This is a pattern to crochet
NBee⑧⑧e⑧¥÷÷÷÷÷
pattern
This was
written by
@ Chi a crafts
who hopes you'll all
enjoy it a lot !
@chiacrafts
Material used
★ 3.5 mm hook
★ 3.0 mm hook
★ 2.5 mm hook
★ 2.0 mm hook
★ Tapestry needle
★ Black safety eyes
★ Stuffing (poly fiber fill is the best, otherwise some cotton
wool will do)
★ Dark brown yarn size 3-3.5
★ Light peach yarn size 3-3.5
★ Yellow-gold yarn size 3-3.5
★ Yellow yarn size 2.5
★ White yarn size 2
★ Red yarn size 3-3.5 (for flower only)
★ Green yarn size 3-3.5 (for flower only)
Note: you can vary the size of the yarn, but you should keep the
proportions. The thread you use for the clothes (especially for the
top part) should be thinner than the one you use for the body!
This is because the doll is very small, so her arms and body are
very thin: cover it up with a shirt made with thick yarn would be
like dressing you up with a t-shirt as thick as a winter coat :)
When I had only size 3 yarn, I used to split the thread to make it
thinner!
Dork brown Red
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Site 2.5
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White
@chiacrafts
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Yellow Gold light peach
Body
Work the whole body (legs, torso and arms) using light peach
yarn size 3-3.5 and a 2.0 hook.
Legs
R1: 6 sc in magic ring (6)
R2-R13: 6 sc (6)
For the first leg: make a slip stitch, pull out the yarn and cut it
(leave a long tail in case some sewing should be needed).
Instead, after making the second leg, don’t cut the yarn; you’ll
keep on working from there to join the legs.
Torso
First, we join the legs
R14: 3 sc in 2nd leg, chain 2, 6 sc in 1st leg, 2 sc in back side of
the chain, 3 sc in 2nd leg (16)
R15: 16 sc (16)
Now we’re enlarging to create the booty!
R16: 2 sc, (inc, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (18)
R17: 18 sc (18)
R18: 18 sc (18)
R19: 2 sc, (dec, 2 sc) x 2, 8 sc (16)
Booty finished :)
R20: 16 sc (16)
R21: (6 sc, dec) x 2 (14)
R22: (5 sc, dec) x 2 (12)
R23: (4 sc, dec) x2 (10)
R24: (3 sc, dec) x 2 (8)
R25: (2 sc, dec) x 2 (6)
Neck
Now 2 rounds for the neck
R26-R27: 6 sc (6)
Neck done, now we start the head
Head
R28: 6 inc (12)
R29: 12 inc (24)
R30: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
@chiacrafts
At this point, your stitch marker is probably somewhere behind Make enough stitches
the doll’s back (use the booty as a reference to understand which
is the front and which is the back). You must now make enough to move the stitch marker
stitches to position the stitch marker right on the left side of the
from here to there !
doll before moving on with the next round.
Why this? Because we’re about to give an asymmetrical shape to
the head to make the face… if you don't place the stitch marker Stitch marker
µ"
Back
correctly, you risk to end up with a doll facing left, right, or, even
worse, with the head completely twisted around!
If you’re already close to the left side, you can simply continue Left side
with R31. Otherwise, you must make this additional stitches.
If you’re indeed on the back, this operation should not increase
the number of rounds on the face of the doll. However, if you I
I!
were somewhere just past the left shoulder, you are indeed
Front ,
adding one round to the face. It won’t impact a lot the look of the
doll, you just have to keep in mind to place the eyes one round ← Booty
higher than indicated :)
[I've made 6 additional sc and placed the stitch marker on the
last stitch before moving on with the next round] :
R31: (1 sc, inc) x 9, 18 sc (45)
R32-R33: 45 sc (45)
R34: (2 sc, dec) x 7, 17 sc (38)
R35-R40: 38 sc (38)
R41: (17 sc, dec) x 2 (36)
Stop and place the safety eyes between round 35 and round 36
8 sc apart. Feel free to modify the position to where you feel it
suits at best the personality of your doll. I personally think that
placing the eyes very low and quite apart gives a sweeter look :)
If you’d like to make an embroidery for the eyes, that’s the best
moment to do it!
R42: (4 sc, dec) x 6 (30)
R43: (3 sc, dec) x 6 (24)
Keep stuffing while you close the head!
R44: (2 sc, dec) x 6 (18)
R45: (1 sc, dec) x 6 (12)
R46: 6 dec (6)
Cut the yarn leaving a long tail for sewing. Using a tapestry
needle, pass the tail through all the loops of the last round, and
pull. Make a knot and hide the yarn inside the doll’s body.
Arms
Work with gold yellow yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook
R1: 5 sc in magic ring (5)
R2-R6: 5 sc (5)
Change to light peach yarn size 3-3.5 and 2.0 hook
@chiacrafts
I forgot to take e picture of the naked body ! you car refer
to Esmeralda 's one !
R7: Inner loops only 5 sc (5)
R8-R10: 5 sc (5)
Then make a slip stitch, turn, make 2 sc, one more slip stitch.
This should give you the curvature for the shoulders. You can
also decide to stop at R10.
Make 2.
At the end of each arm, pull out the yarn and leave a long tail for
sewing.
Sew the arms so that the upper part corresponds to round 23 of
the body (right below the neck).
Dress
Dress base (corset + skirt)
Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook
We’ll start in rows and join the two extremities to work in rounds
later on.
Row1: chain 11 (10)
Row2: 10 sc (10)
Row3: (4 sc, inc) x 2 (12)
Row4: (5 sc, inc) x 2 (14)
Row5: (6 sc, inc) x 2 (16)
Now we start working on the petticoat.
Switch to white yarn size 2 and 2.0 hook
Row6: work in front loops only 16 sc (16)
Row7:(1 sc, inc) x 8 (24)
Join the extremities (the loops left at round 6 should be at the
extern, it’s important!) and start working in rounds
R8: (1 sc, inc) x 12 (36)
R9: 36 sc (36)
R10: (17 sc, inc) x 2 (38)
R11: 38 sc (38)
R12: (18 sc, inc) x 2 (40)
R13: 40 sc (40)
R14: (19 sc, inc) x 2 (42)
R15: 42 sc (42)
R16: (20 sc, inc) x 2 (44)
R17: 44 sc (44)
R18: inc, 42 sc, inc (46)
R19: inc, 44 sc, inc (48)
R20: sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, sc (50)
R21: 2 sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, 2 sc (52)
R22: 3 sc, inc, 44 sc, inc, 3 sc (54)
@chiacrafts
Hourglass hope
R23: 13 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 13 sc (56)
R24: 14 sc, inc, 26 sc, inc, 14 sc (58)
R25: (chain 2, sc) x 58
End with a slip stitch and fasten off. Hide the tail inside the skirt.
We’re now moving on with the skirt.
Start again from Row6
Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook
Row6: work in front loops only 16 sc (16)
Then move on following the same instruction as for the petticoat,
but stopping at round 22.
The aim is that the petticoat should be visible, so the skirt must
be a bit shorter.
When joining to work in loops after row 7, I joined it and started
to work in the opposite direction compared to what I did for the
petticoat (petticoat + skirt looks a bit like an hourglass, as in the
picture). I did this because it was easier for working, but it also
gave a nice texture effect: working this way, you’ll reverse the
skirt at the end, meaning that the texture visible from the outside
will actually be the inside one.
Once the skirt is ready, end with a slip stitch and fasten off. With
the tail left, sew a bit the skirt to the petticoat.
Shoulders straps
Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.0 hook
Each strap is
Chain 13, 12 sc
you can adjust the length.
Dress details (“draps”)
Work with gold yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook
Each piece is
Chain 10, 9 slip stitches
Leave a long tail both at the beginning and at the end. Make 3
knots between the tails. Make as many as you need (I made 7).
Then sew them on the dress. I used the tails to do so (see
graphical instructions).
Use the tail of die drop to sew it to the next one .
then use the same tail to sew both to the dress .
then
with the next d rap
Bed
proceed .
←
@chiacrafts
Dress the doll
Put the dress on and sew it on the back. Then sew the shoulder
straps to the dress on the front and on the back. Make a decor
with gold yarn if you wish.
Hair
Loose part
Work with dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.5 hook
You need to first prepare a chain (main chain) long 16. You’re
going to crochet one single hair in each loop of this chain.
Each hair is (chain 21, 20 sc) repeat x 15.
You can add more hairs if needed (you must check for them to
cover the back of the head circumference from 3-4 stitches from
each eye). Loose part
Once you’re done, pass a thread in all the loops of the main
chain, pull and make a knot. ②
Chignon
Work with dark brown yarn size 3-3.5 and 3.0 hook
R1: 6 sc in Magic ring (6)
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go.gg
R2: 6 inc (12)
R3: (2 sc, inc) x 4 (16) .
R4: (sc, inc) x 8 (24)
R5-R7: 24 sc (24)
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Sew the hair on the head .
Sew the center of the wig on top of the head, then sew all hairs
except the 4 on the front to the head at round 42. Sew the same
hairs also at round 36. Bend the remaining 4 hairs to create the
wavy part on the front, and sew them to the back.
Sew the chignon on top of the head, so that it covers the loose
ends of the 4 hairs on the front. You should also stuff it a bit :)
To make the headband, simply make a chain long enough with
the yellow yarn, and tie it around the chignon (it’s also great to
cover up imperfections!).
:*
⑥ want . .
.
.÷④⑧⑧¥¥⇐⇒
@chiacrafts
,
Shoes
Work with yellow yarn size 2.5 and 2.5 hook.
R1: chain 5
R2: work around the chain 5: 3 sc in second loop from hook, 2 sc,
2 sc in next loop (the first one made for the chain), turn around
the chain and make other 2 sc (9)
R3: 9 sc in inner loop only (9)
R4: 2 dec, 5 sc (7)
Make two shoes and sew them to the feet.
To sew the shoes I usually do this: I first put the shoe on the foot,
and I pass the tail inside all 7 sc of the last round with a tapestry
needle. Then I pull to well fix the shoe and I pass the needle a
couple of times inside the feet to fix it. At the end I make a knot
and I hide the tail within the shoe.
Rose
Work with red yarn size 3 and 2.0 hook.
The rose is simply:
(chain 2, 4 sc in second loop from hook) x 5
Then roll is and sew it
For the leaves:
Work with green yarn size 3 and 2.0 hook.
(chain 3, sc in second loop from hook, double crochet) x 2
Bye bye !
-
And we're done !
Chiara
'
-
I hope you enjoyed it is
I unit wait to see the result ! ! !
@chiacrafts
