Lolita - Read Me
Lolita - Read Me
Front Back
                                                      www.araneablack.com
                   About
Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA is another
free multi-sized corset pattern made by Aranea Black.
                                                                             1/6                                                                   5/6
                                                                                                     3/6                                                                                   Modesty
Front Center
                                                                                                                                                                            Front Center
LOLITA is a corset pattern drafted to give a Modern
                                                                                                                                                                                            Panel
Gentle Hourglass silhouette.
Name is based on the Japanese fashion subculture
heavily inspired by Rococo and Victorian fashion.                                  2/6                                      4/6
                                                                                                                                                                      6/6
Pattern is drafted in 16 different sizes, in a way that is
optimized for easy customization to personal
measurements, both circumferences and lengths.
Check out the size charts for more details on each
individual size. (Page 7)
                                                                                    Figure 1 : All pattern pieces (per side) for Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA for sizes A-P
There are 6 pattern pieces per side (Figure 1), making the                                                with the optional Back Modesty Panel in universal size
total of 12 pattern pieces that create corsets shape.                                                                      (Example, not in scale)
A suspendable back modesty panel is a completely
optional but a welcomed addition.
Each pattern piece has all circumferences marked on           Best fabric for making corsets is coutil but it can be substituted for more budget friendly locally available
them as well as cut lines for fit modifications such as       alternatives such as ticking, tarp, upholstery calico/canvas/twill or cotton drill.
changing the adjusting circumference lengths. (Page 14)
                                                              Quickest corset construction, if coutil is the available option, is the single layer construction with interal boning
It is recommended to bone a corset with at least 1 bone       channels made out of herrinbgone tape or bone casing tape.
per seam line but additional boning placement is marked
on pattern pieces in blue dashed lines. (Page 4)              For more information on different corset appropriate fabric as well as different fabric layers in corsets, refer to pages
Feel free to add more if the size permits it.                 2 and 3.
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                www.araneablack.com                                 FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                   1
                                                                          Corset Fabrics (1/2)
There can be no corset without the STRENGTH LAYER FABRIC.
A proper corset, even with a moderate waist reduction of 5cm or 2″, will be put under a lot of strain during wear. We need a strong, durable and stable foundation fabric what will
be able to handle it. This is what we call the strength layer. We are looking for a fabric what is tightly woven and has basically non existent stretch on the bias of the fabric.
Coutil is a tightly woven fabric made specifically for                                          Tarp canvas is a natural fiber (usually 100% cotton) fabric made in basketweave/pana-
corsets. It has very stable dimensions which means it has                                       ma weave. Very durable, non-stretchy but a bit on the thicker side. Lovely choice as a
very little stretch on the bias and will prevent bones from                                     mockup/toile fabric and has the potential to be as a strength layer for undergarment
poking through as well as keep the shape of the garment                                         corsets.You can also look into cotton duck, a very similar type of fabric to tarp canvas.
while worn.
                                                                                                Ticking is a specialized fabric used for making feather filled pillows as well as mattress
It is very usual to have it made 100% cotton but some                                           covers (depending on the type). Usually, the striped ticking is made using the twill
                                                               Figure 2 : Example of different
varieties, like many brocades, are mixed with rayon or               coutil fabric types        weave while the solid pillow ticking is made in plain weave. Avoid the waxed type for
polyester.                                                                                      corset making. Depending on the type, ticking is a very nice fabric to use for making
                                                                                                mockups/toiles and beautiful finished corsets.
Most well known coutil is in the herringbone weave.
This variation of the twill weave further stabilizes the                                        Cotton drill is another strong coutil substitute fabric but be sure it is 100% cotton and
dimensions of the coutil fabric.                                                                tightly woven. This fabric is made using twill weave. Great choice for mocups/toiles and
That said, it can be woven in plain weave, satin weave                                          undergarment corsets. Depending on its thickness, it can be covered with fashion fabric
as well as complex weave variations such as brocade.
High thread count and tight weave is much more                                                  Upholstery canvas or twill are two different fabrics, one made using plain weave while
important for a coutil than they type of weave used.                                            the other in twill weave. Upholstery fabrics are usually made to be much stronger,
                                                                                                durable and with more stable dimensions than garment fabrics so it is much more likely
Warning! Not every herringbone fabric is a coutil nor                                           that you’ll find your strength layer fabric among sofa covers.
does the herringbone weave make a fabric suitable for
                                                                Figure 3 : Examples of corset
corset making!                                                     appropriate mesh & net       These are a great choice for making affordable corsets and mockups!
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                    www.araneablack.com                      FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA            2
                                                                           Corset Fabrics (2/2)
MESH & NET (Figure 4)
We can get all crazy too and experiment with fabrics that don’t sounds very corset appropriate, such as mesh and netting.
Mesh is a loosely woven fabric, mostly made using plain weave, that has even spaced holes. It can be knitted too.
Netting is a material made by looping or knotting yarns.
This category is very tricky because nets and meshes can be very different depending on many different parameters so only you can be the judge of
how appropriate is that particular material you have access to. With that said, even though we are dealing with open airy materials, they still have to
satisfy the parameters of a strength fabric, as best as possible!
A few examples : corsetry mesh, aida cloth, tulle, bobbinet, powermesh
Your safest bet is getting mesh or netting from corsetry supply shops because they usually carry such “non-conventional” fabrics that are
appropriate for corset making.                                                                                                                                  Figure 4 : Examples of corset
                                                                                                                                                                   appropriate mesh & net
Unlike strength layers fabrics, FASHION LAYER FABRIC is optional for corsets, as beauty is in the eye of the beholder.
If you don’t like for your strength layer fabric looks, you can always cover it with something a bit more interesting. That is the fashion layer of the corset.
In all honesty, there aren’t many rules when it comes to what fabric can be used as the fashion layer of a corset. Basically, it can be anything!
Some fabrics are simply easier to work with so making a corset with them will be easier two, while others are literally the devils spawn and will work real hard to make your sewing
experience as difficult as possible.
With the right preparation, knowledge and techniques, you can cover your corset with anything from tulle, lace and mesh, over pretty quilting cottons and silk taffeta to satin, genuine
leather, PVC, and stretch velvet. Yes, you read that right, STRETCH FUCKING VELVET!
Where there is will, there is a way but you NEED a good strong base!
Best lining fabrics are thin, light weight, pretty and made out of cotton, linen or rayon.
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                        FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                    3
                                                                                   Boning Options
We simply can’t have corset without boning.                                                      Synthetic whalebone (Figure 7) is made specifically to mimic genuine whalebone, this
Due to pull on fabric, boning prevents it from collapsing and bunching up around the             makes it very good choice for historical reenactment. It can be used in the entirety of
waist by providing vertical tension. Think umbrellas.                                            the corset but bone back lacing with flat steel in case of large waist reduction.
                                                                                                 Cut with wire cutters or sharp scissors. Grind edges smooth with a hand held rotary tool
Boning options include flat and spiral steel, synthetic whalebone, reinforced plastic            like Dremel) or slightly melt using a lighter.
boning, and heavy duty zip ties.
                                                                                                 Reinforced plastic (Figure 8) is created for lighter foundation garments. Cut with wire
                                                                                                 cutters or sharp scissors.
Flat steel boning (Figure 5) bends in only one direction and it’s the most stable boning         Grind edges smooth with a hand held rotary tool like Dremel) or slightly melt using a
choice. It can be used through out the whole corset but MUST be used for boning of the           lighter.
center front and center back (next to grommets to reinforce the fabric).
Cut with aviation shears. Finish by applying boning tips or grind edges smooth and               Heavy duty zip ties aren’t made for use in corsets but they work great as a budget
cover with Teflon tape, masking tape or plasti dip. Can be ordered precut and tipped.            friendly, locally available substitute.
                                                                                                 Cut with wire cutters or sharp scissors. Grind edges smooth with a hand held rotary tool
Spiral steel boning (Figure 6) bends in all directions which makes it very flexible while        like Dremel) or slightly melt using a lighter.
still being very sturdy. It is best used on sides of the corset and very curvy seams,
NEVER next to grommets as it’s too weak to support the fabric under the strain of
lacing.                                                                                          Boning width can be chosen based on the size and proportions of the corset. Small
Cut with steel cutting pliers. Finish by applying boning tips or grind edges smooth and          corset sizes look good in proportion paired with 5mm boning, medium sizes with 7mm,
cover with Teflon tape, masking tape or plasti dip. Can be ordered precut and tipped.            and large sizes with 10mm wide boning but “rules” can be broken.
All steel boning CAN be bend, into curvy lines of the pattern, for greater comfort.              Number of bones also depends on the size of the corset. General minimum is
                                                                                                 AT LEAST one bone per seam line but more is generally better.
                 Figure 5 : Flat steel boning     Figure 6 : Spiral steel boning                             Figure 7 : Synthetic whale bone      Figure 8 : Reinforced plastic bone
                   5, 7 and 10 mm width               5,7 and 10mm width                                                7mm width                             7mm width
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                    www.araneablack.com                          FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA         4
                                  Front Closure                                                                                        Back Lacing
Corsets are known for their specialized and iconic front busk closure (Figure 9) but                 Back lacing is what makes the corset work as a corset.
they are not necessary for a corset to function. It’s just very practical to be able to open         At the same time, it’s rigid because the laces aren’t
the corset in the front, for easier getting in and out of it.                                        stretchy and it’s flexible because the used length of laces
                                                                                                     can be adjusted.
Aside from front busk closure, other options include creating front lacing, using a
heavy duty zipper (metal or plastic; YKK number 5 is a very popular choice), swing                   Back lacing system (Figure 11) is created from a
hooks or we can make the corset have a closed front.                                                 combination of metal holes (grommets or eyelets with
Last option will require much longer back laces and will take longer to get in and our of            washers), rigid boning such as flat steel and a long
the corset but it’s an option.                                                                       length of ribbon or cord.
No matter the type of front closure, it should always be                                             Metal holes (Figure 12) MUST consist of two parts. This Figure 11 : Back lacing grommets &
stiffened with boning (preferably flat steel).                                                       creates the strongest connection. Both grommets and      flat steel bones supporting them
Front busk automatically has a stiff bone included as                                                eyelets with washer work well on corsets.
knobs and hooks are riveted on flat steel bones to make                                              Ideally, metal holes should be spread apart at 25mm/2”
them, but more can be added next to it (Figure 10) for                                               or less.
more rigidity.                                                                                       Most commonly used sizes are 4 and 5mm or #0 and #00
Swing hooks, zippers, front lacing, and closed front                                                 For best support, bones should hug metal holes snugly.
options NEED to be boned for proper support of the
fabric and pattern shape.                                                                            Lacing length varies from 6m to 12m or 6.5 to 13 yard
                                                                   Figure 9 : Variety of front       depending on corset length, metal hole number and back
Length of front busk (Figure 10) and other front closure               split busk closures           gap width. In extreme situations, might be longer.
boning, needs to be shorter than the full length of the                                              Lacing options are many and are a matter of preference.
                                                                                                                                                                      Figure 12 : Eyelets with washer
center front pattern piece to accommodate for the width
of corset edge finish.                                                                               Boned back modesty panel (Figure 13) can be added to
                                                                                                     back lacing system for a more uniform look of the corset,
For front busk insertion, an awl is used to poke holes                                               as well as for greater comfort of wear (though this is very
(without cutting fabric threads) for insertion of the knobs.                                         subjective).
All front closure options benefit from using a zipper
foot, to safely sew very close to the edge of flat steel                                             Back lacing gap is the empty space between two sides
bones.                                                                                               on the back of the corset that the corset was drafted to fit
                                                                                                     with. Common width of lacing gap is 50mm or 2”.
To make it impossible for the closure to pinch skin or
garments under it, a front modesty placket (Figure 7)                                                Corsets and corset patterns can be made to fit with or
can be made. Simply extend center front pattern piece on       Figure 10 : Front modesty placket     without the back lacing gap.                                   Figure 13 : Back lacing with eyelets,
the left side of body for at least 5mm.                         made by extending pattern piece      Lacing gap provides some size flexibility.                        satin lacing and modesty panel
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                        www.araneablack.com                       FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                    5
                                                               Taking Measurements
To take body measurements for an Aranea Black corset pattern, you will need a measuring tape, a piece of elastic or ribbon to snugly tie around the waist and a marking pen
safe to use on skin. For most accurate measurements, it is recommended to wear well fitting underwear, and use a measuring buddy but a large mirror or mobile phone camera
will work just fine.
When measuring circumferences, measuring tape should NEVER be to tight or too loose. Take care not to take measurements with fingers caught under the measuring tape. Make
sure the measuring tape is parallel with the floor while measuring circumferences, and on a right angle to it while measuring lengths and heights.
Read and follow measuring instructions before choosing pattern sizes. NEVER use old measurements or measurements taken based on other pattern instructions!
4) Middle Hip is located                                        5) Measure the distance                                          6) Before moving to size choosing, make sure to double
on the point where hip                                          between Waistline and                                            check all taken measurements!
bones „poke“ out (Anteri-                                       Underbust circumference
or superior iliac spine).                                       line as well as between                                          For best results, be precise and honest when taking
(Figure 17)                                                     Waistline and Middle                                             measurements.
                                                                Hip circumference.
Measure and record your                                         (Figure 18)                                                      It’s not recommended to make corsets while on a weight
Middle Hip                                                                                                                       loss journey as it is very difficult to predict future size
circumference.                                                  Don’t bend, extend or                                            and shape.
                                                                twist torso while
Use a pen to mark Middle                                        measuring!
Hip on the body.                 Figure 17 : Middle Hip                                             Figure 18 : Distances
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                  6
                   Preparation                                                                                   Size Chart (Metric)
1) Measure yourself first following instruction. (Page 6)
                                                                       SIZE (cm)      A       B      C      D      E       F      G      H       I      J      K      L      M      N      O       P
2) To help out with the process, make use of                           Underbust      57     62     67      72     77     82     87      92     97    102    107     112    117    122    127     132
Measurements Templates (Pages 8 & 9)                                       Waist      40     45     50      55     60     65     70      75     80     85     90      95    100    105    110     115
                                                                       Middle Hip     67     72     77      82     87     92     97     102    107    112    117     122    127    132    137     142
3) To prepare body measurements for use on the Size                                               Distances between circumferences (Same for ALL sizes)
Charts, subtract 5cm or 2” from ALL circumference
                                                                                     Waist to Underbust : 10                                            Waist to Middle Hip : 9,5
measurements to factor in back lacing gap width.
MEASUREMENTS IN THE SIZE CHART ARE                               For easier use as well as re-usability, back lacing strips can be made and sewn on to corset mock ups. It creates a very
OF THE CORSET PATTERN!                                           sturdy back lacing while saving grommets. Check out www.araneablack.com for the pattern and tutorial on how to
                                                                 make your own!
If circumference value fall between two neighboring              A reusable front closure strip can be made in a similar manner, be it for busk, zipper, swing hook or lacing closure.
sizes, for waist line, pick a size smaller but for the rest of
circumferences, pick the larger size.
                        COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                             FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                     7
                                                           Measurements Template (Metric)
This template is made to help with tracking, storing and preparing body measurements needed for using Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA.
Along side usual measurements, template includes calculation formulas for preparation of body measurements into corset measurements, making it easier to pick pattern sizes.
It’s great help for keeping track of pattern adjustments such as “Grading between sizes” (Page 12) and “Adjusting circumference distances” (Page 14).
 UNDERBUST : ______ - 5cm + 1cm = ______ (__)                 UNDERBUST : ______ - 5cm + 1cm = ______ (__)                   UNDERBUST : ______ - 5cm + 1cm = ______ (__)
  WAIST : ______ - 5cm - 5cm = _____ (__)                      WAIST : ______ - 5cm - 5cm = _____ (__)                        WAIST : ______ - 5cm - 5cm = _____ (__)
 MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 5cm = ______ (__)                      MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 5cm = ______ (__)                        MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 5cm = ______ (__)
  Waist to Underbust : ______ - 10cm = ______                  Waist to Underbust : ______ - 10cm = ______                    Waist to Underbust : ______ - 10cm = ______
 Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 9,5cm = ______                Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 9,5cm = ______                  Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 9,5cm = ______
                     COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                www.araneablack.com                        FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA        8
                                                          Measurements Template (Imperial)
This template is made to help with tracking, storing and preparing body measurements needed for using Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA.
Along side usual measurements, template includes calculation formulas for preparation of body measurements into corset measurements, making it easier to pick pattern sizes.
It’s great help for keeping track of pattern adjustments such as “Grading between sizes” (Page 12) and “Adjusting circumference distances” (Page 14).
 UNDERBUST : ______ - 2” + 3/8” = ______ (__)                 UNDERBUST : ______ - 2” + 3/8” = ______ (__)                   UNDERBUST : ______ - 2” + 3/8” = ______ (__)
  WAIST : ______ - 2” - 2” = _____ (__)                        WAIST : ______ - 2” - 2” = _____ (__)                          WAIST : ______ - 2” - 2” = _____ (__)
 MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 2” = ______ (__)                       MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 2” = ______ (__)                         MIDDLE HIP : ______ - 2” = ______ (__)
  Waist to Underbust : ______ - 3 ¹⁵⁄₁₆” = ______              Waist to Underbust : ______ - 3 ¹⁵⁄₁₆” = ______                Waist to Underbust : ______ - 3 ¹⁵⁄₁₆” = ______
 Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 3 ³⁄₄” = ______               Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 3 ³⁄₄” = ______                 Waist to Middle Hip : ______ - 3 ³⁄₄” = ______
                     COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                www.araneablack.com                        FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA         9
                          Printing Instructions                                                                                                       Pattern Assembly
1) Open downloaded pattern file in a PDF reader                                                1) Print all pattern parts
2) Click on the printer icon                                                                   2) All papers have size test squares in their corners (Figure 20), black semicircles as
3) Choose the preferred printer & print quality (Figure 19)                                    well as page names (example 1A, 2A, 2B etc.) located in the top left corner.
4) Select “Actual size” option 3) Cut excess paper on one side of the connecting paper with scissors or knife.
5) Choose “Auto portrait/landscape”                                                            4) Connect pieces of paper on the gray lines by using black semicircles for matching.
                                                                                               1A connects to 1B and/or 2A. 1B connects to 1C and/or 2B and so on.
6) PRINT
                                                                                               5) Tape/Glue the trimmed side to the untrimmed matching page.
7) Measure the test squares on the printed page with a solid ruler to check if the pattern
will print at true size
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                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                               www.araneablack.com
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                                 Figure 19 : Printing settings                                                                                Figure 20 : Pattern paper connecting points
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                                                    FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                                                                                                                 10
                                                                          Pattern Anatomy
All multi-sized patterns made by Aranea Black have been graded and design in such a way that it promotes customization and alteration. Whole idea is to use premade corset
patterns as a starting point in creating a custom fitted garment for the unique shape and size of their future wearer.
On first thought, it sounds like a lot of work but one of the main benefits, privileges, of knowing how to make garments is the ability to perfect the fit of those garments.
Aranea Black patterns are made in such a way that it makes those adjustments easier to do without having to learn flat pattern drafting from scratch.
Every pattern comes with a set of instructions on basic methods of adjusting and customizing them. Those include tutorials on grading between sizes (Page 12), adjusting
distances between circumferences (Page 14) and taking seams for a walk (Page 16).
They will help you get started. (For more pattern adjustment tutorials check out www.araneablack.com )
Every Aranea Black corset pattern has a couple of features that make it one of the more
unusual and unique on the market.
Features included on patterns (Figure 21):
 ● ALL major circumference lines clearly marked and named on pattern pieces.
 ● Sizes nested inside each other so it’s easier to customize them.
 ● Sizes clearly marked on ALL circumference lines, on both sides of the pattern.
 ● Cut lines for pattern shortening/lengthening distances between circumferences.
 ● Clearly marked pattern name, size range, pattern number and position .
 ● Suggested grain line.
 ● Marked positions for extra boning channels (when applicable).
Remember, there are no added seam allowances on ANY of the Aranea Black corset
patterns for greater freedom of choice when it comes to corset construction techniques
as well as for skipping those pesky, small but important, differences between Metric and
Imperial measurement systems.
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                  www.araneablack.com                   FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA           11
                                                                                                                                           Grading between sizes (1/2)
Just a few people fall into the proportions of any standard sizing because everyone is unique, not a statistical average. By applying this grading tutorial, you can customize your
pattern even before making a mockup, saving you time and money!
It is very easy to customize a multi-sized Aranea Black corset patterns thank to marked circumferences as well as all sizes marked on them, on both sides!
To start, measure yourself according to pattern instructions. (Page 6) Find the closest size in the size chart for every circumference separately. (Page 7) Use Measurements
template to more easily track needed corset measurements, sizes and other alterations. (Page 8 or 9)
All original pattern lines have been colored black to differentiate between old and new lines more easily.
1) Find all sizes for circumferences on the pattern                                                                                            2) On Shorten/Lengthen lines, mark our the size                                                                                          3) Using a pencil, connect all marked points with a
piece.(Figure 22) Mark them!                                                                                                                   between two circumference sizes. (Figure 23)                                                                                             ruler. (Figure 24)
To demonstrate, we are using size nest A-G of pattern                                                                                          Size between Waist : D and Middle Hip : F is E so we                                                                                     This will give a rough outline of the new shape for our
ROSE.                                                                                                                                          mark size E on Shorten/Lengthen line                                                                                                     pattern pieces.
Underbust : E Waist : D Middle Hip :F
                                                                                                                                               If there is no size between, split the width between sizes                                                                               It is ok if it looks weird at this point, we’ll refine it.
                                                                                                                                               in half.
                                       Figure 22 : Locating sizes                                                                                                                      Figure 23 : Adding more size                                                                                                          Figure 24 : Outlining new
                                                                                                                                                                                                  points                                                                                                                        pattern seam lines
                                                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                                                                                             www.araneablack.com                                                                     FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                                                                                              12
                                                                                                                                          Grading between sizes (2/2)
4) Draw new curved seam lines using a French curve.                                                                                           5) Walk the seams                                                           In the case of having to shorten or lengthen (Page 14)
(Figure 25)                                                                                                                                   (Page 16) and correct the lengths and/or shapes of new                      the corset pattern as well, it is recommended to grade
If you are experienced (or very brave) new curves can be                                                                                      seam lines, if needed. (Figure 26)                                          between sizes FIRST and change lengths second!
drawn by hand.
                                                                                                                                              By walking seams, we check if seam lines will properly                      To finish it all off, we walk the seams (Page 16) last
Try to make the new lines resemble, within reason, to                                                                                         sew together.                                                               as the final check before sewing.
curves and shape of the original.
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          Getting these mixed up might negatively affect the
                                                                                                                                                                                                                          sizing and the fit of the corset.
           G   F   E       D       C   B   A              UNDERBUST                   A       B       C       D   E   F   G                                   UNDERBUST
                                                                                                                                                                                                       UND
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                                                          Shorten                                                                                             Shorten
                                                          Lengthen                                                                                            Lengthen                       Shorte
                                                                                                                                                                                            Length n
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                       G       F   E   D   C   B   A        WAIST     A   B   C   D       E       F       G                                                     WAIST
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                                                          Shorten                                                                                             Shorten
                                                          Lengthen                                                                                            Lengthen          Shorte
                                                                                                                                                                               Length n
                                                                                                                                                                                     en                            UND
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                                                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                                                                      www.araneablack.com                              FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA          13
                                    Adjusting circumference lengths (1/2)
Just a few people fall into the proportions of any standard sizing because everyone is unique, not a statistical average. It is very important to alter and match up the positions of
circumferences between the corset and the body. This makes the corset much easier and faster to fit.
It is very easy to customize a multi-sized Aranea Black corset patterns thank to marked circumferences as well as where to cut the pattern to shorten or lengthen it.
To start, measure yourself according to pattern instructions. (Page 6) Compare the lengths between your circumferences to those of the pattern. (Page 7)
Use Measurements template to more easily track needed corset measurements, sizes and other alterations. (Page 8 or 9)
1) Every line on the pattern is clearly named, to lower the    2) Spread or overlap pattern pieces (Figure 28)by the            3) Tape or trace down all changes made. (Figure 29)
chance for confusion.                                          amount of the difference to add/remove length as needed.         Connect the waist line to underbust & hip, using a ruler
                                                               Always keep the grain line TRUE!                                 Refine straight lines to curves where needed, while trying
Start changing your pattern by cutting on the dotted line
(Shorten/Lengthen). (Figure 27)                                In example, we lengthen waist to underbust by 2cm &              to keep as close as possible to the shape of the original
                                                               shorten hip to waist length by 1cm.                              pattern piece.
+ 2 cm
                            WAIST
                                                                                            WAIST                                                          WAIST
                                                                                           - 1 cm
                           MID HIP                                                         MID HIP                                                         MID HIP
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                  www.araneablack.com                        FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA             14
                                   Adjusting circumference lengths (2/2)
4) On slanted pieces, measure top and bottom of the       5) Repeat the same process as we did with the straight   6) Tape or trace down all changes made.
pattern piece & split in half. (Figure 30)                pattern pieces (Page 14, step 2) but use middle line     Connect the waist line to underbust & hip, using a ruler
Connect new points with a straigh line.                   instead of grain line.
                                                                                                                   Refine straight lines to curves where needed, while trying
It will be used same way we used the grain line on        Always keep the new middle line TRUE! (Figure 31)        to keep as close as possible to the shape of the original
straight pieces.                                          In example, we lengthen waist to underbust by 2cm &      pattern piece. (Figure 32)
This will minimize shape distortion on extreme changes.   shorten hip to waist length by 1cm.
                                                                                                                                             UNDERBUST
                              1/2 1/2
+ 2 cm
WAIST
- 1 cm
                                                                                                                                       MID
                                                                                                                                       HIP
              1/2             1/2
              Figure 30 : Finding the middle line                       Figure 31 : Spreading/overlaping                           Figure 32 : Refining seam shape
                      on slanted piece                                         on a slanted piece                                         on slanted pieces
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                           www.araneablack.com                  FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA        15
                                                         Walking seams (1/2)
Walking seams is a basic pattern adjustment technique you need to know to lift your corset making skills to the next level.
Most corset pattern adjustments (Grading between sizes on Page 12 & Adjusting circumference lengths on Page 14) distort the seam shape and/or length thus creates a need for
readjustment of seam lines.
In this tutorial, you will learn the basic principle of walking seams on a corset pattern. There is special emphasis on the waist line because everything revolves around it when
working on a corset.
By walking seams, we make sure we’ll never have trouble with panels not line up! No more wasting time on battling to match up your pattern notches!
“RULES” FOR WALKING SEAMS :                                    1) Start with the center front pattern piece. (Figure 33)      2) Rotate piece 2 to match seams to piece 1, until you
                                                               Match the next pattern piece 2 on the waist line.              reach the point at which they start to overlap/spread apart.
 ● Walk seams without added seam allowances                                                                                   Move the pen/pin on the new pivot point, where patterns
                                                               Position a pen/pin on the waist line of the pattern piece 2    stop touching. (Figure 34)
 ● Start walking seams from the waist line and work            to make the first pivot point. (Red dot in Figure 33)
your way to the bottom/top edge                                                                                               Repeat until pattern piece edge is reached.
 ● Add and/or readjust notches as you go, where needed
                                                                                 Front                                                             Front
                                                                                 Center                                                            Center
                                                                                                 Front                                                         Front
                                                                                   1                                                                 1
WALK PATTERN SEAMS IF YOU HAVE :                                                                Middle                                                         Middle
                                                                                                  2                                                              2
 ● Graded sizes                                                                  WAIST        WAIST                                                WAIST       WAIST
 ● Changed pattern lengths
 ● Reshaped edges
 ● Redrafted some/all pattern pieces
 ● Removed gores/gussets
 ● Added gores/gussets
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                      FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA           16
                                                        Walking seams (2/2)
3) When an edge is reached, tape pieces together.           4) Do the seam walking process for ALL pattern pieces,         5) Remove tape holding pieces together.
Notice the differences in seam line lengths. This is what   one edge at a time.                                            With one side done and corrected, repeat the whole
gets corrected with the seam walking process.               Correct the seam lengths by adding or removing length          process on the other edge. (Figure 37)
Move on to walking seams of the next connecting pattern     difference, depending on what will keep the original edge      Remove any leftover sticky tape after correcting edges.
piece. (Figure 35)                                          shape better or draft a fully new edge shape. (Figure 36)
                                                                                                                           Your pattern is ready for use!
                                                            Use small pieces of paper as extensions where needed.
Front
                                                                                                                                                                         Ce ck
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              Center              Fro
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                1                  iddle
                           Middle                             Front
                                  Side                                                                                               Fro
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                             2                                Center
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                  Figure 35 : Tape & repeat                                    Figure 36 : Correcting the                                          Figure 37 : Correcting the
                                                                                       top edge                                                           bottom edge
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                              www.araneablack.com                       FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                     17
                                          Making a Corset Mockup (1/4)
Mockups are essential tools for achieving a well fitting garment without endangering the finished garment.
This tutorial is design to help you make a quick and cheap but effective boned corset mockup. (Figure 38)
It covers the creation of the most basic corset mockup that uses locally available supplies, such as tarp and heavy duty zip ties. Budget friendly supplies allow for the creation of
the mockup before ordering any specialized corset making supplies.
That said, it is possible to upgrade the basic corset mockup with higher quality materials such as coutil, steel boning, busk and reusable lacing strips for an even better fitting
experience. For more info, visit www.araneablack.com
Basic corset mockup is constructed as a single layer                        BASIC TOOLS: (Figure 30)                                              MINIMUM MATERIALS:
corset with seam allowances on OUTSIDE.                                                                                                (Larger the size, more of the material is needed)
Most boning is on middle of pattern pieces. (Figure 39)           ● Sewing machine (+ zipper foot)
                                                                  ● Sewing Thread                                                ● Cotton Tarp, Ticking or Upholstery Canvas
Method combines ease of seam line alteration and proper                                                                             0.5 to 1.5 m or 0.6 to 2 yd (Figure 41)
                                                                  ● Iron (steam is always welcomed)
vertical tension to fabric, preventing it from bunching up,                                                                      ● 2 cm wide Cotton Twill Tape (waist tape)
around the waist line.                                            ● Pen                                                             10 cm or 4“ longer than the waist line measurement
                                                                  ● Ruler                                                        ● 1.5cm wide Cotton Twill Tape (boning channels)
Apply patterns adjustments BEFORE making a boned                  ● Fabric scissors or Rotary cutter                                3.8 to 7.4 m or 4.2 to 8.2 yd
mockup to maximize the usefulness of the mockup!                  ● Paper scissors                                               ● 1 cm wide Heavy duty zip ties (boning)
                                                                  ● Fabric clips or pins                                            12 to 24 pieces (Figure 42)
For larger sizes, feel free to add more boning (to the                                                                           ● Ribbon/Cord (back lacing)
                                                                  ● Hole punch for fabric
mockup and finished corset) for a better fit.                                                                                      8 to 12 m or 9 to 13 yd
 Figure 38 : Basic mockup front          Figure 39 : Basic mockup back         Figure 40 : Basic corset mockup                 Figure 41 : Tarp                       Figure 42 : Zip ties
                                                                                         making tools
                        COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                 www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA                 18
                                        Making a Corset Mockup (2/4)
To make the mockup you will need to cut all the pattern pieces twice.                             9) Iron 1.5cm wide Cotton Twill Tape to remove wrinkles.
Once as they are & once flipped/mirrored. Double up Back Center pattern piece.                       Give it a very good stretch.
 1) Start by ironing Cotton Tarp to remove any wrinkles and folds.                              10) Use a piece of tarp scrap to sew test boning channels using ironed Twill Tape.
                                                                                                    Make sure zip ties/boning fit the channel snuggly.
 2) Lay paper corset pattern pieces on to fabric.
    Take care to match fabric grain line to pattern grain line.                                 11) Sew ironed Twill Tape on pattern pieces to create boning channels. (Figure 44)
                                                                                                    Use marked bone channel positions as your guide.
 3) Mark pattern piece seam lines on to fabric with a pen.
    Be precise!
                                                                                                12) Divide fabric pieces in two piles.
 4) Transfer pattern details on to fabric.                                                          One for left side, one for right side.
    Pattern number and side, circumference lines, boning channel position, notches...
                                                                                                13) Pair up pattern pieces that are to be sewn together. (Figure 45)
 5) Add 1 cm or ½“ wide seam allowances all around.                                                 Pattern piece 1 is to be sewn to pattern piece 2. Pattern piece 3 is sewn to 4 & so on.
    Seam allowances can be wider if you wish.
                                                                                                14) Pin or clip pairs together starting from the waist line notches. (Figure 46)
 6) Repeat the same process for all pattern pieces.                                                 Work your way up and down, making sure edges and notches match.
    Try your best to minimize scrap fabric.
                                                                                                15) Sew pattern pairs together. (Figure 47)
 7) Cut everything out.                                                                             Use 1.5 mm or 16 stitch/inch stitch length & sew slightly inside marked seam line.
 8) Baste waist line marking on ALL pattern pieces. (Figure 43)                                 16) Repeat the pair up process until ALL corset pattern pieces are sewn together.
    Machine stitch with 3.5 mm or 7 stitcher per inch length right on the marked line.              Including Front Center pieces!
  Figure 43 : Basted waist line          Figure 44 : Boning channel on         Figure 45 : Pairing up pattern          Figure 46 : Pair of pattern pieces        Figure 47 : Pair of pattern pieces
                                            middle of pattern piece             pieces & matching notches                    held together by clips                      sewn together
                         COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                              www.araneablack.com                            FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA               19
                                         Making a Corset Mockup (3/4)
17) Sew Twill Tape over Front Center seam to create boning channels. (Figure 48)                 25) Cut off top and bottom edge seam allowances.
    If corset size allows it, sew an extra boning channel on each side of it.
                                                                                                 26) Close ALL boning channels on the top of the corset. (Figure 51)
18) Iron 2 cm wide Cotton Twill Tape to remove wrinkles.                                             Sew them shut with a line of stitching 7 to 10mm or ¼“ to 3/8“ from the edge.
    As usual, give it a good stretch.
19) Pin waist tape on the inside of the corset, between seam lines.                              27) Take your 1cm wide Heavy duty zip ties.
    Use basted waist line as a guide by placing the edge of tape right on the waist line.
                                                                                                 28) Cut off ALL the locking mechanisms.
20) Sew waist tape on to corset right on the seam line. (Figure 49)
    Simple backstitch nested between open seams allowances will do just fine.                    29) File zip tie corners smooth using a nail file/sanding block. (Figure 52)
                                                                                                     Gently shape the edges until it's smooth to touch.
21) Fold Back Center panels on the seam line to close the back.
                                                                                                 30) Insert a zip tie/bone into the bone channel.
22) Iron the Back Center edge neatly.                                                                Smooth side first!
    Fold and iron waist tape over it!
                                                                                                 31) Push the bone all the way in, to the closing stitch line.
23) Top-stitch 1.5 mm or 1/16“ from Back Center edge.
                                                                                                 32) Mark bottom edge of the corset on the bone.
24) Sew a parallel stitch line to top-stitch line to make a boning channel. (Figure 50)
    Make sure it's wide enough for the bone to fit snuggly.                                      33) Remove the marked bone around 1/3 of it's length from the channel.
                                                                                                     Be careful not to remove the marked bottom edge line!
   Figure 48 : Boning channels           Figure 49 : Waist tape sewn            Figure 50 : Boning channel at           Figure 51 : Stitching closing top           Figure 52 : Cut & shaped
         on Front Center                         on mockup                              Back Center                           of boning channels                        zip tie bone edges
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                                         Making a Corset Mockup (4/4)
34) Measure 1 to 1.5 cm or 3/8“ to 1/2“ from the marked line. (Figure 53)                          43) From this point, measure and mark a point every 2 cm, all the way to the TOP edge.
35) Mark the new line on the bone. 44) With one side done, measure 1 cm from the waist line DOWN and mark the spot.
36) Cut the bone on that freshly marked line. 45) Measure & mark every 2 cm, until BOTTOM edge is reached.
37) File zip tie corners so they are smooth to touch. 46) Repeat the same process on the other side of the corset mockup.
41) Draw a line 5mm or ¼“ from the Back Center boning channel.                                     50) Loosen back lace completely BEFORE attempting to pull mockup over your head.
    This line will be the center point for back lacing hole positions.                                 Getting stuck is anything but fun.
42) Measure 1 cm or 3/8“ from the waist line UP & mark the spot. (Figure 55)
                                                                                                                     Basic boned mockup is finished & ready for fitting!
 Figure 53 : Measuring & making          Figure 54 : Closing the bottom        Figure 55 : Marking the back lacing        Figure 56 : Back lacing holes           Figure 57 : Mockup back lacing
          bones shorter                       of boning channels                  hole positions from waistline                   marked & cut                   laced in reverse bunny ears style
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                                                              Fitting a Corset Mockup (1/8)
First off, unless something went horribly wrong, it is impossible to look at the pattern and tell if it will fit well. Patterns don't contain that information but a well made mockup will
reveal it all!
No matter what kind of pattern we use, standard size or made to measure draft, we need to test it with a mockup (or two) to tweak the little details that make every body unique.
If the body is unique, fitting a corset for it must be unique as well. No way around it, really.
Creating an universal set of corset fitting rules that will always work, on everybody, is simply impossible but we can go through some of the usual issues and ideas on how to address
them to get a good start.
Since I encourage every corset maker, old and new, to pre-fit standard sized corset patterns through methods such as Grading between sizes (Page 12) and Changing circumference
distances (Page 14), most major pattern changes will be applied before the mockup (Page 18) is created.
This way, we end up just fine tuning the patterns fit.
Remember, fitting process starts before the corset mockup is laced on!
                                                      PREPARE:
1) Gather all the fitting tools before lacing into the          5) Lace on the mockup slowly while constantly checking
    mockup. (Figure 58)                                            how mockup sits on the body.
   You will need a measuring tape, colored pens, pins,             Readjust the mockup, clothing and/or soft tissue as
   tarp scraps, small scissors.                                    needed.
                                                                   Help your “girls” out for best results. ; )
2) A big mirror is always helpful but smart phones are
   just better.                                                 6) Have the mockup waist line sit on the body waist line.                            Figure 58 : Fitting tools
   Set up the phone one a shelf or a stack of books to get         Rest of the circumferences don't have to match up
   it to proper height.                                            perfectly.
   Take loads of pictures from all angles as well as video         They will be dealt with during fitting.
   footage.
                                                                7) Be mindful of the back lacing gap when lacing in!
3) Tie long hair in a bun or a similar style. (Figure 59)          Lace the mockup with the back lacing gap that the
                                                                   pattern is drafted for.
4) Wear similar clothing for fitting process as you'll wear        Make sure sides are parallel!
    the finished corset with.
   Don't wear a bra under a overbust/midbust mockup if          8) Keep a neutral relaxed stance when fitting.
   you don't plan on wearing it under a finished corset!           No bending, extending or arm lifting!
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                  www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA        22
                                                 Fitting a Corset Mockup (2/8)
                                                                        NOW WHAT???
       After assessing the mockup closely, as well as marking and taking note of all fit problems that it has, it's time to start applying potential solutions.
      Since the mockup is made in such a way that all seam lines and seam allowances are accessible, we focus all of the fitting changes on the seam lines.
                                For consistent results, keep as organized as possible, working on ONE problem area at a time!
In the rare case of not having enough seam allowance width to sew new seam lines to enlarge the mockup size, a completely new mockup should be made.
Use the difference between back lacing gap of the mockup and pattern as a guide when deciding how many sizes
to go up.
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                                                            Fitting a Corset Mockup (3/8)
PROBLEM AREA'S TOO LOOSE!
On marked areas that are too loose, we want to pinch the mockup on the seam line until it sits snug on the body. Basically, we are making a „dart“ deeper.
When we are working with a larger area, we might get best results if we spread the adjustments on more than one seam line in that problem area.
First pinch the seam line. Play with it a bit. See and feel what looks good. When you are happy with the temporary adjustment, mark the new seam line on the area you are
adjusting. Pin or clip the change in place before moving to the next problem area.
Nothing is set in stone! You can always come back and readjust the initial changes made.
1) Identify the area that                                     2) Pinch the seam line(s)                                       3) Pin or clip the seam
is too loose/large by                                         where the mockup feels                                          line where you want to
poking your hand under                                        very loose. (Figure 61)                                         remove fabric. (Figure 62)
mockup edge to feel the
fit. (Figure 60)                                              Do it just enough fabric to                                     Clips are a bit easier to
                                                              have the mockup sit snug                                        use when fitting mockups
A snug fit without the                                        on the body.                                                    on yourself but pins work
edges pressing into soft                                                                                                      just as well.
tissues is preferred.                                         If the pinched fabric
                                                              created pulling in other                                        Have a look at the fit of
Fit can be slightly on the                                    mockup areas, pinch                                             this area. Is there any
looser side but not enough                                    neighboring seams to                                            wrinkling/gaping that can
to easily shove your hand          Figure 60 : Too loose      spread out the reduction.       Figure 61 : Pinching the seam   be improved by fiddling           Figure 62 : Using clips to hold
under the mockup.                                                                                                             with the same seam line?             pinched fit adjustment
4) When happy with the                                        5) In the case of spreading                                     6) Address fit issues in
shape & amount of                                             the adjustment over more                                        problem area as best as
adjustment, mark out the                                      than one seam line, work                                        you can before moving to
shape of new seam line.                                       with one seam at a time!                                        a different problem area.
(Figure 63)                                                   (Figure 64)                                                     (Figure 65)
Mark the new seam line                                        Repeat the same process,                                        It’s OK if it doesn’t look
on BOTH sides!                                                same way just on a                                              perfect!
                                                              different seam line.
Fine tip marker/pen work                                                                                                      When an area is not
the best for this job.                                        Remember! Things are not                                        cooperating, leave it &
                                                              set in stone! You can go                                        move on. You can always
                                  Figure 63 : Marking new     back & readjust things.           Figure 64 : Adjusting the     come back to it & give it           Figure 65 : Problem area
                                         seam line                                                  other seam line           another try later.                     adjusted and fitted
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                               www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA             24
                                                                Fitting a Corset Mockup (4/8)
PROBLEM AREA'S TOO TIGHT!
We are looking at signs of unpleasant pressure and/or flesh spilling over the corset edges. Top or bottom edge, doesn’t matter.
Since the problems is the complete opposite of the too loose problem, instead of pinching a seam line on the problem area, we cut it open. Be gentle and take it slowly!
This method is sometimes referred to as “slash and spread”. Similar method is used in manipulating flat drafted patterns.
Different fit problems require different solutions. This is very true when it comes to ADDING room as opposed to removing it.
1) Start by making the                                           2) Locate the area where                                        3) You can gently rip the
ribcage edge & Iliac Crest                                       there is the most flesh                                         seam line. Be careful not
on the mockup for a better                                       spilling over mockup edge                                       to over do it! (Figure 68)
idea of ones hard skeletal                                       and carefully cut the seam
limits. (Figure 66)                                              line open. (Figure 67)                                          Depth of the rip depends
                                                                                                                                 on fit issue area but start
We can’t move bone and                                           Be very careful not to cut                                      with less that you think is
most discomfort fit issues                                       the fabric of the mockup,                                       needed. You can always
are tied to lack of space                                        clothing or flesh!                                              make it deeper.
over skeletal bones.
                                                                 Slow & steady wins the                                          Short stitch length is
Shape between ribcage &                                          race!                                                           keeping the mockup
Iliac Crest is much softer       Figure 66 : Marked ribcage                                      Figure 67 : Cutting seam line   together so don’t skip               Figure 68 : Seam line
& more malleable.                                                                                     using thread snips         that step!                                opened up
4) Cut a piece of fabric a                                       5) Adjust the other seam                                        6) When you are satisfied
bit larger than the size of                                      line in place. Do your best                                     with the adjustment done
adjustment & insert it on                                        to create a comfortable &                                       to a seam line, mark the
the inside. Pin one seam                                         flattering shape.                                               new seam line on fabric
line to the fabric insert.                                       Pin everything down!                                            insert. (Figure 71)
(Figure 69)                                                      (Figure 70)
                                                                                                                                 Find the middle of the
Make sure everything is                                          If the amount of inserted                                       added space on the widest
smooth! Fabric, mockup,                                          space is very wide,                                             point & connect it to the
seam allowance...                                                explore the option of                                           mockup seam line using a
everything!                                                      opening another seam line                                       flexible ruler.
                                                                 & spreading the extra
Now you can safely play        Figure 69 : One side seam line    space over two (or more)        Figure 70 : Other seam line     Repeat the same on ALL             Figure 71 : New seam line
with the adjustment.               pinned to fabric insert       seam lines.                     adjusted & pinned to insert     other adjusted seam lines!           marked on fabric insert
                        COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                 www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA           25
                                                                  Fitting a Corset Mockup (5/8)
First method for ADDING room for a more comfortable smoother fit focuses on a corset that fits so tight in places, if forces soft flesh over the edges. Adjustment is fairly straight
forward & simple to do because the seam gets opened from the edge towards the waist line.
This isn’t the only fit issue that gets solved by ADDING space.
Ribcage & hip bones (Iliac Crest in particular) can be especially sensitive to pressure which can lead to discomfort even if the general fit doesn’t look bad.
In this case, it is better to target that specific problem area instead of ripping the seam line apart from the edge & potentially interfering with well fitting areas of the mockup.
Inspect your mockup carefully before deciding what fitting method to apply to the problem area!
4) When seam allowance                                             5) Pin other seam line to                                        6) Finish the fitting
width isn’t enough to add                                          fabric insert when happy                                         adjustment by marking
needed room, use fabric                                            with the fit. (Figure 76)                                        the new seam line on the
inserts. Pin one seam line                                                                                                          dead middle of added
to secure it in place.                                             As always, adjustment can                                        fabric! (Figure 77)
(Figure 75)                                                        be applied to multiple
                                                                   seam lines.                                                      If needed, repeat the same
Insert needs to be larger                                                                                                           process on ALL seam lines
than the size of the needed                                        Also, it can be revisited &                                      affected by this
adjustment.                                                        changes later in the fitting                                     adjustment.
                                                                   process.
Fiddle around with the
shape & fit of problem           Figure 75 : One side seam line    Don’t stress out over the        Figure 76 : Other seam line                                        Figure 77 : New seam line
area for best results.               pinned to fabric insert       idea of perfection!              adjusted & pinned to insert                                         marked on fabric insert
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                                                               Fitting a Corset Mockup (6/8)
NOT SATISFIED WITH EDGE SHAPE?
With the vast majority of fit issues addressed with pinching, pinning and ripping, we can finally have a look at the general shaping of mockup edges.
The easiest change to do is to shorten the edge line. Draw the new edge shape on the mockup with a pen.
1) Visualize the new edge                                       2) Start by marking the                                           3) Press the seam allow-
shape by taking pictures                                        highest point of the new                                          ances to the side & down
of the mockup worn &                                            edge shape. (Figure 79)                                           to be a nice flat surface. It
doodling on them.                                                                                                                 makes it easier to draw
(Figure 78)                                                     Always have pictures                                              the edge shape over it.
                                                                handy for reference.                                              (Figure 80)
Take your time. Play
around with ideas.                                              Don’t focus on getting it                                         Keep in mind that seam
                                                                perfect. Just do it!                                              allowances on the outside
Having design sketches is                                       Adjust it as you go.                                              of mockup does make it a
great but pictures tell a                                                                                                         bit more difficult draw on
more detailed story.                                                                                                              the mockup as well as it
                                Figure 78 : New bottom edge                                     Figure 79 : Marking the highest   makes the corset look a            Figure 80 : Pressing seam
                                       shape visualized                                                  shape point              bit more bulky.                         allowance down
4) When you are happy                                           5) Draw the edge line in                                          Even though it is rather challenging to do any type of
with the shape of the front                                     the back as far as possible.                                      fitting adjustment on the back of the mockup, out goal is
part of new edge, start                                         Pull the mockup edge to                                           to do the very best that we can while wearing the
working on marking the                                          prevent wrinkling of                                              mockup.
back portion. (Figure 81)                                       fabric due to torso twist-
                                                                ing.                                                              Many things can & should be further adjusted, smoothed
Use a mirror/smart phone                                        (Figure 82)                                                       out, after the fitting session.
as much as possible to
help out with working on                                        Pulling on the mockup                                             In the case that you aren’t able to do much of
back parts.                                                     also helps us anchor on to                                        adjustments on the back of the mockup, consider divid-
                                                                the mockup, to better                                             ing the fitting process in more stages.
Don’t expect lines to be                                        focus on drawing the new
tidy. That’s OK. Clean          Figure 81 : Staring the back    edge line.                      Figure 82 : Pulling the mockup    Unlace the mockup. Make some eyeballed changes to the
them up later.                      part of bottom edge                                              down while twisting          back of it. Try the mockup AGAIN. See how it fits.
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                                                              Fitting a Corset Mockup (7/8)
Extending or raising an edge on a mockup is a bit more complicated just because we have to ADD instead of reduce.
A few pieces of mockup fabric, some pins, ruler & a sharpie is all you need to create a longer/higher corset edge.
Everything starts with building up more space so we can simply draw new shapes and designs on it. Rest is totally up to you.
This method is not a very good choice for turning an underbust corset into an overbust.
Too much work. Simply not worth it. There are other much better ways.
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                                                Fitting a Corset Mockup (8/8)
ALL of these methods can be applied to problem areas anywhere on the mockup, be it close to the mockup edges or smack dab in the middle of it.
Take in or let out the seam line where ever it is needed, how ever much is needed!Any fit adjustment made on one side of the mockup NEEDS to be made on
the other side as well.
Try to copy the adjustments as close as possible.
By doing this, mockup will reveal if all adjustments work well together. If there is a need to go back and make more modifications.
During the fitting process, you might have to work with asymmetry „issues“.
When this is the case, there are two options.
        1. Fit the two sides separately for a close fit on the natural shape.
        2. Fit the larger side (in comparison) of the mockup with the goal of padding out the shape for the other side, to achieve visual symmetry.
They are a matter of preference as well as the use of the finished corset but one thing is for sure, another mockup MUST to be made to achieve a good fit!
It will ALWAYS be difficult to fit a mockup on oneself! There is no way around it.
To get a proper fit, it might be necessary to lace in and out of the mockup a couple of time to achieve a proper fit in the back of the mockup.
Expect a lot of trial and error as it is a part of the process.
That said, it is well worth it as all the hard work will result in a comfortable and beautiful corset.
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                                          Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (1/9)
With the mockup made (Page 18) and fitting done (Page 22), it is time to move ALL changes from the mockup to the pattern!
This can be a bit confusing when starting out but every new skill is confusing and frustrating simply because it’s new and we have no idea what we’re doing. Good news is that it’s
just a new skill and ALL skills can be learned.
No part of corset making is an intuitive talent you are just born with. Everything can be learned... including the art of moving changes from mockup to pattern.
Since everyone is a bit different, every mockup and fit adjustments will be different so it’s only to be expected that the process of moving those changes to the pattern will also be
very different, from person to person. From project to project. No way around it really.
Having the ability fully customize a garment to the individuals uniqueness is the biggest privilege of knowing how to make clothing.
Cherish it!
• Start by laying the mockup and corresponding pattern         Having an overall too big or too small mockup are both          YOU WILL NEED:
  on your table.                                               major fit issues and should be addressed first.
  Be sure the work area is well lit.                           (Page 31)                                                               • Fitted mockup
                                                                                                                                       • Fitting notes
• Take fitting notes and go through it. Point by point.        Most “spot” fit issues fall under one of these two                      • Pattern (used to make the mockup)
  Issues by issue.                                             categories:
  This way we make sure to go through all fit issues.                                                                                  • Measuring tape
                                                                        1) Fit is too tight (Page 34 & 35)
                                                                                                                                       • Ruler
• Work on ONE issue at a time!                                          2) Fit is too loose (Page 32 & 33)
                                                                                                                                       • Pen
                                                                                                                                       • Sheets of paper
• Locate the solution that addresses the issue, on the
  mockup.                                                      Each of those differs based on it’s location on the corset:
                                                                                                                                       • Sticky tape (Scotch tape is great)
                                                                        a) On an edge of the corset (Page 32 & 34)
• Study the adjustment made on the mockup and                           b) On a seam of the corset (Page 33 & 35)
  measure it in great detail.
  Yes, we want to know it’s eye color and shoe size.
                                                               Fit adjustements can sometimes include a change of
• Replicate the adjustment from the mockup to the              length and/or shape of corset edges:
  pattern as appropriate.                                               I) Edge shortening (Page 36)
                                                                       II) Edge lengthening (Page 37)
• There can be more than one adjustment needed
  on the same area.
                                                               On following pages, you will find simple examples of
 ALWAYS address major fit issue first!                         each of the fit issues and how to move changes from                             Figure 89 : Mockup, pattern
                                                               mockup to pattern.                                                                       and tools
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                                         Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (2/9)
MAJOR FIT ISSUES
In this case, we are talking about working with a mockup that is generally too large or too small. Instead of scraping the “wrong” mockup in favor of creating a new one, in the
proper size, we made the “wrong” mockup overall larger or smaller in size. This is usually done by evenly taking in or out the mockup on majority of seams, if not ALL of them.
(Page 23)
When this is done to a mockup, we can’t go back and pick a pattern in a different “proper” size because the rest of the fit adjustments made might not result in a better fit. This is why
we want to work with the original starting pattern and make ALL adjustment on it. Including recreating the general resize of the mockup.
Such large pattern adjustments NEED to be done FIRST as they will affect everything else done on the pattern. Yes, it is a bit time consuming but well worth the effort.
1) Measure the difference                                       2) Take ALL pattern                                              3) Measure & mark the
the starting seam line &                                        pieces affected by the                                           difference between
size adjusted seam line.                                        major size adjustment.                                           original & adjusted seam
(Figure 90)                                                     (Figure 91)                                                      line on to the pattern.
                                                                                                                                 (Figure 92)
Check on multiple points                                        Order them as they are to
for more accuracy.                                              be sewn together so you                                          Make sure your ruler is
                                                                don’t miss any as you                                            ALWAYS at a right angle
                                                                work on them.                                                    on the seam line!
4) Connect ALL marked                                           5) Repeat the process on       Example shown in the tutorial demonstrates how to make the original pattern overall
spots into a smooth line to                                     ALL pattern pieces that        smaller but keep in mind that the process for making it larger is generally the same.
create the new seam line.                                       need this adjustment.          Only difference is on which side of the original seam the adjustment needs to be
(Figure 93)                                                                                    measured & marked.
                                                                Check if all the right
Use a French curve if you                                       pattern pieces have been       If your pattern pieces don’t have added seam allowances on them, you HAVE to tape
have access to it.                                              altered before moving on       pattern pieces on to more paper to make room for drawing on the new seam line, in case
                                                                to other fit pattern           of general pattern enlargement.
                                                                adjustments!
                                                                                               With the major fit issue transfered from the mockup to the pattern, the pattern is ready
                                                                                               for fit “spot treatments”. (Page 30)
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TOO LOOSE - ON AN EDGE
                                          Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (3/9)
Personally, I prefer (and highly recommend) to start with the removal of extra space “spot treatments”. Specifically those located on the edges as they are easiest to do.
There is, usually, no need to add bits of paper, size of the adjustment is fairly small and they are very easy to measure on the mockup. All in all, a great warm up!
If there are any changes to the edge length or shape (Page 36 & 37), address the “spot treatment” FIRST and apply the length adjustment LAST.
Your gut might be telling you otherwise but, trust me, guts have no idea what they are talking about.
ALWAYS start to move changes from mockup to pattern by identifying the adjustment area on the mockup!
Remove clips if the are getting in the way of measuring.
1) Measure the length of                                       2) Measure the width of                                         3) Take pattern pieces that
the adjustment from the                                        the adjustment on the                                           connect on the seam line
closest corset edge to the                                     closest edge. (Figure 95)                                       that’s being addressed.(-
point where the                                                                                                                Figure 96)
adjustment connects to the                                     Feel free to measure the
unaltered seam line.                                           width between old & new                                         Measure & mark the
(Figure 94)                                                    seam line on a couple                                           length of seam
                                                               different places of its                                         adjustment on both
With a flexible ruler, it is                                   length for more accuracy.                                       pattern pieces.
possible to measure the
length on the curved seam                                                                                                      Ignore top & bottom seam
lines.                                                                                                                         allowances if there are
                                Figure 94 : Measuring length                                    Figure 95 : (Black) Old seam   any!                              Figure 96 : Measuring length
                                    from edge of mockup                                               (Red) New seam                                                     on pattern
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                                           Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (4/9)
TOO LOOSE - ON A SEAM
This pattern adjustement method is very similar to the TOO LOOSE - ON AN EDGE but the widest point of the adjustement is not located on the edge of the corset. It’s deeper on
the seam line.
Position makes it a bit trickier to do, both as an adjustement on the mockup and when moving it on to the pattern.
Other than that, they are basically the same.
Yes, it is possible to have a combination adjustement where the change starts off on the edge but the widest point of the adjustement is located further in the seam line lengths.
Not a big deal really, just make sure to measure twice!
1) Locate the 3 major                                               2) Measure the lengths                                     3) Take pattern pieces that
adjustement points : Start,                                         from the nearest edge to                                   connect on the seam line
End & Widest Point.                                                 ALL 3 major point.                                         that’s getting adjusted.
(Figure 100)                                                        (Figure 101)                                               (Figure 102)
                                  Figure 100 : (Black) Old seam                                       Figure 101 : Measuring                                      Figure 102 : Pattern pieces
                              (Red) New seam & adjustement points                                       adjustement points                                         affected by adjustement
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                                          Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (5/9)
TOO TIGHT - ON AN EDGE
After I’m done with ALL “spot” reductions, I move on to areas that need adding more room for comfort and better fit. As per usual, I start with enlargements located on edges.
Don’t remove pins holding fabric inserts securely on the mockup just yet but do check if they are laying flat on the fabric. Reposition pins if needed as well as add more to make it
more secure.
Be careful while handling the mockup not to pull out any pins by accident or to move fabric inserts out of place!
When measuring inserts themselves, try to have them lay flat as possible on your work surface.
Take notice of any wrinkling! There’s probably a curve hidden in the insert.
1) Measure the length of                                         2) Measure the width of                                           3) Measure & mark the
the fabric insert following                                      the fabric insert right on                                        length of the enlargement
the original seam line.                                          the edge.                                                         insert down the seam line,
(Figure 106)                                                     (Figure 107)                                                      starting from the edge.
                                                                                                                                   (Figure 108)
Measure both sides!                                              Measure the width on the
                                                                 point where the insert lifts                                      Ignore top & bottom seam
Check if the insert lays                                         from the table.                                                   allowances if there are
flat on table with ease.                                                                                                           any!
If not, locate where it lifts                                    Divide the values in half
up and measure that point                                        for later.                                                        Do the same for the point
from the edge.                                                                                                                     where the insert didn’t lay
                                  Figure 106 : Insert length                                      Figure 107 : Full insert width   flat.                              Figure 108 : Insert length
We need to curve the seam                                                                                                                                                transfer on pattern
there!
4) On the edge, measure                                          5) Connect ALL marked                                             6) Feel free to examine &
& mark half of insert                                            points together to create                                         remeasure the mockup
width. (Figure 109)                                              the shape of the new seam                                         more than once.
                                                                 line. (Figure 110)                                                (Figure 111)
Do the same on the other
marked point.                                                    Try to match the shape of                                         Things might have been
                                                                 the adjustment on the                                             missed on the first time
Add paper to extend the                                          mockup.                                                           around.
pattern piece if needed!
                                                                 Make sure new seam lines                                          Seam lengths & other
Ruler should always be on                                        are mirror images of                                              details will be finished
the right angle to seam                                          themselves!                                                       with another round of
line!                           Figure 109 : Half insert width                                    Figure 110 : New seam lines      seam walking. (Page 16)        Figure 111 : (Black) Old seam lines
                                     transfer on pattern                                               marked & shaped                                                 (Red) Adjusted seam lines
                        COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                  www.araneablack.com                          FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA            34
                                          Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (6/9)
TOO TIGHT - ON A SEAM
Last but not least, enlargement adjustment on a seam line.
These usually happen around edge of rib cage and the very top of hip bones. It’s basically a must do adjustment for small sizes and/or large waist reductions.
Sometimes, the tinniest bit of extra space is just what’s needed for a very comfortable corset. Since this adjustment can be very very small, it can also be a bit annoying to fit and
move from mockup to pattern. Again, well worth the effort.
Be patient. Measure and remeasure as many times as needed to get it just right.
Mark them on the mockup                                           Measure the width                                               Add extra pieces of paper
for easier measuring.                                             between new & old seam                                          if there is no room on the
                                                                  lines at the Widest Point.                                      pattern for the adjustment.
                                Figure 112 : Adjustement spot                                       Figure 113 : Measuring                                           Figure 114 : Pattern pieces
                                         on mockup                                                 adjustement point lengths                                              getting adjusted
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                                          Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (7/9)
LENGTH ADJUSTMENT - SHORTENING AN EDGE
When I’m done with everything else, big fit issues and ALL “spot” treatments for both reducing and enlarging, I am ready to address the length and shape changes of edges.
As usual, making things shorter is easier than lengthening them. Same way it’s easier to take out extra fabric compared to adding it. For this reason, I prefer to deal with edge changes
that shorten the mockup.
Shortening can cover just a small area like one pattern piece or the whole width of the corset, with the adjustment stretching over ALL pattern pieces. From front all the way to the
back but that doesn’t matter. Moving changes from mockup to pattern is the same.
Apply edge changes as needed, where needed and use the mockup as your guide!
1) Figure out what & how                                         2) Measure all seams                                              3) Measure & mark the
many pattern pieces are                                          affected by shortening on                                         lengths from old to new
effected by the edge                                             their connecting seam                                             edge on ALL affected
shortening adjustment by                                         lines, from old edge to                                           pattern pieces.
examining the mockup.                                            new. (Figure 119)                                                 (Figure 120)
(Figure 118)
                                                                 Write all measured values                                         Ignore added seam
New edge shape CAN                                               down to avoid mix ups                                             allowances if they are
require that some pattern                                                                                                          present on the pattern!
pieces need shortening                                           It is enough to measure
while others need to be                                          the adjustment on just one                                        Double check everything!
lengthen, to achieve the                                         side of the seam.
drawn look.                     Figure 118 : Examining edge                                      Figure 119 : Measuring lengths                                      Figure 120 : Measuring length
Focus on shortening first!         adjustment on mockup                                          from old to new edge, on seam                                      from old to new edge, on paper
4) With ALL new edge                                             5) When new edge line                                             6) Make any necessary
points measured &                                                runs through more than 2                                          pattern adjustments such
marked, (Figure 121)                                             pattern pieces, for best                                          as edge lengthening, seam
connect them together to                                         results, temporarily tape                                         walking, adding seam
for the shape of the new                                         together ALL pieces.                                              allowances & similar,
seam line.                                                       (Figure 122)                                                      BEFORE trimming
                                                                                                                                   excess pieces paper.
On front & back center                                           Seams should be walked                                            (Figure 123)
seam line, draw a short                                          from the waist line to the
line on right angle to the                                       marked point of the new                                           Seam lengths & other
seam for a smooth curve.                                         edge shape.                                                       details will be finished
                                                                                                                                   with another round of
Ignore this step if front &     Figure 121 : Preparing pattern   Make adjustments to the        Figure 122 : Patter pieces taped   seam walking. (Page 16)           Figure 123 : (Red) New edge
back edge ends in points!        pieces for drawing new edge     new edge as needed!              together & new edge drawn                                                (Black) Old edge
                       COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                   www.araneablack.com                          FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA            36
                                         Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (8/9)
LENGTH ADJUSTMENT - LENGTHENING AN EDGE
As with edge shortening, lengthening can be focused on a small area like one or two pattern pieces. Or it can encompass the full length of the corsets edge, stretching over ALL
pattern pieces from front to the back center.
When lengthening the edge, additional spaces needs to be added to affected pattern pieces by taping on pieces of paper where needed, as much as needed.
Have your sticky tape ready!
Use the mockups as your guide. Examine and measure it thoroughly especially if the edge shape requires a combination of shortening AND lengthening!
                      COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                                  www.araneablack.com                         FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA             37
               Moving Changes from Mockup to Pattern (9/9)
    At this point, you should have moved all changes from mockup to corset pattern making the pattern almost ready to be used
                                  to make another mockup, for more testing, or a gorgeous corset.
Since it’s better to be safe than sorry, make sure to check EVERYTHING once again!
                  Make sure ALL fit adjustements have been addressed and transfered from mockup to pattern.
                  Remeasure every adjustement done to catch any potential mistakes that might have happened.
               Walk the seams and make any needed adjustements to make sure seams will sew together correctly.
                              Add seam allowances if you prefer having them on the paper pattern.
                                                   Don’t forget about notches!
When you are sure you have done ALL the necesserry steps, get sewing!
COPYRIGHT © 2020 ARANEABLACK                             www.araneablack.com                        FREE Simple Underbust Corset Pattern LOLITA   38
                                            Simple Underbust Corset Pattern - LOLITA - doesn’t come with sewing instructions.
                                          You are free to apply any corset construction method that you like, enjoy or are intrigued by.
                                     Since internet is filled with many different sources of amazing information on everything and anything
                                        corset related, there are many corset construction methods available for you to pick and try out.
                                   I have made and documented a couple of corsets, from start to finish, in a form of a multi-part video series.
                                                They are available on YouTube for your viewing pleasure if you are interested.
                                                    Visit www.youtube.com/araneablack to watch and LEARN MORE!
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                                                         corset construction instructions and other useful information!
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