STB BT Food A5
STB BT Food A5
A r t i c l e s P u b l i s h e d i n B o r n e o Ta l k
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Sarawak flavours
Talks of Sarawak food bring up images of exotic delicacies of the multi-ethnic communities here. But there’s more to
Sarawak’s epicurean offerings than pansoh manuk, nuba’ laya, linut, kasom ikien, etc. Sure, exotic foods are a must
when you come to this part of the world, but if you’re not ready for extreme flavours or textures, there are less exotic
dishes that are just as lip-smackingly delicious and distinctively Sarawakian.
A must-try dish is Nasi Sarawakians love their Midin. This tasty wild fern grows abundantly all over
Goreng Dabai, for which Sarawak and can even be seen on roadsides. Depending on your preference,
the dabai (Canarium you can have your Midin cooked with just garlic,
odontophyllum) fruit is used. with belacan (fermented shrimp paste), or even
Often likened to black olives a la Thai salad. A must-try if it’s your first
due to its shape and colour, time visiting Sarawak.
it is described as tasting
somewhat like avocado. The
fruit is often eaten on its
own, but also makes a great
addition to fried rice, lending
creaminess to the dish.
Nasi Aruk, a Sarawakian Malay dish, is essentially fried rice minus the oil, save for the frying of
ingredients like anchovies and onions. Once brought to a crisp, the anchovies and onions are introduced
to rice, and the mixture is wok-fried without oil to allow the flavours to permeate through the rice.
The end result is a fragrant dish that is savoury, slightly briny and most importantly, a lot less greasy
compared to fried rice. At Window on the Lake, a restaurant at Pustaka Negeri Sarawak, you can order
the dish on its own or add a side order of Bandung Goreng (Deep Fried Tapioca with Sambal).
2 • Sarawak FOOD
The Baba Nyonya of Sarawak have their Traditionally, sago is a staple for the Melanau. Harvested from
unique ways of preparing food, often sago palms, which grow especially abundantly in Mukah – the
blending Chinese and Malay elements Heartland of the Melanau, sago can be enjoyed in several
just like the Baba Nyonya of Penang ways, including Linut (coagulated sago resulting from adding
and Melaka, but at the same time boiling water into a mixture of sago starch as well as room
using a combination of ingredients and temperature water). However, if you’re not ready for the
techniques that make them uniquely gooey consistency of Linut, you may opt for Tumpik. It’s
Sarawakian. i-Café Kuching’s Nyonya essentially a pancake made with sago and dried coconut
style Assam Pedas is an amazing flakes. Simple, fragrant and delicious!
combo of sweet, sour and spicy. The
fish of choice is a species locally known
as Ikan Jan. Preparation is essential to
eliminate the strong fishy smell of Ikan
Jan, and i-Café does it so well that they
can easily have non fans of the fish fall
in love with it at the first bite.
Do these make your mouth water already? Try some of these local delicacies for yourself
when you come visit Sarawak, and see if you like them as much as the locals do.
3. Window on the Lake, Kuching (Halal) 4. Payung Café, Sibu (No Pork & No Lard) 5. Madli’s, Miri (Halal)
For Nasi Goreng Dabai, Nasi Aruk & Tumpik. Also try their For Kacangma Chicken. Try also their For Nasi Aruk. Don’t forget to try their satay,
Bandung Goreng (Deep Fried Tapioca) with Sambal. Payung Rojak. which has received rave reviews.
Address: Window on the Lake, Pustaka Negeri Sarawak, Jalan Address: 20F Lanang Road (In front of Address: Lot 1088 Ground Floor, Jln Merpati, Miri.
Pustaka, Off Jalan Stadium, Petra Jaya, Kuching. Kingwood Hotel multi-level carpark), Sibu. T: +6085 426 615 FB: madlisrestaurant
T: +6082 442 000 T: +6016 890 6061 FB: PayungCafe
Sarawak FOOD • 3
Taste of the wild
4 • Sarawak FOOD
Tepus Isip leaf
Also known as tuhau or upak kechalak among the It is scientifically known as Phrynium maximum
locals, Tepus (Etlingera coccinea) is a particularly versatile Blume – a rather lengthy name. But to the people of
wild herb that has grown to become a favourite among the beautiful Kelabit Highlands, it is simply known as
many. It grows wild in the jungles of Sarawak, although Isip leaf. Commonly found in the wild, Isip leaf is also
the tepus has found its way into people’s gardens where being cultivated, particularly around Pa Dalih area in
they are kept as decorative plants. the Kelabit Highlands.
Incredibly aromatic, tepus is often eaten raw with Isip leaves are commonly used by the Orang Ulu to
sambal belacan, along with a serving of white rice. prepare their iconic wrapped rice known as Nuba
That alone is adequately satisfying. But the tepus can Laya. Cooked Bario rice is first mashed while still
be enjoyed in many more ways than one. piping hot. The mashed rice is then wrapped in a
single Isip leaf before it is served along with other
The tepus shoot is also crushed and stir-fried along dishes. The result of this is a fragrant mashed rice that
with tapioca leaves and anchovies, or cooked with also has an “enhanced” flavour.
meat, poultry, or fish in soups and pansoh dishes. The
amount used in these dishes really depends on one’s
personal preference. Some don’t mind just a hint of
its aroma and taste, while some prefer a huge dose in
their dishes. Remember though, that tepus has a rather
pungent smell that some have likened to an insect
the locals call kesing (Pentatomoidea), so it’s not really
everyone’s cup of tea.
Sarawak FOOD • 5
Terung Asam Asam Embang
The name simply translates as sour eggplant, and it Scientifically known as Mangifera pajang, this wild
is also called terung Dayak perhaps because it is a mango endemic to the island of Borneo goes by
common ingredient used by the Dayak folks in Sarawak. several different names. Asam Embang is what the
Malay of Sarawak call this fruit. Another Malay name
Unlike the common aubergine, terung asam is round for it is Bua Embawang. The Iban folk call it Bua
and has dark green skin that turns yellow when the Mawang. The Bidayuh call it Asom Bawang.
fruit ripens. The flesh is firm and bright yellow in
colour, while the soft central cavity contains small Asam Embang is distinctive in a number of ways.
seeds that can be easily scooped out and discarded. Firstly, the fruit is round and about the size of a
cannonball. A single fruit can weigh up to 1kg.
Rich in vitamin C, calcium, fibre, phosphorus, and
potassium, terung asam is sour with a hint of Unlike most mango species that have yellow or
sweetness, making it perfect for soups. Cut up some reddish skin when fully ripened, Asam Embang has
and throw it in a pot of water with some lemongrass, thick brown skin. When ripe, the flesh of the Asam
chilli, ginger, and your choice of protein (fish, poultry, Embang is not overly sweet and has a more unique
or meat) and you’ve got yourself a delicious Sarawak- flavour compared to the common mango. Its flesh is
style sour and spicy soup. Some like to use smoked also very fibrous as opposed to that of the common
fish to give their soup a more intense flavour. mango.
Another popular way of eating terung asam is by Asam Embang can be enjoyed as is, juiced, or mixed
grilling it over an open fire until the skin gets charred, with belacan, dried anchovies, chillies, etc. to make
and the flesh turns soft. The flesh is then pounded sambal. It’s not just delicious to eat, but its rich
in a pestle and mortar along with belacan (shrimp antioxidant content is also good for the skin, protects
paste), chilli, anchovies, and other ingredients to against coronary heart disease, and has anti-cancer
make it into sambal. Perfect over steamed white rice. properties.
6 • Sarawak FOOD
Ensabi Asam paya
This one’s not for those who can’t handle Asam paya is a type of palm that thrives in swampy areas. Its
intense flavours. Ensabi (Brassica juncea (L.) fruit is also known as maram fruit or asam kelubi. It appears
Czern. var. Ensabi) is basically local mustard, almost 100 percent similar to the sweet salak fruit. They both
and a very bitter one! Like a lot of the unique have scaly skin and are about the same size. But don’t let its
vegetables in Sarawak, the ensabi thrived in familiar appearance fool you.
the wild but is now being cultivated by the
indigenous communities here, primarily the Peel off the skin to find that the flesh of the asam paya (Eleiodoxa
Iban and Bidayuh. They can also be found in conferta) is slightly brownish in colour. And instead of being sweet,
farmers markets all over Sarawak. the flesh of the asam paya is extremely sour! But that sourness
is something the locals just can’t get enough of. In fact, a mere
Ensabi leaves are often bruised and stir-fried mention of asam paya can induce drooling in avid fans of the fruit!
with just garlic and anchovies. A substantial
amount of salt can be added to counter Asam paya is often made into sambal, with some belacan
the intense pungency and bitterness of the (shrimp paste), anchovies, sugar, and chilli. Submerge the fruit
ensabi leaves. Some add fried pork fat bits for in sugar water and let it sit for several days, and you’ll have
texture and extra flavour. a delicious sweet and sour snack. The Melanau folk in Igan
traditionally use asam paya to make their ceviche-like fish dish
A popular way to enjoy ensabi is to preserve called umai. No onions, ginger or other ingredients necessary.
it in some salt and water from boiled rice.
Some add sugar for a tiny bit of sweetness. Besides the ones mentioned here, there are plenty other wild
After several days of fermentation in a well- flavours of Sarawak that are a delicacy to the locals, such as
sealed jar, you have yourself some kasam kepayang, midin, paku, umbut, engkala, terap, as well as the
ensabi (preserved ensabi). Simply stir-fry unique durian nyeka and durian isu. Some are seasonal while
with some garlic, anchovies, and chili for a others can be found all year round. Now that travelling is
satisfying meal! possible again, do feel free to come to Sarawak and experience
these uniquely amazing wild flavours yourself. They might just
turn out to be your most favourite foods ever!
Sarawak FOOD • 7
Delicious halal
8 • Sarawak FOOD
Chinese dishes (Halal versions)
Like your favourite ice-blended cold drink, Sarawak blends and mixes the tastes and cultures of all its residents, local and foreign,
to create a unique fusion of flavour that is displayed in Sarawakian food. People from all backgrounds that have journeyed to and
settled in Sarawak have had a hand in lending flavours from their motherland to create new types of food and delicacies uniquely
Sarawakian for all of us to enjoy.
As Sarawakians live harmoniously in unity, love happens and so do intermarriages, and not only do these give birth to racial
harmony among Sarawakians, it also translates to what we put in our plates. Today, it’s not difficult to find halal versions of
food that are originally non-halal, especially Chinese cuisine. Here are some examples:
Kampua Mee
Kampua Mee has Foochow origins and uses straight noodles It is basically a strip of dough, deep-fried until golden brown
instead of curly ones. Kampua Mee is usually coated either in and enjoyed as a snack or with a bowl of rice porridge.
soy sauce or chilli sauce, or you could have it white. Halal ones I Love Yoo • Permaisuri Imperial City Mall, Jalan Merpati, 98000 Miri,
are topped with chicken slices instead of pork. So, the next Sarawak . (open everyday from 10 am to 10 pm)
time you want to try something different for breakfast, give the
Kampua Mee a shot. Min Chiang Kueh (Apam balik)
It may come as a surprise to many people that the apam balik
Sadiqin Lim Kampua • Jalan Kampung Tupong Batu, Kampung Tupong
Tengah, 93050 Kuching, Sarawak . Tel: +60 16 666 3278 actually originates from China, despite having a widely known
YS Café • Kampung Nangka, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak (open every day except Malay name. Made halal by the Malays, the apam balik is now
Friday from 7:30 am to 4:30 pm) . Tel: +60 19 876 4848 one of Sarawak’s favourite desserts and can be found easily in
many street markets of Sarawak.
Tomato Crispy Mee
A sizzling thick, sweet and sour tomato gravy is poured over deep- Bao
fried crispy noodles. The heat of the gravy will soften the noodles This quintessentially Chinese steamed bun is traditionally
as they soak up the tasty tomato sauce. This might take a couple white in colour and packed with a delicious meat filling. Halal
of minutes, but it’s worth the wait! versions of Chinese steamed buns have been around for a
Tomato Mee Kampung Stampin Baru • Lor 4, Kampung Stutong Baru, while now, filled with a variety of sweet or savoury fillings
93350 Kuching, Sarawak (opening time: everyday 6:30 am to 10:30 pm) such as black pepper chicken, BBQ chicken, chocolate and
many others.
Ang Ku Kueh
Dim Sum & Co. Kuching • 92, Lor Duranta 2, Taman Sejoli, 93050 Kuching,
Resembling a tortoise, Ang Ku Kueh is made from glutinous rice Sarawak (opening time: Sunday to Thursday from 4 pm to 10:30 pm . Friday
flour with a sweet mung bean, red bean or sometimes peanut and Saturday from 4 pm to 11 pm)
butter paste filling. Banana leaf on which it is placed lends a
beautiful aroma to the ‘kueh’. Halal ones are easily available Mee Sua
now and are a favourite for teatime. This almost thread-thin noodle has been adopted and
altered by the Malays to accommodate the community’s
Kacangma beliefs. The halal version is served in light chicken broth,
What started as a Hakka confinement dish is now regarded mushrooms, egg, scallions, and a chicken drumstick, minus
as one of Sarawak’s most unique and must-try food. Halal the Chinese cooking wine.
versions are now available too, without cooking wine added in.
Sadiqin Lim Kampua • Jalan Kampung Tupong Batu, Kampung Tupong
Aroma Cafe • 126, 122, Jalan Tabuan, Taman Budaya, 93100 Kuching, Sarawak Tengah, 93050 Kuching, Sarawak . Tel: +60 16 666 3278
. Tel: +60 82 417 163
Wonton
Yoo Tiao Another Chinese classic is the famous wonton. While it
One of the more famous street foods in Sarawak is the Yoo originally contains pork and shrimp, the halal version is made
Tiao or Cakoi. It is a very simple yet delicious Chinese delicacy. using chicken instead, with chicken broth poured over it.
Sarawak FOOD • 9
Muslim-friendly foods
that wow
“Wow”!
Looking for Muslim-friendly food outlets? Here are some go-to
outlets for awesome Muslim-friendly food that will make you go
kuching
Nasi Lemak
Ganja
Interesting name choice and honest-
to-God huge portions are their main
pulling factors. Their Nasi Lemak Biasa
(normal) comes with deep-fried chicken
Rojak Kucei
An old time favourite for their Indian style rojak famously
known by many as Rojak Kucei, which is made up of
tofu, vegetable fritters, beansprouts, cucumber, fried
chicken and a delicious sweet and spicy gravy.
10 • Sarawak FOOD
miri
Restoran
Muara
Think “lalapan”, think Restoran
Muara, one of the first eating
establishments in Miri to offer
the famous Indonesian dish
sibu
Contact: +6010 408 5526
Satria
Cendol Pulut
They’re new but they have been
making waves with their insanely
delicious cendol. Their signature
Cendol Pulut is a must. Try their
Cendol Durian, if the King of Fruits is
APN Manok
Nasi Ayam in season. Worth the 30-minute-or-so
drive from Sibu Town centre.
Tunuk
Ori Kampung Where: Satria Cendol Pulut,
Station 8
Baru Kampung Jeriah, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak
When: Tues-Fri from 2pm to 10pm Sink your teeth into some delicious
/ Sat & Sun from 12.30pm to 10pm charcoal BBQ chicken that’s chockfull
Prepared using a special family recipe, Contact: +6019 866 6046
of flavour. Their Ayam Panggang
their chicken rice has received rave Madu (Honey BBQ Chicken) is
reviews from the public and is always splendid. You can try their satays and
sold out. It’s a good idea to book other BBQ meats as well.
ahead just to be sure it doesn’t run out
when you get there. Where: Stall No. 8, Taman Harmoni, Jalan
Awang Ramli Amit, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak
Where: Popular Café, 2-20, Jln Morshidi Sidek, When: Daily from 6pm to 12am Contact:
Pekan Sibu, 96000 Sibu, Sarawak When: Daily +6010 907 9936
from 9am – 4pm Contact: +6013 829 4699
Sarawak FOOD • 11
Iconic food of Scan me to watch the video!
Sarawak’s Chinese
dialect groups
The Chinese migrated to Sarawak before the second World War. Their migration
occurred in stages, with one dialect group arriving after the other, bringing with
them their skills and expertise that would eventually result in them contributing
immensely to the growth of Sarawak and the local economy, through rice farming,
trading and many more.
They also brought with them their traditional cuisines, which have stood the test
of time and are today enjoyed by people from all walks of life here in Sarawak. No,
we’re not talking about Kolo Mee or Laksa Sarawak – we’re referring to traditional
food of the different dialect groups of Chinese who now call Sarawak home. Here
we list some of those iconic dishes:
One of the most famous dishes brought by the Hakka Chinese to Sarawak is Lei Cha.
Translated to English, Lei Cha means ‘thunder tea rice’. The name is derived from the process
of making this dish, which includes the “thunderous” pounding of its ingredients.
Traditionally Chinese and once consumed only by the poor, Lei Cha is enjoyed today by
Sarawakians from all walks of life, especially among the health-conscious. This healthy,
all-vegetable, nuts-and-grains dish consists of rice, toasted peanuts, and different kinds of
vegetables. Though the ingredients may vary, Lei Cha is traditionally made up of nine items,
including rice, soup and seven types of vegetables and nut-based toppings. The dish can be
eaten at any time of the day, even though traditionally it was consumed by the Hakka people
on the seventh day of the Lunar New Year.
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Mee Sua (Foochow) by @
Sibu’s Foochow community stepped foot on Sarawakian soil in 1901 in a large-scale
migration from China to Sibu, led by Chinese Revolutionary leader Wong Nai Siong. They
have since contributed immensely to Sibu’s growth turning it into one of Sarawak’s most
prominent towns.
The Foochow people also brought with them some of their traditional cuisines, which have
become part and parcel of Sarawakian food culture today. One of those iconic Foochow foods
is Mee Sua (long-life noodles) - a long thin noodle made from just wheat flour and salt and is
typically served on birthdays and other special occasions.
Although its production has been made more efficient through the use of modern
machinery, a handful of Mee Sua producers still make traditional hand-pulled Mee Sua.
12 • Sarawak FOOD
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Sarawak FOOD
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When in Sibu, make it a point to try their Red Wine Mee Sua, started selling these in push carts at first before eventually setting
which is long-life noodle in a red wine broth and comes with up coffee shops along Carpenter Street and selling them there.
chicken and hard-boiled egg. But Mee Sua is not only available
exclusively in Sibu. You can also find it in Kuching, Miri, Bintulu, But there’s one dish that’s more iconic than the coffee, kaya and
Sarikei and many other places throughout Sarawak, although curry, and that’s the famous Hainanese Chicken Rice. It’s a simple dish
Sibu’s Mee Sua is as authentic as it gets. that is an adaptation of the Hainanese dish Wenchang Chicken and
comprises poached chicken (although many call it steamed chicken),
flavoured rice and cucumber slices, served with a special chilli dip,
Henghua Noodle (Henghua) thick soy and soup.
The Henghua are among the smallest Chinese dialect groups in
Sarawak and were mostly fishermen. Those who lived in the more Today, one can find roasted or fried chicken rice in most shops in
urban areas were initially rickshaw peddlers. But after the second Sarawak, but none of these are as good as the original Hainanese
world war, some Henghua folks got into the business of trading Chicken Rice.
bicycles and spare parts.
Where cuisine is concerned, the Henghua of Sarawak are largely Hokkien Mee (Hokkien)
known for their Henghua Noodle. It is a very simple dish of rice The Hokkien were among the earliest settlers in Kuching and
noodles braised in a clear soup base, with some meat, seafood were mostly businessmen who occupied the urban areas. Many
and vegetable added in. The dish is seasoned with just salt and of them stayed near the Tua Pek Kong temple and ran most of the
light soy and topped with seaweed and roasted peanuts. trading companies in Kuching.
Henghua Noodle is light but satisfying, and is perfect at any time of Like the other Chinese dialects in Sarawak, the Hokkien also have
the day. It is not as widely sold as Kolo Mee or Laksa Sarawak, but their signature food. One of the most famous ones is Hokkien Mee.
you can find it at some of the coffee shops here.
While not very commonly served in Sarawak, one can find
KL, Penang and Singapore versions of the noodle dish sold at
Teochew Moey (Teochew) eating outlets here. However, there are some outlets here that
Sarawak’s Teochew community originated from the Shantou serve a more localised version of the dish, whereby the noodle is
seaport in Guangdong Province of China. They sailed to Kuching drenched in a dark soy-based broth.
on invitation from Rajah Brooke to start an agricultural settlement
here. The Teochew of Sarawak are primarily business owners that
operate grocery stores and other small businesses. Cantonese Mee (Cantonese)
Like the Henghua, the Cantonese is also among the smallest
The Teochew people of Sarawak are known for a number of dialect groups in Sarawak. Their arrival in Sarawak happened
delicious dishes such as kway chap (rice sheets in a herbal pork rather early, primarily during the opium war in China. Business-
soup) and Pak Lo Ngap (braised five spice duck). But a large part wise, they mostly owned grocery stores, sold shoes, repaired
of their daily meal is Teochew Moey, which is simply plain rice watches and became goldsmiths.
congee eaten with a variety of side dishes.
Culinary-wise, despite their small population here in Sarawak,
Depending on the time of the day the porridge is eaten, side their dishes are among the most highly sought after. One of the
dishes can be just salted egg and pickled vegetables in the most popular Cantonese dishes in Sarawak is none other than
morning, or heavier ones like braised duck or pork, fried fish in Cantonese Mee.
salted black beans, fermented bean curd and pork mince with
bean paste for lunch and dinner. Perfect on cold days! Sarawak’s version of Cantonese Mee is unique in that crispy deep
fried egg noodles like the ones for kolo mee is used. Those who
do not like crispy noodles can also opt for kway teow, yellow
Hainanese Chicken Rice (Hainanese) noodles or rice vermicelli. The noodle is drenched in sizzling hot
The Hainanese arrived at the shores of Sarawak later than the egg sauce with meat slices, some seafood and mustard greens.
other Chinese dialects. During this time, businesses were mostly Perfect for those who want something simple, delicious and not
already run by other ethnics. Therefore, the Hainanese had to too heavily seasoned.
settle with becoming helpers of officers during the Colonial rule
and doing electrical works. There you have it – some of the most iconic Chinese dishes of
the different dialect groups you can find here in Sarawak. If you
Over time, they became very good at making coffee, kaya and haven’t tried any of them, make a point to do so on your next
the Chinese style curry many Sarawakians grew to love. And they trip to the Land of the Hornbills!
14 • Sarawak FOOD
Busak Luduh Kerabu Mangga Abbeng Arur Layun Bua’ Petar Pa’ Mada
(Mango Salad With Torch Ginger) (Minced Fish from Arur Layan) (Minced Chopped Petai Beans & Anchovies)
A perfectly balanced dish comprising thinly Essentially a deboned fish prepared in Even if you’re not a fan of Stink Beans,
sliced young mangoes, green chillies and traditional Kelabit style, this version of which we call Petai here, this dish is a
Bunga Kantan drizzled with lime juice. Abbeng is mixed with Bunga Kantan must try! Finely minced and fried with
(Torch Ginger) to give it a more zesty small anchovies, it’s amazing when
flavour. served on hot rice.
Sarawak Cultural Village, dazzles with a new authentic ethnic set that will
surely excite your taste buds. Experience the meal of the Highlanders with
High- a set of ethnic dishes available only at Sarawak Cultural Village’s Budaya
Restaurant.
lander Food of the Highlanders is unique in the sense that no salt was used in any of
Set the dishes, unless it’s their very own Highland salt. These dishes are replicas of
age-old recipes from villages in the Kelabit Highlands, located at the farthest
reaches of the Baram and Limbang rivers. As tribute, the names of the villages
are included in the name of the dishes.
End your Highlander meal with a set Wrapped in Daun Isip (Isip leaves), Bario
of Urum Ubi Palungan, which is fried Rice is one of the finest rice produced
tapioca that is crispy on the outside and in Sarawak. Cultivated traditionally, it is
Beef is salted and smoked over an open fluffy on the inside, served with Gula high in thiamine and low in fat, not to
fire before being boiled and pounded Apong (local palm sugar). mention delicious!
into strips. The meat is then cooked with
Bario cinnamon and fried with Tepus (Red
Gingerwort) and Biji Kucai (Chive Seeds), The Highlander set also contains other signature dishes such as Abeng
giving it a mild ginger taste along with Arur Layan, Arur Dalan, Tempoyak Sarawak, Puluh Semaaq and Young
the smokiness. Cucumber Leaf Soup as well as a special Calamansi Lime drink.