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An A~Z ofall things gin,

from juniper berries to the G&T'
DAVID T. SMITH
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DICTIONARY

An A~Z ofallthings gin,

from juniper berries to the G&T

DAVID T. SMITH
ILLUSTRATED
BY STUART PATIENCE

MITCHELL BEAZLEY
 ForJPS & DWS
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Contents

Introd uct ion

———
 Introduction

Gin is such an exciting subject, with one foot

in the past and one in the future. It has soared
to giddy heights and wallowed in the gutter;
x>
perhaps the worst time of all was when, at the
end of the 20th century, it was simply ignored.
The opposite can be said for gin nowas it
is welland truly back in vogue. Its popularity
has risen and risen and something ofa“gin
renaissance” has spread around the world —
long may the passion continue.
With sucharich tapestry of history, not
to mention the range of exotic and unusual
ingredients and methodologies employed in
making gin, anyone trying to find out a little
bit more about their favourite spirit is often
left adrift in confusion and a bamboozling
array of obscure definitions and terms.
This book will help to clear matters up for
everyone — from those of you who are casual
gin drinkers, all the way to bartenders,
distillers and gin super-fans. Even the most
complex of topics are presented ina concise
and enjoyable way, meaning that anyone can
delve a little deeper into the world of gin, and
emerge witha clearer understanding of this
most fascinating of drinks.

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
 |
o|
My own time in gin started in the same way
as many others before me: I just really liked it.
Luckily for me, my discovery of just how much
I liked gin coincided with the beginning of the
spirit’s recent revival. This was in 2005 and
I plunged headlong into the pursuit of adeeper
awareness and understanding of the many
varieties of the drink. In the following year,
I wouldtry my 100th gin - anachievement
that I never expected to meet.
Fast forward to the present day and Ihave
lost track of the number of new gins I have tried
— likely around 1,500, including varieties from
nearly 50 different countries. Nowadays, much
of my time is spent sharing my passion for gin,
researching new and historical production
techniques and recipes, and helping distillers
to perfect new gins, whether they be a small
start-up oralarge multinational.
Writing a book on the subject of gin gives
me particular joy. Fora seemingly simple,
humble drink there is so much to learn about
its history, varieties, techniques, craft
distilleries and more that it is easy to lose
oneself in the subject; uncovering unknown
facts at every turn of the page. It is exciting
that some ofthe details in this book are
almost as new to meas they will be to you.
So [hope that you find this dictionary a
useful tool to further your understanding of

DOOOOOO0OO0000OO00OOOOOOOOOOOOHOOIOOOWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
 gin, whether you’re a casual fan taking your
first steps into understanding your favourite
drink, or are already well down the road of gin
expertise. Within these pages I hope to provide
some small insight into just what it is that
makes this wonderful spirit so special.
000000000000000000000O0O000OOOO00OOOOOOOHOHOOOOHK

—David T. Smith

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 KKK

SEEALSO ABV | PRODUCTION

Navy strength gin 7/67 OOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOODK

ABV stands for “alcohol by volume” and isa

measure of alcoholic strength. ABVisexpressed
as a percentage and refers to the percentage of
a liquid that is alcohol. Water has an alcoholic
strength of O% ABV, while pure alcohol is 100%
ABV. The minimum strength of gin within the
European Union (EU) is 37.5% ABV and inthe
USA it is 40.0% ABV. When alcohol is produced
inastill, itis typically around 86% ABV. It
POOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOH)
needs to be reduced inalcoholic strength before
bottling, a process knownas proofing. When
water is added to alcohol, an exothermic reaction
happens and heat is released. In the US, a proof
system is used to express the alcoholic strength
of spirits, although the use of the proof system
is voluntary and all bottles must also state the
% ABV. US proof is simply twice the ABV, so
40.0% ABV is equivalent to 80° US proof. It
should be noted that US proof is not the same
as British proof, the system that predates the
widescale use of ABV. For example, 100° British
proofis equivalent to 57.15% ABV (see page
167, Navy strength gin). British proofis the
equivalent of 1.75 times the ABV, so 40.0% ABV
is 70° British proof.
SEE ALSO Aged gin | GIN STYLE
Negroniy/68
Red vermouthp/9Z
Sipping giny207 Gin that has been matured in or with wood, using
Yellow ginp243 eithera barrel, wood chips or staves. There are
» twomain types ofaged gin: yellow gin, which
is lightly influenced by wood, and sipping gin,
amore modern and popular style. Traditionally,
PDD
o
><
maturation involves the storing of gin in barrels,
which can be made from new oak, or can have
been already used (for example ex-Bourbon
barrels, which adda spicy sweetness). They may
also have had some sort of additional finish, for
example usinga wine suchas sherry, port or
vermouth, which adds fruity complexity. The
advantage of using barrels over other methods
of maturation is that they already exist and they
also allow the gin to breathe and lightly oxidize
as it matures, an important part of maturation
for some experts.
The advantage of using staves or chips is that
there are more varieties available, including
pine, mahogany or pecan, some of which would
not be suitable for making into barrels, either
because it would be too expensive, suitable wood
is unavailable, or the wood is too porous to hold
gin. Most gindrinkers and connoisseurs takea
balanced approach to maturation, valuing each
form for its relative merits.

SEE ALSO Almond PRUNUS DULCIS VAR, DULCIS | BOTANICAL

Bitter almondy25
Botanicals p39
Native to the Mediterranean, Middle East,
North America and northern India, the almond
tree produces a greenand fleshy plum-like fruit.
This contains a shell which, in turn, contains the
teardrop-shaped nut commonly referred toas an
almond. Today, almond production is dominated
by growers in California, USA, with other
significant cultivation taking place in Spain and

4O90000000000H000000000000O0000000000000000000H0000000000
‘| A16 ® Italy. Almond trees are exceptionally thirsty;
it typically takes 4 litres (7 pints) of water to
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produce asingle nut. In distilling, almond is used
¢OY asa botanical toadd dryness and mouthfeel toa

g gin. Beefeater is a well-known example ofa gin

g that is flavoured withalmond.

SPE ALSO
edit
° Alpine gin | cmsre
Camparip45 Qo snccecesecrcessoapevesceovecensessccscsseteeessnsenecssansssesesnssasacesenesnrcacoossccsscaeetucnsenae

zante Astyle of gin popular in countries with close

Negronip/68 % proximity to the Alps mountain range, suchas
Red vermouthp/9/ : Germany, Austria and Switzerland. The style
3 is characterized by strong pine and juniper
> notes, woody herbaceous flavours anda touch
* of florality. Incomparison to other gins, citrus
flavours are generally lighter and more reserved.
Alpine gin was probably inspired by the history
of making herbal spirits and liqueurs in the
region. While the style is most closely associated
with the Alpine region, the same flavour profile
is also popular with many gin makers from
the Nordic countries such as Norway, Sweden,
Finland and Iceland. Gins in this style havea
strong flavour profile and work well with other
strong ingredients, suchas the Campariand red
vermouth in an intense Negroni cocktail.

SEEALSO Anethole | CHEMICAL COMPOUND

Licoricerootpl47, Sp (asanccuvessuaxsucnsctsccnsceperaresuetesseeusecenersnaencansucavesussnaeearcescubetapsenttecteneneeet
eee

eon at Also knownas anise camphor, anethole isan

Staranisep272 organic compound and terpenoid which is
fragrant and powerful in flavour and found in
many of the botanicals used to flavour gin. It
also has a sweetness more than ten times that
of sugar. Anethole is abundant in nature and is
found in anise and fennel, where it plays a major
part in their flavour and aromatic character. It
is also found in licorice, star anise, anise myrtle,
tarragon, basil and cicely. The compound is
 KKKOOD
highly soluble in alcohol, but only very slightly A
: soluble in water.These characteristies are
19

g
& responsible for the louching ofabsinthe, ouzo,
Q
pastis and, insome cases, gin.
g
x,

&
SEE ALSO Q Angelica root ANGELICA ARCHANGELICA | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals 39
$8
Dry vermouth pso
&
©
The third most prolific botanical to be used
in gin, angelica root is also knownas wild
:
Fixatives p84
Green Chartreuse p125 celery or Norwegian angelica. Like many
&
Redvermouthp/97
other botanicals, it is part of the Apiaceae
$
(carrot) family. It is native to Nordic countries
3 and western Russia. Angelica is cultivatedin
Germany, France and Belgium, although it now |
grows wild in other cool climates suchas the UK,
Scandinaviaand parts of the USA. Angelica root
is dried and then roughly chopped or chipped
before being used. In gin, angelica root adds
an earthy, woody, dry note and is sometimes
referred toas “the botanical that gives gin its
dryness”. It is also often cited as a fixative in
gin, helping to marry flavours together and
maintain the integrity of the spirit’s flavour
profile. Angelica is also used in other botanical
spirits and wines suchas vermouth, aquavitae,
Bénédictine, absinthe and Chartreuse.

Angostura bitters | cockrsnmexevrenr

Anaromatic non-potable bitters usedasa
flavouring in cocktails. “Non-potable” refers to
the fact that these are not designed to be drunk
on their own, but instead used in small amounts
to season drinks and accentuate the flavours of
the other ingredients. The recipe for Angostura
bitters was developed in the 19th century by
the Surgeon-General of the Venezuelan Army,
Johann Gottlieb Benjamin Siegert. Siegert was
based in the town of Angostura (now Ciudad
A Bolivar), hence the name ofthe bitters. He sold
20
his first bitters in 1824 and started exporting
them in 1830. Siegert died in 1870 and, five years
later, production moved to the Port of Spain
in Trinidad, where they are still made today.
Angostura bitters should not be confused with
bitters made from angostura bark, a medicinal
plant native to South America. Siegert’s bitters
are not made using angostura bark, although the
bark is named after the same town in Venezuela.

SEE ALSO Aviation | cockrar

DO000000000000000OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOL?_

Créme de Violette
777
Glassware p119
Icepl35
Acocktail thought to have been created by Hugo
Shaken/Shakingp207 R Ensslin, Head Bartender at Hotel Wallick
located at Broadway and 43rd Street in New
York City. The original recipe called for El Bart
Gin, which was a popular contemporary of
Gordon’s and Plymouth during the early 20th
century. It was made byWilson Distilling of
Bristol, Pennsylvania, although it was made
under licence from the Camberwell Distillery
of London, UK. Ginis mixed with lemon juice,
maraschino and Creme de Violette (which gives
it a distinctive blue colour). During the mid-20th
century, Creme de Violette became harder to
obtain and, asa result, some recipes now omit the
floralliqueur. Instead, the sweetness comes from
the maraschino; this not only changes the flavour
of the drink, but the colour too.

AVIATION RECIPE

50 ML / 2FL0z / GIN
20ML / %FLOZ / FRESH LEMON JUICE
10m.L / %FLoz / MARASCHINO
10M. / %FLoz / CREME DE VIOLETTE

Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice,
shake welland strain into a cocktail glass.
SEE ALSO Base spirit | »xovcrion
ABV pi3
Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39 Gin is produced by redistillinga neutral alcohol
Honey p31 with botanicals to add character to the drink.
This alcohol is knownas the base spirit; it forms
the blank canvas for the botanical flavours
and aromas to overlay. Many gin distilleries,
including all of the big gin brands, use a neutral
spirit purchased froma third party. This is
usually made from grain, so it is knownas
Neutral Grain Spirit (NGS) or Grain Neutral
Spirit (GNS), although spirits made from grape
and molasses are also available. In Europe, the
base spirit of gin has to have been distilled to
96% ABV. This removes a lot, but not all, of the
character of the base spirit’s raw materials. The
advantage of using NGS is that it involves less
capital expenditure, because a distillery does
not need to buy acolumn still (required to distil
efficiently to high ABVs) and the spirit is often
more neutral incharacter. Some producers
make their own base spirit. This is particularly
common inthe United States, where these
producers are often referred to as “grain to
glass” distillers. The benefit of “grain-to-glass’ 5
is that a distiller gains greater control, allowing
them to use a base spirit that may not be readily
available froma third party, suchas spirit made
from honey or apples.

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 SAODO

TYPICAL CHARACTERS OF

Bo
BASE SPIRIT MATERIALS
OOOOOOOOOOL
WHEAT: CLEAN AND NEUTRAL

CORN: CLEAN WITHA LIGHT SWEETNESS

BARLEY: CLEAN WITH A LIGHT, CREAMY SPICE

COOOL
MALTED BARLEY: ADDS SOME BREADY NOTES
Ox APPLE: FRESH AND CRISP WITH A LIGHT FRUITINESS

GRAPE: FLORALAND FRUITY

% MOLASSES: SMOOTH AND SILKY WITH A LIGHT SWEETNESS

:
HONEY: MELLOW, WITH A THICK TEXTURE AND FLORAL

SWEETNESS

g
SEE ALSO 2 Bathtub gin | as sci
Compounded gin p64
Prohibition »/83
The term originates from the early days of
American Prohibition in the 1920s. It was used
to describe the illicitly produced, compounded
gin being drunk at various speakeasies in the
United States. The exact origins ofthe term are
uncertain, but there are two main theories. One
is that the containers used to mix the ingredients
were too large to be topped up with water from
asink tap and so were filled from a bath tap;
the second theory is that baths, being large
containers themselves, were used to mix the
alcohol and various botanicals. The term tended
to be used ina pejorative way until 2011, when
Atom Supplies launched a product called Bathtub
Gin. This starts life as a relatively simple London
gin and is then flavoured with more botanicals
via infusion. The product has received great
critical acclaim since its launch, thus improving
the image of bathtub gin.

SEE ALSO Bergamot orange CITRUS BERGAMIA | BOTANICAL

Bitter orange p26

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39 A hybrid of sweet lime (Citrus /imetta) and bitter
Lime (Persian) p48 orange (Citrus x aurantium), which is used to
flavour some gins. The fruit is similar in size
toabitter orange, but has a green peel when
ripe. Bergamot orange is also used to make
 marmalade and to flavour confectionery such
as Turkish delight. The essential oilextracted
from the peel of the fruit is notably used in Earl >Hi
Grey tea, where it provides the tea’s distinctive
aromatic and citrus character. In 2016, the
Torino Distillery started producinga bergamot-
flavoured liqueur named Italicus Rosolio di
Bergamotto. In gin production, the peels of
bergamot are used for their aromatic and floral
citrus notes as well their slight bitterness. They
can be used in either dried or fresh form. Gins
made using bergamot orange peel asa botanical
include Fifty Eight Gin and Boxer Gin, both
made in London. Fifty Eight Gin is made from
the company’s own bergamot peel, which is
dried in house.

SEE ALSO Bitter almond

Almond p/5 PRUNUS DULCIS VAR. AMARA | BOTANICAL
Bombay Spirits Company p33
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39 Some varieties of almond tree produce nuts
that are smaller and more bitter than those of
the sweet almond (Prunus dulcis var. dulcis).
These are native to Asiaand the Middle East
and are knownas “bitter almonds”. The term
is also sometimes used to describe the kernels
of apricots (Prunus armeniaca), peaches
(Prunus persica) and plums (Prunus domestica).
The essential oil of bitter almonds is largely
benzaldehyde. They were once used more
frequently in food and drink (including gin),
but concerns over the levels of hydrogen cyanide
yielded from compounds within the seeds have
severely reduced their use and availability.
Bitter almonds are typically sourced from the
USA or Spain. Gins that use bitter almonds as
a botanical include Beefeater, Bombay Dry Gin
and Oxley.

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 SEE ALSO Bitter lemon | cockra:iwexevren
B Garnishes
Ice pl35
p93 OOOOOOOOO
VOLAlso knownas lemon tonic, this soft drink is
Quinine p85
Sloe ginp208 a variation on tonic water and is flavoured with
XOOODS

Soda water p208 lemon, lime, citric acid and quinine. Early
Tonic water p226
versions of this drink were simply a mixture
of Schweppes Soda Water and lime juice; the
earliest recorded reference to this is 1834.
Bitter lemon was officially launched by
Schweppes on 1 May 1957, along witha Bitter
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Orange drink. Previously, the British firm Lyons
had released a tonic water mixed with lemon
juice. Bitter lemon is commonly drunk onits own
asasoft drink, although the increased tartness
over regular tonic water also makes it a good
partner for sweeter spirits and liqueurs such
as sloe gin. The Long Pedlar is acombination of
sloe gin, bitter lemon and ice. Both the name and
drink were created by James Hawker and Co Ltd
in Plymouth for use with their Hawkers Pedlar
Sloe Gin. The drink was designed as a way to
enjoy sloe gin, typically consumed in the colder
months, during warm weather too.

THE LONG PEDLAR RECIPE

50ML / 2FL0z / SLOE GIN
150M. / 5FLOz / BITTER LEMON
LEMON AND LIME, TO GARNISH

Filla glass with ice and pour over the sloe gin and bitter lemon.
Garnish “Evans style” with lemon and lime (see page 94).

SEE ALSO Bitter Orange crreesxsveavrrem | soraniear

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
Cardamomp49 Also knownas the Seville or sour orange, this
Cassiabarkp50 fruit features as a flavouring in many gins. Like
Citrus p58 its cousin the sweet orange, this citrus fruit
Gordon’s 7120
Limonene p/48
isa hybrid of the pomelo and the mandarin. It
LinaloolpZ50 originates in Southeast Asia and was introduced
Sweet orange p216 to Spain in the 10th century. Varieties of the
 tree now growin many countries across the
world. The peel of the bitter orange hasastrong
aroma and flavour, anda distinctive, zesty
bitterness. It is often used in the production of
marmalade. Indrinks, bitter orange is used to
flavour a wide variety of spirits and liqueurs,
and isakey ingredient in orange bitters. The
chemical components of bitter orange peel
include limonene, myrcene and linalool. When
used asa gin botanical, itadds a zestiness similar
to sweet orange, but with deeper, darker notes
anda definite bitterness. It pairs well with other
sweeter botanicals suchas cassiaand cardamom.
Due to its intensity, bitter orange should be used
sparingly in gin. The peels can be used fresh, but
itis more common for them to be used inadried
state. Examples of gins that use bitter orange as
a botanical include Gordon’s, Hayman’s London
Dry Gin, City of London Dry Ginand Sipsmith.
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SEE ALSO Black peppercorn PIPER NIGRUM | BOTANICAL

Bombay Spirits Company p33

Botanicalrecipep36 , : : 5 P
Botanicals p39
bet The fruit ofa flowering vine, native to India,
Cubeb berries 773 belonging to the Piperaceae family and used as
Grains of paradisep/23 a botanical in gin production. Black peppercorns
suis ned are made when the unripe fruits are cooked
Pink peppercornp/78
and dried; green peppercorns are the unripe
dried fruits; and white peppercorns are the
dried ripe fruits. All peppercorns, especially
the black variety, are used for the seasoning
and flavouring of food throughout the world. In
the Western world, black pepper sits alongside
salt to form the traditional table cruet set. The
signature peppery flavour of the dried fruit
comes from the chemical piperine. Vietnam is
the number one producer of pepper, accounting
for more than one-third of the world’s supply.
Black peppercorns are most commonly used
in gin production and are most often utilized
 in their whole state. Like cubeb berries and
B grains of paradise, their addition toa gin’s
30 botanical recipe tends to lengthen the finish
and adda bright spiciness and peppery warmth
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><
AAA
to the flavour profile. Notable gins containing
black pepper include Bombay Sapphire East
and most of the gins inthe Herno range.

SEE ALSO Blended gin) «iss:

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
London giny/57
Aginmade by distilling each botanical
Rotovapp/94 individually in separate distillation runs and
Vacuum distillationy233 then blending the distillates together in the
desired proportions to produce the final gin.
DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
While it ismost common for each botanical to
- bedistilled separately, some distillers group
them together, for example distilling a variety
of citrus peels or flowers together. Advocates
of blended gin claim that the method helps to
maintain greater balance and consistency
than traditional methods of gin production.
In addition, distilling the botanicals separately
allows distillers greater control over the rate
of extraction of the flavours and aromas.
They can customize the maceration time,
temperature, alcoholic strength of the charge
and how aggressively the stillis run for each
botanical or set of botanicals. For example, for
fresh leaves or flowers, the still canbe runat
alower temperature to avoid overcooking the
botanicals, which can cause the extraction of
stewed flavours. There is a question as to whether
or nota blended gincan be considered London
ginaccording to EU regulations. The problem
arises because, at the time that the regulations
were finalized in 2007, no distiller was using
this method. Examples of blended gins include
Sacred, Sloane’s and Gin Mare.
SEE ALSO Bombay Spirits Company | sx.»
Bergamot orange p22
Black peppercornyp29
Botanical recipe p36 The history of the Bombay Gin brand dates back
Botanicals p39 to 1957, when New York lawyer, Allan Subin,
Cubeb berries p73 decided to launch a new gin brand in the United
Grains of paradise p123
Greenall’s 7/26
States. He wanted it to be the embodiment of
Lemongrass pl44 Englishness and so went to Greenall’s Distillery
London ginp/51 and asked them to make a vapour-infused,
Vapour distillation
234
grain-based gin based on their recipe from
1761. The gin was launched as Bombay Dry Gin
in 1960 and, by 1964, was selling 10,000 cases
ayear. This increased to 100,000 cases by 1970.
In 1980, the company was sold to International
Distillers and Vintners.
By the late 1970s, tastes had moved away
from gin and towards vodka. This continued
in the 1980s, with the launch of Absolut Vodka.
Bombay reacted to this by launching Bombay
Sapphire, named after the Star of Bombay, the
blue sapphire that also inspired their bottle’s
iconic colour. With two new exotic botanicals —
cubeb berries and grains of paradise —- Bombay
Sapphire was one of the first truly luxury gins.
The smooth flavour produced by the gin’s
vapour distillation also made it accessible to
new converts to gin.
In 1997, the brand was sold by Diageo to
Bacardi. In 2011, Bombay Spirits launched
Bombay Sapphire East for the American market.
This gin was made with additional botanicals
suchas lemongrass and black peppercorn. The
year 2014 saw the short-lived release ofanaged
gin, Bombay Amber, which was discontinued
in the same year. Also that year, the company
opened the Bombay Sapphire Distillery at
Laverstoke Millin Hampshire in the UK (left). A
year later, the distillery released Star of Bombay,
agin that added ambrette seeds and bergamot to
their traditional botanical recipe; this gin was

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 awarded the London Dry Gin Trophy at the 2016

iB > International Wine and Spirits Competition.

SEE ALSO © Booth’s | sxaxp

Aged ginp/5
Gin house p07
Agin brand and gin house founded around 1740
London ginp/57
Martinip/59 by John Booth, father of Sir Felix Booth. The
Sipping giny207 brand has a distinctive red lion on its labels.
Yellow ginp243
The company was listed as Philip Booth &
Company Distillers of Clerkenwellina 1778
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directory. It was owned by the family until
1896, when it became a limited company. It is
now owned by Diageo. In the 1920s and 1930s,
Booth’s expanded, buying out Boord’s Gin. They
made two London dry gins under the Booth’s
label: Booth’s Finest (or House of Lords) and
Booth’s Highand Dry.
Accordingto legend, Booth’s House of Lords
Gin came about when some finished gin, stored
ina barrel, had been forgotten about and, when
tasted, was found to havea mellow flavour
from the wood. In response, Booth’s started to
deliberately age one of their dry gins fora period
ofafew weeks. For most ofits life, Booth’s gin
was aged in ex-sherry barrels but, inthe 1980s,
this changed to Burgundy barrels. By the early
1990s, Booth’s Finest had been discontinued.
Advertising for the brand is readily available,
showing the golden colour and describing it as
“the essential ingredient ofa Perfect Martini”.
By the 1990s, Booth’s High and Dry Gin was
only for sale in the United States and was sold
in plastic bottles as a budget gin. In 2016,
Booth’s resurrected their House of Lords Gin
as a premium offering, adopting an ornate glass
bottle anda more intensely matured gin style,
with the spirit being aged in ex-sherry casks.

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SEE ALSO > Borovicka | assy
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Base spiritp27
Juniper (common) p/37
Ajuniper spirit native to Slovakia, the Czech 35
Republic and Hungary. It is made by steeping
fermented juniper berries ina base spirit before
, distilling it ina similarway to gin. Because
> ofthe fermentation ofthe berries, some of the
sugar from the juniper turns to alcohol; this is
® then distilled alongwith the base spirit, which
» is generally grain. This gives boroviékaa much
stronger, resinous juniper flavour than more
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>< typical gins. The origins of borovi¢ka go back to
the 16th century, when juniper berries were used
to help cover up the impurities in poor-quality
vodka. Today, some types of borovicka are sold
with ajuniper berry or two in the bottle, which
turns the liquid a pale golden colour. In addition,
some of the larger brands also sell borovicka
flavoured with lime, pink grapefruit, red juniper
or local mountain flowers. Borovicka is usually
drunk chilled and neat, oftenina celebratory
fashion similar to vodka.

SEE ALSO Botanical cuts | »xooveri0

ABV p13
Base spirity2Z
Botanicals p39
Duringa distillation run, when the distillate is
Limonene p/48 being created from a combination of base spirit
London cutp/5Z and botanicals, it is necessary to disregard the
Pot distillationp782
early and latter parts of the run, only keeping the
Rectificationp/87
middle part to produce the gin. This is known
as “taking cuts” or “taking botanical cuts”. A
similar process is also common when distilling
whisky, rum or brandy because it is necessary
to remove poisonous methanol from the final
product. Taking cuts in gin production is not
necessary to produce a safe product, but is used
instead to improve the quality and character of
the gin. The first cuts discarded are knownas
“heads” or “foreshots”, while those discarded

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 OOO
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from the end of the runare knownas the “tails”

or “feints”. The middle part of the run, whichis
pure and kept for proofing and bottling, is known
as the “hearts”.
The most volatile essential oils in gin
botanicals, suchas limonene, come off the
stillat the beginning of the distillation run.
In high concentrations, these can leave the final
gin hot, sourand slightly bitter. Heads cuts are
typically around 89-93% ABV. Toward the end
of the run, heavier, green and slightly funky
botanical notes come over. If too many of these
are included in the gin, it makes the spirit harsh
and addsa funky, slightly dirty character. They
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canalso cause drinkers to experience an effect
similar to heartburn after drinking. Ifa ginis
referred toas “Distiller’s cut”, more of the heads
and tails have been discarded to create aneven
purer and cleaner gin. Such gins are often also
bottled ata higher ABV.

SEE ALSO Botanical recipe | x00vcriox

Angelica root p79
Base spirit p27
Bitter orange p26
A botanical recipe defines the character of each
Black peppercornp29 individual gin, describing not only the selection
Botanicals p39 of botanicals used to make the gin, but the
Coriander seed p68
Ginger p114
quantities used. It may also contain finer details
Juniper (common) p/37 on how the botanicals are processed, for example
Lavender p143 whether they are milled or crushed before use
Macerationp/55
and whether they are used fresh or dry, powdered
Sweet orangey216
or whole. A botanical recipe will detail which
botanicals, ifany, need to be macerated or
steeped in alcohol @ither hot or cold), for what
length of time and the alcoholic strength of the
spirit they are macerated in. The following (see
page 39) isanexample ofa recipe for 10 iitres
(17% pints) of base spirit at 50% ABV.
 SOO

60c / 20z / JUNIPER BERRIES

OOOOOK60cG / 20z / CORIANDER SEED
YOO 10c / %o0z / ANGELICA ROOT
6c / Ysoz / DRIED GINGER ROOT
B
36 / Yooz / DRIED ORANGE PEEL
3G / Yooz / BLACK PEPPERCORNS
2.5G / Y20z / DRIED LAVENDER

SEE ALSO Botanicals | :xooveri0

Almond p75
Bergamot orange p22
Bitter orange p26 The raw materials, combined to forma botanical
Botanical recipep36 recipe, that give a gin its flavour and aroma.
Caraway p46 With very few exceptions, botanicals are
Cassia barkp50
Cinnamonp57
naturally occurring ingredients and include
Coriander seed p68 juniper (essential for any gin); roots suchas
Juniper (common) p/37 angelica and ginger; the peel of citrus fruits
Juniper (other species) 7738
including lemon, lime, orange and bergamot;
Lemon p/43
Lemongrass p/44 tree barks suchas cinnamon and cassia; seeds
Lime (Persian) p/48 including fennel, coriander or caraway; leaves
Rosemary p/92 suchas basil, rosemary and bay; anda host of
Sweet orange 216
other plant material including other fruits,
lemongrass and almonds. Botanicals typically
come in either dried or fresh forms. Fresh
botanicals will usually have a brighter flavour,
but are more susceptible to damage, especially
when they are heated. Dried botanicals tend to
be more consistent and stand up better to the
heat of distillation, but the variety commercially
available may be more limited.

SEE ALSO Bramble | COCKTAIL

Garnishes p93 QOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Glasswarepl19
Agincocktailinvented by Dick Bradsellin
Ice pl35
1984 at Fred’s Club in Soho, London, made
from gin, lemonjuice, sugar syrup and Creme
de Mire. The drink can trace its ancestry back
to 1862 in the form of the Gin Fix from Jerry
Thomas’ cocktail guide, How to Mix Drinks,
which contained a mixture of gin, sugar,
lemon and water. In the 1960s, acocktail called
the Canadian Blackberry Fix was published
 in various books. This recipe combined

Bo blackberries with Canadian whiskey instead

of gin. The Bramble has a great balance between
sweet and sour flavours; the sourness comes
from the lemon juice and the sweetness from the
sugar syrup and Créme de Mire. Creme de Mire
isa particularly sweet liqueur flavoured with
blackberries, which grow ona rough, prickly
shrub, sometimes knownas “brambles”, hence
the cocktail’s name. Sometimes, Creme de Mure
is replaced by Chambord, a black raspberry-
flavoured liqueur. The resulting cocktail is not
atrue Bramble, however, as the flavour of the
liqueur is significantly different and makes
the drink much sweeter. The Bramble can be
garnished with fresh berries and lemon.

THE BRAMBLE RECIPE

25ML / %AFLOZ / GIN

25ML / %AFLOz / FRESH LEMON JUICE
25ML / %FLOZz / SIMPLE SUGAR SYRUP
20ML / %FLOZz / CREME DEMURE

Filla glass with crushed ice, add the first three ingredients
and stir. Drizzle over the Creme de Mire.

SEE ALSO British juniper jex:ecevs commoenrs | novanieat

DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
Juniper (common) 7/37
Terroirp22/
British juniper refers to any plant of.Juniperus
communis that is harvested from Great Britain
and used in gin production. Juniperus communis
is one of only three conifers native to the UK.
Juniper bushes were once plentiful, but even
by 1802, adistiller’s manual noted that they
were often sourced from Germany. At that
time, Germany was still part ofthe Holy Roman
Empire, whose territories included northern
Italy, an area that is still known for growing
juniper today. Imported juniper was often
chosen because British bushes were not large
 enough. Despite this, it was stillan accepted
- practice to use British juniper, although the
* author of the manual cautions that they should
be fully ripe and need to be dried thoroughly
before packing for storage in sealed barrels.
The number of juniper bushes in the United
Kingdom has further declined due to the
clearance ofland for agriculture. This was
especially true during the Second World War,
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when the domestic food supply was severely

threatened. Today, juniper bushes are further
threatened by the fungus Phytophthora
austrocedrae. However, anumber of gins still
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use British juniper. Crossbill Gin of Scotland
contains just two botanicals: British juniper
and rosehips harvested from the Cairngorm
Mountains. Hepple Gin uses locally sourced
$
juniper berries in their green, unripe state,
along with imported ripe berries. And
Beckett’s Gin uses juniper collected from
Box Hillin Surrey.

SEE ALSO Burrough’s | sx.x0

Gin house p107
London ginp/5Z
Navy strength ginp167
An historic gin house founded by chemist James
Old Tom ginp/77 Burrough (1835-1876). Burrough bought his first
distillery in Chelsea, London, in 1862 and started
to produce gin the following year. By 1876, the
distillery was producing multiple brands of gin,
including James Burrough London Dry and some
Old Tom gins. Burrough decided to name his
flagship gin Beefeater, rather than giving it the
family name. This distinguished it from those of
the other gin houses of the time. After Burrough
died in 1876, the family purchased premises
nearby in Lambeth, which would become Cale
Distillery. They stayed in this location until
1958, during which time they started exporting
to the United States. The distillery moved once
 more toasite in Kennington, where it still stands
and produces Beefeater Gin to this day. In 2005,
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Beefeater was acquired by Pernod-Ricard and =
in 2014 they opened a visitor centre.
In 1951, Neville Hayman, who married
James Burrough’s granddaughter Marjorie,
had started working at Burrough’s; their son,
Christopher Hayman, joined the family business
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in 1969. After the Burrough family sold the
company to Whitbread in 1987, the Haymans
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bought back the James Burrough Fine Alcohols
Division and renamed it Hayman Distillers;
they now produce a range of gins including
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: Hayman’s London Dry Ginand Hayman’s
8
:% Royal Dock Navy Strength Gin.

:
SEE ALSO Bush gin | GIN STYLE

Botanicals p39
Flavour profiles 787
Originating in Australia, this style of gin is also
Myrtle pl64 g
Terroirp22/ knownas Aussie gin. Bush gin first emerged as
a style inthe second decade of the 21st century,
inspired by the unique wildlife of Australia,
where 80 percent of the local floral and fauna is
endemic: not only native to the country, but not
found anywhere else in the world. Influenced by
the Bush Food Movement’s use of native plants
for cooking, Australian distillers wanted to
embrace the use of local botanicals. Bush gin
hasabold and flavoursome character, often
accompanied by leafy-citrus or spicy-menthol
flavour profiles. Some gins utilize local wine for
their base spirit and almost all of the gins are
flavoured via distillation, then infusion. Popular
botanicals include lemon myrtle, cinnamon
myrtle, bush tomato, finger limes, Tasmanian
pepperberry and wattle seeds.
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$ Calamus scons cacaues | soranrcat

Botanical recipe p36 X
Botanicals p39
Native to India, this once-popular gin
botanical has fallen out of favour, largely due
: to its being removed from the United States’
“generally recognizedas safe list” in 1968.
This was following an experiment where rats
were exposed to large doses of beta-asarone
for a prolonged period of time, resulting in
carcinogenic effects. Although it was not clear
whether the observed effects were relevant to
humans, calamus products were banned as they
contain beta-asarone. Calamus remains legalin
most other countries and has various culinary
uses. The rhizome, an underground root
structure, is used asa botanicalin vermouth,
liqueurs, absinthes and some gins. The candied
version of the rhizome is known in Europe as
“German ginger”. Calamus has also been used
in traditional Chinese and Indian medicine for
many years, where it is said to aid digestion and
treat anxiety. Gins made using calamus include
Colonsay Gin, Silverback Gin and Stovell’s Gin.

SEE ALSO Campari | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Negronipl68
Redvermouthp/9Z
Originally from Italy, Campari isa bright
crimson-red, bittersweet liqueur. It was created
in 1860 by Gaspare Campariin Novara, Italy,
and is made witha host of botanicals, including
 ’ chinottoandcascarilla, although the rest of the
ingredients remaina secret. Until 2006, the
red colour came from carmine, which is derived
C from the powdered bodies of scale or cochineal
insects. Campari’s main connection to ginisas
’ one of the three key ingredients ina Negroni
cocktail. It is also used in other drinks, suchas
the Americano and the Boulevardier (a mix of
Bourbon, Campariand red vermouth).
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SEE ALSO OOOO

Caraway cevncsrvs | soranicar
Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Hendrick’s p727
Amember of the Apiaceae (carrot) family,
Limonene p148 caraway produces seeds that are commonly
used asaspice and are sometimes referred to as
meridian fennel. Although we call them seeds,
the spice is actually the split halves of the dried
fruit of the plant. It is native to southern Europe
and has had medicinaland culinary uses for
more thantwo thousand years. Caraway hasa
lightly bitter, nutty taste witha slight sharpness
anda touch of aromatic sweetness. The main
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component of the essential oil contained within
the seeds is carvone, although they also contain
limonene. In the production of drinks, caraway
is commonly used asa botanical to flavoura
range of spirits, including kimmel and aquavit.
In gin, caraway is used sparingly to adda leafy
spice complexity and a touch of sweetness, as well
as adding body to the spirit’s finish. Gins made
using caraway asa botanical include St George
Botanivore and St George Dry Rye Gins from
California, Hendrick’s Gin and Aviation.

SEE ALSO Cardamom ELETTARIA CARDAMOMUM,

Botanical recipe p36

AMOMUM SUBULATUM | BOTANICAL
Botanicals p39
Ginger p/14
Navy strength gin 167 There are two main types of cardamom: green
Plymouth Ginp/78 (Elettaria cardamomum) and black (Amomum
 subulatum). Also knownas true cardamom,
green cardamom is a member of the ginger
family. Itis native to southern Indiaand Sri
Lanka, although it is now grown in other tropical
regions. The seed pods of the plant are light
green and paper-like in texture. They contain
small, black seeds. The pod itself has little aroma
or flavour but the seeds are intensely flavoured
and perfumed with floral hints of ginger and
spice. During distillation, it is possible to
extract the essential oils from within the pods by
QOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOODHK
placing them in the stillintact; however, some
2
distillers lightly crack open the pods first. Green
cardamom adds abold spiciness, alongwitha
little sweetness and notes of cassia and ginger.
It can easily overpower other botanicals, so is
used sparingly. Green cardamom is the third
most expensive spice in the world, after saffron
and vanilla. Examples of gins made using green
cardamom are Sacred Cardamom Gin, Plymouth
Gin and Bathtub Navy Strength Gin.The black
cardamom plant isa larger relative of green
cardamom. The pods are typically dried over
open flames, giving them a touch of smokiness.
When distilled as a botanical in gin, itadds an
aromatic, oily-spiced flavour and deep, menthol
pepper notes. Gins made using black cardamom
include Dodd’s Ginand Bombay Amber.

SEE ALSO Carterhead still | »x.nver10

ABV p73
Bombay Spirits Company p33
Atype of still designed and first manufactured
Botanicals p39
Chargep54 inthe late 19th century by the Carter brothers,
Hendrick’s 7127 who had previously worked for Aeneas Coffey,
Potdistillationp782
the pioneer of continuous distillation. The still
Rectificationpl87
consists ofa round pot, witha typical capacity
of around 3,000 litres (660 gallons), which
contains the charge of spirit. On top of this is
the “Carter head”, a rectifying column. A pipe
 from the top of the column runs up to the base
of achamber containing a botanical basket,
which allows alcohol vapour to pass among the
C botanicals inside and extract their essential oils.
A pipe from the top of this chamber leads to the
condenser. Ina traditional Carterhead, it is not
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easy to make gin by adding botanicals directly to
the pot, because draining and cleaning would be
difficult, so all ofthe gin’s botanicals are placed
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in the botanical basket. The still was originally
designed to rectify spirit produced on the
Coffey still, to make it cleaner and more suitable
for vodka or gin production. The rectifying
column purifies the spirit and increases its ABV.
This makes the extraction of the botanicals’
aromas and flavours easier and more efficient.
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Carterhead stills are used by Rekya Distillery,

Hendrick’s and Bombay Sapphire, although
following an adjustment in 2014, the original
Carterhead stills of Bombay Sapphire at
Laverstoke Millare now knownas Dakinstills.

SEE ALSO Cassia bark civsnomewcassra | norantcar

Bombay Spirits Company
p33
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
The dried bark ofan evergreen tree native to
Cinnamon p57 southern China. It isa spice closely related
Hendrick’s p127 to cinnamon and is often mistaken for true
Martin Miller’s 7156
cinnamon (Cinnamomum verum).Itis also
knownas Chinese cassia. Cassia bark has an oily
sweetness and pungent, woody, spiced flavour,
as wellas alittle warmth. The dried bark is
typically less tightly wound than the quills of
true cinnamon and is most commonly available
in chipped or powdered forms. It is frequently
used in confectionary suchas boiled sweets
and Big Red chewing gum, as wellas pastries and
desserts. In alcoholic beverages, it is often used
as an additional flavour to modifyabase spirit.
This is illustrated by the great range of whiskies
 that are flavoured with cassia, which is prized
for both its sweetness and its heat. Like true
cinnamon, the characteristic flavour and aroma
of cassia barkisa result ofits main chemical = b
component cinnamaldehyde. In gin, cassia
bark adds alittle botanical sweetness, as well
as some spice and complexity. It is typically used
in chipped form, although it is possible to use it in
larger bark pieces or as a powder. Given its
similarity to true cinnamon, it is rare but not
unknown for both to be used in the same gin
recipe. Many gins are made using cassia bark
as a botanical, including Bombay Dry, Bombay
Sapphire, Bombay Sapphire East, Broker’s Gin,
Martin Miller’s Gin and Shortcross Gin.
e
SEEALSO POOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWOOOWOOOOOOOOHOMOWOOOOOOOOOOOHE
2 Chamomile CHAMAEMELUM NOBILE | BOTANICAL

Botanicalrecipe 3G BD swvesnnvcereesoneenasennseanesencrnvrnnnssacsnsssnssnssenssensenscsecssesvsnassossscsossssnsesecseasooss
Botanicals p39 é 5 5 : Z
:
Pinenep/77
ss A daisy-like flower used as a botanicalin gin
Tanqueray p279 production, commonly knownas Roman or
English chamomile. The name comes from the
Greek for “earth apple”, which was inspired by
the flower’s apple-like scent. Chamomile flowers
are typically used dried, either as whole flowers
or lightly ground. The scent is used in various
perfumes, toiletries and cosmetics. Chamomile
is also used to make both hot and iced teas and
has uses in traditional medicine, in particular
as an aid to sleep and relaxation. The flavours of
chamomile are soluble in both water and alcohol.
The chemical components of the essential oil in
chamomile include alpha-pinene, beta-pinene,
camphene, myrcene and sabinene. Chamomile
hasasoft, slightly sweet, hay-like aroma witha
touch of red apple and light vanilla. In gin, it adds
subtle floral notes and helps to provide a balance
to citrus flavours. Gins made using chamomile
include Bloom and Tanqueray No. Ten.

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 SEE ALSO Charge | PRODUCTION

ABV pi3
Botanicals p39
* The charge refers to the alcohol that is placed
C Carterhead stillp50
Potdistillationy782 into the main body, or pot, boiler or kettle, ofa
still. For pot distillation this willinclude the
botanicals, but for vapour distillation it will
not (instead, they will be placed in the vapour
or botanical basket). Alternatively, distillers
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may use acombination of the two methods,
with botanicals forming part of the charge
and also being placed in the botanical basket.
The alcoholic strength of the charge has an
important impact onthe resulting flavour of the
gin. For pot distillation, this is usually 35-60%
ABV. If delicate botanicals are used and their
essential oils are soluble in water, a charge with
alower ABV is recommendedas the oils can still
be extracted without damaging the structure
of the botanicals. During vapour distillation,
especially ina hybrid pot-column or Carterhead
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still,a higher ABV can be used; some distilleries
using this method use a charge of 86% ABV.

SEE ALSO Cilantro conserva sarivem | sorantcat

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals 39
Coriander seed p68
Coriander, often knownas cilantro, is the
green stalks and leaves from the coriander
plant and is commonly used asa botanicalin gin
production. Cilantro is often used in cuisine,
especially in India where it is cooked in curries
and other dishes, and inthe Caribbean and Latin
America. It is also sometimes used asa garnish
ina similar way to parsley. Cilantro is avery
polarizing flavour, with some people thoroughly
enjoying it and others being overly sensitive to it 2
often finding it to taste of soap. An individual’s
response to cilantro is likely, in part, to be due
to the sensitivity of their taste buds; it tends to
Y ly, Y
 be particularly unpopular with supertasters.
In gin, cilantro canaddacitrus leafiness.
However it is important that it is used sparingly,
as too much can give the spirit an unpleasant, Cc
soapy bitterness. Gins that feature cilantro
include St George Spirits’ Botanivore Gin.

SEE ALSO CinnamMOoN ewessvowcwrexcm | noranrear

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals
p39
Cassia bark p50 Also knownas true or Ceylon cinnamon, this
Limonene p/48 spice is not to be confused with the cheaper cassia
Linaloolpz50 bark (Cinnamomum cassia), although cassia
Navy strength ginpl67
is often soldas “cinnamon”, especially in the
United States. This confusion is especially likely
when buying cinnamon in powdered formas it is
more difficult to tell the two apart. Bothare used
as botanicals to flavour gin. True cinnamon is
sourced from the inner bark ofasmallevergreen
tree and, inits whole form, is soldas dried quills
or cinnamonsticks that are tightly curled in
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHO
on themselves. True cinnamon is native to Sri
Lanka, which was formerly knownas Ceylon,
hence the common name. True cinnamon is
also grownin the islands of the Seychelles and
Madagascar. The spice’s flavour is more subtle
and elegant than that of cassia, and is somewhat
drier and woodier. It is also significantly more
expensive. The essential oil of cinnamon can be
prepared by pummelling the bark, macerating
it in seawater and then distilling the resulting
mixture. True cinnamon contains the chemical
compounds cinnamaldehyde, linalool, eugenol
and limonene. In addition toits useasagin
botanical, cinnamon is also used to flavour other
alcoholic drinks suchas vodka and whisky, to
produce flavoured whisky or whisky liqueur.
Gins that use cinnamonasa botanical include
Bathtub Gin, Blackwater No. 5 Ginand Perry’s
Tot Navy Strength Gin.

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 SEE ALSO Citrus | eravourrnorne
Bitter orange p26
Classic/Juniper-forward
p58
A popular flavour profile for gins, where the
C Flavour profiles 787
Floralp87 flavours ofcitrus peels — for example lemon, lime,
Gin Tonicap//3 avariety of grapefruit and bitter or sweet orange
Grapefruitp/24
~playa prominent role. Gins often focus on these
Herbalp/28
Lemonp/43 notes because ofthe lively and refreshing quality
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Lemongrass pl44 O© of citrus flavours. Because of these qualities,

Lime (Persian) 148
DOO) citrus gins often work wellin long drinks such
Spicyp212
Sweet orange p216
as the Gin Tonica or Tom Collins. Le Tribute Gin
Tanqueray
279 from Spainis made using six varieties of citrus
peel: lemon, lime, orange, grapefruit, kumquat
and tangerine, allin addition to lemongrass,
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which adds further citrus notes. Other examples
of citrus gins include Bluecoat, Hunters and
Tanqueray No. Ten.
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SEE ALSO Classic/Juniper-forward

Citrus p58 | FLAVOUR PROFILE
Flavour profiles 787
Floralpé7
Herbalp128 Ofcourse, all gins need to containjuniper and
Juniper (common) p/37 for London dry ginand distilled gins this should
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Juniper (other species) 7138
London ginp/51
be the major flavour. However, some gins focus
Spicy 7212 more heavily on the flavour ofjuniperand
Tanqueray 2/19 corresponding notes of pine and cedar. These
gins are typically good all-rounders for mixing.
Examples of such gins include Tanqueray,
Hayman’s London Dry, Palmers 44 and Crossbill.

SEE ALSO Classic gin | os srvie

Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
Classic/Juniper-forward p58 Astyle of gin that is traditional and juniper-
Contemporary ginp65 forward in flavour, reflecting the style of the
Gordon’s 9120 dry gins made by British distillers in the mid-
London ginp/51
Tanquerayp2/9
tolate 19th century and 20th century. Gins
Transatlantic ginp228 such as Tanqueray, Gordon’s and Beefeater
are typical examples. The style was identified
during the early 21st century, as the rise of
newer, contemporary styles of gin led toaneed
 g
g
8
Q3% to differentiate the old style from the new ones.
Q
Q Another key component ofclassic gin is that it is
ms
& made witha neutral base spirit, which adds little
g
& character to the ginand gives a blank canvas to C :
8Q
61

the botanicals.

SEE ALSO : Clover

8 Club | cocks
Dry vermouthpéso g
Glassware pi19
Icepl35 : This pre-Prohibition cocktail was created in
Prohibitionp783 Philadelphia, USA, at the Bellevue-Stratford
Red vermouthp/97 Hotel, a building that still exists and now houses
Shaken/Shakingp207
Hyatt at The Bellevue. During the late 19th
century, the hotel hosted the Clover Club, a
gentleman’s club of writers and lawyers whose
membership included poet William Butler
Yates. The cocktail likely dates from the early
20th century. The first recorded recipe was in
Tom Bullock’s The /deal Bartender from 1917.
However, by the repeal of Prohibition in 1933,
the drink had lost a lot ofits popularity and,
because of its pale pink colour, was considered
a particularly feminine drink. The Clover
Club’s fortunes were revived at the beginning
of the 21st century, thanks to cocktail historian
David Wondrich who wrote about it in 2007,
and bartender Julie Reiner who openeda bar
in Brooklyn named after the drink in 2009 and
put the cocktail front-and-centre on her menu.

CLOVER CLUB RECIPE

50ML / 2FLOz / LONDON DRY GIN
10Mi / %FLoz / DRY VERMOUTH
5ML / YsFLOz / RED VERMOUTH
5ML /YsFLOZ / RASPBERRY SYRUP
10m. / %FLOZ / FRESH LEMON JUICE
1 EGG WHITE
1 RASPBERRY, TO GARNISH

Place all the ingredients in a cocktailshaker and shake well.

Top up the shaker with ice cubes and shake again. Strain
intoacocktailglass and garnish with a raspberry.
 SEE ALSO Cloves SYZYGIUM AROMATICUM | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals 39
© Cloves are the immature, sun-dried flower
C Cinnamonp57
Nutmegyp/68 © buds of the clove tree, which can be used to
62
Spicy p212 © flavour gins. The tree is evergreen and grows
®% toup to 9m (30ft) in height, with narrow,
» white, bell-shaped flowers that turn pink
- when mature. Cloves are native to the spice
- islands of Indonesia, but are now also grown
in Brazil, India, Jamaica, Malaysiaand
> Tanzania. Cloves havea sweet, woody and
spicy flavour due to their high concentration
of eugenol. Eugenol has various medicinal
and anaesthetic properties, and oil of clove
has long been used to treat toothache. In
cooking, cloves are used ina variety of sweet
and savoury dishes and are often paired with
other spices such as cinnamon and nutmeg.
They also work well in concert with other
spices in gin distilling, where they can be
used to create a complex spice profile. As
with cooking, cloves should be used sparingly,
as they can easily overpower the botanical
balance of the spirit. Cloves are also used in
anassortment of liqueurs andasa key
ingredient in spiced rum. Pink cloves are
used to make the pink clove alcoholic cordial
that is often mixed with rum or brandy. Gins
that use cloves as a botanical include Bathtub
Gin and Pickering’s Gin.

SEE ALSO Common Qin | s:sro2v

ABV p23
Juniper (Common) p/37
Royal gin (Geneva) p95 Aterm used to describe the adulterated gin
served en-masse in ale houses during the late
18th and early 19th centuries. The following
recipe for common gin is described in an 1805
handbook of distillation:
 10 GALLONS MALT SPIRITS

20Z OIL OF TURPENTINE

1LB JUNIPER BERRIES

C 40Z SWEET
40Z CARAWAY
FENNEL
SEED
64
3 HANDFULS BAY SALT

This spirit would have been proofed to the

equivalent of 38% ABV. While the gin is made
with juniper berries, the majority of the resinous,
piney flavours characteristic of the berries would
have come from the oil of turpentine, which is
made from the distillation of pine resin.

SEE ALSO Compounded Qin | »xoovcr10»

Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
Ginebra San Miguel p//4
Often simply referred toas “gin”, compounded
or cold compounded is a type of gin that is
produced without any distillation of botanicals;
instead, flavours are added directly to alcoholic
spirit. The simplest and most inexpensive way
to cold compounda gin is to purchase pre-made
essential oils and mix these into neutral base
spirit. The other way to make a cold compounded
gin is to infuse a neutral base spirit with fresh or
dried botanicals by immersing them in the spirit.
The alcohol extracts the flavour and aroma
compounds, as wellas some colour from the
botanicals. The advantages of compounding gin
are the cheap initial capital outlay and low cost
of production. The downside is that the resulting
gin willbe less consistent and less stable; it will
change over time as the sediment from the
botanicals drops out of solution. The flavour
willalso be different toa distilled product, as
only certain botanical flavours and aromas
are collected as part ofa distillate. Examples
of compounded gin include Cork Dry Ginand
Ginebra San Miguel.

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OOO
DOOOOOOOOODOOOOOOGHOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
OOOOOOOOOOOOOH
SEE ALSO Contemporary gin | ox svi
Aviation p36
Botanical recipep36é
Botanicals p39 A modern style of gin that has aless intense
Classic gin p67 focus on the traditional, piney, juniper-forward
Flavour profiles 787 flavour profile and a greater emphasis on the
Hendrick’s 7727
Juniper-forwardp/39
flavours of other botanicals suchas citrus or
Martin Miller’s p/56 spices. While these alternative botanicals may
Transatlantic giny228 LOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK
be more prominent than in many classic gins,
OOK it remains vital that juniper is still discernable
for the spirit to be considered gin. The seeds
for contemporary gin were sewn in the last few
years of the 20th century. Distillers and gin
brands were innovating and experimenting
with flavour profiles, leading to the releases
of gins suchas Hendrick’s, Martin Miller’s,
Tanqueray Malacca and Beefeater Wet. One of
the first gins to identify itselfas contemporary
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
was Aviation, created by Ryan Magarian. Around
2009, Magarian coined the term “New Western
Gin” to represent gins — suchas Aviation — that
had less ofa focus on juniper. Another early
contemporary gin, Bluecoat Gin, was released
in 2006, described as “New American Dry”.
Contemporary ginisanumbrellaterm that
covers both of these descriptions, along with
others suchas “New Wave Gin”, “21st Century
Gin” and “Modern Gin”.
Contemporary gins have gained popularity
with the renaissance incraft distilling, which
has seen many new, small distilleries open
across the world. These small enterprises
cannot compete with more established brands
on price; one way to differentiate themselves,
among other factors, is with their flavour profile.
Contemporary gins have also added to the recent
success of gin by introducing newdrinkers to
the spirit, acting as a gateway and enabling them
to explore and enjoy the category anda broader
range of flavour profiles.
 7
><

SEE ALSO Contract distillers | xoovcrios

Botanicals p39
Distillerp76
Distillery
p79 Also knownas third-party distillers, these are
distillers that make gin for brands other than
cl
their own. This allows companies that do not
wish to, or cannot afford to, start a distillery
to stillrelease a gin under their own label. The
services offered by contract distillers vary, but
include: allowinga competent distiller to rent
time on their equipment; selling the company
an “offthe shelf” gin recipe; working witha
company to develop a bespoke gin that is
unique to them and has been tailored to their
needs, for example, includinga particular
signature botanical that is not often found in
gin. Distillers offering services to third parties
include Thames Distillers Ltd (Timbermill
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOPOOPOOOOOOOHO?
Distillery), Alcohols Ltd (Langley Distillery),
» Artisan Spirits, English Spirit Distillery and
G&J Distillers (Greenall’s Distillery).

SEEALSO Cordial gin |cstv

ABV p23
Botanical recipe p36
Fruit ginp92
A type of gin which is sweetened, but is distinct
Old Tom giny/71 from Old Tom gin. Old Tom gin was sweetened
due to the impurities of the base spirit used to
make it, but with the invention of continuous
distillation in 1822, the quality and purity of base
spirits increased significantly and sweetening
was no longer necessary. Nevertheless, some
consumers still wanted to indulge their sweet
tooth. With gin now being able to be sold by the
bottle and competition between distilleries
increasing, some gin houses obliged. Cordial gins
produced during the mid- to late 19th century
were often designed witha botanical recipe that
would work in harmony with the additional sugar
content. Cordial gin was seen as the premier gin
of the time and was typically available in two
 ° strengths: one for drinking neat and one witha
» higher alcoholic strength for mixing. As tastes
’ moved towards dryer flavours and unsweetened
C gins, cordial gins disappeared. In 2016, Hayman
- Distillers released anewcordial ginat 42%
ABV, which was designed to sit between the
two historical strengths of cordial gin. They
OOOwere followed by Sipsmith, who releaseda

: gin is defined asa

similar product in 2017. Inthe USA, cordial
liqueur witha “predominant
characteristic flavour of gin”. Bottled at 30%
s ABV or higher, it must not contain more than
2.5% wine.

SEE ALSO Coriander seed coz:svonvwsarivvm| soranrcar

Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Cilantro p54
The second most important and prolific
Fixatives p84 botanical used in gin production. Indeed, many
18"*-century recipes call for equal amounts
of juniper and coriander. Coriander seeds are
typically smalland round, and range in colour
from brown to yellow. They havea citrus, spicy
and sometimes floral quality which adds both
body and intensity to gin. While coriander seed
is native to southern Europe and North Africa,
the region from which the botanical is sourced
makes a big difference to its contribution to
the gin’s flavour. For example, coriander from
Morocco hasa subtle, floral spiced flavour;
seeds from Russia havea high oil content anda
citrus flavour; Indian coriander is lighter, with
citrus and spice; and Canadian coriander hasa
more floral character. In addition to flavouring
gin, coriander seed is also thought to have some
fixative properties, helping to marry together
the different botanical flavours and aromas
in the spirit. Coriander seed is the key flavouring
ingredient in the liqueur Parfait Amour and is
also used in aquavit and Bénédictine.
Vy ZZ y
i iJ
4
bs a:
ye
SEE ALSO & Cream gin | HISTORY

Botanicals p39
Gin palace p///
* Atype of ginwhich originates from Victorian
Old Tom ginp77Z
Rotovappl94 2 England. The main source of knowledge on this
Young
Tom p244 > drinkis the 1836 collection of short pieces by
Charles Dickens, Sketches by Boz, in which the
author describes the sight and sounds ofa gin
* shop or gin palace. Dickens describes various
barrels from which gin can be served, each
® containinga different variety. The barrels
are given names including: “The Cream of the
Valley”, “The Out and Out”, “The No Mistake”,
“The Good for Mixing” and “The Real Knock-
me-down”, in addition to “Old Tom”, “Young
Tom” and “Samson”. The cream in “cream gin”
does not refer toa dairy product, but rather
that itis “the cream of the crop”, the very best.
As such, it uses the termina similar way to the
sherry Harvey’s Bristol Cream. Nicholson’s
made a “celebrated Cream Gin” in the 1830s.
Some modern-day distillers have taken amore
literal approach by producinga gin that features
creamas an ingredient. This started life as anin-
house product at the Victorian-themed cocktail
bar, Worship Street Whistling Shop in London,
but was subsequently commercially produced by
Atom Supplies. It uses cream asa botanical and
is distilled ina rotovap. Each bottle contains the
equivalent of 100ml (3%floz) ofcream.

SEE ALSO Créme de Genieéve | ox «11:

ABV p13
Botanicals p39
Cordial giny67 Acask-aged, juniper-flavoured liqueur. The
Juniper (common) p737 term “créme” does not refer to any dairy
products, but is rather an indication of the
sweetness of the product ina similar way to
Creme de Menthe (mint liqueur) or Creme
de Mare (blackberry liqueur). To be legally
considered a “créme” in the European Union
 (EU), a liqueur must containat least 250g (90z)
of sugar per 1 litre (1% pints) and bebottled
at at least 15% ABV. Créme de Geniéve was

“Hl
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* popular during the late 19th century. It was
~ made bydistillinga single distillate of juniper
> with no other botanicals, before maturation
in wooden casks fora period of 4—6 weeks; this
» would help to mellow the spirit. It would then be
sweetened before being ready to serve. There are
no commercially available Créme de Geniéves
currently made today, although the cask-aged
version of the Hayman’s Cordial Gin, made
» exclusively for the German market, comes
very close.

SEE ALSO Creme deViolette | coccranivoneviens

Aviation p20

This purple-hued liqueur is flavoured with

violets. The “creme” in its name does not
have anything to do with dairy, but rather
indicates aminimum level of sweetness. The
origins of Creme de Violette are found in the
Ottoman Empire, where distillation was used
to create floral essences. These techniques were
transported to France by winemakers, who used
them to flavour neutral alcohol for export to
Syria. The first-known commercial Creme de
Violette was sold in Philadelphia, USA in 1783.
By the 19th century, Creme de Violette became
popular with the nobility of Europe. One such
noble, Alix of Hesse, the wife of Czar Nicholas II
of Russia, was said to never drink coffee unless
it contained the liqueur.
After further blips in popularity and reduced
consumption during the First and Second
World Wars, colourful liqueurs continued to be
popular into the 1950s. By the 1960s, however,
the production and distillation of Creme de
Violette had reduced and it became an obscure
 KO
, novelty that was only available in some corners
. of France. Shortly after, it disappeared
- completely. In 2006, Rothman & Winter began
to export their Austrian version of
DOOOCOOOOOOO the liqueur ~ ;
and, in 2009, The Bitter Truth of Germany
released a Créme de Violette inspired by the
> original. Creme de Violette is a key ingredient
in the following cocktails: Aviation, Eagle’s
> Dreamand Pousse Café.
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SEEALSO Cubeb berries PIPER CUBEBA | BOTANICAL
DOOOK
Black peppercornp29
Bombay Spirits Company
p33 ats
Mianichl cacipn p36 Also knownas Java pepper, cubeb originates
Botanicals p39 from Indonesia and is sometimes usedasa
Grains of paradise p23 botanicalin gin production. The berries are
typically dried for around four hours ina
machine. After drying, they are visually very
similar to black peppercorns, with the addition
LOOOOOOCOOOOOOOOOOKYK
ofasmall tail. Cubeb has been used asa spice in
Europe since the 4th century Bc, where it was
imported from Java. There are 9th-century
records inthe Middle East that refer toitasa
seasoning and medicine. In distilling, cubeb
berries are closely linked to grains of paradise
and both botanicals feature in the recipes of
Bombay Sapphire and Bombay Sapphire East.
Cubeb berries adda fruity and floral pepper note,
as wellasalongand lingering menthol flavour,
which is most notably evident on the finish.

SEE ALSO Cucumber CUCUMIS SATIVUS | BOTANICAL

Botanicals p39 pprrperperererrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrtertrr rrr rtirri rrr rt

Fruit cups p97

Amember of the gourd family with long, thin,
Hendrick’s p27
Martin Miller’s p/56 green fruits that have thin skin and sweet
Potdistillationy782 flesh. Cucumber is used extensively in drinks,
Vacuum distillationy233 from refreshing cucumber-infused water and
Vapour distillationy234
cucumber-flavoured soft drinks to garnishes in
fruit cups suchas Pimm’s. Cucumber has been
an essential ingredient in both Hendrick’s and

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
 Martin Miller’s Gin; in these, the cucumber
> isadded after distillation as aconcentrated
> essence. The distillation of cucumber is difficult
- as the flesh is sensitive to heat and, if overcooked,
loses its fresh sweetness and becomes bitter and
briney. For this reason, some distillers vacuum
or vapour distil cucumber so that it is not exposed
toas much heat as it is in pot distillation. Other
distillers filter their gin through cucumber skin
to add flavour. Farallon Gin of California, USA,
filters the water that they will later use to proof
their gin through cucumber.
 2

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SEE ALSO g Diamond method | «:x0.06:
g
Icepi35 $
Martinipl59 Q
2 Made famous byAlessandro Palazzi of Dukes
Shaken/Shakingy207
Stirred/Stirringp2/5 3 Hotelin London, this method of mixing drinks,
especially Martinis, involves chilling the
gin in the freezer beforehand, foregoing the
need for any ice. Glasses are rinsed or spritzed
with vermouth and the chilled gin is poured
8
:straight into the glass. Ginfrom the freezer
is typically around -12°C (10°F), while gin at
room temperature is around 20°C (68°F). The
resulting drink is much colder and stronger,
due to the lack of ice-melt diluting the gin. The
texture of the gin is also thicker and more viscous
—alsoaresult of using colder gin. Critics ofthe
drink suggest that it is little more thana glass of
cold gin, but there is plenty of opportunity for
theatrics. At Dukes Hotel, the drinks are made
onasmall trolley, served alongside the patrons’
table. Because of the higher alcoholic strength
and generous pours, guests at the hotel bar are
strictly limited to two cocktails.

SEE ALSO Dirty Martini |cocxran

Martinip/59
Shaken/Shakingp207
Avariation on the Martini cocktail. While the
classic Martini is often garnished with one or
more olives, the Dirty Martini goes one step
farther with the addition of olive brine to the
shaker or glass before mixing. Additional olives
 are alsoaddedasa garnish. The drinkhasa
briney, vegetal saltiness that helps to stimulate
the appetite, makingit a popular pre-dinner
cocktail. Aneven more extreme variation, the
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‘,

D Filthy Martini, features olives that are muddled

OOO
76 into the shaker or mixing glass in addition to
brine. It is essential to double-strain this cocktail
OOOOK
to ensure a sediment-free drink. The origins of
the Dirty Martiniare thought to go back to 1901,
whena Martini featuring muddled olives was
served by John E O’Connorat the Waldorf Astoria
hotel in New York City. During the Second World
War, President Roosevelt was said to bea fan of
a Martini made witha teaspoon ofolive brine.

Distillation | »xo.vers0%

See “Pot distillation”, “Rectification”,

“Vapour distillation”.

SEE ALSO Distiller | :xooveriox

Contract distillers767
Distilleryp79
Rectification »187
A person who participates in and oversees the
production of gin (or other spirits) through
distillation or rectification. Originally, in order
to become a distiller, an individual would need
to become an apprentice toa distiller already
working ina distillery. Here, the apprentice
would study under the supervision of a master,
hence the term Master Distiller. With the
consolidation of distilleries in the mid-20th
century, the master and apprentice model fell
out of use, although the title Master Distiller was
still used to describe the most senior distiller in
a distillery. Today, witha great increase inthe
number of distilleries, there has beena move to
reserve the term for only the most experienced
of distillers; essentially for those who are
“masters of distilling”. This either comes from

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 a

I
i

el Wea
 a.
.

8& decades of experience or having the ability to

distil or rectify a wide variety of different spirits.
8 The terms Head Distiller or Distillery Manager
8
Pes are now often used for the most senior members
% ofa distilling team. The Head Distiller is not
gS necessarily involved in making the gin ona day-
’&

8$ to-day basis; instead, they oversee the overall

process. The everyday production is undertaken
by the Production Distiller, who may be assisted
:
3rs by one ora number ofAssistant Distillers.

}
SEE ALSO 8 Distillery | :xovvcrios
Contract distillers
p67 %

: produce
Distillerp76
Plymouth Ginyp778
The location where the equipment to distiland
gin (or other spirits) is kept. For many
gin brands, their distillery is owned and operated
by the brand themselves, but some outsource the
production oftheir gins to contract distillers.
3 Distilleries will contain stills, blendingtanks
and often bottling operations; some of these are
automated or semi-automated, whereas others
are completely manual. In recent years, the
concept of “destination distilling” has become
more popular. This involves the distillery being
open to the public, with the provision of distillery
tours and the selling of spirits and souvenirs.
As such, it becomes a “destination” for visitors.
The ability to visit adistillery started with
Plymouth Gin Distillery, but really took offin
2009 with the opening of Sipsmith Distillery
in London. This shifted consumers’ minds from
simply how gins tasted to where they were made.
Destination distilling not only offers additional
revenue streams for gin brands, but also helps
to build brand loyalty.
 SEE ALSO ; Dryvermouth, COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Martinipl59 DO]DHODDODDOH)

Red vermouth p/97

Also knownas French vermouth, dry vermouth
Wormwood p239
is an essential ingredient in many cocktails such
OOOOM®

D » asthe Martini. Itisa fortified wine flavoured

80 with roots, herbs and spices, in particular,
DOOOOOMX
wormwood. The first recipe for dry vermouth,
* which would become Noilly Prat, was created
& byJoseph Noillyin Marseilles, France, in 1813.
Joseph Chavasse created a dry vermouth recipe
; in 1821 that would become Dolin Dry Vermouth
© de Chambéry. Martini Extra Dry, from Italy,
* launched on New Year’s Day in 1900.
Dry vermouth starts as a white wine, which
is fortified with spirit, typically grape alcohol.
After this, itis infused witha variety of
botanicals. The exact blend of botanicals varies
depending on the producer, but can include
herbs, spices, flowers, roots and citrus peels.
By law, it must also be flavoured witha species
of the genus 4rtemisia (Wormwood). While
some sugar may be added to dry vermouth, it is
significantly less than would be added to red or
sweet vermouth. On its own, dry vermouth is
typically drunk chilled or over ice as an aperitif,
but it is perhaps most famous for being one of the
two ingredients ina Dry Martini.
 E
= a

SEE ALSO Elder sauaveus vrezs | sovanteat

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals
p39
Hendrick’s p27
A bushy tree (Sambucus nigra) with white
Signature botanical ginp202 flowers and black berries, common to most
of Europe, sometimes referred to as the
European or black elder. The berries havea
jammy tartness anda light tanginess, while
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO?
the frothy blossom has a lightly sweet and floral
flavour, witha slight, straw-like quality. Both
elderflower and elderberry are popular flavours
in food and drink, especially in the UK and
Nordic countries. Ripe elderberries are used to
make avariety of jams, as wellas being cooked
in sauces. Both elderflowers and elderberries
can also be fermented to make wine. Elderflower
isa popular ingredient from which to make
non-alcoholic cordial, as wellas being the
primary flavour of the liqueur St-Germain.
Ingin distilling, both elderflowers and
elderberries are used, with the berries adding
plump, jammy notes and the flowers bringing
alight, lemony florality. Elderberries are
relatively hardy, but care needs to be taken when
distilling with the more delicate elderflower.
Gins that feature elderflowers as a botanical
include ShortCross Gin and Hendrick’s Gin;
those that use elderberries include ShortCross
Gin and Conker Gin.
SEEALSO 2000000000000
Filtration | PRODUCTION
ABV p13
Aftera gin has been distilled and proofed down
toits bottling strength, it is important that it
is filtered before bottling. It is also essential to
ensure that the bottles that will receive the gin
are clean and free of dust, which could cause
undesirable particulates in the gin. Most gin
distillers pass their gin through a0.5 micron
filter; this isa fine filter which will only allow
the smallest particles through. One thousand
POOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOK

microns are equivalent to 1mm, soa0.5 micron

filter will only allow through particles that are
0.0005mm insize or smaller.
Some distillers opt for the additional step, in
terms of both cost and time, of chill filtration.
This involves the spirit being cooled to between
-10 and 4°C (14 and 39°F) and then passed
througha fine filter. At this low temperature,
any particulates in the spirit are likely to
precipitate or fall out of solution and so are more
easily caught by the filter. While chill filtering
can reduce the possibility of hazing or cloudiness
in the finished product, especially when ice,
water or tonic are added, some critics argue
that it also strips out some of the botanical
complexity ofa gin.

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 SEE ALSO Finsbury Gin | sxx»
ABV p13
Distillery79
Finsbury London Dry Gin was originally
London ginp/57
produced at the Finsbury Distillery in Finsbury,
near Clerkenwell, a district of London just
north of the City of London. The distillery
was founded in 1740 by Joseph Bishop. The
F area was home to various distilleries, due
in part toits access to the pure water of the
Clerkenwell springs. Today, Finsbury
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHON Ginis
owned by Borco International from Germany
and is made in Still No. 7,alsoknownas Jenny,
a 10,000-litre (2,640-gallon) copper pot still at
Langley Distillery, near Birmingham. Current
expressions of Finsbury Gin include aversion at
OD
37.5% ABV, arather intense bottling at 60% ABV,
DOOOOOOOOOOOOO

and the critically acclaimed Finsbury Platinum,

bottled at 47% ABV.

SEE ALSO Fixatives | »xopucrios

QOOOOOOOOOOO
Angelica rootp19
Coriander seed p68
Nutmeg y/68
The flavour and aroma compounds within
Orris root p/74 botanicals that give gin its character are, by
their nature, volatile. Ifthey had no volatility,
then they would not distil easily. Volatility is
the tendency for a substance to vaporize; for
example, picture openinga bottle of gin—an
exotic boutique of botanicals fills the air. This
happens because those aromas are volatile and
vaporize into the air, ready to be smelled and
appreciated by the drinker. These escaping
aromas make the bottle of gin inviting but, over
time, mean that the complexity of the gin may
fade. A similar problem exists in perfumery.
The solution is to use fixatives, which help to
bind flavours together and prevent a gin’s
volatiles (suchas citrus) from evaporating.
A fixative is defined as being “used to equalize
vapour pressure and thus the volatiles of the raw
 |
Se |
f_— RR tae_\
 materials ina perfume oil as well as to increase
its tenacity”. Tenacity is the lasting effect ofa
character or flavour nuance. Fixatives havea
high boiling point compared with the low ones
of volatiles so, when they are mixed together,
the fixatives make the liquid more disordered.
Combined with the formation of some weak
bonds knownas Van der Waal bonds, this is
what stops the volatiles from escaping so easily. ne d
When fixatives are used appropriately, a gin’s
flavour and aroma will be consistent over time.
Examples offixatives include coriander seed,
angelica root, orris root and nutmeg.

SEE ALSO Flavour profiles | »xooverio.

Citrus p58
Classic/Juniper-forward
p58
Floralpyé7
The rough outline ofa gin’s flavour and aroma
Herbalp/28 is knownas its flavour profile. The vast range
Spicy 212 of botanicals used in gin production means that
gins can taste very different from one another.
In order to help communicate these differences
to gin drinkers, authors, educators and gin
companies have come up witha broad selection
DO000OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

of flavour profile groups that most gins fit into.

Examples include classic/juniper-forward,
citrus, herbal, spicy and floral. Itis worth
noting that some gins may fit into more than one
flavour profile group and that some individuals,
because our sense of taste varies, may disagree
with some categorizations.

SEE ALSO Floral | ravourpxorne

Botanical recipep36
Cassia bark p50
Compared with the other standard flavour
Chamomile p53
Citrusp58 profiles of gin, this group covers a smaller
Flavour profiles 787 number of products. Common floral botanicals
French 75 p88 include lavender (which works well with juniper
Hendrick’s 9127
Juniper (common) 7/37
and piney flavours), chamomile, rose and citrus
Lavender p/43 blossom. The floral botanicals are often well
Licorice root p/47 complemented by additional botanical
Mapuninee? © sweetness provided by licorice root, cassia root
Orris root p174 & é : : : .
3 * ororris root in the botanical recipe. Floral gins
Rose p192 x,
© are often finely balanced, elegant and delicate.
: They work particularly wellin short drinks
° suchas the Gin Daisy, Martiniand French
75. Examples offloral gins include Bloom,
> Geranium, Golden Moon, Silent Pool,
» Hendrick’s and Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin.

SEE ALSO French 75 | cocxran

Glassware p119
Ice p135 ‘ : ; ;
ane
Prohibitionp/83
Anexcellent
oe
choice
;
for any celebration, Shethis
Shaken/Shaking»207 cocktailis a mix of Champagne, lemon juice and
gin. The drink goes back to the 1920s, although
similar drinks, suchas the Champagne Cup,
were recorded back in Victorian times. The first
mention of the drink as the “French 75” was
in the 1927 Prohibition-era book, Here’s How!
by Judge Jr, where it was described as being
essentially a Tom Collins made with Champagne
instead of soda water. The ingredients were to be
added toa tall glass filled with ice and no shaking
> was required. The drink also features, witha
nearly identical recipe, in the 1930 version of
The Savoy Cocktail Book by Harry Craddock.
The name of the cocktail is supposedly inspired
bya French artillery field gun. This is often
credited as the 75mm gun M1917, which was
introduced in'1918. However, the Canon de 75
modele 1897, which was produced until 1940,
isamore likely candidate as this was amore
prolific gun at the time and was knownas
both the “75” and the “French 75”. Some
modern recipes for the French 75 include the
unnecessary step of shaking the first three
ingredients, before serving the drink un-iced
ina Champagne glass; it is worth noting that
this canresult inawarmer drink.
 FRENCH 75 RECIPE

35ML // GENEROUS 1FL0z / GIN

15M. / %FL Oz / FRESH LEMON JUICE
15MuL / %FL Oz / SIMPLE SUGAR SYRUP
3—4 DASHES OF ORANGE BITTERS (OPTIONAL)
CHAMPAGNE,TO TOP UP

Filla tall glass with ice, add the first three ingredients and stir.
Drizzle with the bitters, tfusing, then top up with Champagne.

SEE ALSO Fruit Cups | coccranivoxevient

Gingerale p176
Plymouth Ginp/78
Redvermouthp/97 Amix ofspirit, fortified wine and other
Tonic water p226 flavourings which is used as a form ofpre-bottled
punch to be diluted witha non-alcoholic mixer
suchas lemonade, ginger ale or tonic water. The
diluted drink is often served froma well-iced
jug or pitcher and garnished with various fruits,
flowers and leaves suchas lemon, lime, mint and
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borage. The most prolific fruit cup is Pimm’s
No.1, first released in 1840, whichis made witha
gin base and has inspired many other distilleries
to release their own versions suchas Plymouth
Distillery, Sipsmith Distillery, New Columbia
Distillers and Cotswolds Distillery. Fruit cups
are made by acombination of maceration and
distillation of botanicals with spirit. Wine, red
vermouth, orange liqueur and ginger wine are
common ingredients, too.
While most modern-day fruit cups are gin-
based, variations based on other spirits have been
released in the past. Pimm’s releaseda range of
expressions based on different spirits: Pimm’s
No.2 Cup (Scotch whisky base), released in 1851;
Pimm/’s No.3 Cup (brandy base), released in
1851; Pimm’s No.4 Cup (rum base), released in
1933; Pimm’s No.5 Cup (Canadian rye whiskey
base), released in Canada in the 1960s and the
USand UK in 1964; and Pimm’s No.6 Cup (vodka
base), released in 1964. These variations were
produced until 1970, when the company was
 sold to The Distiller’s Company, which would
later become part of Diageo. These additional
cups were then discontinued, although No.6 was
swiftly brought back (it was a favourite of the
Chairman’s wife) and remained in production
until 2014.

F SEE ALSO
Gordon’s 7/20
Fruit gin | GIN STYLE

Sloe ginp208 0000000000000000000000000000000

A gin that has been flavoured by the infusion
of fresh or dried fruit. Fruit gins are often
sweetened, sometimes with the addition of fruit
juice. The most famous fruit gin is probably sloe
gin, which is technically a category inits own
right and is classified as a liqueur. Fruit gins
have been made onadomestic scale for centuries
and were often used as a way to preserve excess
fruit. Inthe UK, fruit gins were made from
country and hedgerow fruit and berries such as
sloes, damsons and blackberries. Commercial
varieties of fruit gin became available by the
early 20th century, with orange and lemon
gins being some of the most popular flavours.
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOQOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCW

Gordon’s produced an orange anda lemon gin for

nearly 60 years. In Scotland, apple gin, made by
infusing the soluble parts ofan apple in gin, was
particularly popular. Other popular flavours
of the period included passionfruit, pineapple,
maple, celery and asparagus. By the 1960s, these
products had become less popular and many were
discontinued; the last lemon gin was produced
until 1988. At the beginning of the 21st century,
fruit gins began to make a comeback with the
return of orange gin accompanied by new
flavours such as elderflower, rhubarb, cherry
and pineapple.
SEEALSO Galangal ALPINIA GALANGA | BOTANICAL —
. . 93
Sea
NNEUSE
PVC97-5Gi RGD na cece cou ee cae See cack naan cage ss coco oso sci lvans SoccasacseSoussucanesecedecuaseacpacdavedess
Botanicals p39 see :
Citruspse Also knownas blue or Thai ginger, galangal is
Coriander seed p68 a rhizome, a subterranean stem, that is closely
Ginger p//4 related to common ginger and part of the
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bataSE eid nid Zingiberaceae family. It is used as a botanical

to flavour some gins. Galangal is native to
Indonesia, but also grows in the Philippines,
Laos, Malaysiaand Thailand. The botanical
looks similar to ginger root, but has a darker,
pink-brownskin. At one time, galangal wasa
popular gin botanical, likely due to its flavour of
citrus and pine, which naturally complements
other gin botanicals suchas juniper, coriander
and citrus peels. It contains the oil galangol,
which breaks down during distillation to
produce chemical compounds including pinene,
cineol and eugenol. Gin 1495 Verbatim and Gin
1495 Interpretation use galangalasa botanical.

SEE ALSO Garnishes | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Gin& Tonic y104 Prrerreee rer erre rer ee errr terre eee eee eee eee

eae The finishing touch that, when added toa

cocktail, improves the look, aroma and taste
of the drink. The most popular type of garnish
is citrus fruit — usually lemon, lime, orange
or grapefruit — prepared in one ofa number of
different ways. A wedge is cut vertically, end-
to-end from the citrus fruit and either placed in
the drink or on the side of the glass. A wheelisa
 horizontal slice cut across the entire diameter
of the fruit, while a twist is a piece of the rind
which is peeled away from the pith and squeezed
over the drink so that the oils in the peel are
expressed (sprayed over the drink).
There is some debate over whether to use
lemon or lime fora Gin & Tonic. Lemon is
sweeter and so tends to work well with more
classic, dryer gins, while the tartness of lime is
G
= aa ~ a good contrast to the sweet flavour profiles of
some contemporary gins. Acompromise — the
use of both lemon and lime — is knownas the
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Evans Gin & Tonic. Other garnishes often used
in gin cocktails include olives, cocktail onions,
cucumber slices, basilleaves, sprigs of rosemary
and chocolate shavings.

SEE ALSO Geneve | aw sri

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ABV p13
Also knownas jenever or Geneva gin, this spirit
originates from the Netherlands. Genever is
named after the Dutch for juniper, yeneverbes.
Genever has acharacterful base spirit made from
malt wine (moutwzjn); this is made froma variety
of grains suchas rye, malted barley or corn. The
spirit is produced ina similar way to whiskey in
that it is triple or quadruple distilled in pot stills.
There are four main styles of genever.
Jonge genever is amodern style first developed
in the 1950s to be light and easier to mixin
cocktails. It is closer to gin and contains less
malt wine than other styles. This style must,
technically, be bottled at 35% ABV and contain no
more than 15% malt wine and 10g (402) of sugar
per litre (1% pints).
The name of Oude genever reflects the older
style, rather than the age of the spirit itself.
These genevers are more botanically intense,
with more of the flavour of the base spirit coming
 through. Oude genever must technically be
bottled at least 35% ABV, contain no more
than 20g (%40z) of sugar per litre (1% pints)
and contain at least 15% malt wine. Ifan Oude
genever is labelled as aged, it must have been
aged for at least ayear ina barrel of 700 litres
(154 gallons) or smaller in size.
Korenwijn, also knownas cornor grain wine,
must technically contain at least 51% malt wine
and be bottled at at least 38% ABV. The maximum G_
amount of sugar allowed per litre (1% pints) is
20¢ (%402).
The final category contains the fruit-flavoured
genevers, which tend to be less botanically
intense and havea more neutral base.

SEEALSO Gibson | cockran

Dry vermouthpé0O
Martinip/59 90000000000OOO00OOO2O0OOOOOOOOOO™O”OOOHOOOOOMOOOOOOOOOHOOHIAK
< Avariation on the Martini cocktail; the main
Umamip231
point of difference is the use ofacocktail onion
or twoas the garnish. There are numerous
origin stories for this cocktail, although it seems
likely that it was invented in the Bohemian Bar
by businessman Walter D K Gibson. The onion
adds a lot of flavour, with lots of savoury and
umaminotes. Cocktail onions are usually pearl
onions (4/ium ampeloprasumvar. sectivum),
also knownas button or baby onions. They have
anatural sweetness andare pickled with small
quantities of spices suchas pepper, paprikaand
turmeric. Some cocktail onions are also pickled
in vermouth instead of brine or vinegar and
can therefore be used to adda tiny splash of
vermouth to the Martinis of drinkers who
preferavery dry Gibson.
SEE ALSO & Gilbey’s | BRAND

ABV p13 sarees: setcichetsamsssacrsitusnetssesccerzed

Me Gancetcossouscssucseston eheadsavaetuncaxtansusvaacectssnece
107 ‘ nee : ;
is kated * Atrue classic of Britain’s gin heritage anda
’ gin brand that continues to remain popular,
® especially insome Commonwealth markets,
to this day. Gilbey’s Gin was founded in 1872
by Walter and Alfred Gilbey. The brothers
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were introduced to the industry by another
brother, Henry Gilbey, who was a partner in
awine merchants. The gin was produced at
the Gilbey Distillery in Camden Town, London.
Over time, Gilbey’s diversified and purchased
a selection of Scotch whisky distilleries as well
as Croft’s Port. Given the success of the gin
brand prior to the Second World War, satellite
distilleries were opened in Australiaand
Canada. Throughout its history, Gilbey’s has
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been bottled at between 37.5% and 47.4% ABV.
There was alsoa Gilbey’s Antique Gin, which
» was based onanold recipe and bottled at 43%
ABV. While the brand is now owned by Diageo,
Gilbey’s is produced and sold undera long-term
licence by Beam Suntory.

SEE ALSO Gimlet | COCKTAIL

Glassware p119
Ice p135
Plymouth Ginp778 Ashaken gin drink made from equal parts
Shaken/Shakingp207 gin and lime cordial; the latter is sometimes
substituted for a mix of fresh lime juice and
sugar syrup. Traditionally, Plymouth Gin and
Rose’s Cordial are used. The drink has strong
naval connections and it is likely that itis
named after a tool used to pierce holes in barrels,
although some sources suggest that it isnamed
after a former Surgeon Admiral, Sir Thomas
Gimlette. Lime juice was given to sailors to help
prevent scurvy, and lime cordial was a way to
preserve fresh lime juice for long voyages. The
earliest written reference to the Gimlet was in
 * May 1927 inthe Portsmouth Evening News.
> The article describes a Lieutenant from the
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* Royal Navy whowasarrested, having been
accused of driving when drunk. The officer
had consumed “six or seven Gimlets”. When
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asked what these were, the Lieutenant
described themasadrink made from “gin,
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lime juice and water”.

=G GIMLET RECIPE
100
50ML / 2FLOz / DRY GIN (IDEALLY PLYMOUTH DRY GIN)
20ML / %FLOZ / LIME CORDIAL

Place the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with ice,

shake welland strain into a cocktail glass.

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SEE ALSO Gin Act 1729 | HISTORY

Base spirit p27

Common ginp64
Gin Act 1736 p101
The Gin Acts were aseries of laws put into
Gin Act 1751 pl01 place inthe United Kingdom during the 18th
Gin house p107 century to help stem the abuse of gin and the
Gin Lanepl08
social, criminal and health problems that it
was causing. The initial attempt to reduce
gin consumption in 1729 required retailers
to purchase an annual licence and addedan
excise duty of 5shillings per gallon on gin.
One of the aims of the new costs was to
encourage the export of domestic spirit.
Wealthy landowners, whose grain was often
used by distillers to make the base spirit of
gins, were concerned about the potential loss
of income. One issue with the act was that it
specifically focused on gin, which was defined
as being made using “juniper berries, or other
fruit, spices or ingredients” so the law could
easily be circumvented by leaving out the
botanicals. This raw alcohol became known
as “Parliamentary Brandy”.

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SEE ALSO Gin ACt 1736 | sisrony
Common gin p64
Gin Act 1729 p00
Gin Act 1751 p01 After the failure of the Gin Act of 1729, anew act
Gin Lane p/08 was designed to curb the consumption of gin. As
before, this new act (also knownas the Spirits
Duties Act of 1735) included anannual licence fee
for retailers and an excise tax on gin. The excise
tax was 20 shillings per gallon (approximately
£27 per litre (1% pints) in 2017 prices) and the
licence fee was £50 (about £6,070 in 2017 prices).
The licence drove gin production underground
and few licences were issued. Enforcement of the
act was weak and gin production increased.
By the 1740s, Britain was involved ina full-
scale war on the continent caused bya dispute
over Maria Theresa’s succession to the throne
within the Habsburg Monarchy. The dispute
involved almost all of the major powers within
Europe. The fighting was not confined to the
European continent, but spread to India and
the British colonies in North America, too. The
immense financial pressure of this global war
led to the repeal of this gin act in 1743 (with the
new Gin Act of 1743). The excise duty on gin was
reduced and the retail licence was reduced to £1,
a reduction of 98 percent.

SEE ALSO Gin Act 1751 | sssronv

Gin Act 1729 p/00
Gin Act 1736 p101
This parliamentary act (also knownas the Sales
Gin house p107
Gin Lane p108 of Spirits Act 1750) was passed in the United
Kingdom in response to rising incidents of
robberies and murders, which were linked by
a parliamentary committee to the increase
in gin consumption. Petitions from many
London parishes, as well as the major towns
of Bristol, Manchester and Norwich, called
on the government to pass regulation. Unlike
previous laws, this act focused on gin producers,

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 OOK

rather than retailers. The act made it illegal for

gin distillers to sell their spirits to unlicensed
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merchants. The licence for retailers was set at £2
and could only be issued to individuals who were
LIV

payers of rent and rates. These two measures put

many small gin shops and sellers out of business
and consolidated the gin business to the larger
and more established merchants. The act was
successful. In 1751, consumption ofgin in the
UKwas 38.6 million litres (8.5 million gallons);
this fell to 26.8 million litres (6.9 million gallons)
in 1752 and again to 9.5 million litres (2.1 million
gallons) by 1760.

SEE ALSO Gin & Cola | COCKTAIL

Bush gin p43

Citrus p58
Classic/Juniper-forwardp58
Adrink made by combining ginandcolaina
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Contemporary ginp6é5 similar way toa Gin & Tonic. While the mixed
Flavour profiles 787 drink’s popularity is currently limited to the
Fruit ginp92
» USAand Europe, it is gradually increasing. The
Garnishes p93
Gin Tonicap//3 practice of drinking gin with cola is particularly
Glassware p119 > common with the brand Uganda Waragi from
Gordon’s 7/20
Africa; Coca Colais something ofaluxury item
Icepl35
Uganda Waragip231 and so drinking gin with it isastatus symbol.
Inthe rest of the world, the emergence of
contemporary styles of gins with bold flavour
profiles which are less juniper-forward has led
to experimentation with different flavours and
drinks. These new gins are well complemented
by the herbal and spice aromatics of cola, in
particular bush gins and those witha greater
citrus character. Fruit gins, suchas those
flavoured with strawberry, pineapple and cherry,
are alsocommonly mixed with cola. The result
is anaccessible drink that appeals to new gin
drinkers and isa good starting point from which
to start exploring gin. Despite the contemporary
feel of the Gin & Cola, there are references to the
combination dating back to at least 1927, when
 OC

Judge Jr’s Here’s How! details the “Southern

Exposure”: a 50/50 mix of Gordon’s Ginand
Coca Cola served over cracked ice.

GIN & COLA RECIPE

50ML / 2FLOz / GIN

150M. / 5FL0z / COLA
1 DASH OF ORANGE BITTERS
CITRUS FRUITS,TO GARNISH

Filla tall glass (or Gin Tonica glass) with ice, add allthe
ingredients and garnish with a medley of citrus fruits.

SEE ALSO Gin& Tonic |cocxrsu

Gin Tonicapl73
Glasswarepl19
The first written reference to the Gin & Tonic
Icepl135
Quininated ginp185 was inan 1868 edition of 7he Oriental Sporting
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Quinine p85 Magazine inwhich the writer recounts a story of
Tonic water 7226
horse racing in Sialkot, which is today part of the
Punjab province in Pakistan, but was then part
of British India. The original Gin & Tonic would
have been drunk, in part, for medical reasons
commonly accepted at the time. The quinine
of the tonic water warded off malaria, while
the gin was thought to aid digestion. Any citrus
added would have helped to prevent scurvy.
Early Gin & Tonics would have likely beena
murky mixture of powdered cinchona bark,
sugar for sweetening, lime juice and gin, with
still or sparkling water added afterwards. After
the quinine sulphate quinine in crystal form)
was isolated from the bark, it would have been
possible to instead ship a box of these “quinine
grains” to various colonial outposts of the
British Empire and for drinkers to adda single
grain toa bottle of soda water to make their
tonic. By the late 19th century, officers and
administrators returning from the Empire
brought the taste back home with them to the
UK, although it remained an obscure drink

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(EHO HoH
EOS ee ee be eee Res EE Bee oe
 in the United States, even into the 1930s. This
changed when Schweppes issued a franchise to
the Metropolitan Bottling Company in the 1950s,
accompanied by an advertising campaign. At this
time, tonic water was still called quinine water in
the United States. The Gin & Tonic continued to
bea popular drink throughout the second half of
the 20th century. Recent innovations in serves,
tonic waters and gin itself have rejuvenated the
drink, a specific example being the Spanish-
style Gin Tonica serve, which allows for great
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOIOOH
creativity and customization.

GIN & TONIC RECIPE

50ML / 2FL0Zz / DRYGIN

150ML / 5FLOZ / CHILLED TONIC WATER
LEMON AND LIME SLICES,TO GARNIGH

Filla chilled tumbler or highball glass with ice. Add the gin,
then top up with tonic water. Garnish with lemon and lime.
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
©

SEE ALSO Gin Guild | HISTORY

Worshipful Company of (XK cerseveseessessesserseesseesenscesssssessessersensenessnensesssessnsssaesenssenseaseasseseneenscnensents
Distillers 7239 : : :
Founded in 2013 with close connections to the
Worshipful Company of Distillers, the Gin
Guild aims to “celebrate excellence in gin
distillation and promotion”. Membership
is made up ofacollection of distillers, brand
owners, bartenders, writers and journalists
from around the world. The Gin Guildis alsoa
repository of gin-related information and runs
anannual one-day conference, the Ginposium,
as wellasa selection of other talks and tastings
throughout the year.

SEE ALSO Gin house | s:s:02+

Booth’s p34 PRUeicnenceerac nie aacrsusesesucdsdssVenesasbbasesruasseqsevesrossscssevadecdsssanascausscsessesecssse¥es

ee
Gilbey’s p98
The term “ginpinehouse”; refers toa numberé of gin
Gin Act 17297100 brands and distilleries that were established
Gin palacepi11 inthe 18thand 19thcenturies. They led gin’s
 Gordon’s 7720 return to respectability after the Gin Craze.
Greenall’s p/26 Most gin houses were based in London, family
Tanqueray p2/9
owned and named after the individual who
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founded them. Many ofgin’s biggest names
are historical gin houses and many continue
to exist in one form or another. Examples
include Booth’s (founded in London around
1740 by John Booth), Burnett’s (founded in
1770 in London by Sir Robert Burnett),
G Burrough’s (founded in 1862 in Chelsea,
~ 108
London, by James Burrough), Gilbey’s
(founded in 1872 in Camden Town, London, by
Walter and Alfred Gilbey), Gordon’s (founded
in 1769 in London by Alexander Gordon),
Greenall’s (founded in 1761 by Thomas Dakin),
Warrington (purchased by G&J Greenall -
QOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCK

now G&J Distillers — in 1870) and Tanqueray

(founded in 1830 in Bloomsbury, London, by
Charles Tanqueray).

SEE ALSO Gin Lane | ssrory

Common gin p64
Gin Act 1729 p00
Gin Act 1736 p101
One ofa set of two contrasting prints, the other
GinAct 1751p/01 being Beer Street, which were created by artist
William Hogarth (1697-1764) in 1751. Gin Lane
- portrays the “evil” of gin, while Beer Street
illustrates the supposed “benefits” of drinking
beer. The two prints were engraved by Hogarth
who then sold copies of them on fora guinea for
the set. In the initial subscription, 1,240 were
sold. Gin Lane, set in the parishes of either St
Giles or St James in London, showsa range of
thievery, skullduggery and drunkenness. Both
the people and the buildings are ina state of
disrepair and decay, and only the pawnbrokers
is thriving. In contrast, Beer Street shows the
buildings ina fine state of repair, except for
the tumbledown pawnbrokers. The people are
portrayed as happy, civilized and contented.
ANY
 The prints were a visual aid to support the
argument that many of the time were making
against the evils of gin. The Gin Craze was well
DOOOOOOOOOOOC

established in Great Britain during this period,

especially in London. There wasa sharp increase
in the production and consumption ofgin, but
limited regulation and poor-quality product led
to an epidemic of drunkenness and increases
incrimeand disorder. During the first half of
00000:
the 18th century, many in the middle and upper
classes were campaigning for the government
to respond, which they eventually didin the
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form ofaseries of Acts of Parliament known
> asthe Gin Acts.

SEE ALSO Gin liqueurs | crx sr

ABV p13
Créme de Geniéve p7/
Fruit ginp92
Products that use ginas their base, but have
Sloe ginp208 > been flavoured and sweetened after distillation.
In order to be considered a liqueur (within
the European Union, at least), a product must
contain 100g (3%0z) of sugar per litre (1% pints).
Most typical gin liqueurs are similar to fruit
gin, where a gin has been infused with fruit
or other ingredients, before being sweetened;
the product takes on the aromas, flavours and
often the colour of the ingredients. Popular
flavours include rhubarb, orange, sloe, damson
and elderflower. Gin liqueurs often have lower
alcoholic strength than gins. Inthe EU, they
must bea minimum of 15% ABV, compared
witha minimum of37.5% ABV for gin. Most
commercially available gin liqueurs sit
between 20% and 30% ABV, although over the
last few years there has beenarecent rise in
popularity of “full strength” gin liqueurs
bottled at 40% ABV. Many fruit gins could
also be considered gin liqueurs.
SEE ALSO Gin palace | nisrox
Common ginp64
Gin house p/07
Gin Lanep/08 The gin shops of the mid-18th-century Gin Craze
were small, seedy, unlicensed establishments.
> Unscrupulous landlords would often water
down and then adulterate gin with substances
» asunpleasantas oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid)
so that the gin still hadakick. Incontrast
to these dark, dingy dens, the gin palaces of
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the mid-18th century were places of gaiety

iris
and light. Gin palaces were created in part in
response to brewers who were investing heavily
in public houses to make them more attractive
to the passing trade and the rising middle
classes, buoyed by the success of the Industrial
> Revolution. Another result of the Industrial
Revolution, gas lighting, allowed the gin palaces
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to become bright establishments, often aided by
plenty of gilding and sparkling mirrors. One of
the best accounts ofa gin palace is from Sketches
by Boz written by Charles Dickens in the 1830s.
In this, Dickens describes plate glass windows,
gilt gas burners and ornamental mirrors; a place
that was “perfectly dazzling” in stark contrast
to “the darkness and dirt” of the outside world.
Gin palaces offered drinkers comfortable
surroundings that were light, bright and —- most
importantly during the winter months — warm;
something that they might not have had at home.

SEE ALSO Gin Rickey | cockran

Gimlet p98
Glassware p119
Also knownasa Lime Rickey, this simple cocktail
Ice pi35
Soda water p208 started life as a Bourbon whiskey cocktail, rather
thanagin one. It was invented in the 1880s as
along, thirst-quenching cocktailand named
after the lobbyist, broker and Civil War veteran,
Colonel Joe Rickey, who hailed from Fulton,
Missouri. The drink was created in Shoomaker’s

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 Bar on Pennsylvania Avenue in Washington DC.
The bar was frequented by various politicians,
lawmakers and journalists, which was why it
wasa key hang-out for lobbyists. By the 1890s, a
variation on the original cocktail had emerged,
which replaced the Bourbon with gin. This adds
a botanical complexity and makes the drink
slightly drier. Most gins will work wellinaGin
Rickey, but for added authenticity, choose one
of the great gins produced by a distillery in 2 G ee
Washington DC, suchas Green Hat Distillery,
JosephAMagnus & Co., One Eight Distilling,
or District Distilling Co. Ifthe drink is too tart,
you can always add some sugar to sweeten it.

GIN RICKEY RECIPE

50ML / 2FLOz / DRY GIN

15ML / “4FLOz / FRESH LIME JUICE
CLUB SODA OR SPARKLING WATER,TO TOP UP

Filla tallglass with ice, add the gin and lime juice, and stir.
Top up with soda or sparkling water.

SEEALSO Gin Tonica | COCKTAIL

Garnishesp92 = rae enenseeenenseseseeceesessersessensensensensenscsecseessenesarenseatenssnesnecneenesenensenesneenes®
Gin & Tonicp104 : :
<i anaes
Glassware p19
The ene
Spanish-style ; serve of the4 Ginri & Tonic, j
Icep135 which is now considered a drinkin its own right
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Tonic water p226 as aresult of its popularity. The drink requiresa
large, stemmed “goldfish bowl” glass, although
alarge burgundy glass is sometimes used. The
glass is filled with plenty ofice before a generous
measure of gin is added, followed by tonic. The
Gin Tonica utilizes a great range of colourful,
aromatic and imaginative garnishes, which
are often matched to the specific pairing of gin
and tonic. The large amount ofice in the drink
helps to keep it cold throughout the hot Spanish
summers and the stemmed glassware prevents
the drinker’s hands from heating up the drink.
The Gin Tonica originated in 2008 in the Basque
 - region of Europe and was popular with local
OO

Michelin star chefs who needed to keep cool

during kitchen service. The popularity of the
Gin Tonica has led toa range of accessories being
added to the market, suchas pots of botanicals for
garnishes, botanical infusion tea bags and a wide
range of flavoured tonic waters.

SEE ALSO Ginebra San Miguel |sxx»

G ABV p73
ane, Botanicals
p39
The world’s best-selling gin, which is produced in
Compounded gin p64
Juniper (common) 7737 the Philippines and almost exclusively consumed
Lemonp/43 there; very little of the product is available for
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Lime (Persian) p/48
export. The company is owned by the San Miguel
OO
Corporation, which is basedin Manila. Ginebra
San Miguelcurrently make three gin-related
products: their original red label, bottled at
40% ABV and flavoured with juniper and other
essences; a “Premium” offering bottled at 35%
ABV, which features juniper, lemon and lime,
among other botanicals; and GSM Blue, which is
described asa “cane alcohol blended with essence
of juniper and other botanicals” and is bottled
at 32.5% ABV. Technically, only the red label can
be considered gin inthe European Unionand
United States. All products in the current range
are produced by cold compounding spirit with
botanical essences and flavourings; no botanicals
are distilled. Both the red label and premium
varieties taste like very light examples of ginand
are often embellished by the consumer; popular
examples include the placing of chilli peppers or
other spices or herbs into the bottle to infuse.

SEE ALSO Ginger ZINGIBER OFFICINALE | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Cardamomp49 A member of the Zingiberaceae (ginger
Galangalp93 family) alongwith cardamom and galangal,
Gingeralepli6 ginger is also commonly used asa botanical
qa
=<
NTO
Ginger winep/77 in gin production. The exact origin of ginger
Gordon’s p/20 is unknown, although many botanists believe
that it originated in India. Ginger is a flowering
plant, although it is the root that is ofinterest
to cooks and distillers. The part of the plant
referred toas the root is actually a rhizome
(subterranean stem), which is available in fresh,
dried, powdered or pickled forms. Ginger has
a spicy heat due to the presence of the chemical
compound gingerol, which is related to capsaicin
and piperine, the chemicals that give black
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pepper and chilli pepper their heat. Capsaicin

vo is sometimes added to ginger-flavoured dishes
Ag
and products (especially ginger beer) to increase
their heat as it is cheaper than ginger. Indrinks,
ginger is the key flavour of ginger wine, ginger
ale and ginger beer. In gin production, it can be
used as a botanical to add spice notes anda sweet,
cosy warmth, although the flavour and heat of
ginger is much more subtle when distilled than
when in its raw or powdered forms. Examples
® ofgins that use ginger include Campfire Gin,
Gordon’s Distiller’s Cut and Opihr Gin.

SEE ALSO Ginger ale | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Gingerp1/4
Gordon’s 7120 2
a Acarbonated, sweetened soft drink flavoured
with ginger. Unlike ginger beer, it is not
produced by the fermentation of ginger with
yeast and sugar, but is simply flavoured with the
spice. Ginger ale is generally golden in colour
and clear, whereas ginger beer is often cloudy
because of the fermentation process. In addition
to ginger, other flavourings are sometimes used,
including other spices and fruit, suchas lemon or
lime. There are two types of ginger ale: Belfast
style, a heavier, sweeter style witha strong
ginger flavour that dates back to 19th-century
Northern Ireland; and dry ginger ale, which is
 alighter style attributed to John J McLaughlin,
chemist, pharmacist and the founder of Canada
Dry. McLaughlin founded a soda water bottling
plant in Toronto in 1890 and, around 1904, had
declared his desire to make “the Champagne
of ginger ale”; he patented Canada Dry Ginger
Ale in 1907. The dry style gained in popularity
throughout the 20th century, in particular
because ofits mixability with spirits and the
rise of the cocktail hour. Other popular brands
include Schweppes, Seagram’s and Fever-Tree.
Popular mixed drinks involving gin and ginger
ale include the Gin Buck (ginand ginger ale,
often garnished with lemon) and The Padlock
(equal parts Gordon’s Gin and ginger ale,
OX
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The introduction to The Padlock states, “This
drink is very popular because it’s so easy to mix
if you are out dancing. In fact, youcan mixitin
the ginger ale bottles at home and put them right
up on the table”.

SEE ALSO Ginger Wine | cockrarincxerews

ABV p13
Finsbury Ginp&4
Fruit cups p9Z
Ginger wine isa fortified wine made from
Gingerp1/4 fermented ginger root and raisins. The earliest
reference to the drink tells ofits production at
the Finsbury Distilling Company in 1740. One
of the distillery’s major customers was grocer
Joseph Stone, who was based in High Holborn,
London. Stone’s Ginger Wine is still made today
and is bottled at 13.5% ABV. A sweeter and
stronger “Special Reserve” is bottled at 18%
ABV. Ginger wine is sometimes drunk neat
over ice, but isalsoa common ingredient in
fruit cups and other cocktails suchas the
Cushing Cocktail (2 parts ginand 1 part
ginger wine, shaken with ice).
SEE ALSO Ginniver | ox svi
ABV p13
Base spirit p27
Botanical recipe p36 Similar in many ways toa hybrid gin, Ginniver
Botanicals p39 sits firmly between aGeneverandadry gin.
Charge p54 It has the malty character of aDutch Genever,
Contemporary ginp6é5 OOOO’

Genever p94
but the botanical complexity and dryness ofa
Hybrid giny732 modern gin. Ginnivers are typically made by
London ginp/5/ distilleries that also produce whiskey and are
Potdistillationp7s2
most common in the United States of America,
with the distillery using their unaged whiskey
119
(or “white dog”, as it is known) as the gin’s base
spirit. The botanical recipes tend to be relatively
simple, containing only five or six botanicals, as
the base spirit itselfadds a lot of character and
almost acts like a botanical in its own right.
As the white dog used for the base spirit of the
gin is likely to have been pot distilled, it is
unlikely that it will have been distilled up to
96% ABV, thus making it ineligible to be sold
in the European Union (EU) as gin. Asasolution,
some distillers willaddasmall proportion
of Neutral Grain Spirit (NGS) that has been
distilled to 96% ABVto the still’s charge,
thus satisfying the EU regulation. Examples
of Ginnivers or Ginniver-like gins include
FEW American Ginand Copperworks.

SEE ALSO Glassware | s:xov0cv

Aviationp20
Gin & Tonicpy104
The collective term for the various types of glass
Gin TonicapZ/3
Ice pl35 used to drink and enjoy gin. These include the
Martinip/59 Tasting Glass, asmall, typically tulip-shaped
Negronivl68
glass with asmall bowl which narrows at the
lip. This helps to concentrate the aromas of
botanicals. Tasting glasses are available in both
stemmed and unstemmed versions. Popular
examples include those produced by Glencairn
and Bugatti. The Martini Glass, sometimes
referred to more generally asa cocktail glass,

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 isastemmed glass witha V-shaped bowl. The
stem helps to keep the heat from the drinker’s
hand from warming the drink. These are often
used for Martinis, Aviations, Sweet Martinis
and White Ladies.
The Tumbler is a short glass that fits
comfortably in the hand and often has a heavy
base. This glass is used for short drinks suchas
the Negroniand the Bramble. It is alsoa popular
choice for some for the Gin & Tonic. The Hi-
ball or Highballisa tall glass to be used for long
drinks that need to be served with plenty ofice,
drinks suchas the Collins, Singapore Sling,
Long Island Iced Tea and, in some cases, the
Gin & Tonic. The way that the ice stacks in the
glass means that, initially, the cubes melt more
slowly. The Gin Tonica isa tall, stemmed glass
witha large bowl, typically big enough to hold
600ml (1 pint) of liquid. The glass needs to be big
to contain the vast amount ofice called for by the
Gin Tonica.

SEE ALSO Gordon’s | sxsx»

ABV p13
Angelica root pZ9
Botanical recipep36 Amajor gin brand from England that has
Botanicals p39 produced gin since the 18th century. They
Coriander seed p68 produce aclassic London dry gin, which is
Fruit giny92
Gin house p07
soldat avariety of strengths. The UK version
Juniper (common) p/37 has adistinctive green glass bottle, but export
Licorice root p/47 varieties are soldin clear bottles. Its botanical
London giny/5/
recipe includes juniper, coriander seed,
Old Tom ginp/77
Tanqueray
219 angelica root and licorice root. Gordon’s also
Vesper p237 produce a sloe ginanda number of flavoured
gins. Notable discontinued products include
an Old Tom gin, orange gin, lemon ginanda
range of pre-mixed cocktails in shaker-themed
bottles. The company was founded in London
in 1769 by Alexander Gordon, originally from
Scotland. The company moved to Clerkenwell,
Oe
NER SUT iat TE ES TS
 London, in 1786 and continued to be owned by
the Gordon family until 1847, when Charles
Gordon sold it to John Currie & Co.,a producer
of neutral spirit whose customers included,
among others, Tanqueray. In 1898, Gordon’s and
Tanqueray merged, forming the single biggest
gin producer in England. In 1922, the company
was acquired by The Distillers Company Ltd.
This was later taken over by Guinness & Co. to
become United Distillers, which is nowa part G
Gee
of Diageo. Gordon’s opened their first distillery
in the United States in 1934. They also opened
distilleries in Canada, South Americaand
Jamaica. In 1998, their UK gin production
moved to Cameronbridge Distillery in Scotland.
Today, Gordon’s London Dry Gin is produced
and distributed around the world. The strength
varies depending on the market: 37.5% ABVin
the United Kingdom, 40% ABV in the United
States and 47.3% ABV in continental Europe
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and for UK Duty Free. Gordon’s has made

notable appearances in popular culture for
many years, including in the novels by Ian
Fleming, where the Vesper cocktail is made with
Gordon’s. They also have a well-documented
history of advertising, appearing in films such
as The African Queen and The Maltese Falcon.
The gin appears regularly as anamed ingredient
in vintage cocktail books.

SEE ALSO Grains of paradise srx:sowenwexzcvers |

Bombay Spirits Company
p33 BOTANICAL
Botanical cuts p35
Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39 Also knownas alligator or Guinea peppers,
Cardamomp49 grains of paradise are small, peppercorn-like
Flavour profiles p87
seeds that form inside pods. This spice and gin
Ginger p114
botanical is available bothas whole seeds or
in ground form. Itis part of the ginger family
(Zingiberaceae) and related to cardamom.
 The tall, leafy plant that produces grains of
paradise is native to West Africa and grows in
coastal swamps. When eaten, the seeds have
a peppery, citrus quality but, when distilled,
produce a menthol-pepper flavour that adds
depth toa flavour profile and extends the finish.
The essential oils within grains of paradise
include gingerol, paradol and shagaol; these
give the seeds their characteristic peppery heat.
Because ofthis, the botanical has been used in the
past by unscrupulous individuals to adulterate
watered-down spirits; the pepper heat makes
aliquid seem more alcoholic than it actually is.
Although the spice was used regularly during the
early Roman Empire, it did not become popular
in Europe until the 14th and 15thcenturies,
when it was used asa substitute for black pepper
and toimprove the taste of wine. Examples of
gins made using grains of paradise include
Bombay Sapphire, Monkey 47 and Opihr.

SEE ALSO Grapefruit crzosxrs2svis: | sorantcat

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Citrus p58
Limonene p/48
Linalool p50
Anaturally occurring citrus hybrid of sweet
Pinenepl77 orange (Citrus sinensis) and pomelo (Citrus
Pomelop/87 maxima), which is usedasa gin botanical. It
Sweet orange p216
traces its origins back to the 17th century and
the Caribbean island of Barbados. The hybrid
was nicknamed the “forbidden fruit” and was
introduced tothe American state of Florida
in 1823; the first shipments farther north to
New York and Philadelphia came in 1885.A
series of crossbred and hybrid grapefruits was
cultivated in the USA and led to the creation of
the pink grapefruit in 1906, followed by the Ruby
Red, which was patented in Texas in 1929. The
grapefruit has alight, zesty sweetness, which is
accompanied by a deeper, lingering bitter note.
The fruit is a popular breakfast food and is also
 x

juiced for soft drinks. The major producers

of grapefruit include China, the United States
and Mexico.
The chemical components ofthe essential oil
in grapefruit include alpha-pinene, sabinene,
myrcene, limonene, linalool and citronellal,
among others. In gin production, the peels of
both white and pink grapefruits are commonly
used. White grapefruit peel adds a zesty dryness,
while pink grapefruit peel typically addsa
125
complex zestiness witha more bittersweet floral
note. Examples of gins made using grapefruit as
a botanical include Beefeater Crown Jewel, East
London Liquor Company Batch 1 Gin, and Sacred
Pink Grapefruit Gin.

SEE ALSO Green Chartreuse | cockranivcreptent

ABV p13
Botanicals p39
Macerationp/55
Green Chartreuse isa key ingredient in various
The Last Wordp222 gin cocktails, including the Last Word and
the Bijou. A herbal liqueur bottled at 55% ABV,
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A,
itis made froma selection of 130 botanicals,
including various herbs, spices, leaves, seeds and
roots. Following the maceration of botanicals
and distillation, the distillate is infused witha
further selection of plants; it is this final process
that gives the drinkits distinctive green colour.
In 1605, the monks ata Chartreuse monastery in
Vauvert, France, receiveda recipe for an “elixir
of long life” from Francois-Annibal d’Estrées.
The manuscript was complex and it was only in
- 1737 at the Grande Chartreuse monastery in
Grenoble, that a monk formed it intoa practical
recipe. In 1764, the recipe was again adapted to
create the liqueur that would ultimately become
Green Chartreuse. A sister liqueur, Yellow
Chartreuse, was created in 1838. It is bottled at
40% ABV, has aless intense, sweeter character
and is coloured with saffron. Although the monks

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 have aneventful history, including having to
leave France following the French Revolution,
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* they retained the recipes for their liqueurs and

their manufacture moved to the town of Voiron,
France, in 1935. The monks continue to produce
them today and the liqueur sales fund the
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running of the monastery.

iearee Greenall’s
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| sxsx>
ABV prs sabbatical
eee
Almond p/5
naeien sacs A British gin brand that traces its history
Bombay Spirits Company
p33 back to Warrington, Cheshire, in 1761. They
Botanical recipe p36 producea London dry gin, bottled at 37.5%
NS ABV, using Thomas Dakin’s recipe from 1761.
Citrus p58
Contract distillers
p67 Botanicals include juniper, coriander, lemon
Coriander seed p68 peel, cassia bark, angelica root and ground bitter
Fruit ginp92
almonds. The company that owns Greenall’s,
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Gin house p07
Juniper (common) 7/37 G&J Distillers, bought the distillery in 1870
Lemon p/43 and expanded operations during the early
pandos gin zie 20th century. They are an established contract
Sloe ginp208
distillers and produce own-label gin fora
number of supermarkets. They also produced
gin for The Bombay Spirits Company until
2014. The distillery underwent a renovation
that was completed in 2017. In addition to their
flagship gin, Greenall’s produce, under their
own brand, asloe gin, Greenall’s Wild Berry
(flavoured with blackberries and raspberries)
and Greenall’s Extra Reserve (with more of
acitrus flavour profile, using the addition
of orange and grapefruit to the botanical
recipe). Greenall’s also ownand produce the
premium gin brands of Bloom, Berkeley Square,
Opihrand Thomas Dakin.
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SEE ALSO &x
s Hendrick’s | sxx»
ABV pi3
Angelica root p79 .
&
One of the new wave of gin brands, produced
Botanicalrecipe p36
Botanicals p39
8
4 in Scotland since 1999 and owned by whisky
Caraway p46
Carter head stillps0
. producer William Grant & Sons. Ithasan
Chamomile p53
apothecary-style, dark brown glass bottleanda
Contemporary ginp65 distinctive flavour profile as they add essences of
Coriander seed p68 rose and cucumber after distillation (as such it is
Cubeb berries p73
nota London dry gin). These are added to their
Cucumber p74
Elder p87 base gin, which has a botanical recipe including
Garnishes p93 juniper, coriander, angelica root, orris root,
Juniper (common) p/37 lemon peel, orange peel, cubeb berries, caraway
Lemonyp/43
London ginp/5/
seeds, elderflower, chamomile and yarrow. The
Orris rootp/74 gin’s traditional botanicals are distilled ina pot
Pot distillation 7&2 still while the lighter, more delicate botanicals
Quininated ginp/8&5
are distilled ina Carterhead still. Hendrick’s
Rose p192
Sweet orange p2/16 have successfully marketed their gin using the
Wormwood p239 concept of British eccentricity and encourage
drinkers to pair their gin witha fresh cucumber
garnish. The gin is available internationally at
avariety of strengths: 41.4% ABV in the United
Kingdomand 44% ABV in Europe and the United
States. In 2017, Hendrick’s released Hendrick’s
Orbium, a quininated gin with additional
extracts ofwormwood and blue lotus blossom.

SEE ALSO Herbal | FLAVOUR PROFILE

Alpine ginpl6é
Botanicals p39
Gins witha herbal flavour profile have lots
Flavour profiles p87
of leafy and herbaceous notes. This could be
 Gin & Tonic p/04 from the use of fresh or dried herbs as botanicals,
Martinip/59 with typical examples including rosemary,
Mint p164
basil, mint and sage. They often tend to be more
Negronip/68
Rosemary p/92 resinous in flavour, with notes of pine, spruce
Sage p197 or cedar. These gins are usually quite intense
Spicy p212 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK
andare particularly popular in Alpine countries
and central Europe. Like spicy gins, herbal
gins work exceedingly well alongside the strong
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flavours of aNegroni. They also work wellin
pre-dinner drinks suchas the Martinior Gin
H & Tonic. Examples of herbal gins include
ies Boodles, St George Terroir, Berkeley Square
and Gin Mare.

SEE ALSO Herno | sxaxp

ABV p13
Aged ginp/5
Black peppercornp29
Adistillery and award-winning gin producer
Botanicals p39 located in the village of Dala, close to the City
Cassiabarkp50 of Harnésand in Angermanland, Sweden.
Coriander seed p68
The distillery was founded in 2011 by Jon
Fruit ging 92
Juniper (common) 7137 Hillgren. The first Herné product, a London
Juniper (other species) 9/38 dry gin, was launched on 1 December 2012
Lemon p/43
using juniper, coriander seed, lemon peel,
London ginp15/
Meadowsweet p/63 lingon berries, meadowsweet, black pepper,
Navy strength giny/67 cassiaand fresh vanillaas botanicals. Since
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Old Tom gin pi7Z
opening, Hern6 have won an array of awards
Sipping gin p207
Sloe ginp208 at international competitions, including the
Terroirp22/ Contemporary Gin Trophy in 2015, Gin & Tonic
Vanillap234 Trophy, and Gin Producer of the year in 2016 at
<
the International Wine and Spirits Competition
(IWSC), as wellasa large selection of gold
medals from other competitions, including
a Double Gold at the San Francisco World Spirits
Competition. Other products in the Herné range
includea navy strength gin (bottled at 57% ABV),
an Old Tom gin, High Coast Terroir Ginand
Hern6 Juniper Cask Gin, a gin aged inabarrel
made from juniper wood.

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HERNO GIN
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 Ox

SEE ALSO Hollands gin |os svi

Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
Genever p94 Popular in the middle of the 19th century,
Ginniverpl19 Hollands gin is one of the three gins called for in
Juniper (common) 7/37
TheBar-Tender’s Guide or How to Mix Drinks by
Old Tom ginpi7Z
Jerry Thomas (1862), the other two being dry gin
and Old Tom gin. Hollands gin is closely related
to Dutch Genever, but isa style of gininits own
right. Like Genever, Hollands gincontainsa
reasonable amount of malt wine asa spirit base,
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& in addition to the neutral spirit base that is also

usedindry gin. Unlike bothdry gin and Genever,

the range of botanicals used to flavour Hollands
gin was historically limited, with distillers often
using just juniper or juniper and one or two
botanicals, one of which would often bea kind
of hop. After the Second World War, popular
tastes turned to drier drinks, and the sweeter
and maltier flavours of Old Tom and Hollands gin
fell out of fashion. Hollands gin was resurrected
in 2013 when New York Distilling of Brooklyn,
New York, worked with drinks historian David
Wondrich to create a New-Netherland Gin,
which is a Hollands gin made usinga rye whiskey
base, juniper and cluster hops. In 2017, Golden
Moonand That Boutique-y Gin Company
released Frontier Gin, a gin based on an 18th-
century recipe for a Hollands gin.

SEE ALSO Honey | soraxicar

Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
In gin production, honey is sometimes added
Old Tom ginp/7Z
Terroirpy22/ to distillation runs to improve the mouthfeel
of the gin; it also addsa slightly floral and
sometimes woody sweetness. Honey will often
take on the characteristics of the surrounding
flora, for example pine blossom or orange
blossom, which is a useful complement for
ginmakingas many of these plants are also
 used as botanicals. As honey can be made in
urban environments, it isan obvious choice
for distilleries that want to add some terroir
0000000000000
to their gin. Examples include Dodd’s Gin,
who use London honey, and Queen’s Courage
Old Tom Gin that uses New York honey. Honey
can also be fermented into mead, which can
then be turned intoa base spirit from which to
make gin. Such is the case with the New York gin,
Comb 9. Some gins add honey post-distillation
toadd flavour, suchas Barr Hill Gin. Itis also
ep used as asweetener for some Old Tom gins.

SEE ALSO Hybrid gin |ox sri

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Angelicarootpl9
Base spirit p27
This refers to a gin that is combined with other
Botanicals p39 spirits. It is usually produced because the
distillery wishes to introduce some spirit that
was distilled in-house to enhance the gin’s
flavour, but there are some guidelines that must
be followed. Inthe European Union (EU), the
base spirit for gin must have been distilled to at
least 96% ABV. Ifthe distillery cannot do this
due to the limitations of their equipment, or if
the desired flavour of the base material would be
stripped out by distilling to 96% ABV, they could
not use their in-house base spirit and legally
call the final product gin within the EU. Also,
the cost of producing the distillate for all of the
gin’s base spirit in-house would be prohibitive.
One example ofa hybrid gin is Jinzu, made using
Neutral Grain Spirit (NGS) and the following
botanicals: juniper, coriander, angelica, yuzu
and cherry blossom. After distillation, distilled
sake is added. It is worth noting that ifthe sake
had been distilled to 96% ABV, as itis grain-
based, the difference between it and NGS would
be negligible; distilling sake to this high ABV
would strip out most of the flavours. Another
 example ofa hybrid gin is Ginabelle, a Spanish
gin that has the distillate of the mirabelle plum
added post-distillation. Using this distillate
as the base spirit would be both expensive and
could overpower the gin’s flavour.

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SEE ALSO < Ice | COCKTAILINGREDIENT
Bramble p39
DOOOLK
Gin & Tonic p104
Shaken/Shakingp207 Acrucial ingredient in almost all gindrinks,
ice is water in its solid state. When placed into
adrink, ice has acooling effect, primarilyasa
result ofabsorbing heat energy from the drink as
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it changes froma solid (ice) intoa liquid (water);
in short, it cools as it melts. The cooling effect
of radiation from the ice is much lower, which
is why reusable ice cubes are not as effective at
keepinga drink coolas real ice. The presence of
alot ofice ina glass will help to keep the drink
cooler for longer, delaying melting and dilution.
A Gin & Tonic witha single ice cube is a fast-track
toawarm, watery drink. When shakingagin
drink with ice, the ice cubes will hit one another
and small shards will break offand melt, thus
cooling and diluting the drink. The ice used
in long drinks is usually in the form of cubes,
produced using trays or purchased in bags.
Cracked or crushed ice consists of small shards
of ice. Given that these melt quickly due to their
. smaller size and greater ratio of surface area to
volume, they are less suitable for use inshaken
or long drinks. They are best reserved for drinks
served frappe, suchas the Bramble.
SEE ALSO Juniper COMMON) jox:e2205 commen |
Botanicals
p39
BOTANICAL
British juniper p40
Juniper (other species) p738
Limonene p/48 Common juniper is a conifer which provides the
Pinene p177 one essential ingredient of gin: juniper berries.
Without them, aspirit just isn’t gin. Indeed,
within the European Union, regulation states
that fora spirit to be labelled as “gin”, it must be
made using at least some of the species Juniperus
communis. The berries are not actually berries,
but fleshy seed cones and provide gin with its
green, piney and resinous flavour. Amember of
the Cupressaceae family, juniper trees or shrubs
take three or four years to grow to maturity,
followed by a further two or three years before
the berries are ready to be harvested. The plant
is native to the United Kingdom and most of
continental Europe, and is found growing across
the northern hemisphere. Common juniper
has been used since the time of the Ancient
Romans and Greeks, when it hada variety of
medicinal uses, including treating toothache
and headaches. It was also used to aid digestion.
Common juniper was one of the many spices used
toward off the Black Deathin the 14th century.
“Plague doctors” wore masks with long beaks
full of juniper berries and other botanicals; they
believed that these masked unpleasant smells
and stopped the spread of the disease. It worked
toadegree, not because the disease spread

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 through the air, but because it was spread by fleas
and juniper is an effective, natural flea repellent.
In gin production, the ripe, purple berries of
juniper are used, typically whole, but sometimes
they are milled or gently crushed to release more
oils. Chemical compounds contained within
common juniper include alpha- and beta-pinene,
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SEE ALSO Juniper (other species) jexzecevs se. |

Botanicals p39 BOTANICAL
Classic/Juniper-forwardp58
Juniper (common) 7/37
In addition to common juniper, there is asmall
selection ofother species that can be used in gin.
However, in order to be labelled and sold as
“gin” within the European Union, the distiller
must use at least some Juniperus communis.
Alligator juniper (Juniperus deppeana) is
also knownas checkerbark juniper due to the
plant’s distinctive bark, which has acheckered
pattern similar to alligator skin. This variety is
native to North America, in particular central
and northern Mexico and the southwest of the
United States, including states suchas Texas,
Arizonaand New Mexico. When distilledasagin
botanical, alligator juniper has a sappy, cedar
nose andavery oily, green, vegetal flavour with
cedar and pine notes. Alligator juniper is used in
District Distilling Company’s Checkerbark Gin.
Pinchot juniper (Juniperus pinchotit) is also
knownas red berry juniper due to the orange-red
colour of the seed cones (berries). This variety is
named after the first Chief of the United States
Forest Service, Gifford Pinchot. This juniper is
native to northern and central Texas and parts
of Mexico. When used in gin, Pinchot juniper
provides jammy, floral aromas anda mix of
woody pepper and sweet baking spice notes
on the palate.

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 Ashe juniper (Juniperus ashe?) is also
knownas blueberry juniper and post or
mountain cedar. This variety is much taller than
common juniper, growing up to 15m (S0ft) tall.
It is native to Texas, Oklahoma, Arkansas and
Missouri, and also grows in parts of northern
Mexico. The wood is often used to make fence
posts and telegraph and telephone poles, hence
the name post cedar. In gin, Ashe juniper is
extremely piney with lots of woody, resinous
notes typical ofjuniper. It is cleanand crisp, but
very strong and so should only be used sparingly.
Western juniper (Juniperus occidentalis) is
also knownas sierra juniper; this is the tallest
ofall varieties of juniper species, growing up
to 28m (92ft) in height. The trees are native to
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psthe western mountains of the United States,
including the states of California, Nevada,
Oregon, Idaho and Washington. The trees
growat high altitudes up to 3,000m (10,000ft)
in elevation. The Bennett juniper, the largest
juniper tree inthe USA withadiameter of 3.8m
(12%4ft), isaspecimen of,Juniperus occidentalis.
It is located within the Stanislaus National
Forest in northern California. It is estimated to
be more than three thousand years old. When
used in gin, distilled western juniper has alight
hint of pine and tropical fruit, as wellas creamy
vanilla-oak and cinnamon spice notes. It is quite
light and easily overpowered. Cascade Mountain
gin uses Juniperus occidentalis as its primary
juniper variety, but the ginis flavoured through
infusion rather than distillation.

Juniper-forward | FLAVOUR PROFILE

Pr rrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrritrrr reer errr

See “Classic/Juniper-forward”.

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SEE ALSO : Key lime erreurs xaveanrieronra | sovanteat
Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39 ;
Gin Rickey pZ77 Also knownas the West Indian, Mexican or
Lime (Persian) p148 bartenders’ lime, Key lime is used asa botanical
Makrutlimep/56 in gin production. The fruit is smaller and
Rangpurlimep/87
rounder than the Persian lime, the rind is
thinner and more aromatic, and the fruit itself
is more acidic. The plant is native to Southeast
Asia, where it is a natural hybrid of the biasong
(Citrus micrantha) and citron (Citrus medica).
The fruit was introduced to the Mediterranean
via the Middle East, before being exported for
cultivation in the Caribbean, Floridaand the
Americas. Today, the Key lime is largely grown
inthe USA (California, Floridaand Texas), in
Mexico and Central and South America. When
used in distilling gin, the peel is more intense
and dryer than that of Persian lime, with less
ofa floral quality. As such, it can be used more
sparingly. Key limes have awider use indrinks
suchas the Mojito, Daiquiriand Rickey, andare
the key ingredient ina Key lime pie. Anexample
ofa gin using Key limeasa botanical is Chilgrove
Dry Gin.
 SEE ALSO Lavender LAVANDULA ANGUSTIFOLIA | BOTANICAL

Botanicals
p39
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Flavour profiles 787
Floral p87 Lavenders are flowering plants and members of
Signature botanical ginp202 the Lamiaceae family, alongside mint and basil.
The most common form of lavender is English
lavender (Lavandula angustifolia), which
despite the name, is native to the Mediterranean
countries of Spain, France and Italy. Lavender i
flowers are often dried and used in herbal 143
|
medicine and teas. Lavender is alsousedina
variety of food and drink, suchas cakes, biscuits
and desserts, as wellas soft drinks. Indistilling
gin, lavender is used in small quantities due
to its high oil content and strong flavour. It
adds a fragrant floral note witha hint of pine
resin which, in balanced amounts, is a great
accompaniment to gin. In some instances,
lavender is used in post-distillation infusions or
as the flavour ofa signature botanical gin. Gins
using lavender asa botanical include Campfire
Gin, East London Liquor Company Premium Gin
Batch No.2 and FEW American Gin.

SEEALSO Lemon CITRUS

X LIMON | BOTANICAL

Bitterorangep26 GG wassscssseneevsnesenenenerersseseerenenenesenssvenensnensnseneccusnenenecscnsnsnsasessnensacsesesscacins
Botanicals p39 : .
:
Garnishes p93
The most
;
important
;
and popular
;
citrus
; ;
Gin & Tonic p104 botanical, not just because of its use in making
_ Lime (Persian) 2/48 gin, but because it is alsoacommon garnish
choice and key ingredient in many cocktails.
The lemon isa hybrid of bitter orange (Citrus
 <O<

x aurantium) and citron (Citrus medica) and

likely originated from northeast India or China.
Most lemons commonly available at grocers and
supermarkets are the Eureka lemon, which has
been cultivated so that it flowers throughout
the year. Today, lemons are grown in Italy and
across the Mediterranean region after being
introduced there nearly two thousand years
ago. There are also lemon groves in Floridaand
California in the United States. The juice of the
lemon is tart and contains around five percent
citric acid. It is commonly used to flavour food
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o,
and soft drinks, as wellas gin cocktails suchas
> the Aviation and White Lady. The peel is full of
pockets of essential oil and it is this oil that makes
its way into gin during the process of distillation.
Between the peel and the flesh of the fruitisa
thin layer of white pith, which is bitter and, if
used to make gin, adds asomewhat unpleasant
flavour. Wedges or wheels of lemonare acommon
garnish for Gin & Tonics, especially inthe UK.

SEE ALSO LeEMONYASS erusococon crrearvs | BOTANICAL

Bombay Spirits Company p33
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39 Also knownas cymbopogon or oil grass,
Citrus p58 lemongrass is a member of the grass family
Ginger p/1/4 and is native to South and Southeast Asia. It is
classified as a herb and is often sold asa fleshy
stalk. Itis commonly used in Asian cuisine and
is often paired with chicken. It imparts a lemony
and lightly fragrant, spiced flavour. Lemongrass
isa popular flavour in drinks, where it is often
combined with ginger. It is used in various soft
drinks as well as tonic waters and herbal teas.
Lemongrass contains chemical compounds such
as citral, myrcene, citronellal and citronellol.
In gin, lemongrass is used as botha distilled
botanical anda botanical introduced by post-
distillation infusion, suchas in Butler’s Gin.
 Lemongrass adds a light lemony citrus note,
combined witha ginger-like spice and light,
aromatic floral quality. It adds a complexity that
» works well with other citrus and spice botanicals.
Other examples of gins made using lemongrass
, include Bombay Sapphire East and Le Tribute.

SEE ALSO LICOLiCe LOO circraenz4 crane | vorANicaL

Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Old Tom giny/77 A plant from the peaand bean family, native to
Eurasia, North Africa and Asia Pacific, usedasa
gin botanical. Today, it is grown in Russia, Spain
and the Middle East. The underground stems
(roots) of the plant are the primary reason for
cultivation; these are dried before being used.
Licorice root typically comes in chip, powder or
whole (stick) form and, once dried, looks a lot like
thin twigs. The root contains acompound called 147

glycyrrhizin, which is 30—50 times sweeter than

sugar. Licorice is a popular flavouring for sweets
and confectionary, where licorice extract is
used; this is obtained by boiling licorice root in
water. In distilling, licorice is most commonly
used in its powdered form. It adds sweetness and
asmooth mouthfeel to gin. This botanical isa key
ingredient in many botanically sweetened Old
Tom gins suchas Jensen’s Old Tom.

SEE ALSO Lillet

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Bitter orange p26
Botanicals p39
A fortified wine aperitif produced in Bordeaux,
Dry vermouthpso
Sweet orangep2/6 France. It was first created in 1872 by Raymond
Macerationp155 and Paul Lillet. Lillet Blanc (previously known
Quinine p185
as Kina Lillet) is produced by macerating
Vesper p237
Wormwood p239 botanicals in alcohol, including sweet oranges,
bitter orange from Haitiand quinine from South
America. After the infusion stage, a blend of
various wines is added. Finally, the now-fortified
wine is stored in barrels for anumber of months,
 which allows the product to mellow. In 1962,
» Lillet released Lillet Rouge, a red-wine version
© ofthe original aperitif. In 2011, Lillet Rosé was
2 launched. The company also sells two Jean de
% Lillet Reserves, ared anda white variety. While
; not technically a vermouth because it doesn’t
> contain wormwood, Lillet Blanc is often used as
> asubstitute for one, most famously in the Vesper
© cocktail from Ian Fleming’s Casino Royaleandin
the Corpse Reviver #2.

SEE ALSO Lime (Persian) CITRUS

X LATIFOLIA | BOTANICAL

Botanicals
p39
Garnishes p93
Key lime p/41
The lime isa green citrus fruit which is typically
Lemonyp/43 smaller and tarter thanalemon and canbe
Makrutlimep156 used asa botanical to flavour gin. Persian lime
Rangpur limep/87
(Citrus x latifolia),also knownasa Tahitilime,
148 isa hybrid of Key lime and lemon. It is the best-
selling variety of lime. It is thought to have been
originally cultivated in modern-day Iran, before
being introduced to the Mediterranean and, by
> the 18thcentury, Brazil. In 1824, it was exported
to Australia, then Tahiti, California and, by
1883, Florida. The fruit is sweeter and larger
than the Mexican Key lime and is commonly
used in food and drink. Gins using Persian
lime as abotanical include Tarquin’s Gin,
Gilpin’s Westmorland Extra Dry Ginand Bass
& Flinders’ Soft & Smooth Gin.

SEE ALSO Limonene | ciemicarcomounn

Bitter orange p26
Cardamomp49
Coriander seed p68 Anaturally occurring essential oil commonly
Grapefruit p124 found in the peels of citrus fruits. There are
Juniper (common) p/37
two main isomers (chemical compounds):
Lemon p/43
Lime (Persian) p/48
D-limonene and L-limonene. Both forms are
Mintp164 insoluble in water, but miscible in alcohol. The
Sweet orange 2/6 most common of the two isomers, D-limonene,
has astrong aroma oforanges. While itis possible
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g to produce it synthetically, natural sources are so

cheap and abundant that these are usually used.
The isomer is extracted by the use of centrifuge
@
8 or steam distillation. Sources of D-limonene
Q include lemons, limes, oranges, mandarins
2 and grapefruits. While the juices of the fruits
x do contain d-limonene, the isomer is most
% concentrated in the rind. It canalso be found
injuniper, coriander and cardamom.
L-limonene is commonly found in pine trees and
:2 has aturpentine-like scent. Like D-limonene, it
3& is anaturally based solvent and is often used in
non-toxic cleaning products. Both isomers can
also be used as natural insecticides. L-limonene
can be found in pine needles and cones, including
juniper berries, as wellas mint.

150 SEE ALSO Linalool | cxestca: comrouns

Botanicals
p39
Cassiabarkp50
Cinnamonp57
Anaturally occurring chemical compound found
Coriander seed p68 in more than two hundred species of plant from
Lavender p/43 many different areas around the world. There
Lemon p/43
are two main types: R-linalool has a sweet, floral
Mint p64
Rosemary p/92 lavender and candied citrus character, while
Sage p197 S-linalool has a woodier, spicier character with
a touch of hops. These types of linalool are found
in Lamiaceae suchas lavender, mint, basil,
sage and rosemary, as well as Lauraceae such
as cinnamon, cassia, bay laurel anda variety of
citrus fruits, in particular lemon and tangerine.
It also occurs naturally in tea, coffee, hops,
peach, plum and pineapple. One of the most
prevalent sources of R-linalool in gin production
is coriander seed, with the essential oils of some
high-quality varieties comprising at least 60
percent of this single chemical compound. Some
gin experts suggest that the soapiness sometimes
found in gin is due to the excessive extraction of
linalool from this botanical.
SEE ALSO London cut |»xooverioy
ABV p13 ,
Botanical
cuts p35
London gin p/5/ Aterm used to describe London gins that are
distilled in one ofthe 33 districts that make up
Greater London, which are represented by the
London Assembly and Mayor of London. The
term originated from the fact that, although
London is included in the term “London gin”,
spirits adhering to that regulation and eligible
to be labelled as such do not have to be made in
London. It should be noted, however, that having
a designation based on where a gin is bottled
is problematic and would exclude a number of
historic and noteworthy brands. The “cut” was at
one time thought to refer to the process of cutting
with water — also knownas “proofing”. In the
present day, the “cut” refers to the botanical cuts
that a distiller takes when they make a gin, so the
term “London cut” is another way of saying that
the gin is distilled in London. Despite various
attempts to create a co-ordinated approach
to “London cut” among eligible distillers and
brands, the termcurrently remains something
that individual distilleries use voluntarily.
Current examples include Knockeen Hills,
Ancient Mariner and Beefeater 24.

SEE ALSO London gin | «ssi

ABV p13
Classic ginp6Z
Commonly referred to as Londondry gin,
Juniper (common) p/37
Londoncutp/51 London gin isa legally protected category of
Transatlantic ginp228 gin, defined by production technique rather
than whether the gin is made in London or not.
The specific rules are laid out in EU regulation
110/2008. The regulation states that London gin
must be made from ethyl alcohol ofagricultural
origin (the base spirit must be distilled to at
least 96% ABV soit cannot be produced solely
through use ofa pot still). The gin distillate that

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 is produced asa result of redistilling must not be
lower than 70% ABV. The gin must be flavoured
with Juniperus communis and that juniper should
be the “predominant” flavour. Only water or
alcohol can be added after distillation, and the
minimum alcoholic strength is 37.5% ABV.
Unofficially, “London gin” is sometimes used as
away to describe a traditional style of gin.

Long Pedlar | cocxran

See “Bitter lemon”.

SEE ALSO Louching | »xopver:0n

ABV p13
Botanicals
p39
Filtration
p83
Louching, also known as “spontaneous
Juniper (common) 7/37 emulsification”, is a reaction that some spirits L
Macerationp/55 have when water is added; asa result, the liquid 153

turns opaque and milky or cloudy. It isa key

factor in the preparation of absinthe and pastis,
which are both traditionally diluted until
almost allofthe spirit has louched, sometimes
leaving a single, thin band of transparent liquid
at the top. Louching is caused by the presence
of hydrophobic essential oils, which are soluble
in alcohol, but not in water. Ifagin hasan
overconcentration of these botanical oils, it may
louche. These heavy oils precipitate or “settle
out” as the concentration of alcohol is reduced by
adding water, turning the liquid cloudy. While
it is usually anise oil that causes absinthe, pastis
and ouzo to go cloudy, in gin it is more likely to
be juniper or citrus oils.
In the world of gin production, there is
some discussion as to whether or not louching
constitutes a flaw in gin, with some more
established and traditional distillers raising an
eyebrowat it, and some of the newer entrants
being more open to it. There is very limited

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 evidence that the consumer cares either way.
Louching can be avoided using a number of
techniques: chill filtering the final gin (but this
may strip out other flavours and aromas); the
addition of neutral spirit after distillation, which
helps to reduce the concentration of botanical
oils; reduction of the quantity of botanicals used;
or reduction of the length of time during which
botanicals are macerated.

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154
SEE ALSO Maceration \ Pkobverrow
ABV p73
Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39 The process of steeping botanicals in alcohol
Compounded ginp64 » prior to distillation. The time spent macerating
Rectification 7187 Be to draw out the essential oils inthe i
botanicals so that they are easier to capture
_ during the process of distillation. The length of
time taken for maceration varies considerably
by botanical recipe and distillery - anything
from an hour or two up to 36 hours. The duration
of the maceration process affects the degree of
extraction, but for some botanicals an overly long
maceration can also lead to more bitter and less
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, desirable flavours being released. The structural
integrity of the botanicals themselves canalso
break down if left for too long.
There are two types maceration: cold
maceration, where the botanicals are added to
spirit at room temperature; and hot maceration,
also knownas digestion, where the alcohol and
botanicals are gently heated, usually to 30—40°C
(86-104°F), either ina dedicated vessel orin
the pot of the still, prior to distillation. The
heat helps to extract more of the botanical oils.
The alcoholic strength of the spirit used for
maceration is another important factor. Ifthe
oils in the botanicals are only soluble in alcohol,
the higher the ABV of the spirit, the faster the
extraction. For botanicals soluble in water, a high
ABV can overextract the flavours with a negative
 impact on the final product. As such, maceration
isa process specific toa distiller’s botanical
recipe and must be undertaken with care.

SEE ALSO Makrut lime eres wrsrevx | noranicar

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
Originating in Southeast Asia, this lime is green
Gin & Tonic p104
Key lime p/47 witha rough, bumpy, almost wart-like exterior.
Lime (Persian) 148 The rind is aromatic witha slight astringency
Rangpur limey187
and, while it can be used to flavour gin, it is more
common for the leaves of the plant to be used.
These are very aromatic and slightly floralin
flavour, with aspects of both lemon and lime. The
leaves also make a fragrant garnish toaGin&
Tonic. Makrut limes are sometimes knownas
“kaffir limes”, although this term has negative
connotations and so is best avoided. Gins
featuring makrut lime leaves include Beefeater
London Market, Berkeley Square, Ginraw and
Wicked Wolf.

SEE ALSO Martin Miller’s | sxx»

ABV p13
Aged ginp15
Angelica root p79
Owned by the Westbourne Spirits Company,
Botanical recipe p36 this gin was launched in 1999 by Martin Miller,
Botanicals p39 David Bromige and Andreas Versteegh, who
Cassiabark p50
Coriander seed p68
initially found their fame writing a series of
Cucumber p74 pricing guides on antiques. The concept behind
Juniper (common) p/37 the gin was created in the summer of 1998, when
Lemon p/43
Miller decided that he was going to create his
Licorice root 147
Lime (Persian) 148 own gin, one where “time and money was no
Nutmegp/l68 object”. The gin is made at Langley Distillery
Orris root p174
in Birmingham in the UK using botanicals
Sweet orange p216
including juniper, coriander, angelica, orange,
lemon, lime, orris, cassia, nutmeg and licorice.
The gin distillate is then shipped to Iceland,
where it is proofed with Icelandic spring water
and cucumber distillate is added. A higher-
strength version of the gin, Westbourne

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Strength, which hasa slight tweak to the original

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botanical recipe, is bottled at 45.2% ABV. In
2016, Miller’s released an aged gin, 9 Moons,
which is matured ina single ex-Bourbon cask for
ninemonths. _

SEE ALSO Martini |cockran

Dirty Martinip75
Dry vermouthpéso
Garnishes p93 Asimple cocktail, but perhaps one of the most
Glassware p/19 controversial; the Martiniis a mix of gin
Icepl35 and vermouth. The name covers a range of
Martini gadgets p/60
drinks from the Sweet Martini (ginand sweet
vermouth), to the Perfect Martini (equal parts
gin and dry vermouth), but the most prevalent
is the Dry Martini. The origins of the Martini
are rooted in those of the Manhattan, which
was invented in New York during the 1860s or
1870s. By 1884, avariation on the drink called
the Martinez appeared in O H Byron’s Zhe M
ashe
Modern Bartenders Guide, described as “Same zr
as the Manhattan but you substitute the gin for
whisky”. In this book, the Manhattan #1 is two
parts French (ry) vermouth to one part whisky.
Over time, the drink gradually became drier
until the first recipe for the Dry Martiniwas
published in the early 20th century. At the same
time, Martiniand Rossi, a brand of vermouth,
was gaining in popularity and so it seems likely
that the brand name became attached to the
drink that called for it. Turn-of-the-century
advertising from Martiniand Rossi talks of it
being the Martini vermouth for the Martini
cocktail. As tastes changed, the Martini cocktail
grew progressively more dry, to the point that,
by the 1940s, it was not uncommon for people to
simply rinse the glass with vermouth or even to
merely bowin the direction of France; such was
the case in the legend of how Winston Churchill
enjoyed his Martinis.

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 Most Martinis are served “straight-up”
(without ice), but during the 1950s it became
- popular to drink “Martini-on-the-Rocks”,
where the ingredients were added along with ice
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<>
toatumbler glass and served. While this serving
506 is unusual in the 21st century, it is still popular
insmaller towns inthe American Mid-West.

DRY MARTINI RECIPE

50ML / 2FLOz / DRY GIN

10mu / %FLoz / DRY VERMOUTH
OLIVE OR LEMON TWIST,TO GARNISH

Place the ingredients in a mixing glass filled with ice and

stir for 30-60 seconds. Strain into a chilled Martini glass
and garnish with an olive or lemon twist.

SEE ALSO Martini gadgets | s:sroxv

Dry vermouthpés0O
M Martinip/59 DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHL
During the cocktail revival ofthe 1950s and
160 —
1960s, anumber of innovative gizmos and bar
accessories were created. Most were primarily
concerned with adding miniscule amounts of
POOOCOOOO

dry vermouth toadrink. Examples include the

Martini spike, a silver-plated syringe made by
Gorham Co. Dry vermouth would be drawn into
the syringe and then could be added in small
portions to the cocktail. Martiniscales consisted
of two metal beakers connected by a pivoted bar,
like old-fashioned scales. The pivot could be
moved, depending on the desired ratio of gin
to vermouth. The beakers were then filled with
gin and vermouth, and when the scales balanced,
you had the measures for the perfect Martini.
Martinistones were small chips of stone
designed to be soaked in vermouth and stored
in the refrigerator. The stones could then be
added directly toa cocktail glass of chilled gin.
They were made by Podan & Co. in 1963. The
Martini tester was an answer toa question that
 perhaps no one asked: howcan I check that the
WIDVDODVSPYV

medium-dry Martini I ordered at the bar is

really medium-dry? The solution: the Thexton
Gourmet Martini Tester. This was asmall
pipette containing three coloured plastic balls.
By sampling the drink, the specific gravity of the
drink, as illustrated by the configuration of the
20OO000OOOOOOHOHOHOHOHOHL
balls, identified it as regular, dry or extradry.

Maturation | pxopucriox
OOCOCOOOK

See “Aged gin”.

SEE ALSO Meadowsweeet eii:rexour4 vimania | soranteat

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
Hendrick’s p/27
Also knownas bridewort or lady of the meadow,
meadowsweet is a flowering herb in the same
family as rose, rosaceae, and can be used as
a gin botanical. It is native to Europe and 163
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO”’
western Asia, but has also been introduced and
OOOOnow grows wild in North America. In Sweden,
meadowsweet is commonly used as an ingredient
to flavour vodka or other spirits. The alcohol is
usually infused with the flowers, which give the
liquid their aromaand flavour, as wellas giving
italight straw colour. The flavour is lightly
sweet, with hay and grass notes, and is somewhat
reminiscent of the bison-grass vodkas of Eastern
Europe suchas Zubréwka. Historically in the
UK, meadowsweet was used at weddings; it
was oftena part of bridal garlands and was
thrown over the bride and groomasa precursor
to confetti. In gin production, itis usedasa
botanical in products suchas Hendrick’s, The
Botanist and Herné. In 2010 Hendrick’s replaced
the meadowsweet in their botanical recipe with
yarrow, as meadowsweet was removed from the
“generally recognizedas safe list” by the Food
and Drug Administration of the United States.

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 e
SEE ALSO Mint MENTHA SP. | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals p39
- Acollection of aromatic plants in the Lamiaceae
Flavour profiles 787
Macerationp/55 family, several of which are used as gin
Peppermint p77 g botanicals. In addition to the commonly used
& -

Spearmint p227
2 peppermint and spearmint, other types of
$ mint used in gin production include apple mint
2
Q
g (Mentha suaveolens) and water mint (Mentha
g
& aquatica). When distilling mint leaves to make
Ss
& gin, the botanical adds an aromatic leafiness
&
Q and slight coolness offlavour. It needs to be used
A

x
g sparingly, as mint can easily overpower the gin’s
flavour profile. Fresh leaves are susceptible to
being cooked and stewed when pot distilled,
which releases bitter, vegetal flavours. One way
around this is to first steep the mint in alcohol
and then filter and distil this mint-infused spirit;
this avoids exposing the leaves to heat. Gins using
164
mint asa botanical include The Botanist and Dry
Fly Gin.

SEE ALSO Myrtle SYZYCIUM, MYRICA, BACKHOUSIA SP. | BOTANICAL

Anethole p76
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39
Also knownas myrtus, these flowering shrubs
Bush ginp43 belong to the Myrtaceae family and grow around
Licorice root p/47 the world. They adda grassy, woody flavour
witha little green bitterness when used in gin
production. Several myrtles are used. Anise
myrtle (Syzygium anisatum) isatalltree that
grows in the rainforests of the subtropical
regions of New South Wales, Australia. The
leaves have a strong character of aniseed due to
the presence of the organic compound anethole,
which is also found in anise, licorice and fennel.
When used as a gin botanical, this adds a sweet,
licorice-like flavour. Bog myrtle (lyrica gale),
also knownas sweetgale, isa small shrub that
grows in wet peat-like soil. During the 11th
century, before the introduction of hops, it was
 often added to beer to add bitterness. Cinnamon
myrtle Backhousia myrtifolia) isasmalltree
native to the rainforests of subtropical Australia.
The leaves have a spicy, cinnamon-like aroma.
It is often used in baked goods and desserts.
Lemon myrtle (Backhousia citriodora) is native
to Australia, in particular New South Wales and
southern Queensland. It has small, feathery
flowers. The leaves are used for various food
and drink applications, both in their fresh or
dried form. In gin, lemon myrtle addsa leafy
citrus note witha flavour reminiscent of across
between lemon and lime.

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 OOOO

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SEE ALSO Navy strength gin |as sri:

ABV p73
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39 Any gin bottled at 100% old British proof
Burrough’s p42 (57.15% ABV), although — for practicality —
Plymouth Ginp/78 anything between 57% and 58% ABV could be
considered to be navy strength or navy gin.
The alcoholic strength is the only criterion
against whicha gin is judged to be navy strength
or not. Tocreate a navy strength gin, some
distillers simply bottle their flagship gin at
a higher strength, by adding less water after
distillation. Others use a unique or modified
botanical recipe to produce a different flavour
profile. In the latter scenario, juniper and
citrus are often increased, and earthy floral
notes reduced. Navy strength gin not only has
a greater intensity of alcohol, but alsohasa
greater concentration of botanicals, making
fora more intense flavour. Navy gin originated
inthe Blackfriars Distillery in Plymouth,
where they started producing a 100% proof
gin for the Royal Navy in the 1850s. By 1855,
the distillery was producing more thana
thousand barrels of Navy gin per year. Between
1863 and the 1950s, Burrough’s Distillery
produced another navy gin, Senior Service,
for naval officers, in Deptford, London.

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SEE ALSO 2 Negroni | COCKTAIL

Camparip45
Ice pl35
* Anaperitif cocktail that is bright redin colour
Red vermouth
p/97
and consists of equal parts of gin, red vermouth
and Campari. The exact origins of the drinkare
uncertain, although there are two main versions
of the story. The most commonly accepted places
<><
the creation at acafé in Florence when Count
Camillo Negroni ordereda slight variation on
the Americano, a mix of red vermouth, Campari
and soda water. The Count is said to have been
drinkingan Americano when, in pursuit of
a stronger drink, requested the soda water
be replaced with gin. The Count was a dapper
man about town and the drink soon became
OCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOCK
fashionable with the social elite around the
world. Analternative story dates the drink back
to around 1891 and General Pascal Olivier Count
de Negroni. It was said to have been invented
by the General asacure for digestive issues.
He mixed it inan Officer’s Club and the drink
> caught on with officers because ofits flavour.
It then spread around the world. A popular
variation of the Negroni is the Boulevardier,
which replaces the gin with Bourbon whiskey.

NEGRONI RECIPE
25ML / %FLOZ / DRY GIN
25ML / %FLoz / RED VERMOUTH
25ML / %FLOz./ CAMPARI

Filla tumbler with ice, add the ingredients and stir.

Itis best to put the gin in first, otherwise ithas a tendency
to float on top of the cocktail, even when lightly stirred.

SEE ALSO Nutmeg MYRISTICA FRAGRANS | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals p39
The seed of the nutmeg tree, an evergreen tree
native to the Spice Islands (Maluku Islands) in
the Pacific, used as a botanical in gin production.
 > Nutmegcan be used either whole or ground
into a powder; the latter method of preparation
provides a larger surface areaand so the flavour
is more easily extracted. Nutmeg gives gina
lightly sweet spiciness and a touch of woodiness.
ADOOD

The nutmeg seed is contained inside ared

waxy aril (asort of netting), which is the spice
mace. Inthe 8thcentury, nutmeg wasa highly
prized commodity and was worth more than its
weight in gold. The earliest recreational recipe
for a juniper spirit
DOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK (gin), dating from 1495, is
highly flavoured with nutmeg. Inthe early 19th
century, the British, who were temporarily
in control of the Spice Islands, transplanted
nutmeg trees to Ceylon, Singapore and Sri
Lanka. Nutmeg is also used ina variety of herbal
liqueurs suchas Drambuie and Bénédictine, as
wellas to garnish drinks suchas Eggnogand the
Gin Alexander. Examples of gins using nutmeg
as a botanical include Broker’s Gin, Oxley Gin
170
and G’vine Floraison.
 OOOO

SEE ALSO Old Tom gin |ax sri

Base spiritp27 00000000000000000000000000
Botanicals p39
Licorice root p/47 Anold style of botanically intense and
Old Tom gin, Origins ofp773 sweetened gin that was first mentioned in 1812
Young Tomyp244 inanadvert inthe Northampton Mercury.
The style dates from a time before continuous
distillation when the base spirit was not as pure
and clean as it is today. As such, a strong mix of
botanicals and some sugar were added to smooth
out the rough spirit. There is evidence of both
botanically sweetened and sugar-sweetened
Old Tom gins. Inan 1802 handbook, the method
of sweetening gin is described as adding 35lb of cae
sugar to 130 gallons of gin, which is equivalent
to around 1 teaspoon of sugar per 100ml (3%fl 0z)
of gin. Despite these notes, there is no specific
mention of “Old Tom” in the entire book.
Botanically sweetened Old Tom gins are
sweetened with the addition of naturally
sweet botanicals, suchas licorice root.
Old Tom gin gained popularity until the
invention of continuous distillation, which
_ brought with it an improvement in the quality
of base spirit; gin no longer needed to be
sweetened. By the 1930s, Old Tom gin became
no more than sweetened gin and it disappeared
altogether in the late 1960s. The only product
that continued to be produced after the 1960s
was Golden Cock Old Tom Gin from Norway,
which was rarely exported.
 In 2007, with the renewed interest in classic
cocktails, some distillers resurrected Old Tom
gins. The first of these was the British distillery,
Hayman’s, run by the descendants of Beefeater’s
James Burrough. This was shortly followed
by Jensen’s Old Tom Gin, which is botanically
sweetened, and Ransom Old Tom Gin from
America, which is barrel-aged. Today, there
are more than 40 Old Tom gins made at
distilleries around the world. Cocktails made
using Old Tom gin include the Martinez,
Tuxedo and Tom Collins.

SEE ALSO Old Tom gin, origins of >| 1:s:0%.

Gin palace p/7Z
Old Tom giny/77
There is anumber ofstories that detail the
origins of the term “Old Tom gin”. One reference
from the 1823 Slang Dictionary of the Turf
suggests that the name comes fromacorruption
of “old tun”, which was aterm fora specific
quantity or barrel of gin. Analternative origin
story in Brewers’ Phrase and Fable from 1870 17300)
notes, “Old Tom. Thomas Norris, one of the men
employed in Messrs Hodges’ Distillery opened
a gin palace in Great Russell Street, Covent
Garden and called the gin concocted by Thomas
Chamberlain, one of the firm of Hodges, Old Tom
in compliment to his former master.” The road
was actually Russell Street in Covent Garden
and the gin palace was a public house called the
Northumberland Arms. All ofthe key players in
this story existed roughly around the time Old
Tom must have been created, although there is no
evidence that Norris worked with Chamberlain.
Another story tells ofa cat falling into a vat of
gin. This relates to the origin of the logo of one
particular gin company, Boord’s. Recalledin
Boord vs. Huddart in 1903, the plaintiffs recount
their inspiration for their logo, which they

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 : started usingin 1849. They even mention having
© been mocked at the time for using a cat and barrel
© ontheir bottles. The book Life and Unusual
© Adventures of Captain Dudley Bradstreet,
% published in 1775, is often incorrectly cited as the
: origin of the name. Given that neither the term
» “Old Tom gin” nor “Tom gin” appears in the text,
‘ itisimpossible for this to be the source.
<OOO>*

© Orange CITRUS SINENSIS | BOTANICAL

we PrPreeerrrrrrrrrrrr irre irre eereee

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2 See" “p;
Bitter orange, “ Sweet orange”.”
x

8 :
SEEALSO % Orris root IRIS ‘FLORENTINA’| BOTANICAL

Botanicals p39 2 Scasuusiedunacadesdvexscueauatevvaesecazevensdoutsbeedessavexethawdeads gammesousn sen teuseaender seteneaeee

Fixatives
p84
Martin Miller's p156 Generally considered as the collective term for
the dried and powdered roots of /ris germanica,
Tris pallida and Iris florentina, all flowering
plants from the family Iridaceae. In gin,
however, it is 7rzs Florentina’, or the Florentine
Iris, that is of particular interest. Orris root,
especially for distilling, is primarily sourced
from the south of France, northern Italy and
Morocco, although it can grow throughout the
Mediterranean. Orris root is rarely used for
its flavour in gin production, but it does add
an earthy sweetness with notes of violet and
raspberry. It is mostly prized for its fixative
qualities; orris root helps to reduce the volatility
of gin, binding the botanical flavours together
and helping the spirit to keep its flavour integrity
for longer. Orris root also has a long-established
use asa fixative in perfumery. Many gins use
orris root as a botanical, but those in which it
adds a noticeable character include Martin
Miller’s Gin.

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SEE ALSO 2 Peppermint MENTHA
X PIPERITA | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipep36 x
<x

Botanicals
p39 Q
Limonene p/48
ee
Technically a hybrid of watermint and
&
Mintyp164 spearmint, peppermint is native to Europe
x 5

%
*

Pinene p/77
Spearmint p227
© and the Middle East,and canbe usedasa
botanical in gin production. The leaves are
aromatic and used to flavour confectionery,
chewing gum and toothpaste, as wellasa range
of desserts suchas ice cream. Peppermint is
also used to give scent to cosmetics. For their
use in drinks, peppermint leaves are often
dried, for example to make peppermint tea.
Peppermint is alsoa key ingredient in the
green liqueur, Creme de Menthe and was used
to flavour mint ginin the early 20thcentury. 177,

Peppermint contains flavour compounds

suchas menthol, menthone, menthylacetate,
menthofuran, limonene and pinene. Gins made
using peppermintas abotanical include The
Botanist and Apostoles, from Argentina.

SEE ALSO PINGNE) cevtace conan

Botanicals p39 dee ee eeeeeneeneeneeeeeeeeesteneuseeeeessESeesseEEOEEEGSO SSE EEESEES EEE STO ESTEE EO EHEOEEEEEEOHER EEE EEE E EES

Coriander seed p68

Pinene is an organic chemical compound found
Juniper (common) 7/37
Lavender pl43 in some of the botanicals used to make gin. It
Lemonp/43 is one of the contributors to the quintessential
Mint pl64
aroma and flavour profiles of the spirit. There
Nutmegp/168
Rose p92 are two varieties — technically knownas
Rosemary p/92 structural isomers - of pinene. Alpha-pinene
Sweet orange p216 is found in the oils of many conifers suchas
 000000
pine, cedar, spruce, redwoods and fir. It is also
present in juniper berries and is a key component
that makes gin taste like gin. Itis also foundin
rosemary, eucalyptus and orange peel.
Beta-pinene is a colourless liquid that is soluble
in alcohol, but not water. This explains why
MOOOOOOOOOOOOOCO
very little flavour is extracted ifyoutry to make
tea using hot water and juniper berries. The
flavour of beta-pinene is green and resinous
witha light, sappy wood note. Beta-pinene is
found in many things, including juniper, cumin,
hops, coriander, lavender, lemon, orange, mint,
nutmeg and rose.

SEE ALSO Pink peppercorn sezives wore | soranicar

Black peppercornp29 PDOOOOOOOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO

Botanicals p39
Flavour profiles 787
Also knownas pink berry, pink peppercorn can
Tonic water 226 be used asa gin botanical. It is often mistakenly
thought to bea member of the Piperaceae family
and hence a relation of the black peppercorn,
but the pink peppercorn is actually from the
Peruvian Mastic tree, sometimes referred to
ie as the Peruvian pepper tree because its berries
Wize closely resemble red peppercorns. The plant is
native to the dry, arid habitats of northern South
Americaand the Andean deserts of Peru. This
peppercorn hasa fresh, peppery and aromatic
character witha touch of red fruitiness and
alittle menthol. It is used in small quantities
as a botanical to add vigour and complexity to
the flavour profile. Also used to flavoura small
selection of tonic waters. Gins made using pink
peppercorn include Audemus Pink Pepper Gin
and Whittaker’s Pink Particular.

Plymouth Gin | ox ss:

SHOR eee eee eeeeeeee eran sere enn nanseeeeeses ene enete eee Ee ED EEOH See eeEeeeeEaeeeseneseeneessuseneeseeeees

Until 2015, Plymouth Gin had geographically

protected status ora geographical indication
 (GI). This meant that, to be called Plymouth
Gin, the gin had to be made in Plymouth, Devon;
* itwas the only gininthe UK to have this.
* This was grandfathered in European Union
» (EU) regulation 110-2008 and seems to have
: originated froma court case between Plymouth
~ Distilleryanda number ofother distilleries in
London. Plymouth took the London-based firms
» tocourtafter they released Plymouth gins that
* were made inthe UK’s capital. The original
8 Plymouth Gin has been made at the Black Friars
© Distillery in Plymouth since 1793. The business
* was started by the firm Fox & Williamsonand,
% by the early 1880s, the distillerywas owned
by Coates & Co. In 1996, the brand was sold to
a group of investors, including John Murphy
and Richard Koch. This team hiredanew CEO,
Charles Rolls, and turned the brand, which
had fallen on hard times, around. The brand
went from selling around five thousand cases
» ayear to more than eighty thousand, before
being sold to V8&S Group in 2005, whichinturn
was sold to Pernod Ricard in 2008. In March Pp
2015, Plymouth Gin’s geographical protection —
181
expired because they did not renewit. This is
likely due to the fact that Plymouth Gin hold the
trademark for their name, which outweighsa
geographically protected status in EU law.

SEEALSO Pomelo CITRUS MAXIMA | BOTANICAL

Bitterorange 726 eneavevenensnscnsassvsnsnssuenssssnenessencesensasnscncnsenensenenecnensanensnnenanenucacansncancossecess

i ipe p36 a
eer ape ae Also
a
knownas
:
shaddock,
: this is one of the
; three
‘
Botanicals p39
Grapefruit 9/24 original citrus fruits, the other two being citrons
Sweet orange p2/6 and mandarins; all other citrus fruits are the
result of hybrids of the three types. The pomelo
can be used asa botanical in gin production; it is
somewhat larger thana grapefruit and the skin
ranges in colour from green to yellow, sometimes
witha pinkish hue. The pith of pomelo is very
 thick. Inside, the flesh is very fibrous and there
isa minimal amount ofjuice. As such, either the
whole fruit or the peel tend to be used for food and
drink applications. Native to Southeast Asia, the
pomelo is one of the parents of the hybrid citruses
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sweet orange, bitter orange and grapefruit. In
OOO production, the fresh peel of pomelo is used,
gin
partly because dried peel is difficult to come by.
The peel adds some ofthe zestiness associated
with grapefruit peel, but witha slight, mellow
sweetness. Gins using pomeloas abotanical
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4
>.

include Bloom and Monkey 47.

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SEE ALSO Pot distillation | :xoover:ox
ABV p13
Base spirit p27
Botanical cuts p35
Arelatively simple form of distillation
Botanicals p39 undertaken ina vessel containinga mixture of
DOOM?
Rectification p/87 alcohol and botanicals; this vessel is known as the
Vacuum distillationp233
pot, kettle or boiler. Atop this vesselis asealed,
Vapour distillationy234
» tapered lid knownas the head or onion (the latter
due to its similarity in shape to an onion). Asmall
> pipe knownas the swan’s neck protrudes from
» the head, slopes downward, before connecting to
182
the condenser. The condenser is usually a coiled
pipe surrounded bya water bath. When making
gin, botanicals and base spirit are added to the
pot, which is then heated. The alcohol, infused
with the essential oils of the botanicals, turns to
vapour and passes up through the head and down
the swan’s neck. Once it reaches the condenser,
the vapour is cooled by the surrounding water
bath and turns back intoa liquid. After the
botanical cuts have been taken, the gin rests
before being proofed and bottled. The heat used
in pot distillation makes it a good choice for
those who want to produce bold gins using hardy
botanicals that will not break down or become
stewed when placed in the still.
SEE ALSO Prohibition | ::5:0x.
Bathtub gin p22

Also knownas the Volstead Act, the National

Prohibition Act was an historical federal ban
of the production, sale and transportation of
alcoholic beverages in the USA. It was enacted to
carry out the intent of the 18th Amendment to the
US Constitution. Although it was vetoed by then-
President Woodrow Wilson, he was overridden by
the House of Representatives and the Senate, and
the act passed on 28 October 1919. Prohibition
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officially started on 17 January 1920. There were
various socio-economic reasons for the passing
of Prohibition, but the primary one was founded —
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se inamoralargument, driven by the temperance
movement and other religious groups.
Initially, Prohibition was poorly regulated
and various criminal organizations became
involved in helping drinkers defy the ban by
bootlegging, smuggling and running speakeasy
establishments. The quality and selection of
alcohol was inconsistent, especially with the likes
of poor-quality “bathtub gin”. This led toa rise
in “Prohibition era” cocktails, which tended to
include other strong flavours to mask the poor-
quality liquor. Prohibition led to the relocation
of many of the country’s most experienced and
influential bartenders. In turn, this led to the
spread of cocktail culture, both to the Caribbean
and farther afield to cities such as London and
Paris. Prohibition ended on 5 December 1933
with the ratification of the 21st Amendment.
There were anumber of reasons for the repeal,
but it was primarily in response to the rise of
organized crime that Prohibition had fuelled.

Proofing | PRODUCTION
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See “ABV”.

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SEE ALSO Quininated gin | cx 511:

Botanicals p39
Gin & Tonic p/04
Hendrick’s p127 A gin that features quinine or cinchona bark
Quinine p85 in addition to other botanicals is sometimes
Tonic water p226 referred to as quinine or quininated gin.
Wormwood p239
The first quininated gin, called 1897 Quinine
Gin, was released in 2015 by Atom Supplies,
in partnership with the charity Malaria No
More. Subsequently, quininated gins have
been released by Distillerie de Paris with their
Gin Tonik, and Hendrick’s, who released
Orbium in 2017, containing both quinine
and wormwood in addition to the standard
Hendrick’s botanicals. Quininated gin is
inspired by the quinine in tonic water and the
idea that, ifthe quinine was already contained
withina gin, it would be possible to just add
sparkling water in order to produce a drink
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similar in style toa Gin & Tonic. This would

avoid the need for tonic water and the additional
sugar that the traditional mix contains.
e °
SEE ALSO : Quinine CINCHONA OFFICINALIS | BOTANICAL

Gin & Tonic p104 nee ene ene nena neeeee eee sense esses seeser eee eneeaesenssaseeeseaseass es Eee HEHE ESSE ESOS EEHae ee ee esse seen eee

Quininated ginplé85
Analkaloid that can be extracted from the bark
Tonic waterp226
of the cinchona tree (Cinchona officinalis), which
is native to the Andean forests of the western
South American countries of Peru, Bolivia
and Ecuador. Cinchona bark has been used by
Europeans asa medicinal treatment since the
 late 16th century. Since the early 17thcentury,
it was found to be an effective treatment for
malaria and was used to treat the disease in
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OO Rome and the Vatican City. Malaria is caused by

a parasite which is spread whena mosquito

bites a person and introduces their saliva
(containing the parasite) to the human’s
bloodstream. In the summer, instances of
malaria were very common in Rome due to the
mosquito-filled swamps surrounding the city.
Inthe 18th and 19thcenturies, quinine
continued to be used to treat malariaand
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gradually becamea preventative treatment,
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too. As cinchona bark was very bitter, it needed
to be mixed with other ingredients to make it
more palatable. One such mix was tonic water.

a 186
 2OCOOCOCOO

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SEE ALSO Rangpur lime CITRUS

X LIMONIA | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals p39
Key lime p/47 Also knownas the lemandarin, the Rangpur
Lemonp/43 lime originated in India. This citrus fruitisa
Lime (Persian) 7/48 hybrid ofalemon anda mandarin, and hasan
Makrutlimep/s6
Tanqueray 279
orange skin. Although often referred toasa
lime, it has little relation to other fruits inthe
group. The juice of the fruit is exceptionally
sour with floral honeysuckle notes. Because
of this sourness, the Rangpur is sometimes
used asa substitute for lime, hence why it is
sometimes confused with the green fruit.
The leaves of the Rangpur lime are aromatic
ina similar way to those of the Makrut lime.
Itis used asa botanical in Tanqueray Rangpur
gin, being added after distillation.

SEE ALSO Rectification | :xopvcriox

ABV p13
Botanical cuts p35
Botanicals p39
Also knownas redistilling, rectification is the
Maceration p55 process of running alcoholic spirit through
astill. There is a variety of reasons for doing
this. Firstly, to increase the ABV of the spirit
— often used when a fermented mash has been
initially distilled to 40-60% ABV to bring it up
toa higher strength suchas 80% ABV. Orit can
be done to “clean up” a spirit by removing some
impurities, partly by the taking ofheads and
tails cuts. Finally, it maybe done to add flavour
toa spirit by redistilling it with a selection of

OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOHOOOIOHOOOOOOOO
 macerated and un-macerated gin botanicals.
Chemically, rectification is essentially
the sameas distillation, however the term
distillation is often reserved for the initial still
- run, which turns a fermented alcohol liquid
into spirit. When issuing distillers’ licences,
» many governments andjurisdictions makea
° distinction between distillation (the making
> of alcohol from scratch) and rectification
> (redistilling alcohol froma third party).

SEE ALSO % Rectifiers’ Club | HISTORY

Distillerp76
Gin house 7/07
3 Originally adining club for distillers, The
Rectifiers’ Club was founded in the late 18th
orearly 19thcentury. Among its members
> -were representatives of all ofthe classic gin
; houses, many of whom were related via blood or
2 marriage. At one time, it was once proposed that
a the Rectifiers’ Club was conducting in collusion
to fix the prices of spirits and liqueurs, although
the evidence suggests that sucha cartel, ifit
existed, was short lived. In the 21st century,
the Rectifiers’ Club has been revived bya group
of individuals with an ardent interest in gin,
including retailers, journalists, importers,
bartenders and distillers; although this Club
appears to be purely social.

SEE ALSO Red Snapper | cocxran

Glassware p/19
Ice pl135
The gin-based version ofa Bloody Mary, the Red
Snapper is a combination of gin, tomato juice and
seasoning, typically including salt, pepper and
Worcestershire (or Worcester) sauce. The Bloody
Mary, which is made using vodkaas its base
spirit, was created by Fernand Petiot in 1920.
Early recipes for the Red Snapper appeared in
the 1940s, but it was not until the 1960s that
—
HT ATETIT
 it was widely accepted asa gin cocktail. The
cocktailis popular at brunches and onairplanes;
the latter because of the drink’s intense flavour
and salinity, which help to compensate for the
pressurized and noisy environment ofthe in-
flight cabin. A selection of variations exists for
the drink, but the inclusion ofolive oil, which
gives the drink an elegant silkiness, is knownas
the Bahmi Old House.

RED SNAPPER RECIPE

50ML / 2FL0z / GIN

150ML / 5FLOz / TOMATO JUICE
3—4 LIBERAL DASHES OF WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE
SALT AND PEPPER,TO TASTE

Filla glass with ice, add the ingredients and stir.

SEE ALSO Red vermouth | cocxrs:woxenrent

Botanicals
p39
Camparip45
Dryvermouthpéo
Also knownas sweet or Italian vermouth, red
Martinipl5s9 vermouth isa fortified wine flavoured witha
Negronipl68 variety of botanicals, including wormwood.
Wormwood p239
Despite its name, red vermouth is usually based
on white wine and is coloured by infusion or the
addition of caramel or another colouring agent.
Incontrast to dry vermouth, red vermouth hasa
sweet character, but is also typically more herbal,
with deeper, more earthy and slightly bitter
flavours. The history of red vermouth goes back
to the late 18th century, when the first varieties
were produced in Turin, Italy. Red vermouth
_canbe served as an aperitifin its own right or
mixed ina wide variety of cocktails suchas the
Americano, which is made with red vermouth,
Campariand soda water. Other classic gin
cocktails that call for red vermouth include the
Negroni, the Sweet Martiniand the Martinez.
It is alsoused in non-gin cocktails suchas the
Manhattan, Rob Royand the Boulevardier.

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 ,
x
SEE ALSO s
x
Rose ROSA SP. | BOTANICAL

Botanicals 739
Carter head still p50
Avariety of flowering shrubs from the genus
Hendrick’s 9/27
Hernop/28 Rosa, the petals and rosehips from which can be
Pot distillationp782 used to flavour gin. The petals and essential oil
of rose are widely used in perfume and cooking,
- especially indesserts and confectionery. Rose
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is one of the key flavours of Turkish delight and,
in some countries, including France, rose-
flavoured lemonade is popular. In the United
Kingdom, Fentimans make avariety of rose
lemonade that pairs well with gin. The fruit of
the rose is the rosehip, which is often used to
make herbal tea, but is also used asa botanicalin
gin; an example is Crossbill Gin, which is made
using 100 percent Scottish juniper and Scottish
rosehips. Rose petals need to be treated with care
ifused in gin productionas they are fragile and
the delicate floral notes may not be extracted if
overheated. In fact, it is commonly claimed that
it is impossible to pot distil the flowers. However,
Hern6 Swedish Rose is made using distilled
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rose petals, which adda floral sweetness to the

gin. A distillate ofrose, along witha distillate
of cucumber, is added to Hendrick’s Gin, after
the blending of its two initial pot and Carter
head distillates. Another gin made using rose is
Nolet’s Silver Dry Gin. Rose is also used to make
rosewater, a cocktailingredient, and Creme de
Rose, a once-forgotten liqueur that has since
been revived.

SEE ALSO Rosemary ROSMARINUS OFFICINALIS | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

Botanicals p39
Limonene p/48 Originating from the Mediterranean with
Mintpl64 bright and aromatic leaves, rosemary isa
Pinenep/77
shrubby evergreen herb with blue, purple or
white flowers, and is a member of the Lamiaceae
or mint family. Rosemary is commonly used
 as aculinary herb and seasoning fora range
of meats; in the UK, it is regularly paired with
lamb. Rosemary leaves are used in both dried and
fresh forms, and the dried leaves are also used to
makea herbal tea. Rosemary contains flavour
compounds suchas alpha- and beta-pinenes,
carene, camphene, myrcene and limonene.
When usedasa botanical in gin, rosemary adds
anaromatic, leafy and slightly floral flavour
and aroma, which really complements resinous
juniper notes. Gins made using rosemary include
Gin Mare, Boodles and Berkeley Square.
OOO
SEE ALSO Rotovap | exovveriox
Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
Pot distillation »782
Short for rotary evaporator, this is atype of
Test stillp222 stillthat uses a reduced pressure system (see
Vacuum distillationp233 vacuum distillation page 233). The main vessel
holding the mixture ofbase spirit and botanicals
rotates in order to increase the surface area of
COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOLH_
the contents. This vessel is then gently heated
using a water bath; because of the reduced
pressure, the distillation willtake place ata
lower temperature, so botanicals do not need to
be exposed toas much heat as in pot distillation.
ie
The rotovap is commonly used in chemical
194 research laboratories, but recently has become
popular with distillers, bartenders and gourmet
chefs. The prototype for the modern rotovap was
created by Lyman Craigand was commercialized
in 1957 by Bichi of Flawil, Switzerland. Today,
most rotovaps are desktop operations, usually
around 1 litre (1% pints) in capacity, although
larger versions — up to 50 litres (88 pints) in
volume — are available. The advantages of the
rotation of the vessel over normal reduced
pressure distilling is that the centrifugal force
between the liquid and inside surface of the flask
increases the surface area. The centrifugal

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 force, as wellas frictional force, also helps to
prevent bumping, where the liquid boils over
the swan neck of the still.

SEE ALSO Royal gin (Geneva) | «1x stv

ABV p13 MOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOIOOOOHOL
Botanicals p39 LOO

Common ginp64
Aterm used in the late 18th and early 19th
Navy strength ginp/67 centuries to describe the higher-quality
varieties of gin. These were produced using
whole botanicals rather than oils, tinctures or
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essences. The following is an example recipe for
royal gin:

3LB JUNIPER BERRIES

IO GALLONS PROOF SPIRIT

4 GALLONS WATER

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This equates toacharge of around 40% ABV.
The mixture would have been distilled and then
sold at proof (57.1% ABV). This high-strength
gin was the same alcoholic strength as the latter-
day navy strength gin. The fact that it was sold
at this high strength provided some evidence to
consumers that the gin had not been adulterated
with sugar or other oils and had been flavoured
solely through distillation.
 OK

PVOMN

<x

SEEALSO - Saffron CROCUS SATIVUS | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipep36 Seine ere ne ates sures svn nau ccectecarceceskentdank sie svasceawaos keces ease vsucoccboadsunssaeleatevvavexst
Botanicals p39 s é
% A spice made from the stigmas ofa flower called
% the saffron or autumn crocus (Crocus sativus);
g these are dried before use. Weight for weight, it
g is the world’s most expensive spice. The flower
is native to Southwest Asia, but is also cultivated
in Europe, North Africa, North Americaand
Oceania. Saffron has a hay-like, spiced character
witha little smokiness. It is used asa distilled
botanical in some gins, but it is more commonly
used in post-distillation. Examples include Old
Raj Ginand Nolet’s Reserve Dry Gin. This is
likely due to the expensive nature of the spice and
the fact that more of the flavour comes through
in infusion than distillation. There is alsoasmall
subcategory of infused gins which are described
as “saffron gin”. These typically tend tobea
deep orange incolour and have saffronas avery
discernable part of their flavour profile. The first
of these was Gabriel Boudier’s Saffron Gin.

SEEALSO k Sage SALVIA OFFICINALIS | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipep36 anne ene e nse n ene eneeneeeneeneeaseeseeeeeeeesenasanenaseasenseeaseass ess ees eesE esse ESTEE EEEE EEE ESEEESEEE®

Botanicals p39
Pineney/77
af Aherb, also knownas common or garden sage,
Wormwood p239 which is amember of the Lamiaceae (mint)
family and native to countries around the
Mediterranean Sea. Sage is a popular seasoning
in cooking across Europe, including the UK,
Italy and the Baltic States. It isa key flavour in
 g the stuffing that accompanies roast turkey at
> holidays suchas Thanksgiving and Christmas.
It is also often paired with pork, either when
roasted or processed into sausages. In gin, sage
addsa leafy flavour witha hint of pepperiness
and herbal complexity. It helps to balance out
sweeter and more citrusy notes. Sage contains
camphor and alpha-pinene
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO and is also a source
of alpha- and beta-thujone. The botanical
typically has a higher concentration of the
latter chemical compound than wormwood,
which is the main source of thujone in absinthe.
Gins that features sage as a botanical include
Boodles, St George Spirits’ Terroir Gin, Gilpin’s
and Berkeley Square.

SEE ALSO Seagram’s |sxaxo

ABV p13
Aged ginp/5
Botanical recipe p36
A brand of gin popular in the United States
Prohibitionp783 of America made using a botanical recipe of
Sipping giny207 juniper, coriander, angelica root, and both
Yellow ginp243
bitter and sweet orange. It is bottled at 40% ABV.
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In 1857, a distillery was founded in Waterloo,
Ontario in Canada that Joseph E Seagram took
> over in 1883, naming the company Joseph E
Seagram & Sons. After Seagram’s deathin 1919,
the company merged with Distillers Corporation
S Limited, owned by Samuel Bronfman. The new
“198
company, which kept the Seagram’s name, set
up business in the United States in the 1930s
following the repeal of Prohibition in 1933. They
successfully sold aged whiskeys and, in 1939,
released the Extra Dry Gin that is popular today,
then called “Seagram’s Ancient Bottle Distilled
Dry Gin”. This was matured in white oak casks,
which gave it a distinctive pale yellow colour.
Early advertisements highlight the mellowing
effect that the wood had on the spirit, but — with
the exception of some barrel charins added
 ——
Sie
3
—J

—
 OOOO
to the bottles in the 1950s — the aging was not
emphasized in the gin’s marketing. Its name
evolved over the years from “Seagram’s Golden
Gin” (1950) to “Seagram’s Extra Dry Golden
Gin” (1955) and then to “Seagram’s Extra Dry
Gin” (1960). Fifty years later, in 2010, Seagram’s
stopped barrel-aging their gin, citinga need
for greater quality control. The gin kept its
traditional flavour profile and its pale yellow
colour, although in some markets, suchas Spain,
the gin is clear. From the 1950s onwards, the
company diversified into other markets and
by 2000, Edgar Bronfman Jr, descendant of
9000000000000000000000000000000000
Samuel Bronfman, sold the beverage division of ~
Seagram’s to Pernod Ricard and Diageo. In the
early
OOOKK 21st century, Seagram’s launched a range
of flavoured “Twisted Gins”, which are bottled
x
at 35% ABV. The fruit flavouring comes from the
?,
addition of liqueurs, with flavours suchas lime,
pineapple and peach.

SEE ALSO Shaken/Shaksing | s:xo:06v

ABV p13
Icepl35
Stirred/Stirringp2/5
A method by which a drink is vigorously mixed.
Ice is placed intoa cocktail shaker, along with the
drink’s ingredients. The shaker is then sealed
and shaken with vigour. Shaking has anumber
of impacts upon the ingredients. It helps to mix
or combine them and cools the ingredients due to
ice melt. Also, the alcohol in the drink is slightly
diluted when the ice melts. A cocktail that started
off at 40% ABV, on average, ends up around
26-30% ABV after shaking with ice. The process
of shaking also traps small air bubbles in the
liquid, making it appear cloudy and giving the
drinka fluffier, softer texture; this is sometimes
knownas “bruising”. A cocktail should be shaken
for between 30 and 60 seconds, depending upon
the size of the shaker; although the best method
 for determining when your cocktail is ready is
to shake until the outside of the shaker becomes
frosted (ice starts to form on the outside).
Because some small shards ofice break off the
larger cubes during shaking, it is often necessary
to fine strain or double strain the drink before
serving. This involves the use ofa fine mesh
strainer, much like those used to filter out the
leaves when pouring loose-leaftea. Adry shake
is a different technique, which involves shaking
the ingredients together before the addition
of ice. Ice is then added anda second shake
POOOOOOOOOOOOOOC
undertaken. This is commonly used whena
cocktail recipe includes pineapple juice or egg
whites. The dry shake helps to emulsify the
liquid and create a lighter, smoother and frothier
texture to the drink.

SEE ALSO Signature botanical gin |or stir

Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Elderpé7
Anemerging category of gin that involves a
Fruit ginp92 particular flavour being highlighted on the gin’s
Lemon p/43 label beyond that of juniper. This particular
London ginp/5/
Macerationp/55
flavour is knownas the signature botanical.
Sweet orange p2/6 As of 2017, the International Wine & Spirits
Competition has included Signature Botanical
as arecognized gin category. The first modern
202 signature botanical gins were released in the
first fewyears of the 21st century; an example
being Knockeen Hills Heather Gin. Like
other signature botanical gins, this was an
unsweetened gin, produced at the Timbermill
Distillery, whose flavour came completely
through distillation and so could technically
be considered a London gin. This is essentially
what separates signature botanical gins from
other macerated or fruit gins. Today, signature
botanical gins are made around the world,
but are particularly popular in Australia, the

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 SOOOOL

» United States, the United Kingdom and Europe.

» Popular flavours for signature botanical gins
include orange, lemon and elderflower. Unlike
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» fruit gins, which are often sweetened, signature

» botanical gins are dry and canbe mixedina
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similar way to regular gins.
ASL
OOK

SEE ALSO
DOOL
Signature serve | s:xoL06y
Cucumber p74
Garnishes
p93 OO

Gin & Tonic p104 The signature serve is a particular combination

Hendrick’s
9127 » ofingredients that create a drink which
Rose p192 > specifically complements the characteristics
Seagram’s p198
of the gin. For example, a gin that features
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rosemary quite heavily may work well when
paired witha more herbaceous tonic and
garnished with lemon or even lemon thyme. The
signature serve exists to give bartenders and
consumers an idea of how to mix the drink. It
should be visually attractive, taste great and be
quick and easy to make with readily obtainable
ingredients. The signature serve is not designed
to be prescriptive and dictate the only wayto mix
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOKYK
- the gin; rather, it is there to provide inspiration.
» Another good example ofa signature serve is
the use of cucumber ina Gin & Tonic made with
Hendrick’s Gin. The gin contains both rose and
cucumber and the pioneering use of acucumber
garnish over lemon or lime really captured the S
oe
drinking public’s imagination. It is worth noting
that an advert for Seagram’s Gin in the 1970s
suggested a cucumber garnish, but it did not take
offat that time.

SEE ALSO Single Bottle Act | s:sroxs

Booth’s p34
Distilleryp79
Officially described as “An Act for granting
Gin house p/07
Gordon’s 7120 to Her Majesty certain Duties of Excise and
Tanqueray p2/9 Stamps”, this Act of Parliament was passed
in Great Britain on 28 June 1861. Italloweda
 licenced dealer ofspirits to “sell by retail foreign
OOOOOMX

and British spirits”. The minimum bottle size

for domestic spirits was one quart (1.14 litres/
2 pints) or, for imported spirits, the same
bottle in which the spirit was imported. These
spirits were not allowed to be consumed on the
premises ofthe retailer. This act paved the way
for the first off-licences or liquor stores. This
development came at around the same time as
the reputations of the great gin houses or gin
brands were becoming established. Prior to this,
agin distillery would simply selltheir gintoa
publican, who would adulterate it with water or
sugar (if patrons were lucky; worse things ifthey
were not). As such, the distilleries did not have
control over what their consumers received.
Selling gin by the bottle meant that distilleries
could seal the containers before shipping them
to merchants, who would sell the gin directly to
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consumers. They could be far more confident
that the consumer would taste the gin exactly
as the distiller intended. This helped companies
suchas Booth’s, Tanqueray and Gordon’s to
build reputation and brand loyalty.

SEE ALSO Single shot | PRODUCTION

ABV p13
Botanicals p39
204 Potdistillationy782 Ona fundamental level, gin is made when spirit
and botanicals are placed ina pot stilland
distilled. The resulting distillate is then proofed
with water and, after some time for the gin to
settle, itis ready to drink. This is referred to as
single or one-shot distillation. For example,a
distiller users 1kg (2%4lb) of botanicals to create
agin and ends up with 50 litres (11 gallons) of
distillate at 80% ABV. This is proofed 50/50 with
water to create 100 litres (22 gallons) of gin at
40% ABV. This one distillation run has created
100 litres (22 gallons) of gin.
 Ifthe distiller decides to double the quantity
of botanicals to 2kg 4%lb) and keeps everything
else the same, he will end up with 50 litres (11
gallons) of distillate at 80% ABV that has double
the concentration and intensity of botanical
flavour. This means that the distillate canbe
mixed with 50 litres (11 gallons) of neutral spirit
at 80% ABV without losing any ofthe flavour
intensity of the first example. The distiller can
then proof these 100 litres (22 gallons) to create
200 litres (44 gallons) at 40% ABV. This second
distillation run has created twice as much gin.
This is knownas the multi-shot, multi-fold
or concentrate method of distillation. Some
distillers use a 10 or even 20 times concentration,
meaning that one distillation run could create
up to 2,000 litres (440 gallons) of finished gin
using the multi-fold method, compared to only
100 litres (22 gallons) using the single shot
method. The primary benefit of the multi-shot
method is that it isa more efficient use ofa still
and allows the distiller to increase production
without the need for additional equipment and
costly capital expenditure.

SEE ALSO Sipping Gin | cw srviz

Agedginp/5
Negronip/68
Redvermouthp/91
A modern style ofaged gin, as distinct from
Yellow ginp243 yellow gin. The character of sipping gin is
determined by achievinga fine balance between
the notes of the wood and those of the gin’s
botanicals. Unlike yellow gins, sipping gins are
designed to be drunk on their own or mixedina
similar fashion to whisky, often paired with red
vermouth and other herbal or spicy ingredients.
Cocktails usually made with sipping gin include
the Manhattan, Negroniand the Old Fashioned.
Sipping gins are usually aged for months rather
than weeks; the average is between three and

000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
 ® sixmonths. In the case of Alambic’s Special
Caribbean Gin, it is aged for 14 years in used
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whisky casks, thena further two years in used
Caribbean rumcasks.
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SEE ALSO Sloe gin |cixsryie

Bitter lemonp26
Plymouth Ginp/78
A fruit liqueur created by infusing sloe berries in
gin and adding sugar or honey to sweeten.
Sloe berries are the fruits of the blackthorn bush
(Prunus spinosa),
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO which is native to Europe and
western Asia. The fruit hasadark, plummy,
* astringent flavour witha little almond nuttiness
from the seed. The liqueur is thought to date from
17th-century England when hedgerows, a rich
source of sloes, were planted to separate plots of
land created by the Enclosure Acts. Sloe gin was
away to preserve the sloe berries, which were
too tart to be eaten on their own. The popularity
of sloe gin increased during the Gin Craze of the
18th century, when it was described as “poor
man’s port”. In 1803, the Hawker’s brand was
founded; they eventually produced the Pedlar’s
brand of sloe gin. Plymouth Gin, made in the
same city, released theirs in 1883. The nearby
area of Dartmoor was a plentiful supply of sloe
berries. The Pedlar brand led to the creation
ES
208
of one of the most famous sloe gin drinks: the
Long Pedlar, a mix of sloe gin and bitter lemon.
Other cocktails include the Sloe Gin Fizz.
Notable brands of sloe gin available today include
Plymouth, Sipsmith and Hawker’s.

SEE ALSO Soda water | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Bitter lemonp26
Tonic water p226
Also knownas fizzy or carbonated water, club
soda or seltzer, soda water is carbon dioxide
dissolved in water and was the first carbonated
drink. Some naturally carbonated waters have
 high amounts of dissolved minerals due to
the presence of carbon dioxide; this is usually
released from volcanic rocks near the source
of the spring. Such waters were historically
prized for their health benefits. In 176 7, natural
philosopher and clergyman Joseph Priestley
inventeda process for artificially carbonating
water by suspending a bowl of water over a beer
vat ina Leeds brewery. The carbon dioxide
released from the fermenting beer dissolved into
the water, carbonating it. At the time, Priestley
theorized that it was a possible cure for scurvy.
In 1783, Swiss jeweller Jacob Schweppe released
acommercial carbonated water. The main *
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difference between carbonated water and club
soda is that the latter has additional ingredients
suchas Himalayan salt to give ita mineral
quality. Historically, this was because the carbon
dioxide used in the United States was made
froma mix of chalkand sulphuric acid, which
gave the water an acidic quality; the salt was
added to balance the flavour. Soda water is akey
ingredient in Gin & Sodaand Gin Collins. It was
also the precursor to other carbonated drinks
suchas tonic water, bitter lemon and cola.

SEE ALSO Spearmint sewer sercars | voraniear

Botanical recipep36
Botanicals p39
Also known as common or garden mint,
Limonene p/48
Minty/64 spearmint is native to Europe and Asia, but now
Peppermint 7177 grows across the world, including the Americas,
Pinenep/77
North and West Africa, as wellas parts of
Oceania. The leaves have pointed tips, hence the
name “spear” mint. Spearmint leaves are used
in anumber of popular cocktails, including the
Bourbon-based Mint Julep and the rum-based
Mojito. Unlike peppermint, spearmint does not
contain large quantities of menthol or menthone,
but does contain alpha-pinene, beta-pinene,
 OOOOK
AL>
carvone, limonene and eucalyptol. Gins that use
spearmint asa botanical include The Botanist
and Cardinal from the United States of America.

SEE ALSO SPICy| riavourrnorie

Botanicals
p39
Cassiabarkp50
One of the flavour profiles into which gins can
Cinnamonp57
Cloves p62 be categorized. The spicy flavour profile can be
Flavour profiles 87 subdivided into sweet spice and savoury spice.
Gin & Tonic p/04
Sweet spice has botanical flavours from spices
Grains of paradise p123
Negronip/68 suchas nutmeg, cinnamon, cassiaand clove;
Nutmegy/68 while savoury spice focuses on botanical flavours
Pink peppercornp/78
suchas cumin, pepper and grains of paradise.
Spicy gins are often praised for their complexity
and soft, round mouthfeel. They also help to
introduce flavours to gin that anew drinker
might not expect. Spicy gins work well in hot
drinks and cocktails with strong flavours such
the Negroni. They also make great autumnal
Gin & Tonics. Examples of sweet spice gins
include Portobello Road, Knickerbocker and
Edinburgh Gin. Examples of savoury spice gins
include Darnley’s View Spiced and Audemus
Pink Peppercorn Gin. Examples of spicy gins
with both sweet and savoury spice are Opihrand
Bombay Sapphire East.

SEE ALSO Star anise szrcruwve0vu | soranicat

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Anetholep/6é
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals p39 The dried seed pod of the tree icium verum,an
Louchingp/53 evergreen tree native to Vietnam and southern
China, which can be usedasabotanicalin gin
production. The star-shaped pod usually has
eight points, each of which contains a shiny,
kernel-like seed. Star anise is oilyand hasa
strong, anise-like flavour, although it is not
actually related to anise. The similarities in
aroma and flavour are because both contain
anethole. Star anise hasa variety of culinary,
 cosmetic and pharmaceutical uses. It is one
of the components of Chinese five spice. Star
anise is used in the liqueur Galliano and to
flavour sambuca, pastis and absinthe. The high
oil content of this botanical is the reason why
many of these spirits louche. In gin distillation,
star anise adds a spicy sweetness. Due to its
high oil content and strong flavour, it needs to
be used sparingly as it can easily overpowera
gin’s flavour. Examples of gins using star anise
include St George Spirits’ Botanivore Ginand
Citadelle Gin.

SEE ALSO 4 Stirred/Stirring | MIXOLOGY

Icepl35 OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHO?
Martinipl59
Shaken/Shakingp207
Amethod of mixinga drink using a mixing glass
filled with ice. The ingredients are added to the
» glass and then stirred witha bar spoon or other
implement. Ina similar way to shaking, stirring
both combines the ingredients and chills and
dilutes the drink due to the melting of the ice.
Because stirring ingredients mixes them less
vigorously than shaking, they do not coolas
quickly and no aeration takes place, resultingina
clearer drink than its shaken counterpart. Some
Martiniaficionados believe that this makes the
drink taste more pure. S

SEE ALSO Strawberry Qin | ow sri

ABV pi3
Fruit ginp92
A type of gin with the flavour of strawberries.
Macerationp/55
The rise in popularity of strawberry gin began
in Valencia, Spain in 2013-14. A local brand,
Gin Puerto de Indias, was released and the
phenomenal success of this product, which was
typically served with Lemon Fanta, causeda
number of other Spanish brands to rush similar
products to market. By the beginning of 2015,
more than 30 products were available. The
 SSS
VO"

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A, 7 production methods of these gins varied greatly,
from the addition of strawberry flavouring
and pink colouring to an existing gin, toa more
carefulinfusion of fresh strawberries in dry gin,
which is then lightly sweetened. Asa result, there
is great inconsistency in quality: products range
from being little more thana pink strawberry
vodka to those that genuinely capture the essence
of the aromaand flavour ofthe fruit alongside
the traditional flavours of gin. The strengths
of the gins also vary from 37.5—42% ABV. In
recent years, the mania surrounding strawberry
gin seems to have relaxed alittle, although many
are stillavailable.

COOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOON.
SEEALSO Oo Sweet orange CITRUS SINENSIS | BOTANICAL

Bitter orange p26

Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals39
Thought to have originated in southern China,
Pomelop/é87 sweet orange isa hybrid of the pomelo (Citrus
maxima) andthe mandarin (Citrus reticulata)
and is used to flavour many different gins. They
were introduced into Spain by the Moors inthe
10th century. Sweet orange is often juiced to
create orange juice, a popular breakfast drink
which is commonly available in filtered and
unfiltered varieties. The peel of sweet orange
contains essential oils that can be extracted
S to make orange essence. This essence is used
216
to flavour a
variety of sweets and desserts.
The petals are also used to create “orange
blossom water”, a citrus variation of rosewater.
Beehives located near orange groves produce
a particularly aromatic type of honey that is
often sold as “orange blossom honey”. In gin
production, sweet orange peels are used, either
dried or fresh, to adda lightly sweet citrus
note, a gentle florality anda juicy mellowness
to the spirit. The flowers (orange blossom) are
sometimes used alongside citrus peels in gin
 production to enhance their flavour and add
alight florality. Today, the main producers of
:
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©
sweet oranges are Brazil, followed by the USA
3g and Mexico. Popular varieties include Valencia
oranges, Navel oranges, Jaffa oranges, Narinja
g oranges and blood oranges. Sweet orange is used
as abotanical in Beefeater Gin, City of London
Distillery Ginand Adnams Copper House Gin.
2
3 Sweetening
24
the still | :oovcri0x
:
SEE ALSO
Botanicals
p39
Caraway p46
Distillerp76 : A method dating back to the 18thand 19th
Juniper (common) p/37 centuries which is rarely practised in modern
Pot distillationpZé82 days, except among some small distillers.
Sweetening the still takes place ina still that
is used for makingavariety of spirits, most
typically a pot still. The distiller will plan outa
specific order in which to produce their range of
spirits in sucha way that some of the character
of each spirit will leave some residual flavour in
the still, which will be picked up in the flavour
profile of the next spirit to be made. For example,
a distiller may use their still to makea gin using
juniper, caraway and anise and do all of this just
before making grappaon the same still. The
desire being that some of the essential oils from
the gin’s resinous, sweet and spicy botanicals
will remain in the stilland adda subtle,
“ 218

additional complexity to the otherwise

unflavoured grape spirit.
SEE ALSO Tanqueray | sxaxo
ABV p13 OOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOOOOOHX
Angelica root p/9
Chamomile p53 LOOK
©
Amajor gin brand based inthe UK and owned
<
by Diageo. The company’s largest market is
A *<
Corianderseedp68 Y

Gin house 107 in the United States. Their primary products

Ginger p114
Gordon’s 7/20
area London dry gin (at 43.1% ABV inthe UK
Grapefruitp/24 and 47.3% ABV for export) anda premium gin:
Juniper (common)
137 Tanqueray No. Ten. The botanical recipe for
Licorice rootp/47
the London dry includes juniper, angelica root,
Lime (Persian) 7/48 >

Rangpurlimep/87 coriander seed and licorice. Tanqueray No.

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A

Sweet orange p216 Ten uses the same botanical recipe, plus
chamomile flowers, orange, lime and grapefruit.
Other products include Tanqueray Rangpur,
which adds rangpur limes, ginger and bay
leaves to the original botanical recipe; and
Tanqueray Malacca, a slightly sweeter, fruitier
variety which was discontinued at the end of the
20thcentury.
The company was founded by Charles
Tanqueray in Bloomsbury, London, in 1830. T
In 1898, Tanqueray merged with Gordon’s, 219

creating Tanqueray, Gordon’s & Co., which

was later acquired by The Distillers Company.
This was later taken over by Guinness & Co.
to become United Distillers, whichis now
apart of Diageo. From the 1950s onwards,
Tanqueray was marketed specifically for the
export market, gaining notable popularity in
the United States. The original Tanqueray
distillery was badly damaged during the Second

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 World War. Production moved from Essex
to Cameron Bridge in Scotland in 1998. Like
Gordon’s, Tanqueray has a distinctive bottle
design in green glass. The crest on the bottle
depicts a pineapple, a symbol that historically
has represented hospitality and prosperity.

SEE ALSO Terroir ;»xovction

Base spirit p27
Botanicals p39
Yuzup245 Unlike terroir in wine, terroir in ginis not
determined by the exact geological, geographical
and environmental conditions surroundinga
distillery. Instead, it refers to the way in which
a distiller manages to capture the character of
an area through their choice of botanicals or, in
some cases, base spirit. Botanicals can either
be locally sourced or can have a flavour that is
either evocative of, or is particularly popular in,
OCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOH
a given location. For example, a distillery by the
sea may use rock samphire or kelp; a distillery
in Seattle may use blackcurrant because itisa
popular local flavour; Japanese gin distilleries
often use botanicals associated with Japan, such
as yuzuorcherry blossom; or distilleries located
in or near major vine-producing regions, such
as California, New York andAustralia, will
often use a base spirit made from local grapes.
Another way to capture terroir in gin is to use
a local water supply, although this is likely to
have more impact ona marketing backstory orn

than on the discernable character of the gin.

One limitation of using terroir in gin, especially
locally sourced botanicals, is that often they will
only be available for a season, which makes year-
round production problematic. One solution
is to limit the terroir gin toa seasonal release.
Alternatively, it may be suitable to freeze or dry
botanicals, or create a concentrated botanical
distillate which can then be stored until needed.

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 SEE ALSO Test still | :xopverion
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Botanical recipe p36
>
Botanicals p39
Also knownasa prototype still, this isa still that
Cardamomp49
Lavender p/43 is much smaller than those used for commercial
Potdistillationp782 gin production, typically between 1 and 10 litres
Rotovap pl94
(1% and 17% pints) in size. The smaller volume
allows the distiller to experiment with new
ideas and recipes without having to commit the
resources that a full still run would demand.
Test stills are generally made of copper or glass
and are usually heated by an electric hot plate.
In some cases, a distillery may use arotovapasa
test still. Test stills can also be used to create an
individual botanical distillate when a distillery
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is investigating the viability ofusinga new,
Y
unusual botanical. It is worth noting that ifa
distiller is happy with the results from their
test still, caution must be used when scaling
the recipe up so that it can be used ona larger
production still, as the increase is not necessarya
linear one. This is because some botanicals have
a disproportionate effect on the character of the
gin when distilled in larger quantities. Examples
include citrus, cardamom, lavender and anise,
among others; these botanicals “push above
their weight” and this needs to be compensated
for when calculating the botanical recipe for the
larger still.
T
PPP SEE ALSO The Last Word | cocxran
Glassware p119
Green Chartreuse p25
Icepl35 A gin cocktail first referenced in Ted Saucier’s
Shaken/Shaking
207 1951 drinks book, Bottom’s Up. According to
Saucier, the history ofthe drink goes backa
further 30 years or so to the Detroit Athletic Club,
a private socialand athletic club in Madison
Street, Detroit, Michigan, where the drink had
been served fromat least 1916. It was either
created by, for, or named after, Frank Fogarty,
 avaudevillian monologist, hence the cocktail’s
name. Like many drinks from the Golden Era
of cocktails, the drink fell out of fashion and was
forgotten by the 1960s or 1970s. It was revived
by Murray Stenson of the Zig Zag Café in Seattle
in 2004.

THE LAST WORD RECIPE

30ML / 1FLOz / DRYGIN

30ML / 1FL0OZ / FRESH LIME JUICE
30ML / 1FL0z / GREEN CHARTREUSE
30ML / 1FLO0z / MARASCHINO

Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with

ice, shake welland strain into a Martinior coupe glass.
Ifyou prefer a drier drink, double the quantity ofgin.

SEE ALSO Throwing |sixo.00v

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Ice pi35
Martinip/59
Negronipl68
; Along-forgotten way of mixing drinks that
Prohibitionp783 dates back to the Prohibition era. It involves
passing the drink between two cocktail shaker
tins (bases) and slowly moving the receiving tin
farther away, so that the liquid pours for longer.
The mixture becomes oxygenated as it passes
through the air, which helps to give the drinka
light, fluffy texture. The ice is kept in the first tin
with the use ofa cocktail strainer. This method
was used in the E] Floridita Bar in Havana,
Cuba, where it was knownas “Escandiado”. It is
still sometimes referred to as “Estillo Cubano”
or “Cuban Style”. Throwing was learned in El
Floridita Bar in the early 20th century by Miguel
Boadas, who was bornin Havanain 1895. In
1925, Boadas moved to Barcelona, where he
opened Boadas Bar in 1953, bringing the art
of throwing with him. This location was one of
the last few refuges of the technique and it was
routinely used for Martinis, Manhattans and
Negronis. Some time later, from 2012 onwards,
various bartenders and cocktail historians
 . endeavoured to reintroduce throwing. The
© method is similar to that of rolling, which
involves passing a mix of ingredients, including
ice, between two cocktail shaker tins. There is no
long pour involved in rolling and the aim is to get
’ as little aeration as possible.
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SEEALSO
8
& Tonic
. syrup | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Soda water p208 4 eoccenccnescedBansectovesceveucuvevecdevessocioesscnded0ugecocevevensecsecdsutdessscadeancunstensnsuashes

Tonic water p226

Tonic syrup is the concentrated form of tonic
water. It is generally mixed with sparkling
water to create tonic water, but can also be
usedasa cocktail ingredient in its own right.
The concept of tonic syrup has been around
for decades; the brand SodaStream have solda
tonic syrup for use in their home carbonation
machines since the 1970s. Tonic syrup gained
in popularity in the United States in 2010.
Around this time, bartenders were starting
to rediscover old cocktails and techniques,
and began to pay attention to using more fresh
OCOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOON.
and homemade ingredients. John’s Premium
Tonic of Arizona was one of the first varieties
commercially available. The choice to sell the
syrup in its concentrated form rather than
diluted, carbonated and bottled, was largely
down to the cost and the environmental impact
of shipping cases of bottles across the country.
Incontrast, Europe, which has established and
accessible road networks connecting more than
20 countries, has seemed to prefer ready-mixed
tonic waters, and tonic syrup is stilla novelty.

SEE ALSO Tonic water | COCKTAILINGREDIENT

Gin & Tonic p104 ASSES R See eee ene eee eee eee seen eee EeEs ses eeeeeeese st ESE OSOEE EEE EGE EseEEeEeeESeEEESeSteseesesessenseseete

Gin Tonicapl13 5 5 Ae
Pink peppercorny/78 Also knownas Indian tonic water, quinine water
Quinine 785 or quininated water, tonic water isa sparkling
Tonic syrupp226 soft drink that contains quinine, citric acidand
sugar. The concept of combining tonic water
 DOOOOX
ALD
i,
and wines, in particular with supposed health
benefits, has been around for centuries, but
the first tonic water as we would know it today
(sparkling water with quinine) dates from
1851. Erasmus Bond, a Victorian businessman
and mineral water manufacturer, patented
an “improved aerated tonic liquid” which was
originally intended solely for its health benefits.
Schweppes, already famous for their carbonated
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> water, released their first tonic water in the
- 1870s andwere the first large, commercial brand
to sell the product.
In 2005, Charles Rolls (who had worked with
Plymouth Gin in the late 20th century) and Tim
Warrillow released their tonic water, Fever-
Tree Premium Indian Tonic Water. This led the
way for an expansion in the market. Following
the recent success and the reviving fortunes
of gin, the variety of tonic waters available has
increased significantly, especially in Spain,
where the Gin Tonica is driving innovation.
In addition to an increase in the number of
premium tonic waters available, more flavoured
varieties have been released, too. Old favourites
suchas lemon or lime have been joined by new
varieties suchas pink peppercorn, elderflower,
cherry blossom and even tomato.

I SEEALSO Transatlantic gin | os sri

228 Classic gin p67 SOE OA Ee arene neon eee eee ees : seeees ee ese HH EES ESE Eee Eee OH EEE OSE ESSE SEE Ese ESE EEE eEeEEEEEEESOEEE SEES OSES

Contemporary gin p65

Londoriait pis] A gin that bridges the gap between classic
and contemporary gins, first appearingin
the late 1990s. This gin style is named after the
Transatlantic (or mid-Atlantic) accent that was
popular with film stars in the 1930s and 1940s;
it uniquely combined the typical speaking styles
from British (or British Received Pronunciation)
and American English. Transatlantic gins
are sometimes also knownas “Cary Grant” or
 “Katherine Hepburn” gins, as both of these
actors hada Transatlantic accent. This style of
gin has its origins firmly rooted in the tradition
of London gin, but adds a twist to the classic
style that is not quite as bold an innovation to
make it contemporary. The first Transatlantic
gin to be readily identified as such was Junipero
from Anchor Distillingin San Francisco, which
has been described as “a London dry gin that
moved to California, then gota tan anda six-
pack”. Other Transatlantic gins include Rehorst
Gin from Wisconsin, Big Gin from Seattle and
Warner Edwards Gin from Harrington, UK.

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229
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:
g
g
8.

SEE ALSO > Uganda Waragi | s:sx>

$ e

ABV p73 OC eer seg haere ca lp Ro er rr

Base spirit p27 & é : “ : : :
Gin&Colapr03 ~ Waragi, meaning “war gin”, isa gin brand
Gin & Tonic p04 & owned by Uganda Breweries Ltd, part of Diageo _
Tonic waterp226 © and produced inthe African country of Uganda.
g It is sold at 40% ABV both in bottles and 100ml
g (3%fl oz) plastic sachets, similar in appearance
8 to oversized ketchup packets. Uganda Waragi
g was first produced in 1965 by East Africa
’ Distillers and usesa base spirit made from
: millet. Itis currently Uganda’s best-selling spirit
* brand, with around 40 percent of the market
share. Inits country of origin, Uganda Waragi
* isoftendrunk mixed or witha splash of lime
2 juice. Popular mixers for using it inalongdrink
include Coca Cola, fruit juice and tonic water.

SEEALSO & Umami | MIXOLOGY

Gibsonp97 dancscvsenvecsssascssesesvesscsasscqnsSsaevesecnensscsnsassaseascesoesenepersseescssvescecescceoseseess

Red Snapperp/8&
One of the five tastes; the other basic tastes are
sweetness, saltiness, bitterness and sourness.
The somewhat savoury flavour of umami is eee
produced by glutamic acid and naturally
occurring flavour components. These are
picked up by specific taste receptors all over the
tongue whichare particularly sensitive to it. The
substance behind umamiwas first identified in
1866 and it was classified as a separate taste in
1908 by the Japanese scientist Kikunae Ikeda.
Umamiis often found in fish, mushrooms, cured
 AOOO

meats and vegetables suchas spinach, tomatoes

and celery. It is also commonly identified in
soy sauce and yeast extract. A good example of
umami is the combination of cheese and tomato,
whether that be ina pasta dish, pizza, orevena
cheeseburger with ketchup. In the gin world,
umami is most commonly found in cocktails
suchas the Gibson or Red Snapper.

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232
SEE ALSO Vacuum distillation | :xoovcrox
Botanicals
939
Pot distillationp782
Rectification 7187 Technically, most examples of “vacuum
Rotovapp/194 distillation” do not take place undera true
Vapour distillation 7234 vacuum, but rather under reduced pressure.
The distillation process takes place within an
airtight system where the air is removed viaa
pump; this lowers the pressure. As the pressure
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»
decreases, the boiling points of liquids, in
particular, also decrease. Most systems reduce
the pressure so that alcohol boils between 20 and
30°C (68 and 86°F), as opposed to 78°C (172°F).
This lower boiling point means that the alcohol
and anybotanicals are subject to less heat and,
as such, botanicals are not cooked and are less
likely to break down and release stewed flavours.
Advocates of vacuum distilling proclaim
that it produces a fresher and more genuine
flavour. The process also enables the use of some
botanicals that would burn ina traditional pot
still, especially any ingredients containing
large amounts of sugar. The downside of vacuum
distilling is that the capital expenditure is
larger relative to the size of the stilland more
maintenance is needed, especially for the air
pumps. Vacuum-distilled gins include Sacred
and Oxley. The latter ginis distilledat sucha
pressure that it distils at —5°C (23°F).

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 SEE ALSO Vanilla vaviccs ecavrrorrs | novanreat
Botanical recipe p36
Botanicals 739
Aspice from the seed pod of the vanilla orchid,
Hern6p/28
this is the second most expensive botanical in
the world. Vanillais native to Central America
and Mexico. It also grows in the Caribbean and
Madagascar. The primary commercial supply
of vanilla comes from the Indian Ocean island
of Madagascar, where it was introduced by the
French in the mid-19th century. Before this
time, Mexico was the primary producer. The
French also exported vanilla orchids to the
Réunion and Comoros Islands. Vanilla hasa soft,
sweet and creamy flavour witha smooth hint
of butter and floral notes. Vanilla from Tahiti
is froma different genus and hasa more fruity
and floral character, with hints of cherry and
anise. Used sparingly in gin, vanilla pods add
asmoothness to the spirit’s texture, as wellasa
sweet creaminess. Vanilla is alsoa key ingredient
for cream sodaand the Italian liqueurs Galliano
and Tuaca. Gins using vanillaas a botanical
include Hern6, Zuidam Dutch Courage Gin
and McQueen Mocha Gin.

SEE ALSO Vapour distillation | »:0.vcriox

Bombay Spirits Company p33
Botanicals p39
Carter head still ps0 Invented in the mid-19th century, vapour
Greenall’s 9726 distillation involves placing the botanicals
Hendrick’s »127 ina gin basket or vapour basket rather than
Potdistillationy782
Vacuum distillationy233
placing them directly in the pot of the still with
the alcohol, as is the case when gin is distilled
234
by pot distillation. When the alcohol is heated,
it boils and turns into vapour, which then
rises through the still and passes through the
perforated basket containing the botanicals.
As the alcohol vapour passes over the botanicals,
it extracts some of their aromas and flavours.
The advantage of vapour distillation is that the

$9000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
| ieee wee Ae
 botanicals are farther away from the heat source
and so stay cooler throughout the distillation
process. This means that they don’t start to
break down or become stewed or cooked, which
can negatively affect the flavour ofthe gin.
Because of this, vapour distillation is often
favoured by distillers using delicate botanicals
suchas fresh leaves or flowers. As the vapour
passes from the base of the basket to the top,
the order in which the botanicals are placed
can makea significant difference to the gin’s
flavour, with the flavours of the botanicals
placed on top being more easily extracted than
those underneath. Vapour distillation is often
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©
associated with the Carter head still, a particular
type of still which is used by Greenall’s, Bombay
Sapphire and Hendrick’s.

SEE ALSO Vesper | cocxran

ABV pi3
Garnishes p93
Glassware p119
First mentioned in Ian Fleming’s 1953 book
Gordon’s p/20 Casino Royale, the Vesper is a cocktail ordered
Ice p135 by Fleming’s most famous creation, James Bond,
Lillet p747
British agent 007. The drinkisavariationona
Martinipl59
Shaken/Shakingy207 Martiniand, unusually, features both vodka
and gin. Ian Fleming created the drink with his
friend Ivar Bryce in the early 1950s in Jamaica.
It was named aftera frozenrum drink that
was served at sunset at another mutual friend’s
house; in this case, “vesper” was presumably
areference to the evening prayers. In Casino
Royale, Bond names the cocktail after the book’s Vv
leading lady. 237

The original ingredients of the Vesper have

receiveda lot of attention as many have changed
since the early 1950s. The Gordon’s gin would
have been at a stronger 47.3% ABV and the vodka
would have likely been at 50% ABV. The original
recipe calls for Kina Lillet, which has held the
 greatest fascination for drinks researchers,
- asthe version that Fleming used has long since
disappeared; a modern alternative — Lillet Blanc
—is commonly used instead, but it is less bitter.

VESPER RECIPE

90m. / 3FLOz / GORDON’S GIN

30ML / 1FLOz / VODKA
15MuL / %FL0z / LILLET BLANC
LEMON TWIST,TO GARNISH

Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled with

> Ice, shake welland strain into acocktail glass. Garnish
with a twist oflemon.
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SEE ALSO : Vilnius gin | GIN STYLE
Botanicals p39
Coriander seed p68
Juniper (common) p/37
> Vilnius gin, or Vilniaus Dzinas,wasadry
Sweet orange p2/6 gin made inthe city of Vilnius, Lithuania.
It was protected by a Geographic Indicative
Status awarded and enforced by the European
Union (EU). The protection formed part ofa
grandfather clause when Lithuania joined the
EU in 2004. In 2014, Vilnius gin lost its protected
geographical status when the distillery chose
not to submit a technical file to renew it. The
gin has since been renamed Mr Stacher’s. The
gin is made at the Vilniaus Degtiné Distillery,
which opened in 1907, although the gin was not
produced until the 1980s. It is flavoured by the
distillation ofbotanicals, includingjuniper,
dillseed, coriander and orange.

iv
238
 OOOOOOMOOOOOOOK

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SEEALSO Wormwood ARTEMISIA ABSINTHIUM | BOTANICAL

Botanical recipe p36

OOK
SO cous cm ann avs tun ncscnesiaaniversabetvanescos0ssvs apseccsvasescncersnyesjueesatessissrwccsvarecssiivacevs
Botanicals
p39 SOx
eee ree
Acollective term for herbaceous plants and
Red vermouthp797 shrubs of the genus Artemisia. With reference
to drinks, the main variety of interest is Grand
Wormwood (4rtemisia absinthium). This
is native to Europe, Asiaand North Africa.
The name “wormwood” comes from the fact
that the plant has
POCOOOOOOOOOOOOOK been used for more than
two thousand years as a worming agent and
> treatment for internal parasites. Wormwood is
_ akey ingredient inanumber of alcoholic drinks
suchas vermouth, the name of which has its
origins in the German word for wormwood,
vermut. Itis alsoa major component of absinthe,
where it is often distilled along witha variety of
other botanicals. Wormwood contains thujone,
achemical that was blamed for absinthe’s
psychedelic properties, one of the claims that
resulted in it being banned in 1915. Ingin,
wormwood is used as a botanical for products
suchas The Botanist and Elephant Gin, where
it adds an aromatic, woody note.

SEF ALSO Worshipful Company of

EanGuild 107 Distillers | s:srox
Founded in 1638, the Worshipful Company
of Distillers isa Livery company in the City
of London. It was set up by Sir Theodore de
 Mayerne, who was the physician to King
Charles I, in order to regulate the distilling
trade in the Cities of London and Westminster
and the surrounding areas. The heraldic motto
of the Company is “Drop as Rain, Distilas
Dew”. While the Company no longer regulates
the distilling trade, today it is made up of
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current members of the drinks industry and
the descendants of members of the industry
from years gone by. They organize a range of
drinks-related events throughout the year,
including a City debate where acurrent topic of
the drinks industry is discussed and anannual
tasting of Gold-medal-winning spirits from the
International Wine and Spirits Competition.
The Worshipful Company of Distillers is the
parent Livery Company of the Gin Guild.

240
SEE ALSO Xoriguer (Mahon) Gin | sxa«»
Aged ginp/5
Botanicals p39
Juniper (common) 7/37 The only dry gin that has a Geographical
Plymouth Ginp/78 Indication (GI) since the lapsing of the GIs
Pot distillationp782 for both Plymouth inthe UK and Vilnius in
Vapour distillationp234
Vilnius gin 238
Lithuania. By European Union law,agincan
only be called Xoriguer Mahon Gin if it is made
on the Mediterranean island of Menorca. The
history of the gin goes back to 1708, when the
British occupied the island before it was formally
ceded to them in 1713. The natural harbour of
Mahon became a major base for the British Royal
Navy. The popularity of ginamong the various
colonial officials and military personnelinthe
area led toa gin distillery being set up on the
island and that distillery is still open today. The
gin is based on wine alcohol and is made with
juniper berries and a selection of other secret
botanicals. The juniper is placed directly in the
pot still, while the other botanicals are placedin
a botanical basket and their flavours extracted
through vapour distillation. Unusually, the
vapour is recycled, so it passes through the
vapour basket several times, picking up more
of the botanicals’ aromaand flavour with every
pass. The ginis made using wood-fired copper
stills and, after distillation, is placed in large oak
barrels. These barrels have little impact on the
flavour, colour or aroma of the gin, but do allow
it to breathe.

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 —OOOOOOOOOOO

OOOOH

SEE ALSO Yellow gin | GIN STYLE

Aged ginp/5
Booth’s p34
Gin & Tonic p104 Asubcategory ofaged gin, yellow ginis inspired
Martinipl59 by how gin was stored and shipped in the 19th
Seagram’s 7198 century. At this time, gin was stored in wooden
Single Bottle Act 203
Sipping ginp207
barrels or casks, rather than glass bottles or
stainless steel containers. The casks would be
filled at the distillery and then shipped to the
public houses, where the gin would be served
straight from the barrel or blended with other
barrels to create a house style. Barrels were
used as they were watertight, relatively durable
and affordable. They could also be reused, as
longas they still held liquid. Any impact that
the barrel had on the flavour of the gin was
incidental. Barrels were eventually replaced
by glass bottles following the Single Bottle Act
of 1851, which enabled distilleries to sell gin
directly to consumers by the bottle. However,
finished ginand the neutral spirit to make gin
were still stored in barrels untilafter the
Second World War.
In the 20th century, two gins were released
that hada slight wood finishing: Booth’s Finest
(known as House of Lords inthe United States)
and Seagram’s Ancient Bottle Distilled Dry
Gin, released in 1939. Yellow gin was favoured
by writers suchas Kingsley Amis and David 243
Embury. They were designed to be mixed as
adry gin would be, for example in Martinis

WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
 and Gin & Tonics, but the effects of the wood
aging would make the flavours more mellow,
soft and more refined. Modern-day yellow
2 gins include Hayman’s Family Reserve and
» Citadelle Réserve.

SEE ALSO > Young Tom | susrox

Old Tom ginp/77
Old Tom gin, Origins ofp773 3 A mysterious style of gin that dates back to the
* mid-19thcentury and was possibly a stronger
and more expensive version of the more famous
Old Tom gin. Information on Young Tom is
limited, with only a mere handful of direct
references made to the style. In the 1836 Gin
Shop in Sketches by Boz (a pseudonym of Charles
Dickens), the writer describes large barrels in
agin shop:
“there are two side-aisles ofgreat casks, painted
green and gold, enclosed within a light brass rail
and bearing such inscriptions, as ‘Old Tom, 549,’
Young Tom, 360,’ ‘Samson, 1421’—the figures
agreeing, we presume, with ‘gallons,’ understood.”
The Young Tom barrel was easily the smallest,
which may point to the fact that it was the most
valuable spirit. An 1867 advert for Tuckers Wine
and Spirits Merchant at the Swan Tavern on Mile
End Road, London, heralds the sale ofYoung Tom
gin, which it describes as “much stronger than
his father Old Tom”. This is areference to the
stronger alcoholic strength of the Young Tom.
Atatime when gin was often adulterated or
diluted with things other than pure spring water,
the stronger the gin, the purer and the higher the
perceived quality. Another reference comes from
the transcript ofa court case from 1903: Boord’s
vs. Huddart. In the case, an old gin bottle label
Ve bookis given as evidence. It contains two labels:
244

one of Old Tom, showing an old man, and the

other, Young Tom, showinga young sailor.

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SEE ALSO < Yuzu CITRUS
X JUNOS | BOTANICAL

Botanicals p39
Grapefruit p/24
Lemonp/43
Asmall, Japanese citrus fruit that looks
Lime (Persian) p/48 somewhat like aminiature grapefruit witha
bumpy rind. The fruit originated in central
China and Tibet and was brought to Japan via the
Korean peninsula. It hasa slightly sour flavour
somewhat reminiscent ofa mix of lemon and
lime. The flesh of the fruit is fibrous and contains
seeds that are large relative to its size. Yuzucan
bejuiced, but the yield per fruit is low. Yuzuis
a popular botanical in Japanese gin because
OOOOOOKOK™

ofits close association with the country. When _

distilled, either the peel or the whole fruit is used.
MOOOOOOOM'

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OOOOOOOOOK

245

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 Att A\ { Va )» rr
A\WN LAWN

Cie y) ) a 4 uM an
a. ce
ae en | a

Ef 2D N\ \ ff.
,
|
SEE ALSO Zanzibar | cocxran
ABV p13
Dry vermouth p80
Glassware p179
First recorded in Harry Craddock’s 1930
Icepi35 book, The Savoy Cocktail Book, this cocktail
Navy strength ginp/67 is essentially a shaken Vermouth Sour which
Shaken/Shakingp207
nonetheless gives the ginan opportunity to
shine. It is particularly suitable as a pre-dinner
aperitif. Given that the ginis asmall proportion
of the overall drink, the final alcoholic
strength of the drinkis lower than many ofits
contemporaries; vermouth is typically only
around 20% ABV. With that in mind, anintense
gin, suchas anavy strength gin, can showcase
its flavours in this cocktail.

ZANZIBAR RECIPE

30M. / 1FLOz / DRY VERMOUTH

10M. / W%FLoz / NAVY STRENGTH GIN
10mMt / %FL0z / FRESH LEMON JUICE
1 PINCH OF CASTER SUGAR (OR TO TASTE)
2-3 DASHES OF ORANGE BITTERS

Place all the ingredients into a cocktail shaker filled

with ice, shake welland strain into acocktailglass.

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 Index
page numbers in /fa/icrefer to illustrations

A.
250 Britishjuniper (Juniperus
communis) 40-2,41
ABV 13 Burrough’s 42-3
aged gin 74,15
QOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK Bush gin 43
cor
Vv almond (Prunus dulcis
var. dulcis) 15-16
alpine 16, 77
anethole 16-19 Calamus (Acorus calamus)
angelica root (Angelica 45
archangelica) 18,19 Campari 44, 45-6
Angostura bitters 19-20 caraway (Carum carv1) 46,
anise camphor 16-19 47
Aussie gin 43 cardamom (£/ettraria
Aviation 20 cardamomum,
Amomum subulatum) 46-9
Carterhead still 48, 49-50
cassia bark (Cinnamomum
base spirit 21-2 cassta) 50-3,51
bathtub gin 22, 23 Ceyloncinnamon
bergamot orange (Citrus (Cinnamomum verum)
bergamia) 22-5 CFA
bitter almond (Prunus chamomile (Chamaemelum
dulcis var. amara) 24,25 nobile) 52,53
bitter lemon 26, 27,153 charge 54
bitter orange (Citrus x cilantro (Coriandrum
aurantium) 26—-9,174 sativum) 54-7,55
black cardamom (4Amomum cinnamon (Cinnamomum
subulatum) 46-9 verum) 56,57
black peppercorn (Piper citrus 58,59
nigrum) 28,29-30 citrus fruits, see by type
blended gin 30, 37 classic gin 58-61
blue ginger (4/pinia Clover Club 60, 61
galanga) 93 cloves (Syzygium
Bombay Spirits aromaticum) 62,63
Company 32, 33-4 cocktailingredients, see
Booth’s 34 by type
Borovi¢ka 35 cocktails, seeby name
botanical cuts 35-6 cold compounded gin
botanical recipe 36-9, 64
37 common gin 62-4
botanicals 38, 39 (see also common juniper (Juniperus
individual types) communis) 40-2, 41,136,
bramble 39-40 137-8"
 OOOOOOOOOOOO

compounded gin 64 fruit cups 90, 91-2 Green Chartreuse 125-6

contemporary gin 65 fruit gin 92 Greenall’s 126
contract distillers 66, 67 Guinea peppers
cordial gin 67-8 (Aframomum melegueta)
coriander 54-7, 55 722.193=4
coriander seed (Coriandrum galangal (4/pinia galanga)
sativum) 68,69 93
cream gin 70 garnishes 93-4,95
Creme de Geniéve 70-1 genever 94-7 Hendrick’s 127
Créme de Violette 71-3 Genever gin 94-7 herbal gin 127-8
cubeb berries (Piper cubeba) Gibson 96, 97 Hern6 128,729
72075 Gilbey’s 98 Hollands gin 131
cucumber (Cucumis sativus) Gimlet 98-100, 99 honey 730, 131-2
73-4
OOOOGin Act 1729 (UK) 100
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOIOH
OOOO
OOOO hybrid gin 132-3
A
Gin Act 1736 (UK) 101
Gin Act 1751 (UK) 101-3
OOOO
Gin & Cola 702, 103-4 x
diamond method 75 Gin & Tonic 104-7, 705 ice 134,135
Dirty Martini 75-6, 77 YOO
© Gin Guild 107 Italian vermouth 790,191
distillation 76 (see also gin house 206, 107-8
vapour distillation)
J
Gin Lane 108-10, 709
distiller 76-9 gin liqueurs 110
distillery 78,79 gin palace 111 Java pepper (Pipverc
dry vermouth 80 gin renaissance 7 ubeba) 72,73
Gin Rickey 111-13 jenever 94-7
ginstyles, seeindividual Jenny 84,85
styles juniper (common)
elder (Sambucus nigra) Gin Tonica 772, 113-14 (Juniperus communis)
81 Ginebra San Miguel 114, 775 40-2, 41, 136,137-8
English lavender (Lavandula ginger ale 116-17 juniper-forward gin
angustifolia) 142,143 ginger wine 117 58,139
ginger (Zingiber officinale) juniper (other species)
114-16 (Juniperus sp.) 136,
F Ginniver 119 138-9
filtration 8&2, 83 glassware 178, 119-20
Finsbury Gin 84, 85 Gordon’s 120-3, 727
fixatives 84-7 grains of paradise
flavour profiles 86, 87 (see (Aframomum melegueta) kaffir lime (Citrus hystrix)
also individual types) 122,123-4 156
floral 87-8 grapefruit (Citrus x paradist) Key lime (Citrus x
French 75 (cocktail) 88-91, 124-5 auranttifolia) 140,141
89 greencardamom (Z/ettaria Kina Lillet 746, 147-8
French vermouth 80 cardamomum) 49

$O00000000000000000000000000000000000000000000000
 DOOOO

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ox

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g
252
¥
: The Last Word 222-5,
224 Navy-strength gin 766, 167
lavender (Lavandula Negroni168, 769

g lemon
2
angustifolia) 142,143
(Citrus x Limon)
nutmeg (Myristica fragrans)
168-70
143-4
lemongrass (Cymbopogon
citratus) 144-7, 145
licorice root (Glycyrrhiza Old Tom gin 67, 171-3, 772
glabra) 147 origins of 173-4
Lillet 746, 147-8 orange (Citrus sinensis) 174
lime (Persian) (Citrus x orris root Uris florentina’)
latifolia) 148,149 174,175
Lime Rickey 111-13

He
limonene 148-50
linalool 150
liqueurs 110 (see also peppermint (Mentha x
by name) piperita) 176,177
London cut 151 Persian lime (Citrus x
London gin 151-3 latifolia) 148,149
Long Pedlar 153 pinene 177-8
louching 752, 153-4 pink peppercorn (Schinus
molle) 178,179
Plymouth Gin 178-81
pomelo (Citrus maxima)
maceration 155-6 180, 181-2
Mahon Gin, see Xoriguer pot distillation 182
makrut lime (Citrus hystrix) Prohibition 183
156 proofing 183
Martin Miller’s 156-9, 757
Martini 75-6, 77,158,
159-60 (see also by type)
Martini gadgets 160-3, 767 quininated gin 784,185
w (Filipendula ulmaria) 162, quinine (Cinchona
163 officinalis) 185-6
mint (Mentha sp.) 164 (see also
peppermint; spearmint)
mixers, see by name
mixology, see by type Rangpur lime (Citrusx
myrtle (Syzygium, Myrica, limonia) 187
Backhousia sp.) 164-5 rectification 187-8
Rectifiers’ Club 188
Red Snapper 188-91, 789 stirred/stirring274, 215 253
red vermouth 790,191 strawberry gin 215-16
redistilling 187-8 sweet orange (Citrus x wormwood (4rfemisia
rose (Rosa sp.) 192,193 sinensis) 174, 216-18, absinthium) 239
rosemary (Rosmarinus
SOOOOOOOOOOOOOHOOO”MOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOK
2i7 Worshipful Companyof
officinalis) 192-4 OO sweetening
the still 218 Distillers 239-40
rotovap 194-5
royal gin (Geneva) 195

|
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Ss Tahitilime (Citrus x latifolia)

148, 149
Xoriguer (Mahon) Gin 241

saffron (Crocus sativus) Tanqueray 219-21

196,197 terroir 220, 221
sage (Salvia officinalis) test still 222,223 yellow gin 242, 243-4
197-8 Thai ginger (Alpinia galanga) Young Tom 244
Sales of Spirits Act 1750 (UK) 93 yuzu (Citrus junos) 245
1O1=3 throwing 225-6
Seagram’s 198-201, 799 The Last Word 222-5, 224
Seville (Citrus x aurantium) tonic syrup 226
Zanzibar 246, 247
26-9, 174 tonic water 226-8, 227
shaddock (Citrus maxima) Transatlantic gin 228-9
180, 181-2 true cardamom (£/ettaria
shaken/shaking 200, 201-2 cardamomum) 49
signature botanical gin true cinnamon (Cinnamomum
202-3 verum) 57
signature serve 203
Single Bottle Act 203-4
single shot 204-7, 205
sipping gin 206, 207-8 Uganda Waragi 230, 231
sloe gin 208,209 umami 231-2
soda water 208-11

»
sour orange (C7trus x
aurantium) 26—9,174
spearmint (Mentha spicata) vacuum distillation 233
270, 211-12 vanilla (Vanilla planifolia)
spicy 212 234
spirits, see by name vapour distillation 234-7,
Spirits Duties Act 1735 (UK) 235 (see also distillation)
101 Vesper 236, 237-8
spontaneous emulsification Vilniaus Dzinas 238
152,153-4 Vilnius gin 238
star anise (//icitum verum) Volstead Act 183
B12=1 55273
 Acknowledgments
The author would like to thank the following
2 people for their help with this book: The Gin
Archive, Nicholas Cook of The Gin Guild, Aaron
J Knoll, Clayton and Ali Hartley, Queenie,
Tas, Joe Barber, Bernadette Pamplin, Cherry
Constable, Dr Anne Brock, Gin Miller, Julia
Nourney, Veronika Karlova, Jimmy Young,
—
Bobby Evans, Rosie the Bear, Ian Hart, Hilary
Whitney, Olivier and Julia Ward, Sarah Mitchell,
Adam Smithson, Unkie Des, Sam Carter,
100000000000000
Stephen Gould, Helen Cheshire, Jon Hillgren,
The Hayman Family, Sean Harrison, Davey
Wonder, Phil Duff, Jared Brownand Anistatia
Miller, Camper, Jake Burger esq., Geraldine
Coates, Tommy and Michael Haughton, Dave
Hughes, Alice Lascelles, Seb Hamilton-Mudge,
Charlie Maxwell, Henrik Hammer, Dan Szor,
Eric Zandona, Bill Owens, Dame Keli Rivers,
- Natasha Bahrami, Michael Vachon, Ben
> Ellefsen, Alan Stibbe, Martin Miller, Tempus
Fugit, The Bitter Truth, The Diageo Archive,
$000000000OOO00OOOOOOOOOOOOOC
DavidW Smithand JP Smith.

» Joe Cottington, Jonathan Christie, Polly Poulter,

Matthew Grindon and Megan Brownat Octopus;
. Joanna Smith and Corinne Masciocchi for their
editorial assistance; MFE Editorial Services
for the index; Stuart Patience for his fantastic
illustrations.

Finally a special thanks to Sara Smith without

whom the book would not be possible.
OOOOOKL
Vv

An Hachette UK Company

www-hachette.co.uk

First published in Great Britain in 2018 by Mitchell Beazley,

OOOOOOOOOX
adivision of Octopus Publishing Group Ltd
Carmelite House
50 Victoria Embankment
London EC4Y 0DZ
www.octopusbooks.co.uk
www.octopusbooksusa.com

Designand Layout Copyright © Octopus Publishing Group Ltd 2018

Text Copyright © David T Smith 2018
Illustration © Stuart Patience 2018
OOOOOOOOOOOOOOC 255
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Distributed in Canadaby
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Allrights reserved. No part of this work may be reproduced or utilized

inany form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including
photocopying, recording or by any information storage and retrieval
system, without the prior written permission ofthe publisher.

The right of David T Smith to be identified as the author of this Work has
LOCOOOOOOOOOOOKNK
been asserted by him in accordance with the Copyright, Designs & Patents
Act 1988.

ISBN 9781784723989

ACIP catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library.

Printed and bound inChina

10987654321

Commissioning Editor: Joe Cottington

Senior Editor: Pollyanna Poulter
Copy Editor: Joanna Smith
Creative Director: Jonathan Christie
Illustrator: Stuart Patience
Production Controller: Dasha Miller

9990900009
QO
OOCOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
OHOOOOOOOOOO
OD
00000
OOOO
 x
Q4

<
x
-
About the author

x
David T. Smith is an internationally renowned
‘ gin expert, judge and author. He chairs judging
panels for the American Distilling Institute and
the International Wine and Spirits Competition,
as wellas the Gin Masters competition.
Winner of the 2016 Think Gin award for best
communicator, David runs workshops on the
256
art of gin distilling as wellas the drinks website
Summer Fruit Cup.

QOOOQOOOOOOOOOOOOOODOOOOOOOOOWOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
=

(>
=
 Gin is the spirit of the moment, the
discerning drinker’s tipple of choice.
But with a gin revolution currently
sweeping the world, it has never been a
more fascinating — and complex - subject.

The Gin Dictionary is the gin-drinker’s

guide to this special spirit. With hundreds
of entries covering everything from history,
ingredients and distilling techniques to
flavour notes, cocktail recipes and the
many varieties of gin around the world,
award-winning gin expert David T. Smith
explores the key factors behind your drink.

=
UK£15 |us $20 |can $22

ISBN 978-1-78472-398-9

9 781784 Z. II
L
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