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 Small Flock Series: Brooding and Growing Chicks

Small Flock Series: Brooding and

Growing Chicks
Jesse J. Lyons
Department of Animal Sciences

To raise a flock of chickens that will suit your needs, whether for eggs, meat or show, start with
quality chicks. Obtain chicks from a hatchery that participates in the National Poultry
Improvement Program. There are some advantages in buying chicks or fertile eggs from local
sources if they can provide quality chicks or eggs as well as information and service to their
customers. In general, if you are interested only in egg production, order sexed pullets of
Leghorn or other egg-type strains. If you are interested in meat, order one of the popular Cornish
broiler crosses or White Plymouth Rocks. Dual-purpose strains are well suited for growers
interested in both eggs and meat production. Birds for show and fair competition will require
special strain evaluation and appraisal.

(opens in new window)Brooding chicks

Poultry housing should provide clean, dry, comfortable quarters for birds throughout the year. To
brood chicks, you need adequate heat and space. The house and equipment should be clean and
in good repair. Set up and warm the brooding area before the chicks arrive. Chicks will need a
warm, draft-free location with proper ventilation and access to clean water, appropriate feed and
protection.

Space and equipment

The normal brooding period, when heat is required, is from the time chicks hatch until they are
about six weeks old. Chicks may be brooded many places on the farm. The main requirements
are adequate space, a reliable source of heat and proper ventilation. The floor space required for
each chick is as follows:

Age of chicks Floor space per bird

0 to 4 weeks 1/2 square foot

4 to 8 weeks 1 square foot

A brooder house measuring 10 by 12 feet will take care of 120 chicks to eight weeks of age.
Figure 1 shows the layout of a standard brooding area. The chick guard ring is 12 inches high
arranged in a circle 6 feet in diameter around the brooder stove. The feeders are placed in a
spokelike arrangement radiating outward from underneath the outer portion of the brooder
canopy. This provides chicks access to feed and allows them to move freely in and out from the
heat source.

Figure 1
Brooder arrangement for 50 chicks. B — brooder stove with hover. F
— feeders arranged in spokelike fashion. W — waterers (quart size).
G — chick guard 12 inches high in 6-foot circle around brooder

Feeder space
The feeder space recommended for 100 chicks is:

Age of chicks Feeder space

0 to 4 weeks 12 linear feet or two 3-foot feeders

4 to 8 weeks 20 linear feet or two 5-foot feeders

Waterer space
The amount of waterer space recommended for 100 brooding chicks is:

Age of chicks Waterer space

0 to 1 week Six 1-quart jar waterers

1 to 4 weeks Two 2-gallon waterers

4 to 12 weeks Two 5-gallon waterers

Automatic waterers may be used after the first week. New designs in nipple waterers and other
types will allow starting chicks on the automatic systems. Automatic water systems are available
from larger poultry equipment supply companies. Many types of fountain and water jar devices
are available from local farm supply stores.
Preparing the house
Prepare the brooder house several days before the new flock arrives. Use a good, absorbent litter
material for bedding for all chickens maintained on the floor. Never house chicks on smooth,
slick surfaces such as flat cardboard or newspaper. This can lead to leg problems. The litter
should be clean, free of mold and dry but not dusty. Litter may be any absorbent material that
controls the moisture in the poultry house, serves as an insulating material in cold weather, and
offers good support for the birds. Pine shavings, rice hulls, peanut shells and ground corncobs are
all good products. Hardwood shavings are not recommended. They sometimes produce a mold
that can cause a serious infection when inhaled by chicks or human caretakers. Place a 3- to 4-
inch layer of litter on a base of clean, dry sand or directly on the clean floor of the brooder house
several days before chicks arrive. Add new litter as needed during brooding. During cold
weather, litter may reach a depth of 8 to 10 inches. Less litter is needed in hot weather. Provide a
source of fresh air by opening curtains or windows. A circulating ceiling fan also enhances air
movement in large houses.

Check all equipment to see that it is working properly. Operate brooder stoves for at least 24
hours before the chicks arrive. This will warm the house, dry the litter and allow you to check the
accuracy of the brooder control and thermostat. When chicks arrive, be ready for them and place
them near the waterers.

Brooders
To give day-old chicks a proper start, the brooder must provide a temperature of about 95
degrees Fahrenheit in winter and 90 degrees the rest of the year. Some types of brooders heat the
entire room or house. Other types warm the area under or near the hover, while the rest of the
room remains relatively cool. Chicks feather better when they have a cool place to exercise.

The most popular brooders are infrared heat lamps, propane gas brooders and propane catalytic
brooders. Your choice among these should depend on convenience, installation cost and
operating cost.

The infrared heat lamp (Pyrex-type) is ideal for brooding small lots of 200 chicks or less. Make
certain that the lamp is equipped with a porcelain socket and a lamp guard and is adequately
wired. Provide one 250-watt lamp for each 50 to 75 chicks.

Gas brooders are reliable and may be used if gas is available in sufficient volume. The main
advantage of the catalytic brooder is that it is flameless and almost 100 percent efficient.

During normal weather, infrared heat lamps placed 1 to 1.5 feet above the chicks will usually
provide enough heat to start with. Particular care should be taken when operating these lamps.
Follow brooder lamp load limits for lamp receptacles and electric circuits. Securely support the
lamp reflector and make sure that the lamp does not come in contact with other objects. Avoid
spilling or splashing water on the lamp or wiring. The local electric supply company will be able
to assist you in obtaining information and assistance in the installation and operation of these
devices.

Chicks need enough space under the brooder so that they can keep warm without crowding,
piling up or smothering. Under normal conditions, each replacement chick needs about 6 or 7
square inches of brooder space. In cold weather, use electric brooders only in well-insulated
houses. If a house is not insulated, these brooders may not produce enough heat during the winter
to keep chicks warm and the litter dry. You may need auxiliary heat during cold weather,
especially when using heat lamps as the primary heat source.

Brooder operation
Set the brooder area temperature at about 95 degrees Fahrenheit in cold weather and 90 degrees
in hot weather. Make sure the temperature is adequate before placing the chicks under the hover.
Maintain the room temperature for day-old chicks in a cold-room system at a minimum of 65
degrees; where an economical source of fuel or a well-insulated house is available, it is desirable
to maintain a temperature of about 75 degrees.

Place the chicks under the hovers as soon as possible after they arrive. Keep chicks comfortable.
Their actions provide a good guide to their comfort. Chicks crowd together near heat when they
are too cold, and they pant and gasp (often at the outer edge near the chick guard ring) when
overheated. Check the chicks periodically to make final temperature adjustments.

Follow the brooder manufacturer's recommendations on temperatures for operating the brooder.
In general, drop the temperature 5 degrees each week until the chicks are five weeks old; then
maintain the temperature at 70 degrees.

The cardboard chick guard ring keeps the chicks near the source of heat the first week. Make
sure, however, that there is enough room within the ring area for the chicks to move away from
the heat in case they become overheated. A diameter of 6 feet should provide plenty of space for
50 chicks. In cold weather with larger brooder stove operations, place the guard on the floor 2
feet from the other edge of the brooder. Move the guard farther away from heat every day, and
remove it after about a week, or when it is no longer needed.

Keep track of the temperature at chick level by hanging a thermometer inside the cardboard ring
at the same height as the chicks about 3 inches inside the outer edge of the hover. Check the
temperature under the hover twice daily during the first week. Continue to check it twice a day as
long as the chicks need heat.

When not using a hover guard, block the corners of the house with cardboard or wire to prevent
chicks from crowding and smothering. Adjust the height of the lamp to adjust the temperature.
Raising the lamp a few inches a week should be about right. Measuring of the ambient air
temperature under infrared lamps is not a direct measurement of the heat that the chicks will feel.
Watch the chicks' reactions and adjust the height of the lamp.

Some people cover litter for the first few days of brooding. If you do, use rough, crinkled paper.
Smooth paper causes chicks to slip and develop spraddled legs. Molds will develop if paper is
left on the litter more than three or four days. Remove guard after seven days.

Keep litter as dry as possible. Whenever necessary, stir the litter to keep it from packing. Move
feeders and waterers to new locations to help prevent the development of wet areas. As wet spots
develop, remove the wet and "caked over" litter and add new, dry material.

Provide heat until chicks are well feathered. Birds are more likely to develop respiratory troubles
if heat is removed too early. In winter, heat may be continued for six weeks to prevent waterers
from freezing. Do not crowd chicks. Larger breeds and older birds require more space. Birds
may pile up or smother if they do not have enough space or if they are frightened. For summer
brooding, protect chicks against temperatures above 95 degrees Fahrenheit. Keep them
comfortable.

Provide plenty of fresh air for chicks. Do not close up the brooder house to keep it warm. Chicks
need fresh air, and air also carries moisture out of the house. The floor will be drier and the
chicks healthier when proper ventilation is provided.

A 15-watt bulb for each 200 square feet of floor area should be kept on the chicks at night for the
first week.

(opens in new window)Growing chicks

Requirements
Controlling moisture becomes a larger concern with larger birds, which eat and drink more than
chicks and produce more moisture in the house. Again, drafts may not be comfortable for the
birds, although more ventilation is required to supply fresh air for the birds and remove moisture.
Allowing larger birds to go outside is an option for the farm poultry flock during periods of
moderate weather.

Floor space recommended per 100 chicks

Age of chicks Floor space per bird

8 to 12 weeks 2 square feet

12 weeks or older 3 square feet light breeds

4 square feet heavy breeds

Feeder space recommended per 100 chicks

Age of chicks Feeder space

8 to 12 weeks 30 linear feet or three 5-foot

feeders

12 weeks or older 40 linear feet or four 5-foot feeders

Waterer space
The two 5-gallon waterers recommended for 100 starting chicks will probably be adequate
However, these should be kept clean, filled and fresh. Automatic waterers are much more
convenient and labor saving.
Caring for growing birds
Litter types used in brooding also work well for growing birds; however, temporary litters such
as stripped newspaper do not stand up to the increased moisture load and trampling by the larger
birds. Add new litter as needed. Less litter is needed in hot weather. Keep litter dry, stir it
frequently to keep it from packing, and remove the wet and caked litter and add new dry litter.

With heat lamps, watch that growing chicks do not become too warm. Normally, lamps should
be set 18 inches high the first week and raised 3 inches each following week.

As the birds age, the lighting system used depends on the type of building. Any system that
provides a maximum of 14 hours total light per day during the entire brooding and growing
period should give satisfactory results.

Roosts are not used for broilers. They can be used for layer replacement pullets if desired. Install
low roosts at four to six weeks of age, providing each chick with 4 inches of roost space.

As the birds grow, the level of feed in the feeder pans may be lowered. Prevent waste of feed by
filling feeders only one-third to one-half full.

Proper feeding programs are necessary to produce good broiler and egg production performance.
Complete feeds provide all nutrients at the proper level for each age. For small flock production
systems, provide broilers a starter feed from 0 to 21 days and a grower feed from 22 to 49 days.
The Leghorn uses a starter from 0 to 6 weeks followed by a pullet developer to 18 weeks. At 18
weeks, the pullet should be fed a layer diet to optimize skeletal development and egg production.
Diluting a complete feed with a grain such as corn or milo or with table scraps will produce an
imbalance and result in poor performance.

Cannibalism
Any time birds are raised in significant numbers they are subject to cannibalism. If possible, buy
chicks that have had their beaks trimmed at the hatchery. Watch for early signs of feather
picking, and trim beaks before this behavior becomes an established habit. Trim off the tip of the
beak with a dog's toenail clippers or electric beak-trimming machine.

Protecting the flock

Young chicks and growing birds should be protected and isolated from other animals and birds.
Cats, rodents and various wild animals will kill young chickens. These animals can also spread
diseases and parasites. They can consume or contaminate large amounts of poultry feed in
addition to being destructive to the building structure.

Sources of information
Local sources of information about brooding include hatcheries, feed and farm supply firms, and
drug stores that deal in animal health products.

For a listing of Missouri hatcheries contact: National Poultry Improvement Program Contact
Representative, P.O. Box 630, Jefferson City, Mo. 65102.

(opens in new window)Reference

  The Family Poultry Flock is available from Farmer's Digest, P.O. Box 63, Brookfield, WI
53005

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Revised June 1999

Small Flock Series: Brooding and Growing Chicks

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Contents
 Brooding chicks
 Growing chicks
 Reference

Related publications

 Control of Poultry Disease Outbreaks

 Nutrient Requirements of Chickens and Turkeys
 Prevention of Poultry Disease
 Small Flock Series: Incubation of Poultry
 Small Flock Series: Managing a Family Chicken Flock

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Waterfowl Turkeys Game birds

Brooding and Rearing Baby Chicks

Dr James Hermes of Oregon State University Extension Service gives a practical guide to brooding and
rearing all types of poultry chicks to small-scale producers and hobby farmers in this Pacific Northwest
Extension Publication from 1996.

7 July 2009

10 minute read

Baby chicks are really quite easy to raise. With a few pieces of equipment and a small
place to put them, success in brooding and rearing is virtually assured. During this
period of the bird's life, the most important needs are for warmth, protection, feed, and
water. When growing chicks of any species-chickens, turkeys, pheasants, or almost any
other production bird-each of these aspects must be considered.

Natural vs. artificial brooding

In nature, chicks hatch after 2 to 4 weeks of incubation by the parents, most often the
hen. The hatched chicks provide the stimulus to the hen to change her work from
incubating eggs to brooding young. This form of brooding chicks is the easiest if only a
few chicks are raised because the mother hen does all the work.

Hens that are "good mothers" include Rhode Island Red, New Hampshire, Plymouth
Rock, Cochins, and Silkies. Under natural brooding, chicks can easily be fostered under
a broody hen at night, and she will raise them as her own even if they are pheasants,
turkeys, quail, or waterfowl.

When broody hens are not available, or large numbers of chicks are to be raised,
artificial brooding is necessary. Chicks will perform equally well under artificial or natural
brooding, providing they are precocial; that is, able to walk and feed themselves within
hours of hatching, as baby chickens are.

Novice growers are not advised to try artificial brooding for altricial chicks; that is, chicks
such as pigeons, doves, finches, and parrots that remain in the nest to be cared for and
fed by the parents. Many of these chicks are naked, blind, and unable to walk for
several weeks after hatching and require around-the-clock care and feeding.

Housing
Chick brooders can be elaborate pieces of equipment such as tiered battery brooders
(Figure 1) or as simple as a cardboard box (Figure 2) in the house or garage. In both
cases, the most important aspect is to maintain conditions that allow the birds to thrive.

Battery brooding
Because birds in battery brooders are kept in multiple layers, many chicks can be
brooded in a relatively small amount of floor space. There are many designs. Most
include an electric heat source at one end, usually in an area that is somewhat
enclosed; another area, about two to three times the size of the heated area, is not
heated.

The walls and floor of each brooding area most often are wire. A droppings pan under
the wire floor requires regular cleaning. In many cases, feed and water are provided
outside the brooding space, making management easier.

Battery brooders are an excellent way to brood chicks in a small space. However,
chicks can remain in these brooders only a few weeks before they outgrow them. In
addition, the cost to purchase one of these units is high.

Floor brooding
Most growers will choose to brood chicks on the floor (Figure 3). Material requirements
are minimal, but the environment is comparable to battery brooding.
Flooring. Some type of bedding material or litter is required. Litter must be absorbent
and must insulate the chicks from the ground. Most important, litter must not be
slippery. A slippery floor, such as newspaper, cardboard, or a glass-bottom aquarium, is
disastrous for baby chicks. Many chicks will develop "spraddles," a condition in which
their hip joints become dislocated, which is nearly always fatal.

Ideal litter is sawdust or wood shavings; straw can be used if it is chopped into short
lengths and is not moldy. Litter must be changed or top dressed (clean litter added over
the dirty) if it becomes wet, and that must be done more often as the birds age.

Draft shield. A draft shield is cardboard or wire that surrounds the brooding area
(Figure 3). The sides of a box used for brooding act as a draft shield. The draft shield
provides two important functions. As its name implies, it reduces the possibility that
drafts will reach the birds. It also keeps the birds close to feed, water, and heat. In some
cases, young chicks become "lost" and succumb to the elements if brooded in too large
an area. Draft shields can be removed after about 1 to 2 weeks, unless conditions are
extremely cold or drafty.

Heat. For small numbers of birds, heat usually is provided by heat lamps or light bulbs.
When large numbers (200 or more) are brooded together, it may be more economical to
use propane hovers. Many types of hovers are available if desired.

Proper temperature must be maintained if the chicks are to thrive. During the first few
weeks, chicks are cold blooded; that is, unable to maintain their body temperature. As
they age, they become warm blooded; that is, able to maintain constant body
temperature under normal environmental conditions.

Two methods of monitoring chicks' environmental temperature are used successfully.

First, start chicks at about 95°F (measured near the heat source at chick height),
dropping the temperature about 5°F each week until the birds are feathered or ambient
temperature is reached.

The second method relies on observing the chicks (Figure 4). If the chicks are all under
the heat source, it is too cold; if they are all far away from the heat, it's too hot; if they
are clumped away from the heat, it is drafty; if they are milling about in all areas of the
pen, the temperature is correct.

Note: When brooding in a small area, take care that both warm and cool areas are
available to the chicks so they can move from warm to cool and back again at will.
Otherwise, chicks can get chilled or over-heated when only cool or warm conditions are
available.

Space requirements
Floor space
Baby chicks are small when they hatch but grow quite rapidly. Broiler chicks reach 5
pounds in little more than 6 weeks. Therefore, chicks need space to grow. Space
usually is not limiting in most small-flock situations; in fact, most chickens reared in
small flocks have plenty of space.

Minimum space requirements are as follows:

 For broilers, 0.75 to 1 square foot per bird

 For Leghorns and bantams, 1.5 to 2 square feet per bird
 For heavy breeds, 2.5 to 3 square feet per bird
 For turkeys, 3 to 4 square feet per bird
 For game birds, double or triple the requirements for turkeys
Feeder and waterer space
Feeder space requirements vary with feeder type and the age of the birds. The rule of
thumb is that all the birds should be able to eat or drink at the same time. Therefore,
when using trough feeders or waterers, allow 1.5 to 4 inches per bird. When using
circular feeders or waterers, allow about 1 to 2.75 inches per bird.

Lighting
Light is a powerful stimulus for most production birds. The small producer should
consider both light intensity and photo-period (day length).

Light intensity is the brightness of the light as measured in footcandles (the amount of
light a candle emits at a distance of 1 foot). Most chicks can be started at about 2
footcandles and reduced to 0.5 to 1 foot-candle at after 1 week. An easy rule is that if
you can read a newspaper, there is enough light. If light in the brooder is too bright, the
chicks may begin feather picking.

Photoperiod is the number of hours of light in a 24-hour period. Ideally, chicks that will
be kept for laying should be raised under 24 hours of light for about the first week. Then,
light should be dropped to about 16 hours a day until about 10 weeks of age.

Between 10 and 20 weeks, chicks should be placed either on short days (less than 12
hours of light a day) or a decreasing day length. In the latter case, reduce day length by
15 minutes each week.

Under natural light, spring-hatched chicks reach maturity under decreasing day lengths.
The reverse is true of chicks hatched in the late summer and fall.

If chicks are given long or increasing day lengths too early, they will begin laying early
and may have poor production their entire lives.

Broiler chicks should be raised in 24-hour light for maximum growth rate. Various
lighting schedules can reduce energy usage while maintaining the birds' growth rates.
However, these schedules may be complicated, and they must be strictly followed or
their effectiveness is greatly reduced.

Feeding
Chicks require a balanced diet if they are to grow and thrive. When starting chicks,
always feed a starter diet that is formulated to give the birds the proper levels of
nutrients. They should be fed free choice; that is, feed is available all the time.
Supplement only minimally with other feeds.

Baby chicks do not need scratch. Heavy supplements of scratch, table scraps, or
greens will reduce chicks' nutrient intake and may result in poor growth or, worse,
increased mortality.

After about 6 weeks of age, they can be fed a grower diet; generally this diet is lower in
protein because the chicks are growing more slowly. Do not feed adult diets to baby
chicks, especially layer diets. These feeds are very high in calcium for egg shell
formation and are not suitable for baby chicks.

Water must be provided constantly. It should be room temperature, clean, and fresh.
Supplemental vitamins added to the water are not necessary if the chicks are fed
properly. When brooding, make sure the water does not become too hot from the heat
source because many birds will refuse to drink warm water.

Sanitation and disease

For the most part, chicks are quite hearty. For maximum survival rate and to minimize
disease problems, buy chicks from a reputable source. Most commercial hatcheries
vaccinate their chicks for Marek's disease at hatch, so this should not be a problem.
Most starter feeds contain a coccidiostat to reduce the potential for coccidiosis in the
flock. (Nonmedicated feeds are available.) Antibiotics are available at local feed stores
but should be used only when absolutely necessary and then only according to the label
instructions.

If birds get sick, get a proper diagnosis from your local avian veterinarian or your state
avian pathologist. Call your county office of the OSU Extension Service for help in
finding these veterinarians.

Sanitation is your best defense against disease problems. Keep your facility clean, feed
only fresh, nonmoldy feed, clean waterers daily, and keep your flock relatively isolated
from other birds. Bird and human traffic in and out of your facilities is the single most
important means of bringing disease organisms to your birds.

Minor
management needs

Sexing
Determining sex in chickens usually is easy. By about 4 to 6 weeks, males begin to
show comb, waddle, and spur development, and they begin to grow larger than the
females. Some species of game birds and waterfowl require "vent sexing," a somewhat
difficult procedure to examine their genitalia, to separate the sexes.

Flight prevention
Most chickens don't fly well, so flight prevention usually is not necessary. However,
most game birds and waterfowl may require grounding. The easiest method is to clip
the flight feathers of one wing; those are the 10 or 15 large feathers on the end. Repeat
the process regularly as feathers grow back after molting. Don't clip feathers on
exhibition chickens because that may disqualify or downgrade the birds.

Brailing uses a strap to prevent the bird from fully extending its wing for flying. The brail
strap should be moved to the opposite wing at least monthly so as not to cause wing
atrophy. Pinioning and tendonectimizing are permanent methods of flight prevention.
They should be attempted only by experienced growers or a veterinarian.

Picking
In confinement, many birds may begin to pick on each other, causing poor feathering or
areas of the body without feathers.

Various salves are available to reduce picking. Trimming about a quarter of the upper
beak with a toenail or dog-nail clipper will greatly reduce picking. For serious cases,
applying a plastic device called a spec, which prevents forward vision, is quite effective
(Figure 5). For maximum effectiveness, trim beaks or apply specs on all the birds, not
just on the aggressors.

July 2009

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BROODING MANAGEMENT OF BROILER BIRDSHome » Poultry » BROODING MANAGEMENT OF BROILER
BIRDS

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June 28, 2017

What is Brooding
Brooding is a period immediately after the hatch when special care and attention is
given to chicks to support their health and survival. A recently hatched chick has not yet
developed their own mechanism to regulate its own body temperature hence, it cannot
maintain its body temperature properly for the first weeks and It is subject to chilling in the
winter season when extra heat is not provided from externally; therefore the chicks will not
take required feeds and water and this will decrease the growth and improper development of
internal organs, responsible for digestion, thus the chick will not be able to digest the yolk
completely.

Brooding is classified into natural and artificial brooding. In today’s time, artificial brooding
practices are the most prevalent which is only practiced by a farmer. Now a day for Broiler
management during the first week of life the brooding operation is followed. Depending upon
the season, brooding practices vary in tropical countries where large conventional open
 housing is normally practiced. Winter – Use 1/3 area of the house for brooding. Summer – Use
1/2 area of the house for brooding.

Various industrial events are now organised in Kenya which bring forward different
management practices and technologies related to Brooding Management.
Characteristic of Brooder Guard
 Make the guards from material, which can be properly sterilised or Plastic which is cheaper
 Helps in preventing chilling and piling
 Height of Guard should be approximately 16 inches to 18 inches
 Guards will ensure chicks stay near the source of heat

Location & Direction of Brooder House:

The brooder house must be away from the all other poultry house. The minimum distance
between brooder house and other poultry structure is minimum 100 meter, the construction of
brooder house in such a direction that the fresh air should first enter in to the brooder house
than it passes from other house. Farmer have to construct a poultry house in such a direction
that sunlight directly not enter in to the poultry house so, house should be constructed in East
to west direction so we may get the advantage of ventilation from north to south.

Preparation of Brooder House: Brooder house should be ready for the chicks before they are
put in house. First the brooder house should be scrubbed and cleaned at least one week before
the chicks arrive in brooder house. If old litter present in brooder house than first removed and
clean all the required equipment with disinfected solution. When house and equipment are
properly cleaned, the house should be allowed to dry out thoroughly. If house is air tight than
better to fumigate brooder house and equipment using a three times higher concentration of
formaldehyde gas. Normally for the fumigation take a two part of Formalin and one part of
potassium permanganate. When two compound mixed together the fume will be generated and
that fume will destroy the microbes present in brooder house e.g. 35 ml of formalin and 17.5
gm potassium permanganate is sufficient to disinfect 2.83m3 space which is known as 1X
fumigation, but for fumigation we have to remember one thing in our mind that always add
potassium permanganate in formalin.

If we are using deep litter system of rearing litter materials like paddy husk, wood savings,
ground maize cob, chopped straw, saw dust, groundnut shell, dried crushed sugar can pulp etc.
Mostly the litter materials are selected based on the locally availability and cost. Spread the
litter materials to a depth of 6 – 9 cm in winter season and 3 – 4 cm in summer season for
better insulation. For the first few day spread a simple paper or news paper on litter materials
along with sprinkle feed or ground maize grit. This will help to avoid the chicks eating the
litter materials. After 3 days removed the paper and evenly distribute feeder and waterers
around the brooder. The brooder switched on at least 24 hours before the chicks arrive. If we
are using the hanging feeder in the brooder houses than provide three hanging feeder of 36 cm
diameter with 12 kg capacity are enough to rear 100 chicks in brooder house.
Brooder House Temperature:

Adjust the electric brooder for 24 hours before the arrival of chicks and adjust the temperature
to 95°F (35°C) at the edge of the brooder 2 inches (5cm) above the litter during the first week.
Lower the temperature by 5°F (2.8°C) each week until it reaches 70°F. A temperature of 21°C
appears to be ideal during growing period. Too low or too high temperature will cause poor
growth rate and ultimately poor performance of birds. The pattern of bedding down of chicks
under electric hovers is shown in Fig. A (Ideal). At low temperature, chicks will try to huddle
below the light source in Fig. B. At high temperature the chicks will try to huddle around the
chick guard in Fig. C.

A. Right Temperature B. Less Temperature C. More Temperature

Ventilation: Fresh air is required for well being and good health of chicks. Poor ventilation
results in accumulation of carbon monoxide, ammonia and wet litter condition in brooder
house. If concentration of carbon monoxide higher than 0.01 percent it will poisonous to
chicks. Ammonia irritates the eyes of chicks and retards growth. The level of ammonia should
be less than 10 PPM. Coccidiosis is result from high amount of moisture in litter

Space: 45 – 60 sq cm space is enough per chicks in electric brooder for first week than for
broiler birds 1 sq foot space/bird is enough to rear but if space is not a problem than we may
provide 1.5 sq foot space/bird is better to get more growth in broiler birds.

Lighting: Majority of Broiler farmer provide a 23 hour photoperiod and one hour darkness in
young stock is advantageous over the continues lighting as the former allows maximum
growth while giving the birds some experience of darkness so that they are less apt to panic
during electricity failure. Light effect on growth rate is mainly due to the type of chick activity
which has a bearing on their food intake induced by the period of lighting

Vaccination: Only three vaccines are required in for broiler rearing. Vaccination against
Marek’s Disease, New Castle Disease (Ranikhet) and Gumboro Disease are done.

Debeaking: It is help in preventing pecking injuries and cannibalism among chicks. It is

carried out during the one day and 6 weeks of age but mostly broiler farmer never cut the beak
of birds. Whenever incidence of cannibalism is occur in flock than debeaking operation should
carried out with electric debeaking equipment.

Problems occur during brooding operation:

1. Coccidiosis control – It is the most common disease of poultry at young age. coccidiostats are
added to feed in sufficient quantity to suppress the multiplication of oocytes
2. Stress – Majority of stress is occur when birds are handling during the vaccination and due to that
bird are huddle together. To overcome the problem we may increase the brooder temperature to
fill birds comfortable or we may add anti stressor compound in water/feed to overcome stress
3. Inclement Weather – Environmental heat mat create a severe stress although young chicks can
tolerate higher temperatures than older birds. When the temperature is more the birds will eat
less and drink more water. To overcome this problem increase the feed and water along with an
increase in the floor space allowance.
4. Unabsorbed yolk – High temperature of chicks during the first two days under the brooder also
lowers the yolk absorption. Diseases that raise the body temperature prevent utilization of the
yolk material in young chicks. Feeding chicks soon after hatching also causes a slower absorption
of yolk materials in young chicks.
5. Mortality Standards – Chick mortality during the first week in the brooder house is higher than
any week. Losses during the second week should be slightly less.

In Kenya, there are now various platforms available to have an insight into the poultry and
livestock industry. Such industrial events bring together various companies from the
worldwide industry to showcase their technology and innovative techniques to develop the
industry.

Article Author:
Dr. Yogesh D. Padheriya and Dr. Panna D. Rabari1

Instructional Livestock Farm Complex

College of Veterinary Science & A. H., Navsari Agricultural University, Navsari

Senior Research Fellow, Dept. of VPH, College of Veterinary Science, AAU, Anand
Posted in Poultry

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 > Brooding Temperatures for Small Poultry Flocks

Brooding Temperatures for Small Poultry

Flocks
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A hatched chick cannot maintain a proper body temperature without your help. Exposing a chick
to cool temperatures in the first three weeks of life makes the bird uncomfortable and less likely
to eat the feed and drink the water needed for a good start. In meat-type chickens, cool
temperatures can lead to permanent heart damage. Exposing the young bird to cool (20ºC or
70ºF) for the first day or two on the farm can cause the bird to die from heart problems later.
Heated premises are definitely needed for brooding.
For small flocks, the most common source of heat is a heat lamp. These lamps accommodate a
250-watt red or clear bulb. When suspended 45 to 60 cm (18 to 24") off the floor, they provide
enough heat to brood up to 100 chicks for a single-light, or 300 to 500 for a four-light model.
Some units have thermostatic controls, while others have to be raised or lowered to provide the
required temperature at bird level. As the birds grow older, lower the temperature by raising the
heat lamp or reducing the wattage of the bulbs.
 Turn the heat on at least one day before the birds arrive on the farm. The temperature 1 cm (½
") below the litter surface should be at least 26ºC (80ºF). Even if the air is the correct
temperature, the birds can be chilled by the cold floor under them.

Temperature on the floor, at the edge of the heat source, should be 32 to 35°C (90 to 95°F) for
the first week. As long as the temperature at the edge of the heat lamp or brooder stove is this
warm, the air temperature 2m (6') away from the heat source can be as low as 28°C (82°F). The
birds can then chose where they feel most comfortable. If you cannot maintain a hot point next
to the heat lamp, an average air temperature of 30 to 31°C (85 to 88°F) is suggested. The
temperature should be reduced by 3°C (5°F) per week, until the room temperature of 20ºC
(70ºF) is reached. After six weeks of age, temperatures in the 18 to 21°C (65 to 70°F) range are
desirable.
Some hatcheries will sell a 30 to 45cm (12 to 18") high corrugated cardboard that can be used
to set up a brooder that forms a circle around the heat lamp. The ring helps protect the birds
from drafts and piling in corners. For 300 birds, you might use a ring 3m (10') in diameter.
Judging Bird Comfort
The behavior and sounds of the chicks will indicate their comfort level. Comfortable birds will
form a circle under the lamp, and make soft "cheeping" noises; cold birds will huddle and pile,
and make sharp noises. If birds are too hot, they will crowd as far from the lamps as possible.
Some birds will pant if the temperature is too high. Your birds will do a better job than a
thermometer of telling you if they are comfortable. The diagrams below show how birds will
move away or towards the heat lamp if they are hot or cold.

Warm Room Brooding

Some people heat their barns with space heaters or hot water pipes. Without a heat lamp or
brooder stove to act as a hot point, the birds cannot move towards or away from the heat source
to regulate their body temperature. As a result, it is more difficult to judge bird comfort when you
warm room brood. Comfortable birds will be spread out and making full use of the pen. Cold
birds will tend to bunch together, sometimes near the walls. Hot birds may also gather around
cold, outside walls. Panting is a sign of heat stress.
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Brooding and Space Requirements for Poultry – 2.502

Print this fact sheet
by H. L. Enos* (10/18)

Quick Facts…
 Proper brooding temperatures are necessary for chicks to be healthy and to rapidly feather. The
brooder temperature will decrease with each week of age.
  All poultry requires a minimum amount of square feet in coops, runs and cages that increases with age
to maintain health and to prevent social problems. They also require a certain amount of space at
feeders and waterers.

Brooding Temperatures
Proper conditions are necessary for baby poultry changes during the first weeks of life. Ensure baby poultry
are dry and bedding materials are not wet. Hypothermia due to wet conditions is one of the most common
causes of baby poultry deaths in small farms. Poultry flock owners should strive to follow the suggested
temperatures in the chart below by regulating heat in the brooding unit. The temperatures should be measured
at the outer edge of the hover (a canopy type brooding unit/lamp) 4 to 6 inches (10.2 to 15.2 centimeters)
above the floor. Room temperature should not be over 75°F (23.9°C) during the first few weeks. It is advisable
to keep room temperature in the correct range to encourage rapid feathering of the chicks. If weather
conditions change outside of the brooding unit, attend quickly to temperatures to see if adjustments need to be
made.

Age Brooding Temperature

0 to 1 week 93° to 95°F (33.9° to 35°C)

1 to 2 weeks 88° to 90°F (31.1° to 32.2°C)

2 to 3 weeks 83° to 85°F (28.3° to 29.4°C)

3 to 4 weeks 78° to 80°F (25.6° to 26.7°C)

4 to 5 weeks 75°F (23.9°C)

5 to 6 weeks 70°F (21.1°C)

6 weeks and over Comfort Zone 50° to 70°F (10° to 21.1°C)

Space Requirements for Poultry

Chickens
Per Bird

Square feet* of space Linear inches* of trough/100 birds

 Weeks of Age Floor Cage Feeder Waterer

Brooding 0-4 1/2 1/2 1 1/2 24

Growing 4-12 1 3/4 2 1/2 48

Roasters 8-12 2 1 2 1/2 48

12-16 2 1 3 48

Replacements 8-12 2 1 3 48

12-21 2 1/2 – 3 1 4 60

Layers

Leghorn type 21+ 2 1/2 – 3 1 4 60

Dual-purpose 21+ 3 – 3 1/2 1 4 60

Size of cage Birds per cage

(inches)* (Number)
WXDXH

Typical laying cages 21+ 9 X 14 X 18 1

(dependent on breed) 18 X 14 X 18 2
32 X 30 X 18 3–5

Turkeys
Per Bird
Square feet* of space Linear inches* of trough/100 birds

Weeks of Age Floor Cage Feeder Waterer

 Brooding

Small type 0-8 1 — 1 1/2 30

Grow-out 8-18 2 1/2 — 3 60

Brooding

Large type 0-8 1 — 2 30

Grow-out 8-18 2 1/2 — 3 60

Finishing

Hens 16-20 3 — 4 80

Toms 16-24 5 — 4 80

Exterior Yards/Runs

Sq. Ft.

Chickens Mature 10

Turkeys Mature 20

*To convert to metrics, use these equivalents – 1 square foot = .083 square meter; 1 inch = 2.54 centimeters.

*H. L. Enos, CSU extension associate professor poultry science (revised 8/1/79)
Robin Young, Archuleta County Director; Travis Hoesli, Grand County Director; Todd Hagenbuch, Agriculture Agent
Routt County; Sharon Bokan, Small Acreage Coordinator Boulder County (Revised 10/18).

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 Parent Stock
 Layers
o House preparation and arrival of chicks
o Brooding (1-21 days)
o Growing (3-9 weeks)
o Rearing period (9-15 weeks)
o Transfer (15 -18 Weeks)
o Onset of production (18-25 weeks)
o Production period (25 – 100 Weeks)
o Late production (Up to> 75 weeks)
o Nutrition
o House environment
o Bird assessment
o Health & Biosecurity
o Egg quality
o Key Points in layers
 Hatchery

Brooding (1-21 days)

Brooding Lighting Program
INTERMITTENT LIGHTING PROGRAM

Dark houses only (< 3 lux)

This program can be used for up to 7 – 10 days after arrival. Then switch back to
the regular step-down lighting program. Using this lighting program has the
following advantages:
 Chick behaviour is synchronized; they rest or sleep at the same time.
  Weak chicks will be stimulated by stronger ones to move as well as to
eat and drink.
 The behaviour of the flock is more uniform and evaluating the flock is
much easier.
 Chick mortality will decrease.

NON INTERMITTENT LIGHTING PROGRAM

All Houses
In open houses it is not easy to implement the intermittent lighting program. If this
cannot be applied, 22 – 24 hours of light during the first 2 – 3 days is common
practice. Providing a dark period during the day to allow the chicks to rest is
highly recommended.In a dark house the light level should be lower than
3 lux when the light-proof system is set. In other words, it must be completely
dark.

What do chicks need during the first week?

Temperature

The temperature should be between 34 – 36 °C for the first few days.

 Correct temperature: Chicks will be well distributed and active.

 Low temperature: Chicks will group together and sound stressed.
 High temperature: Chicks will group in the coldest places, are inactive
and pant.
 Pasted vents may indicate a too high or too low temperature.
 After two or three days, decrease the temperature by 0.5 °C every day.
 Be aware that the best indicator is chick behaviour.
 Check the flock every time you change your settings.
 If the house temperature is not uniform, take corrective measures by
changing heaters and ventilation parameters.
Table 3: Temperature recommendation
Humidity

Humidity should be at least 60 %. With lower humidity , chicks may

dehydrate or damage their respiratory tract. Be aware that temperature and

humidity are related. The temperatures in this guide are set for a humidity
between 60 – 70 %.

Light

The light intensity should be between 30 – 50 lux during the first week. This

should be measured at drinker level. Light should be spread uniformly throughout

the entire cage. It is important to avoid shady and dark areas in the brooding
cage.

Water

Set the height of the drinkers so the chicks can drink easily. 360-activated

nipples are preferable in rearing houses. If not available, and especially with

infrared beak treated chicks, we recommend using cups or other extra drinking
systems during the first 5 – 7 days. Reduce the water pressure in the drinking
system to create a hanging drop at chick eye level. Trigger the nipples or cups
during the first 3 – 4 days to encourage chicks to drink. flush the lines just before
housing the chicks and daily for the first 4 days. Chicks will refuse hot water (>25
°C).

Feed
Good quality feed should be available for chicks immediately after placement.
Correct feed structure is also extremely important. Feed should be scattered on
the cage paper and renewed during the first 3 – 5 days. Place abundant feed in
the feeders to attract the chicks.

Ventilation
 Supply suficient volumes of fresh air to remove dust and

undesirable gases. Ensure suflcient air movement even on cool days. Strong
movements of air disturb the chicks, they will avoid using draughty areas. This
can negatively impact on chick distribution and activity. Adequate ventilation is
especially important in hot weather.
Draft Incorrect

A good brooding period is key to developing the gut, immune system and
the skeleton. This period is therefore crucial to improve flock liveability
during the first weeks, and to obtain good quality and productive pullets.

How Do You Know That Everything Is Running

Smoothly
Pay attention to your chicks

Crop fill measurement

Crop fill measurement is a good tool to check if the chicks are eating in the first
two days of life.

 1: Sample around 50 – 60 chicks. Take them randomly from around the

house to ensure a reliable overview.
 2: Gently feel the crop.
 3. The crop should be full, soft and rounded in started chicks.
 4. Check the result according to the time after placement.

If the result is below target, check the brooding conditions and take
corrective measures.
Correct crop filling

Incorrect crop filling

Cloacal temperature

Chick temperature is between 40 – 41 °C after the moment of full homeothermy.

During the first week of life chicks are unable to control their body
temperature and it varies according to the ambient temperature. This information
can be used to adjust house temperatures optimally. Use modern ear
thermometers (see picture).

 1. Make sure you collect samples of chicks from different parts of the
house. Sample chicks distributed throughout the house for reliable
readings.
 2. Check their cloacal temperature.
 3. Collect the information, calculate the average and adjust the house
temperatures accordingly to achieve optimal chick temperatures.

Important! A chick’s body temperature does not correlate with the current
temperature but with the temperature of the last few hours.
Beak Treatment
Beak treatment is an important cannibalism/pecking prevention measure in
poultry management, especially in open houses with high light intensity. While
various methods of beak treatment may be used: the objective is to treat the
beak in a uniform manner that will permanently retard future beak growth.
Improper beak treatment procedures may result in permanent damage to overall
flock performance.

Infrared beak treatment of day-old chicks

The beaks of day-old chicks can already be treated at the hatchery using infrared
technology. This method can provide more uniform beak treatment because it is
performed by a machine and not by different crews. The beak remains intact until
10 – 21 days and then the treated portion separates. Because of this process,
chicks will need extra care during the brooding period. Pay attention to:

 Drinking water: It is vital to encourage the water intake in the first days.
Preferably use 360-activated nipples as they are easy for chicks to use.
Additional cup drinkers are also preferable. If bi-directional nipples are the
only option, providing additional cup drinkers is obligatory.
 Light: Ensure the light level in the drinker area is 30 – 50 lux.
 Feed: Scatter feed on paper until day 7.

7–10 day beak treatment

The conventional method of beak treatment is to treat the beaks with a hot blade.
Beak treatment should ideally be performed in the first 7 – 10 days. It is a
delicate and precise manual procedure. Ensure these conditions are fulfilled
before starting the process:

 Healthy birds: If birds are sick or in poor condition, treatment should be

delayed until the flock has recovered. Beak treatment in an unhealthy flock
can severely damage its viability.
 Trained crew: Due to the delicate and precise nature of this procedure,
proper crew training is of the utmost importance. Only allow well-trained
crews to perform this procedure. Never hurry the crew especially if they
are inexperienced.
 Adapted equipment: Hot blade machines are available on the market. For
correct beak treatment, the blade temperature should be approximately
650 °C. The blade color may be used as an indicator. The use of a
template with guide hole is recommended to make treatment easier and
more uniform. Keeping the machine clean and in good maintenance is vital
for good results.

And the days after beak treatment . . .

Special care should be provided to the chicks in the days following beak
treatment:

 Monitor water intake. It will be reduced for 2 or 3 days but then the
previous intake should be recovered. Reducing the water pressure in the
nipple drinker lines could be useful.
 Use additional drinkers if necessary.
 Increase the house temperature until the chicks seem comfortable.
 Increase the feed level in the feeders.
 Add Vitamin K to the diet or drinking water a few days before and after
beak treatment.

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Environmental Factors to Control when

Brooding Chicks
Bulletin 1287
V I E W P D F picture_as_pdf

 Introduction
 Temperature and Chick Physiology
 Temperature and Chick Performance
 Relative Humidity
 Ventilation
 Lighting During Brooding
 Energy Conservation
 References

Introduction

The main objective in brooding chicks is to efficiently and economically provide a

comfortable, healthy environment for growing birds. Temperature, air quality, humidity
and light are critical factors to consider. Failure to provide the adequate environment
during the brooding period will reduce profitability, resulting in reduced growth and
development, poorer feed conversion, and increased disease, condemnation and
mortality.
 Figure 1. Managing the house
and chick correctly during the brooding period will get chicks off to a good start.

Temperature and Chick Physiology

Maintaining the correct temperature is critical in chick brooding, especially during the
first two weeks of the chick's life. Early in life, the chick is poorly equipped to regulate its
metabolic processes to adequately control its body temperature. As a result, the young
chick is dependent on environmental temperature to maintain optimal body temperature.
If the room temperature decreases, the chick's body temperature will decrease.
Likewise, if room temperature increases, the chick body temperature will increase.
Chilling or overheating during this crucial period can result in poor growth, poor feed
conversion and increased susceptibility to disease. Proper brooding practices must
maintain the chick's body temperature so that it does not have to use energy to lose
heat by panting or generate heat through metabolism.

Research has shown that the chick develops the ability to regulate its body temperature
around 12 to 14 days of age. The chick can be easily stressed if its body temperature
decreases or increases by as much as one degree. Once the body temperature
changes the bird will try to compensate and in most cases this means that it will have a
negative effect on performance. The body temperature of a day-old chick is
approximately 103 degrees F (39 degrees C), but by about five days of age body
temperature is 106 degrees F (41.1 degrees C), the same as the adult. Extreme
temperatures (high or low) often result in chick mortality, but even mild chilling or
overheating can affect the performance of young chicks without causing death. While
chicks are more tolerant of high temperatures than adult birds, high temperatures for
extended periods of time increase mortality and have negative impact on performance.

Research has shown that chicks that are subjected to cold temperature have impaired
immune and digestive systems. As a result, cold stressed chicks have reduced growth
and increased susceptibility to diseases. Cold stressed chicks will exhibit higher
incidence of ascites, a metabolic disorder that results in reduced performance,
increased mortality and increased condemnations at the processing plant. In research
studies where groups of chicks were brooded at either 80 degrees F or 90 degrees F,
the chicks reared under the warmer temperature had better weight gains, feed
conversion and livability. Chicks brooded under 80 degrees F experienced reduced
growth compared to the high brooding temperature treatment. The chicks reared under
those temperatures did not catch up in body weight and as a result weighed less at
market age than birds that were brooded properly. Not only do chicks exposed to low
brooding temperatures have reduce growth rates, but they will consume more feed to
keep themselves warm, reducing feed efficiency and increasing feed costs.

Temperature and Chick Performance

One of the goals during brooding is to maintain chicks within their comfort zone, which
is where they are not using energy to gain or lose heat to maintain body temperature.
When birds are kept in environmental temperatures above or below their comfort zone,
more energy must be expended to maintain body temperature. This extra energy will
ultimately be supplied by the feed consumed. Therefore, the energy from the feed will
be used to maintain body temperature instead of growth and development resulting in
poorer feed conversion. Thus, the environmental temperature plays a major role in
determining the cost of producing a pound of meat or a started pullet.

Proper brooding not only consists of maintaining proper temperature but also the use of
good husbandry practices. Brooding temperatures will vary depending on whether the
heat source is air furnace, conventional brooder or radiant brooder (Table 1). Note that
the temperatures in Table 1 refer to air temperatures that are designed to provide a 90
degrees F (32 degrees C) floor temperature. When brooding chicks, floor temperature is
crucial. Research suggests that average floor temperature should be 90 degrees F (32
degrees C) on the day that chicks are placed in the house. Forced air furnaces require
higher temperature settings because they heat the air which heats the floor. A
conventional pancake brooder directs approximately 40 percent of its heat to the floor
and 60 percent to the air. Radiant brooders project approximately 90 percent of their
heat to the floor and 10 percent to the air. Because pancake and radiant brooders direct
more heat to the floor, the air temperature required to get the desired floor temperature
is less than that required for forced air furnaces.
 Table 1. Recommended Air Temperatures
During Brooding for Broilers by Heat Source 1

Air Temperature

Forced
Conventional Radiant
Day Air
Brooder 3
Brooder 4

Furnace 2

93 ° F 90 ° F (32 ° 88 ° F
0
(34 ° C) C) (31 ° C)

90 ° F 88 ° F (31 ° 86 ° F
3
(32 ° C) C) (30 ° C)

87 ° F 86 ° F (30 ° 84 ° F
7
(31 ° C) C) (29 ° C)

83 ° F 85 ° F (29 ° 82 ° F
14
(28 ° C) C) (28 ° C)

78 ° F 80 ° F (27 ° 77 ° F
21
(26 ° C) C) (25 ° C)

1
Temperatures based on those used currently
by broiler companies
2
Measured at chick height.
3
Measured at chick height, one foot from edge
of brooder canopy.
4
Measured at chick height, four feet from edge
of brooder canopy.

Broiler houses are specifically designed to allow the environment directly around the
chick to be closely controlled. In commercial broiler growing operations, broiler houses
are insulated and equipped with mechanical ventilation systems to maintain house
temperatures within 5 degrees of the desired temperature regardless of outside
temperature. Optimum chick brooding temperatures have been developed through
many years of research and field experience.

The best method to monitor chick comfort is to observe chick behavior and regulate the
temperature accordingly. When observing a broiler house, chicks should be distributed
evenly across the house.
 Figure 2. When adequate
house temperature is obtained and chicks are well managed, they should be distributed
throughout the house and not huddling together or sitting mostly in the feed pans.

Chicks that are cool can be seen huddling together (even next to the side wall) and will
tend to sit in feeder pans. Chicks that are hot will move away from the brooders and
furnaces, will pant and will stretch out on the litter in efforts to cool themselves. Many
houses have environmental controllers that monitor house temperature and turn
brooders and furnaces on and off as needed. The controllers also monitor the amount of
time a heat source operates. This information can be used to locate areas of the chick
environment that might experience excessive air leaks or drafts. For example, if the
brooders/furnaces near the tunnel curtain have more run time than others in the house,
it may indicate air leaks around the curtain or end wall door.

Relative Humidity

The ability of air to hold moisture depends upon its temperature. Warm air can hold
more moisture than cold air. The term relative humidity refers to the percent of water
saturation of air at any given temperature. The level of humidity influences the ability of
the bird to cool itself through panting and influences ammonia production.
It is recommended that a low level of relative humidity be maintained between 50 and
70 percent throughout the growout period, including the brooding period. Ammonia
production occurs due to the microbiological breakdown of fecal material in the litter.
Dusty conditions in the poultry house are associated with relative humidity below 50
percent. Relative humidity of 70 percent or greater provides environmental conditions
suitable for microbial growth in the litter. As the microbial population increases, more
ammonia is generated from nitrogen sources found in bird fecal material. Ammonia is a
gas that has a negative impact on bird health and performance. Research shows that
increased ammonia impairs the immune system and increases respiratory disease in
birds. High ammonia levels during brooding reduces growth rate, which is not gained
back during the remainder of the growout. Ammonia production can be reduced through
the control of relative humidity which in turn is regulated by ventilation. Managing the
poultry house ventilation rates to keep relative humidity between 50 and 70 percent is
recommended to minimize ammonia production and dust.

Figure 3. Exposure to
ammonia concentrations as low as 25 ppm for the first 28 days can have a negative effect on
body weight at both 4 and 7 weeks of age (Miles et al. , 2004).

Ventilation
Ventilation is needed to regulate temperature and remove carbon dioxide, ammonia,
other gases, moisture, dust and odors. Fresh air must be introduced uniformly, mixed
well with house air, and circulated properly throughout the house. The flow pattern
within the building is very important. Air movement into the house is accomplished via
negative pressure. Fans remove air from the house creating a negative pressure. Air
enters through inlets located in the walls or ceiling and is directed across the ceiling to
mix the air.

Figure 4. Air entering through

the inlets is directed along the ceiling. This allows the air to warm up to brooding temperature
before coming into contact with the chicks. This also increases the moisture holding capacity of
the air so that when the warm air does fall down to chick level it will pick up and hold more
moisture from the litter helping to maintain litter conditions in the house.

Mixing of the incoming outside air and the inside air prevents the cooler air from settling
near the litter and chilling the birds. Inlet openings and air speed coming through the
inlet is important in ensuring that air moves along the ceiling. If the inlet opens too much
or if the speed of the air entering through the inlet is too low then the cool air will fall to
the floor more quickly. Not only with this cause a problem of bird chilling, but can create
cool spots on the walls and floor. As warm air contacts these cooler spots condensation
will form creating wet spots. These wet spots can lead to increase litter caking as well
as more ammonia production.
Circulation fans should be used to break up temperature stratification and provide a
more uniform temperature throughout the poultry house. Moving the warmer air to bird
level not only helps maintain bird body and floor temperatures, but also helps remove
moisture from the litter.

Fan operation is controlled by temperature to maintain the desired temperature. Some

fans are operated by a timer to regulate relative humidity and maintain good air quality
when the house is at the desired temperature. The house environmental controller
operates the fans based on temperature and timer settings. The controllers will open air
inlets located in the side walls or ceiling to ensure uniform air entry into the house. The
amount the inlets open is determined by static pressure.

Lighting During Brooding

Light is an important factor during brooding that should not be ignored. Chick activity is
greater in bright light intensity than in low light intensity. During brooding the light should
be at the brightest intensity to encourage chick activity thus assisting them to locate
feed and water. Once they learn where feed and water are located (somewhere around
7 to 10 days of age), the light intensity and duration can and should be reduced. Light
systems should be designed to produce a minimum of 25 lux (2.5 foot candles) or more
at bird level. Many broiler houses being built today are capable of provide up to 40 lux
(4 foot candles) at chick level in the brood area.
 Figure 5. Higher light
intensities during brooding will encourage chick activity. The increase activity will help chicks
find feed and water sources thus getting them off to a good start.

Figure 6. With an insulated attic, the air is warmer than

outside air. Using the air allows higher ventilation rates to be used without increasing fuel usage.
These increased ventilation rates will help maintain relative humidity between 50 and 70 percent.

The light system design should allow light intensity and duration to be modified as the
birds age and provide a uniform light intensity at bird level. Typically, the lights are
operated 23 hours a day during brooding and the light intensity is at maximum. Between
7 and 10 days of age the number of hours the lights are operated should be reduced
(depending on the operation's guidelines) and by 10 to 14 days of age the light intensity
should be reduced to 5 lux (0.5 foot candles). The main purpose of the lighting during
the brooding is to ensure that chicks are active and seek out food and water sources.

Energy Conservation

Make sure that controller sensors/thermostats are placed properly.

Positioning sensors/thermostats too close to a brooder or too close to the chicks or too
high off the ground may result in bird chilling. Positioning them in too close to the side
wall, brood curtain or where air is entering the house may result in excessive fuel
usage.

Use circulation or paddle fans

The use of these fans will move warm air off the ceiling eliminating temperature
stratification and get heat down to chick level where it is needed and reduce heating
costs. Studies show that circulation fans are effective no matter which type of heating
system is being used.

Use attic inlets

Pulling air from the attic on cool days when the sun is out can result in higher ventilation
rates without increased fuel costs. This allows producers to take advantage of the
warmer air found in the attics that will help to maintain relative humidity between 50 and
70 percent. To operate attic inlets properly, the house must be tight enough to pull at
least 0.13 inches of water column in a static pressure test. If the houses cannot pull this
static pressure, efforts should be made to tighten the houses to reduce leakage before
installing attic inlets.

Eliminate leakage

Sealing up leaks provides control of where and how much air will enter the house. This
will ensure that the air comes in through planned inlets and will minimize bird chilling,
litter caking and temperature stratification during cold weather.

Use 5 minute timers instead of 10 minute timers.

This will reduce house temperature drops resulting in less heater run time and will help
regulate ammonia and moisture levels.

Clean and repair brooders on a regular basis.

Proper brooder maintenance will reduce carbon monoxide and will burn fuel more
efficiently. Brooders should have the dust blown off in between each flock. Keep the
burner orifices clean. Use the proper size reaming needle to avoid altering the orifice
size and wasting fuel.

References

Carlile, F. S. , 1984. Ammonia in poultry houses: a literature review. World's Poultry

Sci. J. 40:99-113.

Czarick, M., 2001. Circulation fans in houses with radiant brooders. January,
University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service.

Czarick, M., and B. D. Fairchild, 2004. Leakage and litter caking. Poultry Housing
Tips. November. University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service.

Czarick, M., and B. D. Fairchild, 2003. 1/15 h.p. circulation fans. Poultry Housing
Tips. November. University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service.

Czarick, M., and B. D. Fairchild, 2001. Environmental controller temperature sensor

placement. Poultry Housing Tips. November. University of Georgia Cooperative
Extension Service.

Czarick, M., and M. P. Lacy, 2000. The importance of proper inlet adjustments.
November University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service.

Czarick, M., and M. P. Lacy, 2000. Heating system thermostat/sensor location.

November University of Georgia Cooperative Extension Service.

May, J. D., and B. D. Lott, 2001. Relating weight gain and feed:gain of male and
female broilers to rearing temperature. Poultry Sci. 80:581-584.

Miles, D. M., S. L. Branton and B. D. Lott, 2004. Atmospheric ammonia is detrimental

to the performance of modern commercial broilers. Poultry Sci. 83:1650-1654

Extension Poultry Scientist

1

Status and Revision History

Published on Aug 15, 2005
 Published on Feb 09, 2009
Published with Minor Revisions on Mar 15, 2012

Faculty
Brian D. FairchildProfessor, Poultry Science

Have a question?Contact your local UGA Extension office to find out how our team of
county agents can assist you.
SET COUNTY PREFERENCE
Related Publications
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 Spanish Series: Compostaje Básico Para el Avicultor(B 1408-SP)
 Mortality Composting Basics for Poultry Producers(B 1408)

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