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མ-ཨས .
 THE

BILLIARD BOOK .
 LONDON
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THEBILLIARD
 THE

BILLIARD BOOK .

BY

CAPTAIN CRAWLEY
AUTHOR OF

* BILLIARDS, ITS THEORY AND PRACTICE ' THE HANDY-BOOK OF GAMES,'

ETC . ETC .

WITH NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIVE DIAGRAMS.

LONDON :
LONGMANS, GREEN, AND CO.
3 1866.

85
' G 1225 .6 . 9
HARVARD COLLEGE LIBRARY
FROM
THE BEQUEST OF
EVERT JANSEN WENDELL
1918

-
-
Paneris, Curse beebiscine

-
- - -
THE AUTHOR RESERVES TO HIMSELF ALL RIGHTS OF TRANSLATION AND REPUBLICATION .
 THIS TREATISE
IS

Dedicated
TO

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS

THE PRINCE OF WALES, K.G .

BY

HIS ROYAL HIGHNESS ' S

MOST OBEDIENT, HUMBLE, AND DEVOTED SERVANT,

RAWDON CRAWLEY.
 PREFACE .

KO H E very favourable reception accorded to my

AS first Treatise on Billiards has induced me
ho to produce the present volume. In it will
be found a digest of all that is known of this excellent
indoor game. From a long experience of the diffi
culties encountered by young players in acquiring
a knowledge of the scientific principles of Billiards,
I have thought it well to make my Book both ele
mentary and practical. The instructions given are,
I trust, sufficiently explicit to enable any one speedily
to master the secrets of Billiards, even if he had never
previously handled a Cue, or struck a Ball. Billiards
has grown into a science since White and Kentfield
illustrated its peculiarities ; and so rapidly has it
improved, that some rules and theories in my former
Treatise are already obsolete . I gladly take this
opportunity of tendering my acknowledgments to
numerous celebrated players and mathematicians,who
 PREFACE . . .

have favoured me with their advice and assistance

during the passage of the work through the press,
and especially to a Cambridge friend interested in the
mathematical department of Billiards for the valuable
Appendix on the Angles of Incidence and Reflection .
In the technicalities of the Table , the Cues, and the
Balls, I have derived great benefit from the courtesy
of Messrs. Burroughes and Watts, the eminent
Billiard Table-makers of Soho Square; and for the
graphic Illustrations which accompany the text I am
indebted to Mr. John Proctor, a young artist of
considerable aptitude and taste . The Laws and
Directions for the severalGames have been compiled
and amended from those furnished by the best autho
rities ; and for some few of the Practical Diagrams I
have consulted the works of previous writers. I am
not conscious,however, of either repeating myself, or
of improperly employing the thoughts of others.
And so I may say with Imogen
Good masters, harm menot ;
Before I entered here, I call’d ; and thought
To have begged or bought, what I have took . Good troth ,
I have stolen nought! nor would not, though I had found
Gold strew 'd o' the floor.
I shall be happy to receive, through my Publishers,
any suggestions with which players may kindly
favour me, with a view to the improvement of a
future edition .
MEGATHERIUM CLUB :
April 1866 .
 CONTENTS .

CHAPTER I.
'AGE
L'AGE

INTRODUCES ALL THE REST . . . . . . . . 1

CHAPTER II.
The TABLE , THE INSTRUMENTS, AND THE GAME . . . . . 6

CHAPTER III.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES— How TO MAKE HAZARDS . . . . . 18

CHAPTER IV . ..
GENERAL PRINCIPLES — STRENGTHS DividiNG THE OBJECT Ball . . 42

CHAPTER V.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES — THE SIDE STROKE . . . . . . 53

CHAPTER VI.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES— DIVIDING BOTH Balls . . . . . 63

CHAPTER VII.
General PrincipLES— Losing HAZARDS . . . . . . 70
 CONTENTS.

CHAPTER VIII.
PAGE
GENERAL PRINCIPLES - WINNING HAZARDS . . . . . . 78

CHAPTER IX .
GENERAL Principles — CANNONS . . . . . . . 85
CHAPTER X .
EXAMPLES OF CANNONS . . . . . . . . . 96

CHAPTER XI.
CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES . . . . . . 117

CHAPTER XII.

THE GAMES and their Rules . . . . . . . . 130

CHAPTER XIII.
FOREIGN GAMES . . . . . . . . . . 202

CHAPTER XIV .
CRAMP GAMES . . . . . . . . . 227

CHAPTER XV.
How TO FIT UP A BILLIARD Room . . . . . . . 239

APPENDIX . . . . . 243
 ILLUSTRATIONS.

DIAGRAM

I. ANGLES : THE JENNY . . . . . . to face page 16

..
II. ILLUSTRATIONS OF VARIOUS STROKES
·
III. ILLUSTRATIONS OF STRENGTHS . . . .
·
IV . STRENGTHS AND ANGLES
·
V . How to STRIKE ALL THE CUSHIONS
·

VI. DIVISION OF THE OBJECT BALL .

·

VII. PRINCIPLE OF LOSING HAZARDS .

VIII. Division OF BOTH BALLS . . .
IX . HAZARDS BY DIVIDING BOTH BALLS .
X. HAZARDS BY DIVISION OF BOTH BALLS . .
XI. Losing HAZARDS IN MIDDLE POCKETS .
·

XII. LOSING HAZARDS . .

.

XIII. LOSING HAZARDS . .

.

XIV: Losing HAZARDS . .

.

XV. Losing HAZARDS .

.

XVI. WINNING HAZARDS AND TEN STROKE

XVII. WINNING HAZARDS AND STOP STROKE
.

XVIII. WINNING HAZARDS

.

XIX . WINNING HAZARDS

.

XX . WINNING HAZARDS
.

XXI. WINNING HAZARDS

.

XXII. WINNING HAZARDS

·

XXIII. EXAMPLES OF CANNONS . .

.
· ·

XXIV . Direct Cannons . . .

.

XXV. Direct Cannons, with or WITHOUT " Side ' .

XXVI. CUSHION CANNONS . . .
· ·

XXVII. CUSHION CANNONS . .

 IONS
xiv ILLUSTRAT .
DIAGRAM

XXVIII. Cushion CANNONS. . . . .. . to face page 93

XXIX . SIDE -STROKE. CANNONS .

·
XXX . SIDE -STROKE CANNONS .
XXXI. SIDE-STROKE CANNONS .
XXXII. SIDE -STROKE CANNONS . 100

· · · · · ·
XXXIII. SIDE -STROKE CANNONS . 101
XXXIV . SIDE-STROKE CANNONS . 102
XXXV. SIDE-STROKE Cannons . 103
XXXVI. SIDE-STROKE CANNONS . 104
XXXVII SIDE -STROKE CANNONS . 105
XXXVIII. SIDE-STROKE CANNONS . .. 106
XXXIX . SIDE-STROKE CANNONS . . . . 107
XL. SIDE- STROKE CANNONS With Screw . 108
XLI. SIDE -STROKE CANNONS AND CRAMP STROKES . . 109
XLII. SIDE-STROKE CANNONS BY BRICOLE . . 110
XLIII. SIDE STROKE v. REGULAR ANGLE . . . 111
XLIV . SIDE STROKE AND REGULAR ANGLE Cannons , 112
XLV. ILLUSTRATIONS OF CANNONS BY SIDE STROKE . 113
XLVI. CANNONS BY Division or SIDE STROKE . 114
XLVII. CRAMP STROKES · · · · 118
XLVIII. TEN Strokes 123
· · · ·

XLIX . TEN STROKES . 124

L. WIDE Screw Cannon 125
LI. Cushion CANNON . . 126
LII. CRAMP STROKES . . 127
LIII. TEN STROKE 128
LIV . TABLE ARRANGED FOR Skittle Pool . 183

WOODCUTS.
LET US to Billiards ' . . . . . . . . .
WAY OF USING THE Rest . .
THE Lady's Position . .
Position of the PLAYER FOR AN ORDINARY HAZARD .
PositioN FOR A Hard Hazard .
 ILLUSTRATIONS . XV
PAGE
Position for a Top HAZARD .
ION FOR ARD . . . . . . :
Position FOR A HAZARD CLOSE TO THE CUSHION .

· · ·
POSITION FOR A BACK HAZARD . .
THE BRIDGE . . . .
Position OF THE HANDS IN MAKING THE High Bridge .
EXAMPLES OF BAD AND AWKWARD WAYS OF MAKING TILE BRIDGE .
STRIKING POINTS OF THE BALL . . . . . . .
CENTRAL STROKE . . . .. . . . . . .

· · · ·
.
High STROKE . . . . . .
· · · · · · . . .
High Following STROKE . .
High OBLIQUE STROKE . .
The Low STROKE AND SCREW .

· ·
The DIP AND THE High SCREW
TAILPIECE . . . .

· · · · · ·
DIAGRAM TO ILLUSTRATE THE THEORY OF DivIDING THE BALL
Position of CUE FOR SIDE STROKE . . .
POSITION OF CUE for REVERSE SIDE STROKE .
PLAYING A BALL OUT OF BAULK . . . .
THE DIVIDED Ball . . . . . . . . . . 58
ILLUSTRATIONS OF Side STROKE . . . . . . 115, 116
PYRAMIDS . . . . . . . . . . . 188
·

Position AND MANNER OF HOLDING THE CUE FOR THE Smasu ' . 191
Various DIAGRAMS IN THE APPENDIX . . . . . . 243
et seq .
– ན ་ - - - - - - -
 THE

BILLIARD BOOK.

CHAPTER 1.

INTRODUCES ALL THE REST.

All the world 's a game,

And men and women merely Billiard-players.
SHAKESPEARE (a little altered ).

Sino ILLIARDS was never so popular as it is now .

Not so very long ago it was reckoned a game
US for gentlemen only, and not the most reputable
of amusements : a game, indeed , for club-men and tavern
frequenters, inevitably connected with late hours and heavy
wagers. But the reproach which , not altogether without
reason , once attached to Billiards has passed away, and
scarcely a country or town house of any importance is Now
Use now
ce

without its Billiard -table .

As a game of mingled skill and chance, Billiards stands at
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. I.

the head of what may be called Indoor Athletics. Requiring

far less mental exertion than Chess or Whist, it has the advan
tage of being a more social game than either of them ,as it
may be played by two persons or by a dozen ; and while it
provides amusement for the mind, it also affords exercise for
the body. The use of the Cue brings all the muscles into
action, and is for indoor play what the spade and the croquêt
mallet are for the garden and the lawn. For ladies, Billiards
is an admirable game. For men there are cricket and foot
ball, racing, hunting and fishing, riding, driving , swimming ,
gymnastics, and a score of other manly games ; while for
ladies Billiards and Croquêt are almost the only games com
bining exercise with amusement. It is believed that active
players walk a couple of miles round the table every hour.
The Miniature Billiard-tables that have lately come into use
are admirably adapted for ladies. They occupy but little
space, and are soon put out of the way when not required .
For learning Billiards they are in all respects equal to the
full-sized tables, as every Cannon
non and Hazard made on the
one can also be made on the other.
In my first book on Billiards, I told an anecdote — strictly
true— of a young lady who,by active use of the Cue, reduced
a high shoulder, when dumb-bells and all other means had
failed. Since then other like cases have come to my know
W

ledge; and at this moment I could point to a lady, moving in

what are known as the higher circles,' who by Billiard-play
has recovered health and strength , after having tried riding
and half the mineral waters in the queendom in vain !
Of the History and Introduction of Billiards I shall say but
CHAP. I. ] INTRODUCES ALL THE REST.

little, seeing that my book is intended for the practical

instruction of amateurs, and not for students in Archæology .
Thie invention of the game is generally attributed to the
French , but that some similar pastime was known to our
Saxon ancestors there seems little reason to doubt. Originally
Billiards, or its progenitor, was played on the ground with
wooden balls or bowls ; but how it came to be transferred to
the table I have not been able to ascertain .
That Billiards was popular in the sixteenth century we
have the evidence of Shakespeare, who does not hesitate at an
anachronism , and makes the Serpent of Old Nile ask her
attendant Charmian to beguile the hour, in the absence of her
Antony, with a game :
Cleopatra . Give me somemusic ; music, moody food
Ofus that trade in love.
Attendant. The music , ho !
Cleo . Let it alone ; let us to Billiards :
Come, Charmian.
Charmian . My arm is sore, best play with Mardian .
Cleo . As well a woman with an eunuch play'd
As with a woman :— Come, you'll play with me, sir ?
Mar. As wellas I can , madam .
Cleo. And when good will is show'd, though 't come too short,
The actor may plead pardon .
Antony and Cleopatra,act ii. sc. 5 .
Cuthbert Bede refers to this pretty falsification of history
in his ‘ Book of Beauty,'and shows us his idea of Cleopatra
playing at Billiards— in the dress of the period — with Mardian
waiting to make his stroke, Iras looking on , and Alexis keep
ing score :

B 2
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. I.

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LET US TO BILLIARDS!'
Strutt,in his ‘Sports and Pastimesof the People of England,"
tells us that in the beginning of the eighteenth century,the
that is, one in each corner, and onemidway between . In the en .

centre of the table was a small arch of wood or iron , and at

a little distance an upright cone which was called the king.'
In the School of Recreation '- a little book published in
1710 — there is given a representation of the table according
to this plan. At certain parts of the game it was necessary
for the ball to be driven through the arch and round the king
withouteither of them being toppled over. This was not easy,
CHAP. I.] INTRODUCES ALL THE REST.

as,being loose on the table, they were easily misplaced . This

was called the French Game. A similarmethod of playing was
said to have been introduced by the Italians. In this — which
was known as " Trucks '— the king was placed at one end of
wa wn &

the table. I am not acquainted with the name of the genius

who doubled the number of pockets -- and so doubled the
interest of the game- got rid of the arch, and banished the
king ; but I fancy that Billiards began to be played in the
modern fashion towards the close of the reign of our Second
George, because, by Statute 30 Geo . II., it was made ann un
LS un
lawful game, and was forbidden to be played in taverns under
a penalty of 101.
There are two ways of doing things— empirically and
scientifically . For one man who works by rule of science ,
there are twenty who work by rule of thumb. Take any
manual trade you like, and you will find that skilled artisans,
as they are called, work out their mechanical problems by
reason, not of any scientific plan of action, not because they
know the " why ' and the wherefore ' of their operations,
but simply because they have been taught that certain effects
produce certain results. And what is true of the mechanic
at the bench , is also true of the players at various games.
Of all the men of education who play at Chess, Whist, or
Billiards, I doubt if even one per cent. of them know any
thing of the theory of chances by which two at least of these
games are inevitably governed , or the scientific laws insepara
ble from their practice ; and the knowledge of which laws,
I have no hesitation in saying, is always a powerful aid to
success.
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . (CIAP. II.

CHAPTER II.
THE TABLE , THE INSTRUMENTS , AND THE GAME .

- And 'twixt his fingers and his thumb he held

A Billiard-cue, which ever and anon he twirled.
SHAKESPEARE. (Qy.)
DO ILLIARDS is played by two or more persons, ac
D
W cording to the game selected , on a slate table
QUQ O
VAVT covered with fine green cloth. The object of all
the various games played on the Billiard -table is to force one
or more of the balls into one or other of the six pockets, by
means of a third ball, termed the Striker's-ball ; or, to make
a Cannon, by forcing the Striker’s-ball against the other two
balls. Billiards is played by two or four persons, but in
Pool and other round games, from three to a dozen or even
more, may join .
THE TABLE.

The full-sized Billiard -table is twelve feet in length by six

in width , and it therefore contains two equal squares inside
the cushions. The best Tables are made with slate or
metal slabs, covered with superfine green cloth , and with
best native India -rubber cushions: and all Tables at which
the English Game is played have six netted pockets, one at
CHAP. II.] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS, AND GAME.

each corner, and one in the middle of each side-cushion .

The proper height of a full-sized Table is three feet from
the floor to the top of the cushions. The Table must be
accurately level. In order to obtain sufficient solidity of
foundation , and to prevent vibration, a Billiard-table should
never be set up in a room which is not properly prepared ;
a ground -floor is best, but wherever
'ever the Table
is placed the
floor should be level and firm .
Every Table, large or small, is provided with several Spots :
Seye

the winning and losing spot (technically known as “ the spot'),

at the upper end, thirteen inches from the top-cushion, and
equally distant from each side-cushion ; the winning (or Pyra
mid ) spot, a little lower down ; the centre spot, directly in the
centre of the table, between the two middle pockets ; and
the baulk spot, midway on the bauik -line. Beside these ,
there are two other smaller spots — one at each end of a
semicircle which springs from the baulk -line.
In the regular game of Billiards, the red ball is placed on the
* winning and losing ' spot, and the players start from any point
within the semicircle ; and this rule applies to the various
modifications of the Winning, Losing, and Cannon Game,
which is known generally as Billiards, in opposition to Pool,
Pyramids, & c.
Formerly it was the fashion to make Billiard-tables square,
round , oval, octagonal, and of various curious shapes ; and on
the Continent,these variations of form are not uncommon even
now . The ordinary Billiard-table of the French provinces is
an oblong of eight feet by four, without pockets,and of course
only fitted for the Cannon Game. Thecushions were formerly
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. II.

stuffed with list and layers of cloth, but India-rubber is now

always used for this purpose. This change has greatly
improved the modern style of play .

THE CUE.

The long tapering stick with which the ball is struck is called
a Cue. The best Cues are made of thoroughly-seasoned ash.
The Butt or handle should be well-flattened on one side, in
order that it may be used to strike with when necessary. The
other part of the Cue should be quite round, and taper finely
and gradually to the tip . The tip should be made of two kinds
of leather, hard next the wood of the Cue, and springy at the
top. What are called “ French tips' are very good for fine
play. They are made in the manner I recommend, with the
hard leather foundation. The tip of the Cue should always
be well chalked and roughed , in order to prevent it from slip
ping off the face of the ball. What is called · French chalk ' is
thebest, being free from grit, and neither too hard nor too soft.
Some players like a Cue with a piece of mahogany or other
hard wood let into the Butt, to give it weight; but, generally
speaking, ash will of itself be found sufficiently weighty.
In selecting yourCue, be carefulto take oneneither too heavy
nor too light ; not too large in the hand, nor too small or flat
at the tip ; neither too long nor too short. It should not be
too stiff, for a Cue that wants elasticity will not make fine or
side strokes ; and it must be perfectly straight. The latter
quality is easily ascertained by looking along it from end to
end. A well-balanced Cue enables you to make your stroke
 CHAP. II.] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS, AND GAME.

with ease and certainty ; and in order that you may judge of
its right length for your height, place the Butt of your
Cue on the ground, and if its tip will just reach your chin, you
will have chosen properly. As to weight, and size of grip ,
experience and natural tact will guide in one respect,and your
own hand will inform you in the other. Some players like a
heavy Cue, others a light one; but the Cue with which most
execution can be done is one of moderate weight and good
balance, with the Butt or handle sufficiently small to enable
you to take a fair comfortable grip all round it.
The Mace is a hammer-headed Cue, thin and light in the
stem . It is now very little used , even by ladies. With a
Mace it is impossible to make high, low, or side strokes ; or,
in fact, to hit the ball in any other than a straightforward
manner.
Having chosen your Cue, the next thing is how to use it. Well,
you must take it in your hand — not too daintily — and hold it
about such a distance from the Butt that there will be nearly
the same weight in front ofyour hand as behind it. That is what
is called the balance of the cue. Much depends on this ; as, if
held too near the Butt or too close to the middle of its length,
your stroke will,ofnecessity ,be cramped and awkward . You
should neither grasp it too tightly ,nor hold it too loosely . If
you simply take it between your fingers and thumb, you will
· find that your stroke will be often deficient in form - or
strength,' as the term is. If,on the contrary, you hold it in
your hand as you would a club, your stroke will want elasticity
and freedom . In this as in other operations,moral and phy
sical, the medium course is best. But in the handling of the
10 THE BILLIARD BOOK . {CHAP. II.

Cue some slight variations will be found necessary in practice .

For a light, graceful Losing Hazard , a light clasp is sufficient ;
for a strong, heavy Winning Hazard , a hardish grip with the
entire palm and fingers is best. But for beginners a uniform
method of holding the Cue will be found most successful ;
and the safest rule, on the whole, is to grasp , but not tightly,
the Cue with the entire hand, and not with the tips of the
thumb and fingers only.

THE REST OR JIGGER.

The Rest is a long stick with a brass, wooden , or ivory top ;

and its use is to assist the player when he cannot reach the
ball he wishes to strike, but it should never be used except
when absolutely necessary. The tops of Rests are variously
constructed : some consisting of a simple cross-piece , and
others with one or more grooves on which the Cue is to rest.
Some of these are made with a high arch , to enable the
striker to pass over a ball that may lie in the way of his Cue .
The High Arch Rest is sometimes called the Spider, from
its long legs. It is used chiefly at the game of Pyramids, but
it is also required at Billiardswhen it is necessary to pass the
head of the Rest over a ball without disturbing its position.
The Rest is placed with one end on the table and the other
in the striker's hand. The player then rests the Cue on the
cross-piece or arch, and so strikes the ball.
When you employ the Rest, the tip of the Cue should be
brought within an inch or two of the Striker's-ball. The handle
of the Rest should be held firmly , and its head placed at such
C'HAP. II.] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS, AND GAME.

ANNST F
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12 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. II.

a distance from the Striker’s-ball as to allow him to have a

good view of every part of it. The Cue itself will require to
be held between the finger and thumb, and not grasped.

THE BUTT .

The Butt is a tipless Cue made broad at its base, which is

bevelled and leathered that it may lie flat on the Table, and
propel the ball in a straight line. It is used in pushing the
Striker's-ball from Baulk . The Half-butt is a long Cue properly
tipped , and also leathered at its base. It is used either as a
Butt or a Cue ; in which latter case a longer Rest ( called the
Half-rest) is employed in conjunction with it. The Long-butt
and-Rest consist of a Cue and Rest made long enough to
reach from end to end of the table .
In using the Butt, or in playing with the butt-end of your
Cue— as in making the baulk , or in playing at a ball in baulk ,
when your own ball is in hand, that is, off the Table, you
should place the thick end of the Butt close to the striking
ball, and push it onwards by one free impulse ; and not strike
the ball with it. It is important to recollect this.

THE MARKING -BOARD AND CUE -RACK .

Every properly -appointed Billiard-room is furnished with a

Marking-board and Cue-rack. The name of the latter ex
plains its use. The Marking-board is either round or oblong.
In the one case, it consists of a couple of discs, on one of which
Chap. II.] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS, AND GAME. 13

are painted figures from 1 to 50,and on the other figures from

1 to 12. The oblong Marking-board is made to record the
game by means of figures and a couple of sliding Markers.
For Pool a Marking-board is especially prepared with coloured
knobs and figures, to show the order of the players and the
several states of their game.

THE BALL .

Billiard -balls are made of the finest ivory , so turned that

the centre or core of the tooth is exactly in the centre of the
ball. If they are not so made,and are not perfect spheres,
they will not roll correctly. The regular match -balls are two
inches and a sixteenth in diameter. For Pool and Pyramids,
smaller Balls are generally used ; while for the French Cannon
Games, Balls from two-and -a -half to three inches in diameter
are made.

BILLIARD - TABLE MAKERS.

Messrs. Burroughes and Watts, of Soho Square, are con

sidered the best makers, and the fact of their having obtained
prize-medals at theGreat Exhibitions of 1851 and ’62, justifies
my giving them the first place .
Excellent Billiard-tables are also made by Messrs. Thurston ,
Catherine Street, Strand ; Mr. Hunt, Strand ; Mr. Palmer, High
Street,Southwark ; Messrs. Hopkins and Stevens,Mercer Street,
Long Acre ; Mr. Smith , Great Percy Street ; Mr.White, Broad
Street,Golden Square ; and Messrs. Stevens, Great Scotland
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ Chap. II. .

Yard , Charing Cross :— while Bagatelle-boards of good quality

may be obtained of Mr. Mechi, Regent Street; Messrs.
Parkin and Gotto, Oxford Street ; and Messrs. Asser and
Sherwin , Strand.

TECHNICAL TERMS USED IN BILLIARDS.

The following are the principal technical terms common to

Billiards:
Angles. — A ballbeing struck in the centre against any part
of the cushion, comes off the cushion at an angle correspond
ing to that at which it struck the cushion. This will be easily
understood by referring to figure 1, Diagram I. If the white
ball be struck in the centre from the left-hand spot in the
baulk , it will proceed to the top-cushion , and return by a
regular angle to the other spot at the right of the semicircle .
This is true of the balls in any and all parts of the table, and
after every return from the cushions. The whole science of
this theory is contained in a single phrase — the angle of
reflection is equal to the angle of incidence. On this fact
hinges all the theory of Billiards; whether you strike a
cushion or another ball with your own ball, the effect is
the same. Modifications of the angles, rendering them
more or less acute, are produced by two causes : the striking
of the ball with the Cue more or less on one or the other
1ore ON e

side — the Side-stroke, in fact, about which I shall have much

more to say ; and the degree of fulness with which the
Object-ball is struck by the player's ball. As one illustration
of this law is as good as ten thousand, I need in this place
CHAP. II.] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS , AND GAME. 15

do no more than direct the attention of the reader to the

figure ; merely observing, that however many reflections
may be made from the original line of incidence taken by a
fairly -struck ball, all the lines of reflection or return from the
cushion will be in directions counterpart to the first progress
of the ball after being struck with the Cue.
Baulk , Baulk Line, and Baulk Circle . - The line drawn
across the lower end of the table, about two-and -a -half feet
from the cushion, is the Baulk -line. A ball inside that line
is said to be in baulk , and cannot be played at by a player
whose ball is in hand. The Baulk -circle is a semicircle of
eleven inches radius, drawn from the centre of the Baulk -line,
and from it the player starts whenever his ball is in hand.
In the American and someother games, which will be explained
by-and-by, the semicircle is not used ; and the striker plays
from any place behind the Baulk -line.
A Line-ball is a ball half in and half out of the Baulk ,
resting exactly on the Baulk -line, and therefore is not
playable by the striker whose ball is in hand ; but if more
than one-half of the ball is beyond the line, then the player
may strike at any part of the ball.
Cannon (or Carambole).— The Cannon is made by striking
two balls successively with your own ball, either before or
after concussion with the cushion. The number of Cannons
to be made on the table is indefinite ; as, whenever there are
three balls on the table, there is always a possibility of the
player making a Cannon .
Doublet (or Double ).— This stroke is made by striking a
ball, either your own or the object-ball, across the table, and ,
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. II.

after the ball has traversed the table once or twice, making
a Cannon or Pocket Case 2 in Diagram I. is an illustration
of the Doublet. If the ball rebounds twice across the table
it is called a Double -double . The white ball is struck at
the red, passes over to the opposite cushion, and by a second
angle of reflection falls into the middle pocket ; or, by a
similar stroke, the Object-ball may be pocketed.
A Bricole Hazard. — Wherethe Doublet is made by striking
the cushion first, with the view of making a Cannon or
Hazard on the return of your ball, it is termed a Bricole,
which is the French word for · Back-stroke.
Hazards. — A Hazard is a stroke by which a ball is forced
into a pocket after striking another ball : a Winning Hazard
when the Object-ball is played into a pocket, and a Losing
Hazard when your own ball falls into a pocket after striking
another ball.
High Stroke, Low Stroke, Following Stroke, and Side Stroke
are so called from the part of the player's ball struck with
the point of the Cue. These and their effects will be more
fully explained in another chapter.
Jenny. — The Jenny is made by making a Losing Hazard in a
middle pocket,off a ball lying near to the cushion and pocket.
It is a very pretty and scientific stroke,and on the old tables
could be repeated several times. With the highly elastic modern
cushions this stroke is not very easy to make more than once .
Case 3 in Diagram I. is an illustration of the Jenny, to produce
which requires more or less side ' on the Striker's ball,
according to its position behind the Object-ball.
Miss. - The accidental or intentional missing of the Object
 DIAvka
Istrikeswing the lauAnofgianesulesof. thThe plTaaiblne line is the role of Incidence ,the
de tied lines the rulesof Reflexion 2 Anole doublet, without side strip,
3 min
CHAP. II. ] THE TABLE, INSTRUMENTS, AND GAME. 17
ball is termed a Miss. It may bemade either with the point
of the Cue or the Butt. Most rooms are provided with a
properly-made Butt for the giving of Misses or striking a ball
from the cushion ; but it is advisable to have your Cue pre
pared with a flat end, properly leathered.
Screw or Twist. — This stroke is made by striking your ball
below its centre, the effect of which is either to retard the
progress of the ball,make it stop dead at the point of concus
sion with the Object-ball, or return in the direction from which
it was struck. Of this, too, further explanation will be given .
Object Ball and Striker's Ball.— The striker's (or player's)
ball is the one immediately in front of his Cue, when he is
making his stroke, and which he strikes in order to make a
Hazard , Cannon, or Miss : the Object-ball is the ball aimed at
by the player, with his own ball.
Coup (or Coo ). — A ball that runs into a pocket, or goes
off the table, without touching either of the other balls.
These are all the technicalities that need particular ex .
planation .
18 THE BIL BOO . [ CHA . III .
LIA K P
RD

CHAPTER III.

GENERAL PRINCIPLES - HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS.

By different methods different men excel,

But where is he who always can play well ? — CHURCHILL. ( y. )

SO H E general principles of Billiards may be acquired ,

by reason of a certain number of regular and easily
ho understood axioms. The practice, however, is not
so easy, and every axiom should be illustrated by actual play
with Cue and Ball. Eye and hand should act in strict unison ;
and what the one sees to be possible, the other should be
practised to accomplish. In making your stroke, an instan
taneous glance will be sufficient - a clance that rises from the
Striker’s-ball to the Object-ball, and rests there while the stroke
is being made. As the rifleman looks at the target rather
than themuzzle of his piece when taking aim — as the cricketer
has his eye on the wicket at which he is about to bowl rather
than the ball in his hand — as the boy fixes his attention upon
the sparrow he wishes to hit, rather than the stone between
his fingers ; so the Billiard player must give his mind to the
Object-ball rather than to his own. With amateurs this is at
first a little troublesome ; but as “knowing ' is the halfway
house to doing,' he has half conquered his difficulties who
knows precisely what his difficulties are.
 CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS .

POSITION .
First, as to Position . — Stand easily with the knees unbent,
and the stoop from above the hips. A right-hand player
advances the left foot— a left-hand player his right. Keep
the head well up, and avoid all contortions of countenance.
In some situations— as when your ball is under the cushion , or
IS - as

when you are using the Rest — it will benecessary to vary the
position of your feet,as by spreading them apart, or by resting
one foot on a chair, and so on. But always endeavour so to
stand as to keep your head well above the centre of your
position ; in fact, to properly carry your body, the centre of
gravity must always be maintained with a certain degree of
nicety . In the two figures introduced on pp. 21, 22, you
have the proper positions for ordinary play.
Place aux dames ! In the figure on p. 20 we have the
posture a lady assumes when about to make her Hazard at
Billiards. The pose should be easy and natural, unrestrained
and graceful ; with the Cue held as nearly parallel to the
table as possible ; the Bridge-hand resting firmly , but not too
rigidly, on the table, and the Cue-hand so disposed as not to
interfere with its perfectly free action. The Cue should be
taken in the palm with a gentle grasp ; not held as you would
hold a whip or a stick , nor suspended between the fingers like
a fork or a fan. The stoop should be made from above, not
from below , the waist - the head inclined gently forward , and
the feet well planted on the floor at such a distance from the
table as is demanded by the nature of the stroke. All violence
or extravagance of gesture and position should be avoided.
c 2
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . (CHAP. III.

AN

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THE LADY'S POSITION.

CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE ILAZARDS.

POEITION OF THE PLAYER FOR AN ORDINARY HAZARD.

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Chap. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS.

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POSITION FOR A TOP HAZARD.

24 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP . III.

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CHAP.III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS.

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POSITION FOR A BACK HAZARD,

 THE BILLIARD BOOK. . [CHAP. III.

This bit of advice is, however, addressed to gentlemen — ladies

are always graceful !
The figure on p . 21 shows the gentleman 's position in
making his Hazard : knees unbent, body inclined a little
forward, Cue-hand well-down, Bridge-hand pressed on the
table not too hardly, and head nicely poised.
In making a hard stroke, instead of bending both knees, the
stride is widened (see fig. p . 22). This is done in order to
obtain a sufficiently horizontal position of the Cue.
It must be remembered , as before said (see p . 19), that for
all ordinary strokes the Cue is to be held horizontally , or
very nearly so . Sometimes, however, it is necessary — as when
a ball lies close to another or under a cushion — that the Cue
be raised in order that you may get its point to the top of
the ball (p . 23).
Again , the ball may lie close against a side-cushion , when ,
in order to avoid the use of the Rest, the right leg is to be
stretched out (p . 24 ).
Or, when such a position is not easily taken , the Cuemay be
placed behind the back (p. 25).

THE BRIDGE .

Next, as to the Bridge. — You have taken your Cue in your

right hand, and you now place your left hand on the table
behind the ball you wish to strike. The wrist and the tips of
all the fingers, close together, should touch the table, with the
knuckles well raised archwise, and the thumb easily but not
too much extended . This is the · Bridge ;' and between the
CHAP. III. ] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS. 27

thumb and forefinger you place the Cue, in taking aim before
you strike.

THE BRIDGE.

Sometimes it will be necessary to raise the hand to the very

tips of the fingers — as when you intend to strike a ball at its
top, or to avoid touching another
ball that lies close to your own.
This figure and the next show
theproper way in which the High
Bridge is made. Considerable
judgment is required to make the
High Bridge, a modification in
the manner of grasping of the
Cue being necessary according to
circumstances : and as, in every
game that is played , novel and
unexpected incidents arise , it is
well that the tyro should be pre
pared to meet them in the most
effective manner.
The amateur who means to
become a player should avoid
all cramped and awkward styles POSITION OF THE HANDS IN MAKING THE

of making his Bridge, - as by HIGH BRIDGE.

28 THE BILLIAR BOOK , [CHAP. III .
D
bending the fingers under the palm , having the Cue between
the second and third fingers, spreading the fingers wide
apart, extending the thumb at a right-angle with the fore
finger, thrusting up the thumb beyond the knuckles, laying
the hand too flat on the table, and so on . But in order
that my pupils may know not only what to do, but what .

POSITION OF THE HANDS IN MAKING THE HIGH BRIDGE.

to avoid , I give a few examples of bad Bridges — in the

following page .
For all ordinary strokes, the Bridge should be easy and
natural — the hand not too hardly pressed on the table,and the
fingers not too firmly set together. The distance between the
Bridge and the Striking-hand is important. It should neither
CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS. 29

be too long nor too short : about twenty -eight or thirty inches
is the space for most common strokes, though occasions will
arise when a much greater or lesser distance will be necessary.
Here, as in other partsof the game, the judgment of the player

EXAMPLES OF BAD AND AWKWARD WAYS OF MAKING THE BRIDGE .

must be exercised . It is impossible to provide a rule and

direction for every incident in Billiard-play ; something must
be left for tact, talent, and genius to accomplish , or why are
we blessed with intellectual faculties ?

THE STROKE.

Now , then, for the Stroke. - Look well at the ball you have
to strike with your Cue. Take a glance at the Striking-ball,suf
ficient to acquaint yourself with its exact position , and then
with your eye on the Object-ball draw back your hand and
 30 THE BILLI BOOK .
ARD [Chap. III .

make your Stroke. A very little practice will enable you to

do this with ease and certainty. In taking aim , point your Cue
to that part of the ball you wish to strike, and avoid all see
sawing of the Cue. Having once got the correct sight, make
your Stroke by a full, free , and direct blow ,without hesitation
and without fear. Do not draw your Cue-hand too far
back , nor vary the height of the tip of your Cue by raising
and depressing it before making your Stroke. Nothing is so
destructive of all chance of becoming a good player as uncer
tainty of execution . Another point to be considered, and
a highly important point too , in the making of your Stroke,
is the amount of force necessary. For all ordinary Winning
and Losing Hazards, the Stroke should be made with a free
forward sweep of the arm from the shoulder, and not merely
from the elbow .
In Billiards so much depends on freedom of execution , and
on full power of Cue, that the Stroke from the shoulder cannot
be too much insisted on. Of course there are many positions
of the balls in which this shoulder-power is not required ; but
it is absolutely necessary that everyone who wishes to become
a good player should avoid at starting all cramped and con
fined modes of play. Did you ever try your hand at amateur
carpentering ? If you have, you will have noticed how much
more effective is the sweep of the plane when it is made by a
jointmotion of the body and arm . So also , in the Shoulder
stroke, the whole body will sympathise with the full, free, for
ward drive of the arm . Good swordsmen and boxers will at
once understand the importance of trunk and hand acting in
concert. And then,again,much — verymuch — depends on the
CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS . 31

will of the player. If you make your Hazard with carelessness

or uncertainty, it will only succeed by accident; but if you
consider it well and set your mind on it, you willbe sure to
accomplish it — that is to say, if your aim be correct and your
blow certain and unhesitating. I do not want to lay too much
stress upon this subject ; but I may say ,at once and decidedly ,
that unless your mind is thoroughly satisfied that your hand
can carry out its intentions, you will never be a Billiard -player.
Hesitation , doubt, and fear are injurious to your chance of ex
cellence. If you mean to succeed , make up your mind to it,
and persevere until you do. There is a very old and respect
able saying, which tells us that what is worth doing at all is
worth doing well. Therefore, do not play at Billiards in a
careless dilettante style, but resolve to attain success, and
do not be content until you accomplish it.
In the large majority of cases the ball must be struck , and
not pushed . A moderate degree of strength will be found
ample for ordinary purposes. It is not necessary to use a
sledge-hammer to break a walnut. Too hard a stroke alters
the angle which the ball would naturally make if struck full
in its centre, while too soft a one does not, perhaps, enable
you to reach the Object-ball.
Different players have different ways of performing the very
simple action of striking the ball. Some play freely from the
shoulder , with a good and graceful sweep of the arm ; this is
the right way, and in the majority of cases will prove success
ful. Others hit the ball with a sudden jerk , which is the very
worst way in which a ball can be hit ; and others, again , push
at it. The only really proper method of striking your ball is
32 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. III.

to hit it fairly and smoothly without drawing back your hand

too much ,or allowing it to travel too far over the table after
the ball is struck. From four to six inches is sufficient for
the draw -back of the Cue-hand. Above all, endeavour to
keep your Cue as parallel to the table as you can — that is, in
са

all ordinary Strokes. Occasions will arise when you must

raise or depress your Cue-hand, in order to make the proper
Stroke.
You must also remember that Billiards can only be properly
played when the mind of the player is free from other cares.
The man with his head full of anxiety may certainly play at
Billiards, but he cannot play well ; the player who allows him
self to become too much excited with the game, will be very
likely to lose it ; and, as the angry man gets the worst of the
argument, he who gets out of temper with himself, his oppo
nent, or the marker, will stand but a poor chance against a
cool and clear-headed player.
The grand principle of Billiards is this — the angle of reflec
tion is always equal to the angle of incidence. Though , at
first sight, the sentence may look rather learned and abstruse ,
it is by no means difficult to comprehend. It is the main
theory of Billiards to be borne in mind ; the tyro will, how
ever, do well to remember that, like other theories, it is
subject to variation and modification under particular circum
stances. But, as I have already dwelt somewhat fully on this
subject, I may content myself by referring the inquiring
reader to pages 51 and 52, and to the Appendix, where the
matter is discussed at some length . For the scientific investi
gation contained in the latter as to the equality of the angles
CHAP. III.] IIOW TO MAKE HAZARDS . 33

of incidence and reflection, I am indebted to an eminent Cam

bridge mathematician .
Well, now we come to consider the way in which the Strokes
are to be made. Let me request your attention to the brief
instructions that follow . Once conquered , you will have gone
far on the road to good play ; neglected, and you will never
be a good player, though you play all your life.
All the Strokes made with the Cue are simple and easy
when once comprehended . A ball struck in the centre of its
circumference travels at a certain speed according to the
force of the blow ; struck above its centre, its rate of pro
gression is increased ; and struck below its centre, it goes more
test S
Grea est peed
t
Swif F!t| Ball

Centre
Re Stroke
ta
rd ke
yAs Stro
Sto
ppi
n Stroke

STRIKING -POINTS OF THE BALL .

slowly, stops at the point of concussion with another ball,

or returns to the place whence it started. The diagram ex
plains this more fully. In the above figure we have the
striking-points of the ball shown very clearly ; and in making
the Strokes I presume that theCue is directed above or below
the central horizontal line, but not much towards either side
of the perpendicular. If you strike your ball on either side,
_ Ꭰ .
 D
34 :
THE BILLIAR BOOK . [CHAP. III.

you make the Side-stroke, of which I shall have to say more

hereafter .
In making the Central Stroke the Cue must be held
straight to the centre of the ball, and struck fairly, either hard
or gently, according to the necessity that presents itself. The
Central Stroke is the one that is most ordinarily adopted , and
by it most of the common Hazards and Cannonsmay be made.
In playing at the cushion for Bricole,and in all cases in which
you wish to impart to the Object-ball a line of motion similar
to , or the counterpart of, that of your own ball, the Central
Stroke will be sufficient. The next figure will show you how
the Cue should be directed to make this stroke.

S3
CENTRAL STROKE, HIGH STROKE.

The High Stroke is made by hitting the ball above its

centre, and with the Cue raised a very little from the hori
zontal. In fact, the nearer you can keep your Cue parallel to
the table, the more successful will be your stroke. I have
already said that the velocity of the ball is much increased
by striking it above the centre. Themotion imparted to it
by the Cue is continued according to the original force of
the stroke, till it comes in contact with another ball or the
cushion - when it runs more or less straight in the direction
towards which it was struck .
The High Following Stroke is made by hitting your own
ball still higher from its centre. The hand and cue should
be made to flow , as it were, after the ball, and the effect of
CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS. 35

this action is to impart to the ball struck a similar mode of

progress, straight to the pocket or cushion. This is a very
useful stroke when you want to pocket your own and the
Object-ball in the same pocket, or to make a Cannon on to
a ball nearly in a line with your own and with the Object
ball. The Following Stroke, when properly made, causes
the Object-ball and the ball struck with the Cue to pro
gress in the same line. Very often , indeed , when you do
not intend it — as in Pool and Pyramids — your ball follows the
one struck instead of stopping short of the pocket. It is good
practice to place a red ball between the two middle pockets,
and, with your own ball near the side-cushion, endeavour to
make the Single and the Double Hazard. You will soon find
that you can accomplish either Hazard at will.

HIGH FOLLOWING STROKE. HIGH OBLIQUE STROKE .

The High Oblique Stroke. — When you hold your Cue high
across the centre of the ball, and strike down sharply, you
make what is called the High Oblique Stroke. The Cue
must be raised so as to command the top of the ball. The
effect of this stroke is to make the ball jump up from the
table, so as sometimes to force it over the top of a ball
that may lie in its line of progress. This is a very useful
stroke, and is occasionally employed to cannon on a distant
D 2
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. III.

ball. It was by a stroke of this kind that a German player

could make a Cannon, with his own ball on one table, and
two balls on another table. It is frequently practised by
betting-men, in order to catch flats, and it was by means of
this stroke that Jabez Hare used to jump his ball into a pocket
over another ball placed just in front of it without touching
the latter. It is called the Dip , and can only be acquired by
CO
considerable practice. Raise your bridge to the very tips of
the fingers, and make the stroke by a sudden “ job ' down
wards and forwards at the same instant, with a kind of
sudden rubbing action of the Cue's point. But you must be
careful not to tear the cloth ; for if you do, you will in
most public-roomsbe charged a guinea for your experiment.
For the method of pointing the Cue see the figure. The Cue
must be grasped firmly, but not too tightly , or you may fail
for want of freedom in the stroke. The philosophy of the
stroke is this : The ball is hit so high that the applied force
is more downwards than forwards,and the ball is forced to
roll on its centre backwards. The forward impetus is dimi
nished by the backward roll, and the applied force there
fore being principally in the downward direction, the elas
ticity of the ivory of which the ball is composed compels it to
bound or jump. With regard to the Cannon from one
table to another, there is no such great difficulty as at first
sight appears. Two balls are placed on one table, at a
proper angle for an easy Direct Cannon. The player then
places his own ball on the centre spot in the baulk of the
other table, takes his Cue between the fingers and thumb,
with the palm upward instead of downward as in ordinary
CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS.

strokes, and strikes the ball high and downwards to the table .
The ball then rises from the Cue's point and flies onward .
The great point is to strike the first ball on the distant table ;
and if you do that, the Cannon will follow almost as a matter
of course. I have made this strokemany times. It is a mere
matter of practice, and of no particular use except as a
curious exemplification of the power of Cue acquired by long
familiarity with the instrument. I know many players who
can make the stroke.
can
Almost any clever marker can show it
V

to you, when you get him in an exhibiting mood .

The Low Stroke. — This is made by striking your ball below
its centre ; and by just so much as you strike it nearer to the
table you retard its progress, till it either goes slower, stops,
or returns to your Cue. (See the figures for the position of
the Cue in the Low Stroke.) When you strike your ball at its
lowest point, you convert the Low Stroke into the Screw or

THE SCREW . LOW STROKE.

Twist. Let me explain the difference between the two strokes.

Inasmuch as the High Stroke, as I have already explained,
accelerates the motion of the ball, and the higher it is struck
the faster it goes, so does the Low Stroke retard the speed or
even reverse the course of the ball. Thus an ordinary Lou
Stroke has simply the effect of making the ball travel at a
slower rate than usual ; but a Screw , or Twist, causes it to be
retarded in its motion, to stop dead at the point of concussion
with another ball, or recoil on such concussion and return in
38 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. III.

the direction whence it was propelled. The reason for the

motion given to the ball by the Screw is that its mode of pro
gression is reversed ; and, instead of travelling by a series of
over-and-over revolutions, like a coach -wheel, it goes forward
Over

by a series of under-and-under revolutions, like the hoop

thrown from the hand in the common schoolboy trick .
Travelling thus, under and under, and at the same time for
ward, when it reaches the Object-ball its forward motion is
stopped , and the backward roll produces its natural effect and
causes it to return. Indeed, the Screw may be put on so
strongly that a ball may be projected from the baulk to the
centre of the table, and return without contact with another
ball, so soon as the forward motion given to it is exhausted .
But there is something more required in making the Screw
than simply striking your ball below its centre. The ball
must be struck low ,and, at the same time,with a peculiar and
sudden drawback of the hand,accompanied by an indescribable
turn of the wrist. Moreover, the point of the Cue must be
made to impinge upon the ball with a sharp twisting motion .
A Cue with a small round top,well chalked, is necessary for a
successful Screw .
The Screw is highly useful in a variety of cases — in the
making of Cannons, in Winning Hazards, & c., in getting out
of difficult situations, and making the best of a break. All
degrees of strength may be employed in the Screw. The Cue
must be held as nearly horizontally as is possible,regard being
had to the nature of the stroke.
The High Oblique Screw . — This curious and often very use
ful stroke is made by striking your ball on its top-side,
CHAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS.

with a downward rubbing action of the hand, accompanied

by a sort of half-turn of the wrist. The action is nearly
indescribable, but any good player can show you how to
make it. The ballmust be struck on the side that is towards
the player. If struck on the outer side, you will produce a
Reverse Screw .

=
THE DIP AND THE HIGH SCREW .

The effect of the High Screw is to cause the ball to jump a

little, and to twist back on reaching the Object-ball. It is a
very useful stroke when you wish to strike a ball near to your
own and cannon back on to a ball behind, or make a Hazard
in a near pocket. The method of placing the Cue is shown in
the figures. The Bridge must be raised by placing the tips of
the fingers on the table,and striking downwards with a firm
decided Twist. As an ounce of practice is worth a pound
or ever so many pounds— of theory, let me request my readers
to practise the strokes shown in Diagram II. They may all
be made without Side-stroke, and will be found very useful
to young players.
Case a , Diagram II., is the Central Stroke combined with
Division of the Object-ball, the angles of departure being equal
to each other. The angle is acute or obtuse according to the
quantity of theObject-ball covered by the Striking-ball ; or, in
40 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. III .

other words,in proportion to the amount of division employed

as explained in the next chapter.
Case b is a High Stroke used in making a Cannon. Here
the Object-ball is sent forward in the direction of the dotted
line, and the Striker's-ball proceeds to the other ball and
cannon
cannons. This is a stroke that very frequently occurs.
Case c is the High Following Stroke, in which both balls
proceed to the pocket, the one following the other in a direct
line. Of course a stroke of this kind may be made on any
part of the table. Such strokes occur in every game.
Case d is the High Oblique Stroke already explained . The
Object-ball is reached without touching the centre ball ; or the
centre ball is thrust aside and the Cannon follows.
Case e is the Dip, which , though rather difficult to show
in a diagram , will be clearly understood when tried on the
table. This may bemade by jumping over the centre ball, or
by passing round it. In the latter case, the Side-stroke must
be employed .
Case f exemplifies the Screw , just according to the quantity
of Screw put on your ball — which in this case is supposed to
be in or near the baulk . By it you may make either of the
Cannons shown, or square your ball into the pocket for the
Losing Hazard , as seen here by the straight line. The ball
struck will fly off in one or other of the angles shown by the
dotted lines, according to the side on which it is struck. In
all the cases here described, your own ball is supposed to be
struck in the centre, higher or lower as the case may be.
Case g is the High Oblique Screw , by which you make
either a back Cannon or a Pocket : - try both .
Illustrationsofvariousstrokes.
CHIAP. III.] HOW TO MAKE HAZARDS . 41

The Side Stroke requires a chapter for itself ; but before we

come to that it is necessary that I should show you how
strokes may be made by dividing the Object-ball ; that is, by
striking the Object-ball in such a way as that only part of it is
covered by the Striker's-ball.
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IV .

CHAPTER IV .
GENERAL PRINCIPLES - STRENGTHS - DIVIDING THE
OBJECT- BALL .

Like one or two contending in a prize

That thinks he hath done well in people's eyes,
Hearing applause . SHAKESPEARE .

S NOWLEDGE is power, says the time honoured

De to maxim ; and in few things is its truth more
Son apparent than in Billiards. Nearly every amateur
makes good strokes occasionally , without knowing how or
why, receives the applause of the bystanders, and feels that
he does not deserve it. Now , what he should do, if he
would become an adept at the game, is to study the reason
and philosophy of the various Hazards and Cannons which
present themselves in the course of his practice. Take a
private room for an hour or two, or go early to your club,
and knock about the balls at random ; and you will soon
discover, that on the Billiard -table certain effects follow cer
tain causes, as regularly and as definitively as in a mathe
matical problem . If you watch a first-rate player you will
see that his great object is to keep the balls before him ,
so that every stroke, when completed, shall leave another to
follow . This is the very perfection and science of Billiards,
CHAP. IV.) STRENGTHS - DIVIDING THE OBJECT-BALL. 43

only to be acquired by practice and study. The professional

players have most of them begun to play at an early age, and
they know , as it were by intuition , the effect of almost every
Hazard they make. But you, who were probably at school
or college, fitting yourselves for honourable and useful careers
when they were preparing their hands and eyes for excellence
in a simple pastime, cannot expect to rival them withoutmuch
practice. But you can acquire what they know very little
about— the science of the game; and as knowledge is power,
a little study will soon enable you to overtake them — if you
cannot, indeed, pass them — in the contest.

STRENGTHS.

One of the great secrets of success in Billiards is a thorough

knowledge of Strengths.' By this term I mean the power of
the Cue over theballby the force with which it is struck . And
with this is combined a knowledge of the greater or lesser
elasticity of the cushions. A fairly good player will be ena
bled to judge of the latter point by striking his ball once or
twice from end to end of the table. From good indiarubber
cushions, a ball struck moderately hard will traverse the table
three or four times from end to end. On some very fast
tables as many as eight passages up and down may be made ;
but the fastest tables are not always the best. Something
depends, also, on the temperature of the room . After a day's
play the cushions will be much more elastic than they were
in the morning, when they have been subjected to the cold
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. IV .

air of the preceding night. It is the custom , however, with

Markers who understand their business, to run a hot-water
iron round the cushions every morning as soon as they have
brushed the table. By this means the cushions are at once
brought into play ; and they remain in good playing condi
tion, after being thus treated , from morning to night, either in
winter or summer.
In order to accustom yourselfto the proper degree of strength
necessary to the making of certain strokes, and to familiarise
yourmind with the condition of the cushions, it will be as well
to begin with a single ball, and to strike it about the cushions
in various directions,marking the effect of each stroke. This
you may do by chalking the place at which your ball touches
the cushion after its first reflection, always remembering the
grand maxim that with a fairly-struck ball — that is, a ball
struck in the centre with moderate force — the angle of reflection
equals the angle of incidence. Look at the diagrams for illus
tration of this law .
But this maxim , like others that we know of, is capable of
a large amount of variation ; and the variation arises from the
manner in which your ball is struck, rather than from any
peculiarity in the cushions. Whatever be the strength or
elasticity of the cushions, their effect upon the ball is invariable.
What you can do once you can do a thousand times, so far as
they are concerned , provided always they are in good average
condition. Well, then, now that we know that the variation
in the line of reflection depends upon the force exerted by the
player, the next thing to learn is how to modify the strength of
your stroke, so as to produce, with something like certainty ,
 mod
era
te
Slow

ra
st
rast
od m
ra e
te

M. ots
--

DIAGRAM 111
Illustrations of strenoths.
CHAP. IV .] STRENGTHS - DIVIDING THE OBJECT-BALL. 45

the effects you wish . I will try and explain the how ' and the
“ why ' in a diagram .
In Diagram III. are shown the different effects produced by
the sameball played with different degrees of strength . Here
it will be seen, that, just according to the force given to the
ball in the original impetus, is its line of angle altered after
striking the cushion . Hence the importance of a strict
attention to Strengths.' The black line represents the course
of the ball before it strikes the cushion ; the thin line, the course
of the ball after its first projection ; and the dotted lines,
the direction taken after the ball's second and subsequent
reflection . The same rule holds good in all parts of the table ,
up, down, and across it ; but as it is impossible for me to state,
as it is also impossible for you to know ,the exact degree of force
necessary in order to produce the variations required, it will
be enough that I show you the effect consequenton the greater
or lesser employment of force in the making of a stroke. You
must remember, also , that the same law applies to balls struck
one against another — with this difference , that the effect of
more or less strength is shown in the directions taken by both
balls. All angles are modified by the degree of fulness with
which the Striking-ball and the Object-ball are struck . If both
be struck full, the angles taken by each after impact will be
equal to each other ; but if the point of contact bemore or less
on one or other side of the Object-ball, the angles will be more
or less acute, - always observing the fact,that a hard fast stroke
makes the angle of departure sharper than a soft slow one.
From all this — which may seem rather dry to beginners
you will perceive the importance of early acquiring a good
46 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IV .
knowledge of Strengths,' for much depends upon such know
ledge. I may say, however, that as a general rule, moderate
strength and delicate use of the Cue is more certain of execu
xecu

tion than mere force. The amateur generally strikes his ball
with more power than is necessary . From this cause he fre
quently retards his progress in the game; for, as he becomes
more proficient, he has to unlearn much that he has learned
- just as a child beginning to talk has to discard the jargon
of the nursery for words and sentences that convey not
merely sounds but ideas.
Examples of angles, so produced , might be multiplied to
infinity ; but in order to show you what may be done with a
properly-struck ball, I give another diagram , in illustration
of the law of incidence and reflection.
Diagram IV . presents a further illustration of Strengths
and Angles. Here you will see how a ball may be made to
strike all six cushions — marked 1 to 6 in the Diagram , in
order to show the direction of the ball and the striking-points.
A moderately high, hard Following-stroke will effect the
object. The examples shown may of course be modified, so
as to embrace a considerable variety of similar angles. A very
simple illustration of the same stroke is shown in Diagram V .
The ballmust be hit high , fairly in the centre of its width . If
not so struck, you will find that it will deflect sharply from the
first cushion and not return in the desired angle, in which
case it would be impossible to strike all the cushions.
This stroke is very common with betting-men,and therefore
it is as well that you should be made acquainted with it. The
whole secret is in knowing where to strike the first cushion ,
 te
s-lmoowdera
t
fas

DIA -PAM TV
Strengths and ungles
- -
DAFFAM V

Strengths and anoles

CHAP. IV . ] STRENGTHS - DIVIDING THE OBJECT-BALL . 47

and how to hit the ball. These conquered , nothing but a

sufficiently high and strong stroke is necessary. Billiards is an
excellent game, but, like other excellent things, it is apt to be
abused by unprincipled men. Whenever you meet a smart
looking fellow in a public-room , who offers wagers against
your making certain strokes which he can accomplish, treat
him with civility , but don't bet with him . Learn all you can
from him , but avoid giving him a chance of winning your
money . After a while, when he finds that he cannot get
half-a-crown out of you, he will, in very desperation , love of
play, or vanity, show you a few good strokes. This is the
almost invariable practice. Take any advice from him , but
don't bet. A game or two with him , for ' love,' will, perhaps,
not be bad practice. Hemay not be a “sharp,'butif hemake
his living by Billiards, he is not a man to know intimately . I
wish I could give you the names of some of these smart active
young gentlemen . They are very well known, and generally
carry a piece of chalk in their waistcoat-pockets, have a
favourite Cue, and call the Marker by his Christian name. Just
a word in your ear. These clever fellows are sometimes well
dressed, and pass for gentlemen . Indeed , some of them have
had university educations,and are even members of good clubs.
But, beyond a half-crown game or wager, they are dangerous.
I remember a remarkably good -looking, pleasant-spoken,
handsomely -dressed chevalier d'industrie, who was for years
reckoned simply as an excellent player. But it was observed
that only youngsters and new men played with him for high
stakes. He had the run of half-a-dozen clubs,and nobody had
anything to say against him . At last,one night Lord Nosoo
48 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [Chap. IV .

introduced him to the Billiard -room of the Megatherium ,where

I happened to be playing Pool. He took a ball and played
indifferently well, dividing a Pool now and then , and betting
an occasional halfcrown. When the Pool was over, somebody
challenged him for a gameat Billiards, and he played . I sat
down and looked on, saying nothing. Before the match was
over the chevalier had won more pounds than I should like
to name. He was certainly very lucky, and appeared always
to improve in his play as the gamewent against him and the
betting got higher. I was interested and watched intently, but
could discover nothing unfair. I noticed, however, that he
seldom or never played at the white ball, and that in each
game he had the spot-ball. But I thought nothing of that,
many players preferring to try a Hazard or Cannon off the
red rather than pocket an opponent's ball. And so the match
went on, till there were a good many members looking at the
game, and betting. At last, the chevalier's opponent, wishing
to leave the room for a little while,requested me to finish the
game for him . I consented , and played the next stroke with
the ball left on the table by my friend. I had hardly played
half-a-dozen strokes, when the secret of the chevalier's extra
ordinary success was revealed to me. He had changed theballs,
substituting for the true white ball one which was faulty in its
roll. This gave him a certain advantage over his opponent ;
and, being a good player, he won as often as he liked. Many
WOL

gentlemen will remember how we exposed the lucky cheva

lier that night. A few years afterwards I saw him playing in
a room in a Palais Royal hell. But he levanted directly he
caughtmy eye, and left his game unfinished .
CHAP. IV.] STRENGTHS— DIVIDING THE OBJECT- BALL . 49

It is astonishing how many tricks and disreputablemanæuvres

men who make a living by Billiards will have recourse to . On
another occasion I was present at a match in which a professor
gave a good many points to a talented amateur. The betting
was in favour of the amateur , but the professor won , princi
pally by a series of gentle Losing Hazards in the middle
pockets. Being a master of Strengths,' he was able, every
now and again , to place the red ball near a middle pocket,
when he invariably made a good break. On playing after
wards on the same table, I fancied that the middle pockets
drew ' somewhat — that is , the balls appeared to roll too
easily into them . I had the cushions removed ,and the cloth
lifted, when , as I suspected , I found that the slate had been
slightly scraped away, and lowered from the centre of the
table to each pocket. In this case the marker must have
been a party to the swindle . Albert Smith refers to this
incident in one of his pleasantly -written sketches.

THE DIVISION OF THE OBJECT-BALL .

Revenonsà nosmoutons. Having acquired a fair knowledge
of strengths, which will also include a good acquaintance with
angles, the next point is the Division of the Object-ball. By
this phrase is meant the amount of contact between the
ball struck with the Cue and the Object-ball. When the
Striker's-ball is hit full, and fairly in the centre, and struck
full against the Object-ball, it is called a full ball: when
about half the Object-ball is covered by the Striker’s-ball,
the stroke is called a half ball : when less than half the
50 THE BILLIA
RD BOOK . [CHAP. IV .

Object-ball is covered, it is a third ball, a quarter ball, an

eighth ball, or, a very fine ball.
Diagram VI. shows what I mean by the Division of the
Object-ball. The balls at a show - 1, a full ball ; 2, a three
quarter ball ; 3, a half ball ; 4 , a third ball ; 5 , a quarter
ball ; 6 , an eighth ball ; and 7, a very fine ball. The illus
trations b , c, d , in the same diagram , show different views
of the same balls.
It is very difficult to convey in words a precise explanation
of thismode of dividing the Object-ball,but I will try to make
myself as well understood as I can . When a full ball is
played, the centre of one ball strikes the centre of the other's
circumference, and the effect of the stroke is to make both
travel in precisely the same direction . This, therefore, is the
stroke to play when you want to drive the Object-ball full
and straight into a pocket. It is generally called a straight
ball. You must keep your Cue on a level with the centre of
your ball, and grasping the Cue firmly, but not too tightly ,
hit your ball fairly and freely , with sufficient strength to
make both balls travel to their destination.
A three-quarter ball will cause the balls to deflect from the
line of aim ; in every case the Object-ball leaves its position
in the direction of the line joining the centres of the balls,
and consequently — the less the contact the wider the angle
between the directions of the balls. This sentence in italics is,
in fact, nearly all that can be said on the matter, except
that the law refers to balls played with moderate strength .
If the stroke be slow and gentle, the angle will be propor
tionately narrow ; if sharp and hard , proportionately wide
 Kog0-
ooooo

1 2 3 4 5 6 7

DIAJRAM VI

Division of the Object Ball

C'HAP. IV.] STRENGTHS - DIVIDING THE OBJECT-BALL. 51

as I have already shown in Diagrams III. and IV . The

width of the angle may therefore be said to be governed by
two causes : first, the amount of impingement between the
Striker's-ball and the Object-ball ; and, secondly, the amount
of force exerted by the player. I might, to be sure, have
placed reference letters to each illustration of this law , but a
glance at the Diagram will, I fancy, be all that is required
by the reader to enable him to comprehend the theory here
advanced. In dividing the Object-ball, care must be taken
to hit your own ball full, and at the same time to strike the
Object-ball in such a manner that neither more nor less of
its surface is covered than will effect the purpose intended .
Of course this presumes great accuracy of eye,nicety of cal
culation, and delicacy of hand ; but after a while you will get
so accustomed to divide the Object-ball, that you may reckon.
almost with certainty upon effecting the end you desire. And
you will please to remember that success in Billiards depends
upon accuracy, nicety ,and delicacy.
But to illustrate the theory more fully :

E 2
 THÉ BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IV .

Suppose you strike the ball a at the cushion , or at another

ball at с, the line of reflection will be towards b. If you
now draw a line, cd, at right-angles to the line ecf, which
represents the cushion , you will find that the angle a cd is
equal to the angle dcb. This will serve as an illustration of
the law above enunciated , viz. : that the angles of reflection
and incidence equal each other.
The law applies with practical exactness to bodies one of
which ismoveable, and the other at rest. But where both are
equally moveable and elastic , a modification of the law takes
MOV

place, and a compound action results. This you will discern

in the course of your play ; and to counteract the departure
of the balls from the strict lines of incidence and reflec
tion, the judgment of the player must be exercised — every
angle being modified or altered by the force applied. It will
be understood that every stroke is capable of considerable
variation , according to the manner in which it is struck : if,
therefore, you do not immediately succeed in making the
Hazards or Cannons shown in the several diagrams, you must
try again and again, till you obtain the degree of division '
or side' required .
Presuming that you have succeeded in conquering so much
of the theory of Billiards as I have explained, and believing
that le premier pas is not so very difficult as to frighten
you, we will proceed to the next step — the grand one,
indeed , without which Billiards cannot be successfully played
on modern tables, with accomplished men for opponents : I
mean the - Side-stroke.'
 CHAPTER V .
GENERAL PRINCIPLES — THE SIDE -STROKE.

After the blow is given there is no manner of intelligence can alter its
effects. Be careful, therefore, how you give the blow . — BUTLER.

TAVOTNOTHING is so common as to hear young players talk

Be about the Side-stroke, and nothing is so likely
to as to find that they know little or nothing about
it. Put into the simplest possible language, the meaning
of the Side-stroke is this : if you strike a ball on its side it
will, while rolling forward on a horizontal axis, also spin on
a vertical axis towards the side on which it is struck. On
contact with another ball, or the cushion , the former will be
diminished or altogether stopped, according to the force of the
spin , while the latter is continued. The result of this is, that
the spin causes the ball to roll in the direction of this latter
rotation. It follows, from this, that you must always strikethe
ball on the side towards which you wish it to go. The proper
effect of the Side-stroke is not seen till after contact with the
Object-ball or cushion ; when , if the ball has been struck on its
right side, it will travel to the right ; if on its left side, to the
left. To increase the divergence you must putmore “ side on
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . (CIAP. V .

as it is termed ; which means that you must hit it more

towards the outside, and thus— according to the principle
already laid down as to the speed of the ball being increased
or diminished according to the nearness to and side of the
circumference at which it is struck - increase
crease
or diminish the
speed of its spin according to the angle you wish to make
after striking the Object-ball or cushion . In making a Side
stroke you must recollect that in hitting your ball very much
towards its side, the Cue is apt to slip ; to prevent which ,
the tip must be well chalked . Most players use a little Side
stroke without intending to do so , it being difficult always to
strike the ball exactly in the centre. With the really scientific
player, however, the quantity of side ' is a matter of the
nicest calculation . The progress of a ball struck on its side is
somewhat retarded ; but after contact with another ball or the
cushion , it flies off at a more or less sharp angle. I need
scarcely say, that if the ball be not absolutely true, you cannot
play with correctness,much less employ the “ side' with effect.
Immense care is taken by turners in producing thoroughly
true Billiard -balls ; and before they are sent out they are
tested by Messrs. Burroughes and Watts, and all other re
putable Billiard -table makers, with a machine by which the
very slightest variation in weight or exactness of roll is
instantly detected . I remember once playing with a noted
professional, and, greatly to my astonishment, I failed re
peatedly to make some not very difficult strokes. I could
not understand the reason, and I lost the game. In the fol
lowing game, however, we accidentally changed balls, when I
immediately discovered that the Spot-ball, with which I had
CHAP. V .] THE SIDE -STROKE . 55

previously played, was untrue. On attempting a slow twist my

opponent,who then had the Spot-ball,made the same discovery.
We had all the balls tested, and found that they were every ere

onemore or less imperfect. I looked at the name-plate on the

table, which was a new one, and I saw that the maker did
not stand in the first rank of tradesmen. Caveat emptor.
Never buy a Billiard -table or Billiard-balls of an inferior
maker.
Well, now that you know what the Side-stroke is, the next
thing to learn is how to make it.
It is not easy to strike a ball out of its centre and at the
same time strike it with exactness. The Cue, instead of being

POSITION OF CUE FOR SIDE POSITION OF CUE FOR REVERSE

STROKE. SIDE -STROKE.

held parallel to the intended direction of the ball, must be

held at an angle a little more or less acute to it, as in the
foregoing figure, where a represents the centre stroke, b and c
the right or left Side-strokes. This manner of holding the
Cue will also be found useful in making a Screw — though
not absolutely indispensable. The next figure shows the
way in which the Cue must be inclined across the ball when
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. V .

a very strong Reverse Side-stroke is required , — that is, when

it is intended that the ball on its return towards the player
shall diverge towards the side ; the dots on the ball showing
the striking-points.
These theories may appear difficult of proof: but how many
other generally -accepted theories are easy of demonstration ?
But, beside pointing the Cue and striking the ball at any
angle from its direct line of progression , the Side-stroke must
be accompanied by an imperceptible and indescribable twist of
the hand, and a rapid rub of the Cue's point upon the ball.
Care must be taken , too, not to strike at the ball with too
much force. Moderate, or rather slight, strength only is
necessary to make the Side-stroke to perfection . Calculate the
distance your ball has to travel before its impact with another
ball or the cushion, and put on the ‘ side' accordingly . If you
make too hard a stroke, you will defeat your object, and the
side ' will not take effect. Instead of the ball flying off at an
angle after contact, it will go straight on, just as if you had
struck it in the middle for an ordinary Winning Hazard .
Certainty of execution can only be attained by careful delivery
of your Cue, and a definite, though not too strong, stroke.
The whole theory of the Side-stroke lies in the fact that by it
the player is enabled to enlarge,as it were, the striking surface
of his ball.
To make the Side-stroke with ease and elégance,you should
stand well behind your ball and deliver your stroke with pre
cision . It is not easy to explain the reasons,much less the
practice for the proper playing of Side-strokes ; and , there
fore, I advise you to get a good player to show you how
Chap. V .] THE SIDE -STROKE.

to make it ; and then practise for a few hours on a private

table. No better mode of practising the Side-stroke can be
found than in playing your ball against the side-cushion from
the baulk , outside the line and bringing it back within the
line, first on one side and then on the other, by putting on
corresponding side.'
In the next figure I show this. Here we see how a ball
struck on its side will return into baulk on an angle more or

PLAYING A BALL OUT OF BAULKILLUSTRATING THE SIDE -STROKE .

less wide, according to the amount of strength and side'

employed. To such nicety can good players make this stroke,
that they can tell to within an inch where the ball struck will
stop. Practise this stroke till you can place your ball in any
part of the baulk you wish . An easy way is to place a ball on
the baulk -line, and play your own ball out of baulk and in
again ,without striking the ball on theline; or by endeavouring
to pocket your ball in the corner from the same kind of stroke.
Nextas to the quantity of side' requisite. — Here much must
be left to the judgment of the player ; but it must always
be remembered that the amount of side ' required is in
58 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. V .

proportion to the obtuseness of the angle. Suppose the ball

played to be divided into a number of imaginary parts, as in
the following figure. Here we have a diagram pretty nearly
representing a vertical section of a Billiard-ball - only that it
is flat instead of round. With the Side-stroke may be com
bined the High orthe Low -stroke, the Screw , or the Following
ball. The figure is therefore divided horizontally, and just as

a 6 l a

THE DIVIDED BALL ,

SHOWING THE VARIOUS PLACES AT WHICH IT MAY BE STRUCK FOR ' SIDE .'

the ball is struck above or below its centre, the stroke becomes
High or Low - - a Follow , or a Screw . At a a we get the extreme
centre side; at bb a moderate centre side ; at cc a still less
perceptible side and slight screw ; at dd a side and strong
screw. The same strokes above the horizontal line produce
exactly contrary effects, the pace of the ball being accelerated
according to the height at which it is struck . By this you
will immediately comprehend that greater or less deflection
of the ball after contact, will be produced in exact accordance
 CHAP. V . ) THE SIDE-STROKE. 59

with theamount of contactbetween ball and Cue. It may seem

to be putting a rather “ fine point upon it’ to insist on these
lines of side,' & c. ; but you will soon get so accustomed
to this manner of dividing the Striking-ball, as to be able to
point your Cue to any part of the ball's surface, and to
strike at that part with certainty and dexterity. The precise
amount of side' necessary for the accomplishment of any
defined object is only to be attained by actual practice. I can
no MOI
no more give you directions for the actual quantity of side '
requisite, than a writer on carpentry could tell a mechanic
precisely how much wood to plane off a board in order to
produce a perfectly smooth surface. On the Billiard-table
itself an expert will be able to show you more — in this
particular respect— in a couple of hours, than I could ,
writing in the library of the Megatherium , in a couple of
years.
But some things I can tell you of which the expert is most
probably ignorant. One of these things is, that the side is
never communicated ; that is to say, it is not imparted from the
Striking-ball to the Object-ball. I have stated this in my
previous works on Billiards, and have been contradicted by
more than one fine player ; but the fact is a fact, nevertheless.
What many players imagine to be communicated side ' is
nothing more than a peculiarly sharp division of the Object
ball. The Striker’s-ball flying off sharply from the ball it
strikes, sends the latter forward, or sideways occasionally , at
another sharp angle, because of the small quantity of the ball's
surface actually in contact.
Except the point of the Cue be round and fine, and
60 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [Chap. V .
properly chalked, you cannot make the Side- stroke. For
Pool-strokes, which are all Winning Hazards, a flat-tipped
Cue will do admirably ; but if you want to play Side
strokes to perfection , you must be careful to have a finely
tipped Cue.
And now , a few words by way of caution. The Side-stroke
is not to be employed without judgment. Where a stroke can
be made with the ordinary full blow , “ side' is unnecessary
and sometimes mischievous. Many young players are fond
of showing off with a Side-stroke, but it is sounder play to
make the stroke without “ side ' whenever it is practicable . .
As I have already said , all the strokes that can be made
by dividing the Object-ball and hitting the Striker's-ball full,
may be made with the Side-stroke, but the converse is not
true, for somestrokes that cannot be made by the division
of the Object-ball can be easily enough made by employing
“ side.' My advice to young players is to keep the Side-stroke
for the last occasions, and to endeavour to play the game in
a straightforward regular manner, reserving the side' for
really difficult strokes. But there is a method of employing
“ side' which is highly useful, and which may be brought into
play in almost every game on the table : I mean the combina
tion of side with the division of the Object-ball — the division
of both balls, in fact. Of course it is much more easy to divide
your own ball than the Object-ball, because the one is im
mediately under your eye, and the other is at some distance.
Butwhen you divide both balls, you arrive at a certainty and
precision of execution to be got at by no other process. But
more than this — you are not obliged to put on extreme side ,
 BALL

. .* BALL
&BALL
É BALL
+ BAL ! -

BALL - - - -

DIAGPAM VII
Losing hazards to bemade
by side-stroke,orby by dording.theobiect-ball,
both combined
Chap. V . ] TÌIE SIDE- STROKE.

or extreme division of the Object-ball ; a little of each will

easily be made, and success will crown your efforts.
The Side-stroke is most useful in Cannons, as we shall see
by-and-by. This chapter I conclude with the explanation of
the strokes shown in Diagram VII., which contains repre
sentations of some of the most obvious and frequently
presented Hazards. They may be made either by Dividing
the Object-ball, or by the Side-stroke. I should advise the
amateur to endeavour to make them first by one method and
then by the other. He can thus take his choice of diffi
culties — an easier thing in Billiards than in life.
In the Hazards shown in Diagram VII. it will be necessary to
strike your ball with a moderate degree of strength only . A
good deal depends too on the proper placing of the ball
on the baulk -line. Bymoving his ball on the baulk -line a little
to the right or left, the player can alter the angle described by
the three points severally occupied by the Striking-ball, the
Object-ball, and the pocket; and, by putting on “ side’ accord
ing to circumstances, make the Hazard intended . (See
Appendix .)
In Diagram VII. the Striker’s-ball is supposed to be in
baulk , but for convenience sake I have placed the balls on
the line instead of beneath it. Hazards of this description
occur in every game. They may be made either with or
without Side-stroke ; but the easier plan is to combine ‘ side '
with • division ,' and to give to your ball a slightly pushing or
flowing motion — not too hard , but still decided and firm . A
great mistake is made by beginners in hitting the ball too
forcibly ; for by this means they break through the natural
62 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. V .

angles taken by the ball if it is struck full in the centre , and

likewise destroy the proper effect of the side. I cannot too
often insist on a regular and calculated strength of the blow
given to the ball with the Cue. Gentle firmness is the
characteristic of a good player, effort and show that of
a tyro . (See Appendix , sec . 8, for the scientific argument
as to the theory of the Side-stroke.)
 03

CHAPTER VI.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES — DIVIDING BOTH BALLS.

Can you call to mind the night,

Now some years since, when, in this very room ,
Your judgment conquered me? Richelieu. (Qy.)

HAR ERFECTION in Billiards is attained by a careful

3 and judicious application of means to ends. Any
This set style of play must fail if the player be incapable
ofchanging his tactics according to the exigencies of his game.
It is useless to tell the tyro that such-and-such ways of striking
his ball lead to such-and -such results, if he possess not the
tact to accommodate his stroke to the necessities of the par
ICCOM

ticular case before him . Sometimes, for instance, a hard

stroke gains him a position he would have failed to attain by
a gentle one,and vice versâ. A little ‘ side,' judiciously applied ,
is often of the greatest use, but Side-stroke in the wrong place
is simply waste force. So also with the Screw and the
Following-stroke ; a ball struck too high or too low defeats
its own purpose, and the player is vexed at his wantof success.
I have seen some very good players utterly put out of conceit
of their game by failing to make some ordinary stroke that
looked almost too easy to miss. And more than once or twice
I have lost a game through sheer carelessness, the stroke
64 THE BILLIA [ CHAP. VI.
RD BOOK .

before me looking as if it were easier to make than to miss .

Of course these little accidents will happen with the best of
players occasionally, and I refer to them merely to remind
you that you cannot be careless at Billiards and at the same
time play well. I don 't believe in doing anything carelessly.
The man who plays at Billiards simply to pass away the time,
should, at any rate, play as well as he can ; it is a proper
compliment to pay his adversary .
Do not simply read my Billiard Book for amusement,but
take pains to carry my advice into practice. Having ex
plained the different sorts of strokes and the proper way to
make them , we come now to consider the best plan of bring
ing them into profitable employment.
The beginner having conquered the Screw , the Following
stroke,and the Side-stroke, and being able to Divide the Object
ball with some degree of accuracy, the next point is to com
bine his knowledge so as to be able to play the proper stroke
at the proper time. This it is that shows skill in Billiards;
in this we distinguish the player from the pretender — the
careful student from the mere tyro — the clever professor from
el
the careless amateur. Many young men Can
can make particular
Hazards with dexterity — some excelling in Losing Hazards,
some in Winning Hazards, and some in Cannons ; but it
son

requires tact and practice to know which stroke to make at

any particular time, and the best way of making it. Judg
ment and accuracy of calculation are indispensable to the
playing of a thoroughly good game. By a thoroughly good
game' I mean such a one as enables a man to hold his own
with the greatest chance of success against all-comers —
CHAP. VI.] DIVIDING BOTH BALLS. 65

regular professional players always excepted. Of course I do

not expect any gentleman -player to be able to contend on
equal terms with a Jonathan or a Roberts ; what I want to
impress upon my readers is the necessity and value of always
doing the best they can , and not being content with mere
mediocrity. It is useless to multiply diagrams if you do not
practise them on the table. Not, however, that you should
make yourselves slaves to Billiards - nothing would be much
more absurd than that. An hour's careful play daily will
make you a good player, especially if you are judicious in
choosing your adversaries, and matching yourself, by pre
ference, against good rather than bad players.
I will now proceed to explain that style of play which I
call the Division of both Balls,and which I recommend as the
safest way of making ordinary strokes.
Always remember the grand law in Billiards, that the
angles of incidence and reflection are equal to each other, when
you neither divide the Object-ball, nor put “ side ' on the ball
you strike with your Cue. When you do either of these,
you modify the law to a greater or less extent, and
render the angle of reflection narrower or wider than the
angle of incidence. Now , as extreme Division of the Object
ball is a matter of some uncertainty when the Object-ball is at
a distance from your own ball, and as the constant employ
ment ofmuch “ side ' leadsto irregular play , the true plan , and
that which will be found of most advantage in a generalway,
is to divide both balls. By this Imean the use of a little side '
and a little less division of the Object-ball than would
be necessary if you struck your ball full. To take an instance
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. VI.

of very common occurrence in every game of Billiards. The

Object-ball lies midway, or nearly so, between the middle and
the top pockets , and your ball is in hand or in baulk . If you
strike your ball full and hit the Object-ballaccurately, so as to
make the half of the one ball impinge upon the half of the
other ball, you will lodge each ball in opposite corner-pockets.
If you fail to play a true half-ball, you will probably miss
both Hazards. But the pair of breeches, as this stroke is
commonly called , may be easily made if you put a little
side on your own ball, and strike the Object-ball about half
a ball. Again , in making Losing Hazards in the middle
pockets from baulk , you put on a little “ side and divide
the Object-ball, and make the hazard easily. The quantity
of side must of course be determined by the acuteness or
obtuseness of the angle between the Object-ball and the
pocket. You must remember also to put on the right or left
side,' according as you wish your own to fall into the right
or left-hand pocket, and at the same time divide the Object
ball as exactly as you can.
By dividing both balls ' the player can arrive at a much
greater degree of accuracy than by the Side-stroke alone ,
or by the Division of the Object-ball. The observant player
will notice the course taken by the balls after impact, and
after a while will be able to judge pretty nearly as to the
amount of division required . The variations produced in
the angles by the dulness or liveliness of the cushions on
different tables may be corrected by means of more or
less division ; but I can give no rule for this. Every
player must exercise his own judgment in a matter of this
 DIAGRAM VIII
2.Winnino and losing hazard by douding both balls.'thebreeches) 2. Losing
hazards hi dinding both balls 3. Losing hazard by dividing both balls.
In each case the dark ball is the obiect-ball and the players ball is in baulk.
CHAP. VI.] DIVIDING BOTH BALLS.

kind, and as difficulties present themselves he must conquer

them as best he can . Much depends upon the delivery of the
Cue : many players hit the Striking-ball fullwhen they intended
to put on ‘ side,' and divide the wrong half of the Object-ball.
This arises from the see -saw or swing of the Cue before
striking the ball. You may point correctly at your ball,but
you must also strike it at the precise spot pointed at, or you
will fail to make the stroke you desired . Instant delivery is
of more consequence in dividing both balls,' or in making a
Side-stroke, than it is in merely striking your ball full at the
Object-ball for a Winning Hazard. An imperfect bridge or a
badly -chalked Cue will cause the failure of the easiest strokes,
and altogether defeat the intention of the player. When
therefore he wishes to divide both balls,'he should not only
see that he draws the imaginary lines of angle correctly,but he
should be careful to keep his bridge-hand in the proper position ,
and not play with too backward a swing of the Cue. There
is great difference between freedom of delivery and a cramped
action of the striking-hand. The principle to be borne in
mind in dividing both balls,' is that the lines of departure of
both balls after contact should correspond exactly . The Side
stroke alone, or the division of the Object-ball alone, will not
effect this, but by dividing both balls,' the proper direction
of motion of each ball after impact may be attained. You
must also employ a regulated degree of strength , according to
the distance you wish your ball to travel, and not strike hard
for a Hazard that needs only ordinary force, or play a gentle
stroke for a wide Hazard or Cannon. By dividing both balls'
you arrive at a, nearer approximation to the law as to the
F 2
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. VI.

angles of incidence and reflection being equal to each other

than by any other means ; for it is really more difficult to
strike your ball full in the centre, and cause it also to strike
the Object-ball full, than it is to strike your ball a little on
one or the other side, and at the same time to cause it to hit
the Object-ball by a half, quarter, or fine ball.
These remarks apply to Hazards all over the table, at all
degrees of strength , and at any distance between the ball
struck with theCue and the Object-ball. When once acquired ,
the dividing of both balls is not only easy of execution ,
but eminently practicable. Try it : place a couple of balls
in position , and make the stroke again and again, till you
can carry out the theory here advanced .
Of course the division of both balls ’ is as applicable to
Cannons as to Losing Hazards; while in the making of Winning
Hazards there is this advantage— that you may hole the ball
you strike at without the danger of running into the same or
any other pocket: a most decided advantage in the various
Pool-games .
With the division of both balls ' you can, at proper
strengths, combine the High or Low stroke at pleasure. This
gives a power at your Cue's end of accomplishing many
strokes that would otherwise be impossible.
In the regular Winning and Losing Hazard and Cannon game
- Billiards par excellence, as played in England and wherever
Englishmen go , all over the world — this method of playing
is peculiarly advantageous. By it you can make not only
the stroke you wish to make, but you may play with much
greater certainty of leaving your ball and the Object-ball in
 - -

LIAGEAM IX

Lusurid huzurdsimn the buullibitirwing both buils

 DIAGRAM X
asLosinetheproper
huazuntspositionofthecue
by dividing bothiscwen
halls. inThethevuurim
white istheplayersbull,
. in each
CHAP. VI.] DIVIDING BOTH BALLS.

favourable positions. And you know how useful it is to be able

to keep the balls before you and play without the Rest. If you
watch good players, you will see that they seldom need to use
the Rest. This, of course , arises from their accurate know
ledge of Strengths and the proper application of the Side
stroke.
Practise a few strokes with the division of the balls ' to
which I refer , and you will eventually understand the reason
for such division.' Indeed, I may say that the Side-stroke
of itself is deprived of half its power when the Object-ball is
struck full : but, combined with the Division of the Object
ball, the Side-stroke is a wonderful improvement upon the
style of play practised by our forefathers. In the hands of
a thorough adept, it is a most surprising agent. But I need
hardly say that, head and hand must work together.
In illustration of these remarks, examine the DiagramsVIII.
IX . and X ., which , however, are but examples of hundreds
of positions that continually present themselves in the course
of almost every game. It would be utterly impossible to
give diagrams for all, or even themajority of, Hazards on the
Billiard -table. They are as various as the “hands’ at Whist.
The cards and the balls are always cards and balls, no matter
how many the rubbers and the matches you play ; but their
combinations differ with every shuffle and deal of the one,
and every roll and break of the other. All that I can do,
is to show you such strokes as nearly approximate to those
which are common in the great majority of games, whether
played by amateurs or professionals.
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. VII.

CHAPTER VII .

GENERAL PRINCIPLES - LOSING HAZARDS.

By Losing Hazards we often win ; for in life, as in Billiards, what seems
a mischance often proves a stroke of good fortune.-- Proverbial Platitudes.

HRVOT20 man can become a really good player without

practice. But practice itself may be useless unless
D o it is properly directed. Before you rely on the
Side-stroke, get a thorough acquaintance with the principle of
the regular Hazards, made by Dividing the Object-ball, as
already explained.
In playing Losing Hazards, your object is to lodge your
own ball in a pocket after contact with the Object-ball — the
white or the red , as the case may be. The grand principle
to be observed is this — carefully notice the line between the
Object-ball and the pocket, and then place your own ball in
the baulk in such a position as will make the line between it
and the Object-ball correspond as nearly as possible to the line
between the latter and the pocket ; using asmuch strength as
will carry your ball into the pocket and leave the Object-ball
in the place you wish it to occupy for the next stroke. This
you do by Dividing the Object-ball in such a way as will
regulate the amount of impingement between it and your own
CHAP. VII.] LOSING HAZARDS.

ball. By thus drawing an imaginary line first, from your

Playing-ball to the Object-ball, and then from the latter to the
pocket, you will immediately get a reason for the Hazard.
And when you know the reason for a thing, you have
more than half conquered the means necessary for its ac
complishment.
The same rule will of course apply to Winning Hazards and
Cannons; though a rather differentmethod of play is neces
sary for them , as we shall presently see .
Losing Hazards should be made with moderate strength
sufficient to carry your ball well to the pocket after impact
on another ball, and to cause it to rebound from the
cushion should you fail to make the stroke. If you strike
your ball too hard, you alter the angle it would make
if struck with moderate strength ; and if too softly, you
leave a Hazard for your opponent if you miss the pocket.
Moreover, you are very likely, if you play with too much
violence, to drive the ball you aim at into baulk , even if
you make the Hazard you intended . But in these cases
very much must be left to the judgment of the player. He
must so regulate the strength of his stroke as to either drive
the Object-ball from its position to the cushion, so that it
rebounds into baulk and out again , or so that it does not
reach the baulk at all. This, of course, is to be regulated
by its position on the table. Much depends on the place
of the Object-ball after your stroke. The player who makes
a Losing Hazard and leaves the Object-ball in baulk deprives
himself of the chance of a second Hazard off that ball,
because, being in hand, he cannot play at a ball in baulk .
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. VII.

Losing Hazards are generally more useful to the player

than Winning Hazards. If a Winning Hazard is made with
the white ball, you have only two balls left on the table ;
and if made with the red ball, the latter has to be placed on
the spot — the position on the table in which it is least likely
to be useful,-- while in the former you may so calculate the
strength of your stroke as to be able to place the Object
ball in a favourable position for a second Hazard or a Cannon .
It is in this succession of strokes that the strength of good
play is to be found. The beginner is content to make a fairly
difficult Losing Hazard without reference to the stroke that is
to follow ; the adept, on the contrary , makes his Hazard
with the intention of leaving the balls open for another
stroke. What are called “good breaks,' — that is, a succession
of Hazards and Cannons-- are accomplished not so much by
any particular talent for Hazard-striking, as by a nice calcula
tion of the positions of the balls after each stroke. In this
way the professional player is able to make thirty or forty off
the balls whenever they lie in a favourable position for a
break — as, for instance, when the red is at an easy angle with
either of the top or side pockets. He then plays from baulk ,
and makes a succession of Losing Hazards, sometimes in the
same pocket ; or if he finds the angle getting too wide for the
sa

one pocket, he shifts the position of his own ball on the

Baulk , and loses it in the other. In this way he may make a
dozen or more Hazards off the red . It is a very common
thing for a skilful player to make twenty Hazards from Baulk
off two balls favourably placed — say the red at an angle with
a top corner-pocket,and the white lying square with a middle
 0 0

DIAGRAM XI

Losinu Hazardswithout Side-stroke.

CHAP. VII. ] LOSING HAZARDS.

pocket, as in Diagram XIX . I have known players to wager

upon scoring thirty off two balls so placed ; and there are
very few games in which the balls will not occasionally fall in
one or other of these positions. When they do, the player
should try all he can to make a good break, for in that lies the
main secret of success. Luck will assist a player sometimes,
but it will never stand a chance against calculation and skill.
Take an instance of very common occurrence — the Object
ball a little below the middle pocket, towards the centre of
the table, and the player's ball in hand. This stroke is shown
in Diagram XI. Now , the intention of the player is to make
a Losing Hazard in the centre pocket and drive the Object-ball
to the top-cushion, so as to leave another Hazard off it in the
opposite pocket after its rebound. Everything in this case
depends upon the strength of his stroke,and the position of his
own ball. If the striker's ball is placed too near the centre
of the baulk , the angle taken by the Object-ball will be too
narrow to allow him to make another easy Hazard in the same
or opposite pocket on its rebound from the cushion . But
by putting his ball in a proper position within the baulk,
he can nearly always secure a second Hazard . For sugges
tions as to the way in which this is to be accomplished ,
see Appendix B . A good player with a thorough command
over the strength of his stroke can make an almost in
definite number of Hazards from a ball properly placed . I
have myself frequently scored the game of fifty from a centre
Hazard off the red . The way to do this is — first, to make
sure of your Losing Hazard . This is done by a half-ball on
the red . Played with moderate strength , you will pocket
74 THE BIL BOO . [CHAP . VII .
LIA K
RD
your own ball,and drive the Object-ball to the top -cushion
in a direction corresponding to the first line — that between
your ball and it. The Object-ball will then return in the
direction shown in the dotted lines (Diagram XI.) more
or less towards the side-cushion, according to the position
of the Striking-ball and the amount of division employed.
I once saw Roberts score thirty-seven Hazards off a red ball
so placed , and then when the red had failed to come down
to the centre of the table, finish the break with a pair of
breeches in the end pockets — in all 117 off a single ball !
This is, of course, a very extreme case.
In my day Kentfield — or Jonathan , as he is called — was
the great player. His forte lay rather in Cannons and gentle
Hazards than in tours de force. The difference between his
play and that of Roberts, Bowles, Hughes, or any of the great
cracks’ of these times, is that he makes very little use of
the Side-stroke, while they employ it for almost every Hazard .
For a beginner, a judicious use of both “ side ' and division '
is best and safest. As I have already observed, the most
successful plan is to begin your practice without side.'
When you can make all ordinary Hazards by the simple
Division of the Object-ball, then — and not till then you may
try the Side-stroke.
In Diagrams XII. and XIII. I show a number of such
Hazards as occur in every game. The diagrams sufficiently
explain themselves, and need very little said about them ,
except this — they occur in similar positions all over the
table. Therefore a similar method of playing at them will
produce like results.
 DIAGRAM XII
Ivsinc Hazardswithout Side stroke.
 *

| 0 0 0 0 0 0

limit. An X
Losing Hazards without Side stroke
CHAP. VII.] LOSING HAZARDS.

The Hazards at the baulk-end of the table in Diagram XIII.

require to be made with judgment — not to be struck too
hard nor too gently, but with that ease and certainty which
distinguish the player from the tyro. Let the stroke in
each case be made in a full free style from the shoulder,
with sufficient force to bring the ball played at out of the
baulk — dividing the ball in each case in the proportion
shown — a half-ball, quarter-ball, & c., as the case may be.
So also with the narrow Hazard in the baulk in Diagram
XIII. Play with enough force to bring the Object-ball out
of baulk ; but at the same time make sure of the Hazard.
Itmay happen that it will be better for your game to lodge
the red in the pocket, than to make a Losing Hazard . If it
should be so , play hard enough to carry your own ball up
the table, so as to leave another Hazard off the red on the
spot.
When the red is close in the corner, and you wish to
pocket yourself off it, you must play on to the cushion ,and
when your ball touches the red you will make the Hazard .
This is a very pretty stroke,which occurs frequently in each
corner of the table .
In Diagram XV . I show Losing Hazards ( 1 ) from off the red
ball on the spot. The various positions of the white ball will
suggest a different mode of treatment for each stroke : as the
side ' widens the pocket, so you must put on a little more
or a little less, as the angle widens or narrows. There is
nothing but practice for strokes like this.
The pretty Hazard (2 ) at the bottom of Diagram XIV .
often occurs. Both balls are on the baulk -line— the red just
76 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. VII .

outside, so as to be in play, and the Striker's-ball so placed

as, while strictly in baulk, and not actually touching the
other ball, to be sufficiently close to enable you to push it
it into the corner pocket. You must put on a very little
“ side; ' and, with a decided, but exceedingly gentle, push
directly towards the pocket, make the Hazard. A little
practice will enable you to make this stroke with such
certainty as to scarcely move the red ball. And in this way
the stroke may be repeated for a dozen or more times.
LI

The Hazard marked 3 in this diagram is easy ; it requires

very little • side. Most players would make a Winning Hazard
of this stroke ; but whenever you can convert a Winning into
a Losing Hazard, you gain a great advantage, for the Object
ball is generally left in a better position for another Hazard
or Cannon than when it has to be spotted. Or, you may put
on the counter or reverse side' for a Hazard like this. In
all such positions the theory is to make your own ball
run straight for the pocket, and this you do by increasing
or decreasing the angle as occasion requires.
Diagram XV., Case 1, shows a Hazard that very commonly
occurs. Here again a little side ’ and • division ’ will greatly
assist you. Keep the point of your Cue well down for this
stroke. The lines from the several balls to the red will show
you the points of contact and the methods of play.
Case 2 in the same Diagram is a pretty stroke, in which
“ side ' and 'screw ’are to be judiciously combined. Donot play
too hard , butmake the screw ' decidedly. Be careful not to
bring your ball too far back , or it will curl over to the side
cushion instead ofmaking the pocket, as you want it to do.
 TIAGLAM XIV

1.Losunu Hazards from the Sport-bali 2 iosing liazard with Side stroke
3. Losing Hazard
- -- - - - - -
 L 'AGHAM XV
Losing Hazardswith Side-stroke
I Durision of Obiect-ball 2 Screw . 3 obrest-ball hit full and sue
puton Striker's ball.
CHAP. VII.] LOSING HAZARDS . 77

Case 3 is another illustration of the side' judiciously applied.

Here you must put on the in side,and strike the Object-ball
full. Your ball will twist to the cushion , hug it, and roll
slowly into the corner pocket. A nicely -chalked fine-pointed
Cue, well in hand, is required for this stroke. Many players
make this Hazard with a pushing action , and a very slight
turn of the wrist.
Of course, I might multiply diagrams of Losing Hazards ;
but those I have shown will be sufficient to indicate to the
beginner the way in which he should play. In my next
chapter I shall say something about Winning Hazards; after
which we may go on to the consideration of Cannons and
Cramp Strokes.
Just one word more. In making Losing Hazards — I repeat
myself, but no matter _ hold your Cue rather lightly than
tightly, and keep it as parallel to the table as you can,
consistently with the nature of the stroke and the position
of the balls. When you play at a ball close under the
cushion, shorten your Cue and push rather than strike. By
this means you will often make a Hazard that would other
wise, in all probability,be missed .
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. VIII .

CHAPTER VIII.
GENERAL PRINCIPLES — WINNING HAZARDS.

Upon the Cue his willing hand was laid ;

Firm was the grasp with which the stroke he played ;
Fearless the pulse, true, steady was the ain ,
That, well directed, won for him the game. Byron. (Qy.)

SVOZOTHING appears to the amateur, when watching

the play of a thorough master,more easy to make
20 than a Straight Winning Hazard . And the stroke
is really not difficult when you know how to make it. All
that you have to do is to strike your own ball firmly in the
centre, in such a manner as to send the Object-ball straight to
the pocket. To accomplish this, you must strike your ball
rather below than above its horizontal centre, at the same time
being careful not to strike it on the side. The Side-stroke is
seldom much needed for Winning Hazards. When a straight
Winning Hazard is to be made, the impact between the two
balls should be full and perfect, the centre of the one striking
that of the other. The reason why you strike your own ball
rather low is, that you may determine pretty nearly upon
the place at which you wish it to stop . Of course, you will
strike it rather high , with a ' following ' motion, if you want
CHAP. VIII.] WINNING HAZARDS.

it to run into the pocket after the Object-ball. Much , too,

depends upon the strength of your stroke. When the Object
ball is at a good distance from the pocket, the contact should
be sharp and sudden ; when it is near the pocket, the stroke
may be made more gently. In some situations, you will
require to simply touch the Object-ball in order to roll it
quietly into the pocket ; in others, a sharp stroke will be
necessary : but in almost every case you must depend rather
on the Division of the Object-ball than on the Side-stroke.
Of the two methods ofmaking the Winning Hazard , the Stop
ball — that is, a ball struck rather low and sharply — will be
generally found more useful than the Following-ball.
The Straight Hazard will occur in all parts of the table :
and to make it properly, the same description of stroke will
suffice. If your own ball be in a line with the Object-ball,
and the latter with the pocket, strike with a rather low
drawback ; and if you are pretty close to the pocket, and
wish to avoid running in yourself, put on the least possible
• side.' This, indeed , you will in most cases do without know
ing it. When you want to hole the red in a baulk -pocket,
strike with sufficient strength to carry your ball up the table,
so as to leave another Hazard off the spot.'
Winning Hazards in the middle pockets require to be made
with much nicety when the Object-ball is not in a direct line.
And this brings us at once to an important point : all Winning
Hazards, whatever the relative positions of the Object-ball
and the pocket, may be converted into Straight Hazards if
they are properly struck . How ? Nothing more easy when
you know the reason for the stroke. To hole a ball at an
 ARD BOOK .
80 THE BILLI [CHAP . VIII.

angle with a pocket, you must divide it by just so much as is

necessary
nece to make it run straight to the pocket : in other
words, strike your ball so that the line joining the centres of
the balls when in contact may, if produced , pass through the
centre of the pocket. By striking a three-quarter, half,
quarter, or eighth ball, you may pocket it from almost any
part of the table, if it be a few inches distant from the
cushion. When the Object-ball is not in a direct line with
the pocket, you must make the stroke a straight one by
hitting it on one or the other side according to circumstances.
By proper division of the Object-ball you may drive it in any
direction you choose ; and if, at the same time, you regulate
the strength and height of your stroke, you may always
calculate, with more or less accuracy, upon the place at
which your own ball ought to stop.
Just as you strike your ball high or low, you accelerate or
retard its progress after contact with the Object-ball. The
great art is, first to make the Winning Hazard, and next to
regulate your stroke, so as to determine the stopping-place
of your ball. This, indeed, is the grand secret of Pool
playing. In DiagramsXVI. and XVII. I have given a variety
of the most ordinary Winning Hazards. Place the balls in
the positions indicated , and try and try again till you succeed
ICCO

in making them .
The Stop-stroke ( Diagram XVII. Case 1), by which you
can make your ball stop dead at the place of contact with
the Object-ball, is one of the most useful on the table. It
is made with a rather low sudden drawback , the point of
the Cue rubbing downwards, as it were, at the instant of
striking . In the hands of a good player this is an elegant
 DIAGRAM XVI
Winning Hazards
1.Finewinnung Hazard 2 End ten stroke 3 centre ten stroke + Spotstroke
The linesof Case I show the variousways in which this strokemay bemade,
according to the quantity of side or dn uswn emplened
 DIAGRAM XVI

Winning Hazards
1.Murring Hazard and Strikers ball to stop in the carcle 2 Winning Hazard's
without Side stroke.The position of the player varied with the stroke .
3. Wiring Hazards by dividing the Ibiect ball .
CHAP. VIII.) WINNING HAZARDS . 81

stroke, particularly useful in Pool or Pyramids. I have won

scores of games with it, though it requires long practice, and
great freedom of Cue to make it properly. The best way
for the amateur is to begin with two balls close together,
increasing the distance gradually till he can make the Winning
Hazard in any pocket he aims at, and stop his own ball in
a circle no larger than the crown of his hat.
The Centre Ten -stroke (Diagram XVI. Case 3 ) is another
highly useful one. This is made with a good firm drawback.
You play on the red and lodge it in the one pocket, and
your ball screws back upon the white, makes the Cannon,and
follows it into the other middle pocket. A little practice will
soon enable you to make a similar stroke in the end pockets
from one corner to the other,on either side. To be able to
do this, you must have great command of Cue, and no little
nerve,
ne
as the slightest deviation or inaccuracy in the stroke
( 1 LUCU

will cause its failure.

To make Winning Hazards with grace and certainty, the
Cue must be grasped , and not held merely between the
fingers and thumb. But very great force is not necessary ,
or you will defeat your own intentions. In fact, the whole
science of Billiards depends upon a nice adaptation of means
eans

to ends. Some strokes require a touch so gentle as hardly to

be perceptible ; others need a rather firm heavy blow .
The Slow -screw is made with a decided twist, your ball
struck low , with the rubbing-down action and the turn of the
wrist I have already mentioned . As this motion of the wrist
is not to be described on paper, get some good player to show
you how it is done.
 82 . THE BILLIARD BOOK. . [CHAP. VIII.
· The Spot-siroke (Diagram XVI. Case 4 ) is another of those
popular and successful Hazards so much practised by good
players. Roberts, Kentfield , Hughes, Davis, and other first-rates ,
are particularly happy in this excellent Hazard. There are
two ways of making it ; the choice of which must be left to the
player, the position of the balls,and the exigency of the game.
When the red is on the spot, and your own ball is directly
behind it, in an exactly straight line with the end pocket,you
may play a low drawback screw , which will lodge the Object
ball in the pocket and leave your own a few inches behind the
spot. In this way the Winning Hazard may be repeated
several times in the same pocket. But beware of stopping
your ball too near to , or on, the spot ; as, in that case, the red
will have to be spotted in the centre, and your break will be
at an end. In the American Game, when the red is placed on
the lower spot, and you have four pockets to play into, the
drawback will be found very appropriate ; but in the English
Game the better way to make this stroke is by putting on a
little side and a little division , so as to drop the red gently
into the corner pocket, and leave your own ball in such a
position as to give you the Hazard in the other corner. And
thus alternating your stroke, you may make several successive
Hazards. I have frequently made sixteen , twenty , or more Ore

Hazards in this way. And , by the way, I have seen Roberts ,

Bowles, and othersmake many more. It is a highly effective
stroke, and a very great favourite of mine. Once get the balls
into the proper position for it, and it is only a matter of care,
judgment, and calculation, as to what extent you may carry
your break . But do not imagine that it is easy. You must
practise frequently before you can make the Spot-stroke half a
 1) LAGPAM XVIII
Winning Hazards.
Player's ball in baulk ,to be struck full and the Obiect-ball divided
 - - - -- Fu PALI

ERST
EN

LIAGRAM XIX
Player's balli n baulk Winning
. Hazards
Thedirection of the . shows theposition
au
of the Striker
CHAP . VIII.] WINNING HAZARDS. 83

dozen times consecutively . But when you have once acquired

the knack of striking the red, and properly placing your own
ball, the rest is simply an exhibition of skill derived from
practice and study.
Now , Imight give you fifty diagramsof Winning Hazards,
but exemplifications of their principle will be sufficient to
enable the tyro to make them himself. As a rule, it is well
always to use sufficient strength to bring your own ball away
from the pocket, so that in case you fail with the Hazard , you
may not leave an easy stroke for your opponent. When you
have made the Spot-stroke several times, it will often happen
that the balls will be close together, in a line with a corner
pocket. In such a case, if you think a repetition of the
stroke unlikely, finish with a Following-ball and score six ; or
try for the Winning Hazard with force enough to send your
ball into baulk , so that you leave a difficult Hazard for your
opponent.
The Side-twist — said to have been discovered by one Carr,
a marker to Mr. Bartley, Billiard-table keeper of Bath , some
half-century ago — will be found most usefulin the making of
Winning Hazards, especially those of a difficult character. In
the Pool-games it is found particularly useful : as also is the
*counter-side,' which causes your ball to turn in the opposite
direction to that which it would have taken under ordinary
circumstances.
In Diagrams XVIII. XIX . XX. XXI. and XXII. I give
other examples of Winning Hazards. These sufficiently
explain themselves — the lines from the Striker’s-ball to the
Object-ball in each case showing the point of contact. The
G 2
84 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. VIII

only rule to determine the exact spot of the Object-ball re

quired to be struck for a winning Hazard is this : — draw
a line from the centre of the ball and the pocket parallel to
the plane of the table. The point where this line produced
meets the surface of the ball, is the spot required. In most
instances the position of the Cue is shown in the diagram ;
this will better inform the amateur than almost any amount
of written instruction . Indeed, the way in which the Cue is
pointed to the ball to be struck almost invariably governs the
nature of the Hazard. Care should therefore be taken to
point the Cue correctly, and to make the stroke in exact
accordance with the striker's intention. Some players arrive
quickly at the knowledge and knack required ; others point
the Cue rightly,and then immediately fail in the stroke. This
arises from a deviation between the pointing and the striking,
in consequence of the hand being raised in drawing back the
Cue. The hand should be kept nearly parallel to the table, or
the resulting stroke will be a failure. I have noticed that very
tall men generally strike too low , from the fact that they do
not sufficiently bend to their work. When once the habit is
acquired of striking the ball in a particular way, it is difficult
to alter it ; therefore, get into the habit of striking properly .
In the cases shown in Diagrams XVIII. to XXII., inclusive,
the putting on of ' side ' to any great extent is unnecessary .
The Hazards in Diagram XXII. are explained by the
directions given at the foot of the figure.
The Doublet Winning Hazard in Diagram XXI. is an
example of doublets which occur all over the table. Like
that in Diagram I., it is easy of execution if the Striker’s-ball
be hit full, and the Object-balldivided .
 I TARAM XX
Winning Hazards
The white is the player's ball.
 V
E
R
U
M

DIAGRAM XXI
DIAGRAM XXI

7.Winning liazaris- players ball in bulk . 2.Doublet winning Hazard .

3.Winning Hazards in middle pocket .
 85

CHAPTER IX .

GENERAL PRINCIPLES — CANNONS.

Some praise at morning what they blame at night,

And swear the cushion-cannon play was right;
While others for the flukes abuse the board,
And curse their luck when matched against a lord . — Pope. (Qy.)

Min N the days of list-cushions, which , by the way, was a

CD good many years ago, before you, dear player, knew
yes anything about Cues or Hazards, and certainly before
I can remember, though some of my old friends of the
Megatherium tell me they recollect them in the days when
Jonathan was the player and teacher par excellence, and
Brighton was honoured and patronised by the “ finest gentle
man in Europe ' - in the days of exclusive play on old wooden
boards, and heavy bets on very slow and tedious games
Billiardswas mainly a game of Cannons. And that Billiard
players really did know something about Cannonsin that ancient
period, Kentfield 's work is sufficient proof. But our fore
fathers knew little or nothing about the “ Spot-stroke,' or the
* Slow -screw ,' or the “ Side-stroke;' and though they could
make Cannons from the cushions, and all round
lon OU the table,'
86 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IX .

they must have been poor players compared to our modern

* cracks. I fancy that the very best of them would have stood
but little chance against a Roberts, a Tabley, or a Hughes.
Cannons neatly and dexterously made are admirable aids to
a game. The French are great at this. In France they
usually play upon a small board , with three-inch Balls and
wide-tipped Cues, which render the Cannons easy to attain !
Foreigners do not play particularly well at the English Game,
and even at Cannons they make but a poor figure with two
and-a -quarter-inch Balls. I have played in Paris and else
where with Frenchmen , but I never met any who thoroughly
understood the science of Billiards, or played upon any well
defined system .
Well, then , the question is — how to cannon successfully ?
This problem is identical in many respects with that of making
Losing Hazards, for which I refer you to Appendix B . I
might exemplify my theory in a thousand ways ; but as I
cannot present a tithe of that number of diagrams, I must
content myself with giving suggestions and leaving their
application in the hands of the player. In Cannons, a
clever “ division of both balls ’ will be found of immense
use. For you must remember that every Cannon is sit
inches wide ; that is to say, that the extreme touching
points between the Striker's-ball and the third ball of the
Cannon may vary to that distance — two inches for each ball.
Place three balls on the table and exemplify this fact for
yourselves ; don 't take my word for a single law , but in
every case prove it on the Billiard Table. And here I may
say, once for all, that every diagram here inserted, and all
 OOOOO.

DIAGRAM XXII

Winning Hazards .
1. Fine ball; 2. # ball; 3. 4 ball: 4.tball , 5. tball , 6 . tball 7. # ball ,
8 4 ball ; 9 full ball, 10 .5 ball ; 11. 4 ball Plaver must stand well
behind his ball for each Hazard
- -， - ག —
CHAP. IX .] CANYONS 87

the examples here adduced, have been tried and proved before
they were made public.
In Cushion Cannons we come to a direct and never-failing
proof of the law , that the ' angle of reflection equals the angle
of incidence' ; and, however many times you may cause your
own ball to reflect from the cushion after the first ball is struck,
the reflection will in every case correspond to the direction
taken after impact with the Object-ball — always, of course ,
allowing for the quantity of side' given to your ball, for the
amount of division on the Object-ball, and for the strength .
This is the grand indisputable theory of Cannons.
Now ,as the Cannon is always at least a ball wider than the
Hazard , it would seem that the one is by so much the easier
than the other. This is true in theory, though in practice it
varies with the style of the players — some having a greater
aptitude for Winning Hazards than for Cannons or Losing
Hazards. In certain positions the making of the Losing
Hazard requires the greatest nicety. There being only just
room for the ball to enter the pocket, the least deviation from
the proper line sends it against the cushion and causes the
stroketo bemissed. But in Cannons the very slightest impact,
the merest touch , between the balls is sufficient to enable the
VOIC

player to score . Nor is so nice an observance of strength ano

actualnecessity in themaking of Cannons as in that of Hazards
— the fairly-hit ball always going in the direction intended and
flying off from the first to the second Object-ball at the proper
angle, irrespective, to a certain extent, of the force with which
it is struck . Remember, “ to a certain extent' only ; it is the
. uncertain ’ extent that is dangerous. Of course a too hard
 TDD POOK
THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IX .
stroke will be equally faulty in Cannons as in Hazards, break
ing through all the angles of the table and destroying all the
science of the game. In making Cannons, therefore, strength is
not to be lost sight of; the player who makes his stroke with
calculation and judgment may often make a great score out
of an unpromising break of the balls. As I have before said ,
the main art of the player is to keep the balls before him ,
and score as long as he can.
In Diagram XXIII. I give several examples of Cannons,
all ofwhich may be made without Side-stroke ; though it will
be seen that some require Screw . Though I say they may
be made without Side-stroke, most players will put on a
little side' in order to render them somewhat easier of
execution .
When the balls lie pretty close together, a succession of
Cannonsmay be easily made. I recollect winning a game
of one of the best players at the Megatherium ,by a series of
Cannons, when my chance was almost gone. The balls lay
together in a triangle, thus , close to the cushion inside the
baulk . I played gently , and drove the two balls before me
from end to end of the table, always taking care to use just
sufficient force to send one ball a very little way in front of the
other,and reversing their positions with every stroke. Arrived
at the top-cushion, I had the two balls in front of the corner
pocket, where they remained partially fixed. Imade several
Cannons on to them , while in this position,and ended by driving
the red ball into the pocket, following in after it, and winning
the game. I think Imade nineteen Cannons in this break , and
a Six- stroke to finish with - in all, forty -four. The positions of
 bo
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0

O
0
0

T
0
D

OOO00000

DIAGRAM XXIII

Canons.
a Position of the balls at the commencement of the series of canons described
in the tart, b Position at ad of series: c.Direct canonswithout sido stroko.
Striker's bal in hand The lower canons require screw .
འགས - __ - - _ _
 O
O
O
O
O
O O,
Ο
Ο
Ο

ΟΟΟ
Ο
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IACEAM XXIV

Direct canons without side-stroke

The lower canons require screw .
CHAP. IX .] CANNONS. 89 .

the balls at the commencement and at the end of this series of

Cannons is shown at a , b . Try this, and you will find it by no
means so difficult as it appears. Your principal object is to
avoid the spreading apart of the balls. To keep your own ball
behind the others, it will be necessary to use a very slight“ side,
reversing it with every stroke. In passing themiddle pocket
be careful not to run in ; but if you find the balls getting wider
and wider, then the best way is to make a Losing Hazard and
start again from the baulk .

DIRECT CANNONS.

Direct Cannons — that is, Cannons from ball to ball without

playing from the Object-ball to the cushion before the
second ball is struck — occur in every game, and all over
the table.
In Diagram XXIV . another series of Cannons without Side
stroke is given . All these require more or less Division of
the Object-ball, the player shifting his position according to
circumstances. In all cases the dark ball is the one first
struck with your own ball, though,of course, it will notalways
happen that you cannon from the red to the white. The dia
r
gram is so given simply for COnve
convenience' sake.
Various Cannons are shown in Diagram XXV.,all of which
may be made by Dividing the Object-ball or by Screw .
These Cannons occur at various distances ; but all examples
of the Direct Cannon can be but modifications of these or
similar positions of the balls. It is not, therefore,necessary
90 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IX .

that I should multiply instances. The clever student of

Billiards will be able, from the examples adduced , to make
hundreds of modifications for himself. Let him try these on
the table .

CUSHION CANNONS.

Of the nature of Cannons and the way to make them ,most

Billiard-players require to be told little. But yet how few
players do we encounter who thoroughly understand and
practise the true principles on which they depend ! A correct
knowledge of the angles of the table, and the degrees of
strength necessary to carry the ball just so far and no farther
a proper appreciation of the value and right application of
the Side-stroke, and a judicious employment of means to
ends — all these are necessary to the making of Cannons. But .
none of these can be attained without practice,and it is not
given to every man who handles a Cue to be able to draw
just conclusions from even the most plainly-stated and obvious
premisses. Hence the necessity of a good tutor. I have
known lots of fair average players who could no more tell
you the reason ’ for their strokes — no more trace effects back
to causes, and give intelligible explanations of special strokes
and hazards— than they could calculate an eclipse or square
the circle. Not, however, that any large amount of percep
tion is necessary to make a good Billiard-player — and cer
tainly school-knowledge is not an indispensable condition ; for
you, and I, and all of us, know first-rate Hazard-strikers,
and dead-shots at Pool, who would find it difficult to pass
 o oo
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00000000

DIAGRAM XXV

Drrect canonsby dnrding the obiect-ball vui by screw

- - - -
Oo oo oo

DIAGRAM XXVI

Cushion Canons
The balls on the baulk line are the striking balls
CHAP. IX . ] CANNONS.

the preliminary examination at Eton or Harrow . But what is

wanted is a light steady hand, a good eye for distance, and
a quick , resolute, and farseeing appreciation of difficulties.
Are these qualities to be attained by practice ? Most cer
tainly they are — especially if the amateur will take the trouble
to learn the “why' and the “wherefore ’ of his play.
Having already given some examples of Direct Cannons, it
remains for us simply to examine the principle of Cannons from
the cushion . This principle may be explained in a few
sentences: the angle of reflection is equal to the angle of
incidence ; thus a Billiard -ball, struck with equal force in
two directions at right-angles to each other, takes the mean
direction between the two, or what is scientifically called the
diagonal of the parallelogram . In simpler language, every
angle of reflection at a cushion after the first impact of two
balls is equal to the angle of incidence. Exemplifications
of this law are seen in Diagram XXVI., where the angles
would be absolutely equal to each other but for the “side,'
which is either purposely or accidentally put on the ball by
the Cue of the striker. In this figure we see how Cannons
* all round the table ’ are made ; the variations occurring from
the difference of position between the Striker's-ball and the
Object-ball. This plan of playing from the Object-ball on to
the cushion, for the purpose of making a Cannon upon a ball
in another part of the table, admits of immense variety in style
and treatment ; but the principle of the stroke is the same in
every position of the balls. It strikes a looker-on with surprise
to see a good player make Cushion Cannons from end to end
of the table ; but there is really no more difficulty in these
 92 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [Chap. IX .

than in DirectCannons. All theplayer hasto do is to calculate

the distance, and make his first angle from ball to cushion
assume the direction all the other angles should take. This is
the secret of all Cushion Cannons.
But then the principle is. liable to variation in its results,
perhaps some players will say. I say No ; the principle is
unvarying ; it is the method of play which causes the varia
tion observable. In Diagram XXVII. I illustrate this theory .
Suppose you play a ball from the left-hand baulk -spot to the
red, with a view to cannon upon a ball in baulk . You must
so arrange the quantity of side' and the amount of divi
sion ' as to cause your ball to diverge, in its first angle from
the red to the cushion , by just so much as will make the
second angle, and the third angle, sufficient in strength and
direction to reach the ball in baulk . Par exemple, the first
stroke (a ) shown in the diagram is,nearly , a regular angle
from a ball without Side-stroke- each of the lines of angle
being equal to one another. The second stroke (6 ) is a little
more acute, and consequently requiring a little side,' and a
less full stroke on the Object-ball. The third stroke (c)
requires a more full stroke on your own ball,but a very fine
division of the red, so as hardly to touch it in order to make
the Cannon on to the ball in the left-hand corner ; while the
fourth stroke (d ) must be a sharp Side-stroke Following-ball,
so as to go through ' the red , and touch the cushion almost
directly — the “ side' causing its divergence to widen more
and more the farther it travels. In all these strokes — which
are but examples of thousands of strokes that occur in the
course of every man's play — the principle of equal angles is
 DIAGRAM XXVII

Cushion Canons, atracts bailin hand

cta suiiar characterletterscan íabe amultiplied
Thewrresponding & c , showallover the boardofthe canons (anons
thedirection
-- - -
 OOOO
DIAGRAM XXVII

Cushion Canans,striker's ballin band .

The corresponding (11. & c., show the corresponding canons
CHAP. IX .] CANNONS. 93

observed ; the variations, as I have already said, being due,

not to any falsity of theory , or possible chance of difference,
but simply and entirely to the mode in which the original
stroke is made.
In Diagram XXVIII. are half a dozen strokes which show
the principle of the Cushion Cannon as fully as need be. We
presume the player's ball to be in hand and to be shifted on
the baulk -line as occasion requires, in order to make the
several Cannons with as little trouble and as much certainty
as possible . The first stroke ( 1) will need little or no side,
and should be played with a moderate degree of strength,
supposing the ball on which we want to cannon to lie at or
near the place marked in the diagram . The next case ( 2 )
is rather more difficult, and wants a strong full-ball. It is
given to show how the stroke may be made, if the balls hap
pen to fall in the positions marked ; but if the Striker's-ball
were in hand, of course he would play it from either point
of the baulk -semicircle rather than from the centre. Not so ,
however, with the next stroke (3 ), which , being a regular
angle nearly, requires but very little “ side. The stroke
marked 4 is also easy of execution, as in that, again , the
angle is not made acute with Side-stroke. Cases 5 and 6 are
butmodifications of the others, and are inserted to show that
the length of the Cannon does not in any way interfere with
the principle on which it should be made, provided sufficient
force be properly employed.
A good player combines Hazards and Cannons in a neat
and rapid manner, never giving a chance away, or making
a speculative stroke when an ordinary one will answer as
94 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. IX .

well, to keep his break from ending ingloriously. It is

an old saying, that there is always a Cannon to be made
while there are three balls on the table. This is to a
certain extent correct ; and it is to the judgment and
skill of the player that great breaks are due. I think little
of a man who can make a few good strokes, but fails to
make the most of a promising break. The realway to play
at Billiards is to keep your eyes open, and take advantage
of every fair and legitimate opportunity of adding to your
score.
What is here said about Cannons may appear rather too
recondite ; but it must be remembered , that what is called
the science ' of Billiards depends upon a nice observance of
the theory of Angles, and a careful and regular method of
play. He who would succeed must endeavour to play as
though his gamedepended on the one particular stroke then
before him ; never allowing a chance of scoring to be neg
lected, and always looking well to the position of the balls
before he makes his stroke, and to their probable position
after the balls have ceased to roll, whether the Hazard or
Cannon be accomplished or not.
In closing this chapter allow me to remark , that what may
appear difficult of execution in the Diagrams is easy enough
after a little familiarity with the several games. The smallness
of the balls represented in the various figures here introduced,
does not enable me to indicate the precise spot at which each
one should be struck . This the player will, however, soon
learn for himself. Every position of the balls on the table
requires its own special study - not,however, that the player
CHAP. IX .] CANNONS. 95

should linger over his stroke; for a little practice, combined

with the shrewdness for which he must allow me to give him
credit, will enable him to see at a glance what is the best
course under every variety of circumstance. Wherea Winning
or Losing Hazard may be doubtful, a Cannon may perhaps be
made with ease : and with this advantage — that the missing of
the Cannon is generally attended with less chance of your
opponent scoring after you, than the failure of the Hazard.
But in either case, play with such strength as will enable you
to leave the balls safe, if you fail to score
 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. X .

CHAPTER X .

EXAMPLES OF CANNONS.

Is it possible ?
'Tis true ; there's magic in the art ofit. — OTHELLO.

S H E astonishing facility with which some players

handle the Cue, gives amateurs the idea that
Billiards is a very easy game. So it is, if players
be content to remain in the army of mediocrities. In this
respect, Billiards resembles Whist. Anyone can be taught
to play in a few hours,but to become excellent at either,
it is necessary to practise assiduously, and with a full and
perfect comprehension of the principles which govern the
games. This is nowhere seen in Billiards so thoroughly as in
the making of Cannons. Various curious feats are occasionally
exhibited on the Billiard-table ; and one, which was charac
terised as ' unparalleled ,' was, in November 1865, performed
by Cristmas, the manager of the Cocoa Tree Club, St. James's
Street. It consisted in the making of no fewer than sixty-four
consecutive Cannons, without allowing either of the balls to
touch the cushion during the whole performance. When the
account of his feat appeared in the papers, folks wondered
how it was done, and various clever players tried to place the
balls in positions favourable for its accomplishment. The
 DIAGRAM XXX
Side-stoke Canons
The (uved innes show the effect of the sule-stroke 25 tistinguished
from the renilu su oke This isparticunriy výscriable in lise 3
CHAP. X .] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 97

secret is this : the three balls are placed close together on the
table, in the form of a triangle, thus: - * . The player uses
a light broad -tipped Cue, and plays at the two balls with just
sufficient strength to strike them both , without allowing his
own ball to remain in actual contact with either of them . In
this way he makes Cannon after Cannon, always with such
graduated strength as to accomplish his purpose and no more ;
taking care not to divide the balls too much . With a little
practice, a great number of Cannonsmay be so made. In fact,
the feat is but a modification of the old trick , in which the
sharper bets that he will make a hundred Cannons with three
balls. In this case, however, he changes the Striking-ballas
often as occasion requires. Another way of making a long
series of Cannons is shown in Diagram XXIII. and its accom
panying text. But in the latter instance, it is the Striker's
ball, and not either of the Object-balls, which is kept from
touching the cushion. The whole art is in the employment
of a perfectly -commanded strength of Cue.
But enough of the principles which govern all Cannons: let
us now illustrate those principles by a few examples.

DIAGRAM XXIX .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Here we have (Case 1) a Cannon that is not difficult to make, though

most players bungle over it. You must strike your ball low on the in-side,
H
98 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. X .

with a sharp concussion, but notmuch drawback , or you willmiss the Cannon
and bring your ball into an awkward position.

Case 2 requires side' and division ,according to the position of the ball
played on . Your ball must be struck rather low , with a rubbing side ':

Case 3 may bemade either with or without side.' If without the Side
stroke, the Division of the Object-ball must be very fine, with a slight
' following ' action. But whether you use ' side ' or not, your ballmust be struck
gently, or you will make the angle too wide.

DIAGRAM XXX .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1 is an ordinary Side-twist, and the ball must be struck low , with a
decided drawback .

Case 2. Here we have two illustrations ofthe force of the Side-stroke. In

one instance the ‘ side' is so strong as to make the curve very decided , but
after the first contact with the cushion the curve is very much diminished ,
and on the second the angle is nearly straight to the ball. In the second
stroke, from the same position ,the “side' is less strong, and consequently the
angle is much narrower. In all such cases the playermust exercise his best
judgment as to the quantity of side ' required. In this consists the science
of the Side-stroke. In order to avoid a complication of lines, I have, in this
and other Diagrams, omitted to note the direction taken by the Object-ball
after concussion .
 L'IAGRAM XXX

Sup-stroke Canons
Cutri unes showu tie ettect of side-stroke
 LAGHAM XXX .

Side -stroke Canons

1 Huh Sule-stroke ani obrutball struck till The object ball tlies towards
Centreof tableand striker'sbail huas the cushion to the canon ? Fine Side-stroke.
CHAP. X .] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS.

DIAGRAM XXXI.

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1 shows how a Side-stroke combined with a Top -screw acts in

making a Cannon when both balls are near to the cushion. The ball after the
first contact curls towards the cushion, and after slightly touching it, glances
off to the third ball. This is a very pretty stroke. The Object-ball is to be
struck nearly full, more on the side towards the cushion , which causes the
ball to fly off to the middle of the table, as shown by the dotted line, and
does not therefore interfere with the Cannon . If you strike it too full on the
out-side, it will run along the cushion and “kiss ' the other ball away.

Case 2 is a narrow angle, produced by a “ slow ' side and Following-ball - a

most useful stroke to learn . Strike your ball rather high , with a flowing
action of the cue and good strength .

11 ?
100 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. X .

DIAGRAM XXXII.

SIDE-STROKE CANNONS.

The Cannon shown in Case 1 requires a high “ side,' struck rather sharply ;
or the strokemay be made with a counter -side. In either case the stroke
must be decided , and rather sudden . But avoid a jerk, which is always
destructive to success. It is, perhaps, rather curious to talk of the side of a
spherical body, but you must recollect that the face of the ball presented to
the player is rather a disc than a sphere. At any rate, it is easy for the
player to accustom his mind to the distinction. In making this stroke the
slightest bias in the ball is fatal to its success. Kentfield says that all balls,
however truly turned ,must have some bias ; but in his day less care was
taken in the selection of the ivory than now prevails.

Case 2 presents a stroke which frequently occurs — a Cannon in baulk

and a Doublet. The Object-ball must be struck nearly full, while a strong
“ side' is put on the player's ball.
 DIA : FAM XXXII

1 Side stroke canons 2 Theballplayed upon doubles into thepocket,

and the canon following
-- - - I-. -w
 DIAGRAM XXXIII

1. 2 Side-stroke canon . 3 Doublet anon or hazard

CHAP. X.] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 101

DIAGRAM XXXIII .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

The Cannon shown in Case 1 is easy of accomplishment: a slight in -side

stroke carries your ball to the cushion , from which it rebounds to the third
ball and makes the Cannon. Make the stroke gently, or you will fail. A
Screw would give you the same Cannon direct,but somuch certainty must not
be reckoned on .

Case 2 is a square Cannon made by a Side- twist. Your ball will roll to
the cushion and rebound slightly, but not far enough to miss the third ball.
This is an elegant stroke, which may bemade in any part of the table.

Case 3 is a Cannon or Doublet by striking the Object-ball full on the in

side nearest the cushion , or by playing it very full on the out-side— in both
cases putting the right-hand side to your own ball, with good strength .
 102 · THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. X .

DIAGRAM XXXIV .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1. Play a high ball with strong right-hand Side-stroke, and some
screw .

Case 2. Less‘ side’ is required for this ball,but your ballmust not be struck
below the middle.

Case 3. Hold your Cue nearly upright with a firm grasp,and press your ball
on to the Object-ball with a sort of pushing rub. This is a most scientific
stroke, which you must practise till you acquire ; for it very frequently
occurs. The same effect will be gained by the counter-side, but not so cer
tainly as if you strike your ball on the side at which the Cannon is to be
'made. A similar stroke may be made at any part of the cushions. In this
as in other diagrams, the Cannon is but the representative of hundreds of like
Hazards. They are to bemade with nicely -graduated strength . If you play
too hard , you willbreak through the proper angles and miss the Cannon.
 I ' A FAM XXXIV

1 Side- stroke canons 3 Canon with a kiss

 -

DIAGRAM XXXV

Sute stroke ugons

CHAP. X .] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 103

DIAGRAM XXXV .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

In both these Cannons I show the true and the apparent line of the ball as
it leaves the cue, the dotted line assimilating to the actual course of the
ball. Cannonsmade from the cushion in this way are not difficult ofexecu cu

tion, provided your calculation ofthe angle be correct, and you put on 'side'
accordingly . Practise strokes of this character with fair but not violent
strength ; they are very useful.
104 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP . X

DIAGRAM XXXVI.

SIDE-STROKE CANNONS.

These strokes are by no means difficult. They require a high Side-stroke,

freely applied,— that is to say, with sufficient force to carry your ball sharply
back from the cushions. They might be multiplied indefinitely. In every
instance of this kind, the player will exemplify the axiom of the equality
between the angles of incidence and reflection. Balls placed in positions
like these, present to the ordinary player a fair chance for a Cannon ; with
other Cannons or Hazards being left when the ball ceases to roll. Of course
every variation of position will require variation of style. Stand well
behind your ball, and use moderate strength .
DIAGRAM XXXVI

Side-stroke wions
DIAGRAM XXXVII

Side-stroke canons
CHAP. X . ) EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 105

DIAGRAM XXXVII.

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

In the cases here shown the contact between your ball and the Object-ball
should be of the slightest, while sufficient strength is used to carry your ball
up the table. A high side ' is required on the rightwhen the Cannon lies to
the right, and vice versa . These Cannons are examples of thousands of like
character, which occur in the course of every man's play . They are, there
fore, sufficiently representative. When they are made without “ side,'the im
pact between the Striking-ball and the Object-ball should be rather more
decided ; but in every case you must employ enough strength to drive your
ball well up the table.
106 . THE BILLIARD BOOK . [Chap. X.

DIAGRAM XXXVIII.

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1 is an instance of side with a strong Screw - a most scientific
stroke. Hit your ball low , with a good drawback .

Case 2 requires a screw and good ‘side: ' the ball and the cushion must
be struck at the same instant; or a very full ball, so as to make the Object
ball “kiss' away from the cushion . In either case, your own ball rebounds
from the cushion across the table. A good break commonly follows a Cannon
made from balls in this position . .
 I' IAGEAM XXXVIII

Side -stroke Canons.

1.(aun with a strong screw and thecorner pocket made
Canon across the table.
 DIAGRAM XXXIX

1.Canon and double. Canon from cushuon .

CHAP. X .] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. . 107
107

DIAGRAM XXXIX .

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1 is a good instance of gentle side.' Play high, with an in -side.

Case 2 is a Cannon from the cushion, with a very narrow angle. Make
your 'side ' slight, and your blow not too strong.

These are examples of numerous Cannons; and the player will do well to
practise them , by varying the positions of the balls a little with every
successive trial. Case 1 occurs so frequently, that every player should be able
to make it ; but if you strike too full or too hard, you will fail.
103
108 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [Chap. X .

DIAGRAM XL .

SIDE-STROKE CANNONS.

In Case 1 you cannon by a ‘kiss.' The Object-ball is driven against thetop

cushion , and the side' and screw put on your own ball send it to the side
cushion, whence it rebounds to the other ball.

Case 2 . You cannon in this instance by playing with a nearly perpendicular

cue at the ball nearest the cushion , striking it on either side, according as
you wish it to curl to the right or the left : — a most elegant stroke, which
requires very decisive treatment and some practice.
- -

DIAGRAM XL
Side-stroke Canons
linnon by a kiss. ? (anon with the bailsdose
 .
.. . . . .
..

DIASRAM XLI

lunan by a hass ? Sude-stroke canon 3 To strikethe ástant ball without

touching themi 4 To go round thewhite tor the red hazard
 EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 109
CHAP. X.]

DIAGRAM XLI.

SIDE -STROKE CANNONS.

Case 1 is a Cannon with a "kiss' : this is a most brilliant and useful stroke.
When the red ball is on the spot, and the white one behind it close to the
cushion, the player in hand wishes to make a Cannon : strike the ball directly
in the centre,and play full at the red ; the red will ‘kiss ' upon thewhite, and
on its rebound from the cushion will meet the Striker’s-ball and give you the
Cannon .

Case 2. If you wish to cannon you must put on a decided in-side. If you
want to miss the ball, and play at the one farthest from you, put on a
strong left-hand side, and aim away from the cushion -ball. This is a good
Cramp-stroke.

Case 3 also is a Cramp-stroke. Suppose a red ball left over the pocket,
and the white in the way. If the red be not removed , your opponentwill be
sure to pocket it ; what then are you to do? Why,make a strong high in
side-stroke, aiming two inches from the white. Of course the same effect
will be produced , whether you put on right or left side,' according to the
position of the balls. The “ side ' will carry your ball round the white and
on to the red, when if you do not make the Hazard you will at least remove
the ball from the pocket. Strokes of this kind are very useful, and com
paratively easy to accomplish, when you have acquired sufficient command
over your cue to enable you to strike your ball on any part of its surface.
Hold your cue firmly, but not too tightly, or you will drive away your ball
in a direction contrary to the one you wished it to take.
110 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. X .

DIAGRAM XLII.

SIDE-STROKE CANNONS.

Cannons by Bricole. — These are illustrationsof numerous Cannons made by

playing first at the cushions. Various situations will present themselves when
such a mode of play is not only desirable but absolutely necessary. In the
instances shown in the Diagram it would have been necessary, in order to
make the Cannon , to go, as itwere,through the firstball,with a strong follow
ing action — a hazardous, inelegant, and uncertain style of play when you lie
at a distance from the Object-ball. But if you play Bricole,and so make the
Cannon, the stroke itself is a pretty one, and you are nearly sure to leave
another Hazard on the table. These Cannons can be made without Side
stroke; but, generally, they come off better when the side' is neatly put
on — not too hard , but judiciously and firmly ; with the Cue well in hand ,
and your mind thoroughly made up for the accomplishment of the stroke.
So much depends on hand and head acting in unison , that I cannot too often
insist on the player giving his whole attention to Hazards of doubtful
character. They should be practised repeatedly .
LIAGEAM XLI
Canons by bruole
 LIAGEAM XLIII
Canon by side-stroke or rajular angle
CHAP. X . ] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 111

DIAGRAM XLIII.

SIDE-STROKE versus REGULAR ANGLE.

This Cannon shows the distinction between the Side-stroke and the regular
angle. The Cannon may be made by either plan . The plain angle is shown
by the straight lines, and the Side-stroke by the curved ones. I have intro
duced it, not so much for anything in the Cannon itself, as for the purpose
of illustrating the effect of the Side-stroke. Of course this,as in other cases,
is but a representative Cannon. The thoughtful student will, after receiving
the hint, be able to place the balls in various positions which exhibit
similar modifications of the principle ; the side ' being put on to suit circum
stances, and the strength adapted to the distance the player'sballhas to travel.
It was by strokes of this kind that Kentfield obtained his great fame as a
Cannon -striker. Cannons made by playing all round the table ' are not so
difficult as they appear, for if the first angle be true,all the succeeding lines
of reflection will be counterparts of it : the six inches of width allowed for
every Cannon being sufficient to correct the slight deviation from the true
angle, which arises from the sharpness of the rebound from highly elastic
cushions. From the old list- cushions, greater certainty of angle, but less
swiftness, might be calculated on . Much , however, depends on the judg
ment of the player.
112 THE BILLIARD BOOK . (CHAP. X

DIAGRAM XLIV .

SIDE -STROKES AND REGULAR ANGLES.

Here again we have Cannons that may bemadeby either Side-stroke,or the
regular angles of the table. In the first case,the angle is a little sharper than
in the last, so that the player must shift his ball to the right or left of the
centre baulk - spot, just as he may choose to make the stroke by a full
stroke or a “ side.' Kentfield and White generally played these strokes with
outmuch ' side' ; but, then, they were not in the habit of playing on tables
with india -rubber cushions. The present style of cushion , having more
spring and elasticity than those which were stuffed with list or cloth, renders
the application of the Side-stroke of more importance than in the old times ;
but perhaps, after all,for certain effects, as for dead Cannons in straight lines,
the list-cushions were less variable in their results than the fast cushions of
modern tables. However, it is so pleasant to play on a fine table, with a
beautifully smooth cloth , and exquisitely elastic cushions of india -rubber,
that it would be absurd to advocate the old style.
 dooooo

LAIM XIT

(anons by sude stroke or repuiar anules .plaver's buü in baik

 оооо

(anons tellustrate the dtee of the side-strukce

CBAP. X .] . EXAMPLES OF CANNONS . 113

DIAGRAM XLV.

ILLUSTRATIONS OF THE SIDE -STROKE.

These Cannons very admirably illustrate the extreme effects of the Side
stroke. All the upper range must be played high on your ball ; the squared
Cannon opposite the centre pocket with a half-screw , and all the lower range
with a low side- screw , not too hard. Nothing will give you a better notion
of the capabilities of the Side-stroke than these Cannons. I should therefore
advise players to try them one by one, not contenting themselves till they
have made them with ease, dexterity , and certainty. It will be well, also ,
to vary the position of the Striking -ball — bringing it nearer to , or farther
from , the centre spot on the baulk -line, and marking the place of its rebound
from the Object-ball with a piece of chalk . It is only by such means that
certainty of execution can be acquired . You will find,however, that the certain
Cannon, on your own pet table, is by no means to be depended on at an
unfamiliar one. Every Billiard -table has its own special characteristics,
just as every carriageor every horse has. This remark applies also to Cues.
When you are accustomed to the weight, feel, and balance of a Cue, it is
sometimes difficult to play in your usual style with a strange instrument.
Indeed , I have found even the aspect of a Billiard -room to affect my play for
the first half-hour or so. All these little matters must be taken into account
by players of susceptible temperament.
114 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. X .

DIAGRAM XLVI.

CANNONS BY DIVISION OR SIDE-STROKE.

These Cannonsmay be made either by ' side ' or ' division. The first style
is the most elegant— the last the most easy. Try both . A full stroke on
the Object-ball will send your own ball against the cushion, and cause it to
rebound sharply across the table. When side' is employed for the making
of Cannons of this kind, the strength must bemodified by the player as may be
necessary. When the Object-ball is under the opposite cushion , you reverse
the side, and place your ball— if it is in hand - farther and farther from the
baulk -spot, as the distance below the middle pocket and the Object-ball is
increased.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

These Diagrams might be multiplied indefinitely ; for

it is well known to every player that scarcely two Cannons
are absolutely identical with each other. But the character
of certain Cannons is sufficiently well defined to render further
illustration unnecessary. From the Diagrams here given , the
judicious student will be able to make for himself any number
of variations, each one of which will be found useful in
practice. I would advisehim to begin with the simple examples,
and proceed regularly , till he is able to accomplish the more
difficult feats. An hour's practice,two or three times a week ,
will soon make him player enough to contend in the public
rooms.
 ооооо
o
родо
o o

000 000

Innensi tull stokes for the regular wies and varutunsor

Sudr 107 the upper NUWE
-
CHAP. X .] EXAMPLES OF CANNONS. 115

Though I may perhaps repeat myself, I must, in concluding

this chapter, impress upon the amateur the necessity of fully
conquering the principle of the Side-stroke. If you play a
ball full against the cushion , and mark the return -angle, you
will see that the second angle is the reverse of the first ; but
if you put on a little side,' you will see that the angle widens ;
a little more, and it widens still more ; extreme - side,' and the
angle is yet further extended . Let me illustrate this by a
Diagram . The straight line in the figure below represents the
Ang
les of Side stroke
l
Nat

ra

e
Ang l

tu

gl
ura

Na

An
le

les f ide troke

Ang o S s

ILLUSTRATIONS OF SIDE -STROKE.

cushion . If you strike your ball full in the centre, you make
the natural angle ; if on either of its sides, you make the angles
more and more obtuse, according to the amount of side.'
The positions of the Cues will show you the distinction
between the strokes : for plain strokes a straight Cue — for
side-strokes the Cue must be held rather across the ball and
nearer or farther from the body, as already explained .
The lines of progression here shown are straight, but on
12
116 · THE BILLIARD BOOK. [ CHAP. X .

the table they are more or less curved . This is very difficult
to illustrate ; but the following figure will give you some some

notion of the actual effect of the “ side ’ :

m
m

Ja

ILLUSTRATIONS OF SIDE-STROKE.

I have purposely kept these illustrations for the conclusion

of the chapter on Cannons, the rather because I was unwilling
to burden the mind of the pupil with too much science — or
the appearance of it, if you choose. The curved lines in the
figure represent the course of the ball from the Cue to the
Cushion , and the curled lines its progress after concussion .
The perpendiculars are merely introduced to guide the eye as
to the positions of the Cues.
Au reste ! The amateur who has carefully followed me thus
far will, I imagine, obtain a much better idea of Billiards than
ever he had before. He has only to carry the theories into
practice to become a good player.
 117

CHAPTER XI.
CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES.

' Tis one thing to be tempted, Escalus,

Another thing to fall. *
What know the laws,
That thieves do pass on thieves ? ' Tis very pregnant,
The jewel that we find we stoop and take it,
Because we see it : but what we do not see,
We tread upon, and never think of it.
Measure for Measure.

AT is a common saying with players, that there are sixty

CRP Ten -strokes in every game at Billiards. Perhaps there
3 are, but the difficulty is that the balls do not often fall
in such a way as to enable the player to make a Ten-stroke
once in an evening,much less in a game.

BILLIARD -TABLE TRICKS.

By Cramp-strokes I do not mean Trick -strokes. Cramp

strokes, properly played , are often of very great utility in
redeeming an otherwise lost game, and in turning an un
promising break into a good one. ByCramp-strokes I under
stand violent screws and twists, pushes, kisses, very strong
side-strokes, and almost imperceptible touches, together with
118 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XI.

many other tours-de-cuewhich are only to be acquired by dint

of long practice, and cannot readily be described on paper .
Trick -strokes are generally acquired by rooks and billiard
sharps as a means of betting. One of the most common of
the Trick -strokes is the Dip (see page 43). The ball is struck on
the top, or nearly so, with a well-raised finely-tipped cue ;
and if the stroke is neatly made, the ball rises a little from the
table,and, instead of rolling, flies sharply along, and only rolls
when it drops. It is with a stroke of thiskind thatthe Cannon
is made from one table on to two balls on another table — a
stroke which was once considered so wonderful that it was
talked of in every club and public-room , and thousands of
people went to a well-known tavern to see a young German
make it ; now, however, that every player of any power of
Cue can master it, nobody cares anything about it. This
stroke I have already referred to. By the Dip the sharper
makes the well-known betting-stroke of striking a ball between ,
or rather over,two balls placed less than a ball apart from each
other ( Diagram XLVII., Case 1).
Byastrong Side-stroke‘kiss ’hemakes the Pool-basket Stroke,
a really clever performance (see Diagram XLVII.) A ball
is placed close to the cushion on either side of the middle
pocket, and between the two is put the pool-basket or a hat.
The player then plays from the opposite side of the table, at a
sharp angle, and with a Screw and strong Side-stroke causes his
ball to force away the Object-ball, “ kiss ' on to the cushion,
curve round the basket, and cannon on the other ball.
Then there is the sharper's stroke of placing three balls in a
line across the centre of the table, and betting that he will
 DIAGFAM XLVI!

Trick Strokes.
I The three balls ciose together · The Pool hasket stroke
The direction of the cue shows the position of the player
CHAP. XI. ] CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES. 119

pocket the one over the cushion without touching the centre
ball. The bet taken , he puts a hat over the centre ball, and
by striking the hat with his ball,knocks the other ball into the
pocket.
Again , there is the dirty catch of placing a ball close over
themiddle pocket and betting half-a -crown he will pocket the
ball, and a shilling he knocks off the brass — a little arrange
ment by which the sharper robs the verdant youth who bets
with him of eighteenpence ; for he does pocket his ball, and
he does not knock off the brass. These and numerous like
1 TeTO

strokes are practised by men who carry a piece of chalk in their

pockets, and are particularly familiar with the marker. It is
scarcely necessary to say that they are men to be avoided .
While on the subject of Trick-strokes and Markers, Imay as
well introduce a pleasant and cleverly-written little sketch by
the author of “ Lost Sir Massingberd,' a story that should be
widely read. The sketch is entitled

THE MARKER .

I am a Billiard -marker in the Quadrant. If a man can say a

bitterer thing than that of another, I shall be obliged to him if he will
mention it, as I shall then have a higher opinion of my profession
than before. Everybody else seems to be making capital of their
experiences , and why should not I ? I see a great deal of what is
called life, up in this second -storey, and why should I not describe it?
I am sure I have plenty of spare time. I have been here long
enough to become unconscious of the roar of foot and wheel that
rises from the street below ; neither is there anything in the apart
ment itself to distract my attention much ; no literature, save an
illustrated edition of Allsopp's advertisements hung all round the
walls , and a staternent , which I know to be a lie - in seven colours,
120 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XI.
about the best cigars in London : no pictures,besides a representation
of Mr. Kentfield , which I hope for that gentleman 's sake is not a
correct one. He has one or both of his hips out, and is striking a
ball in one direction while his eyes are steadily fixed in another. Of
furniture, there is an immense oblong table with a white sheet upon
it, one rickety chair , high -cushioned formsaround the room , a rack
for the public Cues, two painted boards for marking at Pool or
Billiards, a lucifer -match box over the mantelpiece, and spittoons.
The atmosphere is at all times chalky. In the evening, cigars and
beer and gas make continually their fresh -and-fresh exhalations, but in
themorning their combined aroma is stale. I feel when I first come
in as if I were drinking the beer that has been left all night in the
glasses, and endeavouring to smoke the scattered ends of the cigars.
I sit upon the rickety chair with the rest in my hand, and my head
beneath the marking -board — sometimes for hours — waiting for
people to come. I arrive about twelve o'clock , and there is rarely
anyone to play before the afternoon. Yes, there is one person - .
Mr. Crimp. I call him , and everybody calls him , and he calls
himself, Captain Crimp; but I now exhibit him in plain deal, without
that varnish of his own applying. His step is not a careless one, but
he whistles a jovial tune as he comes upstairs, until he finds I am
alone, when he leaves off at once, ungracefully ; first, however , he
looks in the cupboard where the washband -stand is kept, remarking
“ O !” regularly every morning, as though he did it bymistake ; and,
finding nobody there, he proceeds to business.
"Mr. Crimp assists me with his own scrupulously clean hands in
removing the white cloth , and immediately becomes my pupil. I
have taught him several skilful strokes at different times , which his
admiration for the science of the game leads him to reward me for,
quitemunificently . Curiously enough, there is also an understood con
dition that I should say nothing about this. Later in the day, and
when the company has arrived , it often happens that he will get a
little money on , and accomplish those feats himself. A certain
winning hazard in a corner -pocket,which appears particularly simple,
I am now instructing him to miss — so that his ball may go round all
the cushions and perform its original mission at last. It seems a
CHAP. XI.) CRAMP -STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES. 121

roundabout method enough of accomplishing its object, but it will

have its uses for the Captain , I have no doubt. His interest in the
game extends even to the condition of the table itself. He knows
how the elastic sides are affected by a change of weather , and he
prefers the right-hand middle pocket, for choice, to play at - it draws.
Our lesson commonly lasts about an hour, unless we are interrupted.
I have another occasional pupil in young Mr. Tavish. He learns
Billiards as he would languages or dancing; but he will never do
much at it. His attitudes, however , are after the very best models ;
and when he has made a fluke, he can look as if he intended it better
than any man ---a property in all situations of life not a little useful.
Mr. Tavish is the pink of fashionable perfection. Between two and
four come our chance customers, who are themost interesting to me,
and of a very various sort :
A couple of brothers who have not met for years, and who are
about to part, perhaps for ever - one just returned from Jamaica ,
and the other on the point of starting for India. They talk of their
past adventures as they play — of their future prospects, of their
respective sweethearts, of their home (for nobody minds a Billiard
marker) — as though they were quite alone.
• A father with his grown-up son will knock the balls about for
half an hour , to see if he retains his ancient skill, dilating all the
while on mortgages, on the necessity of a rich wife, and on the young
man 's allowance , and compressing the Chesterfield Letters into a
fifty- game. Now and then comes a parson , who looks into the
cupboard , just as Mr. Crimp did , for fear that his diocesan should be
in hiding there.
Two University men, who are up in town for a week 's lark , but
are supposed ( I hear) by sanguine friends to be at college, reading at
that present ; their talk is of the boats, the proctors, the tripos, aud of
the man who went to the bad.
Sometimes— for I was not born into the world a Billiard-marker
these topics touch me nearly . What does it matter ? I am here ;
and , whether through my own bad play, or an unlucky Auke, it is
now all one; my mission is to mark , not moralize.
• After four drop in the Pool- players — five or six habitués and a
122 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XI.

few strangers: some of them gentlemen , but the majority evident

“ legs” — quiet resolute- looking fellows, with hard keen eyes ; abste
mious moral persons, with iron nerves, and perfectly heartless, who
live by this particular pastime. They would win the last halferown
of the player before them , although they knew the loss would insure
his immediate suicide. They would remark, after he had drowned
himself, that he had “ taken to the water.” From the prosecution of
this game for eight hours daily , their view of life has been formed ;
it is one gigantic Pool to them , wherein every man 's hand is against
the others, and the misfortune of one makes all the rest happy.
Each has a little sort of coffin , locked , which holds bis particular cue.
He looks along this weapon carefully, to make certain of its straight
ness, rubs the thin end with scouring-paper, and chalks the top with
his own private chalk , of which he carries a piece about with him , in
his waistcoat-pocket. From the time when I have given out the
balls to the last stroke which wins, or divides the Pool, these men
maintain an almost unbroken silence. No judge in delivery of a
death -doom , no priest in the celebration of religious rites, could be .
graver or more solemn than they. My “ Blue on yellow , brown
your player,” and “ Red on white, yellow in hand,” break forth
amidst the hush , like minute-guns during a burial at sea ; the click
of the balls, the whiz when one is forced into a pocket, are the only
other sounds. Many of our visitors in the midday ask for lunch ,
which is invariably toasted cheese ; but these night-birds, with the
exception of a little beer and tobacco-smoke, suffer nothing to pass
their lips. Sometimes, amidst those solemn scoundrels there appears
a jovial face — a naval man on leave perhaps, or somebody who is
really a little screwed, and creates a disturbance : laughing and
singing, putting the best off their play, and endangering the wariest
by his mad strokes. Mr. Crimp looks on those occasions as though,
being hungry, some one had come between him and his dinner ; and
I observe his lips to move silently — I do not think in prayer. There
is a pretty constant attendant here , a Mr. Scurry , who is, I know ,
his special aversion. This gentleman comes for no earthly purpose
but to amuse himself, and with his spirits always at high-pressure .
He makes puns,and uses ready-made ones,about everything connected
DIAKAM XLVIT
Ten stroke.
CHAP. XI.) CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES. 123

with the game. He is come, he states on entrance, “ To plunge in

the quiet pool.” “ Consider yourself, Captain,” said he, yesterday ,
while he held that instrument over Mr. Crimp, “ under a rest.”
“ No rest for the guilty ” is his quotation , whenever that is
called for. He calls the cues that have lost their top- leathers
“ ex -cues.” You can imagine what a range such a man finds in
“ stars ” and “ lives ; ” how the church and army are each laid under
contribution for his remarks on “ cannons; " how “ misses” and
“ kisses ” are remarked upon . If the red ball is kissed , he remarks,
on each occasion, “ Nowonder she blushes ! ” And all this waggish
ness of his is the more creditable, inasmuch as he might just as well
whisper it into one of the pockets, as impart it to his company with
any hope whatever of appreciation. He does not want that; it is
merely that he has an exuberance of merriment, and must let it off
somehow : which is to the others generally an awful crime, and
beyond their experience. Mr. Scurry gives me a shilling now and
then , as do many of the earlier visitors. I have also my rewards
from Mr. Crimp ; and I am not, besides, ill -paid . It is not of the
hardships of my profession that I have to complain ( though I am up
always until three in the morning , with the thermometer for the
last six hours at about eighty ) so much as of its unsocial character :
nobody trusts me; nobody interests himself in me in the least, or
considersmeas anything beyond a peripatetic convenience for getting
at your ball when it is out of reach . Nobody ever gets familiar with
me, except Mr. Crimp, and I am the dumb witness , daily , of innu
merable frauds.
' I know the real skill of every player to a hair, and how much he
conceals of it. I think I may say , from long habit of observation,
that I know the characters of nine -tenths of the men who enter this
room ; and if I do, some of them are exceedingly bad characters.
The calm dead hand at a hazard, whom nothing disturbs from his
aim ; the man who plays for a stroke only when it is a certainty ,
preferring his own safety to his enemy's danger ; the hard hitter
from whom no player is secure ; the man who is always calling his
own strokes flukes; the man who is always calling other people's by
that derogatory name; and the poor fellow who is for ever under the
124 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XI.

cushion. My world , which is not a small one, is mapped out for

me, with all its different species of men, upon this table ; for I stand
apart, and mark many things beside the score.'

CRAMP-STROKES.

The Cramp-strokes that are really useful should be prac

tised by all players ; as who knows when he may not want
them ? They are like the bank-notes carried in the most
secret pocket of your porte-monnaie — not intended for every
day use, and only to be brought out when there comes a
real necessity for employing them .
A good Ten -stroke is shown in Diagram XLVIII. The
red ball is doubled into the middle pocket, while you cannon
on the white and roll into the corner after it. This requires
a little screw and “ side,' and is one of the Ten -strokes most
frequently presented ; as it can be made from any corner
of the table, you have four Ten -strokes out of the sixty. The
Middle-pocket Stroke (shown in Chap. VIII. p. 83) gives you
two more ; and the Stroke 2 , Diagram XLIX ., fourmore.
Ore
This
last stroke is easy enough after you have once acquired
facility in pocketing the red in the corner. You strike your
ball high on the in -side, pocket the red, fly down to the
cushion in one or other of the lines marked,make the Cannon
on the ball over the middle pocket, and run your ball in
after it. When the balls are close together without quite
touching, this stroke is by no means difficult ; but if you do
not strike your ball almost on the top, you will fail to pocket
the red .
IA SEA . XLIX

Ten stroke
 0 0
2. 0

DIAGRAM L

I Canon without touching the cushion 2.The samewith a hard screw .

CHAP. XI.] CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES. 125

Another very good stroke is the Wide Screw Cannon shown

in Diagram L . This may be made with a slow twist either
from the baulk , or from the extremity of the baulk -line. Of
course it is easier from the last position . In the diagram the
balls are pretty close together, but a little practice will enable
you to make the Cannon with half the width of the table
between them .
Another pretty Cannon is that shown in Diagram LI. Both
balls hug the cushion ,and you are playing from the baulk ,
or near to it. What you do is to strike cushion and ball at
the samemoment with a sharp in -side. This will cause your
ball to fly across the table and cannon ; or you may strike the
ball full, which causes the two to kiss,'and forces your ball
across the table. This stroke may be made in a variety of
ways, and from many positions ; but one example is as good as
a thousand, when the pupil has his eyes open and his head
clear.
A good Eight-stroke is shown in Diagram LII., fig. 1. The
red ball touches the cushion with your own just in front of it,
and a white ball over the pocket. You push , not strike, your .
ball, and by this means force the red into the pocket, make
the Cannon, and hole your own ball. A decided push , slow
but rather high, on the out-side is necessary ; but the stroke
requires practice and nerve, for if you strike by ever so
slight a blow you will fail. This is a famous stroke in
Pool or Pyramids, and seldom fails when once acquired .
Or by a gentle push on the in-side, you may make the
Losing Hazard. Distance from the pocket is no great matter,
provided the two balls are close together, and the Object
126 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XI.

ball touch the cushion. A similar stroke may be made at

either corner.
The last stroke is a modification of one which often occurs,
when the Object-ball is close to the cushion, and your ball is
in hand or at a distance . You play full at it, • kiss,' and come
back in almost a straight line to your starting-point. I
recollect winning a game of a noted professional by this
stroke. The red ball was close to the top -cushion ,and his ball
nearly opposite it under the baulk -cushion , while I was in
baulk . I knew the stroke would come all right if the ball
were properly hit ; and as I was playing an uphill game,
everything depended on my scoring. I could not play at
the white, as I was in hand ; so I took my Cue firmly in
my grasp, and with sudden force struck at the red. The two
balls ó kissed ,' when back rolled mine, and made the Cannon .
A good opening break presented itself, and I won the game!
Another Cramp-stroke is shown at fig. 2 Diagram LII.
This is a stroke that often presents itself on one or other of
the cushions. What you have to do is to cannon and pocket
your own ball, or to cannon and pocket the white, or
to cannon and pocket both balls. This is done by a high ,
sharp, sudden in -side-stroke, causing the red to fly towards
the centre of the table, and your own ball to hug the
cushion to the Cannon, when both will roll together to
the pocket. In Pool many a player makes this stroke with
out intending it. By striking the in -side of the Object-ball,
and putting on a strong Side-stroke, your ball hugs the
cushion all the way ; but if you “kiss 'against the Object-ball
and cushion together, both balls will fly towards the centre .
 DIAGRAM LI

Cramp Strokes
înnonsacross the table suilar to those shown in Diaram XL17
 To dod

DIAGRAM LII

Cramp Strokes
I Canon and pooket the red & your man ball an eight stroke 2 Canon & pocket
CHAP. XI.] CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES. 127

A very favourite Ten -stroke (Diagram LIII.) is made by

placing the red over the middle pocket, and the white over the
end pocket. You then play froin baulk at the red , with a low
and decided in -side, pocket the red , cannon, and follow into the
pocket after the white. This Ten -stroke may be also made on
either side ; so that out of the proverbial sixty , I think I have
described about a third . The clever amateur will make for
himself such modifications of the strokes mentioned as will give
him another score.

ADVICE TO YOUNG PLAYERS.

In playing the regular game of Billiards it is bad policy to

pocket the white, except when you want to keep the baulk or
finish the game,as you have only one ball left to play at.
When you make a Winning Hazard, either at Pool or Bil
liards, play sufficiently hard to bring your ball away from the
pocket, in case you fail.
Measure the distance with your eye between your ball and
the pocket, and put on side' or divide the Object-ball
sufficiently to accomplish the stroke before you.
Make sure of your IIazard or Cannon, in preference to trying
risky experiments.
Safety is the grand thing to aim at in Pool. The good
player attempts few doubtful Hazards, and never goes in for
luck ' while there is anything else to play for.
Keep your Cuewell in hand, and beware of raising it too high .
It is a good plan in ‘ smashing ’ at the Pyramid , to take the
128 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. I.

Cue underhand , and drive full at the foremost ball. But I

need not tell you it is very risky.
Do not use Side-stroke when plain hitting will make the
Hazard or Cannon equally well. Jewels are not intended for
morning costume.
Before you play on a strange table try the strength of the
cushions and the balance of the balls. Look well to the tip of
your Cue and see that it is fast on , and dry. I remember a
noted sharper winning a game of a well-known statesman
by a very dirty but, unfortunately, common expedient. He
placed his wet finger on the tip of his opponent's Cue, when it
lay for an instant against the side of the table ! The noble
Viscount failed in his next stroke, and the sharper, having the
advantage, won the game !
When you get the ‘Spot-stroke' make all you can off it,
without reference to what your opponent may do when it
comes to his turn to play.
Hard hitting may give you luck, but it seldom wins a game
against judgment and care.
It is not good policy to vary the strength of your play too
often ; regularity in strength and good calculation are among
the grand secrets of successful Billiards.
Never dispute with the marker, but accept his decision as
final; and if you discover him playing tricks with the score,'
or betting on the game,mark for yourself.
Keep theballs well before you, and make your stroke in such
a way as to leave another Hazard after you have pocketed a
ball or made a Cannon .
When you are ahead of your opponent, and the red is safe ,
 DIAGEAM LIH

Ten Stroke
Canon and pocketall the balls. The direction ofthe que
shows the position: ot the player,
CHAP. XI.] CRAMP-STROKES AND TRICK -STROKES . 129

and he in hand, give a Miss in baulk : a judicious Miss often

saves a game.
Do not disturb the red when it lies under the cushion , and
you can make a Hazard off the white. In likemanner, when
your opponent is comfortably laid -up under the cushion , leave
him there, and play at the red .
The Side-stroke enlarges the pocket for the Losing Hazard ,
and not for the Winning Hazard .
Practise in your leisure hours, but never play when your
mind is distracted with business or affairs of state.'
Make the most of every break , and use the Rest as seldom
as may be.
Play coolly and discreetly ,and do not be tempted to venture
upon doubtful Hazards when an easy Cannon is before you.
An open game is generally more successful than a cramped
and cautious one.
Always strike the ball with an object : failure is the parent
of success.
Good execution cannot be attained without a thorough
knowledge of Strengths.
Do not bet with strangers, or accept offers from clever
markers to “play for just half-a -crown to begin with .'
Beware of the man who wants to show you a few fancy
strokes, and carries his chalk in his pocket !
Do not play for high stakes unless you can afford to lose
without grumbling.
Keep your temper !
 130 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

CHAPTER XII.

THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES .

Now to your games these altered rules apply ;

Nomerit theirs but pure simplicity . — WHITEHEAD.

F AHE Games most commonly played in England are

S 6 Billiards, Pool,and Pyramid. Foreign games have
has been occasionally introduced, and for a while have
been popular ; various adaptations of Pool have been received
with more or less favour ; and, from time to time, the so
called American and Russian games have had their little run
of success ; but after the éclat of novelty has worn off, players
have invariably gone back to Billiards proper.
Originally Billiards was played with two white balls ;
twelve or twenty points being made from Winning
Hazards only . This is now known as the White Winning
Game. To it succeeded a game equally simple and mono
tonous, the White Losing Game, in which the score was made
by Losing Hazards only. It was played twelve, fifteen, or
twenty points, each Hazard counting for one. Some happy
genius united the two games, made each Hazard count two
points, enacted certain penalties for misses and foul strokes,
and called it the Winning and Losing Hazard Game. Then
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 131

probably some travelled player brought the Cannon game from

France — where it was universal, and where it is even now the
popular Billard of the Cafés — and added it to the Winning
and Losing Game ; and hence made Billiards, as we play it
now all over the world .
Without troubling ourselves further about the simple games
that amused our ancestors, let us proceed to describe English
Billiards; that is, the Winning and Losing Carambole game,
or, as it is generally called,

BILLIARDS.

This game is played with three balls, two white and one
red. The white balls are easily distinguished from each
other by one of them having a minute black spot inserted
on one side. This ball is called the Spot-ball. The Game
ismade up of Winning and Losing Hazards, Cannons, Misses,
and various penalties for foul strokes. It is played 20,
30 , 40, 50 or 100 up — the ordinary game being fifty points.
For every Losing Hazard off the red ,and fora Winning Hazard
made by pocketing the red ball, three points are scored ; for
every White Winning or Losing Hazard,and for every Cannon,
two points are scored . Every Miss counts one against the player ,
every Coup three ; and all foul strokes are subjected to forfeits,
according to the rules which are here given.
The red ball is placed on the Spot at the commencement of
the game. The players then string for lead and choice of balls ;
and he who loses thelead either begins playing by striking the
red ball, or by giving a Miss in baulk. If the first player give
K 2
132 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

a miss, or fail to score off the red ball, the second player goes
on and tries to score by making a Hazard or Cannon. If he
succeed, he goes on scoring till he miss a stroke. And so
the game proceeds, each player making as many as he can off
his break till the allotted 50 (or 100) points be reached _ he
who first makes the required number winning the game.
Stringing for the Lead is done in this way : each player
places his ball within the baulk semicircle, and strikes it with
the point or butt-end of his Cue to the top -cushion ; and the
player of the ball which stops nearest to the cushion at
the baulk -end of the table wins the lead, and chooses his ball.
It is generally considered a slight disadvantage to lead off, as
there is only one ball, the red , to play at. But between equal
players, the advantage is so little that either of them start
without stringing. Where points are given , the receiver of
the points usually leads off ; but this is not imperative , as the
points are given to equalise the game.
The following Rules are revised from those furnished by
Messrs. Burroughes and Watts. I have endeavoured to
simplify and arrange them , so as to get rid of much of the
verbiage usually employed , and so render them plain to the
minds of beginners. The remarks and bye-laws, in smaller
type,are principally explanatory. As now altered , these Laws
are recognised at most of the Clubs, and by nearly all the
professional players.
 HOO
RED BALL

"

WH
IC SALL
OT
L
BAL
SP

Table arranged for Statile Pool.

CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 133

LAWS OF BILLIARDS.

The game commences by stringing for the lead and choice

e commences

of the balls.
· [ This rule applies to the White Winning Game, the White LosingGame,
and generally to all English Billiard-games. In stringing for the lead
the feet of the player should be behind the baulk , and not at the side of
the table. If one ball in stringing strike the other, the players must
string over again. ]

The red ball must be placed on the Spot, and replaced there
when it is holed, or forced over the edge of the table, or when
the balls are broken .
[“ The Spot' is the one nearest the cushion at the end of the table ,
opposite the baulk . : Breaking the Balls ' is the replacing them as at
the beginning of the game— the red on the Spot, and each player's ball
in hand — when he who has to break the balls, plays at the red, or gives
a Miss. The balls are said to be broken when the first player has struck
the red or given a Miss.]

III
The player who makes one stroke in a game must finish
that game, or consent to lose it.
[ This law is intended to meet cases of dispute, when he who refuses
to continue the game, loses — and pays for — it.]

IV

The striker who makes any points continues to play until

he ceases to score, by missing a Hazard or otherwise .
134 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

If, when the Cue is pointed, the ball should be moved

without the striker intending to strike, it must be replaced ;
and if not replaced before the stroke be played, the adversary
may claim it as a foul stroke.
[ That is to say , a ball moved accidentally must be replaced as nearly
as possible . This law is intended to meet cases in which a ball is under
a cushion, or angled in a corner. It is often of importance that the
precise position of a ball should be retained . The Marker,when appealed
to , must state whether the stroke be foul or fair. If the ball be moved
more than three inches, it is generally considered a stroke. If the striker
miss his own ball, he can make the stroke over again . ]

VI
If a ball spring from the table, and strike one of the players,
or a bystander, so as to prevent its falling on the floor, it must
be considered as off the table .
[ This is contrary to the practice of some Clubs, but I consider it a
very fair rule, as without the ball struck somebody, it would have fallen
to the floor. The penalty is the loss of the three points if the Striker's
ball has not first struck a ball on the table ; but if a ball has been so
struck , no forfeit can be claimed.]

VII

When a ball runs so near the brink of a pocket as to stand

there, and afterwards fall in , it must be replaced , and played
at, or with , as the case may be.
[ The challenging a ball, as in Bagatelle , is not allowed in Billiards.
If the ball roll into the pocket before the striker makes his next stroke,
he claims it, and the points made by it must be scored. The Marker ,
when appealed to, must decide as to the fairness of the stroke, or (when
a Marker is not present) any person mutually agreed to by the players;
such umpire not being interested , by wager or otherwise , in the issue of
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 135

the game. While any motion remain in the ball, it is considered to be

in play. Therefore the striker should not go on with his stroke till all
the balls are perfectly at rest. This explanation does away with a rule
usually given . ]
VIII

A ball lodged on the top of a cushion is considered off the

table.
[ This can scarcely happen on modern tables, but the law is necessary
to meet possible cases ; but if the ball roll back from the top of the
cushion on to the table, it is again in play. No person has any right to
take up a ball so placed till it either rests dead on the top of the cushion,
or falls to the ground. ]
IX
When the player's ball is off the table (in hand), and the
other two balls are in baulk , the possessor of the ball in hand
cannot play at the balls in baulk , but must strike his ball
beyond the semicircle, or play at a cushion out of baulk .
[ In such a case, the player may use a Butt, or play with the butt-end
of his Cue, and strike at a cushion out of baulk , so that his ball on its
return may hit the balls in baulk for a Cannon or Hazard. ]

A line-ball cannot be played at by the striker whose ball is

in hand.
[ A line-ball is when the centre of the ball is exactly on the line of
the baulk , in which case it is to be considered in the baulk , and cannot
be played at, except from a cushion out of the baulk . The Marker
must decide, if requested to do so . ]

XI

All Misses must be given with the point of the Cue, and
the ball is to be struck only once ; if otherwise given , the
136 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

adversarymay claim it as a foul stroke, and enforcethe penalty

- make the striker play the stroke over again — or have the
Ball from where it was struck the second time.
[ It is usual, however, to allow the player to give a Miss in baulk ,
with the butt- end of his Cue, when he plays his ball to the top- cushion. ]

XII
No player can score after a foul stroke.
[ The following are foul strokes : - If the striker move a ball in the act
of striking and fail to make a stroke ; or if he play with the wrong ball ;
or if he touch his own ball twice in playing ; or if he strike a ball while
it is running ; or if he touch his opponent's ball with hand or cue; or if
his feet be off the floor when playing. The penalty in all these cases
is losing the lead and breaking the balls. Enforcing the penalty for a
foul stroke is entirely at the option of the adversary.]

XIII

If the adversary neglect to enforce the penalty for a foul

stroke, the striker plays on , and scores all the points that he
made by the foul stroke — which the Marker is bound to score.
[ Thus, if a foul stroke be made, and not called , it cannot be enforced
after the next stroke is made. ]

XIV

Two points are scored for every White Hazard , two for
every Cannon , and three for every Red Hazard .
[In order that no mistakemay be made by young players, I give the
following explanations of the manner in which the points are scored :
If the striker pocket the white ball (called a White Winning Hazard ),
or if he pocket his own ball from the white ball (a White Losing Hazard ),
he gains two points ; if he pocket both balls, he gains four points. — If he
pocket the red ball (a Red Winning Hazard ),he wins three points ; and
if by the samestroke he pocket his own ball from the red (Red Losing
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 137

Hazard), he wins three more -- six in all. - If he play at the white bali
first,make a Cannon, and pockethis own ball,he gains four points : two
for the Cannon , and two for the White Losing Hazard .— Ifhe play at the
white ball first, and pocket his own ball and the red one, he gains five
points. — If he play at the white ballfirst,make a Cannon , and pocket the
red and white balls, he gains seven points. - If he play at the white ball
first,make a Cannon,and atthe same time pocket his own and his adver
sary 's ball, he wins six points : two for the Cannon , and two for each
White Hazard . — If he play at the white ball first, and pocket all the
balls without making a Cannon, he gains seven points. If he play at the
white ball first,make a Cannon ,and pocket all balls,hegainsnine points.
- If he play at the red ball first, and pocket it and his own ball, he
gains six points. — If he play at the red ball first, make a Cannon, and by
the same stroke pocket his own,ball,he gains five points : two for the
Cannon , and three for the Red Losing Hazard. — If he play at the red ball
first, make a Cannon , and pocket the red and the white ball, he gains
seven points. — If he play at the red ball first,make a Cannon , and at the
same time pocket his own and the red ball, he wins eight points : two
for the Cannon,three for the Red Losing, and three for the Red Winning,
Hazard . — If he play at the red ball first, and pocket his own and the
white ball, without a Cannon ,he gains five points. If he play at the red
ball first,and pocket all the balls,without a Cannon,he gains eightpoints.
- If he strike the red ball first, make a Cannon , and by the samestroke
pocket his own and both the other balls,hegains ten points, the greatest
number that can be gained by one stroke.]

XV

When the red ball is pocketed , or off the table,and the spot
on which it should stand is occupied by the white ball, the
red must be placed in a corresponding situation at the other
end of the table ; but if that should also be occupied by
the other white ball, the red must be placed on the spot in the
centre of the table, between the two middle pockets ; and
wherever it is placed , there it must remain, until it be played ,
or the gamebe over.
138 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII .

[ It is the custom in some Billiard Rooms, if the Spot be occupied by

the white ball, to place the red ball in the centre of the table ; but it is
more common to place it at the baulk -end, which situation is more
uniform with the regular way of playing the game.]

XVI

If a ball be moved by the striker in taking aim , such

moving of the ball must be considered a stroke.
This appears to be a contradiction of Law V , but there, it will be
remembered , the player did not intend to strike the ball moved : here
he is in the act of striking ; and if, while in the act of striking, the
ball be moved ever so little, it must be considered a stroke ; except, of
course, that your opponent may allow you to replace your ball and
amend your stroke. This applies equally whether the striker's ball be in
hand or not, and whether it goes out of baulk or remains in the semi
circle.]
XVII
If the player miss striking either ball he loses one point ;
and if by the same stroke his own ball run into a pocket,
he loses three points.
[ That is to say, his opponent scores the points forfeited by the Miss or
the Coup. All Misses count towards your adversary's game. See Note
to Law V . ]

XVIII
If the striker force his own or either of the other balls over
the table, after having struck the Object-ball, or after making
a Hazard or Cannon, he neither gains nor loses by the stroke,
and his adversary plays on without breaking the balls.

XIX

If the striker wilfully force his ball off the table without
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 139

striking another ball,he loses three points ; but if the ballgoes

over by accident, he loses one point only for the Miss.
[ This would appear a harsh rule, with a heavy penalty annexed to it ;
but, perhaps, the adverse party may have laid his planswith skill, and
must not, therefore, be unfairly frustrated with impunity . Besides,
care must be taken that the adversary be not a sufferer by the unfair
play or blunders of the striker. The Marker, or a disinterested
looker- on ,must decide as to the wilfulness of the act. It is not very
difficult to force your ball off the table , after contact with an Object
ball. It is done by striking your ball high, with a downward blow .
This has the effect of causing your ball to rise after contact. There is
no penalty attached to striking an Object-ball off the table in Billiards.
The rule is varied according to the custom of the Club or Room . ]

xx

If the striker play with the wrong ball, and a Cannon or

Hazard be made thereby, the adversary may have the balis
broken ; but if nothing be made by the stroke, the adversary
may take his choice of balls for the next stroke ; and with the
ball he chooses, he must continue to play till the game is over.

XXI

The fact of playing with the wrong ball must be discovered

before the next stroke is played ; otherwise no penalty
attaches to the mistake, and the player goes on and scores all
es On Coro

the Hazards he makes.

[ This is a very fair rule ; though it is difficult sometimes to know
when the balls were changed. In such a case, the players must continue
to play with the balls so changed .]
XXII

No person, except his adversary, has a right to inform the

player thathe has played , or is about to play,with the wrong TO
140 . . THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XII.

ball. Nor has any person authority to inform one player that
the other is playing ,or is about to play , with the wrong ball.
XXIII

If the adversary do not see the striker play with the wrong
ball, or, seeing it, do not choose to enforce the penalty, the
Marker is bound to score all the points that may have been
made by the stroke.
XXIV

If the striker's ball be in hand, and the other two balls

within the baulk , and should he, either by accident or design ,
strike either of them , without first playing out of the baulk ,
his adversary has the option of letting the balls remain as they
are, and scoring a Miss, — of having the ball so struck replaced
in its original position,and scoring a Miss, - of making the
striker play the stroke over again , — or of calling a foul stroke,
and making the player break the balls.
[ This penalty may appear rather heavy, and in ordinary play it is not
commonly enforced ; but as the one player may have considered it
beneficial to his game to pocket his opponent's ball and then to run into
baulk with the red, it would be very unfair to allow the other player to
disturb his plans by any mistake or wrong play. Breaking the balls is
supposed to place both players again on an equality. ]

XXV
If the striker's ball be in hand, he must not play at a
cushion within the baulk , in order to strike a ball that is out
of it.
[Should he do so , his opponent can insist on his playing the stroke
over again . ]
 CAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES, . 141
XXVI
When the striker plays at a ball near to his own with the
point of the Cue, the stroke is fair : but if he play it with the
butt-end, the Marker must decide whether the stroke be foul
or fair..
[All strokes are fair with the point of the Cue. The principle which
ought to govern the decision of the Marker in such a case is this,namely ,
that the striker's butt must quit his ball before it comes in contact with
the Object-ball. In pushing-strokes, the point or butt of the Cue must
only touch the ball once. If the ballbe touched and the Cue be with
drawn by ever so little, and the ball be again touched , pushed,or struck ,
such stroke is foul.]

XXVII

When a ball is on the brink of a pocket, if the striker in

drawing back his Cue knock the ball into the pocket, he loses
three points,as for a Coup.
XXVIII

In giving a Miss from Baulk, should the player failto strike

· his ball out of Baulk , his adversary may either let it remain
so, or compel him to play the stroke over again .
[ The Law applies to balls in -hand. If the player's ball be already
within the baulk -line, he can play it, with the point of his Cue, to any
part of the baulk ; and such ball cannot be struck by the other player,
if his ball be also in -hand, except he first play at a cushion out of baulk
Intentional Misses can be played either in baulk or out of it. The Miss
may be either played from the end or the side cushion . The usual way
is to play at the side- cushion with a Side- stroke, as shown at page 60. ]

XXIX

When the striker, in giving a Miss , makes a foul stroke, his

142 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XII.

adversary may claim it as such , and enforce the penalty . In

such a case, the point for the Miss is not scored .
[See note to Law XII. for foul strokes. ]

XXX
No person is allowed to take up a ball, during the progress
of a game, without permission of the adversary .
[ The player who illegally takes up a ball that is in play during the
progress of a game, loses the game. In fact, neither player is allowed to
touch a ball except it be in -hand : that is to say, he may not touch it in
order to alter its position, though he may lift it to ascertain whether it
be the spot or the plain ball, when any doubt exists as to its identity .]

XXXI
A ball in play that is moved by accident by either of the
players,or by a looker-on, or by the Marker,must be replaced ,
asnearly as possible, to the satisfaction of the player's adversary .
[ The Marker, or a disinterested bystander, may decide as to the
proper replacing of the ball. If a ball be moved from under a cushion,
either by accident or design, it must be replaced before the player make
his stroke. If, in the course of the game, a player or any other person
take up a ball, supposing it to be in hand, the adversary may break the
balls, or have them replaced to his own satisfaction . If the Marker, or a
bystander, touch either ball, whether it be running or not, it must be
placed as nearly as possible in the position it occupied, or would ap
parently have occupied . The meaning of these rules is that no ball in
play must be touched except with the point or butt of the Cue.]

XXXII

The striker loses the game if, after making a stroke, and
thinking the game over,be removes a ball that is in play from
the table.
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 143

[ This Law applies equally to all kinds of strokes. The striker can
only take the ball from the pocket, or from the hand of the Marker,
after the ball has been pocketed .]

XXXIII

The player may have the balls replaced if his adversary

accidentally take up a ball that is in play ; or he may insist on
his adversary breaking the balls.
[ In some rooms the penalty of losing the game is enforced upon the
non -player who takes up his adversary's ballwhen it is in play , whether
it be running or not.]
XXXIV

The player or non -player who wilfully removes a ball that

is in play from the table loses the game.
[In the last three rules I follow the general custom of the Clubs.]
XXXV
Neither the player nor his adversary is allowed to obstruct
the course of a ball in play , under the penalty of a forfeit for
a foul stroke and the breaking of the balls.
[ TheRules as given in the printed sheet are these ; but thewhole sense
of them is conveyed in Laws XXXIV . and XXXV. :
If, after the striker hasmade a Cannon or a Hazard, he take up the ball,
thinking the game is over, the adversary has the option of breaking the
balls, or having them replaced . — If, after the striker has made a Miss or
a Coup, he take up a ball,supposing the game to be over, he loses the
game.-- If, after the striker has made a Miss or a Coup, the adversary,
thinking the game is over, take up a ball, he ( the last striker )may have
the balls replaced as they were, or break the balls. — If, after the striker
has made a Cannon or Hazard , the adversary , thinking the game is over
when it is not, takes up a ball (whether running or not), he loses the
game. — If, after striking, the striker should obstruct or accelerate the
running of the balls in any way, it is at the adversary's option to make
114 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.
it a foul stroke, and break the balls, or have them replaced . — If, after
the striker has played , the adversary should obstruct or accelerate the
running of the balls in any way, he (the striker) may claim the right of
breaking the balls, or having them placed to his own satisfaction .]
XXXVI

If the striker's ball touch his opponent'sball or the red ball,

no score can be made, and the latter must break the balls.
[ The striker in this case may run his ball into a pocket, or make a
Cannon by playing it on to the third ball. If hedo either of these, the balls
must be taken up, and the red placed on the Spot, when the adversary
plays from Baulk , as at the beginning of the game; that is to say, he
breaks the balls. But if the striker fail to cannon or pocket his own ball,
all the balls remain , as they are when they cease rolling, and the other
player goes on as usual. It is necessary that the Marker or some dis
interested person should determine as to the balls touching, for they may
be very close together, and yet not actually touch each other. But the
fact is easily discoverable by placing the hand over the balls, and looking
at them in the shade so produced. If the red ball and the adversary's
ball touch each other, they may be played at by the striker.]
XXXVII

No person has a right to offer advice to the players during

the progress of the game. . .
[But if the Marker or a bystander be appealed to by one of the
players, he has then a right to give an opinion , whether he be interested
in the game or not ; and if a spectator sees the game marked wrong, he
has a right to mention it, provided he does it in time for it to be rectified,
but not afterwards. When the decision is once given , no further appeal
is allowed , under penalty of forfeiture of the game.
In the above thirty-seven Laws we have the whole substance and
intention of the sixty - two Rules usually printed. I venture to add
another. ]
XXXVIII

The decision of the Marker shall be final on all points of

CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 145

dispute, except when he is interested in the game by wagers,

& c. In such case, the decision of the majority of the lookers
on must be taken.
[Markers who are paid for marking should not be allowed to bet. ]

RULES FOR VISITORS.

1. Listen for the stroke before entering the room .

2. No person is allowed to walk about the Billiard Room
during the game, talk loud, make a noise, or otherwise annoy
the players.
sons
3. When silence is demanded, it is expected all persons
will comply therewith , or leave the room .
4 . It is expected that all persons in the room , whether they
are playing or not, will conform to the foregoing Laws, in so
far as they relate to them respectively.

ADVICE TO YOUNG PLAYERS.

It is generally considered bad play to pocket your adversary,

except when you want to keep the baulk or finish the game.
There are, of course, positions in which it would be good
policy to pocket the white ball ; but as,by so doing, you leave
only one(the red ) to play at, you reduce your chances by just
one-half. When , however, you can at the same stroke make
a Cannon and pocket the white, or when you can make a four
stroke by a double hazard, then I should say — do not allow
any scruple of its being, or not being, the game deter you from
146 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP . XII.

adding to your score. My plan is to leave no chance to my

opponent that I can fairly prevent.
If you are uncertain about your Side-stroke, do not attempt
to give the Miss from the side-cushion , but play at the red , and
endeavour to bring your own ball into baulk . Place your ball
on one of the end-spots of the baulk semicircle, and strike the
red by a half-ball ; the blow being given to your own ball just
above its centre. This will bring your ball back again into
baulk , and leave the red under the side-cushion , justabove the
middle pocket. You must practise this stroke, as it depends
entirely on the strength of your stroke whether your ball will
stop in the baulk , or rebound from the baulk -cushion again .
It is by no means difficult to bring both balls into baulk . A
half-ball on the red , pretty swiftly , will send each ball against
opposite side-cushions after contact, when they will cross each
other's lines at about the centre of the table, and drop quietly
below the baulk -line.
Many players endeavour, at the beginning of the game, to
score off the red — either by cutting it into the corner, or going
in off it with a heavy side-screw. If your opponent is your
equal in play, the experiment is risky , as you are pretty sure
to leave a Cannon if you miss the Hazard.
Every stroke should be made with a definite object, and if
there is no Hazard or Cannon apparent, play to leave yourself
safe. Never strike at the balls at random .
When you play back from the top-cushion , to strike a ball,
or tomake a Cannon in baulk ,remember the axiom — the angles
of incidence and reflection are equal to each other. This is
shown in Diagrams III., IV ., and V. You may either play
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 147

at the top-cushion by a single passage of the ball from Baulk

to the top-cushion and back again , or you may play with
sufficient strength to make your ball travel twice up and
down the table. Sometimes a little side' may have been
unconsciously placed on your ball, which will cause it to
diverge a little to the right or left after striking the cushion ;
and as the angle widens, you may get the Cannon or Hazard .
Always look well to the position occupied by your opponent's
ball before making a stroke of this kind, so that if you fail
your own ball may be safe.
It is often good policy, when you cannot score, to gently
strike your opponent's ball, or the red , so as to leave it under
the cushion .
With your opponent's ball off the table, it is generally
advisable, when there is no probable score off the red, to run
your ball into baulk off the red, and if possible lodge the red
also within the baulk -line.
When your opponent's ball is close under the cushion , play
at the red for a Cannon or Hazard . Many a game is lost by
playing at the wrong ball. As a general rule , play at the red
when you are behind in the game, and at the white when you
are ahead . But“ general rules,' you know, will only serve for
' general purposes.' Every stroke must be governed by the
particular position of the balls ; and in the mode of play much
must be left to the judgment of the player.
Be careful how you vary your style : without there is obvious
reason for a high or a low stroke, a side-stroke or a screw ,
play an ordinary stroke, and divide the Object-ball. Do not
experimentalize without a direct purpose. “ Slow and steady
2
148 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

often wins the race,"they say ; though I cannot but think that
Wn

the hare must have been very stupid to have let the tortoise
beat him .
It is generally believed that there are at least fifteen points
gained by luck in every game of fifty-up. Pay no attention
to general belief,but always try to do your best ; and then if
luck comes, accept it as you would an unexpected legacy . It
is the weakest of weak hopes, however, to put faith in flukes.
Nevertheless, no game is lost till it is won.
An advantageousMiss when you are under the cushion may
save your game. I remember many a time being at forty
save many

eight when my opponent has been at forty -nine with a doubt

ful Hazard : I give a Miss, and he plays at the red , and gene
rally fails to score; when I make a Cannon and win .
Remember that it is not only the Hazard before you that
you have to make, but the Hazards that will be left after your
stroke. Good judgment in anticipating the consequences of
your stroke is therefore a primary cause of success. White
Winning Hazards should be played gently, so that, should
you fail to make them , your opponent's ballmay be left under
the cushion . Red Winning Hazards should, on the contrary ,
be made with strength enough to bring the ball away from
the cushion, if you do not succeed in lodging it in the
pocket. Knowledge of Strengths, as I have already said , is
half the battle at Billiards.
After what has been written , it is perhaps hardly necessary
for me to warn you : — not to bet with the Marker if you do
not want to lose, or to make him your equal — not to play for
heavy stakes with strangers, unless you have moremoney than
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 149

wit - not to keep your cue without chalk , unless you wish
to lose the game — not to be seduced into ordinary conversa
tion during play, unless you have a particular desire to pay for
the game — not to run extraordinary risks for the sake of ordi
nary chances — not to give up a game when there is the
slightest hope of retrieving your position — not to try showy
strokes when plain ones will do as well (a man does not
usually put on white kids and patent-leathers for a morning
walk in the fields) — and especially , not to lose your temper and
dispute the score! Nothing shows the tyro so soon as that.

THE MATCH OF FOUR.

This is ordinary Billiards played by four players in sides of
two each . It is usual either for each player to go on in turn ,
so soon as the one fails to make a Hazard or Cannon : or for a
player on each side to continue playing till he is put out by a
Winning or Losing Hazard ; by giving two Misses without an
intervening Hazard or Cannon ; or by running a Coup. Of
course the player must make a stroke before he can be put out,
notwithstanding the length of his opponent's break . The rules
are the same as in Billiards, except that each partner may
advise the other, so long as he does not touch or place his
ball, or either of the others. For four persons this is a more
lively game when each takes his turn , without waiting for the
player on the other side making a Hazard.
150 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

“ A LA ROYALE ’ — THE GAME OF THREE.

This is Billiards played by three persons, each scoring his
own game. The Rules are the same as in Billiards ; all forfeits
by Misses, Coups, & c. being added to the score of each adver
sary. He who first gets the allotted number of points,wins
the game ; when the other two either play on , or forfeit a
game each ,asmay be agreed at starting. When two of the
players are so near each other as that a forfeiture from a Miss
or Coup by the third player would make up their scores, the
one whose next turn it is to play wins the game in case of
such a forfeit being scored .
The manner of playing the game is this : ~ All the players
string for the lead, and he whose ball is nearest the cushion
after stringing, has the choice of position . Of course the most
advantageous place is second or last of thethree , as then he has
two balls to play at; the next nearest has the second choice,
and the farthest leads off. The red ball is spotted , and the
player whose chance it is to break the balls, either plays at
the red ,or gives a Miss in the usual way. The next player
goes on with the other ball,and scores asmany as he can ;
and then the third plays with the ball the first played with ,
the first with that of the second, and so on , each playing in
turn , and the ball being changed alternately — each player
making as many as he can by Hazards and Cannons during his
turn . When the players are of unequal strength, they can be
handicapped , by allowing the best to play 50-up, the second
(say) 40,and the third (say) 30. The game can be played for
any number of points agreed on ; 50 is the usual number.
Chap. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 151

HANDICAP SWEEPSTAKES.

For a mixed party of ladies and gentlemen, or for players

of various strength , Handicap is a capital game. It is regular
Billiards, each player having hisown scoremarked on the slate
of themarking-board . Having determined on the number to
be played up, each player has placed against her or his name
the number at which he starts. Suppose half-a -dozen or
eight play, and the points are 100-up ; the board would be
marked thus:

1. Hon .Miss Ponsonbye

2 . Lord Pimlico . .
3. Miss Rose Earlybird
4. R . H . Skevington .
5. Colonel Harkaway .
6. Sir James Travailler
7. G . T . H . Wynter . . . . . 25
8. Captain Crawley · · . . : 0

The red ball is spotted , and the Hon. Miss Ponsonbye breaks
the balls. Lord Pimlico follows and scores a Hazard or Cannon,
when 2 are marked against his name. He ceases to score, and
then No. 3 goes on, followed by No. 4 ; and so on alternately,
each score being marked at the end of each player's break .
The one who first reaches the appointed 100 wins the game.
In case of Misses or Coups, one point or three points,asmay
happen , is deducted from the player's score. In some com
panies the forfeit-points are added to the scores of all the
players, but this is troublesome and unnecessary. When two
white balls touch there can be no score made, and the player
152 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

may run into a pocket without forfeit, when the next must
break the balls. All the rules of ordinary Billiards govern
this very amusing game. Handicap Sweepstakes is very popular
in some clubs and public-rooms,but of course the handicapper
should be acquainted with the relative strengths of the players.
Some SC
I have seen the game played in some country-houses with as
manyas a dozen competitors,for a sixpenny stake for each player.
It is astonishing what excitementand speculation it occasions,as
the chances rise and fall, and some favourite player gets a
good break. Where ladies contend, the game is a delightful
one — as what game, indeed , is not in which they join ?

THE WHITE WINNING GAME.

This gameis played with two balls, and consists simply of
White Winning Hazards. It is usually played 12 , 15 , or 20
up. It is dull and uninteresting,but in order to make mybook
complete, I give the rules by which it is governed :

RULES OF THE WHITE WINNING GAME.

I

The players string for the lead, and he who loses the lead
places his ball on themiddle spot.
[ The usualrules that govern the stringing for lead are observed : - If
the second player, in stringing ,make his ball touch that of the other
player ; or if he follow it with Cue or Butt beyond the middle pocket ;
or if he run into a pocket, the string must bemade over again . But all
trouble in stringing for lead may be avoided by the simple and elegant
expedient of'head or woman !']
Chap. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 153

II

The player loses one point by missing the Object-ball,and

S

two points for every Losing Hazard .

[Of course if he miss the ball and run into a pocket he loses three
points — one for the Miss, and two for the Hazard. ]

III

The player scores two points by pocketing his opponent's

ball, or by forcing it over the table.
[I think the points for forcing the balls over the table should be
abolished, as on some old tables it is easy to accomplish this not very
dexterous feat. ]
IV

If the player pocket both balls, or force them both over the
table, he loses two points.

The player who touches his own ball by accident must

replace it ; but if he move his ball in the act of striking, and
miss his opponent's ball, one point is scored against him for a
Miss.
[ The whole art and mystery of the game lies in this — that every
Winning Hazard counts two to the player's side, and every Losing
Hazard counts two to his opponent. It is, in fact, Single Pool, with
twelve Lives instead of three, and, except it be played for money , is very
slow work indeed . All you have to do is to play straight at the ball,
by side' or division . ]
VI

Each ball,after it is pocketed ,must be placed on the middle

spot, the player with the other ball going on from Baulk.
154 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.
VII

The Baulk is extended to the whole Baulk -line, and is not

confined to the semicircle merely.
[ This Rule is generally observed at the Clubs, but it has never before
been given in print.]
VIII

If the player force his own ball over the table, without first
striking that of his opponent, he loses two points ; but if his
ball go over the table after striking the other ball,no forfeit is
demanded , and his ball is spotted as before.
[ This also is a Rule not given in the printed sheets. ]

THE WHITE LOSING GAME .

This is the reverse of the preceding game, and is equally
uninteresting. It is played with two balls, the points being
reckoned by Losing Hazards and Forfeits. It is played 12,
15 , or 20 -up. As a game for practice , it is useful perhaps,
but I never play it. The following are the

RULES FOR THE WHITE LOSING GAME.

String for the lead, as in the other games.

The player loses one point for every Miss, two for every
Winning Hazard, and two for a Coup.
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 155

[ Thus you may lose four by pocketing both balls. In Kentfield 's
book he says you gain four points for a double Winning Hazard ; but
this is an evident mistake.

III

After every Hazard the ball must be placed on the middle

spot, and the next player goes on from Baulk .

The player wins two points for every Losing Hazard .

[ Thus if you make the double Losing Hazard , you gain four points.]

If the player pocket the Object-ball, and force his own off
the table,he loses four points ;but if his own ball goes off the
table without that of his opponent being holed , no forfeit is
exacted . Both balls forced off the table is a loss to the player
of four points.
VI

The Baulk is within the line, and not the semicircle merely .

THE RED WINNING CANNON GAME.

This game is played with three balls, and the points are
made by Winning Hazards and Cannons ; all Losing Hazards,
Misses, Coups, & c. counting against the player. It is played
by two or four players, 25, 30 , or 40-up. Much more judg
ment is required in this game than in the last two described .
In principle it is precisely the same as Billiards, the
156 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

object of the player being to make Winning Hazards and

Cannons, and to avoid forcing his own ball into a pocket.
As an exercise for Winning Hazards it is very useful, though
as a game it is much inferior to the Winning, Losing, and
Cannon Game (Billiards). Much use may be made of the
Doublet in this game, and also of the Side-stroke and the
Division of the Object-ball. Care and good judgment are
requisite for regulating each stroke, and a good break may be
made at starting, from the fact that the red is spotted in the
centre of the table. Knowledge of the angles and a proper
regard for the side ' may make this a very interesting game.
If you happen to get near the middle of the table , you may
make a succession of Winning Hazards into either of the six
m
pockets, for they are all open ; and you may so manage
with a series of Stop-strokes, hit low with a good drawback,
as to accomplish ten or a dozen Hazards. In this respect the
game offers advantages superior to Billiards, or even to the
American Game. In the latter the red is spotted on the lower
of the two spots above the middle pockets. The art of making
Winning Hazards depends a good deal on the suddenness of
the stroke. Do not pause long over a Winning Hazard, or
you will miss it. Take a sharp look at your ball and the
pocket,and make the stroke with a decided and full impetus,
low upon your ball, without the slightest Following action.
Young players usually succeed better with Winning than with
Losing Hazards, for the simple reason that they are fearless of
consequences, and full of their newly -acquired skill. I have
seen young players also strike a ball well into the pocket, and
fail when they attempt to drop ' it in . This arises from
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 157
want of accuracy in striking the slow ball, whereas in the
hard stroke the force employed sends the ball straight to the
pocket. It is only after long practice that this dropping '
action can be fully acquired. It is necessary to hit your
ball rather below its centre with a decided aplomb, but not
too hard. It is the degree of strength necessary for the
Hazard that is difficult to learn . And then so many circum
stances may arise to defeat your intention . An extra glass
of wine, a little over-excitement, a slight degree of nervous
ness, too much haste, the temperature of the room , a damp
cue, or an imperfect or ill- chalked tip — any of these may
cause you your failure. Any uncertainty of action , or the
frequent pause between the taking of the sight of the ball
and the delivery of the Cue, may be fatal to success . Indeed ,
there is so much affinity between Billiards and Rifle-shooting,
that I can only recommend to the player the ordinary advice
given by the volunteer instructor — “ Take your sight and fire
at once, without hesitation, fear, or doubt.'
But I must avoid the literary sin of digression and repetition,
and so I give you the
RULES OF THE RED WINNING CANNON GAME.

The stroke and the choice of balls must be strung for.

II

The red ball is to be placed on the middle spot.

III
The white or player 's ball is to be played from the baulk
semicircle .
158 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

IV

After the first player has played, his adversary is to play

next, and so on alternately ; or the striker is to follow his
gaining stroke, as may have been previously agreed .

If the player miss both balls, he loses one point ; if by the

same stroke he strike his own ball into a pocket, he loses three
points .
VI

If the player hit the red ball and his adversary 's ballwith
his own ball, he wins two points for a Cannon.

VII

If the player hole his adversary's ball, he wins two points.

VIII

If the player hole the red ball,he wins three points.

If the player hole his adversary's ball and the red ball by
the same stroke, he wins five points — two for the white, and
three for the red ball.

If the player make a Cannon ,and at the same time pocket

his adversary's ball, he wins four points — two for the Cannon ,
and two for holing the white ball.
CHAP. XII. 7 THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 159

XI
If the player make a Cannon,and at the same time hole the
red ball, he wins five points — two for the Cannon, and three
for the red ball.
XII

If the player make a Cannon, and by the same stroke hole

both his adversary's and the red ball, he wins seven points
two for the Cannon, two for the white, and three for the red
Hazard .
XIII

If the player force either his adversary 's or the red ball
over the table , and by the same stroke hole his own ball, he
counts nothing, but makes no forfeit.

XIV

If in playing a stroke the striker should make his Cue touch

two balls at the same time, it is a foul stroke, and if discovered
by the adversary , he wins nothing for any points he may have
made by the stroke ; and his adversary may break the balls,
and play from the Baulk on the red ball, as at the beginning
of the game. But if upon the foregoing stroke, which is
deemed foul, his adversary does not break the balls, or play
from the proper spot, & c., then the striker reckons all the
points hemade by the stroke.

XV

If the player make a foul stroke, and at the same time

hole his own ball, he loses two or three points, according to
160 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

which ball he struck first — three for the red , and two for the
white.
XVI

After a red ball has been holed or forced over the table,
the player is bound to see the ball placed on its proper spot
again, before he strikes ; otherwise he can win no points while
the ball is out of its place, and the stroke he made is foul.

XVII

After the player has made either a Cannon or a Hazard , if he

should touch either of the balls with his hand, Cue, or person,
he gains no points, and the stroke is foul.

XVIII

If the striker play with the wrong ball, the stroke is foul.

XIX
If the striker play with the wrong ball, and his error be not
discovered by his adversary, he reckons all the pointshe made
by the stroke.
XX

If the striker is about to play with the wrong ball, no one O

has a right to discover his error to him , except his partner, if

they are playing a Four-match .
XXI

If the striker play with the wrong ball, and at the same time
make a Losing Hazard , he loses either two or three points,
according to which ball he struck first.
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 161
161

XXII

If the striker play with the wrong ball and miss both the
remaining balls, he loses one point ; and if the ball should go
into the pocket by the stroke, he loses three points. . .
The other Rules and Regulations are the same as in ordinary
Billiards.

THE RED LOSING CANNON GAME.

This game is the reverse of the last — the Losing Hazards
and Cannons counting for the player, and all the Winning
Hazards counting against him . It is ' played 25 or 30-up,
with three balls, either by two or four players. Perhaps,
of the two, this requires more judgment than the Winning
Hazard Game. A good defence is necessary, and in
order to avoid pocketing your own ball or that of your
opponent, it will be well to play with less strength than is usual
for Winning Hazards. Here it will generally be found best to
strike your ball rather above than below its centre, in order to
cause it to travel in the direction intended. The remarks
made in the chapters devoted to Losing Hazards and Cannons
ons

apply particularly to this game. Especial attention should be

given to the angles from the cushion, and also to those between
the Striker's-ball and the Object-ball. This gameis frequently
played by professors against amateurs, the former giving to
the latter the advantage of the Winning Hazards. Between
ordinary players it is by no means an uninteresting game,
the frequent forfeits adding to its excitement and amusement.
162 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

RULES OF THE RED LOSING CANNON GAME .

The red ball is placed on the Middle Spot, and the players
string for the lead .
[In some rooms the red ball is placed on the regular Winning Spot,
as in Billiards; but I think the Centre Spot is preferable — as then the
player may make a Hazard at starting, instead of giving a Miss.]

II
If the player miss both balls, he loses one point ; and if he
pocket his own ball by the same stroke, he loses three points.
III

If the player pocket the red ball, he loses three points,and

the red ballmust be replaced upon its proper Spot.
IV
If he pocket the white ball, he loses two points.

If the player, by the same stroke, hole both the red and
the white ball, he loses five points — two for the white and
three for the red ball.
VI

If the player make a Cannon , he wins two points.

VII
If the player make a Cannon and pocket either of the
Object-balls,he wins nothing for the Cannon , and loses either
wins
 CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 163

two or three points, as he may have struck the red or the

white ball first.
VIII

If the striker play at the white ball first,make a Cannon , and

at the same time pocket his own ball, he wins four points
two for the Cannon , and two for his Losing Hazard .
IX
. If the striker play first at the red ball, make a Cannon, and
also pocket his own ball, he wins five points — three for the
Losing Hazard off the red ball, and two for the Cannon .

When the player's ball touches either of the others,no score

can be made, and the next player must break the balls.
[ The rest of the Rulesand Regulations are the same as in Billiards.
Each partner, in a Game of Four, may advise the other. Each player
takesalternate strokes,and twoconsecutive Misses,withoutan intervening
Hazard — not a Cannon — put him out. Each player continues his break
till he fails to score. This game and also the Winning Cannon Game
may be played as a Handicap by any number of ladies and gentlemen,
in themanner described on p. 151.]

POOL .

Next to Billiards, Pool is the most fashionable game at the

Clubs and in private houses. Of late it has somewhat fallen
off in popularity in the public-rooms of London . And for a
very simple reason : the sharpers and flat-catchers are so good
M 2
164 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

at Winning Hazards, and so clever at making wagers, that

ordinary players stand but small chance with them . I have
noticed, too, that they not unfrequently favour each other.
This was so much the case at the rooms taken by a cele
brated player, not a thousand miles from the Alhambra, that
the company broke up , and the renting of the rooms failed as
a monetary speculation. If two or three players determine to
assist each other and to make common cause against the
remaining four or five, why it is but a poor look -out for the
latter. When you observe any indication of this sort of thing ,
it will be time for you to recollect your engagement with a
friend to dine at his club , or the absolute necessity of fetching
your wife or your cousin from the opera ! I do not mean to
say that sharping and flat-catching are universal in public
rooms : on
TO01 the contrary , I know some West -end and City
houses where professional players are not allowed to play,
except in regularly-made matches ; but I do mean to say that
in some public -rooms I could name, a stranger is looked upon
as fair game for the regular frequenters. Of course if you are
a good Winning Hazard -striker, you have little to fear ; but,
equally of course, if you are only an ordinary player you must
expect to pay rather dearly for your amusement if you take a
ball at Pool in public-rooms with persons of whose strength
of play you are necessarily ignorant.
Pool is played in various ways: — as with two balls, each
striker playing in turn ; playing at the nearest ball ; playing
at any ball the striker chooses, as in Pyramids ; and playing at
the last player, each striker having a coloured or numbered
ball. This last is the most popular and scientific game, and
CHAP. XII.) THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 165

the one which needs fullest description. It is known univer

sally in Great Britain as Pool, and may be played by two or
more persons : I consider seven or eight the best number.
When the amount of the stake to be played for is de
termined, each player has given to him a ball which is dis
tinguished by a colour or number - usually a colour ; and at
starting he has three chances or “Lives.' The balls are given
out from a bottle-shaped basket or bag by the marker or
umpire, who also takes from the players their several stakes.
In public-rooms the Pool is usually three shillings, and the
Lives one shilling each ; though, of course,both Pool and Lives
may be increased or decreased at the pleasure of the players.
The charge for the table is deducted from the sum -total of
the stakes at the end of the game : threepence a ball is the
usual charge for the table.
Each player being provided with a ball, the white is placed
on the Spot at the end opposite to the Baulk , and the red plays
at it from the Baulk Semicircle. If the player pocket thewhite
he receives the price of a Life from the owner of thewhite ; but
if he fail to make the Winning Hazard , the next player, the
yellow, plays upon him ; and so on alternately, till there are
only two players left in the Pool, from the rest having lost all
their Lives. These two players may either, if they have each
an equal number of Lives, divide the stakes, or play out the
Pool till one wins the whole sum staked . It is usual for the
last player, if he has an equality of Lives with the one who
precedes him , to claim a " division ; ' the latter then ceases to
play ; and the stakes are divided between them , minus the
charge for the table. The order of the balls and the players
166 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

is generally as follows; I give a long game of fourteen players

for the sake of illustration :
The WHITE BALL is spotted .
RED BALL plays upon . . . White .
YELLOW , Rev.
BLUE YELLOW .
BROWN BLUE .
GREEN . Brown .
BLACK GREEN .
SPOT-WHITE , BLACK .
SPOT- RED , SPOT -WHITE .
SPOT- YELLOW ,, SPOT- RED .
SPOT -BLUE , SPOT- YELLOW .
SPOT- BROWN , SPOT- BLUE .
SPOT-GREEN » SPOT-BROWN.
SPOT-BLACK , SPOT-GREEN ; and
WHITE : . Spot-BLACK .
It is not common for a greater number than eight or ten
to play Pool, as the waiting for the stroke is tedious. Each
player should remember the order of his play ; but it is
usual for the Marker or Umpire to call the game thus : — Red
plays upon White, and Yellow 's your player ; '“ Yellow plays
upon Red, and Blue's your player.' And when a ball has been
pocketed, and the next striker has to play upon the ball next
in order , the Marker states the fact thus — Green upon Brown,
and Black's your player, in hand ;' and so on throughout.
When a player takes a Life — that is, pockets the ball he
plays upon — he then plays at the ball nearest to his own ball,
when it has ceased to roll ; and if he also pocket that, he
plays again upon the nearest ball ; and so on as long as he can
continue to score. The player loses a Life, to the player
whose ball he aims at, if he run into a pocket and make a
Chap. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 167

Losing Hazard after contact, or if he make a Coup, or force

his own ball off the table ; and hewins a Life for every ball he
legally pockets. The price of each Life is paid by the player
losing it, immediately the stroke is made. When any player
has lost all his Lives, he may Star, or purchase as many Lives
as is possessed by the player lowest in number. Thus, if the
smallestnumber on the Marking-board be one, the purchaser of
the Star has one fresh Life given him ; and for this Star he
pays an amount equal to his original stake. If the lowest
number be two, the Star has two Lives. In the regular Pool
Marking-board, there is a distinguishing sign for the Star, as
well as white and coloured spots corresponding with the
several balls.
With this much of explanation, I may now give you the
Rules regularly authorised and acknowledged at the Clubs.
The remarks within brackets are, as before, intended to assist
the amateur in fully comprehending the game:
THE LAWS OF POOL .

When coloured balls are used , the players must play pro
gressively , as the colours are placed on the Pool Marking
board, the top colour being No. 1.
[ I give this Law as I find it ; but in practice, coloured balls are almost
invariably employed ; the old plan of numbering white balls for Pool
went out of fashion long ago.]
II
Each player has three Lives at starting. No. 1 places his ball
on the winning and losing ' spot; No. 2 plays at No. 1 , No. 3
168 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

at No. 2, and so on - each person playing at the last ball :

unless the striker's ball be in hand, when he plays at the
nearest ball.
[ I have already explained this. The white ball is spotted, and the
red plays at it from the baulk semicircle ; the yellow plays on the red ,
and so till it comes to the white's turn to play upon the last striker . If
it should happen — as it often does— that the white or any other ball is
pocketed before it has had a stroke, it is played from baulk , when its
turn comes, at its proper ball; or, if that is in -hand, at the ball nearest
to the centre spot on the baulk -line. ]

III

When a striker loses a Life , the next in rotation plays at the

ball nearest to his own. But if this player's ball be in hand ,
he plays at the ball nearest to the centre of the baulk -line,
whether it be in or out of baulk .
[Of course the player whose ball is in -hand can place it where he
chooses, so long as it is within the semicircle. ]

IV

When any doubt arises as to the nearest ball, the Marker

measures the distance, and the player strikes at the ball
declared to be nearest his own.
[ThisLaw is usually given in rather involved terms. For the sake of
those who prefer diffuseness to brevity, I add it in the words of the
printed sheet : - Should a doubt arise respecting the distance of balls, it
(the distance) must (if at the commencement of the game, or if the
player's ball be in hand) be measured from the centre spot in the semi
circle ; but if the striker's ball be not in hand, the measurement must be
made from his ball to the others, and in both cases it must be decided
by the Marker , or by the majority of the company ; but should the
distance be equal, then the parties must draw lots as to which ball shall
be played at. ]
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 169

V
The Baulk is no protection .
[ The meaning of this is, that the player whose ball is in hand, may
play from the semicircle at any ball within the baulk -line, supposing
such ball to be nearest to the centre spot.]

The player loses a Life : — by pocketing his own ball off

another ; by running a Coup ; by missing the ball played
on ; by forcing his ball off the table ; by playing with the
wrong ball ; by playing at the wrong ball ; by playing out
of his turn ; by striking the wrong ball; or by having his
ball pocketed by the next striker.
[Except he be wrongly informed by the Marker or Umpire as to his
turn to play : in such a case he would not lose a Life.]

VII

Should the striker pocket the ball he plays at,and by the

same stroke pocket his own, or force it over the table, he
loses a Life, and not the person whose ball he pocketed .
[ The ball so pocketed remains in hand till the striker's turn to play
arrives. ]
VIII

Should the player strike the wrong ball, he pays the same
forfeit to the person whose ball he should have played at as he
would have done if he had pocketed himself.
[ That is to say, the player whose ball ought to have been struck, receives
a Life of the striker who makes the mistake ; always excepting a case in
which he has been wrongly informed as to the proper ball to play at. ]
170 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

IX

If the striker miss the ball he ought to play at, and by the
same stroke pocket another ball, he loses a Life,and not the
person whose ball he pocketed ; in which case the striker's
ball must be taken up, and both balls remain in hand until it
be their several turns to play.
[ In all cases in which the striker is misinformed by the Marker, or
other person having charge of the game, as to the right ball to play at,
or the right turn or time to play, no Life is lost by the striker. But
when so wrongly informed , no Life can be claimed of the player whose
ball is pocketed or forced over the table. ]

If the player inquire as to which is his ball, or if it be his

turn to play, the Marker,or the players,must give him the
information sought.
[ It would be manifestly unfair to allow a striker to play at, or with,
the wrong ball. ]
XI

If the striker,while taking aim , inquire which is the ball he

ought to play at,and should be misinformed by the Marker,
or by any of the company, hedoes not lose a Life. His ball
must, in this case, be replaced, and the stroke played again .
[ The more common plan is for the ball so played to remain in-hand
till the striker's turn arrive. In many rooms, however, the balls are
replaced , and the striker is allowed to play his stroke over again . This
must bearranged by mutual agreement.]
XII
When a ball,or balls, touch the striker's ball, or are in line
between it and the ball he has to play at, so that it will
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 171

prevent him hitting any part of the Object-ball, such ball or

balls must be taken up until the stroke be played ; and after
the balls have ceased running, they must be replaced .
[When a ball is required to be taken up, it is the business of the
Marker to mark the precise spot occupied by each ball removed . This
is done with a wet finger, or with the point of the chalked Cue.]

XIII
If a ball or balls are in the way of a striker's Cue, so that
he cannot play at his ball, he can have them taken up .
[ This is a wide direction . The plan in practice is to allow any ball
to be removed which interferes with the free action of the striker's hand
or arm , or which prevents his making a full stroke upon the Object-ball.
• Any ' ball of course means 'every ' ball that may so interfere with the
free play of the striker. Thus, if his ball be angled , he may insist on
the removal of any, or every, ball which prevents him playing from a
cushion on to the Object-ball. In some Clubs and public-rooms an
angled ball is allowed to be removed an inch or two from the corner ;
but with a ball so removed the striker cannot take a Life. ]

XIV

When the striker takes a Life, he continues to play on as

long as he can make a Winning Hazard , or until the balls are
all off the table ; in which latter case, he places his own ball
on the Spot as at the commencement.
[ The player wins a Life by pocketing the Object-ball, or forcing it off
the table. In some Clubs it has been decided — of course by agreement
of all the players — that the forcing a ball off the table shall not entitle
the player to a Life; but as any one trying to do so stands a chance
of his own ball following after the one so struck, I think the Rule had
better be allowed to remain undisturbed.]
172 THE BILLIARD BOOK. (CHAP. XII.

XV

The first player who loses his three Lives is entitled to pur
chase, or Star, by paying into the Pool a sum equal to his
original stake, for which he receives Lives equal in number to
the lowest number of Lives on the board .
[ Thus, if the Pool is half-a -crown each, the player who Stars pays
half-a -crown for the privilege. ]

XVI

If the player first out refuse to Star, the second player out
may do so ; but if the second refuse, the third may Star ;
and so on , until only two players are left in the Pool, when
the privilege of Starring ceases.
[ In practice, when three players are left in the Pool, the first out
always Stars, when by so doing he obtains an equal number of Lives to
the others; but if he be a good player , he Stars one Life to the two each
of the other players; and if one have two Lives, and the other one, he
would probably Star, especially if he has to play upon the ball with the
higher number. ]

XVII

Only one Star is allowed in a Pool.

[ In family games, however, I have seen two or three Stars allowed ,
just to give greater zest to the Pool. ]

XVIII

If the striker move his own or any other ball,while in the

actof striking, the stroke is foul; and if by the same stroke he
pocket a ball, or force it off the table, the owner of that ball
does not lose a Life, and the ball so pocketed must be placed
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 173

on its original spot. But if by that foul stroke the player

pocket his own ball, or force it off the table , he loses a Life.
[ A ballmoved by accident is generally considered foul, and the striker
does not lose a Life ; but he is not allowed to take one by that stroke.
The Marker must decide, when called upon, as to foul strokes. Other
wise than when appealed to, the Marker is not allowed to give advice or
make observations on the game. His duty is to call and mark the game,
not to interfere with its progress. No paid Marker should be allowed to
bet on the game.]

If the striker 's ball touch the one he has to play at, he is at
liberty either to play at it,or at any other ball on the table,
and such stroke is not to be considered foul ; in such a case,
however, the striker loses a Life by running his ball into a
pocket, or forcing it over the table.
[If the striker play at the ball which touches his own, he may simply
move it by playing gently at his own ball, or hemay play his ball away
to the cushion without forfeiting a Life. When balls are believed to
touch , the Marker should be appealed to before the stroke is made, in
order to prevent any after-question as to the correctness of the stroke.]

XX
If, after making a Hazard , the striker take up his ball, or
stop it before it has done running, he cannot claim the Life for
the ball pocketed .
[ The reason for this Law is that the ball so stopped or taken up might
have run into a pocket. This Rule applies more particularly to cases in
which two players only are left in the Pool. Suppose a player to have
two Lives to his opponent's one, and after pocketing the one Life to stop
or take up hisball, the player with the single Life may insist on a division.]
174 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

XXI
If before a Star, two or more balls, each having one Life , are
pocketed by the same stroke, the owner of the first ball struck
can Star ; but if he refuse, the other player whose ball was
pocketed may Star.
[Of course this means that the ball properly played at shall be
pocketed , even though it run into a pocket, after the others have been
noted. The Law is to determine the priority of the players to the
privilege of Starring. ]
XXII

Should the striker's ball stop on the place from which a

ball has been taken up, the ball which has been removed must
remain in hand until the Spot is unoccupied, when it is to be
replaced .
[ This will not often occur. The Marker must be careful to mark the
place of each ball removed . ]

XXIII
Should the striker's ball miss the ball played at, no person ,
except the striker, is allowed to stop the ball till it has ceased
running , or struck another ball.
[Of course the striker, having lost a Life, may stop his ball as soon
as the Miss is made; but no other person may stop it, as it might pos
sibly hit the Object-ball before it had ceased running.]

XXIV
Should the striker have his next player's ball removed, and
his own ball stop on the spot it occupied ,the next player must
give a Miss from Baulk , for which Miss he does not lose a Life .
[ In some rooms the player may have the ball taken up, and place
his own on the spot so occupied, the next player replacing his ball
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 175

when the spot is unoccupied . This appears the fairest plan. The
player whose ball has been so removed , and his position occupied ,
would generally give a Miss under a cushion at a distance from the
ball next to play upon his.]

XXV
When a ball has been taken up, and any other than the
next player's ball stop on the spot it occupied , the ball so
taken up must remain in hand till it can be replaced. But if
it be the turn of the ball in hand to play before the one occu
pying its proper place, the latter must be taken up till there
be room to replace it.
[I am not sure that this is quite plain . The old Law is this :- “ If the
striker has a ball removed, and any other than the next player 's ball
should stop on the spot it occupied , the ball removed must remain in
hand till the one on its place be played - unless it should happen to be
the turn of the one removed to play before the one on its place , in which
case, that ballmust give place to the one originally taken up ; after
which it may be replaced .' — I have endeavoured to make this under
standable ; but themotif of both the old Law and the new is, that any
ball removed , to allow a striker to play,must be replaced as soon as its
spot is vacant. ]
XXVI
If the corner of the cushion should prevent the striker from
playing in a direct line, he can have any ball removed for the
purpose of playing at the Object-ball from a cushion.
[' Any ' includes every,' if need be, except the player's ball and the
Object- ball,as already explained in my note to Law XIII.]

XXVII
When three players, each with one Life, remain in a Pool,and
the striker make a Miss, the other two divide without a stroke.
176 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

[ This Law is intended to meet a possible case of two players combining

to take advantage of the third. If the ball belonging to C were over a
pocket, B might miss A , in order to allow him to play upon C , and so
claim the whole Pool. But with the Law as I give it, such an unfair
proceeding is impossible.]
XXVIII

Neither of the last two players can Star ; but if they are
left with an equal number of Lives each, they may Divide the
Pool; the striker, however, is entitled to his stroke before
the Division .
[ It is at the option of the striker to divide when he is left with an
equality of Lives with one other player only ; but both may agree to
play out the Pool, when he who takes the Life wins. After the striker
has made his stroke upon the remaining ball, the owner of the latter
may insist upon a division of the stakes, and cannot be obliged to play
out the game. ]
XXIX
All disputes are to be decided by the Marker ; but if he be
interested in the game, by bets, & c., they shall then be settled
by a majority of the players.
In public-rooms the charge for the Table is deducted from
each Pool before the stakes are paid over to the winners.

GENERAL OBSERVATIONS.

Play for safety,unless there is a direct or probable Hazard on

the table. Look well to your position with regard both to the
ball you have to play upon and the ball that is to play upon
you. When your player is in the middle of the table, and
there is no easy Hazard, play upon your Object-ball with just
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 177

sufficient strength to carry you well under a cushion , as far

distant from your player as possible. But you must also
beware of laying yourself under a cushion in such a position
as to give your player an opportunity of pocketing you with a
fine cut. Some players, poor at a direct straight Hazard , are
excellent at a cut. I would not advise too much caution ,
however, or the game is likely to be slow and uninteresting.
But as not even the best player can provide for all chances, or
calculate upon every position his ball may assume, no absolute
rules for play can be given . What you must do, is to accom
modate your style to the exigencies of your game; to play
cautiously when you have a first-rate Winning Hazard-striker
behind you, and to play boldly when you have no particular
fear of your player. I have many a time cleared the table of
half-a -dozen or more balls by means of a succession of Hazards
ea

arising out of one bold stroke. You will always find that
early in every Pool the players are most cautious in saving
their Lives. Follow their example, and husband your
strength till its employment is needed . But do not be afraid
of losing the first Life. I have often seen the man who does soSO

divide a Pool, because he is then more serious over his game

than before. When you can give your player a good wide
berth , and at the same time strike your ball with such
strength as to be pretty sure of the place at which it will stop ;
when you can play at a distant ball and stop your own at or
about the point of concussion ; when you can cut a ball clean
into a pocket, and so play your ball that after taking one
Life you are prepared to take another,then you will be able to
hold your own against all-comers. But this is only to be done
178 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CAAP. XII.

by dint of steady practice. Read carefully what I have said

about Winning Hazards, and try the various positions given in
the Diagrams. When your player lies safely under a cushion ,
then you may try to pocket the ball you play atwithoutmuch
fear ; but, as a rule, play so as to leave your own ball after
your stroke as far from the next player as you can . Learn
to play at your ball with a Stop -stroke, rather under than
above its centre. The Side-stroke is not much required at
Pool,though occasionswill arise in which it may be judiciously
employed : Division of the Object-ball rather than side' will
generally be found most useful. In playing at the White on the
spot, either hit your ball low , so as to make it stop at the end
of the table, or gently, so that it may roll towards the cushion
between the middle and top pocket. When your ball lies in the
midst of several others, and there seems no easy plan of getting
away with safety , playboldly for a Hazard ; and when you have
taken a Life, play either at the nearest ball for a Hazard , or
run off it gently to the cushion .
Pool is often played for large sums ; but, as a rule, I set my
face against high stakes and heavy wagers. There is sufficient
amusement to be obtained at all the Billiard -games, without
adding to them the excitement of bets. Never venture upon
a speculative stroke for the sake of a doubtful Hazard ; but
when you are favoured by Fortune, let not overcautiousness
lead you to neglect the favours of the blind goddess. The
secret of success at Pool lies in the nice adaptation of means
to ends; and in that, indeed, we find the secret of success in
every transaction in life. Calculate the probable chances of a
Hazard before attempting it, and when you do attempt it, put
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 179

all your determination and powerofmind into the stroke. Do

not be content to simply save your Pool : make up your mind
to divide, and let nothing interfere with your resolve. Of
course, you will fail occasionally ; but the very essence of
success is eliminated from frequent disaster. The man who
gives up because he does not succeed immediately , is not the
man to become a winner at Pool. Play your best always; and
if you are unlucky, don't be moody and give up ; but try
again, and again , and again, till you rob unsuccess of its power
to irritate , and snatch prosperity out of the fangs of failure .
But in my endeavours to imbue my readers with the spirit
of Billiards, I must not allow my pen to wander into the
region of mere declamation . So I pass on to the next game.

SINGLE POOL
This is simply the White Winning Hazard -game played by
two players, each with a ball, — the white and the spot-white.
The player who loses the toss, spots his ball ; the other strikes
it from the baulk semicircle. The game may be played for
three or more Lives, at so much per Life, and a stake - say a
two-shilling Pool and shilling Lives. For each Winning Hazard
the striker receives a Life, and for each Miss or Coup, or for
forcing his ball over the table, he pays a Life to his opponent.
The taker of the last Life of the three wins the game. The
great art ofSingle Pool is to keep as far away from your oppo
nent as you can , and when there is no Hazard on the table, to
leave his ball as close as possible to the cushion. The players
x 2
181 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIL

strike alternately, and when either pockets a ball, the other

ball is placed on the Spot. The Baulk is no protection to
the non-striker's ball. Single Pool is rather a dreary game
for indifferent Hazard -strikers; but I have played at it with
some of the best players in England, and found it pro
vided plenty of excitement both for the players and the
lookers-on. All the Laws with regard to foul strokes, & c . are
the same as in Pool.

NEAREST BALL POOL.

This game may be played by any number of players with
the ordinary coloured balls, in the succession observed at
Pool; or as the balls are given on the Marking -board . All
the usual rules of Pool, except the following, are observed ;
for in this game the players strike at the ball nearest to the
outer side of the baulk -line. When any balls lie inside the
baulk , they are out of play, and can only be struck by bricole
from the top-cushion. The baulk , therefore, is a protection in
this rather slow game. The following are the exceptional
RULES.

If all the balls be in Baulk , and the striker's ball in hand , he

must lead to the top -cushion , or place his ball on the Spot.
II
If the striker's ball be within the baulk -line, and he has to
play at a ball out of the baulk ,he can have any ball taken up
e U

that lies in his way, or that impedes his stroke,

 THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 181
Chap. XII.

III
If all the balls be within the baulk , and the striker's ball not
in hand, he plays atthe nearest ball.

• EVERLASTING POOL .
This is an amusing game, lately introduced. It is played in
the same way as ordinary Pool,with the exceptions denoted in
the Rules given below . Each player has a coloured ball, and
the succession of the players' turn is the same as before. No
stake is made up of the subscriptions of the players, as in Pool ;
but the payments consist entirely of Lives, the price of each
Life being determined before starting.

LAWS OF EVERLASTING POOL .

At the commencement of the game a black ball is placed in

the centre of the table, at which the first striker plays.
11
Any player having pocketed a ball (other than the black
ball) may, if he choose, play at the black ball, and if he
pocket it, he receives the value of a Life from each player ; but
if he pocket his own ball from it, miss it, force it off the table,
or go off the table from it, he pays the value of a Life to each
player.
III

If the player pocket the black ball, in any manner whatever,

having first struck his proper Object-ball, he receives a Life
182 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

from each player ; but if he pocket himself off the black , in

any manner whatever (having first struck the proper Object
ball), he pays a Life to each player. After making a Hazard ,
the player is to declare, if asked, whether he is playing at the
nearest or the black ball.
IV

The striker loses a single Life by playing with thewrong ball,

VIOI

at the wrong ball,or out of his turn. .

No ball can be removed to enable the striker to play at the

black ball, except to allow room for the player's hand on the
table ; but the black ballmay be removed to enable the striker
to play at the proper Object-ball.
VI

The balls are to be given out again on the expiration of a

certain time, to be agreed upon.
VII

A player may join the Pool at any time,but cannot play in

that round (the first round excepted ) ; and may leave it at the
end of a clear round (until which time his ball is to remain on
the table), by giving notice of his intention to do so before the
round begins.
In public rooms the game is played for a small stake on
each Life. The charge for the table is usually sixpence per
hour for each player — any part of an hour being counted as an
hour. The Marker gives notice of a clear round as the expi
ration of each hour approaches.
Chap. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 183

SKITTLE POOL.
This game was introduced some few years since , and for a
while was very popular. As a public -room game, however ,
players soon discovered that the table was the greatest winner,
and hence it has fallen somewhat out of repute. But for a
mixed party of ladies and gentlemen , Skittle Pool has many
attractions, since no particular skill is required to enable the
player to win a Pool. It is played, by any number of persons,
with three Billiard Balls - two white and one red — and twelve
Skittles, ten of which are white and two black . The Skittles
and Balls are arranged on the table as in the diagram here
given . The game is played for a small stake from each player ,
and the charge for the table is deducted from the Pool before
it is handed over to the winner. Thirty-one or sixty-two up
is the ordinary number of points, but these may be increased
or decreased according to the pleasure of the players.
Before giving the Rules, let me show you how to set the
table ; as in the diagram .

DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE SKITTLES AND BALLS.

The white pins (or Skittles) at B and E are to be placed nine

inches from the Baulk -line ; those at c and D on the inter
secting line, as explained below . They are to be placed the
same distance from the cushion as the others hereafter
described .
The remainder of the pins are to be placed at a distance
equal to their own height from the cushion and baulk -spots.
184 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

Draw a line across the table to intersect the Pyramid spot A,

and place white pins at B,C, D, E : then divide the spaces
between B and c, and D and E, into three equal parts, and on
the fourpoints thus obtained . place white pins — F, G , H , J. Place
one white pin at K, and another on the baulk -line at L, a black
one at M , also on the baulk -line. The distance for these two
pins is to be measured from the spots in baulk . Place the
remaining black Skittle at N , at an equal distance between the
cushion and pin at J.
The Billiard Balls are also to be placed as follows, — viz.,
the white and spot-white balls on the spots in baulk, and the
red ball at an equal distance between the cushion and pin K .
After the position of the pins have been obtained , the places
can be marked by black -plaister spots on the cloth . The
number opposite to each pin shows the number of points that
it counts.
Now then , having arranged the table, we can play the
game, according to the following

RULES AND DIRECTIONS FOR PLAY.

The rotation of the players is decided by numbered

counters drawn from a bag, one by each player.

Each player has one stroke alternately , according to his

rotation .
CHAP. XII. ) THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 185
185

III
No 1 plays either the white ball out of baulk , aiming at the
red ball, which he must strike before hitting a Skittle, or he
cannot score. No 2 plays with the spot-white at either of the
other balls — unless the white ball has been pocketed by the
first player ; in which case No. 2 (as well as the following
players) plays at, or with , either of the three balls at dis
cretion .
IV

The player scores the number which is placed opposite the

Skittle he displaces, except it be a black one ; in which case he
loses his Life, and any points he may have made. But he can
purchase another Life by paying the same amount into the
Pool as at first. This he can do as often as he pleases during
the game, if he signify his intention before the next player
makes his stroke. No points he may have previously made
are to be reckoned to his score.

Any player who knocks down a black pin (after making his
stroke), with a ball, cue,or otherwise, loses his Life, and can
only join in the game again by purchasing, as in Rule IV.
VI

Any Skittle or Skittles having been knocked over by a player,

must be replaced before the next player makes his stroke.
VII

Any ball occupying the place of a fallen Skittle must be

186 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

placed on its own proper spot, as at the commencement of the

game ; unless another ball occupies that position, in which
case each ballmust be placed on its own proper spot.

VIII
A Skittle is considered to be down if it is entirely off its
spot, or is leaning against a ball, cushion , or another Skittle.

IX

The striker who plays out of turn cannot score any points
he would otherwise have made, and the following player takes
his stroke without replacing the ball. But the former has the
right again to play in his turn , if he has not lost his Life by
knocking down a black Skittle.

Foul strokes are made by the followingmeans: — by pushing

a ball instead of striking it ; by knocking down a white pin
without first striking a ball; by playing before the balls have
ceased running ; by playing out of turn ; or when all the
Skittles are not in their places ; or when the three balls are not
on the table. Running in the pocket,or jumping off the table,
is not foul. No player making a foul stroke can score .

XI
If by mistake the black and white Skittles are wrongly
placed , and a stroke is made, the white scores, and the black
counts as dead ; but the Skittles must then be placed in their
proper positions.
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 185

XII
Should the three balls be so covered by the pins as to
prevent their being played at, the red ball can be spotted after
one Miss has been given ; and if they are again covered the
Spot-ball can be spotted . A Miss cannot be given to benefit
the next player.
XIII
Anyone not being present at the commencement of the
Pool, may join in it, provided no player has then made more
than one stroke.
XIV
Anyonepurchasing a Lifeand not making a stroke, is to have
his purchase-money returned .

PENNY POT.
I invented this easy and amusing variety of Pool many
years ago, and have now the pleasure of knowing that it is
played in country-houses all over the kingdom . It is
played in the sameway as ordinary Pool, with the same order
of balls ; only, instead of a stake and three Lives for each
player, there is a penny paid by the owner to the taker of
each Life. The game goes on as long as the company choose
to amuse themselves with it - Winning Hazards receiving, and
Losing Ilazards,Misses, and Coups paying ; each player taking
his or her turn to strike. All the rules as to Forfeits, & c.,
which are common to Pool, are observed at Penny Pot. I have
seen as many as twenty ladies and gentlemen play at this game
188 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XII.

on a wet day in a country-house ; much real fun,and very

little loss of either temper or money , being the pleasant
results. Every taker of a Life plays at the nearest ball, and
goes on as long as he can score. If he is fortunate enough to
clear the table, he spots his ball, and the next player goes
on as before. Any person can join in or relinquish the game
at pleasure.

PYRAMIDS.

This popular and excellent game is played by two or four

( 11

persons; in the latter case the players are divided into sides ,
two and two. Fifteen or sixteen balls are arranged in a
Pyramid, thus

The ball with which the striker plays is white when coloured
balls form the Pyramid, or any colour when white balls are
employed to make the Pyramid . The object of the players is
to pocket the Pyramid -balls ; he who succeeds in taking the
greatest number wins the game. Pyramids, like Pool - or
Pyramid Pool, as it is sometimes called — is entirely a game of
Winning Hazards. The Pyramid is made by placing the first
CHAP. XII. ] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 189

ball on the spotmidway between the winning and centre spots.

When an even number of balls is used , the last Hazard counts
for one point, when an oddnumber two. The player whomakes
the last Hazard but one keeps the original playing-ball, and
his opponent plays with the remaining ball. There should
always be a proportion of three and one between the Pool and
the Lives — as eighteenpenny Pool and sixpenny Lives, three
shilling Pool and shilling Lives, & c. The first player breaks
the Pyramid , and should he fail to pocket a ball, his opponent
goes on. When a player has made a Winning Hazard , he
plays at any other ball he chooses,and continues his break
till he ceases to score, the eventual winner being he who has
taken the greatest number of balls. Then the Pool, after
deducting the charge for the table, is paid over to the winner,
who also receives from his adversary the sum due for Lives.
The player wins a Life by pocketing a ball, or forcing it over
the table ; and loses a Life for each Losing Hazard — that is,by
pocketing his own (the striking) ball, making a Miss, running
a Coup, or forcing his own ball off the table, either before or
after striking a ball. There are various other forfeits, as will
be seen by reading the rules ; but it may be said , generally,
that the foul strokes are the same as in Billiards. The Baulk
is no protection at Pyramids ; the player whose ball is in hand
or within the baulk being entitled to strike any ball he may
select. Both players use the same Striking-ball, until there
are only two balls left on the table (vide Rule XVI.)
With regard to the way in which the first player should
break the Pyramid , there are various opinions among players.
Cautious men usually play at one of the side-balls, so as to
190 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XII.

bring back the playing -ball into baulk , after it has struck the
top or side cushions. Others are more venturesome, and play
boldly at the first ball of the Pyramid , so as to scatter all the
balls, and take the chance of one of them flying into a pocket.
The way to make this stroke with the greatest chance of
success, is to hold the Cue with the thumb above — the contrary
method to that ordinarily observed -- and drive full and hard at
the apex -baliof the Pyramid. This is called the Smash, and
is sometimes very successful. I have seen as many as three
or four balls pocketed by this plan ; but if your opponent is a
good Hazard -striker , and you do happen to fail in pocketing a
ballby the stroke, your chance of the game is rather small,as
there are sure to be several Hazards left on the table. For
the benefit of the venturesome few , I give an illustration of
Cso

the position and manner of holding the Cue for the Smash .
Be sure that you do strike the apex-tall full in the centre,
with a free,hard, Following-top-stroke, without the least side'
on your ball. Throw the whole force of your arm and
shoulder into the stroke, and you will most probably see a
ball or two run madly into a pocket, or topple over the table.
But then you must be prepared sometimes to see your ball
fly into a pocket, or to follow one of the others over the
table to the floor; in which case, of course, you lose all the
Winning Hazards you may havemade, and incur the penalty
Du C

of a Miss in the bargain. You will then “owe one,' and the
first ball you pocket will be replaced on the table in pay
ment of your debt. In the illustration on the next page, you
have the
CHAP. XII.) THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 191

POSITION AND MANNER OF HOLDING THE CUE FOR THE SMASH .'
192 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

THE LAWS OF PYRAMIDS.

This gamemay be played with any number of balls ; gene

rally sixteen — viz., fifteen red and one white .
[Where there are not a regular set of Pyramid balls, the Pool balls
may be used instead ; one white ball being employed by both players.]

II

In setting the balls ' at the commencement of the game,

they are to be placed on the table in form of a triangle or
Pyramid ; the first ball to stand on thewinning spot.
[By placing the balls thus, the apex-ball of the Pyramid will face the
baulk , and be in front of the player. Where only fifteen balls form the
Pyramid , the base will be a straight line. It is usual to have a triangular
box for the balls. This box has a sliding bottom , which, when the
Pyramid has been placed on the table, is removed from beneath the balls.
A mere triangular frame of wood will, however, serve to adjust the
Pyramid.]
III
If more than two persons play, and their number is odd,
each plays alternately — the rotation to be decided by stringing.
The player pocketing the greatest number of balls, to receive
from each of the other players (a certain sum per ball having
been agreed upon ) the difference between their Lives and his.
[ In general practice, Pyramids is played by two persons ; or by four,
in sides of two each . In this case, each partner may advise the other. ]

IV

If the number of players be even, they may form sides,

CHAP. XII.] TIIE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 193

when the partners either play alternately, or go out upon

a Hazard, Miss, & c. being made, as previously agreed.
[ In any case, the player goes on with his break as long as he can
score. ]

The players string for choice of lead ; then the leader places
his ball (the white ) within the baulk semicircle, and plays at
the Pyramid .
[Of course, the player may start from any part of the semicircle. If
he succeed in making a Winning Hazard , he plays at any ball he may
select, and so on as long as he can score.7

VI
The next striker plays the white ball from the spot on which
it rests after his opponent has made his stroke : but if the ball
should be off the table, it must be played from baulk , as at
the commencement.
[Whenever the playing-ball is pocketed or forced off the table, it is
in hand , and must be played by the next striker from baulk . ]

VII

None but Winning Hazards count towards the striker's

game; one point or life is reckoned for each Winning Hazard ,
and he who pockets the greatest nuinber of balls, wins.
[The rules with regard to foul strokes, & c., are the same as in Pool.]
VIII

The player loses a point if he pocket the white ball, or force

it over the table,give a Miss, or run a Coup.
run

[ In such a case, one point is taken from the player's score, if he have
· 194 THE BILLIARD BOOK. (CHAP. XII.

made any, and a ball is replaced on the table ; but if he has made no
points, he is said to . owe one,' — or two as the case may be — and the
next ball he takes is replaced on the table.]

IX
For every Losing Hazard , Miss, or Coup madeby the player,
a point is to be taken from his score, and a ball replaced on
the Pyramid Spot ; but if that spot be occupied, the ball must
be placed immediately behind it.
[When two or more balls be wrongly pocketed , it is usual to place
the firston theWinning or Pyramid Spot, and the others in a line behind
it. ]

If the striker pocket his own ball, or force it over the table,
and by the same stroke pocket one or more of the Pyramid
balls, or force them over the table , he gains nothing by the
stroke ; the Pyramid balls so pocketed must be replaced on
the table, together with one of the balls previously taken by
the player . .
[ The penalty in this case is the loss of a point and the replacing of the
balls pocketed . The next player then goes on from baulk . ]

ΧΙ

Should the striker losing a ball not have taken one, the first
he pockets must be placed on the table, as in Rule IX . ; should
he not take one during the game, he must pay the price of a
Life for each ball so forfeited .
[ This has already been explained in the note to Law VIII.]

XII
If the playing-ball touch a Pyramid ball, the striker may
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 195

score all the Pyramid balls he pockets, but he cannot give a

Miss without forfeiting a point.
[Balls touching each other are not deemed foul, as in Billiards; and
the player in such case may play at any ball he chooses.]

XIII

Should the striker move any ball in taking aim or striking ,

he loses all he might otherwise have gained by the stroke.
[It is a foul stroke, and the next player goes on . The penalty for
moving a ball, either with cue or person , is that the striker cannot
score. ]
XIV
If the striker force one or more of the Pyramid balls over
the table, he scores one for each , the sameas if he had pocketed
them .
[ In some Clubsand public- rooms, a ball purposely forced over the table
does not count. But generally Law XIV . is adhered to . Any departure
from this Rule must be by agreement among the players. ]

XV
If the game be played with an even number of balls, the
last Hazard counts one ; if with an odd number, it counts two.
[ This is to prevent a Tie between the players. ]

XVI
When all the Pyramid balls butone are pocketed, the player
who made the last Hazard continues to play with the white
ball,and his opponent with the red ; each playing alternately ,
as at Single Pool.
[ If the last player give a Miss, a point is taken from his score, not
added to that of his opponent.]
02
196 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.
XVII

When only two balls remain on the table, with two persons
playing,should the striker pocket his own ball,ormake a Miss,
the game is finished ; if there are more than two players, and
they not partners, the striker places a ball on the spot.
XVIII
The baulk is no protection to the non-striker's ball. The
player whose ball is in hand can play from the semicircle at
any ball on the table .
XIX
All disputes are to be decided by the Marker ; or, if he be
interested in the game, as a player or wagerer,by the majority
of the company .
XX
The charge for the Table is to be deducted from the Pool
before handing it over to the winner.

ADVICE TO YOUNG PLAYERS .

Brilliant Hazard-striking is quite useless in Pyramids, if the ?

player has not a due regard for safety. This he will acquire,
perhaps, after losing a score of games ; but I would impress
upon him the necessity of eximining the probable effect of
every stroke before he attempts it. But when — as often
happens — a good opening occurs, the player should be prepared
to take advantage of it. I have often seen the table cleared
by a player who chances to find his ball in the middle of a
ruck of others after a Smash ; and ,on one occasion, I remember
pocketing the whole fifteen balls withoutmy opponent having
a single stroke. To play well requires constant practice, and
CHAP. XII. ] TIE GAMES AND TIIEIR RULES. 197

no slight amount of nerve and temper. It is not every man who

can coolly see the game sliding away, while he knows, at the
same time, that his opponent is an inferior player to himself,
and that his score owes more to flukes than to judgment. In
such a case , the player must be wary , and never throw away
a chance. When he has a Hazard before him , let him make
it ; but if he cannot fairly calculate upon scoring, his best plan
is to lodge his ball well under a cushion , so that his opponent
may have to play from a cramped position . There is this,
however, to be said , that luck seldom stays by a man for a
whole evening, and that steady play generally breaks the back
of it before long. The Pool and Pyramid-player must accus
tom himself to deliver his ball with sudden and determined
aplomb; generally hitting below the centre,and always playing
for a well-defined object. Play, too , with such strength as to
bring your ball away from the centre of the table ; and when
there is a Cut, or a Straight Hazard that may be safely tried,
try it, especially if the remainder of the balls are at the other
end of the table. The good Pyramid -player makes his own
game, and endeavours to mar that of his opponent - for all
stratagems that are not contrary to the Laws are fair at
Pyramids.
In my first Treatise on Billiards, I gave some hints to young
players as to wagers. I cannot in this place do better, perhaps,
than repeat the passage:
• My advice to amateurs, when invited by strangers in a
public-room to “ just play a little Pyramid for sixpence a
ball or so,” is — to refuse. For Pyramids is a game much
patronised by billiard-rooks, who make its various points their
198 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

special study, and never lose an opportunity of plucking any

young pigeon who, with more money than wit, thinks he can
play a “ decentish Winning Hazard .” These clever professional
thieves (I cannot dignify them by the term players) practise
daily ; and to such perfection have some of them arrived , that
they can place the playing-ball safe under the cushion after
almost every successful stroke. As the game is seldom played
in a public -room for less than sixpence or a shilling a ball,
with eighteenpence or three shillings for the Pool, it is possible
— and, indeed, very likely - for the tyro to lose eight or ten
shillings in a single game. Nor is this all — the rooking gentry
have a clever knack of betting or taking odds on the game;
and,while apparently offering a fair wager, contriving to fleece
the gentleman-player who is unfortunate enough to be caught
in their traps. I recollect an instance. A certain Mr. Wido
was playing a game of Pyramids with a friend of mine. The
game was merely for sixpence a ball and shilling Pool; and the
score standing at nine to two in favour of my friend, the game
was consequently lost to Mr.Wido.
was CO Therewere four balls left
on the table ; when says Wido, “ I will bet half-a -sovereign
on each of those balls.” My friend, flushed with success, took
the bet, and the game proceeded thus : — Wido played in an
extremely cautious manner till there was a Hazard left. This
he made immediately,winning the first half-sovereign . Instead,
however, of going on with the next stroke, he gave a Miss close
under the most distant cushion, and the ball just taken was
replaced on the Spot. My friend was thus under the necessity
of playing hard at the ball in order to be certain of striking
a plan that could not be otherwise than favourable to his
CAAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES . 199

adversary . As soon as another easy Hazard presented itself,

Wido never failed to make it ; and then he gave another Miss.
In this way, alternately taking a ball and giving a Miss, the
game went on for about half-an-hour — every such manæuvre
winning Wido half-a-sovereign, minus sixpence for the ball
missed --— till my friend threw up the game in disgust, with the
loss of nearly five pounds and the empty honour of winning
the game. He has been more cautious since then of betting
with a billiard-sharp ! '
This anecdote, which many readers will recognise as the
relation of an actual fact, ought to carry with it an unmis
takable moral — Don't bet with strangers ! I have seen hun
dreds lost in this way, to the detriment of a capital game, and
damage to the pocket and temper of many a good honest
simple fellow , who cared less for the money than for the
mortification of being • done.'
Pyramids need not be played for money ; though I must
confess that when it is played for 'love' merely, it is not
equal in interest to Billiards. Moreover, there is this danger
to regular players at the Pool-games — always playing Win
ning Hazards is apt to unfit them for regular Billiards. For I
need scarcely observe that a very peculiar style of play
is required in a game consisting entirely of Winning Hazards;
and when the player, after a month or so at Pool, comes to
try his hand at Jennies and other fine Losing Hazards, he
discovers that he has lost the neatness and finish on which he
once prided himself. Therefore, the amateur should vary his
game, and not devote himself entirely to any one particular
style of play .
200 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XII.

LOSING PYRAMIDS.
The Losing Pyramid is now seldom played , though it is by
no means an uninteresting game, and is of comparatively
modern introduction. The Pyramid is made of fifteen or six
teen balls, as before ; and each player uses the same striking
ball. Points are made by Losing Hazards,off any ball of the
Pyramid , and every Winning Hazard, Miss, or Coup scores
against the player. The first striker plays from baulk ,which
after the first stroke is no protection . For every Losing
Hazard he can make into any pocket, he takes a ball from the
Pyramid. By this Imean that, when the Pyramid is broken ,
he can remove from the table any ball he chooses.
CP
The rules
as to foul strokes, & c. are the same as in the regular Pool
games. This gamemay be played by two or more persons,
and the one who makes the greatest number of Losing
Hazards, wins. It is generally played for a stake on the Pool
and a small sum for each Life. When two balls only remain ,
the game is played out as a Single Losing Hazard Pool.

SHELL -OUT.
This is a simple and amusing way of playing Pyramids,
especially in a large party. The balls are placed on the table
in the usual way ,and the players make alternate strokes ac
cording to their order, as arranged previous to the beginning
of the game. All play with the same ball. The first player
strikes at the Pyramid from baulk , and if he succeed in pocket
CHAP. XII.] THE GAMES AND THEIR RULES. 201

ing a ball, he continues his break by playing at any other ball

he may choose, till he fail to score. The next player then
makes his strokewith the ball from the place where it was left
by the previous striker. Should he be successful in making
a Winning Hazard , he continues his break as usual, and so
re
on with all the players while any balls remain on the table .
When only two are left, the balls are changed as each player
makes his stroke; the striking-ball becoming the object-ball,
and vice versâ . All the players remain in till the last Hazard
is made, which concludes the game. There is no subscribed
Stake or Pool; but for every Winning Hazard he makes,
the player receives a penny from each of the other players ;
and for each Losing Hazard , Miss, or Coup, he pays a penny
to each of the other players. Thus, suppose ten persons
play at Shell-out, the player receives or pays ninepence for
every Winning or Losing Hazard . Of course the stake per
ball may be increased ; though for all purposes of amusement
— especially when ladies play — a penny will be found quite
enough ; as even at that, a careless player may lose eighteen
pence or two shillings a game. In practice, however, the
game is harmless enough , so far as the coppers go ; as the
taking of a single ball furnishes the player with sufficient cash
to pay for several other Hazards. The rules with regard to
foul strokes, & c. are the same as in Pyramids. The Baulk is
no protection ; the player whose ball is in hand being
allowed to play at any ball on the table, whether it be
within or beyond the Baulk - line.
 202 THE BILLIARD BOOK [CAAP. XIII.

CHAPTER XIII.

FOREIGN GAMES.

Aye, marry , now my Cue hath elbow -room !— SHAKESPEARE. (Qy.)

What a cheap purchase of pleasure is made by the strength of fancy !
Thus he who plays at a poor game, which another would avoid ; yet if he
play it well and relish it heartily , it is as good to him as though it were the
best.- Erasmus In Praise of Folly .

S H ERE are few Foreign Games which possess much

36 attraction for English players; but as . The Billiard
Book ’would be incomplete without the mention of
at least the best of them , I proceed to explain their peculiarities .
Most of the Foreign Games now played aim at greater variety
than belongs to our Billiards; and some few of them as
German Pyramids, for instance - abound in difficulties which
are fatal to their popularity with Britons, who “never, never,
never will be slaves,' even to their amusements ! On the other
hand, the American and the Russian Games are full of pleasant
excitements and surprises,and are,moreover,very easy to play
no slight recommendation for amateurs. We will begin with

THE AMERICAN GAME.

Some few years since this game was very popular. It was
introduced into this country by Mr. Stark , a fine New York
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 203

player ; and at first he beat all-comers. He made greatscores,

and was for a while the talk of the Clubs and the little world
of billiard-players. But our native professors soon learned the
secret of his success ; and before he had been three months
in England, he met his rival and conqueror in , I think, Mr.
Roberts, of Manchester. I may here mention - par parenthèse
- that Roberts afterwards came to London, and took the
rooms formerly occupied by Mr. Green in Savile House,
Leicester Square ; but, from some cause or other, he failed
to establish himself in his new quarters. Though confessedly
the finest player in the world , Roberts was unfortunate in his
endeavours to attract respectable people to his rooms; and on
the eventual failure of his speculation, he went to Australia .
Perhaps the real reason of his non -success lay in the situation
of his rooms. Had he started a Billiard Club in St. James's,
he would doubtless have found abundant support. But
Leicester Square is not a fashionable locality ; and the con
sequence was, that Roberts soon found himself surrounded by
a lot of raffish players, whose little game was not Billiards
but plunder ! The place having once acquired an ill-name, the
usual results followed , which not all the reputation of the
great Manchester player was powerful enough to withstand.
The American Game consists entirely of Winning Hazards
and Cannons. It is played with four balls, usually 62
up, by two players ; or by four, in sides of two each ; or by
six , in sides of three each. As many balls as may be pocketed
by one stroke count, in addition to Cannons upon two or three
balls ; while Losing Hazards, Misses, and Coups are scored
against the striker. The rules as to foul strokes, & c. are the
204 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XIII.

same as in Billiards ; but the baulk from which the ball in

hand is played extends not merely to the semicircle, but to all
the space within a baulk -line drawn higher up the table than
the ordinary line. The red ball is placed on the Pyramid Spot,
which is the lower of the two spots above the middle pocket ;
and the pink ball on a spot midway on the baulk -line, at the
same distance from the lower cushion as the red spot is from the
upper one. The players lead off from any part of the baulk ;
and the fact of the coloured balls being severally in the centre
Cro
of four pockets gives numerous chances for the making of
Winning Hazards. Stark , Roberts, Hughes, Bowles, Dufton ,
the Oxford Jonathan , and other professional players, think
nothing of a break of sixty or eighty from the two coloured
balls ; while the fact that there are three balls, instead of two,
on which you may cannon , gives infinite variety and excite
ment to the game, and provides no small amusement
Museu
for the
lookers-on .

LAWS AND REGULATIONS OF THE AMERICAN GAME.

The game is played with four balls — two white, one red ,
and one pink.
[ The colours of the balls are of no consequence ; but, for the sake of
uniformity, red and pink are usually chosen. ]

At the commencement of the game, the red ball is placed

on the Pyramid Spot in the centre of the upper half of the
table, and the pink in a similar position at the lower or baulk
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 205

end ; the pink ball is considered in baulk ,and therefore cannot

be played at when the striker's ball is in -hand.
[ This placing of the balls, or setting the table,' is generally adopted ;
but in some rooms the usualbaulk -line is used , and the pink ball placed
on the midway spot on the line. The plan as above directed is best, as
each ball is then more fairly in the centre of the four pockets. ]

III

The Baulk extends as far as the pink ball,and a ball in hand

may be played from any part within that line.
[This gives the player a great advantage,as hemay play upon the red
on the spot for an easy Hazard in either top pocket. ]

IV

The players, at starting, string for the lead, the winner

having choice .
[ The string is made in the usual way, by playing the ball to the top
cushion . The ball nearest to the bottom cushion , after reverberation,
has the choice of lead .]

v
The player who leadsmust give a Miss (which does not
count) anywhere behind the red ball ; or, failing to leave it
behind, he has the option of putting it on the winning and
losing ' spot.
[In practice, the first player gives a Miss as near to the top -cushion as
he can, and in as direct a line as possible with the red, so as to lessen
the chance of his opponent making a Cannon . But as the latter may play
from any part of the baulk , there is often a Cannon left. By this it will
be seen that the second player has a slight advantage at starting . In
some rooms, this advantage is balanced by the leader receiving three
points - a very fair arrangement, in my opinion.]
206 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

VI
The second player must then either play at the white ball,
or give a Miss, which does count; and should he first strike
either of the coloured balls, his opponent may either have the
ball played over again , or score a Miss.
[The second player usually plays at the white for a Cannon upon the
red or the pink ; but if there should not appear to be a Cannon on the
balls, he gives a Miss anywhere out of baulk . ]

VII

The game is scored from Cannons and Winning Hazards ;

Losing Hazards count against the player making them , with
the loss of any Hazard or Cannon he may have made by the
same stroke.
[Thus if he pocket the red and cannon on the white, he gains five
points; but if, after cannoning on to the white, his ball should run into
a pocket, he loses three points for the Hazard off the red , and does
not count the five points previously made by the Winning Hazard and
Cannon. ]
VIII

Points. For every White Winning Hazard the striker scores

two points; for every Red or Pink Winning Hazard ,three points ;
for every Cannon off the white to a coloured ball, or from a
coloured ball to a white one, two points ; for every Cannon
from one coloured ball to the other, three points.
[ Thus it is possible to make thirteen points by a single stroke- five
for a double Cannon , and eight for pocketing the two coloured balls and
the white.]

Penalties. The player loses two points if he make a Losing

ČIAP. XIII.) FOREIGN GAMES . 207

Hazard off the white , and three points if he make it off either
of the coloured balls.

If the player make a Cannon off the white, and afterwards

pocket his own ball, he loses two points ; but if he first strike a
coloured ball and cannon, and then pocket his own ball, he
loses three points.
[Mr. Roberts gives the Law thus If the player makes two and loses
his own ball, he loses two_ that is, if he strikes the white ball first ; but
if he strikes the red ball first, he loses three. Some thought is required
to understand this confusion of terms, but its meaning is substantially
shown in Law X .,as above given .]

XI
The player cannot score from foul strokes . If a foul stroke
be made , the balls remain as they have run, and are not
placed on the spots and broken (as in the Three -ball Game);
the next player goes in and takes advantage of whatever
Hazard or Cannon may be left.
[ All strokes considered foul in Billiards are also foul in this game.]

XII
If the striker's ball touch another he cannot score.
[ In such a case the striker may play his ball into a pocket, or to a
distance , without incurring the penalty of a Miss. The next player then
goes on at the balls as they stand. ]

XIII

The player loses one point for every Miss (except the first,
as explained in Law V.), and three points for every Coup, or
208 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XIII.

for forcing his ball off the table, either with or without first
striking a ball.
[ If the player's ball fly off the table after striking a ball, the penalty is
enforced, as for a Losing Hazard, and he does not score the points made
by the same stroke. The next player then goes on as before.]
XIV
The coloured balls, after being pocketed , must be placed on
their respective spots,as at the beginning of the game; but in
case either spot is occupied , the ball must be held in hand till
the spot is vacant , and then spotted .
[For instance, suppose the player's ball stop on the Pyramid Spot, after
he has pocketed the red , he must play at either of the other balls ; and
when his ball has ceased running, the red must be spotted ; and so , also,
of the pink ball. ]
XV

In games of four or six players, each partner may advise the

other ; but he must not touch his ball, or place his cue.
[ This last Law I have added to meet a frequent case ; it being mani
festly unfair for any non - striker to interfere with the player 's ball or
cue. ]
XVI
All disputes must be decided by the Marker ; or by the
majority of the company, if the Marker be interested in the
game, either as player or better.

CARLINE.
Carline, or Caroline, is a Russian game of not dissimilar
character to the American Game, of which it was probably the
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 209

progenitor. It is played with three coloured balls (generally

black, blue, and red ) and two white balls — white and spot
white. It may be played by two, four, or six players, either
singly or as partners. The player's score ismade up entirely
of Winning Hazards and Cannons, while Losing Hazards, Coups,
and Misses count for his opponent. The ordinary rules as to
foul strokes are the same as in Billiards.
In setting the table the black ball — which is called the
Carline — is placed on the centre spot, between the two middle
pockets, the red ball on the winning and losing' spot,and the
blue ball on the centre spot on the baulk -line. The players
strike from any part of the baulk semicircle, and the baulk is no
protection to any ball lying between the straight line and the
bottom cushion. The players string for lead, and when there
are more than two they follow in the order in which their
balls fall, whether they play singly or in sides. The winner of
the lead has choice of balls. Each player must strike the red
ball first, and if he succeed in making a Hazard or Cannon , he
continues his break as long as he can score. The points are
reckoned thus: — the player reckons three for pocketing the red
or the blue in either of the corner-pockets — six for holeing the
black in either of the middle pockets ; but if he pocket the red
or the blue in either of the middle pockets, he forfeits three
points for each Winning Hazard so made, while if he pocket
the black in either of the corner-pockets,he forfeits six points.
All forfeits, as at Billiards, are added to the score of the
player's opponent. Each Cannon from a white to a coloured
ball, or from a coloured ball to a white one, counts two points ;
and each Cannon from one coloured ball 1o another counts three .
210 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP . XIII.

Successive Cannons count:- Thus,if the player make a Cannon

from the white to the red, and from the red to the blue or the
black, he scores five. Or if he first play at a coloured ball,
and cannon on to another coloured one, he scores three ; then
if the ball cannon on to the other coloured ball, he scores three
more ; and if afterwards on to the white,he scores two more
in all, eight points. He also counts all the Winning Hazards
properly made. By this mode of reckoning, the whole game
is frequently scored off the balls in a single break. Sixty -two
or a hundred and one — as the gamemay be between two or four
players is the number of points usually set; though of course
the points may be increased to any extent. Suppose a player
begin by striking the black , and pocketing it in a middle
pocket, he scores six ; then if the same ball cannon on to the
red (say),and that ball is pocketed in the corner, he scores sit
more — three for the Cannon and three for the red ; then if the
same ball cannon from the red to the blue, and the blue be
pocketed, he scores six more; and then if the ball cannoned
from the blue to the white, and the White Winning Hazard fol
lowed ,hewould score four more — two for the Cannon and two
for the Hazard : in all twenty-four points. This is of course
a nearly impossible case ; for it must be a very lucky stroke
indeed, to say nothing of any kind of calculation on the part
of the player, which would make four Winning Hazards and
three Cannons! I give it only to show what might be done in
the game. But as a Losing Hazard causes the forfeiture of not
only all the points made, but of two, three, or six , according
to whether the ball first struck was white, red, blue, or black ;
so, after having made this extraordinary Twenty-four-stroke,
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 211

suppose the player's ball to run into a middle pocket, he

would then forfeit thirty points — the twenty-four already
made, and six more for a Losing Hazard off the black in
a middle pocket. These consecutive Cannons and Hazards,
however, frequently occur, though to a smaller extent than
our supposititious case. While the Winning Hazards count
six for the black (in the middle pockets only), and three each
for the red and the blue (in the corner pockets only ), the
same numbers are forfeited by the player if he make a Losing
Hazard in the respective pockets, and two points are added to
his opponent's score for every White Losing Hazard he may
make in either of the six pockets, in addition to any pre
viously -made Winning Hazard or Cannon. All balls forced over
the table count the same as if they had been pocketed — six
for the black , three for the red or the blue, and two for the
white ; but forfeits of the same number of points are paid by
the player who forces his own ball off the table, after contact
with a ball or balls .
From this it will be seen that Carline is a lively game for
young players ; and though it is seldom played by adepts at
Billiards or Pool, it presents numberless opportunities for the
display of science and skill. Indeed, I think it only needs to
be better known — and this it will probably be through the
medium of my Book — to obtain considerable patronage in
country -houses and public -rooms.
This is my way of playing Carline ; but other players have
other ways, as the game is capable of much variation.
Losing Hazards, for instance, may count for the player, and
Winning Hazardsagainsthim ; the Following Cannonsmay not
P 2
212 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

be allowed , & c., & c. I append the method adopted in some

of the Clubs, and also , I understand , in St. Petersburg
though a friend tells me that the game is rather German than
Russian. This is, perhaps, not unlikely, as the Teutons are to
the modern nations what the Egyptianswere of old — inventors,
classifiers, civilisers ! The following is given to me as

KENTFIELD 'S METHOD OF PLAYING CARLINE .

The game is forty (or more ) in number, and is made up of

Winning Hazards, Cannons, and Forfeits. The balls used are
two white ones, a red , a blue, and a yellow . The balls at the
commencement of the game, and after every Hazard , are
placed on the table thus — the red on the spot, the yellow on
the centre spot, and the blue on the centre of the baulk -line .
This ball is considered to be in baulk , and cannot be played
at by a ball in hand.
“ The red ball may be pocketed in any pocket, and scores
three ; the blue ball may be pocketed in any pocket,and scores
four; the white ball may be pocketed in any pocket, and
scores two ; the yellow ball must be pocketed in themiddle
pockets only, and scores six. A Cannon scores two, but there
are no compound Cannons— that is, you cannot count more
than one Cannon at a stroke. The striker, in leading off, or
when the ball is in hand , is not confined to the half- circle , but
may play his ball anywhere within the baulk -line. In leading
off,the striker may play his ball out of the baulk , to any part
of the table he chooses, so that it be made to pass beyond the
yellow ball ; and his adversary must play the first stroke at
CHAP . XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 213

the white ball. The leader 's endeavour, therefore, should be

to lay his ball as close behind the yellow ball as possible. If
the striker pocket his own ball, he loses according to the ball
he strikes — namely, four for the blue, six for the yellow , two
for the white, and three for the red. The striker,by pocketing
his own ball, loses all the points he made by the stroke ; so
that it would be possible for him to lose twenty -one points by
one stroke— that is, if he played at the yellow ball, made a
Cannon , and pocketed all the balls. If the player, in giving his
lead, touch either one of the three balls, he loses one point; if
two,two points ; if three,three points — and the balls so touched
must be replaced ; and if the player's ball occupy the place of
any of the three balls,he must take it up and lead over again .
* If the striker force his own ball off the table after making
a Cannon or a Hazard , he loses all the points he would other
wise have gained by the stroke. If the striker force his
adversary's ball over the table, he gains two points ; if the
yellow , he gains six ; if the red , three ; if the blue, four.'
All the other points of the game are governed by the usual
Laws of Billiards. I am not aware of any authorised laws
having been made for the game; but by aid of what I have
written and what I have quoted , I fancy that any lady or
gentleman will be able to play Carline without any particular
trouble.
214 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

THE FRENCH WINNING GAME.

This French Game, like our White Winning Game, consists
entirely of Winning Hazards. The player, however, is not
confined to the baulk semicircle, but when his ball is in hand
he may play from any part of the baulk within the straight
line. He is bound, however, to stand in such a way that
neither foot is beyond the limits of the table. The non - player's
ball, at the commencement of the game, is placed on the
Winning Spot, not on the Upper Spot, as in Billiards ; and
every time a ball is pocketed it is replaced on that spot. Treo
points are scored for a Winning Hazard ,and two forfeited for
a Losing Hazard or Coup, and one for a Miss.
But the game formerly fashionable in France is called
UCE

THE DOUBLET GAME.

This is played with three balls, and consists entirely of
Losing Hazards and Cannons. The red ball is placed on the
winning spot, and the nonplayer's ball on the spot midway on
the baulk -line. The player starts from anywhere within the
baulk -line ; and must first play at the red ball, the other being
considered in baulk. Every Cannon and every Losing Hazard
must be made by a Doublet from the cushion after striking
the Object-ball, and no stroke scores to the player without
it is so made. Losing Hazards made without Doublet score
against the striker, while Winning Hazards, whether made
with or without the Doublet, do not score at all. The regu
lations as to foul strokes, & c. are the same as in Billiards.
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 215

The Doublet Game is also played with two balls only, no

Hazard counting to the player unless it is made by a Doublet.
Sometimes it is played by a good player against an ama
teur, the latter having the advantage of Winning and Losing
Hazards, made in the usual way. When both players have
to make the Doublet, it is a rather slow game. But then it
must be recollected that the established French Table is
smaller than ours, while the balls are much larger, and the
Cues much wider at the tip .

THE FRENCH CANNON GAME.

This game, consisting entirely of Cannons, is played with two
white balls and a red one. This latter is termed the Caram
boler,and at starting is placed on the “Spot,' and the second
player'sball on the spot midway on the baulk -line. As it is the
object of the player to cannon, and not to make Hazards, all
balls pocketed either count for nothing , or else count against
the striker. The players string for lead in the usual way, and
then place the balls on the spots as already mentioned .
Whenever a ball is pocketed, itmust be replaced on its proper
spot, so that there are always two balls on the table, from
which the player may cannon . The game is usually played
24-up — that is, twelve Cannons, each counting two.
LAWS OF THE FRENCH CANNON GAME.

The players string for lead and choice of balls.

216 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XIII.

The red ball is placed on the Spot,and the non -player's ball
on the middle spot on the baulk -line.
III
The ball on the baulk-line cannot be played at by the player
whose ball is in hand .

One point is scored against the striker for a Miss, and three
points for a Coup.
Two points are scored for every Cannon.
VI
The player who makes a Cannon off a whiteballand pockets
his own ball, loses two points.
[ That is, he loses two for the Hazard , and gains nothing for the
Cannon. ]
VII
The player who makes a Cannon off the red and pockets his
own ball, loses three points.
VIII
The player who cannons and pockets his adversary, loses
two points.
ix

The player who cannons off either ball and pockets the red,
loses three points.
The player who cannons, and pockets both his own and his
adversary's ball, loses four points.
CHAP. XIII. ] FOREIGN GAMES. 217

XI

The player who cannons off the white and pockets his own
ball and his red , loses five points.
XII
The player who cannons off the red and pockets both it and
his own balls, loses six points.
XIII

The player who cannons off the white and pockets all the
balls, loses seven points.
XIV
The player who cannons off the red and pockets all the balls,
loses eight points.
[By the above Laws it will be seen that all Hazards,whether Winning
or Losing, count against the player, when they are preceded by a Cannon ;
but Hazardswhich aremade previous to, or without, a Cannon , aresubject
to no penalty whatever. The pocketed ball is then spotted, the next
player going on as usual. ]
XV
The player continues his break so long as he can cannon
without pocketing a ball ; two points being scored in his
favour for each Cannon so made.
[Foul strokes — as balls touching, the player's feet being off the table,
& c. - are the same as in Billiards. ]

REMARKS.

The Cannon Game, as usually played in England, is governed

by these laws, but it may also be played without forfeitures for
Hazards, — the better plan, in my opinion. The game as here
 218 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

described is French Billiards as played in France ; but many

of the French tables are made without pockets, entirely for
Cannons ; which renders the game much more simple, espe
cially as the balls are larger, and the cues broader than ours.
On a regular English table French Billiards is often played by
a good Cannon-striker against his opponent's Cannons and
Hazards. It is astonishing how much may be done by simple
Cannons. Indeed, the main dependence of every first-rate
billiard -player is upon Cannons. He appears to make Hazards
only when they are so easy and so evident that they can
scarcely be missed . In his hands, the Hazard seems to serve
but as an introduction to a series of Cannons. Kentfield 's fame
rests greatly on his Cannons, some of which used to be con
sidered very wonderful. And they doubtless were, especially
those made all round the table.' But the player could
calculate upon making his Cannons with greater truth and
IONS

exactness upon tables with list-cushions, than he can now with

the fast India-rubber ones. In fact, the India -rubber cushion
is subject to variations of temperature, which had no effect
whatever upon the list-stuffed pads. The substitution of
India -rubber for list in cushions has, nevertheless, done much
to improve the general style of play : it has taught young
players that they can no longer depend upon any regular and
orthodox manner of making certain strokes, but that
every Hazard and every Cannon must be considered by
itself. It is of little use now -a-days to mark the course of a
Cannon on the cushion with a piece of chalk ; for the modern
player has to discover the precise condition of the India-rubber,
and vary his play according to the best of his judgment.
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 219

Every table has its own special peculiarities, and a certain

stroke upon one table is a failure upon another. It is necessary
to understand this, in order to account for the surprising feats
some players and markers can accomplish on their pet tables.
They learn every secret of the cushions— just as a rider gets
acquainted with every trick and fancy of his horse — by dint of
study and intimate acquaintance. Thus it is that players, who
consider themselves 'pretty good at Hazards and Cannons,' are
surprised when they find an opponent who beats them with
Cannons alone. In a match between even players, Cannons
against Cannons and Hazards, the odds are not greater than
about twenty in fifty . And when we consider that the Cannon
player has the advantage of being able to leave the balls wide
apart at the finish of his break , so that Hazards are atbest but
difficult, we cease to wonder at his success.
And what is the moral of all this ? Why, that tyros should
be cautious in accepting from strangers the odds of Hazards
and Cannons against Cannons alone. One of themost common
of the billiard-sharp 's proposals is, to play his Cannons against
all you can score by any kind of stroke. Sometimes, indeed,
the Admirable Crichton short of half-crowns will offer to play
with his walking-stick , or the unleathered end of the Butt.
Amateurs, beware of such geniuses ! or, if you do play with
them , play for Love, and the Table ; when they find you
unwilling to stake anything on your game, they will soon
cease to play. But some fellows, who haunt certain public
rooms, will not be put off by a simple refusal. If they see any
disposition in their adversaries to become elated by success,
they will disguise their play, and even lose a few games and a
220 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [ CHAP. XIII.

few shillings, in order to recover themselves by a grand coup

de-main !
What the player of French Billiards has particularly to attend
to is safety . After he has made his last Cannon he should be
careful to divide the balls, so as to make the succeeding stroke
as difficult as he can for his adversary. Of course, I am
presuming that the game is to be played aswell as each player
can play it. Careless and indifferent people , who play without
any desire to excel, will probably smile at my earnestness.
Well, let them ; I can well afford to be laughed at now and
then . What I contend for in Billiards, is what every teacher
in every art and science desires to see in his pupils — intelligent
earnestness and a desire to improve.

THE SPANISH (OR SKITTLE) GAME.

I have not often seen this game— which the Germans call
Kugel-Partie - played in England , but in Vienna and Berlin it
is very popular. It is played with three balls,one red and two
white , and five Skittles of wooden pins. The Skittles are set
up in the centre of the table in a diamond square, about two
inches apart, thus . . . The red ball is placed on the spot,
and the first player strikes at it from one of the corner-spots
in the baulk semicircle. The game is made by Winning
Hazards, Cannons, and by knocking over the Skittles. It is
usually played 21-up, though the number of points may
be increased at the pleasure of the players. The following
are the
 FOREIGN GAMES . 221
CHAP. XIII. ]

RULES AND REGULATIONS.

I
The player who knocks down a pin after striking a ball,
gains two points ; if he knock down two pins, he gains four
points ; and so on, scoring two points for every Skittle knocked
over. If he knock down the middle pin alone,he gains five
points ; but should he topple them all over at one stroke, he
wins the game.

The player who pockets thered ball gains three points, and
two for each pin knocked over by the same stroke.

III
The player who pockets the white ball gains two points, and
two for each pin he knocked down by the same stroke.

IV

The player who knocks down a pin or pins with his own
ball before striking another ball, loses two for every pin so
knocked down.
V
The player who pockets his own ball from another ball
loses all the points he would otherwise have made by the
stroke.
[For instance, if he play at the red ball, pocket it,and make a Cannon ,
and at the same time knock down two pins,and hole himself, he loses
twelve points — three for the red , two for the Cannon , two for each pin ,
and three for his own ball going in off the red.]
222 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

VI

The striker who forces his own ball off the table loses three
points, and if he do so after making a Cannon or Hazard, he
loses asmany points as he would otherwise have gained .
[ The Rules as to foul strokes, & c.are the same as in the English Game,
The players make alternate strokes, after each has scored as many off his
break as he can without missing a Cannon or Hazard .
Sometimes this game is played with seven or nine Skittles,when the
number of points played for is proportionally increased .]

GERMAN PYRAMIDS.

The German Pyramid Game (Pyramiden-Partie) is played

in the following manner : - “ Twenty-one balls are arranged
close to each other in the form of a triangle, bymeans of a
triangular wooden frame. The frame is removed , and the
balls stand on the part of the table of which the spot forms
the centre, and with the base of the Pyramid about a foot
from the cushion . The object of the game is to make a suc
cession of Winning Hazards without once failing, and without
making a Losing Hazard till the balls are all in the pockets.
The player first breaks the mass of balls with his own ball.
This may be effected either by a strong stroke on the point of
the triangle, or (in cases where the player is allowed to miss
once ) by a Bricole taking the small end of the mass angularly,
after which he may drive the remainder of the mass before
his Cue, pocketing as many as he can, except the ball he plays
with . Much depends on the manner in which the balls are
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 223

broken , to ensure a succession of winning strokes into the

different pockets, and for this purpose it is best for the balls
to be spread well over the table. The player selects any ball
he pleases, to play at any other ball so as to make a winning
stroke each time. He is not limited in his choice of ball
either to play with or at— only he is bound to make a Winning
Hazard every stroke, and never to pocket the ball he plays
with . The first failure forfeits the stroke, and the balls have
to be replaced for another player. It is also necessary that
thrée balls should beholed in each pocket,leaving two others to be
disposed of at pleasure. The last stroke of all should bemade
with the player's original ball, pocketing the last ball and at
the same time losing the other , either by a Following-stroke or
Pyramid, or by any other mode of obtaining a Losing Hazard .
Should all these conditions be fulfilled, and the table be cleared
in twenty successive strokes, with at least three balls in each
pocket, the player obtains the highest degree of success, and
scores 398. Should he not succeed in losing his own ball at
the last,as well as pocketing, only half (199) is scored. If he
miss a stroke, so that the game is up before all the balls are
pocketed , the score is determined by the number of balls in
the pockets, provided each pocket is found to contain at least
one ball. The score is then in proportion to the number dis
tributed : as each ball of three in a pocket counts for more
than if it were only one of two, if any pocket has only one
ball, it lessens the value of each of those, however numerous,
in the other pockets ; and a single pocket remaining empty
renders the whole void , and nothing is scored for the game,
whatever number of balls may have been made in other
224 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CHAP. XIII.

pockets. The Marker walks round the table during the play,
and warns the striker how many balls are already placed .
The adversary is perfectly inactive during the alternate games. es .

It is, in fact, a sort of solitaire for each player in turn.

When the first game is over and the score marked, the
balls are replaced for the second player ; and after he is out
the first player resumes, and so on in succession. The scores
of the game on each side are added up at the end of the
match, and he who has scored most wins, bets being regulated
by the number of points.
“ Odds are given by allowing the inferior player to make
one, two, or three faults in the game: i.e. missing his ball, or
his stroke, or losing his own ball so many times in the game.'
The Baulk is no protection in this game for the non
striker's ball.
There is less difficulty '(says the writer I quote) - in playing
the Pyramid on a German table than on ours, the pockets being
cut into the table, instead of being bags extending beyond .
it ; so that in the case of two cushioned balls, either might
pocket the other by a straight stroke, which on our tables
is next to impossible . Indeed, very great skill would be
required to complete the game of 398 on an English table.
The great art consists in varying the stroke, from one pocket
to another, so as to fill all ; the player usually keeping the
ball he plays with nearly stationary, by striking it very low ,
so as to place it for the next stroke, and avoid the risk of a
Losing Hazard.'
CHAP. XIII.] FOREIGN GAMES. 225

THE SAUSAGE GAME.

Wurst-Partie, the German Sausage Game, is so called from
the balls being placed in a row across the centre of the table,
between the middle pockets. Twelve coloured balls are so
arranged , and the object of the player is to hole two in each
pocket. By means of two cues the balls are easily placed
straight across the table. The adept, playing from the baulk
semicircle, strikes the outermost ball of the Sausage, so as to
force at least one ball in the centre pocket. He who succeeds
in pocketing all the balls in the fewest number of strokes, so
as to leave two only in each pocket, wins the game. The
USE
players take strokes alternately, as soon as each fails in making
a Winning Hazard (as in our Pyramids) ; and hewho loses his
own ball in a pocket, gives a Miss, or runs a Coup, forfeits two
points for each . Two points are scored for each ball pocketed ;
but if the striker succeed in placing two balls in one pocket by
two successive Hazards, he scores four points. Thus he may
score the entire game, forty- eight points, without his adversary
making a stroke: a rather unlikely achievement you will
say, but I understand that there are players who occasionally
do this. After his first stroke the player may select any ball
he chooses to play at any other ball ; but he must be careful
not to lose the ball he plays in a pocket, as thereby he not
only forfeits two points, but loses his break. The baulk is no
protection in this game, the player with the ball in hand
being entitled to play at or with any ball on the table. Some
players insist upon the thirteenth ball being pocketed at the last
226 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIII.

stroke, by a Double Hazard, under the penalty of the loss of

four points. All the Rules observed in the English Game, as to
foul strokes, & c., are common to Wurst-Partie.
These are allthe Foreign Games with which I am acquainted .
I was in some doubt whether the American Game should be
placed in this chapter; but as it is founded on Carline, I
thought it right to do so. .
I have refrained from adopting the terms used in some
Foreign Games, asmy book is intended principally for English
readers.
 227

CHAPTER XIV .
CRAMP GAMES.

Musing I lean upon my Cue,

And dream of some past day,
When I made Cannons fast and true,
And Cramp Games oft did play . — The Poet Close.

SERVIRHEN good players contend with amateurs, it is

usual to give the latter somenotable advantages
SVV as thirty points in fifty, seventy in a hundred ,
four balls at Pyramids, and so on . But there are a variety of
curious games which appear to have been invented for the
special behoof of tyros when they find themselves opposed to
firstrates. As some of these are worth knowing, I append
descriptions of the best among them . It is, perhaps, hardly
necessary that I should again warn youngsters against the
manæuvres of the men who make their living by Billiards ;
but Imay say that it is these gentry who are generally most
fond of CrampGames. As an amusing instance of the Games
so called , perhaps the most common is

THE GO -BACK GAME.

This is ordinary Billiards played by wo persons in the usual
way, with Winning and Losing Hazards, Cannons, Misses,
Q2
228 TIIE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIV .

Coups, foul strokes, & c. It is usual to play all Cramp Games

sixteen points up , but of course this number may be increased
or decreased at the will of the players.
The peculiarity of the Go-back Game is this : the inferior
player scores all the points he makes, but his opponent must
either win in a single break, or in the interval of the other's
score ; that is to say, when the superior player has made
(say) ten points, his adversary scores a Winning or Losing
IIazard . The first then goes back to Love, or nothing, and
must begin again when his turn comes. The player giving
the oddsmust of course be able to make a good break when a
favourable opportunity occurs, and he should also know how
to leave the balls “safe ’ when he ceases to score. He goes back
when his opponent makes a Hazard, not when he makes a
Cannon merely ; though some fine players can give their
adversaries the advantage of the Cannon in addition to the
Hazards. It is impossible to calculate the odds at this game,
as so much depends on the relative strength of the players :
Kentfield , however, reckons it as equal to six points in sixteen .
But as all who play the Go-back Game are not Jonathans,
the odds vary with the capacity of the player to score sixteen
at a single break. The player who takes the odds— that is,
he who counts all his points _ breaks the balls ; and then ,
if a Cannon or Hazard is left on the table, there is no
particular difficulty in a good player making sixteen . I have
seen this game played 20 , 30, and even 50-up : for it must be
remembered that the superior player may score ten or fifteen
points, and then , if his opponent fail to score at all, or make
only a Cannon ,he goes on again , and adds (say ) another dozen
CHAP. XIV. ] CRAMP GAMES . 229

to his score,and leaves the balls safe. The amateur plays,and

again fails to make a Hazard. The good player has now a
capital chance of completing the allotted number of points and
winning the game. It may happen , indeed , that he goes back
half-a-dozen or more times,before he succeeds in calling ' game';
but, as a rule, I prefer the player who gives the points. It
is said that Mr. Kentfield has played the Go-back Game with
only one pocket to five, and succeeded in winning half-a
dozen matches in succession . But, then, I should say that his
opponentmust have been a very thorough amateur !

ONE POCKET TO FIVE.

In this game the superior player chooses a single pocket
(generally a top-corner one), and engages to make all his
Hazards in that particular pocket ; while his opponent has the
other five pockets in which to score, in addition to his Cannons.
It would seem that the advantage was wonderfully in favour of
the five pockets,but with a really good player this is notreally
the case. He cannons as often as he can , and often scores the
game right off without making a Hazard at all ; or he is
careful to drive the ball towards his own particular pocket as
often as he can. All the balls holed in his one pocket count
for the superior player, while all Hazardsmade in the other
five pockets go to his adversary's score. But if either player
chance to make a Hazard in the prohibited pocket or pockets,
the points so made are reckoned against him , together with a
Cannon, if one has been made by the same stroke. I have
230 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIV .

played hundreds of games of this kind, and have generally

endeavoured to make as many as possible by Cannons. One of
my old adversaries— you would all know his name if I were to
mention it --was so very clever in avoiding my pocket, thatmy
great and almost my only chance of winning lay in making
Cannons; but with ordinary players the odds are equalto about
fifty points out of a hundred - half the game, in fact. All the
rules of Billiards are observed in this capital Cramp Game.

TWO POCKETS TO FOUR.

This game is played in precisely the same way as the last,
except that the one player has four pockets instead of five , and
the other two pockets instead of one. All the rules of Bil
liards are observed . Cannons count as usual. The odds
between even players is reckoned to be about ten points in
fifty .

THE LIMITED GAME.

The table is divided down the centre, longitudinally,and any
Hazard or Cannon made on the side prohibited is forfeited to
your opponent. It is a slow , stupid,and unscientific game!

SIDE AGAINST SIDE.

Between equal players this is not an uninteresting game.
One player takes the three pockets on one side of the table,
CHAP . XIV.] CRAMP GAMES. 231

and the other the pockets on the opposite side. Cannons count
as in Billiards, and all Hazards made on the player's own side
of the table, add two or three points each, as they may be red
or white, to his score. But if he pocket a ball on his oppo
nent's side, the points made are reckoned against him . The
ordinary rules of Billiards are observed, with these excep
tions :

If the striker has made the last Hazard in the game, and his
adversary take up a balloff the table, the game is over,and
the striker wins it , although his ball should afterwards go into
his adversary 's pocket.
II

If the striker, after having made the last Hazard in the

game, should take up or move the balls when running, so as
to prevent them going into his adversary's pocket,he loses the
Hazard .
III

If the striker make a Hazard in his adversary 's pocket, and

at the same time force his ball off the table , the Hazard scores
against him .

THE STOP-GAME.
The peculiarity in this game is that the player's ball must
not touch a cushion , either in making a Hazard or Cannon , with
a single exception — that of playing Bricole at a ball in baulk .
The game is generally played by allowing one player allthe
advantages of ordinary Billiards, while the other is debarred
from touching a cushion with his own ball under penalty of
 D
232 THE BILLIAR BOOK . [CHAP. XIV .

forfeiting one point,and not being allowed to score the Hazard

or Cannon he makes.
RULES OF THE STOP -GAME .
I
Should the player's ball touch a cushion he loses one point ;
but no more , even though it touch it several times.
II

Should the player make a Cannon or Hazard , and his ball

afterwards touch the cushion , he loses one point, and does not
score the Cannon or Hazard .
III
In playing for a Hazard, if the ball go into the pocket it
scores even though it touch the edge of the cushion, which
forms the shoulder of the pocket, provided it does not double
upon both sides of the pocket.
IV
In playing back at a ball in baulk , the striker is allowed to
touch one cushion only with his ball : if his ball touch two
cushions he loses one point.
All the other Rules of ordinary Billiards are observed in this
game.

THE NOMINATION GAME.

This is ordinary Billiards with a difference,and it may be
played any number of points up. The exception is that each
player is obliged to name his stroke before making it ; and if
he fail to make the stroke named, any Cannon or Hazard made
CHAP. XIV .] CRAMP GAMES. 233

by that stroke is reckoned towards his adversary's game. It

is commonly played by adversaries who cannot agree about
the proportion of luck that may fall to the share of each .
Except among good players it is uninteresting. In naming a
Cannon it is required that the player shall say whether he
intends to make it direct, or off the cushion .

THE COMMANDING GAME.

This is the regular game of Billiards played by two per
sons, one of whom has the advantage of all he makes, while
the other is only allowed to make the stroke named by his
adversary. The points are reckoned to be about equal to
twelve in sixteen . In addition to the ordinary Laws of Bil
liards, the following are the generally-accepted
RULES .
I

The striker who plays at a different ball from that com

manded,must replace the ball so played at.
ma

11

The striker who misses the ball he is commanded to play at,

and strikes the other, loses one point for the Miss, and the balls
must be replaced ; and should he make a Hazard or Cannon ,
it does not count.
III :

If the striker's ball be so situated that he cannot get at the

ball he is commanded to play at, so as to score, he must give
a Miss, or endeavour to hit it by Bricole from a cushion.
234 THE BILLLARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIV .

IV
If the striker's ball touch one ball, and he is commanded to
play at the other, he may, if he can do so without moving the
ball in contact with his own, score all the points he makes by
the stroke.

If the striker is commanded to play at the ball that touches

his own, it is a foul stroke, and cannot be made.

CHOICE OF BALLS.

In this game, either player may strike at or with either of

the three balls. It is commonly played against an adversary
who plays in the usual way , or against one who scores from
Hazards only. When the three balls are close together in the
form of a triangle, the number of Cannons that may be made,
by playing first with one ball and then with another, is incal
culable — provided , of course ,that the striker play with ordinary
caution and skill.

WINNING AGAINST WINNING -AND-LOSING

HAZARDS AND CANNONS.

The name of this game sufficiently explains itself. The

game is usually played by a professor against an amateur,
when the odds in favour of the latter depend on the relative
strength of each player.
Chap. XIV .] CRAMP GAMES. 235

THE BAR -HOLE GAME.

One pocket is closed to each player, and all Hazards made

in it count against the player. Between equal players, of
course there are no odds ; but if the inferior player has the
advantage of all the pockets, then the game becomes simply
five pockets to six. It is an uninteresting game, and is now
very seldom played . All the usual Laws of Billiards are
observed .

THE BRICOLE GAME.

This game has been already explained in the Doublet Game

(pp. 214, 215 ) ; but as it differs somewhat from that, I may
as well describe it, and so concludemy list.
Playing Bricole is playing a ball against a cushion so
as to make it return or recoil upon a ball on the opposite
side or in another part of the table. It is sometimes
played against the Winning-and -Losing Cannon Game, when
the odds in favour of the latter are very great - perhaps
equal to seventeen out of twenty -five. When both players
play Bricole ten points make the game. The points are made
only from Bricole Hazards and Cannons, all points not so
made being reckoned against the player.
RULES OF THE BRICOLE GAME.

The player who strikes his adversary 's ball, without pre
236 THE BILLARD BOOK . [CHAP. XIV .

viously making his ball rebound from the cushion , forfeits

one point.
11
Should the player,after striking his adversary's ball without
a previous rebound from the cushions, pocket his own ball, or
force it over the table , he forfeits three points.
If, after playing Bricole,and striking his opponent's ball, the
player pocket his own ball, or force it over the table, he
forfeits two points.
The other Rules and Regulations are the same as in ordinary
Billiards.

Here I conclude my account of the games usually played

upon the Billiard Table. And here also I conclude my
directions for playing, which I hope you have not found
tedious or unprofitable. I might go on for another hundred
pages or so , and amuse you with a variety of anecdotes about
all sorts of players ; how Lord A . made and won his great
match against the celebrated Peter Botherum ,making the last
eight points by a wonderful Sidestroke-following-screw ; how
Lord B . paid all his college debts with the proceeds of one
night's play at the United University Club ; how the Marquis
C . got rooked and plucked when he played Single Pool with
Dufferton, the well-known Marker at the Promenade Billiard
Rooms, Sandandshelton — and so on through the rest of the
Peerage. I might tell you how many a scion of a noble house
made out his income by Billiards; and how scores of well
born cadets and fine gentlemen disdain not to descend to
ungentlemanly tricks for the sake of loose half-crowns and
Chap. XIV.]
Сн
CRAMP GAMES. 237

stray sovereigns. But I shall do nothing of this sort ; for if I

did, you would probably set it all down as bunkum and fan
faronade, got up for the sole purpose of showing you what
excellent company I kept, and how thoroughly I was hand-and
glove with the aristocracy. You know what thorough humbugs
those writing fellows are, and therefore it is pure waste of
time to attempt to bamboozle you with such nonsense ! But
a good deal of truth might be told in this way, nevertheless ;
and perhaps, some day, I may sit down seriously and prepare
my Diary for publication. But just now I have other fish to
fry , as the old adage has it. To sum up the moral of my
book in a few sentences, I may say that no man can become
a good Billiard-player who lacks docility and application.
Not that any special genius is requisite for the making of a
good player . The quality which distinguishes players from
tyros is perseverance — real assiduous practice , and not simply
the knocking about the balls for amusement. How , think
you, did Roberts acquire his astonishing facility of execution ,
but by constant practice ? The “ Spot-stroke, for instance,
may be learned in an hour ; but to enable a man to repeat
that particular stroke for an indefinite number of times
requires almost as much application as the learning of a new
language, or the solution of a difficult mathematical problem .
I do not expect you to rival the professors, who , it is well
known, think nothing of half-a-dozen hours' practice at a
single Hazard . Good knowledge of Strengths and Angles is
themain assistant to the first-rate player. You must accustom
yourself to study the specialties of the Table, the Cue, and the
Balls ; and to profit by every “ coign of 'vantage ' that pre
238 THE BILLIARD BOOK . CHAP. XIV .

sents itself ; never allowing a momentary failure to discourage

you, but persevering till you accomplish your object. The
great art and beauty ofmodern Billiard -play lies in the making
of long scores from a succession of Hazards and Cannons: and
these long scores can only be made by players who thoroughly
master the theory of Strengths and Angles.
Enough ! If what I havewritten be carefully read — if each
separate diagram be well tested on the Table — if you follow
the directions given for the proper handling of your Cue, and
the nice application of the Side-stroke and the Division of the
Object-ball, you will soon be a good player : but if you peruse
my book as you would a novel, for mere amusement's sake,
you can hardly hope to hold your own against the Dons of
the Clubs !
 239

CHAPTER XV.
HOW TO FIT UP A BILLIARD ROOM .

By Jove, a noble room — well lighted too ! _ BYRON .

T O ILLIARDS is never so pleasantly played as in a

country -house, where friends meet friends, and a
L ES game goes on as merrily in the morning as at
night. Many persons are deterred , however, from fitting up a
Billiard Room from a notion that the thing is awfully ex
pensive. But this need not necessarily be. You can have
an excellent table, seats, lights, cues, marking-board , and all
complete for any sum between a hundred and two hundred
pounds. A good large apartment, or a dry stable or outhouse,
can be converted into a Billiard Room , at comparatively small
expense. The room for a full-sized table should be not less
than 15 feet 6 inches wide by 21 feet long ; but 18 feet by
24 would be a much better size. The floor should be per
fectly free from vibration . This can be secured by bracing
the joists,or by laying them on piers. A ground-floor is best;
but when an upper floor is used , two parallel walls should be
built underneath the joists ; and the table should be so placed
that its legs rest on these walls, or on a floor affixed to them .
When the table is placed , its horizontality is tested by a
240 THE BILLIARD BOOK. [CAAP, XV.

spirit-level ; and then , if it be once made straight and even, it

may not need levelling for years, for the weight of the table
will keep it in its place. A skylight affords the best light;
but where that is not possible, there should be windows on
each side of the room . In order to avoid shadows, the sky
light should be rather longer than the table. The cushions
for the tables of club -houses and public-rooms are always of
the best native India-rubber ; but as this requires a constant
temperature of at least 50 degrees in cold weather, native
rubber is not well adapted for private houses where such a
proportion of heat is not easily obtainable. Vulcanized rubber
is therefore substituted , as it is almost unaffected by heat,
cold , or frost. But vulcanized rubber cushions are rather less
lively than those made of native caoutchouc, on account of the
manner in which it is prepared . Stuffed lounges, or sofas raised
on a dais, are a great improvement to the look of a room , and
they enable spectators to witness a game with ease,and without
incommoding the players. To be thoroughly lighted at night,
the table should be furnished with six burners, so placed as to
throw an equal light all over the play. The burners should
be fitted with shades, green outside and white within . In the
absence of gas, belmontine, colza, or sperm oils are used.
The first-mentioned gives, I think, a light nearly equal to, but
less intense than, gas.
Every well-appointed Billiard Room should possess a Cue
rack and a couple of dozen Cues, in addition to a Rest,
a Half-butt and Rest, a Long-butt and Rest,and a Spider for
Pyramids. The Marking-board should be a compound one,
for the marking of Billiards, Pool, and Pyramids. In a
CHAP.XV.] HOW TO FIT UP A BILLIARD ROOM . 241

corner of the room there should be a small lavatory , fitted with

looking-glass and toilet apparatus ; and the Marker should be
furnished with two brushes and a solid iron, with which to
keep the table in order. At night, and at such other times
as it is out of use , the table should be covered with a holland
cloth , without weights , to keep it free from dust. The
proper complement of balls is — two sets of three each for
Billiards, a dozen of the proper colours for Pool, and a Pool
basket ; with a full set of Pyramid -balls, in a triangular box.
The Russian and American Games can be played with the
Pool-balls. The Frontispiece showsmy idea of what a Billiard
Room should be in a gentleman's house.
An ingenious contrivance , entitled “ Vaile's PatentCombined
Dining and Billiard Table, has been made public since the
first sheet of this volume was sent to press. It is admirably
adapted for houses in which space cannot be found for a
regular Billiard Room . The slate top is made to rise from
the bed of the table by means of a compound screw , which
holds it in position, and renders it perfectly rigid and steady.
Any unevenness in the floor is remedied by a simple levelling
apparatus; and when not in play, the whole can be easily
and quickly converted into a dining-table. This useful com
bination is manufactured by Messrs. Herring, Son, and Clark ,
of 109 Fleet Street, in various sizes and styles.
A good Billiard Table in a private house is a real luxury,
and when once purchased costs little in the way of repairs.
The Cloth lasts from three to four years without turning, after
which , if it be not torn or much stained, it will stand two
years' more wear. The Balls and Cues are almost indestruc
242 THE BILLIARD BOOK . [CHAP. XV.

tible ; indeed , a favourite Cue may be re-tipped and kept in

repair for any length of time.
A lad can soon be taught to mark the game and keep the
Table in order. Hewill quickly acquire such a knowledge of
the various games as will serve to make him , in the absence
of a better, a tolerable opponent for all purposes of practice.
But where there are ladies in the house, you never need be in
want of a game; for I have always found that ladies make
excellent Billiard -players - graceful, courteous, and invariably
good-tempered .
 243

APPENDIX ( A ).

On the Law that Angles of Reflection are equal to

Angles of Incidence.
EWTON 'S second law of motion states, that if any forces
I act upon a body, at rest or in motion, each force pro
's duces the same effect as if it acted alone upon the body
? at rest. Thus, if an impulse in direction A B were
given to a particle, which would cause the particle to move with a
velocity represented by A B , if it acted alone ; and if another im
pulse in direction AC would , if acting alone, cause the particle to
move with velocity represented by AC ; then , completing the
parallelogram ABCD, Newton's
law allows us to assert that, sup
posing these two impulses simul
taneously communicated , the par-
ticle would in consequence move in
the diagonal AD, with a velocity
represented by AD on the same scale as before. All the predic
tions in Astronomy depend upon the truth of this law ,which is there
fore an experimental fact, established upon as firm a basis as any
fact which is known to science .
2. Newton's third law of motion states that action and reaction are
equal and opposite. This law ,which has the samebasis to rest upon ,
allows us to assert that, if a ball A overtake a ball B ,
both moving in the same direction , themomentum which
is taken from A is exactly equal to that gained by B
during the impact, the momentum being measured by the
mass x velocity generated or destroyed : so that in Billiards, where
R 2
244 THE BILLIARD BOOK.

the balls are equal in mass, the velocity added to B is equal to

that taken away from A .
3. The whole action between two balls impinging directly may be
represented by the three figures :
2. 3.

Between the states ( 1) and ( 2) the balls are being compressed from
the first contact, until A 's velocity has been diminished , and B 's
increased sufficiently to make them at the instant of greatest com
pression move with equal velocities ; between the states (2 ) and ( 3 )
the balls are recovering form until the final contact, A 's velocity being
continually diminished and B 's increased . If the elasticity is what
is called perfect, the velocity gained by B during compression, from
(1) to (2), is exactly equal to that gained during restitution of form ;
and the same is true, of course, for the velocities lost by A .
If the elasticity be imperfect, the velocity gained during restitu
tion is always less in a fixed ratio than that gained during compres
sion, the ratio being fixed for each substance - -for glass balls amount
ing to nearly 15ths, and less for ivory. The whole action takes
place in too short a time to be appreciated , but these results have
been deduced from a series of careful experiments of various kinds.
4 . In order to understand clearly the effect of friction , consider
first the effect of impact in the simplest case of oblique incidence
upon a cushion supposed smooth, in
which the size of the ball does not
I

enter into the consideration . Let A B

be the direction of motion of a ball
obliquely incident on a cushion QR, P
being the point of contact. If AB
represents the magnitude of the velo
city, at the instant of striking, this
velocity is equivalent to two velocities represented by D B parallel
to the cushion, and C B perpendicular to it. Consider therefore
 APPENDIX . 245

separately, by Newton 's second law , how these velocities will be

affected by the impact, on reflection : D B , the velocity before
impact, will be unaltered ; take B E , equal to D B , to represent this
velocity; the velocity perpendicular, represented by CB, is destroyed
during compression, and during restitution a velocity less than B C is
generated in the opposite direction ; this velocity , represented by
BF, bears a fixed ratio to BC, for example 5 : 7, if this be the
measure of elasticity. Complete the parallelogram BF G E , and BG
represents the magnitude and direction of the velocity of the reflected
ball, the angle F B G being greater than A B C .
This is the complete case for a cushion imagined to be smooth and
imperfectly elastic.
5 . In order to explain the effect of friction , it is necessary to give
the results of certain calculations made in Dynamics relating to
angular velocity, or twist given to a
spherical ball by a stroke given to
it, whose direction does not pass
through the centre.
Let A CB be a diameter perpen
dicular to the direction of the blow
whose line of action meets it in M ,
and let v be the velocity which an
equal blow whose line of action passes through C would give to the
5V X CM
ball ; then degree of twist is measured by 2 AC XAC ; for example .
if CM = = A C ,while the ball advanced through a space equal to AC,
it would in the same time have twisted through an angle A Ca , such
5

that Aa = AC.
6 . Suppose now a ball to move in the direction A B and to impinge
at P on a rough cushion, i.e. so rough as to prevent all sliding at P ;
and, for example, suppose the elasticity to be between ball and
cushion. The velocity BC, as before, is reversed into velocity
BH = BC.
246 THE BILLIARD BOOK .
The effect of friction is the same as a blow given to the ball at P .
Such a blow applied to the ball at rest (by Newton's second law ) would
give a velocity v to the centre of the
ball in direction BD, and at the
same time a twist in the direction
u 5V ,
= 2 AC Therefore, combining
the previous motion with the effect
of the friction , we have the centre
B moving in direction DB, with
linear velocity = DB – V , and the
ball twisting with angular velocity = .2 AC- Now P is at rest ; there

fore, its advance D B - v, by linear velocity , is equal to its regres

WD 50w2DB
sion by the twist,so that DB - v = ","; whence v = 205 , : .
the velocity of B resulting from friction is D B - v = 3 , repre
sented by BE ; hence B G in this case must be drawn in such a
direction that B E , B H are both less than B D , B C in the samepro
portion . With this elasticity therefore, not an unlikely one in a
billiard -table, the angle of reflection is exactly equal to the angle of
incidence ; so that, in spite of the imperfection of the elasticity, the
law of equality of angles of incidence and reflection holds, the com
pensation having been made by the roughness of the table , and the
resistance to a twist caused by the inertia of the ball, which has
been estimated in the expression for the amount of twist given above.
A slight modification of the elasticity assumed and of the degree of
roughness of the cushion will not be sufficient to make any practical
difference, but it is absolutely necessary to enter into all the consider
ations given above, if any reason is to be given for this law of equality .
7. The same kind of reasoning would hardly establish the law
approximately, with respect to a ball striking a ball instead of a
cushion , even if the ball struck were fixed in its position, in which
case it would act like an ivory cushion on account of the small
friction between balls ; but the establishment of any law with respect
 APPENDIX . 247

to a moveable ball is a much more serious affair. I think, however,

that I can show , by a diagram in a very common case, that there is no
approximation whatever to the law of equality of angles of incidence
and reflection when one ball strikes another which is not fixed .
For a common corner-bazard, in which you wish to use a stroke
without side ' and a half-ball division : QBA is the direction of
motion of the striker's ball pass ds t >
ar ke
ing through the edge of the Tow Poc
object-ball, so that the line BC,
joining their centres when in con
tact, is double of A C ; hence the
angle of incidence is one-third of
a right-angle, and if the angle of
reflection were equal to that of
incidence, B S would be the di
rection of reflection instead of
BR, which makes the angle of reflection about three times as great
as the angle of incidence.
8 . Supposing beginners to want an explanation of the effect of
side, it is not hard to give an account of any particular case, such as

the elementary one of bringing the ball back into baulk by a stroke
from the baulk to a point of the cushion some little distance out of
baulk .
248 THE BILLIARD BOOK .

The velocity, as before, is equivalent to two - one represented

by C B , and the other by DB; C B towards is turned into B H from
the cushion . The twist given, in direction of the arrow , to the ball
A in baulk , about a vertical diameter,makes the point P in the ball
at the instant before contact move much quicker than if there were
no twist, in the direction FP; consequently the reaction of the
cushion in P F is much greater, and is in fact, if the twist be strong
enough, sufficient to change the velocity D B into a velocity B E in
the opposite direction greater than D B ; the consequence is, a motion
B G is the diagonal of the parallelogram E BHG .
9 . It is generally admitted , that increase of the velocity at impact
cn a cushion diminishes the angle of reflection ; but allmy readers
may not feel equally certain of the explanation of this experimental
fact, in which most billiard-players will agree, but I think it may be
accounted for. Supposing that the check in direction PF (see fig . Art.
6 ), by which themotion of the.point of contact P was arrested , ismore
perfect in consequence of the bite of the cushion being increased, by
a greater portion of the surface of the ball being exposed to the
action of the cushion, so that the velocity D B is
more diminished with the greater blow than
the small one, then, BE being less, the angle
CBG is smaller.
10. The cause of the return of the ball in the
case of the screw is very distinct. By the underneath stroke the
ball receives a velocity onwards in AB, and at the same time an
angular motion in direction CD, causing the point P to scrub on
the cloth ; and so the friction in direction PF is brought into play,

Bt

which tends to continually diminish both the velocity AB and the

angular velocity CD, which it has not time entirely to destroy ; so
 APPENDIX . 249

that when the ball E is struck ,what remains of AB may be de

stroyed, and the remaining angular velocity causes the ball to return
by the action on P in direction P F.
11. The parabolic motion of the ball in the case of a heavy side,
by which A passes round B and strikes C , is caused by the friction

in PF, brought into play by the revolution about an axis ab, inclined
the vertical PQ, by which the point of contact is scrubbing in

direction of the arrow c, i.e. in direction FP, friction acting contrary

to the motion in PF.
12. The billiard-student may test the equality of angles of incidence
and reflection by measuring the direction in the following way :
To strike B by one reflection at a cushion DP, make A a perpen
dicular to DB, and take a D = AD ; join a B , cutting the cushion at P ,
which will be the point of contact to be aimed at.
250 THE BILLIARD BOOK.

More accurately, in consequence of the breadth of the balls, D ' P'

ought to be drawn parallel to the cushion,at a distance equal to the
ball's semidiameter, and a'd ' = AD' ; P ' is then the point to be
aimed at, or Q a little higher than P .

삶 파

Or to cannon from 3 cushions, from red on spot to W in baulk .

Draw Rer perpendicular to CD, sr = 8 R, rm perpendicular to AD,

and tm = rm , Wuw perpendicular to A B ,uw = uW ; join wt, meet

ing AB in T and A D in Q , join Qr, meeting CD in P , join TW .
RPQTW is the course of the ball, so that he places his ball
at S so as to strike P , and the rest follows.
 251

APPENDIX ( B ) .
On the placing of the Striker's Ball in Baulk in a proper position
to secure a succession of Middle Pocket Hazards, & c.
e nor ET us suppose the Object-ball placed in a convenient
position for a middle pocket hazard , and the striker's
ball in hand . The intention of the striker is twofold :
Car To secure the losing hazard , and to make the Object
ball return to the same position, for a second hazard .
No definite rule can be given which will enable a player to carry
out this intention , suggestions are all that can be offered . You must
first determine the strength necessary to bring the Object-ball back
to the same or an equally convenient position , and then obtain a
measure of the angle of deviation of the striking -ball after impact
with the Object-ball, for a particular strength , viz. that which you
have determined, and for a particular division of the Object-ball.
By ' angle of deviation ' I mean this. Let ABA' be the line of
aim of the striker's ball, BP its course after impact with the Object
ball. Then A 'BP is the angle of deviation, the - A.
ball being made to deviate from its original
course ABA' into ABP through the angle A'BP.
You may, if you prefer it, take a measure of
its supplement, the angle ABP .
The particular division I spoke of is dif
ferent with different players, some preferring a
half ball, and others a fuller or a finer ball.
The advantage is with the half-ball, because a
slight error of aim produces with this division, the least corresponding
error in the angle of deviation ; it is also a more definite division, and,
therefore , easier to effect, only you should endeavour to keep always
to the same division in simple strokes. I should say that no side or
screw is yet to be used. Ordinary strength sufficient to bring the ball
252 THE BILLIARD BOOK .

back, and your particular division produce what is called your

“ natural angle of deviation ,' and this is what you have to obtain a
measure of, which continual practice and accurate observation alone
can secure. Having determined it you must draw, in your eye,
through the Object-ball B a line ABA', so that the angle A 'BP may
be equal to your natural angle. The point where this line meets the
baulk line, or indeed any point of it that lies within the baulk
semicircle, is the spot required where you are to place your ball. It
may happen, however,that this line does not fall within the baulk
semicircle at all ; the stroke is then more difficult ; you must place
your ball as near as possible to the line you have drawn and then
make a proportionate change in your strength, or division, or both ,
or apply side or screw , as youmay think fit. This happens, of course,
when you have failed to bring the ball back to the proper position .
I have as yet said nothing about the direction taken by the
Object-ball, in fact I have supposed it to be originally in the most
favourable position, where a half-ball division and a certain strength
will bring it again into position. Let us now go a step further. It
is easy to see that if you allow the Object-ball to approach too near
to the side cushion , a greater nicety of strength is required .
Let ACc, B D dd',be the lines in which
the ball returns in two different cases. C
and D being the most favourable posi
tions for a hazard into the pocket P. If
a slight error Cc be made in strength ,
no losing hazard can be made without a
difficult following stroke, whereas in the
other case an equal error, Dd ,or a greater
error, Dd', will but slightly increase the
difficulty of the hazard . You should ,
therefore, endeavour to prevent the ball
from coming within a certain distance of
the side cushion . To do this you must
narrowly watch the direction it will take
after it is struck , remembering that this
direction is the line joining the centres of the balls when they
 APPENDIX . 253

are in contact. Let us examine a case . Let C be the centre of

the Object -ball in a favourable position for a losing hazard into
the middle pocket. CC" limiting positions
to which the ball may return to secure a
second hazard , and let A , B , be points on
the cushion , which the ball will hit in order
so to return . Join AC, BC , and produce them
to meet the circumference of the ball in a , b .
Then if the ball be struck at any point
within the arc ab, it will return to a favour
able position. You may then within the
limit ab choose your own division , if the
• half ball ’ division falls within that limit it
is an easy stroke, if not, you must change
your division and consequently your angle of
deviation , and the stroke is more difficult.
All that I have said applies to a great extent
to losing hazards in the corner pockets,- except that a different
strength is required. It is also advisable to endeavour to bring the
Object-ball into position for a middle pocket bazard rather than for
a second corner pocket hazard , as the latter are usually found more
difficult. The same suggestions may be offered with regard to Can
nons, P being supposed to be the second ball instead of the pocket.
Your great object should be to obtain and carry in your eye a correct
measure of the natural angle of deviation. Your next step is to
observe the change produced in it by a change of strength or a change
of division, by application of side or screw or by any combination of
au
any or all of these, you will thus be able to make Hazards or Can
nons, when you cannot move your own ball at all or sufficiently to
make the necessary angle of deviation a natural' one.
INDEX .
 INDEX .

ADV BUTT
ADVICE to young players, 127, 145 Billiards,forbidden by stat.30 Geo .III.,5
A " A la royale,' the game of three , - objects of the various games, 6
how played, 150 - the gameas formerly played, 130
American game, the, how played, 202, - English billiards of the present day
203 described, 131
– lawsand regulations of thegame,204 — laws ofbilliards, 133
Angle, explanation of the term , 14 – rules for visitors, 145
Angles of reflection equal to angles of - advice to young players, 145
incidence, on the law of, 243 - the match of four, 149
- ' a la royale,' the game of three, 150
- handicap sweepstakes, 151
PALL, the divided, showing the va - white winning game, 152
D rious places at which it may be - white losing game, 154
struck for side,' 58 -- red winning cannon game, 155
Balls, description of the, used for va - white losing cannon game, 161
rious games, 13 Billiard tables, miniature, 2
- care required in producing true balls, - description of the best full-sized
54 tables, 6
- division of both , 63, 65 -- former shapes, 7
– choice of, how played, 234 – ordinary tables of the French pro
Bar- hole game, how played, 235 vinces, 7
Baulk , baulk line,baulk circle, explana - billiard table makers, 13
tion of the terms, 15 - billiard table tricks, 117
– playing a ball out of,57 Breaks, good , 72
Betting with strangers, 198 , 199, 219 Breeches, the pair of, 66
Billiard marker, story of the, 119 Bricolehazard ,explanation ofthe term ,16
Billiard player, qualities of a good, 237 Bricole game, how played, 235
- the professional, 47 — rules of the game, 235
– his tricks anddisreputable manauvres, Bridge, how to make the, 26
49 - the high bridge, 27, 28
Billiard room , how to fit up a , 237 - the bridge for ordinary strokes, 29
Billiards, as an indoor game, 2 -- examples of bad and awkward
– for ladies, 2 bridges, 29
- invention of the game, 3 Butt, description of the, 12
– at the beginning of the eighteenth 1 - use of the butt, 12
century , 4 Butt, the half, 12
258 INDEX .

CAN HAZ
MANNON , or carambole, explanation | Cue, point of the cue for side, 59, 60
U of the term , 15 - position and manner of holding the
Cannons, formerly the main game of .cue for the smash ,' 191
þilliards, 85 Cue- rack , the, 12
- excellence of the French at cannons, Cushions,6 , 7
86 – effects of temperature on the elasti
- how to cannon successfully, 86 city of the, 43
- law of cannons, 86 , 87
- direct cannons, 89
- cushion cannons, 90 DIP,the, 39
- examples of cannons, 96 – how to make the, 39, 40, 118
- - Cristmas's sixty -four consecutive Division of both balls, 65
cannons, 96 Doublet, or double, explanation of the
- - side-stroke cannons, 97 – 110 term , 15
- - side-stroke versus regular angle, Doublet game, how played , 214
111, 112 - doublet winning hazard , 84
- - illustrations of the side-strokes,
113, 115
- - cannonsby division,or side- stroke, TINGLISH game, 131
114 V Everlasting pool, 181
- - ten -stroke, 124, 127
- - wide screw -cannons, 125
- - eight- stroke, 125 TVOREIGN games, 202
- - the red winning cannon game, T Tour, the match of, how played,
155 149
- - the red losing cannon game, 161 | French billiavds, 5
Carline, or Caroline, how played, 209 - the French cannon game, how
- Kentfield's method of playing car played, 215
line, 212 - - rules of the game, 215
Chevalier, the lucky, his trick , 48 - - the cannon game as usually
Cleopatra playing billiards, 3, 4 in England, 217
Commanding game, how played , 233 – the French winning game, how
- rules of the game, 233 played , 214
Coup, or coo, explanation of the term ,
17
Cramp games, 227 NAMES, the various, 130 et seg.
Cramp-strokes, 117, 124 German game, 225
Cristmas, his sixty -four consecutive Go-back game, how played , 227
cannons, 96
Cue, description of the, 8
- proper selection of one, 8 ANDICAP sweepstakes, 151
- themace, 9 11 Hazard , explanation of the term ,
- how to use the cue, 9 16
- - for all ordinary strokes, 19, 26 — winning and losing hazards, 16
- - for – how to make hazards, 18
– position of the cue for side-stroke, - - position, 19
I!

55 - - for an ordinary hazard , 21

- and for reverse side- stroke, 55 - - for a hard hazard, 22
 INDEX. 259

HAZ POT
Hazard, position for a top hazard, 23 T ADIES, games for, 2
- - - for a hazard close against a 1 - a lady's position in making
side cushion, 24 hazard, 19, 20
- - - for a back hazard, 25 Limited game, the, 230
- - the bridge, 26 Line-ball, explanation of the term , 15
- - - the high bridge, 27 , 28
- - - the bridge for all ordinary
strokes, 28, 29 MACE, the,9
- - - examples of bad and awkward 11 Marker, story of the, 119
bridges, 29 Marking -board description of the, 12
III|

– the stroke, 29 – use of the, 13

- - - central stroke, 34 Miss, explanation of the term , 16
!I

- high stroke, 34 , 40
- high following stroke, 34, 40
- - - high oblique stroke, 35, 40
- - low stroke, 37 NOMINATION game, how played,
- - - the screw , 37 232
losing hazards, object of, 70
- - how to make them , 71
- - diagramsof variouslosing hazards,
73, 77 OBJECT- BALL, explanation of the
- winning hazards,how to make,78 term , 17
-- - with the stop -stroke, 79, 80 - division of the object-ball, 49
I

- - conversion of winning hazards - - meaning of the phrase, 49

into straight hazards, 79 - - full ball, 49 , 50
the centre ten stroke, 81 - - half ball, 49, 50
II!

-
- the slow screw , 81 - - straight ball, 50
the spot stroke, 82 - - three -quarter ball, 50
the side twist, 83 - - illustration of the theory of di
– rule for winning hazards, 83 viding the object -ball, 51
- -- diagrams of winning hazards, 831 - division of both balls , 63, 65
- on placing the striker 's ball in baulk One pocket to five, how played , 227
in a proper position to secure a suc
cession of middle pocket hazards, 251
POOL, present state of, 163
( TALIAN game of billiards, 5 1 – how played , 164
- the laws of pool, 167
– general observations, 176
ENNY, explanation of the term , 16 Pool-basket strokes, 118
Pool, everlasting, 181
-- laws of the game, 181
KENTFIELD, ‘ Jonathan,' his play, Pool, nearest ball, how played, 180
74 - rules of the game, 180
- his fame as a cannon - striker, 111 Pool, single, how played, 179
- his method of playing carline, 212 Pool, skittle, how played, 183
Kiss, the, 126 - rules and directions for play, 184
Kugel-partie, 220 Pot, penny, how played, 187
s 2
260 INDEX .

PYR STR

Pyramids, how played , 188 | Spot -stroke, the, 82

- position and manner of holding the Stark ,Mr., the New York player, 202
cue for the smash ,' 191 Stop-ball,the, 79
- lawsof pyramids, 192 Stop-game, how played, 231
- advice to young players, 196 – rules of the game, 232
Pyramids,German, how played , 222 Stop -stroke, 80
Pyramids,losing, how played, 200 Strengths, 43
- how to modify the strength of the
stroke, 44 -46
PED losing cannon game, how played, - illustration of strengths and angles,
I 161 46
- rules of the game, 162 Striker's ball, explanation of the term ,
Red winning cannon -game, how played, 17
155 Stroke, the, 16 , 29
— rules of the game, 157 - differentmodes of striking, 31
Rest, or jigger, description of the, 10 - way in which the stroke is to be
- use of the rest, 10 , 11 made, 33
- seldom used by good players, 69 - - central stroke, 34
Rest, the half, 12 - - high stroke, 16, 34, 40
Roberts, his play, 74 - - high following stroke, 16, 34, 40,
- his rooms in Leicester Square, 203
Rules of the various games, 130 et seg. - - high oblique stroke, 35, 40
Russian game, 209 - - low stroke, 16 , 37
- - the screw , or twist, 37
- how to modify the strength of the
SAUSAGE game, how played , 225 l stroke, 44 -46
D Screw , or twist, explanation of — meaning of the side-stroke, 16, 53
the term , 17 – how to make the side-stroke, 55
- effects of the screw , 37 - - position of the cue, 55
– the high oblique screw , 38, 40 - - and for reverse side-stroke, 55
- the reverse screw , 39 - - playing a ball out of baulk ,57
- the dip and the high screw , 39, 40 - quantity of side requisite, 57
- the slow -screw , 81 - - the divided ball, showing the
Screw cannons, wide, 125 various places at which it may be
Shell-out, how played, 200 struck for " side,' 58
Side against side, how played , 230 - the side never communicated, 59
Side-stroke. See Stroke - explanation of the strokes shown in
Side-twist, the, 83 Diagram VII., 61
Skittle game. See Spanish Game – how to play the proper stroke at the
Skittle pool, 183 proper time, 64
Smash, the, 190, 191 - division of both balls, 65
Spanish, or Skittle-game, how played, - the top stroke, 79, 80
220 — the centre ten- stroke, 81
– rules and regulations of the game, - the spot-stroke, 82
221 - the side -twist, 83
Spider, the, 10 - side -stroke cannons, 97 -110
Spots, the winning and losing, 7 - side-stroke versus regular angle, 111,
- centre and baulk spots, 7 112
 INDEX. 261
STR WIN
Stroke, illustrations of the side-stroke, | Twist, or screw , explanation of the
113, 115 term , 117
- cramp-strokes and side- strokes, 117 , – effects of the screw , 37
124 Two pockets to four,how played, 230
- the pool-basket stroke, 118
- the ten -stroke, 124, 127
- eight-stroke, 125 W HITE losing game,how played, 154
– rules of the game, 154
White winning game, how played , 152
TIEN -STROKE, 124 - rules of the game, 152
1 Ten -stroke, the centre, 81 Winning
131
and losing carambole game,
Terms, technical, used in billiards, 14
Trick -strokes, 118 Winning against winning-and-losing
Trucks, how played, 5 hazards and cannons, 234

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