Hindawi

Journal of Environmental and Public Health

Volume 2022, Article ID 5178301, 11 pages
https://doi.org/10.1155/2022/5178301

Research Article
Global Value Chain Governance of the Apparel Design
Industry under the Background of Global Sustainable
Economic Development

Dan Yu and Peipei Zhao

Department of Fashion Design, Academy of Fine Arts and Design, Changchun Humanities and Sciences College,
Changchun 130000, China

Correspondence should be addressed to Dan Yu; ydan@zcmu.edu.cn

Received 17 June 2022; Revised 2 August 2022; Accepted 13 August 2022; Published 2 December 2022

Academic Editor: Aboul Ella Hassanien

Copyright © 2022 Dan Yu and Peipei Zhao. Tis is an open access article distributed under the Creative Commons Attribution
License, which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is
properly cited.
In recent years, there has been a signifcant rise in the importance of sustainability in business and personal life. Unsustainable
techniques are used throughout the whole lifecycle of the clothing and textiles business, from the time it is made to the time it is
recycled or thrown away. Te garment sector and its customers must be ready for a more sustainable future as the government,
corporations, and society turn their focus toward it. An investigation of how the apparel design industry (ADI) might adhere to
the global value chain (GVC) in light of sustainable economic development (SED) and their relevance in China. Tis study
analyzes the ADI moves up from one functional level to another within the global apparel value chain and what factors allow them
to break into the global market. Researchers demonstrate that the existing sustainable operations in the AD industry are a long way
from attaining the aims of economic development going hand in hand with the goals of economic sustainability by studying both
the relevant literature and the industrial practices in the sector. Tis study relies on various case studies, proposes the “apparel
global value chain” of governance-based sustainability, explores the implications of these models for areas with very varied degrees
of development and diverse AD structures, and considers their implications for regional development and sustainability. As a
development of a better knowledge of how fashion design contributes to economic sustainability. Te study aims to examine how
ADI uses economically sustainable techniques and how designers contribute to the creation of environmentally friendly goods.

1. Introduction globalized, and privatized economy over the past few de-
cades has generated dramatic economic growth, with an
Sustainable economic development (SED) is an excellent average annual GDP growth rate of 9.8 percent and its
illustration of the new goals of economic, social, and en- exports increasing by 10–20 percent annually. Tis has
vironmental development. Tese new goals include things resulted in a dramatic increase in China’s overall standard of
like eradicating poverty, fostering economic growth, and living. However, hiding beneath China’s recent economic
protecting the environment, among other things. SED needs success is the country’s huge dependency on low-wage labor
participation from all global actors including governments, that is untrained or semiskilled, as well as its heavy use of
businesses, nonprofts, and individuals in order to achieve home advantages to its beneft. Tis low-wage export-ori-
their objectives are stated by Jia et al. [1]. An export-oriented ented expansion has been illustrated by the garment sector,
strategy of industrialization and China’s membership in which has been responsible for a signifcant portion of
global value chains (GVCs) and global production networks China’s economic growth as well as the creation of new jobs.
(GPNs) have contributed, at least in part, to the phenomenal When compared to supply chains in other industries, the
economic development that China has seen in recent de- fashion supply chain is notable for its labor-intensive
cades. China’s gradual transition towards a marketized, manufacturing, lengthy value chain, and relatively high level
2 Journal of Environmental and Public Health

of environmental pollution. Te encouraging growth of 180

China’s export-oriented apparel frms can be attributed, in 160
large part, to the following factors: (1) the fexible business
140
environment, which includes cheap peasant workers who
migrate from the western and central regions to coastal 120
China, and China’s other low-cost factor inputs, land 100

Value
electricity, and raw materials; (2) lax inspection on import 80
materials and export products in customs; (3) halfhearted
implementation of environmental and labor regulations; and 60
(4) preferential Taiwanese trade agreements. According to 40
Gazzola et al. [2] mentioned that the fashion supply chain is 20
part of the global value chain that is associated with the
0
textile and apparel industry. Figure 1 depicts the sustainable
growth in each country. Although it is the second biggest

China

Bangladesh

Vietnam

India

Indonesia

Cambodia
Turkey
exporter of garments, Bangladesh has yet to establish itself as
a leading textile production and exporting nation. China
continues to dominate the global textile market, followed by
the EU, India, Turkey, Vietnam, and Hong Kong, respec- Figure 1: Sustainable growth in each country.
tively. In order for Bangladesh to achieve long-term success
in the clothing sector, it is necessary for the country to
features that defne this industry also imply that it is very
expand its textile production capabilities. Tis will ensure
competitive. As a result, many suppliers have little leverage,
that the country’s clothing exports are no longer reliant on
and it might be difcult to ensure that longer-term devel-
foreign textile imports.
opment gains will be realized. Tis research examines how
Te global production system capitalizes on the relatively
the ADI climbs through the global clothing value chain from
cheap cost of labor in emerging nations from both an
one functional level to the next, and what criteria enable
economic and a social point of view. Figure 2 indicates the
them to break into the global market. Te “apparel global
principles of achieving sustainability. Te manufacturing of
value chain” of governance-based sustainability is proposed,
garments is one of the engineering processes with the highest
and the consequences of these models for regions with
risk. Te wet processing sector in particular generates a
widely varying degrees of development and widely varying
signifcant quantity of efuents, which signifcantly con-
AD structures are explored and considered in this paper,
tribute to the pollution of our water base. Terefore, in order
which is based on several case studies.
to achieve sustainable growth in the textile industries, it is
necessary to take into account the industries’ potentially
harmful efects on the surrounding environment and to put 1.1. Contributions of this Research
in place appropriate mitigation strategies. Tese four
principles should be adopted by the industry if it is to have (i) For the evaluated apparel global value chain, the
any hope of achieving sustainable development. However, apparel industry has a special position in the sus-
there are fees associated with accomplishing all of these tainable economy. Te country’s most signifcant
goals. When it comes to business, adhering to sustainable industry is this one, which makes up the bulk of
ideals cannot come at the expense of competitiveness. Tat is exports overall and has had tremendous growth
the balance that the sector has to fgure out in order to adopt over the last 20 years.
sustainable practices in a gradual manner so that the extra (ii) Te economy has a critical role in both the process
expenses connected with becoming sustainable do not in- of generating employment and the transfer of funds
fuence the competitiveness of the company. to those who are less fortunate.
Major goals for economic growth in low-income
(iii) Establishing a cost-cutting strategy and a labor
countries (LICs) continue to be structural change and export
productivity cell to conduct a range of research in
diversifcation away from basic commodities and towards
this feld, as well as other supporting policies im-
items with greater value-added LICs. Te apparel industry
portant to the growth, development, and survival of
has historically been a gateway for LICs to diversify their
the apparel industry in the many countries under
exports, and it is generally regarded as the frst step for
consideration SED.
developing countries that are beginning the process of ex-
port-oriented industrialization. Historically, the apparel Tese may be helpful in addressing the issues, and value
industry has been a gateway to export diversifcation. As a addition will enable the garment industry’s contribution to
result of its low entry hurdles (low fxed costs and relatively the socioeconomic development of nations to be strength-
basic technology), the apparel industry was able to hire vast ened and sustained through time.
numbers of unskilled employees are reported by Nguyen Te additional detail of this survey is as follows: Section 2
et al. [3] and Moretto et al. [4]. In turn, this opened up briefy presents the global organization of the apparel design
prospects for upgrading into activities with better value- industry. Section 3 explains the apparel global value chain. In
added both inside and across industries. However, the Section 4, the economic improvements in the global apparel
Journal of Environmental and Public Health 3

Resource
Optimization

Social Inclusion

Principles of
Achieve
Sustainability
Sustainable
Manufacturing

Environmental
Hazard Mitigation

Figure 2: Principles of achieving sustainability.

value chain are mentioned. Section 5 discusses the apparel and pricing are monitored throughout time. It is not un-
global value chain contextualization and sustainable de- common for businesses to have certifcations from a
velopment. Section 6 discusses the relationship between number of diferent companies are indicated by Pedersen
apparel value chains and SEDs. Section 7 described the et al. [10].
discussion and analysis of the country cases. Section 8 ex-
plains the conclusion of this survey. 3. Apparel Global Value Chain
2. Global Organization of the Apparel One of the most important parts of the apparel value chain is
Design Industry the resource of organic and inorganic fber natural resources;
the manufacturing of garment elements; the output net-
Te apparel industry is the perfect illustration of a buyer- works founded by barter proxies; the advertising systems at
driven commodity chain, since it is characterized by power the retail stage; and the availability of raw materials of
imbalances between the worldwide consumers of fnished apparel global value chain as shown in Figure 3. Tere has
fashion goods and the providers of those products are been consistent movement throughout the course of history
asserted by Gardas et al. [5]. Te most economical products in the locations of the most important nations and areas for
may be found in these companies. Lead businesses often the export of garments, as well as the primary end markets
have their headquarters in the main markets, which include for those exports (McEachern et al. [11] and Choi and Luo
Europe, Japan, and the United States. Tese frms include [12]).
merchants, as well as owners of brand names, are suggested Te worldwide value chain in the apparel sector is a great
by Nayak et al. [6]. In the apparel value chain, these or- illustration of a “buyer-driven” business model. A buyer-
ganizations are frequently responsible for the most critical driven global garment value chain generates profts via a
activities such as industrial design, advertising, and sales, variety of high research, development, selling, advertising,
and they subcontract the manufacturing process to a global and fnancial sectors, as opposed to manufacturer chains
wide range of suppliers (Goworek et al. [7]). Table 1 indicates wherein revenues are earned through increasing size,
the employment in the apparel industry in a few countries. quantity, and technical advances. In this way, they may serve
Te value chain of the garment industry, like the value as strategic intermediaries between manufacturers, distrib-
chains of other global businesses, depends on international utors, and retailers throughout the world and the product
standards to coordinate the operations of its suppliers. By niches they serve in their primary markets at residence
the turn of the century, the majority of leading companies (Khan et al. [13]). Anner [14] estimated that companies
had already developed their own internal standards and efectively control how fundamental value-adding activities
codes of conduct based on factors such as cost, quality, are distributed along the value chain.
punctuality, and corporate responsibility in terms of labor It is possible to identify six key value-adding activities,
and environmental norms (Hur and Cassidy [8] and Mody which will help you understand how this division of labor
and Bhoosreddy [9]). Regular measurements are taken to happens and how attempts to improve the workforce may
assess the functioning of the factory, and delivery, quality, alter the role emerging nations play in the global value chain
4 Journal of Environmental and Public Health

Table 1: Employment in the apparel industry in a few countries.

Regions Employment Te ratio of the overall manufacturing employment (percent) Year
Nicaragua 80,510 27 2006
Cambodia 2,52,000 39 2005
Turkey 5,01,000 15 2009
China 19,100,000 20 2004
India 463,320 7 2001
Sri Lanka 2,71,000 21 2008
Madagascar 88,000 44 2001
Mauritius 76,964 65 2001
Morocco 1,76,895 19 2002
Mexico 4,610,000 11 2005
Pakistan 2,310,000 44 2001
Bangladesh 2,810,000 — 2008
Romania 403,390 24 2002
Guatemala 104,465 22 2005
Lesotho 40,363 — 2005

Oil and Natural gas Cotton, Wool, Silk, etc.

Petrochemicals Yarn (Spinning)

COMPONENT

COMPANIES
NETWORKS

TEXTILE
Fabric (weaving, knitting,
Synthetic Fibers
finishing)

MANUFACTURERS
PRODUCTION

North America
NETWORKS

U.S. Garment Factories

Domestic and Mexican/

APPAREL
Domestic and Overseas Asian Garment (designing, cutting,
Asia

Caribbean Basin
Subcontractors Contractors sewing, buttonholing,
Subcontractors
ironing)
NETWORKS

All Retail
EXPORT

Outlets
Brand-Named Apparel
Trading Companies Overseas Buying Offices
Companies
All Retail
Outlets
MARKETING
NETWORKS

Off-Price, Factory Outlet,

Discount Chains Oil and Natural gas Mass Merchandise Chains Department Stores
Mail Order, Others

Figure 3: Apparel global value chain.

(Frederick et al. [15] and Staritz and Whitfeld [16]). (1) R & to experience the greatest benefts as a result of workforce
D, (2) design, (3) purchasing, (4) logistics (buying and development are reported by Prabowo et al. [17].
distribution), (5) marketing and branding, and (6) services Te most important value-adding stages include the
are the six pillars of an organization’s apparel global value following:
chain’s curve of value-added stages are seen in Figure 4. (i) R & D: companies that participate in research and
Because the most signifcant value-adding stages are in- development (R & D) as well as actions aimed at
tangible services that take place before and after the process enhancing the physical product or process, as well
of producing apparel, this model requires us to signifcantly as market and consumer research, falls within the
expand our ideas regarding the locations that are most likely purview of this value-adding function.
Journal of Environmental and Public Health 5

customers, or workers, generally as a strategy to

diferentiate itself from rivals in the market (for
example, delivering consultancy services about
R&D Services
international clothing enterprises or fashion
Value Added

trends) (Whitfeld et al. [18]).

Design Marketing
4. Economic Improvements in the Global
Purchasing Distribution
Apparel Value Chain
Production
Te apparel industry’s purchaser responsibilities and ex-
pectations updating prospects operational (crossing to
Pre- Production Post- higher-value functions), consumer (producing higher-value
Production Tangible Production items), procedural (incorporating sophisticated technologies
Intangible Activities Intangible
into production), and multisectoral (moving across com-
Figure 4: Apparel global value chain’s curve of value-added stages. panies) (Garg [19] and Casadei and Iammarino [20]).
Te following descriptions of the four primary phases of
economic upgrading for the apparel industry are seen in
(ii) Design: at this point in the value chain, a variety of Figure 5. Te functional upgrading that occurs in the gar-
persons and businesses are involved in providing ment value chain is as follows:
services related to the esthetic design of various
goods and components. Activities related to design (i) Assembly/cut make and trim (CMT) entry into the
and style are used to draw attention, enhance chain: in this step of the clothing business, sewing
product performance, reduce manufacturing costs, factories assemble foreign inputs. Te manufacturer
and provide the product with a signifcant com- cuts, sews, trims, and ships the fnished garment.
petitive edge in the market that is being targeted. Te customer buys fabric and gives it to the maker
with production specs. Te contract manufacturer
(iii) Purchasing: this stage relates to the procedures
has many clients and takes orders. “Export-Pro-
involved in acquiring and delivering apparel items,
cessing Zones (EPZs),” special in economic zones,
which are known as inbound processes. It en-
exports to the buyer’s nation are taxed less.
compasses not only the actual act of moving things,
but also the management of, or provision of, the (ii) “Free on board (FOB)/full package/original equip-
technology and equipment necessary for supply ment manufacturing (OEM)”: the garment maker
chain coordination. Coordination in logistics may handles CMT, fnishing, and distribution. Te
take place either inside a country or outside. company must be able to procure and fnance raw
materials, component items, and trim. According to
(iv) Production: fabric may be woven or knitted, and
Uramoto et al. [21] the circumstances, the buyer
then either the fabric or the garment can be cut and
specifes textile businesses from which the apparel
sewn straight from the yarn. Te cut-and-sew
maker must acquire materials. In other cases, the
categorization refers to a wide variety of businesses
company must build its own network of suppliers.
that produce whole lines of ready-to-wear as well as
Te company frequently handles downstream lo-
bespoke clothing. Te term “apparel manufacturer”
gistics, including packing for retail distribution and
may refer to either an independent contractor who
transporting the fnished product to the customer at
carries out cutting or sewing operations on mate-
an agreed fee (also referred to as FOB). Te cus-
rials held by third parties or a jobber or tailor who
tomer gives the FOB contractor product specs and
creates customized clothing for particular cus-
designs but isn’t engaged in pattern creation. Full-
tomers. Companies have the option of acquiring
service enterprises might be single-producing op-
textiles from another organization or producing the
erations or global suppliers with many production
textile components themselves.
sites and product lines. Full package enterprises
(v) Distribution: there are a large number of companies might source foreign or domestic fabrics. Tis
that help supply and sell the clothing once it has method may generate major backward links to the
been manufactured. Tese include merchants and textile industry, and many nations start textile
agents as well as transportation and logistics production by making textiles for export are
companies. claimed by Ahmed et al. [22] and Rana et al. [23].
(vi) Marketing: afterward, the apparel is disseminated (iii) “Original design manufacturing (ODM)/full pack-
and marketed via a network of distributors, bro- age with design”: it combines design and produc-
kers, and other companies that are responsible for tion. Full-service garment suppliers design,
value-added operations that are not directly related purchase fabric, cut, sew, trim, package, and dis-
to the manufacturing system. tribute completed garments (Wilson [24]). Typi-
(vii) Services: this encompasses any form of activity that cally, the supplier organizes and coordinates
a company or industry delivers to its suppliers, product design, sample approval, material selection,
6 Journal of Environmental and Public Health

factors of cost, quality, and dependability, additional factors

are playing an increasingly important role in the decision-
OEM / FOB
Original Equipment
making process regarding sourcing are stated by Corvellec
Manufacturing / and Stal [29]. First and foremost, there has been a rise in the
Free On Board need for fexibility, but at the same time, lead times have
decreased (Jung et al. [30] and Wang et al. [31]). Tis calls for
more efcient supply chains and manufacturing processes.
In addition, there is a necessity for nonmanufacturing
Primary Phases competencies, such as the sourcing of inputs and the cre-
of ODM ation of products. Shahabaz et al. [32] and Jha and Kumar
CMT
Economic Original Design [33] mentioned the administration of inventories and stock
Cut Make Trim
Upgrading for Manufacturing
Apparel Industry
holding, the logistics of shipping, and the fnancing of
operations. Lastly, there is the need to comply with estab-
lished labor and environmental norms, which has evolved
into a baseline requirement for both entry into and con-
tinued participation in value chains as mentioned by Gomes
OBM et al. [34]. A consolidation of the supply base has occurred as
Original Brand
Manufacturing
a result of the sourcing strategies of buyers, which has
resulted in a reduction in the number of supplier nations and
enterprises within those countries. Conforming to Ahmad
and Kamruzzaman [35] the competent suppliers who are
Figure 5: Economic upgrading for the apparel industry. confronted with high expectations on price, quality, and lead
time, as well as high and shifting volume needs, and requests
buying, manufacturing, and delivery to the ultimate for wider nonmanufacturing competencies, have also sought
client. Private-label retail companies often have full to position themselves as coordinators of networks with a
packaging designs (Mohajeri et al. [25]). worldwide supply base. As a result, big manufacturers,
particularly those based in Hong Kong, South Korea, and
(iv) “Original brand manufacturing (OBM)”: this
Taiwan, have transitioned into the role of middlemen, or-
business strategy adds or replaces design and pro-
ganizing dispersed international production and sourcing
duction with product branding; upgrading entails
networks. Tey have become a major source of foreign direct
selling own-brand items. Many developing nations
investment (FDI) in the clothing export sectors of LICs and
engage OBM to establish brands for home or nearby
give a chance for new supplier nations to join apparel global
markets.
value chains despite the fact that they have poor capabilities.
In accordance with Donmezer et al. [36], there is a triangular
5. Apparel Global Value Chain manufacturing network, and the barriers to the entrance are
Contextualization and much lower, but upgrading prospects are also restricted
Sustainable Development since the intermediaries have infuence over the most im-
portant choices and tasks. More lately, there have also been
In the garment industry, like in many other industries, advancements that enhance the continued extension of the
manufacturing and commerce are organized into GVCs, supply base (Choi and Shi [37] and Alam and Dhamija [38]).
which include the manufacture of components and the Tis is something that has been happening more often as of
assembly of those components into fnished goods via in- late. As a result of cost rises in key supplier nations in Asia,
terfrm networks operating on a worldwide scale. According buyers have been looking for new options in order to di-
to Uduwela et al. [26] stated that the apparel business is versify their exposure to risk. Figure 6 illustrates the sus-
characterized by decentralized, internationally scattered tainable development of the apparel industry. Bangladesh’s
manufacturing networks. Tese networks are controlled by clothing exports are second behind China with a 6.5%
lead corporations that oversee “value-added” operations market share. Te graphic shows that the clothing business
(such as design and branding), but they often outsource has signifcant development potential since China’s defcit is
production to a worldwide network of suppliers (Athukorala large. Te textile sector must develop to fulfll yarn and fabric
and Ekanayake [27] and Roy et al. [28]). Although buyers are demand.
not directly engaged in the manufacturing process, they As determined by Jin et al. [39] a direct consequence of
exert a large amount of infuence over producers by pro- this, buyers or key suppliers have been screening new
viding comprehensive product and production require- supplier countries in the hopes of fnding ones that can at
ments. Because of this, the techniques that purchasers use, least partially replace or lessen their dependency on Ban-
particularly their policies towards global sourcing, signif- gladesh, China, and other Asian nations. Since tarifs (and
cantly impact the patterns of production and trade. Given consequently preferential market access) continue to play an
the labor-intensive nature of garment manufacture, choices important part in global apparel trade, preferential market
about sourcing are driven by diferences in the cost of labor access has continued to play an important role in the search
in various locations. However, in addition to the traditional for new sourcing locations are claimed by Bizuneh and
Journal of Environmental and Public Health 7

Vietnam strategies of upgrading in order to maintain and strengthen

Hong Kong their positions in value chains in order to be successful. Te
term “upgrading” refers to the process of shifting toward
Pakistan
activities that have a greater value in order to maximize the
Chinese Taipei
advantages derived from participation in global production
Republic of Korea are determined by Mark–Herbert and Ng [49]. In order to
Turkey accomplish this improvement, the following procedures
USA have been presented as possible solutions:
India
(i) Upgrade of processes (the improvement of tech-
EU (28 Countries) nologies or industrial systems in order to achieve
China efciency and fexibility)
0 20 40 60 80 100 120 (ii) Product upgrading (the transition to goods that are
Value more complicated and sophisticated)
Figure 6: Sustainable development of the apparel industry. (iii) Modernization of the supply chain (including the
establishment of domestic links, most particularly
reverse linkages to input industries)
Tadesse [40] and Dunhaupt et al. [41]. Tis has been the case (iv) Upgrade of the end market (diversifying to new
in the apparel industry as it has been in the past. In addition consumers or expanding into new geographic and
to bilateral and multilateral trade agreements, wealthy na- product markets)
tions have also participated in the generalized system of
(v) Functional upgrading refers to extending the variety
performance (GSP), which has granted tarif preferences to
of functions that can be performed or shifting the
more than one hundred developing countries. However, the
balance of activities to include more high-value
usual GSP for both the EU and the US only provides a little
activities
reduction in tarifs for items related to the garment industry
Prasad et al. [42] and Li [43]. However, some nations have Functional upgrading is important for garment providers,
successfully secured preferential access for the world’s least including a CMT manufacturer that sews, cuts, and trims
developed countries (LDCs), such as the Everything But clothing (buttons, zippers). Buyer supplies product specs and
Arms (EBA) agreement that the European Union has in fabric. Instead of a product price, the manufacturer receives a
place. Other relevant accords include the EU’s “Economic processing charge. A full-package manufacturer FOB ofers
Partnership Agreements (EPAs)” and the US’s “Africa textile inputs, manufacturing, fnishing, and packaging. Te
Growth and Opportunity Act (AGOA).” buyer selects textile suppliers. ODMs participate in product
As a result, LDCs in sub-Saharan Africa have been design and development, including sample approval and
subjected to zero tarifs in European Union markets for a material selection, purchasing, and manufacturing are claimed
considerable amount of time; nevertheless, this has been by Vishwakarma et al. [50]. OBMs create and promote their
accompanied by double transformation rules of origin own brands. Sustainable development requires upgrading to
(ROO). As specifed by Bernardi et al. [44] and Abdeen et al. stay competitive in GVCs and ensure local advantages, such as
[44]. Single transformation became the standard for EBA learning, technology transfer, value addition, and employment.
ROOs in 2011. Te newly agreed interim EPAs include single Low costs typically mean low salaries, bad working conditions,
transformation requirements as an additional requirement. and inadequate social and environmental norms. As believed
On the other hand, the EU grants preferential market access by Bang et al. [51], social and environmental upgrading is
to all LDCs, which means that countries like Bangladesh and connected with economic upgrading. Social upgrading im-
Cambodia may also export duty-free goods to the EU are proves employees’ working conditions and rights, enhancing
stated by Jacobs and Karpova [45]. Only in 2001 did AGOA their employment. Skill upgrading comprises capturing
become fully operational, and it was only recently extended learning and transferring skills to local labor. Environmental
until the year 2025. It provides duty-free access for garment upgrading involves safeguarding ecosystem assets (clean water
exports under specifc criteria, with less-developed nations and energy) and natural resources to improve production and
sufering single transformation ROOs in accordance with infrastructure’s environmental performance. A comprehensive
the third-country fabric (TCF) exemption indicated by upgrading plan aims to promote inclusion, good jobs, reduced
Akter et al. [46]. Te fact that AGOA grants duty-free access environmental consequences, and economic advantages and
to the US market in clothing to only SSA and regional competitiveness.
supplier nations in Central America is one of the program’s
most signifcant benefts specifed by Salihu et al. [47] and 6. Relationship between Apparel Value Chains
Wang et al. [48]. LDCs in Asia are subject to tarifs. Te value and the SEDs
of AGOA is increased for the SSA nations because they now
have a competitive advantage over the Asian suppliers. Tis Te apparel industry has undergone signifcant economic
is not the case with the preferential market access ofered by upgrading processes (in terms of end market, process,
the EU. Because of the severe rivalry that exists in the global product, and function). A value chain is a collection of
textile and apparel industry, suppliers must implement operations that a corporation operating in a certain sector
8 Journal of Environmental and Public Health

does in order to ofer a useful product or service to the full-package skills promote tight partnerships with global
market. Tere are, concurrently, localization processes in merchants that are eager to help upgrade Turkey’s design
terms of local linkages that go beyond the experience of the and brand services. Sri Lanka’s government and corporate
other main apparel exporting countries in sub-Saharan sector established a 5-year strategy to enhance the industry,
Africa (SSA) determined by Patti and Acierno [52]. Tis is focusing on leveraging their tight relationships with global
true once more with the exception that these processes are customers to build design and brand competencies. Sri
just starting, and there are no conclusive outcomes that can Lankan enterprises have ofces in important locations to
be observed just yet. In terms of social upgrading, there are cooperate with product development and design teams.
favorable results from the standpoint of quantity, with less
progress being achieved in terms of quality. Signifcant 8. Conclusion
actions are now being taken, notably in the areas designated
as industrial parks, with regard to the preservation of the One of the businesses that have seen the greatest degree of
natural environment. globalization in our day is the clothing industry. It is re-
sponsible for the employment of millions of people all
. Discussion and Analysis of the Country Cases around the globe, particularly in nations with low incomes.
Te ability of developing nations to join the value chain may
Te accessibility to end markets, the availability of inex- be attributed to a number of crucial factors, including the
pensive labor in abundance, and advantageous trade availability of low-cost labor, advantageous trade agree-
agreements are the key prerequisites for successful entrance. ments, and closeness to end markets. Workforce develop-
Although foreign direct investment is often helpful in de- ment programs receive little attention, despite the fact that
veloping assembly operations, 4 of the 5 nations surveyed the companies that dominate this value chain have strict
joined the sector primarily due to advantageous trade requirements for their suppliers. Supervisors who can’t
agreements. Prior to Lesotho and Nicaragua benefting from instruct manufacturing workers often do so. Vocational
the African Development and Opportunity Act (AGOA) and schools don’t provide courses that meet industry demands.
CAFTA-DR TPL accords, respectively, Lesotho and Sri Many frms feel expatriates are more efcient than native
Lanka profted greatly from preferential trade deals with the personnel. Te infuence of global purchasers to improve
EU and the United States, which aided their early admission working conditions and moves in more mature suppliers to
and growth. professionalize the clothing workforce imply that developing
Other aspects, meanwhile, start to matter as the chain nations are coming closer to adopting more efective and
advances into more advanced phases. Tey consist of the meaningful workforce development procedures. Tis is
following: because global buyers are working to improve working
(i) Domestic or regional textile industry facilitates conditions. It devised a comprehensive industrial strategy
upgrading from assembly (CMT) to full-package with the goal of promoting industrialization through fos-
(OEM) garment manufacture. Bangladesh’s emerg- tering the growth of the manufacturing industry, with textile
ing textile sector helped it transition from assembly and garment production being among the highest priority
to full-package supply. Turkey’s textile sector was sectors. It has utilized governmental levers to give assistance
robust when the clothing industry was founded, to exporters without opening up the domestic market to
enabling it to jump into full-package supply. Sri international goods and FDI enterprises, allowing it instead
Lanka used regional textile possibilities and back- to be dominated by indigenous businesses. Te government
ward links with India and Bangladesh to upgrade. has implemented a number of buyer attraction strategies in
addition to actively seeking foreign direct investment from
(ii) Lead businesses’ nationality and business methods
key garment manufacturing nations. One of the most im-
determine a country’s upgrading trajectory. Lesotho
portant tools for luring in new investment is the creation of
and Nicaragua’s top enterprises are foreign-owned
serviced industrial parks that provide specifc advantages to
and part of big Asian supplier networks. Tese
businesses who export their products. It has supported
corporations adopt business strategies in which
integration between the production of textiles and clothing
high-value upstream and downstream operations are
as well as the cotton industry in order to achieve the goal of
performed in their Asian headquarters, with limited
creating a local value chain that is integrated. In addition to
links or technological spillovers to local suppliers.
facilitating knowledge linkages between the industry and
Neither nation has upgraded much. Locally held
higher education institutions, it has created sector-focused
enterprises play major roles in Bangladesh, Sri
institutions with a primary focus on building technological
Lanka, and Turkey, with direct links to global cus-
capability and capabilities in terms of skills, with managers,
tomers who have upgraded local operations.
technicians, and workers as its primary targets. Tis research
Te public and private sectors must commit to industry will be of signifcant value for specialists in choosing an
growth to upgrade to ODM and OBM. Turkey is the only acceptable and rigorous technique for sustainability evalu-
nation in our sample to make large breakthroughs in ODM ation in the textile sector. In a similar vein, due to the one-of-
and OBM. Strong industry groups and government orga- a-kind nature of the textile and apparel industry, it is es-
nizations collaborated to boost Turkey’s fashion and design sential for the researcher to carry out research that is both
competitiveness. Turkey’s major integrated enterprises’ more universal and comprehensive on the topic of
Journal of Environmental and Public Health 9

sustainability in this sector, and then use the fndings to outline [8] E. Hur and T. Cassidy, “Perceptions and attitudes towards
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