Fabric Structure & Design
Weave and Color Effect
D e f i n i t i o n : Ornamentation of any fabric is necessary to improve its value
addition and, in this regard, any weave can be ornamented in a variety of ways
to improve its appearance. The effects obtained by colouring a basic weave in a
particular proportion in warp and weft way (keeping other factors constant) is
known as colour-and-weave effects. Callaway Textile Dictionary defines the
colour and weave effect as “ A woven pattern in two or more colours produced by
a combination of colour and weave but in appearance usually quite distinct from
either the order of colouring or the weave.” To obtain the weave and colour effect
minimum of two colours is required. They are very frequently used in woollen
and worsted fabrics.
Classification:
1) Simple warping and simple wefting , 1L-2D, 1L-2D
2) Simple warping and compound wefting , 1L-2D,1L-2D-2D-2L
3) Compound warping and simple wefting
4) Compound warping and compound wefting
Warping Order / Warp Pattern : Can be expressed in the following ways:
White → 2
Red → 4
White → 1 2
Red → 2 3
Repeat Size: 28
Or,
White 2 1 8
Red 4 2 20
= 28
3
2
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Fabric Structure & Design
Method of Construction/Development weave and colo ur effect:
1) Indicate the base weave very faintly.
2) Indicate the sequence of colo urs for warping order above or
below the weave diagram.
3) Indicate the sequence of colo urs for picking order on the
left or right of the weave diagram.
4) Fill up (◼) the dark warp colour where a warp yarn is above
a weft yarn.
5) Fill up (◼) the dark weft colo ur where a weft yarn is above
a warp yarn.
6) Finally, the ends of the colour pattern will be the least
common multiple of the warp of base weave repeat size and
warp colour plan. Similarly, the picks of the colour pattern
will be the LCM of the weft of base weave and weft colour
plan.
Let, Base Weave: 1 plain
1
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 1 Black → 1
White → 1 White → 1
__________________ __________________
2 2
After combining the above three elements the following weave
and colour effects can be obtained.
W
B
W
B
B W B W
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Fabric Structure & Design
Name of the colour
Base Weave Order Of Coloring
effect
Continuous Line Effect
1/1 Plain DL
(Horizontal)
Continuous Line Effect
01. (Vertical) or Hairline 1/1 Plain DL, LD
effect
Continuous Line Effect
3/1 Z-Twill DL, LD
(Vertical)
1/1 Plain DD LL
02. Crow' s foot
2/2 Matt DDDD LLLL
2/2 Z-Twill LDDL, LD
03. Bird's eye Motif/crepe LDDL
weave DDLL
3/1 Z-Twill LD
04. Stepped Twill
2/2 Z-Twill DL
Dog' s Tooth /
05. 2/2 Twill DDDD LLLL
Hound' s Tooth
06. Shepherd' s Check 2/2 Twill DDDDDD LLLLLL
4/4 Z-Twill DDDDDD LLLLLL
07. Al Over Effect
4/4 S-Twill 6D 6L, 6L6D
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Fabric Structure & Design
Crow ' s Foot Effect:
Let,
1
Base Weave: plain
1
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 2 Black → 2
White → 2 White → 2
__________________ __________________
4 4
Crow's foot effect:
Crow's foot is a small colour and weaves effect
in a fabric which is produced on a plain weave (or matt) surface
in a specific order of colo uring in warp and weft.
In the figure, here base weave is 1/1 plain and
the colouring is 2: 2 (Black: White). Repeat size 44.
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Fabric Structure & Design
Birds Eye Effect:
Let,
Base Weave: Crepe (By reversing method)
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
White → 2 Black → 2
Black → 2 White → 2
__________________ __________________
4 4
Birds Eye Effect:
Birds Eye effect is the term applied to patterns in
which the surface of the cloth is covered with distinct , small and
separated from each other spots or patches of colour.
In figure-1, here base weave is 2/2 Z-twill and the
order of colouring is 2: 2 (Black: White). Repeat size 4 4.
In figure-2, here base weave is 2/2 Z-twill and the
order of colouring is 1: 2: 1 (White: Black: White). Repeat size
44.
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Fabric Structure & Design
Dog ' s Tooth / Hound ' s Tooth Effect:
Let,
Base Weave: 2 / 2 Z - Twill
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 4 Black → 4
White → 4 White → 4
__________________ __________________
8 8
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Fabric Structure & Design
Dog's Tooth Effect:
Dogs Tooth is a small colour and weave effect in a fabric
produced by a combination of 2/2 Z -twill and the order of
colouring is 4: 4 (Dark: Light)
In the figure, here base weave is 2/2 Z -twill and the order of
colouring is 4: 4 ( Black: White )
If coarser yarns are used the effect is known as Houndstooth
and If finer yarns are used the effect is known as Dogs tooth
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Fabric Structure & Design
effect. Normally, the end-use of these effects is found in woollen
and furnishing areas if produced in coarser cotton.
Shepherd Check Effect:
Let,
Base Weave: 2/2 Z - Twill
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 6 Black → 6
White → 6 White → 6
__________________ __________________
12 12
Shepherd Check Effect:
Sheppard Check is a small check effect
developed in black and white generally by groups of 6 or 8
threads of two-colour and in twill weaves. Commonly 2/2 Z-twill
and 6:6 order of colouring are used as a result the design
becomes 1212 in size.
In the figure, here base weave is 2/2 Z-twill
and the order of colouring is 6: 6 ( Black: White )
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Fabric Structure & Design
Md. Ruhul Amin - 60 -
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Fabric Structure & Design
Stepped Twill Effect:
Let,
Base Weave: 2/2 Z - Twill
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 1 Black → 1
White → 1 White → 1
__________________ __________________
2 2
Stepped Twill Effect:
Stepped twill is a small motif design with the
base weave 2/2 Z-twill and an arrangement of colo ur is DL. Worsted
suitings are produced in this way and are the most popular.
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Fabric Structure & Design
All Over Effect :
Let,
Base Weave: 4/4 Z – Twill
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
White → 3 White → 3
Black → 6 Black → 6
White → 3 White → 3
__________________ __________________
12 12
All Over Effect:
The allover effect is a small check effect
with the base weave 44 Z-twill and the order of colouring is
3:6:3 (Light: Dark: Light). So the repeat size will be the
L.C.M. of 8 and 12, i.e. 24 24.
In the figure, here base weave is 4/4 Z-twill
and the order of colouring is 3:6:3 (Light: Dark: Light).
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Fabric Structure & Design
All Over Effect
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Fabric Structure & Design
W e a v e a n d c o l ou r e f f e c t s ( S i m p l e wa r p i n g a n d s i mp l e we f t i n g )
Warp Pattern: Weft Pattern:
Black → 1 Black → 1
White → 1 White → 1
__________________ __________________
2 2
W
B
W
B
W
B
W
B
Weave: Diamond (88) B W B W B W B W
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Fabric Structure & Design
Show weave and colour effect from the following conditions: Weave: 1/1
plain weave, warping order (50% 1D-1L + 50% 2D-1L), Picking order
(2D-1L).
Solution:
Assume that the no of ends of the colour pattern =2X.
Hence the no of ends for the ratio of 1D-1L will be=X and similarly the no
of ends for the ratio of 2D -1L will be=X
The value of X will be the least common multiple of the weave repeat ed in
the warp direction and warp colour plan.
The repeat size of 1/1 plain weave within 2(warp direction) ×2(weft
direction).
Considering 50% warping order 1D-1L, the LCM of 2 and 2 equals 2 i.e.
the value of X will be 2 or Multiple of 2.
Similarly considering 50% warping order 2D1L, the LCM of 2 and 3 equals
6 i.e. the value of X will be 6 or Multiple of 6.
To fulfil the condition, the value of the X must be the greater one i.e. 6 .
Hence the no of end s of the colour pattern will be 2×6=12.
The no of picks in the colour pattern will be the least common multiple of
the weave repeat in the weft direction and a repeat of the weft colour plan
i.e. LCM of 2 and 3 =6 .
So the final repeat for weave and colour will be 12×6.
Now the graphical representation of the final weave and colo ur will be as
below:
L
D
D
L
D
D
D L D L D L D D L D D L
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Fabric Structure & Design
S t r i p e a n d c h e c k t h e we a v e
Some fabrics are made with longitudinal and cross stripe s of different
widths and different weaves on the surface. Combination of longitudinal
and cross stripes on the fabric forms checks. These weaves are constructed
based on two or more fundamental weaves or their derivatives. The method
of calculation and construction of such fabrics are given below.
C a l c u l a t i o n a n d c o n s t r u c t i o n o f f a b r i c wi t h l o n g i t u d i n a l s t r i p es
In this case, the warp repeat depends on the number of stripes , the width of
each stripe, the warp density and the stripes weave. To calculate the number
of warp threads in each stripe the warp density is multiplied by the width
of each stripe. The numbers received are corrected to get a whole number
of repeats of the draft.
To produce a fabric with longitudinal stripes , a grouped draft is used. It is
convenient to have a whole number of repeats in each group of heald shafts
in the case of a grouped draft. The number of heald shafts equals the sum
of heald shafts necessary for producing each stripe separately.
If for example fabric contains three st ripes and the width of the 1 st stripe
is A cm, 2nd stripe is B cm, 3rd stripe is C cm, the warp repeat of the fabric
approximately equals R=PA+PB+PC.
where P is the warp density per cm.
The weft repeat equals the least common multiple of the weft repeat of the
stripe weaves.
Calculate the number of warp and weft threads that will present in a
repeat of a vertical stripe of 56 ×48/(40(Ne)×40(Ne),50″construction; if
the width of the full stripe is 2.4 cm, the width of the 2nd stripe is 1. 0
cm, the 1st stripe weave is 1/2 twill and the 2nd stripe weave is 3/1 twill.
Also show the design, drafting plan and peg plan of that stripe.
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Fabric Structure & Design
Solution:
The width of the 1st stripe is (2.4-1.0) =1.4 cm.
The no of threads in the 1st stripe=Warp density×width of the 1 st stripe.
56
= 2.54 × 1 . 4
=30.8
The number received must be divided by the warp repeat of the 1 st stripe
weave, i.e. we accept 30 as the number of threads of the 1 st stripe.
In the same way, the number of threads of the 2 nd stripe will be = 22×1.0
=22
We accept it as equal to 24 threads.
Hence the warp repeat of the fabri c will be= (30+24) =54
The weft repeat of the fabric will be the least common multiple of t he weft
repeat of both stripe weaves. i.e . LCM of 3 and 4=12.
Now the design, drafting plan and lifting plan of that stripe will be as
below:
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Fabric Structure & Design
X X
X X
X X
X X
X X
X X
X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X X X X X
Received
5 times 3 times
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Fabric Structure & Design
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
X X X X X X X X
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