Garments Production Process:
The ready made garment Manufacturing processing depends on some steps and techniques.The clothing
creation running actions and methods included in the developing outfits for the huge of creation in
company time frame for company reasons is known as outfits developing technologies. Garments plants
are identified according to their item kinds are as follows: Garments Factory are classified with some dept.
1) Woven Garment Factory
2) Knit Garment Factory
3) Sweater Garments Factory
Garment Production Process:-
Stepwise garments manufacturing sequence on industrial basis is given below:
Design / Sketch
Pattern Design
Sample Making
Production Pattern
Grading
Marker Making
Spreading
Cutting
Sorting/Bundling
Sewing/Assembling
Inspection
Pressing/ Finishing
Final Inspection
Packing
Despatch
Operation of Garments Manufacturing are given below in details:
SL No. Operation Job Method
01
Design/Sketch
It is given by buyers to manufacturers containing
sketches including measurements of particular
styles
Manual/Computerized
02
Basic Block
Basic block is an individual component of garments
without any style of design (without Allowance,
Style, Design)
Manual/Computerized
03
Working
Pattern
When a pattern is made for a particular style with
net dimension regarding the basic block along with
allowance then it is called working pattern.
Manual/Computerized
04
Sample
Garments
To make a sample, this will be approved by buyer.
After making a sample, it is sent to buyer for
approval to rectify the faults
Manual
05
Approved
Sample
After rectify the faults, sample is again sent to
buyers. If it is ok then , then it is called approved
sample
Manual
06
Costing
Fabric Costing
Making Charged
Trimmings
Profit
Manual
07 Production
Pattern
Making allowance with net dimension for bulk
production
Manual/Computerized
08 Grading If the buyer requires different sizes, so should be
grade as S, M, L, XL, XXL
Manual/Computerized
09
Marker
Making
Marker is a thin paper which contains all the
components for different sizes for a particular style
of garments
Manual/Computerized
10 Fabric
Spreading
To spread the fabrics on table properly for cutting Manual/Computerized
11 Cutting To cut fabric according to marker dimension Manual/Computerized
12 Sorting &
Bundling
Sort out the fabric according to size and for each
size make in individual bundles
Manual
13 Sewing To assemble a full garments Manual
14
Ironing &
Finishing
After sewing we will get a complete garment which
is treated with steam ironing & also several finishing
processes are done for example extra loose thread
cutting
Manual
15 Inspection Should be approved as initial sample Manual
16 Packing Treated by Polyethylene bag Manual
17 Cartooning After packing, it should be placed In cartooning for
export
Manual
18 Despatching Ready for export Manual
Process Flowchart / Sequence of dying Lab
At first dyeing is performed in dyeing laboratory and then starting for bulk production. A lots of work is done in the
dyeing laboratory. In the dyeing lab, lab dip or sample is developed by the dyeing master. Lab dip plays an important
role in shade matching & this is an important task before bulk production.
Dyeing Lab
Process Sequence of Dyeing Lab:
Sample/Swatch/Panton no. / TCX no. / TPX no. from the buyer
Determination of samples possible color combination by the help
of Spectrophotometer or manual
Dispersion by autodoser
Trial dyeing of first recipe
Unload
Normal wash
Hot wash with detergent
Oven drying
Ironing
Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for approval)
If not ok
First correction takes from Spectrophotometer or manually
Dispersion by autodoser
Trial dyeing of first recipe
Unload
Normal wash
Hot wash with detergent
Oven drying
Ironing
Shade matching in light box ( If Ok then send to buyer for approval)
If not ok
Second correction takes from Spectrophotometer or manually
Dispersion by auto doser
Trial dyeing of first recipe
Unload
Normal wash
Hot wash with detergent
Oven drying
Ironing
Shade matching in light box
If ok
Send for buyers approval
Bulk production by considering the buyers approved sample as standard
Washing:
Washing process in which heavy or slight soiling is removed and transferred to the
water in the form of a solution or dispersion. Washing has the effect of cleaning
surfaces. The resulting effect is several physical/ chemical processes. Garment
washing is the best touch of a garment. Same type of garments can produce several
effects for several wash . To create wash look appearance, seems the new touch of
fashion.
Garment washing
Flow Chart of Washing:
Garments from store house
Count
Quality check
Batch
Washing
Hydro extractor
Drying
Quality check
Packing
Delivery
What is Lap Dip / object of Lap dip / process Sequence of Lab Dip :-
Lab Dip :- A lab dip is a swatch of fabric test dyed to hit a color standard. It is a process by which buyers
supplied swatch is matched with the varying dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help
of spectrophotometer. Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & this is an important task
before bulk production. In previous article of this author we have to learn on flow chart on dyeing lab.
Lab Dip
There are different matching systems followed in Labs. They are :
1. Tube light matching.
2. Sun light matching.
3. Ultra Violet matching.
4. Sodium light matching (show room).
Object of Lab Dip:
The main objectives in lab dip are as follows:
1. To calculate the recipe for sample dyeing.
2. To compare dyed sample with swatch by light Box or Spectrophotometer.
3. To calculate revise recipe for sample dyeing.
4. Finally approved Lab Dip (Grade: A, B, C & D)
Process Sequence of Lab Dip:
Lab dip plays an important role in dyeing process. Bulk dyeing process completely depends on the lab
dip development work. Lab dip is completely managed as the following sequence.
Lab Dip Requisition from buyer
Entry in the computer
First recipe is given by swatch/pantone number
First correction
Second correction
Grading of sample (A, B, C, D)
Yarn and knit sample send to buyer
Approved by buyer
Order for bulk production
Production card with approved sample and recipe send to production section.
Yarn Manufacturing Process / input & output in yarn manufacturing:-
Yarn & Yarn Manufacturing :- An assemblage of fibers that is twisted or laid together so as to form a
continuous strand that can be made into a textile fabric. So a yarn is a strand of natural or man made
fibres or filaments that have been twisted or grouped together for use in weaving ,knitting ,or other
methods of constructing textile fabrics. The type of yarn to be manufactured will depend on the fibres
selected;the texture, or hand,of the fabric to be made; and qualities such as warmth, resiliency, softness,
and durability required in the fabric's end uses.
Input - output and objects of individual section of yarn manufacturing (for cotton):
Input-output and objects of individual section of yarn manufacturing for Cotton is given below step by
step-------------------
01. Section: Mixing of raw cotton.
Input:
Bale of raw cotton.
Object:
1. To mix different staple fibres properly.
2. To minimize cost.
3. To produce better quality of yarn at last stage(ring).
Output:
Mixed raw cotton.
02. Section: Blow room
Input:
Mixed raw cotton.
Object:
1. To open the fibres.
2. To remove the trush.
3. To mix the fibers.
4. To make uniform lap sheet.
Output:
Lap.
03. Section: Carding.
Input:
Lap.
Object:
1. To remove fine trush.
2. To remove short fibres, neps, motes and foreign materials too.
3. To produce regular sliver.
Output:
Carded Sliver.
04. Section: Draw frame
Input:
Sliver.
Object:
1. To parallel the fibres.
2. To blend and mix the fibres.
3. To reduce weight per unit length.
4. To make uniform sliver.
Output:
Regular sliver.
05. Section: Lap former.
Input:
Regular sliver.
Object:
1. Forming the interfacing or lap, which is employed to feed the combing machine.
Output:
Lap.
06. Section: Combing.
Input:
Lap.
Object:
1. To remove short fibres.
2. To remove fine trash and dirt.
3. To parallel and straight the fibres.
4. To make uniform sliver.
Output:
Regular/combed sliver.
07. Section: Drawing (Finisher)
Input:
Regular/combed sliver.
Object:
1. To parallelize the fibres.
2. To make uniform sliver.
Output:
Uniform sliver/drawn sliver.
08. Section: Simplex.
Input:
Uniform sliver/drawn sliver.
Object:
1. Draft the material.
2. Insert a small amount of twist.
3. To make bobbin with roving of conical shape.
Output:
Roving.
09. Section: Ring.
Input:
Roving.
Object:
1. Drafting (attenuation).
2. Insertion of twist for strengthen the yarn.
3. To wind the yarn on to the ring tube/bobbin.
Output:
Yarn.
10. Section: Cone winding.
Input:
Yarn.
Object:
1. To transfer the yarn from ring cop/tube. To a large package(weight:2-2.5 lbs)
2. To remove the faults present in the yarn.
3. To get better quality of yarn.
Output:
Yarn on cone.
11. Section: Reeling.
Input:
Yarn on cone.
Object:
1. To clean the slubs.
2. To make hanks(1680) each.
Output:
Hanks.
12. Section: Bundling.
Input:
Hanks.
Object:
1. To make Bundle.
Output:
Bundle of 10 lbs.
13. Section: Baling.
Input:
Bundle.
Object:
1. To make a bale for marketing.
Output:
Bale of 400 lbs.
Conclusion:
Completing this process we can, get yarn and use it different work. This process only use for cotton
yarn(carded/combed) manufacturing.
Spinning:
The present participle of the verb 'to spin' used verbally, adjectivally, or as a noun, meaning process or
the processes used in the production of yarns or filaments.
The term may apply to:
(i) The drafting and, where appropriate, the insertion of twist in natural or staple man-made fibres to form
a yarn;
(ii) The extrusion of filaments by spiders or silkworms; or
(iii) The production of filaments from glass, metals, fibre-forming polymers or ceramics.
In the spinning of man-made filaments, fibre-forming substances in the plastic or molten state, or in
solution, are forced through the holes of a spinneret or die at a controlled rate. There are five general
methods of spinning man-made filaments i.e. dispersion spinning, dry spinning, melt spinning, reaction
spinning, and wet spinning, but combinations of these methods may be used.
In the bast and leaf-fiber industries, the terms 'wet spinning' and 'dry spinning' refer to the spinning of
fibres into yarns in the wet state and in the dry state respectively.
Open-end Spinning;
Break Spinning:
A spinning system in which sliver feed stock is highly drafted, ideally to individual fibre state, and thus
creates an open end or break in the fibre flow. The fibres are subsequently assembled on the end of a
rotating yarn and twisted in. Various techniques are available for collecting and twisting the fibres into a
yarn, the most noteworthy being rotor spinning and friction spinning.
Rotor Spinning:
A method of open-end spinning which uses a rotor (a high-speed centrifuge) to collect individual fibres
into a yarn is known as Rotor spinning. The fibers on entering a rapidly rotating rotor are distributed
around its circumference and temporarily held there by centrifugal force. The yarn is withdrawn from the
rotor wall and, because of the rotation, twist is generated.
Friction Spinning:
A method of open-end spinning which uses the external surface of two rotating rollers to collect and twist
individual fibres into a yarn is known as Friction spinning. At least one of the rollers is perforated so that
air can be drawn through its surface to facilitate fibre collection. The twisting occurs near the nip of the
rollers and, because of the relatively large difference between the yam and roller diameters, high yarn
rotational speeds are achieved by the friction between the roller surface and the yarns.
Air-jet Spinning:
A system of staple-fibre spinning which utilizes air to apply the twisting couple to the yarn during its
formation is known as Air-jet spinning. The air is blown through small holes arranged tangentially to the
yarn surface and this causes the yarn to rotate. The majority of systems using this technique produce
fasciated yarns, but by using two air jets operating in opposing twist directions it is possible to produce
yarns with more controlled properties but of more complex structure.
Centrifugal Spinning:
A method of man-made fiber production in which the molten or dissolved polymer is thrown centrifugally
in fibre form from the edge of a surface rotating at high speed. The term is also used to describe a
method of yarn formation involving a rotating cylindrical container, in which, the yarn passes down a
central guide tube and is then carried by centrifugal force to the inside of a rotating cylindrical container.
Dispersion Spinning:
A process in which the polymers that tend to an infusible, insoluble, and generally intractable character
(e.g., polytetrafluoroethylene) are dispersed as fine particles in a carrier such as sodium alginate or
sodium xanthate solutions is known as Dispersion spinning. These permit extrusion into fibers, after
which the dispersed polymer is caused to coalesce by a heating process, the carrier being removed either
by heating or by a dissolving process.
Draw-Spinning:
A process for spinning partially or highly oriented filaments in which the orientation is introduced prior to
the first forwarding or collecting device.
Dry Spinning (man-made fiber production):
The spinning process involving conversion of a dissolved polymer into filaments by extrusion and
evaporation of the solvent from the extrudate is known as Dry spinning.
Flash Spinning:
A modification of the accepted dry-spinning method in which a solution of a polymer is extruded at a
temperature well above the boiling point of the solvent such that on emerging from the spinneret
evaporation occurs so rapidly that the individual filaments are disrupted into a highly fibrillar form.
Flyer Spinning:
A spinning system in which yarn passes through a revolving flyer leg guide on to the package is known as
Flyer spinning. The yarn is wound-on by making the flyer and spinning package rotate at slightly different
speeds.
Melt Spinning (man-made fiber production):
The spinning process involving conversion of a molten polymer into filaments by extrusion and
subsequent cooling of the extrude is known as Melt spinning.
Reaction Spinning (man-made-fiber production):
A process in which polymerization is achieved during the extrusion of reactants through a spinneret
system.
Ring Spinning:
A spinning system in which twist is inserted in a yarn by using a revolving traveller is known as Ring
spinning. The yarn is wound on since the rotational speed of the package is greater than that of the
traveller.
Wet Spinning (man-made-fiber production):
The spinning process involving conversion of a dissolved polymer into filaments by extrusion into a
coagulating liquid is known as Wet spinning. The extrusion may be directly into the coagulating liquid or
through a small air-gap. In the latter case it may be known as dry-jet wet spinning or air-gap wet spinning.
Comparison Between rotor spinning & Ring Spinning
Rotor spinning process is fully different from carded or combed spinning. Rotor yarn is coarser than
carded or combed yarn. The count of rotor yarn is very low. Most of rotor yarn count is below 20s but
highest yarn count may be 40s . Coarser fabric is formed by rotor yarn. Most of the jeans or pant is made
by rotor yarn. Denim is fully depends on rotor yarn. The price of rotor yarn fabric is very low than combed
and carded yarn fabric.
Rotor Spinning
Ring Spinning
Comparison of Rotor Spun Yarn with the Ring Spun Yarn :
Breaking strength lower than ring spun Yarn
CV% of strength better than ring spun yarn
Elongation at break higher than ring spun yarn
Mass irregularity ( over short lengths) better than ring spun yarn
Imperfection index lower than ring spun yarn
Volume greater than ring spun yarn
Abrasion resistance higher than ring spun yarn
Stiffness higher than ring spun yarn
Handle harder
Power consumption less than ring spun yarn
Possible yarn counts rotor Ne 3 60 and Ring Ne 6 200
Energy consumption with productivity lower as compared to ring m/c.
Aesthetic properties
Surface rougher than ring yarn
Hariness lower than ring yarn
Lusture on the dull side
More capital costs & more maintanace cost as compared to ring machine. In modern rotor spinning line;
blow room and carding machine are use at a time. This technique is called Chute to feed card or Chute
to feed drawing. Rotor spinning number is less than combed or carded spinning. Low graded fiber spin in
rotor spinning
Weaving Resistance:
When warp and weft are interlaced in a fabric then they oppose to each other due to static electricity or
other factors. This opposition or resistance is called weaving resistance. Weaving resistance or its
counterpart, beat up force, is at the center of the relationship between pickspacing, yarn properties and
loom settings.
Factors Affecting Weaving Resistance:
In case of pick spacing requires a larger beat up force or, for a given spacing, a thicker weft requires a
larger force. It is suggested that a discontinuous relationship between pick spacing and weaving
resistance but that has not been confirmed by experiment - possibly because irregularities in yarn
properties would smooth the discontinuities. Loom settings are also known to influence the relationship.
Weaving resistance
There are some factors which affecting weaving resistance are given below:
The effect of warp tension
The effect of shed balance
The effect of shed timing
The effect of cloth fell distance and beat-up force
The effect of weave
The Effect of Warp Tension:
There seems to be general agreement that increasing warp tension increases weaving resistance.
Theoretically increased tension increases inter yarn forces and hence the effect of friction. . However, the
influence seems to be fairly small, both indicating a rise of about 10% in weaving resistance for
a doubling of the basic or average tensio
Textile wastage :-
Wastage
The action or process of losing or destroying something by using it carelessly or extravagantly. Waste
includes all items that people no longer have any use for, which they either intend to get rid of or have
already discarded.
In practical,
Input Output = Wastage
List of Wastage in Combing:
1. Noil: As per desired & quality of the end product to be produced.
2. Minilap Wastage: 0.25%
3. Sliver Wastage : 0.25%
4. Roller Wastage : 0.25%
5. Fly Dust: 0.10%
6. Sweeping: 0.20%
Wastages in Simplex/Speed Frame:
1. Sliver
2. Roller Waste/Bonda
3. Pneumaphil Waste
4. Roving Waste
5. Sweeping Waste
6. Clearer waste
7. Invisible Waste
Note: Above 0.50% of total amount of wastage is not acceptable
Wastages in Ring Frame:
1. Pnemaphil: 0.20-0.30%
2. Bonda: 0.20-0.30%
3. Roving waste: 0.10-0.20%
4. Thread waste: 0.10-below
5. Fly dust: 0.20%
6. Sweeping waste: 0.20%
Note: Total wastage is not more than 1%
Concept of Wastage:
Wastage Control(Previous Concept) = Wastage Production+Wastage Reduction
Wastage Management (Present concept) = Wastage Production+Wastage Utilization
Wastage Reduction Procedure/ Factors for Wastage Reductions:
1. Raw materials selection
2. Spindle speed
3. Setting(Rollers, R/T, Traveller cleaner etc)
4. Twist of yarn
5. Machinery condition
6. RH% and Temperature
7. Proper material handling
8. Adequate supervision
