KNITTING SECTION
Process Flow Chart of Knitting
Yarn in Package Form
Place the yarn cone in the creel
Feeding the yarn in the feeder via trip tape positive feeding arrangement and tension device
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering
Information about Yarn Source and Product Mix
The sources of Yarn are as follows
a. Fair Trade b. NRG Spinning Ltd c. Asia Spinning Ltd. d. Padma Textile e. Arif Textile f. Viyellatex Spinning g. Fuad Spinning
h. Thermax Melange Spinning Mills Ltd.
1.1.1 The following types of yarn are used
Composition Cotton Cotton Spandex Yarn Grey Melange ( C-95% V-5%) CVC Cotton PC (65% Polyester 35% Cotton)
Type Card Comb
Dyed
Yarn Count 26s , 30 s 24 s , 26 s , 30 s 20D, 40D, 70D 20 s , 30 s 26 s 26 s ,30 s 24 s ,26 s ,30 s
Ply Single Single Single Single Single Single Single
Produce Fabric or product Mix
Single Jersey
a. Single jersey (Plain) b. Single Lacoste
c. Double Lacoste
d. Polo Pique e. Fleece fabric
Double Jersey
a. 1x1 Normal Rib
b. 1x1 Lycra Rib
c. 2x2 Normal Rib
d. Interlock fabric
Engineering Stripe Types of Collar: a. Tipping collar b. Plain collar c. Waist bend collar d. Picot collar e. Raising collar f. Racking collar g. Folding collar
Machine Description Of Knitting Section
Circular Knitting m/c description
M/c No. 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 Brand Name Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Terrot Origin Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Germany Model Year of Manu S 296-1 2006 S 296-1 2006 13P 372 S -296 I 1108 2006 2001 2006 Types of the m/c Single Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Double Jersey Double Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Dia No of (in Feeder inch) 30 96 30 36 30 36 30 26 26 30 24 96 84 96 130 54 84 84 96 72 Gauge 28 20 18 24 24 18 24 24 24 24 No of M/c rpm Needle Max Min 2640 25.2 20 2640 2x204 0 2256 2x271 2 2x168 0 1944 1944 2256 1800 25.2 25.2 25.2 20 20 20
RH-216 2001 S 296-1 2006 S 296-1 2006 S -296 NS/30 OF-PF 2001 2005
25.2 25.2 25.2 25.2 22
19.8 21.5 21.5 22 18
Well Knit Taiwan
11 12 13 14 15 16
Terrot
Germany
S -296 NS/30 OF-PF S -296
2001 2005 2001
Well Knit Taiwan Terrot Germany
Well Knit Taiwan Jumberca Jumberca Spain Spain
NS/30 2005 OF-PF SMIL-1 2006 SMIL-1 2006
Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Single Jersey Auto Stripe Auto Stripe
30 22 30 21 30 30
96 66 96 63 48 48
24 24 24 24 24 24
2256 1656 2256 1584 2304 2304
25.2 22 25.2 22 24 24
22 16 22 16 18 18
Flat Bed Knitting m/c Description
M/c No. 01 02 03 04 05 06 07 08 09 10 11 Brand Name Origin Model Year of Manu 2005 2005 2006 2006 2006 2006 2005 2005 2006 2007 2006 Type of the m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Computer Flat Knitting m/c Bed Length (in inch) 54 54 60 60 60 60 54 54 60 42 60 Feeder Gauge Head
KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER KAUO HENG KAUO HENG LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER LEADING TIGER
Taiwan Taiwan China China China China Taiwan Taiwan China China China
KH313 KH313 LL602 LL602 LL602 LL602 KH313 KH313 LL602 LL501 LL602
6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6 6
14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14 14
14
Single Single Double Double Double Double Single Single Double Single Double
5
14
12 13 14 15 16 17
LEADING TIGER MATSUYA MATSUYA MATSUYA MATSUYA MATSUYA
China Japan Japan Japan Japan Japan
LL501 M-100 M-100 M-100 M-100 M-100
2007 2001 2001 2001 2001 2001
Computer Flat 42 Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c Fully Automatic Flat Knitting m/c
6 6 6 6 6 6
14 14 14 14 14 14
Single Single Single Single Single Single
Others Machines in Knitting Section
a. GSM Cutter b. Electronic Balance
c. Fabric inspection m/c
Typical Parameter for Knit Section
For Circular knitting section
Fabric Type S/J S/J Open S/J Tube S/J S/J S/J S/J Tube S/J Tube Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Yarn Type Comb Comb Comb CVC Dyed Dyed Card Card Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Comb+Lycra Yarn Count 26s 26 s 26 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 30 s +40D 30 s +20D 24 s +40D 30 s +70D Stitch Length 2.84 2.80 2.86 2.90 2.84 2.84 2.76 2.86 3.0 2.61 3.05 3.0 GSM 160 160 160 170 140 165 140 160 240 220 260 240 Dia (in inch) 26 26 30 22 22 30 24 24 30 30 36 30 Gauge 24 24 24 24 24 28 24 24 18 18 18 18 Finish Dia(in inch) 60 52 31 23 23 72 25 26 30 30 36 30
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Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Lycra Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Normal Rib Single Lecoste SingleLecoste Single Lecoste Single Lecoste Double Lecoste Terry Fleece Interlock
Comb+Lycra Card +Lycra Card +Lycra Comb Comb Comb Card Card Card Card Card Card Gray Milange Gray Milange
26 s +40D 30 s +40D 26 s +40D 24 s 30 s 26 s 30 s 26 s 24 s 30 s 20 s 26 s 30 s +20D 30 s
3.05 3.0 3.05 2.90 2.64 2.76 2.56 2.62 2.70 2.70 3.20 2.65 2.70 1.70
240 240 250 240 175 230 180 200 220 220 220 210 240 220
36 30 36 36 30 36 30 24 30 30 30 30 30 36
18 18 18 18 18 18 18 24 24 24 20 24 20 24
36 30 36 72 64 72 68 42 78 78 80 43 60 72
For Flat bed section (collar & cuff)
Count 20 s 22 s 24 s 26 s 30 s 28 s (rarely used) 30 s(rarely used) Ply 3 3 4 4 4 4 5 Course/cm 27-28 28-29 25 26 27-28 28-29 27-29
Important Parameter and their effect in fabric production
a. Stitch Length b. GSM
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Stitch length increase with the increase of GSM If fabric width increase then stitch length increase and WPI decrease For deep shade stitch length should be higher and vice-versa
Gray GSM should be less than finish GSM GSM increase with increase of stitch length and it is adjusted by VDQ pulley Enzyme Level Colour Sueded or non-sueded If shrinkage increase then GSM increase
c. Count d. Gauge e. Feeder f. Design
If count increase then fabric width increase GSM depends on yarn count
For finer gauge finer count should be use If machine gauge increase then fabric width decrease If gauge decrease then stitch length increase
Production increase with increase no. of feeder Feeder is setted incase of stripe fabric
Cam setting Set of needle Size of loop shape
Quality Control Of Knitting Section
To produce high quality fabric it is necessary to inspect the fabric roll after receiving from different machine. This is done to assure the quality of the fabric before dyeing.
List of equipments used in inspection
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a. Inspection m/c b. Electronic balance c. GSM cutter
Inspection Procedure
As the fabric is produced by the circular knitting machine it is then collected by the quality inspector and the fabric is thoroughly inspected in front of a white light board. During this inspection the holes, oil marks, sinker marks, needle marks, barre effects are checked. If the fabric is within the acceptance level (by four point system) then it is sent to the batch section for dyeing or further treatment. In case of collar and cuff no inspection is done as the collars and cuffs are made in a very precise way by fully automatic or computerized machine.
Quality Standard
Interstoff Apparels Ltd. Follows the four point grading system to inspect the body & rib of the fabric. It is to mention that no inspection of collar or cuff is not done here as these are produce in a very precise manner. In the four point system the faults are found by inspection and are given points against the fault. Then the total no. is calculated. The following table shows the four point system. Size of defects 3 inches or less Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch Over 9 inch Four Point Grading System Penalty Points 1 2 3 4
Following Table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section at Interstoff Apparel Ltd. No. Faults Response
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1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10. 11. 12. 13. 14. 15. 16. 17. 18.
Needle Mark Stripe Barre mark Contamination and fly Slubs Thick thin place Birds eye Pin holes Wrong design Mixed yarn Sinker mark Missing yarn Holes Oil line/ stain Chemical Dirt stain Crease Line Uneven tension
Major needle line is rejected Major needle line is rejected Rejected Approved for colour but not for white shade 1 point is assigned 1 point Reject 1 Point 1 Point Reject Discuss with manager Major sinker mark is rejected Use 4 point Do Do Do Do Do Discuss with manager
Faults & their causes in knitting
A. Barre: This is basically a fabric fault which is found in the course wise. This is due to
Count variation in the same lot Shade variation in the dyed yarn Needle is too lose or tight in trick
B. Needle mark: This is a fabric fault which is found in the wales wise due to needle.
The reasons are Breakage of hook of needle Breakage of latch of needle Change of alignment of latch Due to improper schedule maintenance
C. Oil mark: This is a mark in the fabric due to oiling in the machine. Reasons are
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Too much oiling in the machine Leakage in the oiling system Bad quality lubricant is used Mixing of one quality lubricant with another one
D. Holes: This is a fabric fault which could be due to machine or yarn
Thick thin place in the yarn Too much tension of yarn Too much speed of the machine Defective needle
E. Slubs: This is a fabric fault due to projected fibres
More formation of fly from the yarn Bad quality of yarn use The air circulation system by the fan is not sufficient Fly could be come from the adjacent machine due to cleaning
F. Design Variation:
Variation of stripe in the machine Wrong cam arrangement
G. Count Variation:
Different count of yarn package in the same lot Different quality of yarn use in the same order
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Variation of count in the same package in different places Use yarn of another company for the same production
GSM Variation:
Variation in the stitch length Wrong position of the VDQ pulley Improper tension of the fabric during production Wrong selection of yarn count Others Contamination: Other than these there may be fault in the fabric due to dust of the area, impurities in the yarn, badly cleaned machine, impurities can be come from the operator hand due to splicing of yarn etc.
Collar Fault:
Loop formation Hole Due to yarn Needle mark Oil mark
Production Calculation
A. Production / shift in Kg at 100% efficiency
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B. Production/shift in meter
C. Fabric width in meter
D. GSM Calculation
1. =
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2.
=
=
E. Length calculation
Maintenance in the knitting section
For proper running of the machine it is necessary to maintain the machine. This is done by cleaning the machine after every 15-20 days. This is basically the servicing of the machine. This is done because To maintain the quality of the fabric To reduce the fabric fault Removal of dust from the machine Cleaning of different parts of the machine
During servicing the following things are checked weather they are in good condition or not. These are cleaned and also replaces if necessary. These are Needle Sinker Cam box Sinker Cam Cylinder
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Full body
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