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Ender 3S1 Ultimate Guide

This document provides a definitive guide to achieving a perfect first layer on an Ender 3 S1 printer. It consists of 4 phases: 1) reducing Y-axis bend, 2) tramming the bed manually or with a wizard, 3) manually editing the mesh points, and 4) remounting the CR touch probe to compensate for Y-axis bend. Completing all phases should result in a perfect first layer. Various files and STLs are referenced to aid in the process.

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Laila
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
51 views4 pages

Ender 3S1 Ultimate Guide

This document provides a definitive guide to achieving a perfect first layer on an Ender 3 S1 printer. It consists of 4 phases: 1) reducing Y-axis bend, 2) tramming the bed manually or with a wizard, 3) manually editing the mesh points, and 4) remounting the CR touch probe to compensate for Y-axis bend. Completing all phases should result in a perfect first layer. Various files and STLs are referenced to aid in the process.

Uploaded by

Laila
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Ender 3 S1 – Perfect First Layer – Definitive Guide.

Prerequisites: This Guide is using the Ender 3 S1 – Professional Firmware by mriscoc @


https://github.com/mriscoc/Ender3V2S1 and will be used throughout.

Test STLs: All the Test .STL will be included in the model file upload but original links will be
provided below.

Issue: The fundamental flaw is that the Ender 3S1 had a titled Y-Axis Beam as well as an
inaccurate probe. The best way to fix this is to *attempt* a new Y-bed but has since proven
difficult through Creality’s less than ideal customer service. Your printer may suffer both or one
of these issues, but having to search in different corners of the internet may prove difficult so I
thought I’d collate all the work into 1 finding.

Recommendation: While not strictly necessary I would recommended the 18mm silicone bed
spacers when following this guide.

Phase 1: - Reducing Y Bend


While this phase will not solve the issue, it may reduce the impact on your prints.

 Simply loosen the 6 bolts holding the beam to the bottom platform, Tighten them back
to an acceptable tightness (once you feel resistance will do anymore and you’ll not solve
anything)

Phase 2: Tramming Issues


the professional firmware includes a tramming wizard that assists you when tramming the bed,
it performs a calculation and indicated which corner to raise. IGNORE IT. you will not get a level
bed following this method. Your options are:

1) Return to the original paper method of checking each corner (quickest Route) (Skip to
Phase 4) if intending to use the CR Touch Mod)
OR
2) Use the tramming wizard, but take note of the Z values before the calculations are
performed, your aim is to get them to the exact same number (irrespective of whether
the wizard states). To achieve this, you will:
a. Reset Z-Offset to Zero
b. Perform tramming wizard taking note of the 4 corner Z values.
c. By selecting any of the points (closest one to 0) you will work to that number on
all corners.
d. If a corner is above that value lower that corner
e. If a corner is below that value raise that corner
f. Rerun the tramming wizard to see new Z values
g. Repeat until all numbers are the same (the wizard will show a tolerance of 0 on
all corners)
h. Set Z-Offset following Wizard included in professional Firmware
i. Create a 3x3 mesh of the new bed
Your bed is still not level but as close as that wizard will allow. To further level the bed. Run the
3x3 perfect 1st Layer gcode. Made available by 3D Journey.

3) After the print has complete identify based on the 4 corners which need raising or
lowering. (You may ignore the 4 inner and centre squares)
4) After adjusting a corner run the print again until all the corners are similar (they will
never be exact, but a rough closeness will do in preparation for Phase 3)

Phase 3: Manual Mesh Edit


Using the same 3x3 perfect first layer gcode we reprint it, except this time we will update the
mesh points individually.

The following start GCode was used for UBL:


G29 L0
G29 A

 Note there is to be no GCode that makes a mesh at the start of the print, or adjusts it like
a tilt function

It is vital that you write down the original mesh on paper, so you may follow your steps if you
would like to undo something,
1) Print the 3x3 GCode
2) Identify which on the 9 squares need to adjusted.
3) Write down your estimation of whether that square needs to be raised or lowered and
by how many mm (in the format ↑0.02 or ↓0.04)
4) Adjust that individual mesh value within the firmware by the written amount. Advanced
-> Mesh Levelling -> Edit Mesh
To manipulate the mesh in the editor you manipulate X and Y values to represent a specific
side, once selected you adjust the z offset value.
Back Left X=0 Y=2 Back Middle X=1 Y=2 Back Right X=2 Y=2
Middle Left X=0 Y=1 Middle Middle X=1 Y=1 Middle Right X=2 Y=1
Front Left X=0 Y=0 Front Middle X=1 Y=0 Front Right X=2 Y=0
5) Save Bed Mesh
6) Repeat the process by printing the 3x3 and adjusting the mesh (if you’ve gone too far
you can undo the steps by tracing back your adjustments from your written notes)
You should now have a perfect mesh and 1st Layer and can print until your heart’s content.
However, if you cannot achieve a perfect mesh (where adjustments by 0.01mm go from don’t
stick to under extrusion) Go to Phase 4.

Phase 4: CR Touch Probe Remount


Another step to improve the accuracy of your probing is to relocate the CR touch. This will
allow you to compensate for the Y bend. The Print is provided by JHenley01.

1) Print the Ender 3 S1 Zero Offset CR Touch Mount


2) Attach it in replacement of your original backplate (may have to remove left fan shroud )
3) Adjust the X and Y offset in the menu Advanced -> Probe Settings ->
4) You can either follow the recommended Offsets by JHenley01 (X=-46.8, Y=0) or calculate
them yourself. To do so
a. Mark a point on a pit of paper
b. Align this point with the nozzle of your extruder.
c. Extend the CR touch probe. And mark that point on the same paper
d. Draw a horizontal line from the nozzle point to inline with the probe point
e. Draw a vertical line from the probe point to where that line intersects.
f. You will have two measurements your X and Y Offsets.
1 - User FarfarsPung on Printables

5) Create a new mesh


6) Possible Phase 2&3 work required
Having completed all these steps should bring you to a perfect 1st layer. If after this you
still haven’t achieved this, you may want to contact your seller and engage in after sales.
Anything after this may be require more extreme measures of replacement parts.
I Hope this has been helpful!! A huge acknowledgement to the Printable users mentioned
throughout this page and the many users on the ender 3 v2/s1 Facebook group.

File Author URl


Perfect 1st layers! Ender 3 3D Journey https://www.printables.com
v2, Ender 3S1, Ender 3S1 Pro /model/213992-perfect-1st-
- 3x3 Calibration Bed layers-ender-3-v2-ender-
Leveling Squares optimized 3s1-ender-3s1-
for Professional firmware
with UBL
Ender 3 S1 Zero Offset CR JHenley01 https://www.printables.com
Touch Mount /model/257460-ender-3-s1-
zero-offset-cr-touch-
mount/comments
Professional Firmware mriscoc https://github.com/mriscoc/
Ender3V2S1
18 mm Stable Hotbed Tool, Amazon https://www.amazon.co.uk/
Heat-Resistant Silicone dp/B0BL6KLKRD?psc=1&ref
Buffer for 3D Printers =ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_de
tails

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