This is a pattern to crochet

Aurora the

B93DB⑧e⑧
Doggo
an
⑧
ppg
$8
This pattern was written by

@ Chi a crafts
who hopes you ' Il all enjoy it

a lot !

@chiacrafts
 it
READ ME
& I'm the licence ! L
Few words before starting :3

oahtfuhsfasram
Hello
,
and thank you for being about to try this pattern !
It was made with lot of love and I hope it will be useful 9
,

This pattern was prepared by me ,

Chiara CR EMON aka @ Chi a crafts
,
and Was Kindly shared for free .

Please Do Not distribute this pattern yourself and credits to

, give
the out her when posting online !

the
:D
:*
It:;
'

Pattern by @ crafts
" "

Please insert Chi a

and use the hashtag # chin crafts patterns

@chiacrafts
Material used
★ 3.5 mm hook
★ 3.0 mm hook
★ 2.5 mm hook
★ 2.0 mm hook
★ Tapestry needle
★ Black safety eyes
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill is the best, otherwise some
cotton wool will do)
★ Dark brown yarn size 3-3.5
★ Light peach yarn size 3-3.5
★ Yellow-gold yarn size 2.5-3 (More it’s okay)
★ Light brown yarn size 3-3.5 (less it’s okay)
★ Cream color yarn size 2
★ White yarn size 2
★ Black yarn size 2.5 (less it’s okay)

Note: you can vary the size of the yarn, but you should keep
the proportions. The thread you use for the clothes (especially
for the top part) should be thinner than the one you use for
the body! This is because the doll is very small, so her arms
and body are very thin: cover it up with a shirt made with
thick yarn would be like dressing you up with a t-shirt as thick
as a winter coat :)
When I had only size 3 yarn, I used to split the thread to make
it thinner!

Cream told
Black
I
I Light peach
I
White
y

-
2.5site

sh±⇒→ /
→

it "

@chiacrafts
Dark brown 1 blight brown

gold yellow
-
Body
Work the whole body (legs, torso and arms) using light
peach yarn size 3-3.5 and a 2.0 hook. hook hence
Using a smaller helps you Working more
thigh ,

skin
"

into smoother
"

resenting
Legs
a

R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)

R2-R13: 6 sc (6)
For the first leg: make a slip stitch, pull out the yarn and cut it
(leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed).
Instead, after making the second leg, don’t cut the yarn; you’ll
keep on working from there to join the legs.

Torso
First, we join the legs
R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side
of the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)
R15: 16 sc (16)
Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!
R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)
R17: 18 sc (18)
R18: 18 sc (18)
R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Booty finished :)
R20: 16 sc (16)
R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)
R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)

Neck
Now 2 rounds for the neck
R26-R27: 6 sc (6)
Neck done, now we start the head

Head
R28: 6 inc (12)
R29: 12 inc (24)
R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)

@chiacrafts
At this point, your stitch marker is probably somewhere Make enough stitches
behind the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to
understand which is the front and which is the back). You
to move the stitch marker

must now make enough stitches to position the stitch marker

from here to there !
right on the left side of the doll before moving on with the
next round.
Stitch marker

¥!
Why this? Because we’re about to give an asymmetrical Back
shape to the head to make the face… if you don't place the -

stitch marker correctly, you risk to end up with a doll facing Left side
left, right, or, even worse, with the head completely twisted
around!
If you’re already close to the left side, you can simply continue
I
/
with R31. Otherwise, you must make this additional stitches. Front ,

If you’re indeed on the back, this operation should not

increase the number of rounds on the face of the doll.
However, if you were somewhere just past the left shoulder, ,
; ← Booty
you are indeed adding one round to the face. It won’t impact a .

lot the look of the doll, you just have to keep in mind to place
the eyes one round higher than indicated :)
[I've made 6 additional sc and placed the stitch marker on the
last stitch before moving on with the next round]
R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45)
R32-R33: 45 sc (45)
R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)
R35-R40: 38 sc (38)
R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
Stop and place the safety eyes between round 35 and round
36 8 sc apart. Feel free to modify the position to where you
feel it suits at best the personality of your doll. I personally
think that placing the eyes very low and quite apart gives a
sweeter look :)
If you’d like to make an embroidery for the eyes, that’s the →
You car check out the video oh buy instagram
best moment to do it! how I the
profile to see make
embroidery !
R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Keep stuffing while you close the head!
R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R46: 6 dec (6)
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry
needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the last round,
and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.

Arms
Make two

@chiacrafts
At this point, your stitch marker is probably somewhere 341445,46
behind the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to€742
understand which is the front and which is the back). You
must now make enough stitches to position the stitch marker 40
right on the left side of the doll before moving on with the
next round.
Why this? Because we’re about to give an asymmetrical
shape to the head to make the face… if you don't place the
stitch marker correctly, you risk to end up with a doll facing IE
left, right, or, even worse, with the head completely twisted
around!
If you’re already close to the left side, you can simply continue
Isis
with R31. Otherwise, you must make this additional stitches.
I
.
If you’re indeed on the back, this operation should not
increase the number of rounds on the face of the doll.
"
However, if you were somewhere just past the left shoulder,
I
you are indeed adding one round to the face. It won’t impact a
lot the look of the doll, you just have to keep in mind to place
the eyes one round higher than indicated :)

FIE
[I've made 6 additional sc and placed the stitch marker on the⇒
.
last stitch before moving on with the next round]
R31: -23
Did (1I sc,make
inc) xthis
9, 18 arm
sc (45)
R32-R33: 45 sc (45)
too
R34: (2long
? OUPSS
sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)
.
. . .

-72
R35-R40: 38 sc (38)
w
.

R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)

Stop and place the safety eyes between round 35 and round
36 8 sc apart. Feel free to modify the position to where you
feel it suits at best the personality of your doll. I personally
think that placing the eyes very low and quite apart gives a
sweeter look :)

¥
If you’d like to make an embroidery for the eyes, that’s the → B

⇒
best moment to do it! → 12

R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)

R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Keep stuffing while you close the head!
R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18) =:
R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12) → 7
R46: 6 dec (6)
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry Is
needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the last round,
and pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body. I
.

Arms I ,

Make two

@chiacrafts
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2-R10: 5 sc (5)
Then make a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch.
This should give you the curvature for the shoulders. You can
also decide to stop at R10.
At the end of each arm, pull out the yarn and leave a long tail
for sewing.
Sew the arms so that the upper part corresponds to round 23
of the body (right below the neck).

Dress

Skirt
Work with light brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook
We’ll start in rows and join the two extremities to work in
rounds later on.
Row1: chain 13 (12)
Row2-Row3: 12 sc (12)
Join the extremities and start working in rounds
R5: (inc, 5 sc) x 2 (14)
R6: 14 sc (14)
R7: (6 sc, inc) x 2 (16)
R8: 16 sc (16)
R9: (7 sc, inc) x 2 (18)
R10: 18 sc (18)
R11: (8sc, inc) x 2 (20)
R12: 20 sc (20)
R13: (9 sc, inc) x 2 (22)
R14: 22 sc (22)
End with a slip stitch and fasten off. Hide the tail inside the
skirt.

Shirt
Work with cream color yarn size 2 and 2.5 hook
The shirt is worked in rows.
Row1: chain 15 (14)
Row2: 14 sc (14)
Row3: 2 sc, chain 3, skip 3, 4 sc, chain 3, skip 3, 2 sc (14)
Row4-Row6: 14 sc (14)
Fasten off. Leave a long tail for sewing.
The opened part is the back of the shirt.

@chiacrafts
 x start stitching from here

Now we create the sleeves in the two holes created between

Row3 and Row4 using the same yarn. Back

You must start by creating a round of 11 stitches in the hole. )

There are only 6 stitches available, which means you have to
be creative. For both sleeves, you should start stitching from
the lower-back part of the hole (see picture), this will make
the inc in R4-5 be always on the lower.•••• part of the sleeve..
.
I
These 11 stitches are R1.
front
R1-R2:11 sc (11)
R3: 2 sc, inc, 8 sc (12)
R4: 2 sc, inc, 9 sc (13)

:* :
R5: 2 sc, inc, 10 sc (14)
R6-R7: 14 sc (14)
R8: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
R9: (4 sc, dec) x 2 (10)

Collar
Work with white yarn size 2 and 2.0 hook
Start in the first loop of the chain 15 made in R1 of the shirt.
The collar is worked in two simple rows
Row1: 6 sc, 1 slip stitch
Turn without making the additional chain you’d do at the end
of a row
Row2: 6 sc
Make the same on the opposite side of the shirt (yes, the hole
for the two slip stitches is the same!), starting from the last
loop of the chain.

Corset
Work with black yarn size 2 and 2.0 hook
R1: chain 13 (12)
R2: 12 sc (12) Shiur Collar
#
→

R3: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)

R4: 14 sc (14)
The open part should stay on the front.

Skirt
-
Dress the doll
First, put on the shirt and sew it to the back. I usually sew the
shirt a bit to the body of the doll as well, to keep it in place.
Put on the skirt, and sew it on the back (the upper part of the
skirt should touch the lower part of the shirt). I also sew it a

@chiacrafts
bit to the doll’s body and to the shirt to keep everything in
place. corset
Put the corset on: the opened part stays on the front, and the
narrow extremity (round1) is the upper one. Sew the \
extremities of the upper part together. You won’t be able to
join the extremities of the upper part: weave the thread to join
the extremities (as in the picture).

Hair
Work with yellow-gold yarn size 2.5-3 and 3.0 hook.
I usually always make two levels of hair wig when I make long
loose hair. One is to be sewed around the head few levels ① Put corset C)

④
below the top, and the other one to be sewed on top of the oh and sew

⑦
head. I use this technique very often because I don’t like both the lower part
to only sew the hair on top of the head (the scalp is visible)
and the shape they get if I sew them completely to the head. is
o
I
Therefore, I always make two layers: the lower one covers the
scalp and the second one gives a nice bulky effect. If you’re
used to work elsewise or you’re looking for a simpler solution, g-
② Weave the thread to join
you could just use the second layer wig (the upper one).
the extremities of the upper
Here below I report the complete instructions.
part
First layer wig

15
7- RST LEVEL WIG
You need to first prepare a long chain (main chain) long 15. chain
④ Make a
You’re going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this
chain. 000000

18
-

Each hair is (chain 30, 1 sc, 2 sc in same loop, 2 sc, 2 sc in

→
Make one hair in each loop of the due in
same loop, 22 sc + sc in next loop of the main chain) repeat x
14. 000000 -

bitbite
You can add more hairs if needed (you must check for them to
cover the back of the head circumference from 3-4 stitches
from each eye).

Second layer wig

SECOND LEVEL WIG
You need to first prepare a long chain (main chain) long 18.
You’re going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this ④ Make a che in

chain.
000000 -

Each hair is (chain 30, 29 sc + sc in next loop of the main

→
chain) repeat x 17 . Make one hair in each loop of the due in

You can add more hairs if needed (you must check for them to
000000N
cover the entire head circumference). .

o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.o.io
.
.
@chiacrafts
Once you’re done, pass a thread in all the loops of the main
chain, pull and make a knot.

Sew the hair on the head

Sew the main chain of the first layer wig at round 42 of the
dolls body, and then sew each hair of this wig to the head at
round 32 of the body.
Sew the center of the second wig on top of the head, then
sew each hair but the 3 on the front to the head at round 42.
With the remaining 3 hairs, you will create the bangs. Roll
them in a spiral and sew the spiral to the head.

wait
① wrap the first layer around the heed @ Round 42

FI
000000 -
"

'¥i¥af÷¥¥
:÷÷÷÷¥÷÷÷÷

÷ .

of the second

⑧
② Pass a thread through all loops of chain 18 ② Pull to dose the wig

00000¥
layer
③ sew the center at the

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of the

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to the top

:* :*
wig

:&
%
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head

.
.

o¥¥¥¥i%¥¥¥¥¥ ④ Roll the 3 frontal heirs to #

:
form a spiral and sew
→
my them on the forehead
,

s
@chiacrafts
Basket
Use Dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook.
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (1 sc, inc) x 6 (18)
R4: 18 sc in inner loop only (18)
R5-R6: 18 sc (18)
R7: chain 6, skip 9, sc (To create the handle)
Fasten off

Shoes
Work with black yarn size 2 and 3.0 hook.
R1: chain 5
R2: work around the chain 5: 3 sc in second loop from hook, 2
sc, 2 sc in next loop (the first one made for the chain), turn
around the chain and make other 2 sc (9)
R3: 9 sc in inner loop only (9)
R4: 2 dec, 5 sc (7)
Make two shoes and sew them to the feet.
To sew the shoes I usually do this: I first put the shoe on the Hairband
foot, and I pass the tail inside all 7 sc of the last round with a ]
tapestry needle. Then I pull to well fix the shoe and I pass the
needle a couple of times inside the feet to fix it. At the end I
make a knot and I hide the tail within the shoe.

Hairband
Work with black yarn size 2 and 3.0 hook.
The hairband is worked in two simple rows. Remember to
leave a long tail both at the beginning and at the end, as you’ll
use it to tie the headband around the doll’s head.
Row1: chain 21 (20)
Row2: 20 sc (20)
I make it more robust, pass the tail left at Row2 in the first
loop of Row1, and pass the tail left at Row1 in the last stitch
of Row2. The hairband has now a circular shape. Put it
around the dolls head passing the lower part under the hair,
and pull the extremities. Make a knot to tighten it.
Bye bye !
-

And we're done !

Chiara
'
-

I hope you enjoyed it is

@chiacrafts
I unit wait to see the result ! ! !