last revised: 05.

August 2023 Design by Stefanie Bold

find me at Ravelry as stebo79
find me at Instagram as @stefaniebold

Sneaker Socks Melanie

A friend inspired me to come up with a sneaker pattern that features a gentle "ballerina" style
where the cuff sits slightly deeper at the front. It took me a while to figure out all the little
details, but here you go!

Special features:
- doubled cuff and increases above back heel for a snug fit
- my newly unvented "lotus heel flap" where you work increases at the sides so you do
not have to pick up stitches later
- short row heel turn
- a "ballerina neckline" worked in rows

Techniques used:
- provisional cast-on
- lifted increases
- shadow wrap short rows
- grafting/kitchener stitch

The pattern is written needle neutral so all needle styles can be used (dpns, one or two
circular needles, flexi flips etc.). Please be aware that some stitches are shifted from instep to
sole.

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023
 Sneaker Socks Melanie - page 2 of 6

Sizes
My sizes are based on actual foot measurements and not on shoe size or gender. You will
need the foot circumference and the foot length. Measure around the ball of the foot for the
foot circumference. For foot length, it is best to trace the foot outline onto a piece of paper
and measure there. If you cannot get measurements (maybe you are knitting a surprise gift),
the following table also states typical shoe sizes. If you have experience in sock knitting, you
can also just follow the size with your needed stitch count. The foot length is adjustable.

foot circumference stitch count typical EU typical UK typical US typical US

sizes sizes W sizes M sizes

20 cm (7⅞ inch) 56 stitches 32-35 1-3 1.5Y-3.5Y 1.5Y-3.5Y

21,5 cm (8.5 inch) 60 stitches 36-39 3.5-6 5.5-8 4-6

23 cm (9 inch) 64 stitches 40-43 6.5-9 8.5-11 6.5-9

24,2 cm (9.5 inch) 68 stitches 44-45 9.5-11 11.5-13 10-12

25 cm (10 inch) 72 stitches 46-49 11.5-14 13.5-16 12.5-15

(sizes are calculated with 15% negative ease in circumference)

Gauge
10 cm (4 inch) = 33 stitches and 46 rounds
Please note that this gauge is different from my previous patterns.

Material
4ply sock yarn
needles of your choice size 2,25 mm (US 1) or as needed to obtain gauge
4 stitch markers
optional: locking stitch markers for beginning of round and/or counting
any material needed for provisional cast-on, including additional needles for joining the live
stitches

Abbreviations
note: instructions assume a right-handed knitting style. If you knit left-handed/mirrored, you
need to “mirror” the instructions, too (like, swap left and right).
LLI = left leaning lifted increase = with left needle pick up the loop 2 rows below the stitch on
your right hand needle from the back and knit it through the back loop
RLI = right leaning lifted increase = with right hand needle pick up the loop below the next
stitch from the back and put it on the left hand needle, then knit it
LLIpurl = left leaning lifted increase on purl side = with left hand needle pick up the loop 2
rows below the stitch on your right hand needle from the front and purl it
RLIpurl = right leaning lifted increase on purl side = with right hand needle pick up the loop
below the next stitch from the front and put it on the left hand needle with the left “leg” at the
back, then purl it

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023
 Sneaker Socks Melanie - page 3 of 6

SWK = shadow wrap at end of knit row = RLI, sl 1 to left needle, turn.
SWP = shadow wrap at end of purl row = sl 1 to right needle with yarn in front, LLIpurl, turn,
sl 2. note: this side tends to get a bit loose. to counter, increase tension on next 1-2 sts.
After working a shadow wrap, there are two loops on your needle. Those loops will be
worked together in the next row or round.
k2tog = knit the next 2 stitches together
p2tog = purl the next 2 stitches together
ssk = slip the next 2 stitches knitwise separately, then knit them together through the back
loops

Instructions
CUFF
Please note: due to the "ballerina neckline", the cuff has more stitches than usual.

Using a provisional cast-on, cast on 62(66, 70, 74, 78) stitches. Join into the round without
twisting the stitches. If you used waste yarn, knit 1 round with main color.

Knit 8 rounds.

Now the cast-on and live stitches are joined. There are several possibilities on how to
manage the stitches from the cast-on side. You can use extra needles and undo the
provisional cast-on first, then join all stitches. Or you can undo one stitch at a time and join it.
Or if you have one spare dpn, you can undo some of the stitches and join, then repeat until
done. I am describing the method where you first undo the complete provisional cast-on, then
join all stitches.

Undo the provisional cast-on and put the stitches onto separate needles. Fold the cast-on
stitches to the live stitches with the knit side facing out. Knit one live stitch together with one
from the provisional cast-on until you all stitches are joined. Now you still have 62(66, 70, 74,
78) stitches.

Knit 1 round.
Hint: If you want a contrast colored cuff, now is the time to cut the yarn leaving a tail and
continue with your main color.

LOTUS HEEL FLAP

I unvented this method to avoid picking up stitches at the side of the heel flap. I tweaked the
technique until the fabric was very smooth, like a lotus leaf. Hint: my SWPs tend to get looser
than the SWK ones. To counter, work the next knit stitch with a higher tension.

Rearrange your stitches: the next 22(24, 26, 28, 30) stitches are used for the heel. Place the
rest onto separate needles and ignore.

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023
 Sneaker Socks Melanie - page 4 of 6

Row 1: Knit 7(8, 9, 10, 11), LLI, place marker, knit 8, place marker, RLI, knit to 2 before end,
place marker, RLI, knit 1, SWK.
Row 2: Purl to 2 stitches before end, place marker, RLIpurl, purl 1, SWP.
Row 3: Knit to second marker, LLI, slip marker, knit to marker, slip marker, RLI, knit to
marker, slip marker, RLI, knit 1, SWK.
Row 4: Purl to 4th marker, slip marker, RLIpurl, purl 1, SWP
Row 5: Knit to second marker, LLI, remove marker, knit to marker, remove marker, RLI, knit
to marker, slip marker, RLI, knit 1, SWK.
Row 6: Purl to second marker, slip marker, RLIpurl, purl 1, SWP
Now there are 24(26, 28, 30, 32) stitches between the markers.

Row 7: Knit to second marker, slip marker, RLI, knit 1, SWK.

Row 8: Purl to second marker, slip marker, RLIpurl, purl 1, SWP
Repeat rows 7-8 9(10, 11, 12, 13) times more. When working the last repeat, remove
markers in the purl row.

Checkpoint: You have worked a total of 26(28, 30, 32, 34) rows and there are 13(14, 15, 16,
17) pairs of shadow wrap stitches at each side.

HEEL TURN
The heel turn features short rows with shadow wraps.

Row 1: Knit 22(23, 25, 26, 28), SWK

Row 2: Purl 16(16, 18, 18, 20), SWP
Row 3: Knit to shadow wrap, knit both loops together, SWK.
Row 4: Purl to shadow wrap, purl both loops together, SWP.
Repeat rows 3-4 4(5, 5, 6, 6) times more.

BALLERINA NECKLINE
This part is also worked in rows. There are several things going on. You can skip the
following explanation and just work as written if it is too much information for you.
You are working in rows now and joining stitches onto the cuff, like a heel flap on toe-up
socks. Then you are working short rows using stitches from the instep, avoiding a sharp
corner between sole and instep. At the same time, gusset decreases are worked and later
continued in the gusset section.

Rearrange your stitches: at each side, move 6 stitches from the instep to the sole. Now you
have 28(30, 32, 34, 40) stitches on the instep and 66(70, 74, 78, 82) stitches on the sole
(count the shadow wraps as one stitch only). Reminder: When working over the shadow
wraps, work both loops together.

Row 1: Knit until 10 loops left on the sole (that is 6 stitches and two shadow wraps), place
marker, knit the next two loops together, slip the next two loops together knitwise, slip 1
knitwise, knit the 3 slipped loops together through the back loop. Turn.

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023
 Sneaker Socks Melanie - page 5 of 6

Row 2: Slip 1 with yarn in front, purl until 10 loops left on the sole (that is 6 stitches and two
shadow wraps), place marker, purl the next 2 loops together, purl the next 3 loops together.
Turn.
Now there is a gap where you turned without a wrapped stitch. The stitch before and after
this gap are now worked together.
Row 3: Slip 1 with yarn in back, knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before
marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit 1, ssk, turn.
Row 4: Slip 1 with yarn in front, purl to second marker, slip marker, purl 1, p2tog. Turn.
Repeat rows 3-4 3 times more.

Row 11: Slip 1 with yarn in back, knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before
marker, k2tog, slip marker, knit 1, ssk. Instep: Knit 1, SWK.
Row 12: Instep: Purl 1. Sole: Purl to second marker, slip marker, purl 1, p2tog. Instep: Purl 1,
SWP.
Row 13: Instep: Knit 1. Sole: Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker,
k2tog, slip marker, knit 2. Instep: Knit 1, knit both loops of shadow wrap together, knit 1,
SWK.
Row 14: Instep: Purl 3. Sole: Purl to end. Instep: Purl 1, purl both loops of the shadow wrap
together, purl 1, SWP.
Row 15: Instep: Knit 3. Sole: Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker,
k2tog, slip marker, knit 2. Instep: Knit 3, knit both loops of the shadow wrap together, knit 1,
SWK.
Row 16: Instep: Purl 5. Sole: Purl to end. Instep: Purl 3, purl both loops of the shadow wrap
together, purl 1, SWP.
Row 17: Instep: Knit 5. Sole: Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker,
k2tog, slip marker, knit 2. Instep: Knit 5, knit both loops of the shadow wrap together, knit 1,
SWK.
Row 18: Instep: Purl 7. Sole: Purl to end. Instep: Purl 5, purl both loops of the shadow wrap
together, purl 1, SWP.
Row 19: Instep: Knit 7. Sole: Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker,
k2tog, slip marker, knit 2. Instep: Knit 7, knit both loops of the shadow wrap together, knit 1,
SWK.
Row 20: Instep: Purl 9. Sole: Purl to end. Instep: Purl 7, purl both loops of the shadow wrap
together, purl 1, SWP.

Only for size 68 and 72 stitches:

Row 21: Instep: Knit 9. Sole: Knit to marker, slip marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker,
k2tog, slip marker, knit 2. Instep: Knit 9, knit both loops of the shadow wrap together, knit 1,
SWK.
Row 22: Instep: Purl 11. Sole: Purl to end. Instep: Purl 9, purl both loops of the shadow wrap
together, purl 1, SWP.

Checkpoint: There are 36(40, 44, 46, 50) stitches on the sole.

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023
 Sneaker Socks Melanie - page 6 of 6

GUSSET
For the remaining sock, you are going to work in rounds.
Set-up: Knit to end of instep. You are now ready to work the sole. This is the new beginning
of your round. Place a (lockable) marker if desired.
Round 1: Sole: Knit 2, remove marker, ssk, knit to 2 stitches before marker, k2tog, remove
marker, knit 2. Instep: (knit to shadow wrap, knit both loops of the shadow wrap together)x2,
knit to end.
Round 2: Knit to end.
Round 3: Sole: Knit 2, ssk, knit to 4 stitches before end, k2tog, knit 2. Instep: Knit to end.
Repeat rounds 2-3 2(3, 4, 4, 5) times more. Now there are 56(60, 64, 68, 72) stitches in total,
28(30, 32, 34, 36) each on sole and instep.

FOOT
Continue knitting in rounds until it is time to work the toe. The toe adds 16(16, 18, 18, 20)
rounds. At my gauge, that is 3,5(3,5; 4; 4; 4,5) cm / 1 ⅜ (1 ⅜; 1 ½; 1 ½; 1 ¾) inch. Stop
working when your sock is this amount shorter than the foot length.
Note: I generally use a wedge toe because my toes are short. Of course you are free to use
your preferred toe. Compare the rounds of your toe against your version and adjust the foot
length as needed.

TOE
Round 1: Sole: Knit 1, ssk, knit to 3 stitches before end, k2tog, knit 1. Instep: Knit 1, ssk, knit
to 3 stitches before end, k2tog, knit 1.
Round 2: Knit to end.
Repeat rounds 1-2 7(7, 8, 8, 9) times more. Now there are 24(28, 28, 32, 32) stitches left.

FINISHING
Cut yarn leaving a tail of at least 50cm (half a yard). Close the toe by grafting the stitches in
kitchener stitch. Bring all ends to the inside and weave them in. Make a second sock -
matching colors is optional.

You can find more of my designs in the following places:

Ravelry LoveCrafts

It took a lot of time, effort and passion to create this pattern. Please honor this by respecting the
copyright. You can work as many items as you like for personal use, but you are not allowed to gift or
sell copies of this pattern, be it on paper or as a digital file. Also, it is prohibited to upload the pattern
to any internet platform! This also applies to patterns free of cost. © Stefanie Bold, 2023