Technical Sketch
Woven, No Waist Seam, Floor Length, Very Flared, Armhole Princess Seams With Center Front,
Front Seam, Center Back Seam, Full Flared Sleeves, Curved V-Neck Deep, Back Straight Seam
with No Back Vent and Centered Zipper 14" Closure Length, Flounce, In-Seam Pockets, Neckline
Facing
Sewing Instructions
Sewing In-Seam Pockets
- Pin the pocket pieces to the garment, right sides together, matching notches, then stitch at
5/8" (pic. 1).
- Press the pockets in the opposite direction, so that the right sides are all facing outwards, then
topstitch pocket bags (pic. 2 and 3).
- Pin the Front and Back garment sections together (with attached pockets), right sides together,
matching notches and aligning the seams. Stitch the side seams till the pocket and around the
curve of the pocket, then back down the side seams (pic. 4).
(Note: if there is a side zipper, stitch the right side seam, then stitch the left side seam, leaving an
opening above the zipper notch).
- Press the seams and pockets towards the center front of the garment (pic. 5).
Sewing Center Back Zipper
- Pin Back sections together at Center Back. Stitch from the zipper notch down to the hem, then
machine baste the zipper placket opening along seamline.
- Press seams open.
- Measure the width of the zipper tape, then divide it in half. Mark each side of the seam line,
using this measurment.
- On the wrong side of the garment, position the zipper face down on the seam line with the
zipper tape edges along the markings.
- From the right side, using a zipper foot and starting at the seam line and 1/8" from the zipper
stop, stitch over approximately 3/8". Pivot and continue stitching to the top (topstitch the placket
from bottom to top, using the seam edge as your guide).
- Repeat on the other side.
- Pull threads to inside and secure by tying a knot.
- Remove basting stitches.
Setting the Sleeves
- Easestitch the sleeve cap between small circles, leaving long thread tails. Stitch at 1/2" (1.3
cm), using long machine stitches, then stitch 2nd row 1/4" (6mm) away inside seam allowance.
- Stitch the underarm seams.
- Use 5/8" (1.5cm) narrow hem at lower edge: turn the hem in, then press. Ease in fullness if
necessary. Open out hem, turn in again so that raw edge is aligned along with the crease, then
press. Turn in along the crease and stitch.
- Insert one sleeve into the armhole, right sides together, matching notches and seams. Match
the center sleeve notch with the shoulder seam. Adjust the ease of the sleeve cap, by pulling
thread tails, then baste and stitch.
- Stitch again 1/4" (6mm) away inside the seam allowance. Serge the seam. Press seam towards
the bodice.
Neckline
Apply fusible interfacing to the wrong side of neck facings, following manufacturer's instructions.
- With right sides together, pin Front Neck Facing to Back Neck Facing at shoulders, then stitch.
Press.
- Finish facing’s outer edge.
- With right sides together, pin facing to neck edge of the garment, matching notches, centers
and seams, then stitch. Trim. Clip into the curves.
- Understitch facing, then turn facing to inside. Press.
- Tack at shoulders.
Attaching Flounce
- Stitch flounce sections together at sides.
- Staystitch the upper edge of flounce, stitching 1/8" (3mm) from the seamline inside seam
allowance.
- Stitch 1/4" (6mm) from the flounce’s lower edge, using basting stitches and leaving long thread
tail. Turn up 5/8" (1,5cm) hem, turning in 1/4" (6mm) on raw edge. Pull thread to ease in fullness,
then stitch. Press.
- Pin flounce to the lower edge of the garment, matching centers and aligning side seams. Clip
flounce where necessary. Baste, then stitch. Trim. Press up.
