstructed. Engine damage is possibie, as only the emer-
gency oil supply is active.

Removal

1. Position a suitable container under the vehicle.

2. Open the oil return plug (1) and let the oil drain out of the oil
filter cavity.
3. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws (2), remove the cap and
seal.
4. Pull out the oil filter.

The oil filter has a bypass opening in the centre of the filter.
This bypass opening guarantees an emergency oil supply to the
engine, even when the oil filter is dirty.
The opening pressure of the bypass opening is 1.4 ± 0.2 bar.

Installation
1. Spread oil on the seat for the seal ring on the inside of the
filter.

2. Soak the filter paper lightly in oil.

Improvement in the oil flow after the oil filter change.
3. Place the filter on the seat on the clutch cover, install the oil
filter cover with seal.
4. Check the oil level.
5. Test run the engine at idling speed only until the oil pressure
has returned to normal.

Note:
Possible engine damage!
Never run the engine faster than idling speed during test running.

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 u':,Lr;( Inspection

6.2.5 Oil Return Plug

Removal
1. Open the oil return plug (1),
let the oil drain from the oil filter cavity in the clutch cavity.
2. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws(2), remove cap (3) with seal
ring.
3. Remove the retaining ring (4) with a spreading pliers.
Remove the oil return plug from the cap.

4. Remove the shaft seal from the cap.

Installation
1. Press in the shaft seal with your thumbs, lips facing inward
(toward oil filter).
2. Press the oil return plug into the hole.
The plug must not damage the shaft seal.
3. Insert the retaining ring into the nut of the oil return plug.
4. Fasten the cap with two cylinder screws.

6.2.6 Oil Pressure Sensor

Type: Bosch 03441 01090
Switch pressure: 0.5-0.8 bar
inspection
The oil pressure sensor monitors the oil pressure. If there is no
oil pressure (e.g. insufficient motor oil, damage to the oil circuit,
engine not in operation), the indicator lamp lights.
If it is determined that no fault exists in the oil circulation, then:
Cable broken, lamp does not light when switched on.
Check the cable and lamp.
Oil pressure sensor defective, replace the oil pressure
sensor.
Change
1. Remove the cable.
2. Unscrew the switch, remove with seal ring.
3. Use a new seal ring for installation.

Tightening torque:
Oil pressure sensor:

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 UJf 1 Engine Removal

6.2.7 Checking the Oil Pressure

The external oil pressure check for diagnosis purposes is
performed with the engine at operating temperature.
1. Remove the oil pressure sensor.
2. Screw in the pressure gauge.
3. Start the engine.

Oil pressure at idling speed (1800 rpm): minimum 0.7 bar

Oil pressure at nominal speed (9500 rpm): minimum 2.2 bar

6.3 Engine Removal

Attention!
Dirt and other foreign materials cause faults and
defects when they are present in the engine.
The engine must be thoroughly cleaned before it is
removed and dismantled.

1. Position the vehicle on the installation stand and secure it

with tension belts.
2. Switch off the ignition, disconnect the battery terminals.
3. Drain the fluid into a suitable container.
4. Drain the motor oil into a suitable container (see 6.2.3 "Oil
Change").
5. Disconnect the clutch bowden cable.
6. Remove the spark plug connector.
7. Completely remove the exhaust system
(see 3.16 "Muffler").
8. Remove the cable from the thermal switch.
9. Open the carburettor hose clamp of the air intake fitting,
remove the air intake fitting from the intake manifold.
10. Remove the radiator hose from the intake manifold.
11. Protect the stud bolts near the exhaust so that the frame is
not scratched.
12. Remove pinion cover.
13. Open the secondary chain on the chain joint, remove
(see 4.5 "Chain").
14. Remove gearshift lever.
15. Remove the starter and unscrew the cable.
16. Remove the seat, disconnect the sensor cable pull it out
near the frame and intake muffler.
17. Disconnect the cable from the idling switch.
18. Disconnect the alternator-rectifier cable (yellow).
19. Remove the engine ventilation hose.

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 !.Jj_r;{ Engine Removal

20. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws on the front engine support

plate while holding the nuts still.
21. Pull out the cylinder screws.

22. Unscrew and pull out the screws of the rear engine suspen-
sion.

23. Tilt the engine upward near the cylinders and pull it out
toward the front right.

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 UJ.fj Clutch

6.4 Clutch

I,-@
I
I
I
'1'c-'9

10

(1) Spring, 5x
(2) Pressure plate with threaded insert
(3) Plate packet
(4) Disc spring
(5) M12x1 nut
(6) Locking plate
(7) Washer, clutch
(S) Dog
(9) Washer, clutch
(10) Clutch basket
(11)Thrustwasher2Sx1SxO.OS (or 0.90, 1.00, 1.10, 1.20 mm)
(12) Pressure rod with ball
(13) Clutch activation lever
(14) Clutch cable counter bearing
(15) Sliding bearing

6.4.1 Adjustment
The bowden cable play is adjusted at the clutch lever.
It is measured at the end of the clutch lever and should be
3-5mm.
1. Push back the rubber cap.
2. Loosen the lock nut.
3. Screw the adjusting screw inward or outward as required.
4. Hold the adjusting screw, tighten lock nut.
5. Push on the rubber cap.

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 u:.tL1 Clutch

The basic adjustment is performed at the clutch basket.

6.4.2 Clutch Activation Lever

Removal
1. Remove starter (see 5.11 "Starter").
2. Remove pinion cover.
3. Disconnect the bowden cable at the counter bearing and
clutch activation lever (1) on the engine.
4. Remove the pUll-back spring (2).
5. Unscrew the screw (3) for the clutch activation lever.
6. Pull the shaft completely out of the housing, remove spring.

7. Remove the shaft seal ring and needle bush and replace if
necessary.
The shaft seal ring is destroyed by removing it!

Note:
The sliding bearing for the shaft of the clutch activation lever can
only be replaced on a dismantled engine.

Installation

1. Insert needle bush and seal ring.

2. Insert the clutch activation lever with spring at an angle of
is''.
3. Screw in the screw for the clutch activation shaft with screw
locking agent at medium tightness.
4. Connect the bowden cable at tti~!utch connection lever
and clutch lever.
5. Return pull-back spring.
6. Perform a function test.

Tightening torque:
Screw of clutch activation shaft: 5+2 Nm

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 I.J.JL j Clutch

6.4.3 Removing the Clutch

1. Allow the engine to run until it is warm.
2. Position the vehicle vertically on a flat, horizontal surface.
Position a suitable container under the engine.
3. Open the oil drain plug under the engine. Drain the oil.
4. Unscrew the 13 cylinder screws, remove crankcase cover
with seal.

Note:
The parts for the oil pressure regulator are easy to lose!
For this reason, tilt the engine to the left, remove the spring, oil
pressure adapter and ball.

5. The spring for the oil pressure regulator (1) is supported by

the surface under the oil filter cavity. Changing the position
of this surface results in changes to the engine oil pressure.
Engine damage is possible!
6. The selector shaft is supported axially by the surface (2) on
the rear of the clutch cover. If the seal for the crankcase
cover is forgotten, the selector shaft may get jammed
against the surface.
7. Thoroughly clean the inside of the cover near the plastic
bush for engine ventilation.

8. Unscrew the 5 screws, remove the washers, springs and

pressure plate.
9. Remove the plate packet and disc spring.

10. Bend up the locking plate under the nut.

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 Clutch

11. Unscrew the valve cap and set the crankshaft to the top
dead point (see 6.7 "Cylinder Head").
12. Unscrew the cylinder screw (1), insert the crankshaft
locking bolt (2) (ST 1).

13. Slide the clutch locking tool (ST 5) onto the dog.
Insert the bolts of the locking tool into the grooves of the
cI utch basket.
14. Unscrew the nut.
15. Remove the clutch locking tool.
16. Remove the locking washer and the first washer for the
clutch, also remove the dog and second washer for the
clutch.

Note:
The nut that holds the pump drive gear against the crankshaft has
left-handed threading.

17. Unscrew the nut for the pump drive gear.

Left-handed threadingl

18. Remove the shock absorber (1) and clutch basket (2) at the
same time.

Note:
The spacer and thrust washers behind the clutch basket may
. stick together. Loss possible!
The.shock absorber is a complete component. It cannot and may
not be disassembled by unauthorised personnel!

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 !.J,jL1 Clutch

Inspection
Inspect and measure the following components. Replace defec-
tive or worn out components.
Compression spring:
Measure the length of the compression springs.

Unstressed: 38.5 mm
Wear limit: 37.7 mm

Always replace the compression springs as a set.

Lining plates:
Measure the thickness of the lining plates at four locations.

New: 3 ±0.05 mm
Wear limit: 2.7mm

Replace worn or bumt-out clutch plates.

Always replace clutch plates as a set.

Inner plates:
Check the inner plates for warping and bending.
Place them on a flat surface and check with a thickness gauge.

Thickness: 1.5 ± 0.05 mm

Wear limit: 1.3mm

,11,!\."Jays replace the inner plates as a set.

Clutch basket:

Attention!
Always replace the clutch basket completely together
with the drive gear (primary drive).

Check the clutch gear for wear, damage and pit formation.
Inspect the riveted joint.
Check the clutch basket for pressure marks.

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 Clutch

Dog:
Check the inner plate guide grooves for wear and damage,
replace dog if necessary.

Bulges in the dog key grooves lead to jerky clutch operation.

Pressure rods:
The faces of the pressure rods must not exhibit "mushrooming"
from the pressure of the ball.
Roll the pressure rods over a fiat surface and check for deforma-
tion.
Wear limit: maximum 0.5 mm

Shock absorber:
The shock absorber cannot be dismantled.
It is equipped with colour markings to protect against tampering.
Inspect the shock absorber for wear and damage, replace if
necessary.

6.4.4 Installation
The crankshaft must be locked with the crankshaft locking bolt.

1. Slide on the clutch basket and shock absorber at the same

time.
2. Slide the clutch locking tool (ST 5) onto the dog.
3. Insert the washer and locking plate.
4. Screw the M12 nut on tightly, turn the locking plate.
5. Insert one pressure rod, then insert the ball and the second
pressure rod.
6. Insert the disc spring.
The inner circumference lies on the dog, the outer circumfe-
rence points to the plate packet.
If the disc spring and plates are not replaced, the same
plate must be positioned next to the disc spring.
7. Starting with an inner plate, insert 6 inner and 6 lining plates
in alternation.
8. Loosen the lock nut of the adjusting screw, snap the pres-
sure plate with gear onto the clutch packet.
9. Install the springs with screws and washers. Tighten in
crosswise manner.
10. Adjust the clutch.

Tightening torque:
Clutch dog nut: 58+4 Nm
Clutch spring screws: 5+ 1 Nm

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 I.JJ..K J Gearshift

6.5 Gearshift

6.5.1 Selector Shaft

Removal

1. Remove clutch (see 6.4.3 "Removing the ClutCh").

2. Remove gearshift lever.
3. Thoroughly clean the selector shaft near the secondary
chain.
Soiling can cause the selector shaft to jam when sliding
through the engine housing.
4. Remove pinion cover.
5. Check the selector shaft for deformation.
To do this, place a steel ruler or angle iron on the part that
juts outward.
6. Pull out the selector shaft.

Inspection
1. Check the curvature of the selector shaft (1 ).
To do this, roll the selector shaft over a flat surface.
2. Check the pull-back spring and retaining ring (2) for frac-
tures.
3. Test the ease of action of the lever (3).

Installation
Install in reverse order.

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 /..;)r"1 Gearshift

6.5.2 Free Wheel

Removal
1. Completely remove the clutch.
2. Remove the shock absorber.
3. Unscrew the countersunk screw (1), remove the washer,
remove the free wheel (2) from the balancing shaft.

Testing
The free wheel must lock at every position (360°).
1. Hold the free wheel drum in place.
2. Tum the free wheel in 5° steps, alternating between clock-
wise and counter-clockwise.
If the locking function does not work in the counter-clock-
wise direction, the free wheel is defective and must be
replaced.
If pronounced chatter marks are found on the free wheel,
the free wheel must be replaced.

Removal of the free wheel is only useful for determining the

extent of wear. The free wheel is destroyed by removing it.
Installation
Install in reverse order.
The free wheel drum with free wheel is delivered as a complete
spar part.

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 U;LC 1 Pumps

6.6 Pumps

6.6.1 Oil Pump

The engine has a pump circulated lubrication system. The oil is
supplied to the lubrication points of the engine and transmission
by a feed pump.

Removal
1. Drain oil from the engine, remove the crankcase cover
(see 6.4.3 "Removing the Clutch").
2. Remove the locking washer from the pump shaft, remove
the 3 thrust washers.
3. Pull off the oil pump gear.

Note:
Be careful, the straight pin can fall out of the hole into the oil
pump. Loss possible!

4. Remove the pump drive wheel.

5. Unscrew the 3 cylinder screws, remove the oil pump.

6. Unscrew the Phillips screw, take apart the oil pump.

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 Pumps

Inspection
Inspect the following components for wear/cracks/damage,
replace the oil pump if necessary:

Housing (3)
Gear, oil pump
Innerrotor (1)
Outer rotor (2)

If significant wear marks are found, replace the oil pump.

Also take the oil pressure into consideration
(see 6.2.7 "Checking the Oil Pressure").
Installation
Install in reverse order.
The cylinder screws are microencapsulated.
If the screws are reused, secure the threads by means of
LOCTITE 243.

6.6.2 Water Pump

(1) Lock washer
(2) Thrust washer
(3) Gear, water pump
(4) Straight pin
(5) Cylinder screws
(6) Water pump
(7) a-ring 7x56 HBR
(8) a-ring 8x53 HBR

Removal

1. Drain oil from the engine, remove the crankcase cover

(see 6.4.3 "Removing the Clutch").
2. Remove the locking washer from the oil pump shaft, remove
the 3 washers.
3. Unscrew the nut for the pump drive gear.
Left-handed threading! Remove the drive gear from the
crankshaft.
4. The following step is not necessary in every case, because
the screws (5) are accessible.
Remove the locking washer, thrust washers and gear from
the pump shaft.
Make certain that the straight pin (4) does not fall out of the
hole, as it may get lost.
5. Unscrew the 2 screws.
6. Pull the pump out of the housing.
The a-rings may offer resistance in the housing.

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 1..J...!.f J Pumps

2 holes are located in the centre of the water pump.

Discharge hole for oil that may have entered due to a defec-
tive a-ring or a defective shaft seal ring (under the drive
wheel).
Discharge hole for water that may have entered due to a de-
fective a-ring or a defective seal under the pump wheel.

There is a hole in the water pump seat in the engine housing

which allows oil or water to flow out through the housing.
Clean the hole if necessary using a suitable tool (figure).

Inspection
Inspect the following components for wear/cracks/damage,
replace the water pump if necessary:
• Housing
Gear, water pump
• a-rings
Impeller

a-rings can be replaced separately. The water pump is replaced

as a unit.
Installation
Install in reverse order.

Note:
CarefUlly place the water pump in the housing.
The impeller must not be damaged.

6.6.3 Oil Pressure Regulator

No foreign parts may be used in the oil pressure regulator:
no longer or shorter springs.
• no ball with a different diameter.

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 Cylinder Head

6.7 Cylinder Head

If work is only being performed on the cylinder head, the engine
can remain in the frame. To do so, drain the coolant!
Before working on the cylinder head, the spark plugs should be
removed.

(1) Cylinder head

(2) Cylinder screws
(3) Nuts

-" 6.7.1 Removal

1. Remove the seat and fuel tank.
2. Remove the spark plug connector.
3. Remove the spark piug.

4. Unscrew the 4 decoupling elements from the valve cap

(Torx© E10).
5. Remove valve cap, check seal.

6. Bring the engine to the "top dead centre" position.

The piston (5) is located at the top dead point when the
holes in the camshaft (1) + (2) point to the left.
7. Unscrew the cylinder screw and screw
in the crankshaft locking bolt (5).
This inserts the crankshaft locking bolt (5)
into the groove (4) in the crankshaft.

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 U..J.X J Cylinder Head

8. Unscrew the M6 hexagon head screw from the chain adju-

ster.
The tension is removed from the chain adjuster.
9. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws, remove the chain adjuster
from the cylinder.
The top side of the chain adjuster is marked with an "0".

10. Press down on the locking catch of the timing chain adjuster
from above using a screw driver. Insert the pressure pin.

11. Remove the guide rail and bearing covers 1 - 4.

12. Remove the timing chain and pull out the camshafts.

13. Unscrew the 2 M6 cylinder screws near the timing chain

shaft.

14. Loosen the 4 M8 nuts for the cylinder head mount in a

crosswise manner,
turning them approx. 90" each until the counter pressure
from the cylinder is eliminated.
15. Completely unscrew the nuts for the cylinder head mount.

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 Cylinder Head

16. Pull the timing chain upward so that the tension rail can be
moved freely.
17. Pull the cylinder head away from the stud bolts.

Note:
Only replace the cylinder head seal together with the cylinder
base seal.

Inspection

Use an oil stone to clean combustion residue from the sealing

surfaces.
Inspect the cylinder head for cracks.
Check that the sealing surface is level by placing a straight-edge
over both diagonals.
Wear limits: 0.02 mm

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 U':.LC 1 Cylinder Head

6.7.2 Valve Train

(1) Guide rail top and support plate

(2) Hexagon head screws
(3) Chain wheels, camshaft
(4) Timing chain 92 RH 2010-122M
(5) Guide rail
(6) Tension rail
(7) Exhaust camshaft
(8) Intake camshaft
(9) Chain adjuster

6.7.3 Timing Chain, Tension and Guide Rails

Removal
1. Remove the guide rail.

Left: Guide rail with O-rings, RT 125

up to cylinder no. 37-42.050 (sand casting)
Right: Guide rail with O-rings, RTlSXlSM 125
starting with cylinder no. 37-42.053 (gravity die
casting)

2. Run the timing chain (1) downward.

3. Unscrew the screw (2), pull out the tension rail (3) upwards.

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 Cylinder Head

4. If necessary, unscrew the M16 nut

(left-handed threading!), primary drive, and remove the
pump drive gear.
5. Pull off the primary drive wheel using the claw removal tool
(ST).

Inspection
Timing chain:

Parts of the timing chain (A):

(1) Bolt
(2) Chain link
(3) Guide

In the event of significant wear on the lower edge of the inside of

the guide (B), alignment faults occur.
A B
Timing chain jams or has cracks:
Replace the timing chain and chain wheels as a set.

Guide rail:

Inspect for wear.

(1) Guide rail

(2) Tension rail
(3) Top guide rail

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 !.J,j...C 1 Cylinder Head

6.7.4 Chain Wheel, Camshaft

Removal

1. Hold the camshaft with the open-jawed spanner ST 16 and

screw off the chain wheel screw with ST 13.

Inspection
- Camshaft:

(A) Intake: 32.80 - 32.90 mm; minimum 32.65 mm

Exhaust: 31.95 - 32.05 mm; minimum 31.80 mm

(B) Intake: 25.95 - 26.05 mm; minimum 25.80 mm

Exhaust: 25.95 - 26.05 mm; minimum 25.80 mm

(C) Intake: 6.85 mm

Exhaust: 6.15 mm

Outer diameter at the bearing: 19.967 - 19.98 mm

Clearance between the camshaft and cover: 0.020 - 0.046 mm
maximum permissible eccentricity at the bearing: 0.03 mm

- Chain Wheel, Camshaft:

\/\/hen the components are adjusted correctly, light markings can

be seen centred on the edges of the timing chain (1) and the
edges of the chain wheels (2).

If there is too little tension in the timing chain, the chain links do
not grip the teeth of the chain wheels correctly. These are worn
out more quickly, the markings are located near the edges.

If the chain wheel is worn out or damaged: Replace the timing

chain and chain wheels as a set.

Replace the crankshaft as well, if significant wear is found.

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 Cylinder Head

Installation

0 , 1. Replacing the chain wheel and/or camshaft.

Always position the chain wheel with the writing facing the
screw.
The curved side of the curved washer must always be
toward the screw head.
2. Insert the thrust washer, screw on the chain wheel.
Secure screw using LOCTITE 243.

Tightening torque:
screw

6.7.5 Installation
1. Slide the sleeves onto both right stud bolts.
2. Insert the timing chain rail.
In case of sand casting cylinders (blank no. 37-42.050) use
O-rings (compare section 6.7.3).
3. Position the new head seal.
Always use a new head seal and a new base seal.
4. Carefully position the complete cylinder head.
Do not damage the tension and guide rails!
5. Screw on the screws and nuts as follows:
• Lubricate the threads of the M8 tie rod (numbers 1 - 4) and
the two M6 hexagon recessed cap screws. (numbers 3a and
1a) and the support surfaces with MoS2 .
• Screw on the M6 screws and M8 nuts and tighten by hand.
• Screw on the M8 nuts in the order 3 - 2 ·4· 1 (see sketch)
with 22 Nm torque.
• Turn every nut at an angle of 80° +10" in the same order.
Never turn the nuts back!
• Tighten both M6 screws with 10+2 Nm.

6. Lubricate the camshaft bearings.

7. Insert the camshafts.
Intake camshaft: Designation (E)
Exhaust camshaft: Designation (A)

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 Cylinder Head

8. Insert the locking pins into the holes in the camshaft.

The locking pins for both camshafts must rest against the
cylinder head on the left next to the centre of the camshaft.
Now the camshafts are pre-adjusted.
9. Position the bearing covers correctly, screw on the bearing
covers and guide rails.
10. Inspect the bearing clearance.

Attention!
A new head seal and a new base seal must be used
after every removal of the cylinder head.

11. Screw on the chain adjuster.

The "0" mark on the toothed rack must point upward.
12. Tension the timing chain.
13. Check and adjuslvalve clearance, if necessary.

Tightening torque:
Bearing cover screws: 10+2 Nm
M8 collar nuts: 22 Nm + 80 +10"
0

M6x90 cylinder screws: 10+2 Nm

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 Valves

6.8 Valves
(1) Adjuster disc
(2) Bucket tappet
(3) Valve collet
(4) Spring plate
(5) Valve shaft seal
(6) Valve spring
(7) Valve spring support
(8) Valve stem guide (not replaceable)
(9) Valve (exhaust/intake)

Before removing the valves from the cylinder head, they must be
marked.
The markings (numbers) of the camshaft bearing covers are also
imprinted on the cylinder head.

1. Remove the bucket tappets and adjuster discs from the

vaives.
2. Use the valve spring tensioner and the valve spring
tensioner adapter (ST) (1) to press the spring plate and
spring together.
3. Remove the valve collets (2) (2 per valve).
4. Remove the spring plate and valve spring.
5. Remove the valve stem seal from the valve stem with the
ST2.
6. Remove the valve spring support.
7. Pull the valve down and out.

The valve stem guide and valve seat rings are not intended to be
replaced.

Attention!
Engine damage!
The cylinder head seal surface may not be turned out.
Otherwise the pistons might beat against the valves
and sustain damage.
Valve lengths may never be shortened.
Clean the seal surface with an oil stone.

8. If the valves are not being replaced, mark the locations in

the cylinder head on the valve discs.

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 u.:JL1 Valves

Inspection
Valve dimensions:

I~I
ON OFF
inmms in mms

IIBII~ (A) Valve plate diameter 23.9 - 24.1 20.4 - 20.6

1== C (B) Valve plate width 3.44 - 4.04 3.44 - 4.04
(C) Valve plate thickness 0.63 0.63
A Valve stem outside diameter 3.978 - 3.992 3.968 - 3.982
min. 3.95 min. 3.95
Valve stem guide inside 4.000 - 4.012 4.000 - 4.012
diameter max. 4.05 max. 4.05
Valve stem - valve stem 0.008 - 0.034 0.018 - 0.044
guide clearance max. 0.07 max. 0.09

Tappet clearance (while cold, 20±5 °C):

ON: 0.09-0.11 mm
OFF: 0.11 - 0.14 mm
Valve stem eccentricity:

maximum permissible valve stem eccentricity:

more than 0.01 mm

/ / ///////// ///

Bucket tappet:

Outer diameter: 24.967 - 24.980 mm

Clearance: 0.020 - 0.054 mm

Valve springs:

A
(A):
~ max. perm. inclination: ON 1.1 mm (1S)
OFF 1.1 mm (1S)
B (B):
Length, untensioned: ON 41.8 mm
OFF 41.8 mm
~~~~~ ~~
Length, installed: ON 33.5 mm
(valve closed) OFF 33.5 mm

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 !.JjJ: 1 Valves

6.8.1 Valve Seat

Carbon deposits must be removed from the valve plate and valve
seat.
Inspect the valve seat for pits and wear.
Measure the valve seat width:

Intake: 1 -2 mm
Exhaust: 1 -2 mm

Measurement procedure

The valve that corresponds to the given valve seat must be used
for the measurement process.
1. Apply touch-up paint to the valve plate.
2. Insert the valve into the cylinder head.
3. Press the valve against the valve seat with the valve stem
guide to receive an accurate result.
4. Measure the valve seat width.
The paint is worn off at all points where the valve plate and
valve seat surface come into contact.

If the valve seat is too wide, too narrow or not centred properly,
the valve seat must be reworked.
Fault correction
(A): The valve seat is centred, but too wide.

Valve or valve seat ring worn out.

Replace the cylinder head!
A

(8): The valve seat is centred, but too narrow.

Valve seat grinder set Goal

Use 45" grinder even
B valve seat width of
at least 1 mm

(e): Valve seat too narrow and near upper edge.

Valve or valve seat ring worn out.

Replace the cylinder head!

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 Valves

(0): Valve seat too narrow and near the lower valve plate edge.

Valve seat grinder set Goal

0

D Use 45 grinder even

valve seat width of
at least 1 mm

Condition (D) only occurs with the use/replacement of new

valves.

Regrinding
0
Grind the valve seat 45 with the specified valve seat grinder.
Always use the appropriate valve seat grinder.
1. Position the valve seat grinder (1) and centre it in the valve
guide.
2. Turn the valve seat grinder downward onto
the valve seat with even pressure (approx. 4 - 5 kg).
Avoid uneven grinding!

Grind the valve seats as follows:

Section Valve seat grinder

1 45 0

d: Intake: maximum diameter of 23.75 mm

Exhaust: maximum diameter of 20.25 mm

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 Valves

Fine grinding
After the valve seat has been reworked and the valve replaced, if
necessary, the valve seat and the valve plate must be lapped in.

Note:
No lapping material may come between the valve stem and valve
stem guide!

1. Apply some lapping agent to the valve plate.

2. Apply some molybdenum disulphide oil to the valve stem.
3. Insert the valve into the head.
4. With the help of an appropriate tool, turn the valve until the
valve and valve seat are evenly polished.
To achieve optimum lapping resuits, press the valve lightly
against the valve seat while alternatingly turning the tool left
and right between your hands.
5. Repeat the procedure until optimal results are achieved.
6. Completely remove the lapping agent from the valve plate
and valve seat after completing the lapping process.
Inspection
1. Apply touch-up paint to the valve plate.
2. Insert the valve into the cylinder head.
3. Press the valve against the valve seat with the valve stem
guide to receive an accurate valve seat measurement.
4. Measure the valve seat width again.
If the valve seat width does not correspond to the specified
value, regrind and lap the valve seat.
Installation

Note:
Valve collets may not be installed with a magnetic screw driver.
The valve collets will become magnetised and residue will cling
tightly. Installation is performed with a tweezers or screw driver
and some grease.

1. Remove any burs on the collet groove.

2. Position the valve spring supports.
3. Press the valve stem seal against the valve stem gUide with
the other side of the special tool.
4. Install valves.
5. Insert the valve spring and spring disk and pre-tension with
the special tool.
6. Install the valve collets.

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 U..J.X J Valves

7. Centre the valve spring and plate.

8. Install the bucket tappets according to the numbering.
9. Insert the camshaft and determine the valve clearance,
correct if necessary.

Installation
1. Lubricate the running path, insert camshafts.
"E" for intake, "A" for exhaust.

Attention!
The smallest amount of contamination can result in
stiffness in the camshafts. .

Clean meticulously.

2. Lubricate the running surface before inserting the camshaft

(j) 3 end brackets.
I
3. Position the camshaft end brackets with the guide rails
facing up, tighten.
Observe the numbers on the camshaft end brackets:
• Right exhaust camshaft: (1)
• Left exhaust camshaft: (2)
• Right intake camshaft: (3)
• Left intake camshaft: (4)
4. Tension the timing chain using the timing chain adjuster.
5. ;\djust the camshafts (see 6.7.5 "!nsta!!ation").
6. If necessary, screw in the oil drain plug and screw plug,
screw in dipstick.
7. Carefully pour 1.2 I of oil over the camshafts, bucket tappets
and timing chain wheels with timing chain.
(SAE 15W 50 API SG/SH or SAE 1OW -40 API SG/SH)

Note:
The motor oil must not run into the spark plug cavity.

8. Provide the valve cap with a seal and screw onto the
cylinder head with the decoupler elements.
9. Install the inspected/replaced spark plugs.
10. Remove the locking bolt (SP 1), screw in the cylinder screw
with a new seal.

Tightening torque:
Camshaft bearing cap nuts: 10+2 Nm
Cylinder screws: 8+2 Nm

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 !.J.:JL 1 Valves

6.8.2 Adjusting Valve Clearance

Note:
Only adjust the valve clearance on a cooled engine (approx. 20
0C)!

1. Remove the alternator cover and valve cap.

2. Set the engine to the top dead point with the help of the
alternator rotor (see 5.5 "Alternator").
3. Unscrew the cylinder screw (1), screw in the crankshaft
locking bolt (2) (ST 1)

4. Determine the clearance for all valves using a thickness

gauge, adjust if necessary.
Insert adjusting plates of the required thickness
to make the adjustment.

Valves Clearance in mms

Intake 0.09 - 0.11
Exhaust 0.12-0.14

Replacing the adjuster plates

The adjuster plates are available in thicknesses from 2.000 mm
to 3.300 mm in 0.025 mm steps.
The following basic needs of adjuster plates results from the stati-
stical evaluation of the MZ 125 engine assembly operations:

Thickness Thickness
Item number Item number
inmms inmms
2.100 3742102100 2.450 3742102450
2.125 3742102 125 2.500 3742102500
2.150 3742102150 2.550 3742102550
2.175 3742102175 2.600 3742102600
2.200 3742102200 2.650 3742102650
2.225 3742102225 2.675 3742102675
2.250 3742102250 2.700 3742102700
2.275 3742102275 2.725 3742102725
2.300 3742102300 2.750 3742102750
2.325 3742102325 2.775 3742102775
2.350 3742102350 2.800 3742102800
2.400 3742102400

Most of the required clearance adjustments can be carried out

using these plates:

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 U.JL1 Valves

1. Unscrew the M6 screw on the timing chain adjuster.

2. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws, remove the timing chain
adjuster from the cylinder.

3. Remove the guide rail and camshaft bearing caps.

Possible engine damage!

The nuts and sleeves must not fall into the timing chain shaft!

4. Remove the timing chain from the chain wheels.

5. Remove the camshafts.
6. Lift out the adjuster plates using a tweezers or screw driver.

7. Insert an appropriate adjuster plate into the cleaned bucket

tappet.
8. Lubricate the camshaft bearings, insert camshaft.
9. Install the bearing caps and gUide ails on top and screw on.
10. Inspect the bearing clearance.
11. Screw on the valve caps.

Tightening torque:
Decoupling elements: 8+2 Nm

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 !.J.:.t.J: ;1 Cylinders

6.9 Cylinders

6.9.1 Removal
1. Remove the cylinder head seal (1).
2. Remove the 2 fitting sleeves (2) for locking the cylinder
head from the cylinder.
3. Remove the cable (3) from the oil pressure sensor.

4. Pull the timing chain upward and remove the cylinder.

Protect the pistons against damage!

5. Remove the cylinder base seal.

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 6.9.2 Cylinder Dimensions
There are "A", "B" and "C" cylinders (A) in accordance with the
cylinder diameters.
The blank number (B) is placed on the cylinder:
37 - 42.050 Sand casting cylinders
• 37 - 42.053 Gravity die casting cylinders

The diameter of the cylinder hole (d) is measured at a distance of

(a) = 12 mm from the upper edge.

Cylinder dimension Diameter (d)

group inmms
A 59.988 - 59.996
B 59.997 - 90.003
C 60.004 - 60.012

6.9.3 Piston
Removal

1. Place cleaning paper or a clean rag into the crankshaft and

chain shaft.
2. Remove the wire retaining ring with a pliers.
The removed wire retaining rings must not be reused.
Always install new rings.

3. Debur the retaining ring groove and pin hole, if necessary.

The retaining ring groove must have sharp edges, other-
wise secure seating of the wire retaining ring is not guaran-
teed.
4. Slide out the piston pin from the piston.
Do not drive out the piston pin with a hammer!
5. Pull out piston.
6. Remove piston rings.
Carefully remove piston rings with a piston ring removal
pliers. Otherwise the piston rings may break.
Inspection
Remove the combustion residue from the piston head using a
brass brush. Inspect the piston for cracks. Inspect the piston
running surface for any pressure marks, replace piston if neces-
sary. Clean the piston ring grooves.

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 Cylinders

Piston installation clearance:

Piston installation clearance (difference of cylinder hole to piston
outside diameter): 0.020 - 0.040 mm.
Wear limit: 0.06 mm
The piston dimension group is placed on the piston base.
Piston ring grooves:
Measure the space between the piston rings and the piston ring
grooves with a thickness gauge.

Clearance Ring heights

Ring 1 0.015 - 0:060 mm 0.965 - 0.995 mm
(rectangular ring)
Ring 2 0.020 - 0.055 mm 1.170-1.190 mm
(tapered compres-
sion ring)
Oil wiping ring 0.020 - 0.055 mm 2.470 - 2.490 mm

Piston pin hole:

Check the inside diameter (0) of the piston pin hole.
Wear limit: 15.005 mm

Piston dimension group

The piston dimension group is placed on the piston base.

Usage in series up to engine no. MZ125 001994:

Piston dimension Piston 9015189000

group Dimensions in mms
A 59.960 - 59.963
B 59.964 - 59.969
C 59.970 - 59.975
0 59.976 - 59.980

Usage in series starting from engine no. MZ125 001995:

Piston 9015204000 (Mahle),

Piston dimension
Dimensions in mms
group
(without coating)
X 59.965 - 59.969
Y 59.970 - 59.975
Z 59.976 - 59.980

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 LkJ..C 1 Cylinders

Outside dimension:
Measure the outside diameter (0) of the piston at 90° to the
H1 piston pin axis and (L) = 7 mm above the lower edge of the
piston.

H2 Height H1: 3.8 mm

Height H2: 44.9mm

Piston pins:
In the event of blue discoloration, replace the piston pin and
inspect the lubrication system.
Measure the outside diameter of the piston pin.
Wear limit: 014.995 mm

6.9.4 Piston Rings

Inspection
Deformed piston rings result in higher oil consumption, local
over-heating and early wear.
The running surfaces must be clean.
Annular gap:
1. Slide every piston ring (1) approx.·20 mm into the cylinder
(2), at a ilght angle to the cylinder hole.
2. Measure the annular gap (L) with a thickness gauge.
Ring 1 (rectangular ring): 0.15 - 0.35 mm
Ring 2 (tapered compo ring): 0.20 - 0.40 mm
Ring 3 (oil wiping ring): 0.20 - 0.45 mm
If the gap size of one piston ring is outside of this tolerance, the
entire ring set must be replaced.

Thickness:
Ring 1 (rectangular ring): 0.965 - 0.995 mm
Ring 2 (tapered compression ring): 1.170 - 1.190 mm
Ring 3 (oil wiping ring): 2.470 - 2.490 mm

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 Cylinders

Installation

Note:
Piston rings are brittle and break easily.
Slide them on carefUlly, preferably using a typical installation tool!
The piston and piston rings must not be damaged.
The gap of the piston rings must be positioned 120 apart.
0

1. Install the oil wiping ring (3) with spring and wire ring.
2. Install the tapered compression ring (2).
Install the tapered compression ring such that the "0" desi-
gnation faces upwards (toward the piston head/valves).
3. Install the rectangular ring (1).

The piston rings must sit loosely on the piston.

6.9.5 Installation

Attention!
A new head seal and a new cylinder base seal must be
used after every removal of the cylinder.
Use new and appropriate wire retaining rings.

Piston / cylinder mating table

Cylinder dim. I Piston dim. group I Piston dim. group

'~"' I ""~ i "'~::'"
1. Slide the sleeves onto the left stud bolts.
2. Position the new cylinder base seal.
Always use a new cylinder base seal.
3. Cover the crankshaft well with cleaning paper.
4. Lubricate the piston pin, slide it through the piston and
connecting rod eye.
5. Snap the wire retaining ring for the piston pin into the ring
groove with the opening facing down.
Only use wire retaining rings with a wire diameter of 1 mm
for pistons A, S, C (9015189000).
Only use wire retaining rings with a wire diameter of 1.2 mm
for pistons X, Y, ZI
6. Lubricate the piston nunning surface of the measured
cylinder.
7. Slide the piston installation plate (ST 3) between the
housing and piston skirt such that the piston stands at a
right angle to the cylinder. This makes installation easier.
8. Carefully slide the cylinder over the piston and set it flat.
The piston rings may break!

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 I.J.:J.-L '1 Cylinders

6.9.6 Intake Manifold

Removal

1. Unscrew the 2 cylinder screws.

2. Remove the intake manifold and seal.

Installation

1. Inspect the seal (1), replace if necessary.

2. Inspect the intake manifold (2), replace if necessary.
3. Clean the seal surface (4) on the intake manifold and
cylinder head with an oil stone.
4. Position the seal and intake manifold, screw in the cylinder
screws (3).

Tightening torque:
Cylinder screws: 8+2 Nm

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 UJ_" -1 Transmission

6.10 Transmission

-,
91

6.10.1 Removal
The index lever catches in the star wheel.
If it does not need to be removed upon separation of the crank-
case halves, it must be locked in·place using the ST 9 "index lever
countei lock".
1. Insert the pin of the lever (1) of the ST into
a hole in the housing half.

2. Press back the index lever with the pin (2) of the ST 9 and
affix it tightly to the housing ledge next to the star wheel.

If the index lever counter lock ST is not used:

1. Unscrew the M6 pin (3) , remove the index lever (4) and
torsion spring (5).
2. Remove pinion and sleeve.
3. Completely remove the alternator cover.
4. Remove the sensor and stator.
5. Remove the curved washer.
6. Turn the crankshaft locking bolt back 10 turns so that the
crankshaft turns freely.

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 u.:.JL1 Transmission

7. Unscrew the 11 screws from the housing.

8. Bring the star wheel into idling position, such that it does not
touch the crankcase halves when they are separated.
In any other position, the star wheel does not fit through the
housing opening, the gears may jam.

9. Slide the "protective sleeve" ST 12 (1) onto the tail shaft.

10. Screw the "housing separation tool" ST 8 (2) onto the right
half of the housing using the 2 longer cylinder screws of the
alternator cover.
The tool must be positioned parallel to the housing. If
necessary, loosen a screw somewhat to align the tool.
11. Turn the M10 screw of the "housing separation tool" ST 8
and press off the right housing half.
The balance washers of the crankshaft, the balance shaft
and the driven shaft may remain attached to the housing
half. Loss possible!

12. Pull out the selector fork shaft 1(2) with the 5th and 6th gear
selector fork (4)
13. Pull out the selector fork shaft 2 (3) with the 1sl/3rd and
2nd/4th gear selector forks (5).
14. Pull out the camshaft controller (1)

15. Pull out the balance shaft (1) and crankshaft (2), remove the
balance washer.

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 Transmission

16. Remove the transmission from the left housing half with
light taps on the drive shaft using a plastic hammer.

The driven shaft (1) and drive shaft (2) can be further dismantled.
17. Remove the locking rings, washers and spacer washers,
pull of the gear wheels.

Risk of bums!
Only touch heated housing halves with suitable
protection gloves.

The ball bearing, needle bearing and shaft seal rings can now
also be replaced. .
To do this, heat the housing halves evenly to 1OO"C, for instance
with a heating plate.

Note:
The needle bearing of the clutch shaft must be removed to
dismantle the sliding bearing of the clutch activation shaft.

6.10.2 Inspection
Selector forks:
Inspect every selector fork for pit formation on the control gear
and dog pins.
Measure:

(1) Control gear guide, width 5 mm, minimum 4.85 mm

(2) Dog pin, diameter of 7 mm, minimum 6.8 mm oval

Test the movement of the selector fork shaft in the selector fork.
If the selector fork is stiff, replace this fork and/or the selector fork
shaft.

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 Transmission

Camshaft controller:
Inspect the tight seat of the star wheel.
Check the control cam grooves for wear.
Inspect the idling switch and flat seal ring for wear and proper
functioning.

Selector fork shafts:

Measure the thickness of the selector fork shaft.
Wear limit: 9.95 mm

Roll the selector fork shaft over a flat surface (such as a

surface plate), maximum warping 0.05 mm.
Replace the selector fork shaft if deformed.

Attention!
Never attem pt to straighten the selector fork shafts.

Gear wheels:
Inspect every gear wheel for wear and damage, look for indica-
tions of heat damage (blue discoloration).
Every control gear must slide easily along its shaft.
Check the grip of each gear into its opposite gear. Inspect the
teeth of the transmission gear wheels for pit formation and wear,
replace if necessary.
Inspect the shifting claws and apertures for rounded edges,
cracks and missing parts, replace if necessary.
o = OK: X = worn = replace.
Driven and drive shaft:
Measure the radial run-out deviation:
Driven shaft: maximum 0.05 mm
Drive shaft: maximum 0.05 mm

The shafts cannot be aligned. They must be replaced.

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 Transmission

6.10.3 Crankshaft and Balance Shaft

Inspection
Crankshaft:

(1) Measure the radial clearance on the connecting rod eye.

Maximum diameter of the connecting rod eye 15.035 mm

Measure the piston bolt (see 6.9.3 "Piston").

Determine the clearance.
Maximum clearance: 0.050 mm

(2) Inspect the grooves for the curved washers.

(3) Inspect the cone surface for wear and damage.
(4) Inspect true run.
Maximum clearance: 0.03 mm

(5) Measure the axial clearance of the connecting rod eye.

Maximum clearance: 0.5 mm

II

Balance shaft:

Inspect the bearing (1) and shaft for wear and proper true run.

Shock absorber:

(1) Inspect the teeth for wear and damage.

(2) Check the roundness and the wear of the shaft.

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 I.J..JL 1 Transmission

Adjusting the clearance between the engine housing

and crankshaft or balance shaft
After replacing the crankshaft and balance shaft and/or the
housing, the clearance between the crank and balance shafts
must be adjusted.
Clearance: 0.08 - 0.13 mm
This adjustment is made using thrust washers.
The difference in thickness between the washers may not be
greater than 0.1 mm on the left and right.
Do not use any washers of less than 0.8 mm.
1st option:

1. Screw the housing onto the crankshaft or balance shaft

without transmission.
2. Slide the shafts to one side, tum multiple times and
measure the clearance between the crankshaft and
housing.

2nd option:

1. Measure the housing clearance near the crankshaft bearing

using a depth indicator.
2. Measure the width of the crankshaft cheeks (e.g. with a
micrometer):
3. Housing clearance minus crankshaft cheek width = clea-
rance.

There must be a distance of at least (a) =0.85 mm on both sides

between the crank cheek of the crankshaft (1) and the balance
weight of the balance shaft (2).

®---~,_.
-~.\
~
a 6.10.4 Installation

1. Place the drive and driven shafts into the crankcase.

2. Insert the balance shaft and crankshaft.
3. Adjust clearance (see 6.10.3 "Crankshaft and Balance
Shaft").

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 !.J':;I1 Engine Installation and Adjustment

6.11 Engine Installation and Adjustment

Attention!
When installing the engine, the following parts must
be replaced:
• O-rings
• Seals
• Locking washers
• Locking rings

1. Use an oil stone to clean sealing material residue from the

sealing surfaces.
Do not use a sealing material remover.
2. Clean all parts thoroughly.

3. Thoroughly clean the oil channel of the balance shaft in the

housing.
4. Insert the crankshaft.
5. Do not forget the washer on the left side of the crankshaft
when replacing the seal ring.

6. Clean oil channels.

7. Install the idling switch.
8. Install the transmission.
9. The transmission shaft must rest against the inner bearing
rings.
Tap down using a plastic hammer, if necessary.

10. Clean oil away from the holes of the selector fork shafts in
the housing.
11. Insert the selector fork into the guide path of the control
gears:
• selector fork 2/4 (1) in drive shaft, (designation 033 toward
observer).
• selector fork 1/3 (2) in drive shaft, (designation 034 toward
observer) and
• selector fork 5/6 (3) with pin in drive shaft, (designation 031
toward observer).
12. Install the camshaft controller and insert the selector fork
into the camshaft controller.

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 /..ki..C j Engine Installation and Adjustment

13. Slide the selector fork shafts into the guides (4) + (5).
• Locking washer (6) toward observer.
• Phase of the pin (5) toward observer.
14. Turn the camshaft controller to the "idle" position.
Take note of the following:

15. Lubricate sliding bearing.

16. Install the crankshaft and balance shaft such that the gear
wheels interlock at the markings.

Attention!
The protective sleeve protects the crankshaft sliding
bearing. If it is not used, the sliding bearing may be
destroyed!

17. Slide the protective sleeve (2) onto the right tail shaft.
18. Apply the Loctite 518 sealant thinly and evenly to the seal
surfaces (1) of the left half of the housing.

Also spread the sealant around the holes for the bolts.
The sealant only hardens when a surface is pressed on.

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 UJL1 Engine Installation and Adjustment

19. Place the housing on.

20. Inspect the freedom of motion and gears.
21. Position the right half of the housing, screw on the housing
with the eleven screws, tightening in a crosswise manner.
22. Use brake cleaner and cleaning paper to remove the
sealant forced out.
23. Install the index lever and lock in the camshaft controller at
idle.
24. Install the screw plug with screen and the oil drain plug.
Use new seals.
25. If the gears do not turn easily, pull the crankshaft free by
hand.
26. Lightly oil the selector shaft and install.
27. Connect the selector shaft to the camshaft controller and
switch through the gears.
In doing so, turn the clutch and driven shafts against each
other so that the gears can snap together.
28. Place the transmission in neutral after checking the gears.
29. Lock the crankshaft at the top dead point using the cranks-
haft locking bolt (ST 1).
30. Mount the timing chain, install the guide rail and tension rail.
Apply screw locking agent LOCTITE 243 to the threading.
31. Connect the inspected and/or new starter free wheel to the
balance shaft.
32. Apply screw locking agent LOCTITE 243, fasten the free
wheel with washer and bolt.
Observe the specified torque!
33. Install the water pump with new O-rings.
Use new microencapsulated screws or screws with screw
locking agent.
34. Install the oil pump_
Use new microencapsulated screws or screws with screw
locking agent.
35. Slide the thrust washer onto the clutch shaft.
36. Install the clutch basket, slide on the washer.
37. Install the dog, slide on the washer.
38. Insert "Clutch" ST 5, tighten nut.
39. Hold the clutch by hand to prevent turning, remove the
special tool.
40. Place a dial gauge or depth indicator on the gear rim of the
clutch and determine the axial clearance.
Clearance: 0.05 - 0.15 mm
41. Re-insert the "Clutch" ST 5, remove the clutch basket,
washer and dog.
42. Adjust the axial clearance of the clutch basket using thrust
washers of the required thickness.
The thrust washers are placed under the clutch basket.

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 U..LC , Engine Installation and Adjustment

43. Lightly lubricate and install the clutch shaft.

44. Install the clutch basket and shock absorber.
45. Install the washer for the clutch.
46. Install the clutch dog.
47. Install the washer for the clutch, position a new locking
plate.
48. Insert "Clutch" ST 5, tighten nut.
49. Degrease the cone in the primary chain wheel with brake
cleaner. The engine must be in a vertical installation posi-
tion to prevent the brake cleaner from rinsing out the oil in
the sliding bearing.
50. Position the drive gear for the pumps, tighten the left-hand
threaded nut.
Observe the specified torque.
51. Tighten the nut for the clutch (58 + 4 Nm), turn the locking
plate;
52. Insert one clutch pressure rod into the clutch shaft, then the
ball and the second pressure rod.
53. Remove the "Clutch" ST 5, test the easy turning of the
clutch dog.
54. Insert the disc spring.
The inner circumference lies on the dog, the outer circumfe-
rence points to the plate packet.
55. Starting with an inner plate, insert 6 inner and 6 lining plates
in alternation.
56. Loosen the lock nut of the adjusting screw, snap the pres-
sure plate with gear onto the clutch packet.
57. Install the springs with screws and washers. Tighten in
crosswise manner.
Basic clutch adjustment:

Screw in the adjusting screw until the lever of the clutch activation
shaft is pressed approx. 15" to the rear.

58. Lock the adjusting screw with the locking nut.

(
This completes the basic clutch adjustment.

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 U)..C 1 Engine Installation and Adjustment

59. Insert the dowel pins into the pump shafts and mount the
pump drive wheels.
60. Open the primary drive again (left-hand threaded nut), if
necessary, to simplify the installation).
61. The shaft of the oil pump must be lifted so that the 3
washers and locking washer can be installed.
62. Install the ball, oil pressure adapter and spring.

Attention!
The seal must not change the cross-section
of the supply and drainage openings for the oil filter
and engine ventilation.

63. Position the new crankcase cover seal.

64. Position the crankcase cover, screw on with 14 cylinder
screws.
65. Installing the oil filter (see 6.2.4 "Oil Filter").
66. Install the cylinder with new base seal.
67. Screw in the chain adjuster, tension the timing chain.
68. Install valve cap.
69. Install the complete cylinder head with new head seal.
70. Install the engine into the chassis.

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 LkJf 1 Carburettor

6.12 Carburettor

Risk of fire and explosion!

A Fuel is a flammable liquid of hazard class A 1 and there-

fore an extreme fire risk. Fuel fumes are highly explo-
sive.
Exercise extreme care when working with fuel and
other easily flammable substances.
Only work with the engine switched off and in well
ventilated areas. Do not smoke, keep flames and
sparks away from the entire work area.
Safely remove drained or leaked flammable liquids
away from the work area.

(1) Shell
(2) Cylinder screw
(3) Spring washer
(4) Carburettor connection piece
(5) Carburettor

The carburettor must be free of wear and contamination for the

engine to function properly.
Contamination in the carburettor and the fuel system must be
removed before adjustments are made to the carburettor.

6.12.1 Settings
Fuel level
Proper functioning of the carburettor is only guaranteed when the
specified fuel level is maintained. The fuel level depends on how
the float is set.

1. Position the vehicle upright on the installation stand.

The carburettor must be positioned vertically.
2. Attach a fuel gauge to the drainage hose.
3. Open the filter valve, open the drainage plug and start the
engine.
4. Hold the fuel gauge vertical next to the carburettor.
Fill the carburettor and hose up to the same level. The fuel
level must be at the level of the housing joint.
5. Read the fuel level, adjust by bending the bracket on the
float support plate, if necessary (see 6.12.3 "Dismantling
and Inspecting", float).

Fuel level: 6 mm under the housing joint.

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 !.J.:t..r1 Carburettor

Idling speed
The nominal idling speed should be 1800+100 rpm.
The slide valve stop screw acts on the throttle slide valve to
prevent it from closing completely.
1. Start the engine and bring it to operating temperature.
2. Screw the slider valve stop screw in or out until the nominal
idling speed is reached.

Idle

Vllithout exhaust measurement:

1. Screw in the idling mixture screw up to the stop.
2. Then unscrew it 1.5 -2 turns.
3. Turn the slide valve stop screw until 1800+100 rpm is
reached.
4. Repeat this alternating procedure until the engine runs
properly.

Vllith exhaust measurement:

1. Run the engine until it reaches operating temperature.
2. Connect the exhaust measurement device according to the
manufacturer
If the depth of the measurement probe is insufficient,
connect an adapter to the exhaust silencer end which
ensures the proper depth.
3. Turn the idling mixture screw until the engine runs properly,
in compliance with a maximum CO emission of 4.5 %.
4. Set the idling speed to 1800+ 100 rpm.

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 Carburettor

6.12.2 Removal

Environment!
Leaking or drained fuel must be collected immediately
and stored in a suitable location until final disposal.

1. Let the engine cool, if necessary, close the filter valve.

2. Remove the fuel tank.
3. Place a suitable container under the vehicle, connect the
drainage hose.
4. Open the screw, let the carburettor drain.
5. Remove the fuel hose from the carburettor.

6. Unscrew the starting carburettor.

7. Unscrew seal cap (1).

8. Pull out the throttle slide valve (2).

9. Open the shell on the intake pipe (rear) and the shell on the
carburettor connection piece (front).
10. Pull the carburettor away from the intake manifold and
intake pipe, pull it out on the front right.
11. If the carburettor connection piece must be removed,
unscrew the 2 cylinder screws.

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 I.J.:.JL1 Carburettor

6.12.3 Dismantling and Inspecting

"-..

:I ~l
I
I
f-@
I I
I I
~ I
I

:J
(1) Starting jet
(2) Seal, float chamber
(3) Float chamber
(4) Screws
(5) Screw
(6) Float
(7) Pin
(8) Screw with seal ring
(9) Slide valve stop screw
(10) Idling mixture screw
(11) Idling jet
(12) Main jet mount with needle jet
(13) Main jet
(14) Carburettor needle valve
(15) Screw with plate
(16) Plate
(17) Starting carburettor, complete
(18) Throttle slide valve, complete
(19) Needle jet

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 Carburettor

Removal

Note:
Never clean the jets with hard objects.
Changes to the jet cross-section increase fuel consumption.
Use a petroleum-based solvent for cleaning. Blow through all
channels with compressed air.

1. Thoroughly clean the carburettor.

2. Unscrew the four screws on the underside.
3. Remove the top part of the housing.
4. Remove all components, clean thoroughly and inspect.

Float

Note:
Never apply compressed air while the float is still in the float
chamber.

(1) Float
(2) Main jet with mount
(3) Carburettor needle valve
(4) Pin

1. Pull out pin.

2. Remove the float and carburettor needle valve.
3. Inspect parts.

Always replace the carburettor needle valve and the valve seat
as a set.

4. Attach the needle valve to the bracket on the float mounting

plate (1).
5. Install the float, slide in the pin.
The float mounting plate should touch the needle valve but
not press it down.
6. Measure the distance between the parting joint of the carbu-
rettor housing and the upper edge of the float, adjust if
necessary (2).
Distance: 20+ 1 mm

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 u:.t.. C 1 Carburettor

If the fioat height does not match the specified value, inspect the
needle valve and valve seat, replacing if necessary.
If both parts are in good condition, bend the bracket of the fioat
mounting plate until the value is set correctly.
Starting jet
Inspect for wear and contamination.
Clean if necessary.

Carburettor needle valve

Inspect for wear and contamination.
Check the O-ring.

6.12.4 Installation
Always use new seals.
1. Insert the plate (7) and screw on with the screw (6).
2. Scre'v"v in all jets.

(1) Idling mixture screw

(2) Idling jet
(3) Needle jet
(4) Main jet with jet mount
(5) Carburettor needle valve
(6) Plate screw
(7) Plate
(8) Slide valve stop screw

3. Screw the starting jet into the fioat chamber.

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 Carburettor

4. Insert the float, slide the pin through the mount.

5. Measure the distance from the float to the edge of the
housing, adjust if necessary.
6. Screw the two housing halves together.

7. Assemble the injector needle.

(1) Locking washer

(2) Seal
(3) Injector needle

The injector needle normally hangs in the 3rd (middle) notch.

Other settings:
Injector needle hung deeper (1 st to 3rd notch):
Mixture lower in fuel
Injector needle hung higher (5th notch):
More fuel containing mixture
8. Insert the injector needle (1) into the throttle slide valve,
insert the E-ring (2).
9. Install the carburettor.

10. Pull the end of the throttle bowden cable out as far as
possible.
11. Press the spring back toward the sealing cap and hold it
there.
12. Attach the end of the throttle bowden cable to the throttle
slide valve.
13. Insert the throttle slide valve into the carburettor, screw on
the sealing cap.

14. Inspect the a-ring under the starting carburettor housing,

replace if necessary.
15. Compress the spring of the starting carburettor, connect the
starter bowden cable to the starter piston.
16. Install the starting carburettor in the carburettor.
17. Inspect the fuel level.
18. Connect the overflow and ventilation hoses.
19. Adjust the play in throttle bowden cable.
20. Adjust the play in the starting carburettor bowden cable.
21. Functional test with of the idling and the idling speed
(see 6.12.1 "Settings").

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 D.:.tL1 Carburettor

Ventilation hose

(1) Carburetlor
1 (2) Ventilation hose

The ventilation hose must be run as shown in the sketch.

It may not be pinched. The end must not extend past the under-
~~------;----{2 side of the engine.

Overflow hose

The overflow hose must be run as shown in the sketch.

It may not be pinched, the end must not extend past the under-
side of the engine.
(1) Carburetlor overflow hose
(2) The top of the hose should not be above
the lower edge of the carburetlor parting joint near the hose
clamp
(3) Overflow hose clamped between the
frame pipe and intake muffler.

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 I..L.LC' Notes

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 u:JL1 Index

7 Index

Brakes 71 Driven and drive shaft 180

1 -10 Rear 88 Dust cover 42
Bucket tappet 164 Dust ring 62
80 kmlh variant Bypass opening 140
124
E
C
A Earth cable 120, 134
Cables Eccentric disc 98
Add brake fluid Maintenance 39 Edge protection strip 35
Adding fluid 89 Camshaft 160 Electrical installation 113
Adhesive pads 94 Camshaft controller 180 Electrolyte 114
Adjuster plates 169 Carburettor 188 Emergency oil supply 140
Adjusting valve clearance 169 Carburettor needle valve 192, 193 Engine 137
Adjustment Cell rubber strip 115 Engine inspection 137
Front wheel brake 72 Chain 107 Engine installation 183
Air filter 45 Replacing 108 Equalisation hole 72
Cleaning 45 Chain adjuster 156 E-ring 194
Alternator 127 Chain lock 108 Exhaust mount plate 53
Alternator block diagram 127 Chain maintenance 107
Annular gap 174 Chain plate 104
Chain set 108 F
Chain slack 107
B Chain slider 109 Fan 135
Chainwheel 160 Filling device 74
Balance shaft 181 Circuit diagram 113 Filter 26
Banjo bolt 81 Clutch 43, 144 Filter valve screen 26
+.....
O ....... i........1• • ...
~ +......""....+
.-li, .... <oa Adjustment 144 Fine grinding 167
UCl,;::lI ..........IUL....11 g .... Ju~u 11"lJ11\ 'w
Battery 114 Inspection 148 Flasher relay 130
charge 116 Removal 146 Float 192
replace' 115 Clutch activation lever 145 Float mounting plate 192
Battery output data 114 Clutch basket 148 Foot rest rubber piece 48
Bleed the brake system 75 Clutch bowden cable 39 Foot rests 48
Bolster plate 73 Coil resistance 121 front 48
Bonding sheet 115 Compression pressure 137 rear 48
Bowden 39 Compression springs 148 Fork bridges 65
Bowden cables 39 Connecting part 40 Fork spars 61
Brake Coolant 55 Free wheel 151
front 71 Filling 55 Front 37
Brake caliper 78, 80, 94, 95 Refilling 55 Front panelling 28
Brake disc 85, 106 Cooling system 55 Front wheel 82
Inspection 85 Crankshaft 181 Replacing 83
Brake fluid 73, 89 Cylinder head 155 Front wheel mud guard
Inspection 73 Cylinder head seal 171 Guide eyelet 37
Level 89 Cylinders 171 Fuel 25
Replacing 74, 90 Fuel filter 27
Brake hose 81, 93 Fuel level 188
Brake lever 97 0 Fuses 113
Play 97 Fan fuse 113
Brake light switch 43 Decoupling element 155 Indicator fuse 113
Brake pads 79, 96 Diodes 136 Main fuse 113
Brake system 75 Dog 104, 149
Bleeding 91 Dog rubber piece 104

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 U-'f J Index

Code number 33 Rear 38

G Lock maintenance 33 Rear wheel 101
Locking 24 Brake disc 106
Gear Locking screw 62 Replacing 102
Gearwheels 180 Locking tool 149 Wheel bearing 105
Gearshift 150 Lubricant 15 Rear wheel brake
Guide rail 158, 159 Lubrication points 15 Adjustment 98
Rear wheel mud guard 38
Rectangular ring 174
H M Regrinding 165
Regulator/Rectifier 125
Hand brake lever 42 Main brake cylinder 76, 100 output data 125
Handlebar 39, 41 Main jet 192 Relay pocket 130
Headlight 28, 31 Manifold 54 Reset button 35
adjust 32 Mirror 39 Retaining strap 115
Housing 30 Muffler 52 Rotor 128
Headlight casing 31 Locking screw 52 Rubber 40
Headlight control 34 Rubber grip
Headlights left 40
Front ring 30 0 Rubber grips
Hermetic beilows 73 right 40
Horn 133 Oil change 138
Housing separation tool 178 Oil channels 183
Oil filter 140 S
Oil level check 138
Oil pressure 142 Screw plug 62, 139
Oil pressure regulator 146, 154 Seal coilar 77, 100
Idle 189 Oil pressure switch 141 Seal set 77, 100
Idler control 34 Oil pump 152 Sealing cap 190
Idling speed 189 Oil return plug 139, 141 Seat 23
Ignition 33, 36, 117 Oil types 138 Selector fork shafts 180
Ignition box 122 Oil volumes 139 Selector forks 179
Ignition cable 119 Oil wiping ring 174 Selector shaft 150
Ignition coil Opening temperature range 58 Sensor 124
120 Overflow hose 195 Sensor adjustment 129
Ignition lock break-off screws 36 Shock 38
Index lever counter lock 177 Shock absorber 46, 149, 181
Indication 34 P Adjustment 47
Injector needle 194 Shut-off relay 131
Injector needle settings Pinion 109 Side panelling 24
194 Piston instailation clearance 173 Side stand 49, 50
Inner piates 148 Piston rings 174 Side stand switch 49
Insert 31 Pistons 172 Sleeves 171
Inspect 31, 64 Plastic caps 37 Sliding pipe 64
Inspection 13 Plastic rivets 38 Spacer sleeve 115
Inspection window 77 Pressing tool 67 Steering bearing 66
Instrument mount 35 Pressure pins 42 Spark 119
Instruments 34 Pressure rod 97 Spark plug 118
Intake manifold 176 Pressure rods 149 Spark plug air gap 119
Intake muffler 51 Pump drive gear 147 Spark plug inspection 119
Intake pipe 45 Pumps 152 Special tools 15
Speedometer 34
Wedge base bulbs 34
L R Speedometer drive 87
Speedometer shaft 34
Lift 45 Radiator 57 Spoke 112
Lining plates 148 Radiator cap 56 Spoke fitting 111
Lock set 33 Opening pressure 56 Spoke fitting values for SM 112
Radiator hoses 56 Spoke fitting values for SX 111

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 /..)~jX 1 Index

Spoke nipple 111 Tank cap Tyres 110

Spring length 46 Inspection 27
Single rider 46 Tapered compression ring 174
Two riders 46 Tappet clearance 164 U
Spring preload 46 Technical data 9
Starter 39, 134 Telescopic fork 60 Upright pipe 63
Starter relay 130 Dismantling 62
Starting carburettor 190 Filling volume 60
Starting carburettor lever 44 Fork oil 60 V
Starting jet 193 Inspection 64
Stator 127 Thermal switch 132 Valve
Steering bearing 66 Inspection 132 Dimensions 164
Storage tank 72, 92 Thermal switch operating tempera- Valve seat 165, 166
Hose 92 ture limits 132 Valve train 158
Swing bearing 69 Thermostat 58 Valves 163
Swing bearing pin 69 Inspection 58 Ventilation hose 195
Swing fork 69 Throttle 39
Swingarm 42 Throttle slide valve 190
Switch 44 Throttle twist grip 40 W
Switch/mount 44 Tightening torques 18
Timing chain 158, 159 Warning light "Oil pressure too low"
Top dead centre 155 34
T Transmission 177 Warning light for cooling system
Turn 30 34
Tail 32 Turn indicator light 34 Water pump 153
Taillight Turn indicator lights Wear marks 79, 96
Bulb 32 Change the bulb 30 Wheel bearing 86, 105
Tank 27 Tyre pressure 110

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 Index

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