Cute Frog Headband
Designed by Emma Du
Blog: http://emmacrochetdesign4u.blogspot.nl/
Etsy shop: https://www.etsy.com/shop/Emmacrochetdesign4U
Craftsy: http://www.craftsy.com/user/3619696/pattern-store
Instagram: @annaluciadu
Thank you for purchasing my pattern! I hope you will enjoy making it as much
as I did. I have invested a lot of time in creating this pattern, taking photos, writing
the instructions and making this PDF guide as clear as possible.
My patterns are for personal use and you can also sell your finished product as an
independent crafter. But please do not forget to credit me as the designer. Please
don’t share, reproduce, and sell this pattern. Feel free to make as many as you
would like for yourself or give as a gift. If you have any questions, just drop me
a line. Thanks a lot for your likes.
Finished size: fits both adult and children.
Materials:
1. Worsted weight yarn.
2. 2.5mm and 3.5mm crochet hook.
3. Tapestry needle, cotton fillings
4. Headband:
I bought these metal hairband
5mm in diameters from a local
handcraft store. It is flexible, not
easy to break and it does not hurt
the skin behind the ears either. It
also fits both children and adults.
You do not have to use exactly
the same one, you can pick up
the one you have at hand. But I
do not recommend to use ones
made out of plastic materials.
Once it is broken, your work will
be damaged too.
Abbreviations used in the pattern
(Please note that I use US terminology throughout.)
ch = chain chs = chains sc = single crochet hdc = half double crochet dc =
double crochet rep = repeat sk = skip sl st = slip stitch sp = space sps = spaces
st = stitch sts = stitches
Crocheting in continuous round
For the main body part of the bear, I use spiral crochet method instead of
traditional joining method. Crocheting in a continuous round results in a spiral
pattern instead of the discrete rounds you would get using the more traditional
method of joining. Spiral patterns lack any obvious seams or ladder stitches.
Spiral crochet method means you won’t join the beginning and end of each round.
Rather you will continue around, making the first st of each round in the first st
of the previous round.
I strongly recommend using a stitch marker when you work in a spiral as you
won’t have any other cues to remind you where the end of the round should fall.
How it works:
For example: When your working round is over, instead of sl st into the first st,
you will crochet directly into the first st (do not forget to put your st marker onto
the first st you just made) and continue until the end. When you reach the end
again ( the st before the st marker ), you do exactly the same thing , do not sl st
into the first st, but crochet directly into the first st and then again put your st
marker onto the first st you just made . Then continue working on.
Pattern Instructions:
Basic knowledge before you get started
1. How to do invisible decrease
Insert crochet hook only into the front loop of next st, insert into the front loop of
next st again, yarn over and draw the yarn through all the loops on the hook.
One invisible decrease is completed.
2. How to sew the ends.
Thread the yarn needle, insert the yarn needle into the front loop of next st from
outside in, and insert the yarn needle into the front loop of next st from inside out.
Repeat this a few times and pull the yarn tight, the end part is closed now.
3. How to make a picot: Ch3, insert hook through front loop of base and left
vertical bar of base st, yarn over, and pull the yarn through the loops on the hook。
Purple arrow indicates front loop of base.
Black arrow indicates left vertical bar of base st.
Part1: [3.5mm crochet hook] Frog eyes, 2 pieces.
Eye green: work in continuous way (making the last st as a sl st)
Round1: 6sc in magic ring. (6)
Round2: [inc] around. (12)
Round3: [inc, sc1] around. (18)
Round4: [inc, sc2] around. (24)
Round 5-6: Repeat round 4. (24)
Round7: [Dec, sc2] around, making the last st as a sl st . (18)
Eye white:
Round1: Use black yarn, 6sc in magic ring, join with a sl st to first sc, cut the yarn
off, weave in ends. (6)
Round2: Attach white yarn to any st, ch1 (not count as 1st sc), 2sc in the same st,
2sc in each st around, join with a sl st to 1st sc. (12)
Round3: Ch1 (not count as 1st sc), 2sc in the same st, sc in next st, *2sc in next st,
sc in next st, rep from *around. (18) Round4: Sc in each st around. (18)
Round 5-6: Repeat round 4. (18)
Round 7: [dec, sc] around. (12)
Assemble the eyes:
Put fiber filling into the white part and also weave in the ends of white part. Next,
you can put white part into green part.
Thread your needle with the long tail from the green part, run your needle back
and forth a few times to secure the white part. In order to prevent the white part
from falling out of the green part, I recommend you to secure it in 4 corners at
least.
Part2: [2.5mm crochet hook] Headband cover.
The reason why I choose to use 2.5mm crochet hook for this part is because I
prefer the cover to be as tight as possible. Then it won’t get lose or move too
much after the ears and antlers sewn onto the headband.
Please keep in mind, if you choose to use a wider headband, it means you have to
increase the beginning sts to make the tube bigger. Mine is 5mm in diameter and
I used 2.5 mm crochet hook. 6sc in the magic ring is perfect for me. If yours is
bigger than mine, please increase the beginning sts to 8sc in the magic ring or
maybe even 10sc in the magic ring.
Round1: 6sc in magic ring. (6)
Round2: Use continuous crochet technic to do sc in each of 6 sts. (6)
Round3: Sc around. (6)
Round4 — your desired length.
Part3: [3.5mm crochet hook] crown
Row1:Ch10, sc in the second ch from the hook, sc in each st across.
Row2: Ch1 (not count as 1st sc), sc in the same st, sc in each st across.
Row3: Ch1 (not count as 1st sc), dc in the same st, make a picot, 2dc in the same
st again, skip 1 st, sl st into next st, skip next st, (2dc, a picot, 2dc) in next st, skip
next st, sl st into next st, skip next st, (2dc, a picot) in last st, ch1, sl st back into
last st, break yarn, fasten off. Now you can weave in all tails.
Congratulations, you made it. Hope my tutorial is clear enough for you. If I made
any mistake in the pattern or a part that is not clear enough, feel free to contact
me. I'm glad to keep in touch with you after sale. So, if you need some crochet
assistance, crochet guide, or whatever about crochet; just let me know and I'll get
back to you as soon as possible. I would be really happy to see your finished work
too.
