Introduction to Italy: Italy is home to a large number of grape varieties, many of

which are rarely seen outside of the country. The diversity of these varieties and
the styles of wine they produce mean that it is simpler to cover Italy over a
number of short chapters. In this brief introduction we cover the wine laws that
apply throughout Italy and show how the different wine regions relate to each other
on the map.

ITALIAN WINE LAWS.

The geographical indications below are common to all Italian wine regions. PDO
Wines The Italian for PDO is Denominazione di Origine Protetta (DOP) but the
following traditional terms are more widely seen on labels:
Denominazione di Origine Controllata {DOC) -The wines in this category are subject
to geographical boundaries as well as limitations on grape varieties and production
methods. Denominazione di Origine Controllata e Garantita {DOCG) -In addition to
meeting all DOC requirements these wines must be bottled in the area of production
and are subject to a Ministry of Agriculture tasting. PGI Wines The Italian for PGI
is lndicazione Geografica Protetta (IGP) but the traditional term lndicazione
Geografica Tipica (IGT) is commonly used.

Other Labelling Terms.

Classico: Over time, the boundaries of a number of appellations have expanded to
allow new plantings outside the original zone. The term Classico acknowledges wines
that have been made solely from the original classified land and includes many of
the best wines from the area.
Riserva: This term acknowledges wines with both higher alcohol levels and longer
ageing than the minimums stipulated by the appellation laws

Northern Italy produces a wide range of wine styles from the full-bodied tannic
reds of Barolo to the delicate white wines of Soave. All this is possible because
of diverse geography and an incredible number of unique local grape varieties. This
chapter will cover the regions of Alto Adige, Trentino, Friuli-Venezia Giulia,
Veneto and Piemonte.

CLIMATE AND GRAPE GROWING. The vineyard regions of Northern Italy are located in
the foothills of the Alps and on the extensive plain of the River Po. Overall, the
area has a moderate climate with dry, short summers. The Alps form a barrier that
extends the length of the north Italian border, and shelte r the vineyards from
rain. Local rivers, including the Po, and glacial lakes, such as Lake Garcia,
provide a moderating influence to inland areas. Areas that lie close to the sea can
have higher levels of rainfall, meaning that fungal diseases can be a problem. The
vineyards in the north of Italy were traditionally planted with high yielding vines
at low densities. A complex trellising system called pergola was common. In this
system the vine canopy is t rained high with the fruit hanging down below a
horizontal canopy of leaves. This protects the grapes from sunburn as well as
allowing air to circulate, minimising the risk of rot . Pergolas are still used
when high acidity and low sugar levels are required (such as for sparkling wine
grapes) and also when wines are to be made from dried grapes, which need to be free
from damage and disease. However, higher density plantings using VSP train ing are
now more common.

TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE.
Alto Adige Centred around the town of Bolzano in the foothills of the Alps, Alto
Adige is Italy's most northerly wine region . The vineyards are planted on terraces
on the south-eastand south-west-facing valley sides of the River Adige. The region
has a moderate climate , with short, dry summers and low rainfall during the
growing season. Most of the vineyards experience a large diurnal range due to their
altitudes, making them ideal for the production of aromatic whites and elegant,
light-bodied reds. The most notable white wine here is Pinot Grigio. It
tends to be made in a dry style, with a light to medium body, high acidity and
citrus and green fruit flavours (for further details on how this variety is
typically produced see section Pi not Gris/Grigio in Chapter 8). Gewurztraminer,
Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc are the next most important white grapes. Red wine
production is dominated by Italian variety Schiava, producing light fruity wines
with low to medium tann ins and flavours of raspberries and plums. Almost all wines
are labelled under the regional name of Alto Adige DOC.

Trentino.
Trentino is located directly to the south of Alto Adige. The valley is wider here
than further north and vines are planted on the valley floor as well as the slopes
on both sides of the valley. Trentino has dry summers and low rainfall during the
growing season, similar to Alto Adige, but overall the vineyards experience a
slightly warmer climate. This is due to Trentino's more southerly latitude, the
greater number of vineyards at lower altitudes, and the mountains to the west side
of the valley that protect the region from the cooling influences of Lake Garcia.
The main varieties are Chardonnay and Pinot Grigio.
The wines made from grapes grown on the valley floor tend to be medium-bodied with
medium acidity and ripe stone fruit flavours . Those made from grapes grown at
higher altitudes are more similar to the whites from Alto Adige. Merlot and the
Italian varietyTeroldego are the two most planted black grapes, grown mainly on the
mid -slopes and valley floor. The latter grape produces wines with a deep colour ,
medium to high tannins, high acidity and a medium to full body with aromas of black
fruit . The wines are normally matured in oak, and the best examples have the
ability to age. Most wines are labelled under the regional name ofTrentino DOC.

FRIULI-VENEZIA GIULIA.
The wine region of Friuli-Venezia Giulia is located in northern Italy's eastern
corner. The most northerly vineyards in the region are located in the foothills of
the Alps. The climate is moderate and continental, cooled by cold air from the
mountains. The vineyards in the south of the region are based on the flat plain
near the Adriatic Sea and experience a warm maritime climate . A large number of
grape varieties are planted, producing rich, ripe white and red wines, the most
prevalent being Pinot Grigio and Merlot. Friuli-Venezia Giulia produces some of the
richest Pi not Grigio in Italy, the medium- to full -bodied wines displaying juicy
peach and tropical fruit flavours. Merlot is the most planted black variety, making
medium-bodied wines with medium acidity and tannins and ripe red fruit flavours,
often with a hint of spice from oak. The native white Friulano is also widely grown
giving wines with medium to high acidity, medium body and aromas of pear, red
apples and herbs. Wines from the plain are labelled Friuli Grave DOC. They tend to
be white, and made in a simple, fruity style. The regions of Collio DOC and Colli
Orientali DOC, both located in the hills, are known for premium, more concentrated
white wines with Colli Orientali also noted for its reds.

VENETO Veneto is one of Italy's largest wine-producing regions and home to some of
its best known wines, Soave and Valpolicella. The region extends from the southern
end of Lake Garda in the west to Venice in the east and ranges from the foothills
of the Alps in the north to the flat plains of the Po in the south . The climate is
warm with moderate rainfall. Cooling influences come from altitude, exposing the
vineyards in the foothills to a large diurnal temperature range, and breezes from
Lake Garda cool the vineyards in the west of the region . The flat plain is
affected by moist air and fog from the River Po, increasing the number of sprays
needed to combat disease and rot. The flat fertile plain is a source of fruit for
inexpensive,high volume brands growing international grape varieties such as Pinot
Grigio, Chardonnay and Merlot and Italian grapes like Corvina, Garganega and
Trebbiano. High yields mean that these wines are usually simple and fruity . They
are labelled Veneto IGT. Prosecco is a sparkling wine DOC, the greater part of
which is in Veneto, although some of the vineyards are located in Friuli-Venezia
Giulia (for more details see Chapter 42 Sparkling Wines of the World)
Soave.
Soave is east of Verona and has two distinct parts : foothills to the north and a
flat plain in the south , near the River Po. The soils on the foothills are made up
of limestone and clay with some volcanic rocks. These soils are naturally cool, and
this together with the influence of altitude, slows down ripening, leading to
grapes with full flavour ripeness yet high acidity . The wines are capable of
maturing for a number of years. The vines on the plain are planted on sandy,
alluvial soils that aid ripening so the grapes are fruitier with medium acidity and
the wines are meant to be drunk young. The main variety is the Italian white grape
Garganega but small amounts of other white grape varieties can be added to the
blend. The wines typically have medium to high acidity levels, a medium body and
display aromas of pears, red apple, stone fruit and sometimes white pepper. They do
not typically display any aromas or flavours of new oak. The best examples can age,
developing aromas of almonds and honey. Wines made using grapes from the entire
region can be labelled Soave DOC but wines made using grapes from the foothills can
be labelled Soave Classico DOC.

Valpolicella.
Valpolicella is north-west of Verona, and has a similar topography to Soave. The
foothills in the north have limestone, clay and volcanic soils, which slow down
ripening so the grapes have more acidity. The soils in the flatter south of the
region are gravel and sand, which is warmer, so the grapes are fruitier with less
acidity . The main grape in Valpolicella is Corvina, an Italian grape native to the
region, which has a thin skin, moderate colour, low to medium tannins and high
acidity. In order to increase the colour and tannins of the wine, local grape
varieties can be added to the blend. Wines made using grapes from the entire region
can be labelled as Valpolicella DOC and wines made using grapes from foothills can
be labelled Valpolicella Classico DOC. The wines are simple and fruity, with light
tannins, and display red cherry flavours; they are rarely caked and are made to
drink immediately.

The passito method.

The passito method is widely used in the Veneto to increase structure and flavour
concentration (and colour in the case of red wines). The grapes are picked early
when they are still high in acidity and dried indoors, concentrating the sugars and
flavours. The fermentation does not get underway until the winter months. There are
two types of passito wine in Valpolicella. Wines labelled Amarone della
Valpolicella DOCG are dry or off-dry in style. They are full-bodied, with high
alcohol, medium to high tannins and intensely concentrated red berry and spice
flavours. These wines are usually aged in large oak casks. Wines labelled Recioto
della Valpolicella DOCG are made from grapes that are so sweet the fermentation
stops naturally. These sweet wines have intense red fruit flavours, high alcohol
levels, a full body, and medium to high tannins . The Soave region makes a sweet
white wine by the same method, labelled Recioto di Soave DOCG.

The ripasso method.

The ripasso method uses grape skins from a fermenting Amarone della Valpolicella.
Shortly before fermentation finishes the Amarone is drained off the skins. The
skins remain unpressed and are added to a vat ofValpolicella that has finished its
fermentation. Yeast, which are also transferred in this process, ferment the
remaining sugar on the Amarone grape skins, during which time the grape skins give
more colour, flavour and tannins to the wine they have been added to. Wines made in
this method can be labelled Valpolicella Ripasso DOC and are medium to fullbodied
with medium to high tannins and flavours of stewed red cherries and plums.

PIEMONTE.
Piemonte is located in the north-west corner of Italy. Mountains to the north
provide a rain shadow protecting the region from northern winds and precipitation.
The climate is moderate and continental with long, cold winters and summers that
can be subject to thunderstorms, hail and fog . Some moderating influences come
from the Po River in the southern part of the region and Lake Maggiore in the
north. The area is noted for its foothills, ranging from 1 SO to 600 metres, which
provide different aspects and altitudes for viticulture. The main grapes for
Piemonte are the black varieties of Nebbiolo, Barbera and Dolcetto and the white
varieties of Cortese and Moscato (Muscat). There are many designated wine regions
within Piemonte, but the more famous wine areas are located south of the main city
Turin, around the towns of Asti and Alba. Barolo DOCG and Barbaresco DOCG are the
most prestigious appellations in the region, but a number of other DOC and DOCG
wines are made in the wider area around the two towns. There is no IGT or IGP for
the region with all wines achieving either DOC or DOCG status.

Barolo.
The wine region of Barolo is a horseshoe-shaped valley spanning several villages
each having steep (300 to 500 metre) south-facing slopes. Barolo DOCG must be made
entirely from Nebbiolo, a black grape with high levels of acidity and tannins but
little colour. The grapes ripen slowly at these altitudes developing perfumed
aromas of sour cherries, herbs and sometimes dried flowers. In the best years the
wines are full -bodied with high acidity and tannins and they have the ability to
develop in the bottle. The wines are often made from grapes sourced from different
villages. A village name may appear on the label if the grapes are sourced purely
from that area, for example Barolo Serralunga d'Alba DOCG. The best wines come from
named vineyards or crus, which may appear on the label, such as Barolo Cannubi
DOCG. The region does grow other grapes, mainly Dolcetto and Barbera, which are
labelled using the generic Alba DOC. Barolo DOCG must be aged for three years
before release, of which 18 months must be in oak. Traditionally, Barolo was aged
for several years in large oak barrels to soften harsh tannins. Today, improvements
in vineyard management and gentler methods of extraction result in wines with
smoother, riper tannins, and mean that many producers now choose to mature their
wines for shorter periods of time . Oak maturation may take place in small barrels
(often including some new oak) or larger casks depending on the style that the
producer wants to achieve. All Barolo wines tend to benefit from further bottle
ageing. This continues to soften the tannins and adds further complexity, giving
the wine aromas of truffles, tar and leather.

Barbaresco.
The smaller region of Barbaresco is also renowned for Nebbiolo. It has south-facing
slopes at lower altitudes than those of Barolo (200 to 400 metres). The lower
altitude and influence from a local river means that Nebbiolo ripens earlier here
compared with Barolo and is fruitier and less perfumed. It has similar acidity and
tannin levels, which gives the wines the ability to age in bottle. By law,
Barbaresco DOCG must be aged for two years before release, with nine months in oak.
As the region is smaller than Barolo, there are fewer mentions of villages on the
labels but higher quality wines will be from a single named vineyard or cru.

Asti and Alba.

The wider area around Asti and Alba is home to a number of DOCs and DOCGs. The
majority of these appellations are named after a grape variety followed by their
nearest town. The black Barbera grape is the most widely planted variety and is
used to produce Barbera d'Alba DOC and Barbera d'Asti DOCG, the latter often
regarded as higher quality. It is a late ripening grape, with medium to deep
colour, low to medium tannins and high acidity, displaying aromas of red cherries
and plums and sometimes black pepper. The wines are typically made in two styles:
youthful and fruity with no oak influence, or barrel-aged to give spicy flavours.
Dolcetto is also widely planted. It is earlier ripening than Nebbiolo and Barbera
and therefore can be planted in the coolest sites. Dolcetto d'Alba DOC tends to
produce many of the finest wines. The wines have a deep, often purple, colour with
medium to high tannins and medium acidity. They display aromas of black plums, red
cherries and dried herbs. Both Barbera and Dolcetto can be drunk young but the best
examples can age for several years. Nebbiolo is also widely planted throughout this
area. Asti is also famous for its sparkling wines made from Moscato (see Chapter 42
Sparkling Wines of the World).

Gavi The white wine region of Gavi is located in south-eastern Piemonte. The vines
are grown in hills where the altitude and sea breezes result in long, slow ripening
of the white grape Cortese, emphasising its natural high acidity and floral
character. The wines are labelled as Gavi DOCG or Cortese di Gavi DOCG. If the
grapes come from the town of Gavi itself the wines may be labelled Gavi di Gavi
DOCG. The wines are pale and light-bodied, with high acidity and aromas, and
flavours of citrus, green apples and pears. Protective winemaking is the norm with
cool fermentation in stainless steel but some producers use old oak vessels for
fermentation and lees stirring to add complexity to the wines . Most of the wine is
ready to drink on release from the winery but wines from the best producers can age
well in bottle.

Central Italy.
This part of Italy is most widely associated with the grape variety Sangiovese and
the most famous wine made from it, Chianti. However, there is more to central Italy
than this. Refreshing whites and premium full-bodied reds from both local and
international grape varieties are made with great success throughout the region.
This chapter will cover the regions of
Tuscany, Umbria, Lazio, Marche and Abruzzo.

CLIMATE AND GRAPE GROWING.

South of the Po Valley, the wine regions of central Italy are dominated by the
Apennine Mountains, which run the length of the Italian Peninsula. Grapes are
planted in the hills and valleys of this mountain range with altitude providing a
moderating influence on the hot climate. Coastal regions on both sides of the
country benefit from cooling sea breezes.

TUSCANY. Tuscany stretches down the western coast of central Italy. The region can
be divided roughly into three parts: the mountainous Chianti region in the north,
the hills and valleys to the south and the flat coastal plain. Sangiovese is the
dominant and most prestigious grape throughout these three areas making wines with
high levels of acidity and tannin. It is late to ripen, so needs a warm climate,
hence its home in this part of Italy. The wines have aromas of red cherries, plums
and dried herbs and are usually aged for a period of time in oak to soften the
tannins and sometimes add spicy flavours.

Both small barrels and larger casks can be used. With bottle age the wines develop
meaty and gamey aromas. Red wines predominate in this part of Italy although some
white wines are also made throughout the region.

Chianti.
Chianti is based in the foothills of the Apennines between the cities of Pisa,
Florence and Siena. It covers a wide area,
which is divided into seven sub-zones. Sangiovese is the dominant grape, but the
wines are often blends with small amounts of other black grapes (of both French and
Italian origin). Producers of large volumes of Chianti will source their grapes
from the greater region and use Chianti DOCG on the label. Higher-quality Chianti
DOCG wines may be made from the grapes from a particular sub-zone, the name of
which can appear on the wine label (note this does not include Chianti Classico
DOCG). The sub-zones of Chianti Rufina DOCG and Chianti Colli Senesi DOCG are
particularly well known for the quality of their wines. Chianti Classico DOCG has
its own DOCG and is not a sub-zone of Chianti DOCG. Its vineyards are at higher
altitudes than those of Chianti DOCG, slowing the ripening of Sangiovese, and
resulting in wines with greater acidity and more herbal aromas. Chianti Classico
wines must be aged for 12 months before they are released onto the market. Chianti
Classico Riserva DOCG must be aged for 24 months of which at least three months
must be spent bottle ageing. Gran Selezione is the highest designation for Chianti
Classico wines; the grapes must be sourced from a single estate and the wines aged
for six months longer than Riserva. There are no stipulations concerning oak
ageing, and it is therefore the producer's decision as to whether the wine is
matured in oak and for how long. In practice, however, the vast majority of wines
are matured in oak for at least part of their time before release.

Southern Tuscany.
The vineyards of southern Tuscany are at lower altitudes than those in the north
and have a warmer climate;
however, cool maritime breezes from the south-west can moderate the temperatures.
Brunello di Montalcino DOCG and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano DOCG are the best
known appellations in the region. Due to the climate, wines from this part of
Tuscany are often more intense and fuller-bodied than the wines from Chianti. The
regulations for Brunello di Montalcino stipulate that the wines must be made
entirely from Sangiovese and undergo a minimum ageing of five years before they are
sold, two of which must be spent in oak. Vino Nobile di Montepulciano can be a
blend of Sangiovese with other permitted varieties and must be aged for a minimum
of two years before it is sold. Producers from both Brunello di Montalcino and Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano can declassify their wines to DOC as necessary (for
example, if there is a poor vintage or the vines are very young). These wines are
called either Rosso di Montalcino DOC or Rosso di Montepulciano DOC respectively.

The Coast.
The relatively flat coastal region ofTuscany is cooled by sea breezes rather than
altitude . Black Bordeaux varieties and a number of other international grapes are
widely planted here. The Tuscan coast witnessed the birth of the first 'Super-
Tuscan'. The original wine was made from Cabernet Sauvignon and sold for a premium
price despite not being eligible for PDQ status. Super-Tuscans were a turning point
for the international image of Italian wines as they re-established Italy's
reputation for excellence. Many Tuscan producers have followed this example and
make high -quality wines from international varieties,
sometimes with Italian varieties as part of the blend. Many are bottled as Toscana
IGT but the relatively recently formed appellations of Bolgheri DOC and Maremma
Toscana DOC both permit wines to be made entirely from non-Italian varieties
including Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah.

UMBRIA.
Umbria has a climate similar to Tuscany's but it is more continental without any
influence from the Mediterranean. The region is known for its white wine Orvieto
DOC, which is a blend of Grechetto, Trebbiano and, often, a few other local grapes.
The wines are light in body with med ium to high acidity and flavours of ripe
grapefruit and peaches. The best examples tend to be those with the most Grechetto
in the blend. Wines are made protectively and undergo cool fermentation in
stainless steel.
Umbria's most prestigious red wine is Sagrantino di Montefalco DOCG, made from the
thick-skinned Sagrantino grape.

LAZIO.
To the south of Tuscany is the region of Lazio. The best known wine is Frascati
DOC. Situated in the hills to the south of Rome the vineyards are cooled by both
altitude and a number of small nearby lakes offering perfect conditions for white
grapes. The wines are blends of Malvasia and Trebbiano, usually made in a fresh,
unoaked style. They are medium in body with medium to high acidity and flavours of
citrus fruit, sometimes with the Malvasia providing floral, orange blossom aromas.

MARCHE.
Marche is located on the eastern side of the Apennines and is best known for its
white wines made from the Verdicchio grape. The most famous of these is Verdicchio
dei Castelli di Jesi DOC. Verdicchio is naturally high in acidity with flavours of
green apples, lemons and sometimes displays notes of fennel and almonds. Many of
the wines are simple and fruity, but the best have greater concentration and can
develop notes of honey and almonds with bottle age. The red wines of the region are
blends of Montepulciano and Sangiovese, of which the best known is Conero DOCG.

ABRUZZO.
Below Marche is the region of Abruzzo. The region is famous for its black variety
Montepulciano, which gives its name to the main wine Montepulciano d'Abruzzo DOC
(no relation to the town of Montepulciano in Tuscany). The Montepulciano grape has
high levels of colour and tannins, medium acidity and flavours of black plums and
cherries. Many wines are simple and fruity, made without any oak ageing, but the
most concentrated examples are often matured for a short time in oak.

Southern ltaly.
The heat of Southern Italy means that it is best known for full-bodied red wines
made from grape varieties such as Aghamco, Pr1m1t1vo and Negroamaro. However, in
common with the rest of Italy, there is a great deal of variety to be found here,
from perfumed whites made from Fiano to the restrained and elegant reds made from
grapes grown at altitude on the slopes of Mount Etna. This chapter will cover the
regions of Campania, Basilicata, Puglia and the island of Sicily.

CLIMATE AND GRAPE GROWING.

The area of southern Italy extends south of Lazio, down to the tip of the country,
and includes the peninsula of Puglia, together with the island of Sicily (Sicilia).
The climate is hot and dry inland, becoming humid near the coast. Many of the
vineyards are located on slopes within the Apennines, the altitude providing some
relief from the heat. Sea breezes cool the vineyards located on the flatter terrain
of the Puglian peninsula. Agriculture is the principal economic activity in the
south, with grape growing particularly important in the regions of Puglia and
Sicilia, where significant volumes of wine are made. Traditionally, vines were
bush-trained low to the ground with leaf cover protecting the grapes from sunburn.
Old vines are evidence of this but cordon
training and trellising are the most common methods used today. These newer
techniques allow for mechanisation on Puglia's flat plain.

CAMPANIA.
Campania is home to more DOCGs than any other region in the south. A varied
landscape with mountains, valleys and coastal plains means that a range of black
and white grape varieties can be grown here. Fiano and Greco arguably produce the
best white wines in the region. Both are popular southern white varieties, grown in
many other regions, but many of the best examples come from the
Campanian appellations of Fiano di Avellino DOCG and Greco di Tufo DOCG. Fiano
produces wines with medium acidity, medium to full body and aromas of stone fruit,
melons and mango. It is often made to be drunk young but better examples are
matured in oak and can be aged in bottle, developing aromas of wax and honey. Greco
has more acidity and is leaner in body, producing wines with green apple, stone
fruit and passion fruit flavours. Most producers ferment their wines in stainless
steel, but some use old oak and techniques such as lees stirring to enhance the
texture of their wines. The best can age in bottle to develop aromas of honey and
mushrooms. Aglianico is the most prestigious black grape of the south; it has deep
colour with high acidity and tannin, with flavours of black fruit. It is matured in
oak and can age in bottle, where it develops earthy, forest floor notes. It is
found in a number of wines in Campania and other regions but is at its best in
Taurasi DOCG.

BASILICATA.
Just below Campania, Basilicata is an extremely mountainous region where vineyards
can reach 900 metres, especially on the vast, high plain that surrounds the extinct
volcano of Monte Vulture. Aglianico is the principal grape and makes Aglianico del
Vulture DOC,
which is considered to be the best wine of the region.

PUGLIA.
This is a vast agricultural area, where large volumes of grapes are grown. The hot
climate means the region is dominated by black grapes, most notably Negroamaro and
Primitivo (Zinfandel). When they are grown at high yields these grape varieties
produce simple, fruity wines for early drinking which are sold as Puglia IGT. When
yields are controlled, Negroamaro produces high-quality full-bodied wines, with
medium tannins and acidity, high alcohol and baked red and black fruit. Many of the
best come from Sal ice Salentino DOC. Primitivo can also produce high-quality wines
in a similar style. The best are full-bodied, with medium tannins and
acidity, high alcohol and pronounced flavours of very ripe berry fruit.

SICILY.
Like Puglia, Sicily also grows vast quantities of grapes, most of which find their
way into either IGT Terre di Sicilia/Terre Siciliane, or if yields are slightly
lowered, Sicilia DOC. Nero d'Avola is the dominant black grape in these wines and
is grown widely throughout the island. It produces medium- to full-bodied wines,
with medium levels of acidity and tannins, with aromas of plums and black cherries.
It is often made in a fruity, early-drinking style but those from the best
producers are more concentrated and complex. Local white grape varieties are either
sold as varietal or blended wines, and are usually made in an unoaked style,
displaying citrus and stone fruit flavours. International varieties, such as
Chardonnay and Syrah are also planted; Syrah has been
particularly successful. There are a number of small appellations. Some of the best
wines on the island come from Etna DOC, produced
from old, low-yielding vines at high altitudes. The reds are particularly
noteworthy; these are made from Nerello Mascalese and Nerello Cappuccio, which are
blended together to create fragrant wines with both high acid and tannins, and
aromas of sour red cherries, cranberries and raspberries, sometimes with dried
herbs. With bottle age the high tannins soften and mushroom -like aromas
can develop. High-quality white wines are also made. They tend to be medium-bodied
with high acidity, and display citrus fruit often with a stony/steely character
developing aromas of honey and wax with bottle age.