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Penguin Potholder

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100% found this document useful (1 vote)
1K views24 pages

Penguin Potholder

Uploaded by

tutydemama
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
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LittleOwlsHut

www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Crochet
Pattern
By Svetlana Zabelina

Skill level: Easy


Penguin potholder
About this pattern Materials and Tools
I use USA terminology for my
pattern (don’t worry if you use You will need:
UK terms, all the differences are ü Yarn - Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi)
explained in the pattern). (225-250m per 100 g)
42 g of grey, 12 g of white, 4 g
Abbreviations of yellow, a small amount of
ch = chain black and green
inc = increase (2 sc in 1 st) ü Three green round buttons – I
dec = decrease (sc2tog) used 10-11 mm across
sc2tog = single crochet two stitches
together ü Hook – I used 2 mm crochet
hdc = half double crochet hook for the main parts and 1
rnd = round mm crochet hook for the
st(s) = stitch(es) pupils of the eyes
sl st = slip stitch ü Sewing needle
sc = single crochet
sc3tog = single crochet three
stitches together Yarn you may use
(xx) – count of stitches in this
row/round Cotton yarn Cotton yarn Cotton yarn RENE
( ) x N = repeat instructions in ‘Landysh’ CHARM (Vita (Alpina). 50 g/105
brackets N times (Troitskaya worsted Cotton) – 50 g/115 m, Sport / 5 ply (12
factory) – 50 g/115 m, Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi)
Finished size m, Sport / 5 ply (12 wpi)
Approx. 20 x 23 cm (7.8 x 9 wpi)
inches) using the materials
mentioned.
Happy
crocheting!
!
! !
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Tip (gauge) Tip (make it right)

When making potholders, you should use a much smaller hook than If there are no special notes, the
recommended for the yarn you choose. potholder is crocheted under
both loops. In some rows, there
are special notes: ‘into the front
loop only’ or ‘into the back loop
Tip (stitches) only’. In this case, you need to
follow those instructions.
If you are a beginner crocheter you can see “Appendix” at the end of
the pattern for reference how to crochet a particular stitch.

Tip (abbreviations)

If there is a record in the brackets in the pattern, multiplied by some


number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x 3, it means you need to repeat this
action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels


Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK Projects for first-time crocheters using
basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
ch - chain ch - chain
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
hdc - half double htr - half treble Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
crochet repetitive stitch patterns,
dc - double crochet tr - treble simple color changes, and simple
shaping and finishing.
tr - treble (triple dtr - double treble
crochet) Projects using a variety of techniques,
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble such as basic lace patterns or color
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Other differences in crochet terminology used:
Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
Terminology USA Terminology UK
techniques and dimension,
fasten off cast off such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
skip miss color techniques, fine threads, small
gauge tension hooks, detailed shaping and refined
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) finishing.

© 2020 Little Owl’s Hut. All rights reserved

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How to read this pattern


If you see Row 2: 6 inc (12 sts), ch 1, turn
Read it like this:
In second Row work 2 single crochet (inc) in next
st, repeat these instructions 6 times, make sure
you have crocheted 12 stitches in this row, chain
1 and turn your work.

(8 sts) – number in brackets is the count of


stitches in a row/round.

Note: ch 1 at the end of a row/round is not


counted as a stitch for the final count of stitches Ch 19 with grey yarn and work in rows starting
in a row. from 2nd ch from the hook:
When you see ch 1, ch 2 or ch 3, etc., at the end Row 1: 17 sc, 1 inc (19 sts), ch 2, turn
of the row, start the next row beginning from 2nd Row 2: 19 sc, (1 inc, 1 dc) in last st (22 sts), ch 3,
st from the hook. It is made to increase the turn
number of sts. Row 3: 23 sc, (1 inc, 1 dc) in last st (26 sts), ch
3, turn
Row 4: 27 sc, (1 inc, 1 dc) in last st (30 sts), ch
2, turn
Row 5: 30 sc, 1 inc (32 sts), ch 2, turn
Row 6: 32 sc, 1 inc (34 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 7: 33 sc, 1 inc (35 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 8: 34 sc, 1 inc (36 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 9: 35 sc, 1 inc (37 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 10: 36 sc, 1 inc (38 sts), ch 1, turn
Rows 11-22: 38 sc, ch 1, turn
Main part Row 23: 1 sc, 1 dec, 32 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (36 sts), ch
Work following the chart. See Appendix 1 for a 1, turn
better picture. Rows 24-26: 36 sc, ch 1, turn
Work in rows. Turn your work after each row. Row 27: 1 sc, 1 dec, 30 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (34 sts), ch
1, turn
Rows 28-30: 34 sc, ch 1, turn

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Row 31: 1 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (32 sts), ch


1, turn
Rows 32-37: 32 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 38: 1 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (30 sts), ch
1, turn
Rows 39-41: 30 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 42: 1 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc (28 sts), ch
1, turn
Rows 43-44: 28 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 45: 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec (26 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 46: 26 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 47: 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec (24 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 48: 24 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 49: 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec (22 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 50: 22 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 51: 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec (20 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 52: 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec (18 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 53: 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec (16 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 54: skip 1, 1 dec, 10 sc, sc3tog (12 sts), ch 1,
turn
Row 55: skip 1, 1 dec, 6 sc, sc3tog (8 sts), ch 1
Work a single crochet border evenly around the
potholder, sl st into the first sc. Ch 1, do not
fasten off. Mark the center top st with a scrap of
contrasting yarn to mark the place for the loop to
hang the finished potholder.
Work 1 round of crab st (see Appendix) around
the potholder, making the feathers and the
hanging loop at the top of the head as you go.

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Ch 8 for the second feather and work 7 sc back


along the chain starting from 2nd ch from the
hook. End with a sl st into the marked st (remove
the marker).

Chain 20-22 for the hanging loop, ending with a


Pause with the crab stitch when there are 2 sl st into the same st you started in.
stitches to the stitch with the marker and turn.
Ch 8 for the first feather and work 7 sc back along Ch 8 for the third feather and work 7 sc back
the chain, starting from 2nd ch from the hook. along the chain starting from 2nd ch from the
End with sl st into the next st. hook. End with a sl st into the next st.

Ch 8 for the fourth (the last) feather and work 7


sc back along the chain starting from 2nd ch
from the hook. End with a sl st into the same st.
Ch 1, turn and continue working crab st.

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Rnd 1: 1 inc, 9 sc, 4 sc in last ch, rotate and work


down the other side of the foundation chain: 9
sc, 1 inc (26 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1

Fasten off and weave in loose end.


Iron the potholder over with a wet cloth.

Rnd 2: [(1 inc, 5 sc) x 2, 1 inc] x 2 (32 sts), 1 sl st,


ch 1

Belly
Ch 12 with white yarn and work around the
foundation chain starting from 2nd ch from the
hook. It may be necessary to adjust the size of the
belly piece to fit your penguin. Keep this in mind
as you work the last couple of rounds, checking Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 11 sc, 2 inc, 11 sc, (1 inc, 1

the size against your penguin regularly. sc) x 2 (38 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1

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Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 11 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 11


sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) x 2 (44 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
Rnd 5: 4 sc, 1 inc, 16 sc, 3 inc, 16 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc
(48 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1

Rnd 10: (5 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc) x 3, 6 sc, (5 sc, 1 inc, 5


sc) x 3 (78 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
Rnd 11: (12 sc, 1 inc) x 3, (1 inc, 12 sc) x 3 (84
sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
Rnd 12: 5 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 26 sc, 1 inc, 10 sc,
1 inc, 26 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (90 sts), 1 sl st,
ch 1
Check that the belly fits nicely onto the penguin
before working round 13. Adjust by removing 1
or 2 rounds if necessary, then continue with Rnd
13 (working sc around only).
Rnd 13: 90 sc

Rnd 6: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 14 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 14 End with a sl st. Fasten off, leaving a long tail for

sc, (1 inc, 3 sc) x 2 (54 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1 sewing.

Rnd 7: (6 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 12 sc, 2 inc, 12 sc, (1 inc, Iron the piece over with a wet cloth. Find the

6 sc) x 2 (60 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1 right position for the belly and sew in place.

Rnd 8: (10 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 5 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 Make sure you place your stitches between the
sc, (1 inc, 10 sc) x 2 (66 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1 last two rounds of the belly piece.

Rnd 9: (6 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc) x 2, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, (6 Tip: When sewing pieces onto the potholder, do

sc, 1 inc, 6 sc) x 2 (72 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1 not insert the needle all the way through, just

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through the upper layer. It will keep the wrong


side neat.

Beak
Ch 4 with yellow yarn and work following the
chart of the description below, starting from the
2nd ch from the hook.
Row 1: 3 sc, ch 2, turn
Row 2: 3 sc, 1 inc (5 sts), ch 2, turn
Row 3: 5 sc, 1 inc (7 sts), ch 2, turn
Row 4: 7 sc, 1 inc (9 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 5: 9 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 6: 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec (7 sts), ch 1, turn
Work a single crochet border evenly around the
piece. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.

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Find the right position for the beak and sew in


place. Use the pictures as a guide. I placed the
top part of the beak 1 cm higher than the belly.

Eye (make 2) Rnd 1: 6 inc (12 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1


Ch 6 with white yarn, join with a sl st to form a Or work 12 sc into a magic ring, 1 sl st, ch 1
circle, ch 1 and work in joined rounds (do not
turn after each round). You might prefer to start
the eyes and pupils with a magic ring, or by
chaining 2 and working the first round into the
2nd chain from the hook. Choose the technique
that works best for you.

Rnd 2: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 (18 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1

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leaving a long tail. See the eye section above for


alternative ways to start the pupils.

Sew the pupils in place. Embroider a highlight


with white thread.
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 4 sc, 2 inc, 4 sc, (1 inc, 1
sc) x 2 (24 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
Rnd 4: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 2, 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, (1 inc, 1
sc) x 2 (30 sts), sl st
Fasten off. leaving a long tail.

Foot (make 2)
Ch 8 with yellow yarn and work around the
foundation chain starting from the 2nd ch from
the hook (do not turn after each round):
Rnd 1: 1 inc, 5 sc, 4 sc in last ch, rotate and work
down the other side of the foundation chain: 5

Find the right position for the eyes (see pictures) sc, 1 inc (18 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1

and sew in place. Make sure you place your Rnd 2: (1 inc, 3 sc) x 2, 2 inc, 7 sc, 1 inc (23 sts),

stitches between the last two rounds of the eye. 1 sl st, ch 1


Rnd 3: 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 2 inc, 9
sc, 1 inc (29 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
Pupils (make 2)
Rnd 4: 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 11
Use a smaller hook (I used 1 mm). Ch 3 with thin
sc, 1 inc (35 sts), 1 sl st, ch 1
black yarn and work 12 hdc into the 1st chain.
End with a sl st to form a circle. Fasten off,

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Work crab st around the piece. Fasten off, Start as for the left wing, leaving a yarn tail long
leaving a tail for sewing. enough for sewing only.
Work starting from 2nd ch from the hook:

Find the right position for the feet and sew in


place. Make sure you place your stitches between
the last two rounds of the feet (rnd 4 and crab st
rnd). When you reach the crab st edge on the
body, turn over and sew the other side of the foot
to the crab st edge of the body.

Row 1: 4 sc, 1 dec (5 sts), ch 1, turn


Row 2: 1 dec, 2 sc, (2 sc, 1 dc) in last st (6 sts),
ch 2, turn
Row 3: 5 sc, 1 dec (6 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 4: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc (6 sts), ch 2, turn
Row 5: 5 sc, 1 dec (6 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 6: 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 inc (6 sts), ch 1, turn
Rows 7-8: 6 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 9: 5 sc, 1 inc (7 sts), ch 2, turn
Row 10: 8 sc, ch 1, turn
Row 11: 7 sc, 1 inc (9 sts), ch 1, turn
Row 12: 7 sc, 1 dec (8 sts), ch 1, turn
Wings Row 13: 8 sc, ch 1, turn
For the left wing: Row 14: 6 sc, 1 dec (7 sts), ch 1, turn
Ch 7 with grey yarn, leaving a long tail at the Row 15: 6 sc, 1 inc (8 sts), ch 1, turn
beginning of your work (I left approximately 300 Row 16: 6 sc, 1 dec (7 sts), ch 1, turn
cm). You will use it later to finish the potholder. Row 17: 1 dec, 5 sc (6 sts), ch 1, turn
For the right wing: Row 18: 4 sc, 1 dec, ch 1, turn

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Row 19: skip 1, 1 dec, 1 sc, 1 inc (4 sts)


Fasten off the left wing only.

Make the right wing in the same way but do not


fasten off at the end of Row 19, ch 1, turn your
work and work single crochet along the curved
outer edge of the wing, ch 1 then work crab st
back along the same stitches. Fasten off, leaving
a tail for sewing.

Grab the tail of yarn you have left at the


beginning of your work and work single crochet
along the curved outer edge of the wing, ch 1 then
work crab st back along the same stitches. Fasten
off, leaving a tail for sewing.

Sew the wings in place. Use the next pictures as


a guide. Note that the top part of the wing is
attached on the wrong side of the potholder. The
bottom part of the wing is attached on the right
side of the potholder.

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Ch 5 and work a sl st. Ch 5.

Bow
Ch 6 with green yarn. Work 5 tr into the 1st ch
(see Appendix).

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Work 5 tr, ch 5 and work a sl st. Sew the bow in place using the next picture as a
Fasten off, leaving a long tail. Wrap the tail guide. Sew the buttons to decorate the belly.
around the center of the bow a few times. Secure
the yarn.

Your Potholder is ready!

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Appendix 1

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Appendix 2
STITCHES USED IN THE
PATTERN
Slip knot
Loop the yarn around your left index finger.
Continue to repeat the process to create more
chains.

Slip Stitch
Insert the hook in the next chain, yarn over and
Slip the yarn from your finger, and hold the loop pull the strand of yarn through the chain and the
between your thumb and index finger. loop on the hook.

Single Crochet
Insert the hook in the chain, yarn over, pull the
Use the crochet hook, held in your right hand, to strand of yarn through the chain, yarn over
draw the loop up and around the hook. again and pull the strand of yarn through both
loops on the hook. Starting from round 2 insert
the hook in the stitch of previous round.

Chain
Start with slip knot, yarn over, pull the strand of
yarn though the loop on your hook – you’ve got
one chain.

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Decrease
In the place where you need decrease pull up a
loop in next 2 stitches of previous round, yarn
Double crochet (dc)
over, pull the strand of yarn through all 3 loops
Yarn over, insert the hook in the chain or in the
on the hook, counts as one single crochet.
stitch of previous round and pull the yarn
through.

Increase
In the beginning (end or medium) of the row
make 2 single crochets in 1 stitch of previous
round.
Yarn over again and gently pull the wrapped
hook through the center of the first 2 loops on
your hook, yarn over again and draw your yarn
through the last 2 loops on the hook.

Half double crochet (hdc)


Yarn over, insert the hook in the chain or in the
stitch of previous round and pull the yarn
through. Yarn over again and gently pull the
wrapped hook through the center of all 3 loops
on your hook.

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Fasten Off Yarn Crab stitch (Reverse Single


When you get to the end of your crochet design Crochet Stitch)
and you’ll need to fasten off the yarn. Fastening Crab stitch is the most popular way to finish
off crochet is a fancy way to say “cut the yarn and the edge. For this stitch single crochets are
secure it.” worked not from right to left as usual but from
1. Cut the yarn about 15 cm (6 inches) from the left to right.
hook then using your hook, draw the cut end of 1. Finish crocheting and with the loop on
the yarn through the last remaining loop on your the hook do not turn, insert the hook in next
hook. stitch to the right moving the hook away from
you as the arrow shows.

Yarn over, draw yarn through stitch as the


2. Pull gently on the tail of yarn to snug up the arrow shows.
end.
This action keeps your work from coming apart
without having to make large unsightly knots.

Weaving in ends
When the work is completed it is necessary to 1. Yarn over, draw yarn through two loops

weave in all ends. on the hook as the arrow shows.

1. Thread one end through a tapestry needle


2. Weave the 15 cm (6 inches) tail of yarn up and
down through 3 or 4 stitches — kind of in a zigzag
pattern (try not to split the yarn of the stitches).
2. 1 crab stitch is made, the loop is on the
3. To make the end really secure go back the way
hook.
you came, weaving the end backwards through
those same few stitches.
4. Cut the yarn about 0.5 cm (1/4 inch) from the
fabric and gently pull the fabric. The end
magically disappears, and your work is secure.

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3. Repeat step 2.

4. Continue till the end of the edge. We get 1 sc out of three stitches.

Surface Slip Stitch (SSS)


Step 1: Hold the yarn on the wrong side of the
work; insert hook through the stitches; yarn
over and pull yarn to the right side.
Double decreasing Step 2: insert hook through the stitches again

Step 1: Pull up loops from next 3 stitches of the few mm from the previous stich, yarn over on

row. the back side and pull yarn through the fabric
to the right side and then through the loop on
the hook.
Repeat step 2 as many times as needed.

Step 2: Yarn over, pull the strand of yarn


through 2 loops on the hook. You should end up
with three loops on the hook.

You can always watch video on youtube.com.


Search for “How to Crochet: Surface Crochet”.

Tr (treble (triple) crochet)


Step 3: Yarn over again and pull the strand of A treble crochet (triple crochet) is made by
yarn through 3 loops on the hook. working two yarn overs at the start of the
stitch, instead of one yarn over as for double
crochet.

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1. Yarn over twice, insert the hook into the


work
2. Yarn over and draw yarn through,
pulling up a loop
3. Yarn over again and pull yarn through
the first two loops only on the hook.

4. Yarn over again and pull yarn through


the next two loops only on the hook.
5. Yarn over again and pull yarn through
the last two loops on the hook.

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Collect All of Zabelina’s decors or potholders crochet patterns

015 Snake 030 Bullfinch 034 Horse's 038 Snowman


head

039 Santa 042 Cupcake 046 Horse 050 Tilting


Claus dolls

051 Chickens 052 Paw 053 Sheep 065 Mr and Mrs


Sheep

066 Easter 067 Lady 070 Sweet 076 Sheep's


Eggs Chicken peppers Head

079 Baby 080 Monkey 087 Christmas 107 Bells


monkey tree
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108 Nutcracker 110 Stocking 112 Little 128 Rooster


and Mitten Chicken

143 Young 150 Ladybug 161 Dog Decor


Rooster 145 Butterfly

166 Dogs house 169 Puppy Dog 182 Christmas 202 Piglet
kennel Round Bauble

208 Yacht 218 Ship 240 Mice with 241 Mice


Wheel cheese

243
Chickens
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FREE Crochet Patterns at www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Dog Buffy Sheep Dolly Dog Lucky

Crochet patterns available for sale at Little Owl’s Hut


www.LittleOwlsHut.com

Christmas Giraffe bookmark Notes Sheep bookmark


tree Bookmark

Coming soon!
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Bird House Bull Cows Cows

Download the free “QR-


code APP” for your
iPhone/smart-phone and And much more at www.LittleOwlsHut.com
scan this code to take you
straight to our website.

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Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.

Tell me about your crocheting adventures, I would love to hear it.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/Littleowlshut

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Copyright notes: ©2020 Little Owl’s Hut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:

• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your work.

If you have an online or street shop where you sell items made from my patterns, you’re eligible to be
included in my list of LittleOwlsHut-designed toy sellers, and get some free publicity for your shop. It’s
100% free service to you! Please visit (www.LittleOwlsHut.com) for details on how to apply.

Text and images Copyright ©2020 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.


No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!

Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.

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www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comment: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

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