Q2 Quickie Construction Manual

The QUICKIE Q2 kit, properly constructed, will reproduce the successful

original QUICKIE Q2 designed, and tested by QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION.
QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION is not responsible, and makes no warranties,
express or implied whatsoever, regarding the structural integrity,
performance, flight characteristics, or safety of the Buyer's completed
aircraft and its component parts. QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION has no control
and assumes no control over the Buyer's ability to successfully construct and
test the QUICKIE Q2 AIRCRAFT. Buyer expressly waives any and all claims
arising from structural integrity, performance, flight characteristics,
mechanical failures, and safety against QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION. Buyer
acknowledges awareness of the risks of flying a homebuilt aircraft. Buyer
acknowledges that the FAA must inspect the aircraft at construction intervals,
as well as the completed project, prior to flight and should work with his
local FAA representative regarding the construction and licensing of the
aircraft.
..
QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION reserves the right to make recommended revisions
in the plans and construction of the aircraft at any time without liability to
QUICKIE AIRCRAFT CORPORATION, as such revisions or changes may be deemed
advisable from time to time.

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 Q2 Plans – Appendix Page i

TABLE OF CONTENTS

CHAPTER TITLE NO. OF PAGES NO. OF SHEETS

SECTION I

1 DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION 3 2

2 BILL OF MATERIALS 1 1

3 COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION 23 12

4 INDIVIDUAL PART CONSTRUCTION 2 1

5 HOT-WIRING 4 2

AILERONS, RUDDER, AND

6 3 2
ELEVATORS CONSTRUCTION

7 VERTICAL FIN CONSTRUCTION 2 1

8 BASIC FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY 5 3

9 MAIN WING CONSTRUCTION 9 5

10 CANARD CONSTRUCTION 10 5

WHEEL PANT/TIRE/WHEEL/BRAKE
11 6 3
ASSEMBLY

12 MAIN WING AND CANARD MOUNTING 3 2

13 CANOPY ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING 4 2

14 FUSELAGE DETAIL ASSEMBLY 10 5

- APPENDIX SHEETS 1 THRU 6 6 6

SECTION II

15 MAKING YOUR Q2 TRAILERABLE 2 1

16 ENGINE INSTALLATION 6 3

17 FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION 3 2

INSTRUMENT AND PITOT-STATIC

18 1 1
SYSTEM INSTALLATION

19 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM 1 1

20 COMPLETING YOUR Q2 5 3

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 ADDITIONAL Q2 DOCUMENTATION

DATE OF
TITLE CONTENTS FIRST
PUBLICATION

Q2 Pilot's Manual Flight and maintenance manual includes 1 May, 1981

normal and emergency procedures, weight
and balance, check lists, detailed flying
qualities descriptions, operating
limitations, performance charts, first
flight test procedures, pilot checkout
procedures, and systems descriptions.

Quickie Newsletter Published quarterly (Jan, April, July, 25 May, 1978

and October); includes plans changes,
builder tips, options, current and future
developments, and dates and information
on future seminars.

Q2 Information Provides general information on the Q2, 9 February,

Package including performance, construction 1981
techniques, and a poster.
Quickie & 'Q2 Provides an education in the techniques 8 April,
Composite Materials required in the building of a Q2. 1981
Introductory Includes a booklet, and sufficient
Package materials for several suggested projects.
Somewhat redundant with Chapter 3 of the
Q2 Construction Plans.

Q2 Plans - Appendix Page ii

Q2 PLANS ADDENDUM

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 Q2 Builder Tip Notices (Q2BT9) are intended to provide clarification,
guidance, improved construction methods, and helpful hints of a non-
mandatory nature. The builder, at his discretion may use or discard
any Q2BT. Most are a result of work accomplished at Quickie Aircraft
Corporation building a Q2 from the Q2 Construction Plans. Any
questions on a Q2BT notice should be referred to Quickie Aircraft
Corporation. Each Q2BT has a number and a publication date along with
a description of the builder tip.

NUMBER DATE DESCRIPTION

Q2BT9 1 July, 1981 Q2 CONSTRUCTION PLANS -

SECTION I: Some plan sets sent
out may have faint re-
production on parts of pages
9-8, 10-1, 10-2, 10-3, 11-4,
14-2, and Appendix Sheet 4. We
intend to have those sections
reprinted within 30 days. We
will send the reprinted sheets
to any builder who reports
this problem.

Q2 Plans Change Notices (Q2PC9 & Q2PC10) are mandatory revisions to

the Q2 plans. Each Q2PC has a number and a publication date along
with a description of the change. All Q2PC notices should be
incorporated into the builder's set of Q2 Construction Plans
immediately upon receipt by the builder. Any questions on a Q2PC
notice should be referred to Quickie Aircraft Corp.

NUMBER DATE DESCRIPTION

Q2PC9 1 July, 1981 Q2 GROUND ANGLE OF ATTACK:

With the aircraft assembled
and WL15 level, and with the
aircraft on a reasonable level
floor, take a measurement
vertically between the floor
and the bottom of the
tailwheel. The nominal
measurement should be 27". A
range from 25" to 28.6" should
be Acceptable. This limitation
is to assist tailwheel first
landings and
three point takeoffs at
mid/forward c.g. Small change
can be effected by changing
the tailwheel diameter. It is
a good idea to delay mounting
the tailspring until the
aircraft is assembled, so that

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 the proper height can be
achieved.

Q2PC10 1 July, 1981 ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION, P-

16-2 does not indicate the
required spacer. The material
is 4130 steel, or mild steel
of 1/2" 0.0. x 3/8" 1.0. The
sketch indicates the location
of this QEM5 spacer (4
required).

ii

Q2 Plans - Appendix Page iii

NUMBER DATE DESCRIPTION

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 Q2BT11 21 August, MASS BALANCING ELEVATORS. In
1981 preparation for testing on
turbocharged Revmasters and
possible A-65 thru C-85
installations, we have further
explored the very high speed area
of the Q2 operating envelope. We
have found that mass balancing the
elevators improves the ride
qualities at high speed. Therefore,
we are supplying to all builders
the drawings and hardware to mass
balance all Q2 elevators, and
recommend this before first flight.
See pages...for details.

ELEVATOR MASS BALANCING

.....Locate the two Q2CSA11 arms and the molded lead weights.
.....These elevator mass balance arms can be retrofitted to the elevator
control system even after the canard has been mounted to the fuselage.
This will allow a closer clearance with the fuselage sides and maximize
the available legroom. If the mass balance arms are installed prior to
mounting the canard, careful measurements must be made to assure
clearance with the fuselage sides.
.....Begin by attaching a molded lead weight to each Q2CSA11 as shown.
.....Next, remove the two bolts holding CS20 in position, and slide it
outboard through the CS14 phenolic bearing until a Q2CSA11 arm can be
slid onto the tube with the lead weight projecting forward. Reinstall the
bolts holding CS20 in position.
.....Then remove the three bolts securing Q2CSA8 and slip it inboard
until the second Q2CSA11 arm can be slid on the outboard end inward with
the lead weight projecting forward. Reinstall the bolts holding Q2CSA8 in
place.
.....Locate the Elevator Rigging template and jig the elevator in the
full trailing edge up position. With the elevator in this position, each
Q2CSA11 should be almost resting on the canard upper surface just inboard
of the fuselage. Note the piece of felt called out as a bumper stop. The
Q2CSA11's are located as far outboard as practical so as not to interfere
with pilot or passenger legroom. Verify that when the elevator is rotated
to full trailing edge down position, that the arc of each Q2CSA11 clears
the fuselage and all other components.

.....Finally, return the elevator to the full trailing edge up position

with each Q2CSA11 resting almost on the canard, and drill in the one AN3-
12A bolt per side to attach the Q2CSA11's to Q2CSA8 and CS20.
.....Leave the CS13 pitch control arm unattached from Q2CSA8, and remove
the two AN4-11A bolts attaching the universal joint to Q2CSA8 and CS20.
Remove the universal joint so that each elevator can rotate independently
of the other. Make sure that you have lubricated all of the bearing and
hinge points to reduce the system friction to a minimum. It is desirable
for each elevator to balance at 0 degrees to 2 degrees trailing edge up
with all painting and finishing complete. Remove lead, as necessary from
the molded lead weight until that position is reached. Each elevator
should rotate freely about the hinge points when given a slight nudge.

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 Failure of this check means that the pivots are too tight and must be
adjusted for minimum friction.
.....Once the amount of lead weight on each elevator has been adjusted,
bolt the entire pitch control system together and check for friction,
excess play, and interferences.

iii

Q2 Plans - Appendix Page iv

NUMBER DATE DESCRIPTION

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 Q2BT12 21 August, 1981 IMPROVED BRAKING EFFECTIVNESS. We
have determined that a single pull
brake handle modulating both main
gear brakes simultaneously is
superior in nearly all situations
to the standard toe brakes.
Materials and drawings are
available for retrofit for all
builders returning their unused
Q2BSW1's & two AN210-1A pullies to
QAC. Current kit shipments
incorporate this modification as
standard.

Development work continues on a

set of retrofittable hydraulic
disc brakes, which may be
available as early as October,
1981. Those builders not ready to
fly before then may wish to wait
and decide whether they wish to
retrofit that system instead.

SINGLE PULL BRAKE HANDLE INSTALLATION

.....This section replaces the original section on installing the Brake
Pedals (Q2BSW1's) and four inboard pulleys. In place of the individually
controlled toe brakes, a single pull handle has been incorporated on the
left side of the cockpit.
.....Begin by fabricating BS3 and BS5 from the 0.125" thick Aluminum and
BS4 from 1/4" plywood.

(see next page for drawing)

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 .....BS4
is mounted in position with flox and 2 BID tapes to the top of the fuel
tank near the left side console. Position the BS4 so that the handle
will be an easy and comfortable reach for the pilot and so it will not
interfere unnecessarily with pilot comfort.

.....Next, install the Brake Handle as shown in the sketch.

.....The Brake Equalizer is used to help proportion braking

effectiveness equally. The turnbuckle assembly on the left side must be
attached directly to BS5 because of the proximity of the cable to the
left elevator slot foam core. The turn buckle for the right side can be
mounted in the system outboard of the Canard shear web pulley.

The two BS3 Canard shear web pulley mounts shown on page 11-4 must be
modified in location for the proper angles.
The cable routing is from the BS5 Brake Equalizer around the two pulleys
on the canard shear web, and then outboard through the Elevator slot
foam cores as originally indicated.....

The turnbuckles are adjusted to provide equal braking on each wheel.

iv

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 Q2 Plans - Appendix Page v

Q2 Plans - Chapter 1 - Page 1-1

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 DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION

DESCRIPTION AND INTRODUCTION: The Q2 is a high performance, homebuilt

aircraft. Its compact external size and extremely efficient design
results in superb performance and unequalled fuel economy using a low
horsepower engine. Inside, it provides side-by-side seating comfort
for a pilot up to 6'8" tall and 250 lbs, plus passenger, as well as
some baggage in the roomy compartment behind the seat. Its canard
configuration was designed not only for performance, but to provide
improved flying qualities and safety as compared to the conventional
light plane.
.....The origin of the Q2 dates back to 1977. Although the Q2 has
much in common with the QUICKIE, considerable progress has been made
since that earlier effort. As a result, the Q2 has lower drag than
any other two place aircraft available to the public. Likewise, it
has proven to be the most fuel efficient two-place aircraft ever
offered to the public.
.....The Q2's high-lift canard (forward wing) is fitted with a plain
elevator that controls the aircraft's pitch attitude. The canard also
serves as the main landing gear spring since the main gear is mounted
on the tips of the canard. This feature results in a remarkably
smooth ride as well as outstanding ground stability during taxiing,
takeoff, and landing.
.....Roll capability is provided by ailerons on the inboard position
of the main wing.
.....Yaw control is provided by a rudder mounted on the vertical fin,
and is actuated by conventional rudder pedals.
.....The pitch and roll capability is provided by a side stick
controller in the center of the cockpit. This feature permits precise
control of the Q2 while reducing pilot fatigue and cockpit clutter.
.....Optional dual controls provide the option of pilot checkout and
instruction.
.....The tail wheel is actuated directly from the rudder pedals,
without any springs, thus providing positive steering at all times
while on the ground.
.....Since the tail wheel is not raised on takeoff roll like other
tail draggers, this positive steering is available until the aircraft
is airborne, making for very safe takeoff and landing
characteristics.
.....Even though the Q2 has low horsepower, it can outperform most
general aviation aircraft while retaining unequalled fuel economy.
The maximum speed is actually faster than most retractable gear
aircraft, such as the Piper Arrow, and the fuel economy exceeds
60 miles per gallon.
.....The Q2 obtains this remarkable performance without resorting to
retractable landing gear, without flaps, without turbochargers, and
without variable pitch propellers.
.....Further, the Q2 was designed to be built by the inexperienced
builder, so these Q2 Construction Plans and the Q2 kit contents have
been developed for ease of construction. Construction time should
require only 500 man hours spread over less than one year of the
builders spare time, with no special tools required.

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 .....The composite structure of your Q2 provides some important
advantages over conventional metal, wood, or fabric construction. It
has been tested to loads far in excess of those required for FAA
certification. Fatigue margins are higher. Contour is maintained
under load, the structure does not "oil can," buckle, or distort. It
provides excellent insulation and damps noise. It has no hidden
joints, no water traps, and is far less susceptible to corrosion.
It is easier to inspect, more redundant and easier to repair. It is
not susceptible to thermal stress due to temperature changes.
Properly protected from UV, it has an unlimited life.

Perspective

.....The builder of an amateur-built aircraft is the manufacturer; he

is responsible for quality control on all parts, all construction,
and the conduct of his flight tests. While Quickie Aircraft
Corporation is not the manufacturer of your aircraft, we do, through
these plans and services, provide you with information about how our
Q2 was built and what we feel is the best way for you to build a
safe, reliable airplane. We do encourage you. to build the airplane
as shown on the plans because we have found that our airplane
provides us with reliability and safety, and any problems that we
experience with our aircraft are documented and reported in "The
Quickie Newsletter". We have gone to a considerable effort in
developing the design, the structure, and the systems, and proving
their adequacy with appropriate tests.
.....If you modify the airplane and then ask us if your modification
will work, we cannot give you an answer without conducting the
appropriate tests and totally qualifying the modification. This would
obviously be quite expensive. Our concern then, is that if your
modification is not successful, and causes an incident or accident,
this would be attributed to our design, the Q2. Because of this, we
must insist that if you modify the airplane with any major change
such as an aerodynamic change, primary structural change, or using a
non-approved engine installation, that you call your airplane a
different name, rather than a Q2. If you make a major change, you
must consider yourself involved in basic aircraft design and
development, an extremely risky business. As such it is not fair for
us to be associated with any results of your development. We state
this, not to discourage inventiveness and progress, but to release
any connection of your new development efforts with our proven
design, the Q2.
.....We are particularly concerned about individuals using alternate
engines to power their Q2's. The Q2 was designed around the engine;
any change would require an exhaustive test program to determine not
only the new engine's suitability as an aircraft power plant, but
also its suitability as a Q2 power plant.
.....These Q2 Construction Plans have been specifically designed to
educate you in the construction materials, their use, and to guide
you through each step of assembly in the most efficient manner
possible. It is our intent to drastically reduce the non-completion
rate* common to homebuilt aircraft. With that in mind, we have:

1. Preceded the plans with an education section intended to

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 thoroughly acquaint you with the tools and materials, and
how to use them.
2. Laid out the plans in a detailed, step-by-step format to
answer the questions of "what do I do next?"
3. Provided all appropriate information to each step
adjacent to the words.
4. Provided full-size templates, ready to cutout and use, to
avoid the work and confusion associated with scaling up
drawings.
5. Provided a complete kit from one source to eliminate time
spent looking for materials.
6. Identified the difficult to build items, and included
them (prefabricated and ready to install) with the basic
Q2 Kit.
7. Set up our newsletter, "The Quickie Newsletter" as a
continuing plans updating/correcting system.**

*..Over 80% of homebuilt airplane construction projects

started, are never finished and flown.

** Because plans updates occasionally are of a mandatory

nature, a subscription to "The Quickie Newsletter" is
mandatory for those building a Q2.

PAGE
1-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 1 - Page 1-2

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 Building Sequence

.....The nature of the Q2 structure requires that a part be left alone

to cure for a longer period of time than that required to build it.
Thus, you will find that when following the step-by-step order, you will
often find yourself out of work, waiting for a cure. In most cases you
can skip to another chapter and build another part while waiting. With a
little planning and familiarity with the entire manual, you should be
able to use all of your time productively.

Questions?

.....Please use the procedure detailed here if you do not understand

something and need an answer. First of all, do not be concerned if you
do not understand everything the first time you read through the plans.
Many things that may not be obvious just reading the drawings, will be
obvious when you have that portion of the airplane in front of you or
have built a similar part in a previous chapter. Also, we will be able
to help you better if you are looking at that portion of your airplane.
So, do not ask for clarification until you are really working-on that
particular chapter. We have found through our Quickie and Q2 experience
that the majority of questions that the homebuilder asks are already
answered somewhere in the plans. We have made considerable effort in the
Q2 Construction Plans to make the information visible. If you do not
understand something, study the words in the step, study the sketches
and all related sections/views/ photos, then look through the full size
drawings and components that show that portion of the airplane. If the
answer is still not found, it may be that the item is covered in detail
in another chapter (there is some necessary overlap). It is possible
that a question related to the operation of a part of the airplane or
its maintenance is answered in your Q2 Pilot's Manual. Also, check your
back issues of "The Quickie Newsletter" for plans updates or
clarifications. OK, if you have checked everything and you are still
stumped, you can do one of three things:

1. Ask a friend. Often a description of an item is unclear to one

individual and clear to another.
2. Write to Quickie Aircraft Corporation, leaving room on the paper
under each question for our answer. INCLUDE A SELF-ADDRESSED,
STAMPED ENVELOPE and INCLUDE YOUR AIRCRAFT SERIAL NUMBER. We do
our best to answer all such questions within two days of receipt.
We cannot answer questions regarding the application of non-
recommended materials or regarding non-approved modifications.

Quickie Aircraft Corporation

P.O. Box 786
Mojave, CA 93501

.....

Also, let us know if you have found a better way of doing something. If
we agree, we'll publish it in "The Quickie Newsletter" so that all

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 Quickie builders can benefit. If it is not a good idea, we'll tell you
why, if you include a self-addressed stamped envelope.
.....Do keep us up to date on the progress of your project. Send us a
black and white snap shot of your airplane for publication in "The
Quickie Newsletter". Photos in the newsletter are particularly
beneficial if they are of an area of the airplane that's not clearly
shown with photos or sketches in the plans. Remember, the primary
purpose of "The Quickie Newsletter" is to support your airplane project.
.....If you are not a member of The Experimental Aircraft Association
(EAA), do join. This is the only organization who looks out for the
homebuilder as far as FAA regulations are concerned. Membership in your
local EAA can be extremely beneficial both in building your airplane and
in meeting people who share your interests. Their monthly publication,
"Sport Aviation" is worth the membership fee in itself.

EAA
Box 229
Hales Corners, Wisconsin 53130

EAA often publishes reports on builder's projects, so send them photos

and some words on your progress.

FAA LICENSING PROCEDURES

This procedure applies in the U.S.A. only. The Federal Aviation

Administration (FAA) has a definite procedure for registering and
licensing homebuilt aircraft. There is nothing complicated about it, but
they insist that you follow each step carefully.

1. Contact your local FAA Engineering and

Manufacturing District Office or FAA General Aviation District
Office. Tell them you are building a Q2 homebuilt. Give them the
following information:
3-View drawing of the Q2
Aircraft serial number
Aircraft registration number, if available
(see step #2)
Approximate date of starting construction
Engine-type

FAA will then answer you, and tell you when they want to inspect
your airplane, where the approved test areas are, etc.

2. This step is optional, and applies only if you want to reserve a

specific registration number (the number you will paint on the
tail). You can ask for all numbers, numbers followed by a single
letter, or numbers followed by two letters. They are preceded by
the letter "N". (For example, N77Q, N8490P, etc.). Be sure to give
them your second and third choice, in case the number you want is
already taken. Send $10 to reserve your special number to:

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 FAA Aircraft Registry
Box 25082
Oklahoma City, OK. 73125

Do not register your aircraft yet, since you don't need to pay
registration fees, property taxes, etc., until your airplane is
ready to fly. If you do not desire a special number, then the FAA
will assign you a random number.

3. When you are ready for inspection* contact your local FAA office.
Be sure you have an airframe log book (available from EAA) so that
FAA can make an inspection entry.
4. To prepare for your final inspection, be sure you have: The "N"
number painted on, the "Experimental" sign (2" high letters) on
the canopy frame, the ID plate, and an airframe log book and an
engine log book.
Before final inspection, fill out an application for registration
(FAA form #AC8050-1), a notarized affidavit that you built the
airplane from parts that you bought yourself, and include $5
registration fee, along with copies of your sales agreement and
invoice signed by Quickie Aircraft Corporation. Send those things
to:

FAA Registry
Box 25082
Oklahoma City, OK 73125

5. After you have made a final inspection of your aircraft, run the
engine, etc., but prior to any taxi tests or flights, contact your
local FAA office and tell them you are ready to fly. They will
have you fill out an application for airworthiness (form #8130-6),
inspect your airplane, and issue you an airworthiness certificate
and a list of operating limitations. When you have completed your
initial test period, contact FAA to get your operating limitations
amended so you can fly outside your test area.

• Refer to education section - inspection is done to major areas

(wing, canard, and fuselage) after the glass is applied, but
before the area is painted with any primer, etc., so that the
glass structure can be inspected. The FAA office has been supplied
with the same inspection criteria that you are given in your
Composite Materials Education Chapter.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 1 - Page 1-3

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 PAGE 1-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 2 - Page 2-1

BILL OF MATERIALS

TOOLS

.....There are certain tools which are necessary to complete the

aircraft. Three lists of tools are provided here. The first is the
absolute bare minimum required, sacrificing efficiency; the second is a
recommended list for the best compromise of cost and work efficiency; the
third is a list for the "Cadillac" of shops where ease of construction is
more important than money. The non-common items are stocked by Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty.

FIRST LIST - BASIC REQUIRED TOOLS

• Common household butcher knife

• Coping saw
• 1/4" drive socket set
• Small open-end wrenches
• Sandpaper.

50 sheets, 40-grit, 3M Production Paper D-wt.

50 Sheets, 80-grit, 3M Production Paper D-wt. 20 sheets, 240-grit,
3M Wet or Dry Tri-M-Ite Paper
A-wt. Silicon Carbide Waterproof.
20 sheets, 320-grit, 3M Wet or Dry Tri-M-Ite Paper
A-wt. Silicon Carbide Waterproof.

• Small Weights - Approx. 150 lbs in 5-15 lb pieces

• 6 - 6" C-Clamps
• Square and half-round files
• Pliers
• 1" putty knife
• Hacksaw
• Blade & Phillips screwdrivers
• Box of single-edge razor blades
• 24" carpenter's level
• Carpenter's square
• Felt marking pens
• 3-ft straightedge
• 12-ft decimal steel tape (Stanley #61-112)
• 1/4" drill with set of fraction and number bits,

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 #30, #32, #10, 1/4" and #12 bits
• Taps; 1/4-28, 10-32, 1/8 NPT (Pipe Tap)
• Roll of grey duct tape
• Saber saw
• Cheap hole saw set or flycutter
• Pop rivet puller
• Homemade balance for rationing epoxy
• Wall thermometer 50 to 100°F
• 6-ft straightedge
• Small set of X-Acto knives
• Dremel-type miniature high-speed hand grinder with saw and router
bits

SECOND LIST - RECOMMENDED TOOLS

(In addition to those in the first list)

• 6" to 9" disc-type hand sander

• Set of 1/4",1/2" and 1" chisels (wood)
• 1/2"-dia 100° counter sink (piloted)
• 6" machinist steel ruler
• X-Acto razor saw
• 3/8" variable-speed hand drill
• Hand broom/brush
• Bench-mounted belt sander
• Stanley surform plane
• Vacuum cleaner (shop type)
• Dovetail saw
• Epoxy Ratio Pump
• Plumb bob

THIRD LIST - FOR THE FIRST CLASS SHOP

(In addition to those in the first and second list)

• Drill press
• 18-inch band saw
• Vernier Caliper
• 90° drill adapter
• Air compressor with blow nozzle
• Orbital sander
• NICO press sleeve tool
• Clecos - one dozen 1/8"
• Hotwire Voltage Control

ITEMS USED ONLY OCCASIONALLY AND CAN BE BORROWED

• 1 dozen 1/8" Clecos

• Hotwire Voltage Control

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 • 5/8" Spotface

PACKING LISTS

.....Upon receiving your Q2 kit, you should immediately match the packing
list in each shipment against the actual contents of each box. Any
discrepancies should be reported immediately to Quickie Aircraft
Corporation. We will not be responsible for shortages that go unreported
for longer than 30 days after receipt of the materials.
.....Quickie Aircraft Corporation maintains a close liaison with Q2
subcontractors to assure proper materials specification and quality
control. Do not make substitutions for the materials provided. The
materials provided were selected, developed, tested, and optimized for
ease of construction and structural integrity. If you insist on making
non-approved substitutions for replacement and spoilage, we insist that
you do not call your aircraft a Q2. Quickie Aircraft Corporation will not
provide assistance in the application of substitute materials or
components.
.....In addition to the materials provided in the kit, you will need to
furnish a few items that are readily available locally. We do this to
save you some money. These items are as follows:

• Lumber for a workbench and jigging

• Masonite, hardboard, plywood, etc. for jigging
• templates, rigging templates, and hot-wire templates
• 12" piece of 1/4" diameter wood dowel
• 6" x 6" piece of aluminum screen door screen .Battery for
electrical system
• Finishing materials: Dupont 70S dark gray laquer primer surfacer,
Acrylic laquer paint "in the color of your choice
• 1 piece shock cord, 3- 4" unstretched length

END OF CHAPTER

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-01

COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION

.....DON'T SKIP THIS SECTION. Every hour you spend in this preparation
section will save you five when you really start building your
aircraft.

INTRODUCTION

..... In this section you won't build any part of your airplane. What
you will do is learn how to build your airplane the right way. The
construction techniques may be radically different from anything
you've done before (including building boats, surfboards, airplanes,
and go carts), and you should assume there is only one correct way to
do it. We've discovered many wrong ways of doing things and have
written the plans to keep you from repeating our mistakes. We insist
that you do things our way. If you have a better idea, suggest it to
us; we'll test, and if it really is a better idea we'll publish
details in the Quickie Newsletter.
.....This section will teach you all of the techniques required to
build your airplane, show you what special tools you need, and how to
use them. The educational samples that you will build in this section
are designed to give you experience and confidence in all of the
techniques that you will use in the construction of your airplane. The
steps in construction of each sample are arranged in sequence (as are
the steps in construction of the actual aircraft parts) and you should
follow the sequence without skipping any steps. You will learn the
basic glass lay up technique used throughout the aircraft, special
corner treatments, foam shaping/cutting, and joining methods. A
summary of these techniques is provided on yellow paper for you to
tack up on your shop wall.

THE FOLLOWING TOOLS ARE ONES YOU MAKE:

Sanding Blocks
..... These are required in many areas during construction and for
finishing. You may also use a "soft block", which is a block of the
blue-white or orange Styrofoam wrapped with sandpaper.

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 Much elbow grease is saved if you replace the
sandpaper often.
Long Straightedge
..... This is not absolutely required, but is quite handy when jigging
or checking the straightness of flying surfaces. It is merely a 6-ft
or 8-ft lx3 or lx4 piece of lumber that is hand-selected to be
"eyeball straight". You can get it one of two ways: (1) Order it from
Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co., or Wicks Aircraft Supply - they plane
them perfect from dry lumber. (2) Sort through the lumber (dry fir or
redwood) at your local lumber yard until you find one that looks
straight when you eyeball it from one end. Mark it and hang it on the
wall so it doesn't end up as part of a shelf!

Epoxy Balance
..... Devices which automatically ratio the correct amount of resin
and hardener and dispense it with the pull of a lever are available
from Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co., and Wicks Aircraft Supply, for
approximately $150. These save time and epoxy. You can ratio the epoxy
by building the following simple balance - don't skip steps!
.....Follow each step exactly every time you mix epoxy.

1. Place both empty cups as shown (wet

the hardener cup).
2. Adjust ballast weight to level mark.
3. Fill resin cup with desired amount of
resin 1 to 6 oz.
4. Add hardener to hardener cup to
balance scale on level mark.
5. Pour the hardener into the resin cup
and mix.

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 Pivots - metal tube bushings in wood. Loose fit on
nails. The 1/8" dia. brass tube available at hobby
shops is excellent for the bushings. MUST BE
FRICTION FREE.

These ratios result in a 43-part hardener to

100-part resin mix.

RATIO BALANCE FOR RESIN/HARDENER

1. Place both empty cups as shown (wet

the hardener cup).

2. Adjust ballast weight to level mark.

3. Fill resin cup with desired amount of

resin 1 to 6 oz.

4. Add hardener to hardener cup to

balance scale on level mark.

5. Pour the hardener into the resin cup

and mix.
Hot Wire Cutter
..... You will need a hot wire cutter to carve all the foam cores for
the canard, vertical fin, and wing. Refer to sketch.

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PAGE 3-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-02

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 ..... The variable voltage control can be obtained from Aircraft
Spruce and Specialty or Wicks Aircraft Supply, or you can substitute
any controllable power supply to include the 14 to 20 volt range with
at least 4 amp capability. An alternative is to borrow two 12-V
battery chargers or auto batteries and lash up the following device.
The "A" blocks represent either a battery or a 12-V dc battery charger
with a 4 amp capability.

..... The cutter should only be used on the blue-white or orange

styrofoam. A hazardous gas is emitted if you try to cut urethane.
.....You can substitute .025 nicrome wire which can be run at a lower
current (about 2 amp) but nicrome wire is difficult to find. Adjust
the current to obtain a wire temperature which will allow the wire to
cut the foam at a rate of one inch every four to six seconds when
pulled with a light load (less than ! pound). This can be checked with
a small scrap of foam. If temperature is correct, the foam will have
smooth hairy surface. A cratered surface means too much heat. If the
wire is too cold, the cutter will have to be forced hard, causing the
wire to lag. Lag should not exceed 1 inch over the top and bottom of
the wing and not over 1/8 inch around the leading edge. If the wire is
too hot, it will burn away too much foam, making the part too small
and will result in ruts in the foam if the wire is inadvertently
stopped during cutting. The wire should be tightened until the wire
starts to yield. Check this by tightening the wire while plunking it,
listening to the sound. The pitch will increase until the wire yields.

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 Jig Table
..... You will need a table to jig and build the wings and canard. It
should be at least 2 ft by 10 ft. Any larger than 4 ft. by 12 ft. will
just get in the way. Use a little care in making a flat, untwisted
surface. The following is a sketch of the one we made and it works
fine. The box design makes it stiff in torsion. Set it up with the top
35 to 39 inches above the floor. Don't get carried away with surface
finish, since you are going to be gluing blocks to it with Bondo and
chiseling them off several times.
.....When building the wing and canard, which are nearly 17 ft long,
one can extend the jig table with lumber (2x4's) and Bondo (see
section on Bondo) to provide a platform for the top jigging templates.

MATERIALS

..... The materials, processes, and terminology used in the

construction of your Q2 are recent to homebuilding. This section is
devoted to familiarizing you with the language, materials, and
techniques used in these plans. This information is basic to the
construction of your airplane. You should study this section and be
sure that you understand all of it before continuing.
.....There are five basic materials that you will be working with:
fiberg1ass cloth, epoxy, microspheres, flox, and foam. Each material,
its properties, and uses, will be discussed in detail. Basic processes
using these materials will also be discussed.

Fiberglass Cloth

..... The most basic structural material in your Q2 is glass cloth.

Glass cloth is available commercially in hundreds of different
weights, weaves, strengths, and working properties. The use of glass
in aircraft structures, particularly structural sandwich composites,
is a recent development. Very few of the commercially available glass
cloth types are compatible with aircraft requirements for high

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 strength and light weight. Even fewer are suitable for the hand layup
techniques used in the Q2. The glass cloth used in the Q2 has been
specifically selected for the optimum combination of workability,
strength, and weight.
.....The glass cloth in your Q2 carries primary loads, and its correct
application is of vital importance. Even though doing your glass work
correctly is important, this doesn't mean that it is difficult.
.....Two types of glass cloth are used, a bi-directional cloth
(5277BID), and a unidirectional cloth (5177UND). (Use the full part
number for ordering your cloth, but for simplicity the plans will use
only BID or UNI designations). BID cloth has half of the fibers woven
parallel to the selvage edge of the cloth and the other half at right
angles to the selvage, giving the cloth the same strength in both
directions. The selvage is the woven edge of a bolt of fabric as shown
in the accompanying sketch.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-03

..... UNI cloth has 95% of the glass volume woven parallel to the selvage
giving exceptional strength in that direction and very little at right
angles to it.
.....BID is generally used as pieces which are cut at a 45-degree angle
to the selvage and laid into contours with very little effort. BID is
often applied at 45 degree orientation to obtain a desired torsional or
shear stiffness. UNI is used in areas where the primary loads are in one
direction, and maximum efficiency is required, such as the wing skins and
spar caps.
.....Multiple layers of glass cloth are laminated together to form the
aircraft .structure. Each layer of cloth is called a ply and this term
will be used throughout the plans.
.....Marking and cutting the plies of glass cloth is a job that you will
repeat often in the construction of your Q2. Glass cloth should be
marked, cut, and stored in a clean area with clean hands and clean tools.
Glass contaminated with dirt, grease, or epoxy should be discarded. A
clean, smooth surface is needed for marking and cutting. The area used
for storing and cutting glass cloth should be separated from the aircraft
assembly area because otherwise it will be exposed to foam dust, epoxy,
and other things which can contaminate the cloth. You will need a good
sharp pair of scissors, a felt-tipped marker, a fairly straight board,
and a tape measure for marking and cutting. The small amount of ink from
marking and numbering plies has no detrimental effects on the glass
cloth.
.....In each step the size, type, and fiber orientation of each ply is
given. Take the list to your glass cutting table, rollout a length of the
appropriate cloth, straighten the selvage, mark all of the plies, and cut
them.
.....Now is a good time to stop reading long enough to go and cut a
square ply of BID and see how easy it is to change its shape by pulling
and pushing on the edges as shown in the sketches. Cut a square with the
fibers running at 45° and pull on the edges to shape the piece.

..... It helps if you make fairly straight cuts, but don't worry if your
cut is within 1 inch of your mark. As you cut BID, it may change shape,

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 just as the square ply that you are experimenting with does when you pull
on one edge. Plies that distort when cut are easily put back into shape
by pulling on an edge. Rolling or folding cut plies will help keep them
clean and make it easier to maintain their shape. If several plies are
called for, it may help to number them before cutting. Save your clean
scraps and make an effort to use them for smaller plies, If the cloth is
spotted with epoxy, throw it away.
.....When cutting long strips or large pieces of 45degree BID, always
roll or fold it so it keeps its shape when handled. When it's applied, it
can be set on one end of the part and rolled onto it. If you pick up each
end, it will distort and not fit the part properly.
.....The fiber orientation called for in each lamination is important and
shouldn't be ignored. UNI is characterized by the major fiber bundles
running parallel to the selvage and being much larger than the small
cross fibers which run at right angles to the selvage. In BID the cross
fibers are the same size as those running parallel to the selvage, giving
BID an even "checkerboard" appearance. BID is commonly used for plies cut
at 45° to the selvage. Your tailor would call this a "bias" cut. The 45°
cut makes it easy to work wrinkles out of a ply locally, without having
to chase it to the far edge. The 45° cut also makes it possible to make a
ply slightly longer than originally cut by pulling on the ends, or wider
by pulling the sides. The 45° orientation isn't critical; you don't need
to measure it. Your eyeball of a rough diagonal (45° ±10°) is adequate
when either cutting or laying up the cloth.

EPOXY
..... In recent years the term "epoxy" has become a household word.
Unfortunately, "epoxy" is the general term for a vast number of
specialized resin/hardener systems, the same as "aluminum" is a general
term for a whole family of specialized metal alloys. Just as the
"aluminum" pots and pans in your kitchen, the "epoxy" in your Q2 is
vastly different from the hardware store variety.
.....Epoxy is the adhesive matrix that keeps the plies of load-carrying
glass cloth together. Epoxy alone is weak and heavy. It is important to
use it properly so that the full benefits of its adhesive capability are
obtained without unnecessary weight. A large portion of your education in
composite structural work will be spent learning how to get the full
strength of an epoxy/glass mixture with the minimum weight. This section
will discuss the terminology and techniques for working with epoxy resin
and its hardener.
.....An "epoxy system" is made up of a resin and a hardener tailored to
produce a variety of physical and working properties. The mixing of resin
with its hardener causes a chemical reaction called curing_ which changes
the two liquids into a solid. Different epoxy systems produce a wide
variety of solids ranging from extremely hard to very flexible. Epoxy
systems also vary greatly in their working properties, some are very
thick, slow pouring liquids and others are like water. Some epoxy systems
allow hours of working time and others harden almost as fast as they are
mixed. A single type of resin is sometimes used with a variety of
hardeners to obtain a number of different characteristics. In short,
there is no universal epoxy system; each has its own specific purpose and
while it may be the best for one application, it could be the worst
possible in another use.
.....The epoxy systems used in the construction of your Q2 are tailored
for a combination of workability and strength_ as well as to protect the

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 foam core from heat damage and solvent attack. These systems are very low
in toxicity to minimize epoxy rash. The epoxies are not similar to the
common types normally marketed for fiberglass laminating. Two different
systems are used in the Q2: a normal curing system, and a 5-minute
system.

The very fast curing (5-min.) system is used much like clecos are used in
sheet metal construction (or clamps in woodwork); for temporary
positioning. Five minute is also used in some areas where high strength
is not required, but here a fast cure will aid assembly.
.....Safe-T-Pox will cure to a firm structure at room temperature within
one day. Complete cure takes 14 days.

The Q2 epoxy systems are called Safe-T-Pox and

5-MIN.

..... Any foam bonding where parts are small and the fast cure allows the
next step to be done soon. Also used as a temporary joint for jigging.

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PAGE 3-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-04

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 ..... The working and strength characteristics of an epoxy system are
dependent on the resin, the hardener, and on the amount of each in a
given mixture. Epoxy systems are engineered for a specific ratio of
resin and hardener. It is quite important that the proper mixture be
obtained. An accurate balance or ratio pump must be used to accomplish
this. A drawing of an inexpensive ratio balance is included in these
plans. The mix ratio accuracy is particularly important with Safe-T-
Pox. The 5-Min. can be adequately rationed by merely pouring a blob of
part A in a cup and adding a blob of part B that looks the same volume
before mixing. Never eyeball estimate Safe-T-Pox, always carefully use
the balance or pump.
.....Epoxy resin and hardener are mixed in small batches, usually 6
ounces or less, even in the largest layup. The reason for small
batches is that, in large batches, as the hardening reaction
progresses, heat is generated which speeds the reaction, which causes
even more heat, which ends up in a fast reaction called an exotherm.
An exotherm will cause the cup of epoxy to get hot and begin to
thicken rapidly. If this occurs, throw it away and mix a new batch.
The small volume batch avoids the exotherm. For a large layup, you
will mix many small batches rather than a few large ones. With this
method you can spend many hours on a large layup using epoxy that has
a working life of only a few minutes. If the epoxy is spread thin as
in a layup its curing heat will quickly dissipate and it will remain
only a few degrees above room temperature. However, in a thick buildup
or cup, the low surface area to mass ratio will cause the epoxy to
retain its heat, increasing its temperature. This results in a faster
cure causing more heat. This unstable reaction is called an exotherm.
Exotherm temperatures can easily exceed the maximum allowable for foam
(200°F) and damage the foam-to-qlass bond.
.....Unwaxed paper cups are used for mixing and ratioing resin and
hardener. Convenient 8-oz cups for resin are provided. The hardener
cups are the 3-oz unwaxed bathroom paper cups. Don't use waxed cups;
the wax will contaminate your epoxy.
.....If you are using the homebuilt balance, follow this procedure.
Place the resin (8 oz) cup on the right cradle. The resin cup can be
either a new clean cup, one with a little uncured epoxy left in the
bottom, or a clean cup from a previous layup with hard epoxy in the
bottom (smooth, not lumpy). Now, take a clean 3-oz hardener cup - pour
a splash of hardener into it then scrape the hardener back into the
container. This gives the hardener a wet surface, so its remaining
hardener will not be counted in the balancing. Now, place the wet
hardener cup on the scale, check that it swings freely and balance it
perfectly by moving the small weight. Epoxy is then poured into the 8
oz cup (6 oz or less). Hardener is then poured into the 3 oz cup at
the other end of the balance until the arm is level. When ready to
mix, pour the hardener into the resin cup and mix completely. If you
have the ratio pump, you simply put one cup under the spout, pump out
the amount that you want and mix.
.....
Mixing is done by stirring with a stick, being careful not to spill
any. If you spill part of an unmixed cup, the ratio of resin and
hardener may be inaccurate and it shouldn't be used. Mix each cup for
at least two minutes. You should spend 80% of your mixing time
stirring the cup and 20% scraping the sides to assure complete mixing.

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 Do not mix with a brush. The bristles can soak up the hardener,
changing the ratio. Use a tongue depressor or wood stick.
.....The working temperature has a substantial effect on the pot life
and cure time. Very hot conditions will cause the cure to speed up. In
cold working conditions the cure will be delayed and if it is cold
enough, epoxy may not cure at all. Working temperatures must be
between 70° and 9O°F. A range of 75 to 80°F is best. Be sure to get a
wall thermometer (approx. $1.50 at any general store) to check the
temperature of your work area. At 75°F, 5-Min must be used within four
minutes, and Safe-T-Pox must be used within 20 minutes.
.....Cold epoxy results in increased time required to do a layup,
since it takes longer to "wet" and to squeegee the cloth. A layup at
65° may take almost twice the time as at 75°F. On most layups (except
for joining foam cores) its best to have 75 to 80°F room temperature
and 80 to 9O°F epoxy. Resin and hardener can be kept warmer than room
temperature by keeping it in a cabinet with a small light bulb on. DO
NOT store your resin or hardener on a cold floor if you plan to use it
within the next several hours. If YOU let your shop get cold between
working periods, keep some resin and hardener in the warmest place of
your house for use on the next layup.
.....Save your mixing cups, as they can be used as a quality check of
your epoxy. After a day or two take a sharp knife point or scribe and
scratch the surface of epoxy in the cured cup. If the epoxy cured
properly, the scribe will make a white scratch mark. If the epoxy
hasn't cured, the scribe will make a dull ridge, indicating a soft
surface. If this occurs, the epoxy has not cured, either due to
inadequate time or temperature, or bad mixing, or bad epoxy.

MICROSPHERES
..... Microspheres are a very light filler or thickening material used
in a mixture with epoxy. Micro, as the mixture is called, is used to
fill voids and low areas, to glue foam blocks together, and as a bond
between foams and glass skins. The glass bubble-type supplied is
lighter than most common types. Microballoons must be kept dry. If
moisture is present it will make them lumpy. Bake them at 250°F; then
sift with a flour sifter to remove lumps.
.....Micro is used in three consistencies; a "slurry" which is a one-
to-one by volume mix of epoxy and microspheres, "wet micro" which is
about two-to-four parts microspheres by volume to one part epoxy, and
"dry micro" which is a mix of epoxy and enough microspheres to obtain
a paste which will not sag or run (about five parts-to-one by volume).
In all three, microspheres are added to completely mixed epoxy.
.....You do not have to accurately mix the microspheres; just dump
them in until the desired consistency is obtained. Micro slurry is
used to paint over foams before glass cloth is applied over them.
Slurry is almost the same viscosity as the pure epoxy and is runny
enough to apply with a brush. However, the easiest way to apply slurry
is to pour it onto the surface and spread it out evenly using a
squeegee. When skinning urethane foam use a full thick coat of slurry.
Inadequate slurry on urethane can result in a poor. skin bond. Wet
micro is used to join foam blocks, and, while it is much thicker than
slurry, it is still thin enough to sag and run (like thick honey). Dry
micro is used to fill low spots and voids and is mixed so that it is a
dry paste that won't sag at all. In all three micro types, you don't
measure, just add microspheres until the desired consistency is

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 obtained. Use micro only as specifically shown - never use micro
between glass layers.
....

Always use the following method to join foam blocks. This is extremely
important.

1. Check that the foam blocks fit closely together.

If there are voids over 1/16 inch, sand to fit, or
fill the void with a sliver of foam.
2. Paint a light coat of micro slurry on both
surfaces. If joining foam to fiberglass, paint
pure mixed epoxy (no microspheres) on the
fiberglass surface and micro slurry on the foam
surface.
3. Refer to the sketch and trowel wet or dry micro in
the center of the joint. Thus when joined the
micro is pushed outward expelling (rather than
trapping) air. If the fit is excellent use dry
micro.
4. Push the two pieces together, wiggling each to
move the micro toward the surfaces. Be sure the
micro is no thicker than 0.1 inch at any place, to
avoid exotherm. Wipe off any excess. Do not be
concerned if the micro does not completely reach
the surface. That void can be filled immediately
before skinning the part.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-05

FLOX
..... Flox is a mixture of cotton fiber (flocked cotton) and epoxy. The
mixture is used in structural joints and in areas where a very hard,
durable buildup is required. Flox is mixed much the same as dry micro,
but only about two parts flock to one part epoxy is required. Mix in just
enough flox to make the mixture stand up. If "wet flox" is called out,
mix it so it will sag or run.
..... When using flox to bond a metal part be sure to sand the metal dull
with 220-grit sandpaper and paint pure mixed epoxy (no f10x) on the metal
part.

BONDO
..... Throughout these plans the term "Bondo" is used as a general term
for automotive, polyester body filler. Bondo is used for holding jig
blocks in place and other temporary fastening jobs. We use it because it
hardens in a very short time and can be chipped or sanded off without
damaging the fiberglass. Bondo is usually a dull gray color until a
colored hardener is mixed with it. The color of the mixture is used to
judge how fast it will set. The more hardener you add, the brighter the
color of the mixture gets, and the faster it hardens. This simple guide

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 works up to a point where so much hardener is added that the mixture
never hardens. Follow the general directions on the Bondo can for fast
setting Bondo. Mixing is done on a scrap piece of cardboard or plywood
(or almost anything), using a hard squeegee or putty knife. A blob of
Bondo is scooped out of the can and dropped on the mixing board. A small
amount of hardener is squeezed out onto the blob and then you mix to an
even color. You will mix the blob for about one minute. You will then
have two to three minutes to apply it before it hardens.
..... Be sure to clean the board and putty knife off before the Bondo is
completely hard. MEK will clean Bondo off your putty knife and squeegee
if it isn't completely hardened.

PEEL PLY
..... Peel ply is a layer of 2.70z dacron fabric which is laid up over a
fiberglass layup while the fiberglass is still wet, and is later removed
by lifting an edge and "peeling" it off. The most convenient form of
dacron to use is "surface tapes", normally used in covering fabric
aircraft. These are available in rolls. You wi11 need at least one roll,
2" wide. Peel ply is used for two purposes:

(1) Peel ply any area that will later be structurally attached to
another fiberglass layup. Once the dacron is peeled off, the
surface is ready for another layup, without sanding. If you do
not use peel ply, you will have to sand the surface completely
dull (no shiny spots). This sanding is hard, itchy work and
ruins the strength of the outer ply of fiberglass.
.....Note that to peel ply the trailing edge overlap area, the peel ply
is the First ply made to the foam core, Lay a strip of dacron down on the
overlap notch and secure it with tacks or staples so it doesn't move when
you layup the skin.

(2) The second use for peel ply is to transition the area where
the top ply of a layup terminates on the fiberglass surface.
.....Refer to the adjacent sketches. If the top ply edge is laid up bare
it results in a rough edge that can delaminate if a little dry. Sanding
the rough edge is hard, itchy work and usually results in damaging the
adjacent surface. If the edge is overlaid with a strip of dacron during
the layup (lay on the dacron and wet out by stippling or squeegeeing) it
will make the edge lay down flat and will form a wedge of epoxy to
smoothly transition the edge. After cure, peel off the dacron. The result
is a beautifully transitioned smooth edge with no delamination tendency.
Use this method in all places where a cloth edge terminates on the
surface.

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 FOAM
..... Three different types of rigid, closedcel1 foam are used. A low
density (nominally 2 lb/ft3) b1ue¬white or orange, large-cell styrofoam
is used as the foam core of the wing, canard, vertical stabilizer, and
control surfaces. The blue-white or orange foam is exceptional for smooth
hot wire cutting of airfoil shapes. The large cell type used provides
better protection from delamination than the more commonly used
insulation-grade styrofoams.
.....Low density 2 lb/ft3 green or light tan urethane foam is used
because it is easy to carve and contour, and is completely fuel proof.
The urethane used is Urethane 210 or equivalent.
.....The white styrene modified urethane foam is used in medium density
(4-6 lb/ft3) where higher compression strength is required.
.....Do not substitute foams for those supplied by Quickie Aircraft
Corporation. For example, the Q2 blue-white or orange styrofoam has great
glass surface peel strength than the standard blue styrofoam sold by some
distributors. Also, we considered using the "fire resistant" BROWN
urethane instead of the green 2 lb urethane, but found its physical
properties, fatigue life, and fuel compatibility to be much lower than
the urethane supplied to Q2 builders. Do not confuse styrofoam with white
expanded polystyrene. Expanded polystyrene is a molded, white, low

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 density, soft foam, which has the appearance of many spheres pressed
together. This is the type used in the average picnic cooler. It
disappears immediat1ey in the presence of most solvents, including fuel,
and its compression and modulus is too low.
.....All three types of foams, urethane, styrene modified urethane, and
polystyrenes are manufactured in a wide variety of f1exibilities,
densities and cell sizes. Getting the wrong material for your airplane
can result in more work and/or degraded structural integrity. Since
sunlight can damage foam, avoid exposure of foam to the sunlight by
keeping it covered.

END OF SECTION

Q2 Plans – Chapter 3- Page 3-06

CONSTRUCTION TECHNIQUES

HOT WIRE CUTTING

..... The airfoil-shaped surfaces of your Q2 are formed by hot wire
cutting the orange or blue-white styrofoam of 2 lb/ft3 density. The
hot wire process given airfoils that are true to contour, tapered,
properly twisted, and swept with a minimum of effort and the simplest
of tools. The details for making your hot wire saw were shown
earlier.
.....The hot wire saw is a piece of stainless steel safety wire,
stretched tight between two pieces of tubing. The wire gets hot when
an electrical current passes through it and this thin, hot wire burns
through the foam. By making smooth steady passes, the hot wire gives
a smooth, even surface. The foam offers little resistance to the hot
wire's passage. To get a smooth accurate cut, a template is required.

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 Templates are made from thin plywood, sheet metal, masonite or
Formica. A variable voltage control is used to supply the electrical
current that heats the wire.
.....The blue-white or orange foam used in your flying surfaces was
selected for a combination of reasons and its hot wire cutting
ability was one of them. Other types of foams are readily hot wire
cut, but some (white expanded polystyrene) have poor physical
properties and others (urethane) give off poisonous gases when hot
wire cut. Use only the recommended materials!
.....Hot wire templates can be made from 1/16 to 1/4 inch plywood,
Formica, or masonite or .032 to .064 sheet metal. It is important to
have smooth edges on the templates. A rough edge may cause the wire
to hang up and burn into the foam excessively. Templates are required
on both ends of the foam being cut. The size, shape, and orientation
of the two templates is varied to taper, and twist the foam core as
required. The planform (span and sweep) is set by squaring up the
foam block before the templates are used. In general, the trailing
edge of the wing is the reference.
.....Full-size template drawings are provided in the plans. To make
your templates, just glue the template drawings to a piece of plywood
or sheet metal and trim to the contours shown. There are a number of
markings on each template which aid in the alignment and cutting of
the foam core.
.....Each template has a waterline (W.L.) marked on it which is used
to align the twist of the foam core. Each template's waterline is
leveled using a carpenters bubble level. This assures that the
relative twist at each template is correct. The template is then
nailed to the foam block to obtain the correct planform.

..... Each template has numbered marks running from the trailing edge
around the leading edge and back to the trailing edge. These are
called "talking numbers." When the foam cores are cut into their
airfoil shape, the talking numbers are used to assure that each end
of the hot wire is coordinated to obtain the correct, tapered
airfoil. The person calling the numbers should be at the largest
template. A typical cut would sound like this: "Resting on the tab
1/4" from the foam, moving forward, entering foam now - one, half,
two, half, . . .,34, half, 35, half, 36, coming out of the foam and

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 pausing on the tab, wire's out." As the cut is made, the person on
the small rib follows the numbers, passing over them as he hears them
called out. Pause marks are indicated in places where it is necessary
to pause for a couple of seconds and let the hot wire's center lag
catch up with the ends.
.....Preparing a foam block for an airfoil cut is begun by trimming
the rectangular foam block to the basic dimensions for the correct
planform. These "trim" cuts are made using two straight edged trim
templates. The templates are held against the foam by nails through
the template into the foam. Enough nails should be used to hold the
template firm so that it won't move when the hot wire is held against
it.

Cutting straight down along template

with a hotwire.

Note the diagonal cut being made by

correctly positioning the vertical
templates and passing the hotwire
downward along them.
..... Each template must have holes for nails to hold the templates
to the foam; four penny nails are good for this use. The holes in the

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 templates should be a close fit for the nails. Be careful not to
angle the nails so that the hot wire can catch on them! Some rib
templates are used several times, for both inboard and outboard,
requiring you to transfer the talking numbers, pause marks, trim
line, and waterline to the opposite side of the template.

Support the foam block well; don't overhang

the block past the edge of the jigging
table.

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PAGE 3-6

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-07

..... The use of the hot wire saw is a simple thing if your equipment
is set up properly. Proper wire tension and wire temperature should be
maintained for good cutting. The wire tension should be tightened
after the wire is hot by twisting one tube with a pair of pliers. The
wire should be as tight as possible. The wire should be hot enough to
cut one inch of foam in four to six seconds without having to force
the wire. A wire that is too hot will burn the foam away excessively.
To cool an over-heated wire, simply turn your voltage control to a
lower voltage setting. If you use a battery charger, you will have to
add length to the wire. To warm up a cool wire, just increase the
voltage setting or, with the charger, shorten the wire. Although the
foam offers only mild resistance to the hot wire, a long cut will
cause the middle of your wire to lag behind the ends. Wire lag can
cause problems in tight curves like the leading edge of an airfoil. To
reduce lag there, the cutting speed is reduced to about one inch in 8
to 10 seconds. The airfoil templates have notations in the areas where
reduced speed cutting is necessary and pause marks where it is
necessary to allow the lag to catch up completely.
.....The most common hot wire error is wire lag which causes a bow in
the leading edge. The following method solves this problem and thus we
recommend you use it for cutting the canard and wing. Use the tabs on
the templates at the waterline at the leading edge by cutting the core
in two passes: one from the leading edge up over the top to the
trailing edge, the other from the leading edge (under the tab) down
under to bottom to the trailing edge. The thin flashing of foam left
on the leading edge due to the thickness of the tab is easily removed
with your butcher knife. The result is a perfectly straight leading
edge. Care must be taken to assure that both ends simultaneously
approach the template at the leading edge. Use the following vocal
commands “wire is moving toward the tab, now resting on the tab 1/2
inch from the template (confirm both ends in that position), moving
toward template 1/4 inch away, 1/8" away, on the template, moving up
(talking number), Y (talking number)...” When approaching the trailing
edge overlap notch (see sketch) slow down and pause 3 seconds in the
notch to assure a full, sharp, accurate surface for the skin overlap.

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 ..... The hot wire should be guided around the templates with light
pressures. Pushing too hard against the template may move them or flex
the foam block which results in an under cut foam core.
.....The correct set-up is just as important as using the correct
tools and materials. Foam is a fairly flexible material and an
improper set-up can cause deflection. The foam block should be well
supported at each end, so that it doesn't sag and doesn't move around
while being cut.
.....You need clearance for the hot wire cutter to pass by the table
and the weights used to hold the foam steady.
.....Foam is manufactured in sizes that are often too small to get a
complete core from a single block. it is necessary to use two foam
blocks to get the size required for the wing cores. These blocks have
to be joined using an epoxy/microsphere mixture. The hot wire won't
cut through the micro joint, so all of the hot wire cutting is done
with the blocks temporarily joined. Nails or blobs of 5-min epoxy are
used for temporary foam joints, but the hot wire won't cut through
these. Thus, they have to be placed carefully so that the wire doesn't
have to pass through them.
.....Don't be overly concerned if you don't make perfect foam cuts:
ridges on the foam core from inadvertently lifting the hot wire off
the templates are easily faired in with a sanding block. A less-than-
perfect leading edge can be blended in by sanding after the foam core
is assembled. Gouges in the foam can be smoothed and filled with dry
micro to contour after applying the glass skins. The foam is too
expensive to throwaway because of a minor gouge.
.....A finished foam core may warp out of shape after it is removed
from the original rectangular block. This is due to internal stresses
in the foam from the manufacturing process, and is no cause for
concern.
.....A warped core is simply weighted into the jig blocks and shimmed
straight prior to glassing. Once the skin has been installed, the foam
is held firmly in position by the sandwich structure.
URETHANE FOAM SHAPING
..... One of the real treats in the construction will be shaping and
contouring urethane foam. Urethane is a delightful material that

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 shapes with ease using only simple tools. A butcher knife, old wire
brush, sandpaper, and scraps of the foam itself are the basic urethane
working tools. A vacuum cleaner is convenient to have handy since
working urethane produces a large quantity of foam dust.
.....The knife is used to rough cut the foam to size. The knife needs
to be kept reasonably sharp; a sander or file is an adequate knife
sharpener since it's a frequent task and a razor edge isn't necessary.
Coarse grit sandpaper (36 grit) glued to a board is used for rough
shaping.
.....Inside contours or "dishing" is done by using a ragged old wire
brush to rough out the bulk of the foam and following up with a scrap
foam piece to smooth the surface. The foam scrap conforms to the shape
of the surface resulting in a very smooth contour.

..... Outside contours are roughed out with a sanding block and
finished using a foam scrap. Dry micro and flox are used to fill voids
and pot fasteners in a number of places. All foam shaping should be
finished before any micro filling is done, because the filler is much
harder than the foam and this makes smooth contouring very difficult.
Your best carving template is your eyeball; an occasional check on the
depth of a contour is about the only measurement necessary.
.....Keep your shop swept reasonably well. The foam dust can
contaminate your glass cloth and your lungs. Use a dust respirator
mask while carving urethane. Try not to aggravate the better half by
leaving a green foam dust trail into the house.

PAGE 3-7

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-08

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 GLASS LAYUP
..... The glass layup techniques used in your Q2 have been
specifically developed to minimize the difficulty that glass workers
have traditionally endured. The layups that you will do will be on a
flat horizontal surface without the molds, vacuum bags, and other
special equipment that are common in glass work. The layups that you
do will all cure at room temperature; no ovens or special heating is
required. If you have suffered through a project that requires you to
build more molds and tools than airplane components, then you are in
for a real treat.
.....The techniques that you will use are quick but they still need to
be done correctly. 90% of the work that you will do is covered in the
next few paragraphs so make sure that you read and understand this
section very well. If you learn these basics, your airplane will be
easy. If you skip over this information, you will probably end up
frustrated.

STEP 1: PERSONAL PREPARATION

..... Before you get started with a layup, plan ahead. Some major
layups take several hours and before getting your hands in the epoxy,
it's a good idea to make a pit stop at the restroom.
.....Do not start a large layup if tired; get some rest and do it when
fresh. It's best to have three people for any large layup; two
laminators and one person to mix epoxy. Be sure that the shop is clean
before you start.
.....Take the recommended health precautions (discussed later in
detail) using gloves or barrier skin cream. Get your grubby, old
clothes on or at least a shop apron. Make sure that your tools are
clean from the last layup and ready to use. Your working area should
be between 7O°F and 90°. Best results are obtained at 75 to BO°F.
Below 7O°F the epoxy is thicker making it more difficult to wet the
cloth. Above 90°F, the possibility of an exotherm is greater.

STEP 2: CUT FIBERGLASS CLOTH

..... The fine points of glass cutting have been covered earlier.
Remember that there isn't any requirement to cut accurate dimensions.
Cloth dimensions are given well oversize. You scissor trim them as you
go, while laying the cloth up. It is a good idea to keep two pair of
scissors: one clean and in the glass storage area, and one in the shop
that gets epoxy on it. After cutting, roll or fold the material; keep
it clean and handy for the layup.

STEP 3: PREPARE SURFACE

..... The only difference between 1ayups over different materials is
in surface preparation. The layup over foam will be covered here since
you will be doing more of it, and other surface preparations will be
covered separately.
.....The foam surface is prepared by leveling uneven areas with a
sanding block and brushing or blowing any dust off the surface. Use
compressed air or vacuum to remove dust.
.....Now is the time to accurately check that the foam core is the
correct size, shape and contour. Refer to the section views of the

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 part - be sure your core looks exactly like that on the section view.
Lay a 12 inch straightedge spanwise on all critical areas of the
flying surfaces and be sure you don't have any high or low places or
joggles. Measure any areas that involve fiberglass buildups to check
for correct depth. Build up is 0.009 inch per ply for UNI and 0.013
inch per ply for BID.

STEP 4: MIX EPOXY

..... Mix epoxy when you need it, not before. Micro, dry micro, and
flox may be required at various stages of the layup. Mixing and
composition details were covered earlier. Apply a coat of micro slurry
to the foam surface before the first glass ply is laid over it. The
slurry can be poured on the foam and spread thin with a squeegee. Fill
any dings or gouges in the foam core with dry micro prior to applying
the slurry.

STEP 5: LAY ON THE CLOTH

..... Lay on the cloth in the specified orientation. Pull the edges to
straighten the cloth out and to remove wrinkles. Maximum strength and
stiffness is obtained if the fibers are not wavy or wrinkled. If the
cloth is to be applied around and/or into a sharp corner, you will
find the job easier to do if the fiber orientation is at 45° to the
corner. Don't get depressed if the layup looks like a hopeless mess at
this point. Press on with patience and things will work out fine. To
remove wrinkles, study the direction of fibers, follow the fibers to
the outer edge of the cloth and pull on the outside edge. Pushing a
wrinkle off the part is incorrect. Once the part is free of wrinkles
use a squeegee and make light passes from the center outwards to
smooth the cloth.

STEP 6: WET OUT THE CLOTH

..... Do not use micro between plies of cloth. Wet out the cloth by
pouring on a thin coat of epoxy. This may not be necessary if there is
enough epoxy under the cloth to be brought to the surface. This is
done by "squeegeeing", which involves drawing the squeegee over the
cloth. This brings excess epoxy up from be¬ low to wet out the cloth,
resulting in a weight savings as compared to adding more epoxy on top.
REMEMBER, epoxy adds no strength beyond what is needed to wet out the
white color of the cloth and fill air voids; any further addition of
epoxy is only dead weight.
.....Where multiple plies are required, the first plies may be laid up

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 wet and the excess resin brought up by squeegeeing to help wet out the
middle plies. To do this, pour epoxy onto the part and move it around
the surface with a squeegee. Your work will go much faster if you make
the layup too wet, then remove excess epoxy with many light passes
with the squeegee. Do not squeegee too hard, as this can starve the
surface of micro and introduce air. Continue to inspect for air (tiny
white flecks or bubbles) and stipple (a vertical stabbing motion with
a paintbrush) or squeegee in more epoxy to remove the air. A handy
squeegee can be cut from the flexible plastic found on a coffee can
lid. You may also find a paint roller handy for spreading around the
epoxy. The final plies are ambitiously stippled and additional epoxy
is applied sparingly. When in doubt - squeegee it out.
.....As you wet out each ply, scissor trim to within 1/2" of any
overhang (trailing edge, etc.). This 1/2" will be knife trimmed after
the layup cures. If an overhanging ply isn't trimmed, it lifts the
edge up and makes a bubble.
.....After scissor trimming, restipple the edges to be sure there are
no voids. Wet the cloth beyond the trim line at least 1/4" to allow
easy knife trimming later.

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PAGE 3-8

STEP 7: SQUEEGEEING

..... Squeegee out excess epoxy. This involves drawing a plastic or

rubber squeegee over the layup as shown. Plastic squeegees (scrapers) are
available at any paint store and included with the kit. If excess epoxy
exists, it will be pushed off the edge of the piece. Remember, excess

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 epoxy is much better on the floor than on the airplane. It is possible to
squeegee too hard and make the layup too dry. If this occurs, the surface
will appear white, indicating the presence of air. If this occurs, wet
the cloth by painting on a little epoxy and stippling it down into the
layup. The best quality layup is obtained if each layer of a multilayer
layup is squeegeed. The excess epoxy which is pushed off the edge can be
recovered and returned into the cup. This is easily done by catching the
epoxy on the squeegee and scraping it on the side of the cup.
.....The finished layup should appear smooth and green so that the weave
of the cloth is clearly visible, but not so dry that any area appears
white in color. If you've done an excellent job, the weight of resin will
be about 2/3 of the weight of cloth used.
.....To check if there is too much epoxy in the layup, pull a squeegee
across the surface, stopping before you reach the edge. Lift the squeegee
up and look for a large "ridge" of epoxy where the squeegee stopped. The
ridge under the top ply indicates that the layup is too wet and you
should spend time with the squeegee to remove epoxy off to the sides.
.....Don't hesitate to use your stippling roller or brush on an area
after squeegeeing. Some places are not suited to the use of a squeegee
and the dry brush or roller must be used to expel the excess epoxy. On a
given layup, about 1/2 of your time should be spent squeegeeing or
stippling.

STEP 8: GENERAL INSPECTION

..... After you have finished the layup, take a few minutes and give it a
good general inspection for trapped air, dry glass, excess epoxy, and
delamination. It is much easier to correct these things while the layup
is wet than to repair the cured layup. Also, have someone else inspect
it. Usually a different person can find air flecs or bubbles that are
missed by one inspector. Carry a good light around for the inspection.
Glance the light off the surface at various angles to look for airflecks.
If any air is visible, stipple it out. Be sure the overlaps on the edges
are perfect. If, due to a sharp corner etc, you have a problem
eliminating an air bubble, use one of the following two methods:

1. Lift the cloth up off the foam, trowel some wet micro
into the troublesome area, add more epoxy as you
stipple the cloth back down.
2. Add excess epoxy over the bubble, cover the surface
with saran wrap (thin plastic wrap), then push firmly
outwards to force the air out to the sides. The saran
wrap will seal the surface to keep air from being drawn
in. This method will force the cloth to stay down even

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 around a sharp corner.

STEP 9: PRELIMINARY CONTOUR FILL

..... Certain areas, like along the trailing edge (see cross section
views) require a dry micro fill. It is preferred to apply this fill
within 2-3 hours of finishing the fiberglass layup. However, where the
micro filler obscures the structure underneath, FAA inspection should be
completed before dry micro filling. Areas like the trailing edge where
the structure can be inspected from the other side should be filled while
the layup is still tacky (within three hours of the layup). If you wait
until the layup cures, you will have to sand the fiberglass surface to a
dull finish before applying the micro. So, mix up a "dry" micro mix and
trowel it into low areas while the layup is still wet, and save the work
of sanding where feasible.

STEP 10: CLEANUP

..... Brushes can be used two to four times if after each layup they are
washed with soap and water. Wipe excess epoxy off with a paper towel. Wet
the brush and work soap into all fibers by mashing it into a bar of soap
(Lava brand is best). Rinse with hot water and repeat 3 times. Be sure
they are dry before next use. We generally use a cheap brush
(approximately $2.00 to $4.00 per dozen) and discard after two or three
layups. Clean squeegees the same way.
.....If you use skin barrier cream (Ply No.9), the epoxy and cream will
wash off easily with soap and water. When you get epoxy on unprotected
skin, Epocleanse is used to remove the epoxy. Both of these products are
available. Once you are sure your skin is clean, wash again thoroughly
with soap and water, even if your hands were protected with plastic
gloves. If you get epoxy on tools or metal parts, clean them with acetone
or MEK before the epoxy cures. .
.....The only good way to protect your clothing is not to get epoxy on
anything that you care for. Use a shop apron and don't make layups in
good clothing. A surplus flight suit or other cheap coveralls are a good
investment.
.....You may feel that layups are messy work after your first experience
with them. However after you've done several, you will have learned not
to wipe your hands on your clothing (keep a roll of paper towel's handy),
not to scratch your ears, eyes, etc. during the layup. If your tools and
work area are clean and organized well and you are disciplined with the
epoxy, the job can be less messy than working with other materials.

STEP 11: KNIFE TRIM

..... When a layup is wet, you can only scissor trim to within about 1/4
inch without disrupting the fibers in the ply. An easy clean trim can be
obtained by waiting three to five hours after the layup. At this time,
the laminate is firm enough to support the cloth from fraying, yet soft
enough to cut easily with c sharp knife. This "knife trim" stage is the
optimum time for edge trimming with ease and accuracy. Take a sharp,
single-edge razor blade or X-Acto knife and trim the edges with a motion
downward toward the edge. Experience will help you determine the correct
time in the curing cycle for optimum knife trimming.

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 ..... In the plans, when "knife trim" is called for, this assumes the
three to four hour wait, even though not specifically stated. Don't fall
apart if you miss the knife trim stage and have to trim the fully cured
glass. If you wait until the layup is completely set, then saw along the
edge with a coping saw, Dremel, band saw, saber saw, etc. Smooth the edge
with a sanding block. When trimming a cured edge, be careful of the
"needles" (sharp protrusions of glass-frayed edges supported with epoxy).
.....The needles can be avoided by returning three hours after the layup
to make the knife trim. Knife trim time varies with temperature: about
six hours at 60 degrees and one hour at 90 degrees.

OTHER SURFACES
..... Surface preparation (step 3 of the basic glass layup) varies with
the material that you are laying up over. The layup over foam was covered
in detail in step 3. To prepare a cured glass surface for layup, the
cured surface must be sanded to a completely dull finish with 36 to 60-
grit sandpaper. If any of the glossy surface remains, an incomplete bond
results which is weak. Better yet, use peel ply as described later, Micro
slurry should not be applied to glass surfaces being bonded; this weakens
the joint. Wood requires no special preparation for bonding but should be
free of grease, oil, paints, and varnish. Sand wood surfaces with 36-grit
sandpaper before layup. Metal bonding is not relied upon for strength but

PAGE 3-9

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-10

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 metal surfaces should be free of oil and grease and, except for bolts,
nuts, and other fasteners, metal surfaces should be dulled by sanding
with 220-grit sandpaper, and coated with epoxy before setting in place.
Cured micro surfaces should be sanded dull but be careful not to
obliterate surrounding foam surfaces while doing it. In practice you may
be glassing over several types of material in the same layup and you will
be using most of these surface preparation techniques together.

ATMOSPHERIC CONDITIONS
..... Temperature has the greatest effect on the working properties of
your epoxies. 75 degrees Fahrenheit is an ideal temperature. The range
from 60 to 90 is acceptable with the precautions mentioned in the section
on EPOXY. Humidity has a lesser effect on these materials than it does on
aircraft dopes and some paints. Humidity will only create problems if it
is over 75%. Don't undertake a layup if it is pouring down rain outside
or, if you notice a cloudy "blush" on the wet epoxy surface, or any
evidence of whiteness in the epoxy due to moisture.

RECOGNITION OF A DRY LAYUP

..... One of the most important things you must know is how to inspect
for the presence of air within a layup. Air leaves somewhat crystal-like
flecks of white areas, noticeably different than the white color of the
microballoons. The presence of air is shown in the adjacent sketches in 3
forms: (1) A bubble or large void at the foam surface or within the
laminate, (2) small bubbles of air scattered throughout an area, or (3)
inadequate filling of the outer ply. Make a layup of 3 ply BID in a 6-
inch square over a scrap piece of foam, trying to achieve these 3 types
of dryness. Let it cure with the defects. This will be a handy sample to
use to instruct others who will help you inspect.

DRILLING, GRINDING, & SAWING

..... Drilling through cured glass tends to tear the surface plies on the
back side. Backup a glass layup with a wood block for drilling as shown
and drill at medium speed.

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 .....Using a small hone, grind the cutting edges of your drill bit flat
as shown (not undercut). This will keep the drill from grabbing into the
glass. Don't over-do it, just make a couple of light passes with the
hone.

.....In several places rough, cured glass surfaces occur where overlaps
or thick buildups are done. These rough edges should be smoothed as shown
using a grinder or sanding block.

.....The Dremel (Moto Tool) or Home Shop (Weller) is a very versatile

tool with many uses in the construction of your Q2. The kits usually have
a nice selection of bits, cutters, grinders, stones, and mandrels for
every conceivable use. The three types of bits shown here are the most
useful for your project. Don't throw the others out, as your next door

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 neighbor might be able to use them on his supersonic ornithoper project.

RIVETING
..... A pneumatic riveter is not required. The few hard rivets used can
be set with a hammer, using your vise as backup. The 'pop-type' rivets
are pulled with a low-cost hand puller available at any hardware store.

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-11

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 CUTTING THE UNI SPAR CAPS
..... The spar caps used in the main wing, vertical tail, and canard,
are strips of UNI cloth that you will cut from the roll provided in
the kit. Begin by unrolling the roll on a long, flat surface. The
example to be used here will be a spar cap A that is 8" wide by 50"
long. You would measure a 8-1/4" wide piece (to allow for frazzling
of the edges) by 50" long, with the fiber orientation running along
the 50" edge.
.....The technique is one of finding the one strand that is at the
edge of the 8-1/4" width, cutting it, and then pulling that whole
strand the length of the spar cap to remove it. You will now see a
clearly visible gap in the UNI cloth where that one strand used to
be. Now, using an Exacto knife or razor blade, cut all of the cross
fibers along that gap, thus severing the spar cap from the rest of
the roll.
.....Carefully mark the cap with a centerline (in this case at the
25" point, mark it with the letter A and roll it up to keep dirt out
of the fibers. When you next unroll it, you will probably find that
the edges are frazzled. As long as you don't reduce the width below
the original callout (in this case 8") you may pull off strands that
are frazzled. Be careful to only pull loose one strand at a time or
else the whole spar cap will start coming apart!

GLASS-TO-GLASS
..... In order to improve the rigidity of a part, you will
occasionally be asked to perform a glass-to-glass layup, sometimes
abbreviated as GTG.
.....The example shown here is a glass-to-glass layup on a bulkhead.
Begin by glassing one side of the bulkhead as usual. Next, having
turned the bulkhead over after curing to prepare the other side for
glassing, you will remove foam with a smooth transition so that your
next layup will butt up against the previous glass layup.
.....
The amount of "overlap" necessary varies with the loads. On
bulkheads, use a minimum of 3/8", on the trailing edges of ailerons
and elevators use 1" minimum, and on the trailing edges of the wing,
use 3/8" minimum.

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 PHENOLIC BONDING
..... Before bonding phenolic to any surface, be sure to sand the
phenolic dull (i.e. to remove the shiny surface) immediately prior to
doing the layup. This avoids getting grease from your hands, etc. in
the layup, which might cause poor adhesion and subsequent failure of
the layup.

TAPES
..... Quite often during the construction of your Q2, you will be
asked to use glass tapes to join two pieces together.
.....A glass tape is a strip of BID cut at 45 degrees which is used
to lap up onto both surfaces that are being joined. For proper
strength, the tape should be at least 2" wide.

QUALITY CONTROL CRITERIA

INTRODUCTION
..... One of the unique features of the glass-foam-glass composite

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 construction technique is your ability to visually inspect the
structure from the outside. The transparency of the glass/epoxy
material enables you to see all the way through the skins and even
through the spar caps. Defects in the layup take four basic forms:
resin lean areas, delaminations, wrinkles or bumps in the fibers, and
damage due to sanding structure away in finishing. Resin lean areas
are white in appearance due to incomplete wetting of the glass cloth
with epoxy during the layup.

DRYNESS CRITERIA
..... Pick any 6"x6" square in the layup in the critical area. Assess
carefully if any evidence of air in the layup is present (white
flecks, bubbles, air at the foam face). If the dryness is more than
10% of the area, the part MUST be rejected. Reject or repair any
evidence of dryness or voids in the trailing edge or leading edge
overlaps. Better yet, do an adequate inspection with good light
before cure when it's easy to fix. If in doubt on overlaps be sure to
stipple in enough epoxy.
.....Delaminations in a new layup may be due to small air bubbles
trapped between plies during the layup. The areas look like air
bubbles and are distinctly visible even deep in a cured layup. Small
delaminations, or bubbles up to 2-inch diameter, may be filled with
epoxy by drilling a small hole into the bubble and filling the void
with epoxy.
.....When making a layup, do not be concerned if the brush
occasionally sheds a few bristles; these do not need to be removed.
If the bristle count exceeds about 10 per square foot, change your
brush and remove bristles.
.....Occasional sanding through the weave in the first skin ply is
not grounds for scrapping the part. Care should be exercised in
areas, such as the skin joints, not to weaken the structure in
pursuit of an optimum finish. An excess of resin (wet) will make your
airplane heavy and does weaken the layup, but usually not enough to
reject the part for strength reasons.

BUMP/JOGGLE/DIP CRITERIA
.....The best way to check this is to lay a 12-inch straightedge on
the part spanwise. Move it allover the surface in the critical areas.
If you can see 1/16" gap in any area, the part must be repaired. It
is best to repair or beef up lumpy areas even if they meet this
criteria. Better yet, do a good job in core preparation and use your
squeegee well in the lay up to avoid the lumps in the first place.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-12

..... The following is a listing of the "critical areas"; the

portions of the Q2 that must meet all the inspection criteria:

1. Entire canard.
2. All portions of the fuselage within 10" of
the engine mounts, canard, and wing.
3. All control surfaces.

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 4. All flying surfaces in the shaded areas
shown, plus all overlaps at L.E. & T.E.

..... Major wrinkles or bumps along more than 2" of chord are cause
for rejection in the wings, canard and vertical fin, particularly on
the top (compression side). This does not mean you have to reject the
whole wing - anything can be repaired by following the basic rule:
remove the rejected or damaged area and fair back the area at a slope
of 1" per ply with a sanding block in all directions. By watching the
grain you will be able to count the plies while sanding. Be sure the
surface is completely dull, and layup the same plies as you removed,
plus one more ply of BID over the entire patch. This will restore
full strength to the removed area.
.....Use this method to repair any area damaged for any reason -
inadvertent sanding through plies during finishing, taxiing a wing
into a hanger, etc.

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 CORNER TREATMENTS

..... A variety of structural corners are employed in the

construction.
......There are two basic types of corners: one where the glass
fibers are continuous around the corner, and the other where a
structural filler is used and glass is bonded to the filler. The
corner with the glass fibers running completely around it is used
where maximum strength is required.
......Inside corners can be laid up quite abrupt and only a very
slight wipe of dry micro is needed to get the glass to lay into it.
BID cut at 45° is used on this type of corner.

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 ..... Outside corners require a radiused edge. Where the glass fibers
run directly around the corner a minimum radius of 3/16 inch is
required. Where the fibers run at an angle to the radius, only a 1/8
inch radius is needed.

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PAGE 3-12

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-13

..... In some areas a sharp corner is desirable and maximum strength

isn't required. In these areas a flox corner is used. A simple
unsupported glass corner has very poor strength. To strengthen this
corner, a triangle of flox is used to bond the glass plies together.
The flox corner is done just before one glass surface is applied for
a wet bond to one surface. The other glass surface has to be sanded
dull in preparation as shown.

HEALTH PRECAUTIONS

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 SKIN PROTECTION
..... If you work with epoxy on your bare skin, you can develop an
allergy to it. This "sensitization" to epoxy is an unpleasant
experience and is to be avoided. You generally have to get epoxy on
your unprotected skin to become sensitized. If you use a protective
barrier skin cream like Ply No.9, or disposable plastic medical
examination gloves, the allergy can be avoided. The barrier skin
cream also allows you to clean up with soap and water after a layup.
.....The Safe-T-Pox epoxy systems are very low toxicity. However, a
few people (about 1 percent) may be sensitive to epoxy. These people
can get some help by using doctor prescribed anti-allergy medicines
and/or by using elaborate masks/multi-gloves, etc, to reduce
exposure. Remember to always use skin protection and never let epoxy
come in contact with bare skin, even if you have no reaction to it.
Sensitivity is accumulative, such that you may later develop an
allergy unless you protect your skin.
DUST PROTECTION
.....Sanding or grinding fiberglass and foams creates dust that can
be harmful to your lungs. Use a dust. respirator mask for these
operations. Disposable dust masks are available at most paint stores.

VENTILATION
.....Mix and work your epoxy in a ventilated area. If your shop is
not ventilated, set up a small fan to move a small flow of air in or
out. Do not hotwire urethane foam.

HEAT DEFORMATION AND CREEP

..... Several builders have had flying surfaces warp or bend due to
being poorly supported until fully cured. Do not hang or support them
at each end for long periods as they may "creep" or slowly deform.
Store them leading edge down with support in at least three places.
Your surfaces can be better protected against "creep" if you post-
cure them. Sailplane manufactures do this by putting the entire
airplane in an oven at 160°F. You can do it as follows: After you
have painted on the black primer put the wing or canard out in the
sun. Be sure it is well supported in at least three places along its
span. At noon a black surface can reach 140 to 180°F. giving it a
relatively good post-cure. After the post-cure, the structure is more
stable for warping or creep. If you have a wing or canard that is
twisted wrong, apply a twisting force in the opposite direction
before and during the post-cure (weights applied to boards, Bondo’ed
or clamped to the surface can be used). Remove the force only after
the surface has cooled. A 200 ft-lb torque (50 lb weight on a 4 ft
arm) applied twice, once while the top surface is post-cured and once
for the bottom, surface, can twist your wing or canard over one
degree. The twist correction will be permanent and will stay as long
as the surface remains cool (below the post cure temperature). This
is generally referred to as the heat-deformation characteristic of
the epoxy. If it is room-temperature cured only, it will soften above
140°F. But if post-cured it will not soften until over 160°F. Heat
for post-curing or for intentional deforming can be applied by other
means such as heat lamps, hair dryers or electric radiant heaters
(house-hold type), however this is generally not recommended, since

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 it is too easy for the homebuilder to get the part too hot and ruin
the part. The foam is damaged above 240°F. If you want to use these
heat sources, do so by applying the heat very slowly and checking the
temperature often by placing your hand on the surface. If you can
hold your hand on the surface five seconds without pain, the
temperature is okay-three seconds is too hot.

AIRCRAFT MEASUREMENT REFERENCE SYSTEM

.....To ease the engineer's task of defining where things go in these

odd-shaped gadgets called aircraft, a fairly standard system of
references has been developed. Fortunately the Q2 is so simple that
an elaborate measurement system is not necessary. It is, however,
convenient to use the standard terminology for reference occasionally
and you should be familiar with its meaning.
.....The three basic references are called butt, lines, fuselage
stations, and water lines. Don't blame us for the absurd names, we
didn't set the system up. All three are given in inches from some
arbitrarily chosen reference, so, fuselage station 100 is found 100
inches away from fuselage station 0, and similarly for butt lines and
waterlines. Being as lazy as anybody else, we abbreviate these as FS,
BL, and WL.
.....Fuselage stations (FS) are used to define the location fore and
aft on an airplane. To make things easy, fuselage station a is
generally located near the nose of an airplane and measurements are
made aft. Fuselage stations are the most commonly used of the
references and later on you will make a reference mark on your
airplane to use as a permanent FS reference point.
.....Waterlines (WL) are used to define vertical locations. Waterline
0 is generally found near the ground and measurements are made up
from WL0.
.....Waterlines are utilized in many places to position components or
templates relative to each other by leveling reference waterlines
with a carpenters level.
.....Butt lines define positions inboard and outboard. Butt line 0 is
the vertical centerline of the airplane and measurements are taken to
the left and right of BL O. Since left and right depends on which way
you are facing, it is standard practice to define left and right as
the pilot would while seated in the cockpit.
.....Using these three references, any point in an airplane can be
described with a fuselage station, butt line, and waterline.
Fortunately, your Q2 is so simple that we don't need to locate very
many things this way. When you start on your 4/5 scale replica of a
B-1 Bomber, this reference system will be real handy.

PAGE 3-13

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-14

SURFACE FINISHING

INTRODUCTION
.....Finishing the composite airplane is more important than simply
obtaining an attractive paint job. The finish on a composite aircraft
serves to protect the structure from deterioration due to ultra
violet radiation (sunlight). The finishing materials also give the
airplane its final aerodynamic shape. Using the proper materials and
techniques, the finishing process is pleasing (both esthetically and
aerodynamically), and provides for long maintenance-free service. Use
of sub-standard materials can limit the life of the finish, result in
an overweight airplane, and even limit the service life of the
airframe. Sanding is done frequently during-the finishing process and
extreme caution must be exercised to avoid damaging the structure. A
poorly executed finishing job can destroy the structural integrity of
the airframe. Even the finished color of the composite aircraft can
effect its structure. The finishing process is as important to the
structure of the composite airplane as basic materials and techniques
used in fabrication are. Proper techniques must be adhered to for
safety as well as to obtain an attractive airplane.
.....The Q2 is sensitive to weight growth. You may easily add 50
pounds during the finishing process if you try to finish the entire
aircraft to sailplane standards (smooth, wave-free surfaces).
.....There is one part of the aircraft that must be finished to a
smooth and wave-free surface - the canard. We have found that unless
the canard is smooth and wave-free, serious degradation of
performance and flying qualities results. This section will tell you
how to obtain a smooth and wave-free finish on the canard.
.....The rest of the airplane, in order to keep it as light as
possible, should be sanded with very little filling, then primed. and
then painted. This will allow some of the fiberglass weave to remain
showing, but your Q2 will still look good.
.....Remember, build it light and finish it light; every pound of
weight that you save during the construction and finishing will make
the aircraft much more fun to fly in the coming years.
FINISH COLORS AND HEAT
.....The materials used in amateur-built composite airframes are
predominately epoxy resin systems with fiberglass reinforcement over
a variety of plastic foam cores. The epoxies and the foams are all
sensitive to high temperatures. Some epoxies, cured at elevated
temperatures, retain their physical strength to temperatures not
found outside an oven. Others, including most room temperature curing
epoxies such as the Safe-T-Pox system, soften and loose their
rigidity at only moderate temperatures. The common plastic foams are
also heat sensitive and. tend to soften and (some) swell with
moderately elevated temperature. Elevated temperatures could
potentially cause a softening of the fiberglass load bearing
material, a swelling of the foam core, and general distortion of the
airframe. To achieve elevated temperatures you would have to bake
your airplane or find some other means of heating it. The sun is a

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 potential source for this heat. In still air, on a hot sunny day it
is possible to obtain surface temperatures that approach 250°F. The
color of the surface determines how much solar heat it will absorb.
White surfaces absorb very little (10%) of the sun's heat while a
black surface (95% absorption) will heat up tremendously.

The accompanying graph shows the relationship between color and

surface temperature. White has been chosen as the standard color for
fiberglass sailplanes to preclude any possibility of excess
temperature due to solar heating. The same criteria apply to the Q2,
and white is recommended. Trim colors in less-critical areas such as
the fuselage, vertical tail, and the underside of wings and canard,
can be other than white. Dark trim colors are definate1y not
recommended on the upper surface of wings and canard! If you would
like further information on the subject read the September 1975 issue
of Soaring magazine.

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 TOOLS AND MATERIALS

..... The tools and materials used in finishing the composite

airplane are simple and straight forward. A low density
microsphere/epoxy mixture (dry micro) is used for coarse filling
requirements. Automotive type polyester body fillers (Bondo) are very
heavy and not recommended as a primary aircraft finishing material.
Medium to light surface filling (less than .030") is done with a
light weight polyester spray (or brush) filler/primer called Feather-
Fill. Feather-Fill is noteworthy for its ability to fill medium
thicknesses in a single spray or brush coat and for its easy sanding
to a smooth surface. Dupont 70S dark gray 1aquer primer/surfacer
provides an effective ultra violet radiation barrier with its 15%
carbon-black content as well as an excellent finish sanding surface
in preparation for the finish paint. The actual finish paint type is
largely a matter of the builder's personal preference. Automotive
finishes in laquer, enamel, acrylic 1aquers, acrylic enamels, and the
polyurethanes are all acceptable. We find the acrylic 1aquer is easy
to work with, easily patched, and readily polished to a high gloss.
.....The enamels and acrylic enamels are low cost and easy to apply;
however, they are not readily repairable if chipped. The polyurethane
finishes offer the best gloss for the longest life, but they are high
cost and virtually impossible to repair. There is a polyester paint,
known as Prestek, commonly used in sailplane circles to achieve a
glass-smooth finish, but it is heavy, requires a tremendous amount of
work to get a high gloss finish, and chips easily (brittle).
.....Sanding will occupy a large percentage of the time spent
finishing the composite aircraft. Sandpaper in 36 to 60-grit, 100-
grit, 220-grit, and 320-grit roughness will be used. Standard 9"xll"
sheets are the most versiti1e. Use a good quality aluminum oxide, or
silicon carbide sandpaper. Don't waste your money on the cheap flint-
type sandpapers. Power sanders are not recommended; it is too easy to
damage the structure while using them. Hard (wood) and soft (foam)
sanding blocks and the sanding spline shown will be your primary
finishing tools. A paint spraying setup will be desirable for feather
fill, U.V. barrier primer and finish painting. Some hand brushing of
feather fill and U.V. primer can also be done.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-15

.....The sanding spline is a finishing tool common to the sailplane

industry. It is an easy tool to make and does an excellent job of
contouring. You may find it handy to make two, one for coarse grit
sandpaper and one for medium or fine sanding. The spline is an easy
tool to use but it may require your close attention at first. The
spline is always held with handles parallel to the leading edge of an
airfoil surface (wing, canard, etc.) as shown in the sketch. The
sanding motion is on a diagonal to the leading edge while the
spline's handles are held parallel. This takes a little getting used
to but becomes second nature after a little practice.

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 THE FINISHING PROCESS

..... Finishing the composite airplane is a five-step operation.

Repairs or rework of structure must be completed first, before the
obscuring finish is applied, and final structural inspections must be
complete. Second, coarse contour filling is done with
microspheres/mixed with epoxy (dry micro) as required in areas
requiring .03 inch to .20 inch of fill. Any exceptionally gross
filling (over .20 in) is also accomplished at this stage using a foam
filler. The initial contour sanding begins with the cured microsphere
filler, and exceptional caution must be exercised to avoid damaging
the structural skins while sanding. Third, featherfi1l is applied to
fill medium sized surface defects up to .03 inch, and as a general
fill of the glass surface weave. The fourth step is the application
of an ultra violet barrier primer. Fifth, the final finish paint is
applied.
.....The following sketches are descriptive of the finishing process
and its potential pit falls. The sketches use an exaggerated scale to
show details more clearly.

STEP ONE: INSPECTION/REPAIRS

..... Before you begin finishing, the entire structure must be
airworthy. You can hide poor workmanship from your own eyes and from
the inspector who will finally approve your first flight, but you
can't fool mother nature! All structure must be sound before finish
materials are applied. The following sketches are a review and
clarification of the quality control criteria found in Chapter 3 .
Each airplane must have a thorough inspection and required repairs
completed as the first step in finishing. The best way to inspect the
structure for bumps or dips is to place a 12" ruler on the wing or
canard span-wise, as shown. Gaps under it approaching 1/16" height
must be repaired.

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 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 3-15

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-16

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 STEP TWO: COARSE FILLING
..... You must be extra cautious in this step or you may destroy your
structure. When you take a piece of sandpaper and start grinding on
your composite structure it's like using acid to clean a metal wing
spar. It must be done carefully! Start by determining which areas
require micro filler as shown using a flexible yard stick and a
scale. Prepare the areas to be filled by hand-sanding lightly. Do not
try to use a sanding block or spline on these areas.

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 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 3-16

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-17

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 .....Paint a thin coat of epoxy over the area to be filled. Dry micro
is then lumped over the area. The fill must be high, such that
material is sanded away to bring the area into contour. The micro
should be mixed very dry (lots of microspheres) to save weight. Let
the micro cure at least 24 hours. Sand the micro overfill into
contour using a hard sanding block, or spline with coarse (36 to 60-
grit) sandpaper. Exercise extreme caution while sanding. A few
careless strokes with coarse paper can ruin your structure!

STEP THREE: FEATHER FILL

..... Sand the surfaces lightly by hand or with a soft foam sanding

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 block in preparation for feather fill. A spray or brush coat of
feather fill will build up .02" to .03" thick, fill the glass weave
and any medium sized out-of-contour spots. Feather fill will require
several hours curing time before it can be sanded. The cured feather
fill is sanded to contour using a spline or soft block and 100-grit
sandpaper. Again, extreme caution must be exercised not to damage the
glass structure in pursuit of a good finish. The contouring must stop
immediately when the highest glass peaks begin to be visible as the
feather fill is sanded away.
.....If you find that you have underestimated the fill required or
just have a thin coat, don't hesitate to use a second coat of feather
fill. A well prepared surface generally won't need more than one
coat. When you have finished contouring the feather fill, the surface
should be basically smooth and fair. The primer to follow is not
intended to be contoured heavily, just smoothed with finer sandpaper
for a smooth finish while leaving a substantial ultra violet barrier.

.....After you have filled and contoured, re-inspect for sanding

damage; it is an easy thing to do! Remember, you are only allowed to
sand into the first skin ply in local areas no greater than 2 inches
in diameter and all of these areas must total less than 10% of the
surface area. Wherever there is only one ply, or where the UNI cloth
is crossed for strength (e.g. the canard and wing skins), no sanding
of the ply is allowed, except for "scuffing Up” the surface. Be
Careful!

STEP FOUR: PRIMER

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 ..... The ultra violet radiation barrier is provided by the heavy
carbon black content of the dried primer (Dupont 70S). The primer
gives the whole surface a flat black color and the sanding should
never remove it completely, exposing the light gray feather fill
below. The primer is sprayed on, allowed to dry, and sanded lightly
to achieve a smooth surface. The first primer coat is sanded using
220-grit and the second coat very lightly wet sanded with 320-grit.
When complete, the primer is very smooth, dark, and ready for finish
paint.

STEP FIVE: FINISH PAINT

.....Follow the manufacturer's directions for the type of finish
paint that you have chosen.

COCKPIT INTERIOR
.....It is not necessary to fill the glass weave, although some very
light sanding may be done to smooth the surfaces. Apply one coat of
the Dupont 70S primer to the interior glass, surfaces for ultra
violet protection prior to painting the interior.
.....A light color (light grey, green, or blue, etc.) is recommended
on the cockpit interior to avoid high heat buildup when the aircraft
is parked in the summer sun with the canopy locked. Automotive trunk
paint may also be used. Its “speckled" appearance will hide the weave
of the glass cloth.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-18

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 CANARD SURFACE SMOOTHNESS IS CRITICAL

.....During the Quickie program we built and installed a canard that

resulted in very poor low-speed performance. Stall speed was 10 mph
higher than predicted and tuft tests showed stall angle-of-attack
over three degrees lower than estimated. We later traced the problem
to a wavy upper surface; the canard must be smooth.
.....Of course, the big question is "how smooth"? The best way to
check this is with a steel pocket ruler, the flexible kind that's
only .0211 thick, or with a plastic drafting ruler. Hold the ruler as
shown in the sketch, pushing it to the surface with two fingers 2
inches apart. If the surface is a smooth curve between your two
fingers the ruler will lay down following the curve with no gaps. If
the surface is bumpy or wavy the ruler will touch the surface only in
3 or 4 places. Take a feeler gauge to measure the gaps between the
ruler and your surface. If you have a gap of more than .005 inch,
your surface is too wavy. Check this in several places from the
leading edge back to 50% chord. The bad Quickie wing had gaps of
about .012 inch. After refinishing with gaps of less than .005 inch,
its stall angle of attack increased from 8 deg. to 12 deg!
.....The best time to use the ruler and check for smooth surface is
when sanding the Featherfill with the spline. Recheck after sanding
the 70S black primer. It will not change when white paint is sprayed
on.

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 AMATEUR-BUILT Q2 INSPECTION CRITERIA

1.0 SCOPE
..... This document has been prepared to assist inspection personnel
by providing recommended acceptance criteria and acceptable repair
practices for the Q2 amateur-built composite sandwich structure.
2.0 BACKGROUND INFORMATION
2.1 DESIGN CRITERIA
..... The materials, methods, and practices employed by the amateur
builder in the construction of the Q2 type are new to light aircraft
construction and may be unfamiliar to the inspection personnel
involved with the licensing of amateur built aircraft. Structural
design criteria for the Q2 exceed F.A.R. part 23 requirements. In-
house component testing of the primary flight structure has been
conducted to 200% of design limits. Detail documentation of test data
is on file at Quickie Aircraft Corporation. The aircraft is
considered to be a utility category aircraft. Q2 builders are being
supplied with a complete owner's manual which specifies all placards,
operating limitations, normal and emergency operations, flying
qualities, maintenance specifications, inspection procedures, and
initial flight test procedures.
2.2 STRUCTURAL APPROACH
..... The basic structure throughout the design is a composite
sandwich of load bearing fiberglass skins separated by a light-weight
foam core. While the materials and processes are tailored to the
amateur builder, the structural layout is very similar to the
honeycomb composite structures stylized in military and transport
type aircraft and fiberglass sailplanes. Loads are carried by epoxy
jell-type fiberglass lamina. Foams of various types and densities are
employed as a form (upon which the load bearing material is shaped)
and as local buckling support. In no instance are foams used to
transmit primary loads, as is the case in some other amateur-built
designs.

2.3 INSPECTION TECHNIQUES

..... The transparent nature of the fiberglass/epoxy material allows
for visual inspection of primary structure from the outside prior to
finishing. Defects in the structure, as described in paragraph 3.0,
are readily visible even in the deepest laminate.

2.4 INSPECTION SEQUENCING

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 ..... The external visual inspection capability provided by the
materials allow inspection of all primary structures at any point
before finishing. All primary structures are at the surface,
eliminating the requirement for “pre-cover” or “closure” inspections.
Opaque filler materials are used throughout the airplane in
finishing, and inspection must take place before any areas are
obscured. Some areas may have opaque materials applied to one surface
where the structure is inspectible from the opposite side (wing
trailing edge for' example).

3.0 DEFECTS
3.1 VOIDS

..... Interlaminar voids in a new layup may be due to small air

bubbles trapped between plies during the layup. These void areas look
white and are distinctly visible even deep in a cured layup.
Interlaminary voids up to 1 inch in diameter do not require repair,
as long as they do not consist of more than 5% of the surface area.

Interlaminar voids (air bubbles) up to 2 inches in diameter are

acceptable when repaired as follows: A small hole is drilled into the
void and epoxy is injected into the void area. Small voids such as
this may occupy up to 5% of the laminate surface area.

Voids greater than 2 inches in diameter should be repaired as shown

in paragraph 4.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-19

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 3.2 LEAN AREAS

..... Areas where the epoxy/glass matrix is incomplete because of

inadequate wetting of the cloth with epoxy (lean areas) are speckled
whitish in appearance. The fully wetted laminate will have a
consistent transparent greenish appearance. Epoxy lean areas are
acceptable, as long as the white speckled area is less than 10% of
the surface area. White to green ratios greater than 10% require
rejection or repair as shown in paragraph 4.

3.3 RICH AREAS.

..... Resin richness primarily adds weight to the laminate. While
some degradation of physical properties does occur, a overly wet
(rich) layup is not grounds for rejection.

3.4 INCLUSIONS
..... Bristle paint brushes are used throughout the layup process. As
a brush begins to deteriorate it will shed some bristles into the
laminate. The bristle inclusions, up to 20 bristles per square foot,
are not cause for rejection. Occasional inclusion of small wood chips
or other small foreign objects is not grounds for rejection.

3.5 FIBER DISRUPTION

..... In all instances, it is good practice to have the glass fibers
lying flat and without wrinkles. Major wrinkles or bumps along more
than 2 inches of chord are cause for rejection in the wings, canard,
and vertical fin, particularly on the upper surfaces (compression
side). Disruptions greater than 2 inches require repairs per
paragraph 4.

3.6 FINISHING DAMAGE

..... Damage to the external structure by sanding in preparation for
surface fill and paint can occur. Occasional sanding through the
weave of the first skin ply is not grounds for rejection. Sanding
through areas greater than 2 inches in diameter completely through
the first ply or any damage to interior plies must be repaired in
accordance with paragraph 4. A damp rag passed over the sanded
surface will make the plies show up to determine how many plies have
been sanded away.

3.7 SERVICE DAMAGE

..... Damage to the glass structure will be evidenced by cracked
paint, or "brooming" of glass fibers. Both of these indicators are
clearly visible. If either type of indication is present, the paint
and filler should be sanded away, bare laminate inspected, and
repairs made per paragraph 4 as required. Where surface damage has
occurred it is also likely that local foam crushing has been
inflicted.

3.8 DELAMINATIONS
.... Delamination of glass/epoxy lap joints is evidenced by physical
separation of plies. These defects are easily visible and easily

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 repaired. The leading and trailing edges of flying surfaces (wing,
canard, vertical fin) should be free of delamination.

3.9 MULTIPLE DEFECTS

..... Where multiple types of small defects occur in a laminate
(voids, fiber dislocations, and lean areas for example), they should
not exceed a total of 10% of the surface area of the laminate, or 20%
of the wing chord at any one spanwise position.

4.0 REPAIRS
..... There are seldom single defects so massive that a major
component must be scrapped. The repair procedures described here may
be applied throughout the QUICKIE and Q2 composite sandwich
structures.

4.1 SMALL VOID REPAIRS

..... Voids up to 2 inches in diameter may be repaired by drilling a
small hole into the void and injecting the void full of epoxy. A vent
hole opposite the injection point is required to allow air to escape.

4.2 LARGE DEFECTS

..... Excessively large voids, lean areas, finishing damage, fiber
disruptions, major fiber wrinkles, or service damage may be repaired
using this procedure. Remove the rejected or damaged area by sanding
or grinding the taper the glass laminate on a slope of approximately
1 inch per ply in all directions. The plies are visible as the
sanding is done. The tapered glass edges and surrounding two inches
of glass surface must be sanded completely dull. Damaged underlying
foam should be removed and the void filled with a dry
microsphere/epoxy mixture or a replacement foam piece. The damaged
area is then laminated over using the same type and orientation of
glass plies removed, each ply lapping onto the undamaged glass at
least one inch. The whole repair area is covered with an additional
bi-directional glass ply.
4.3 DELAMINATIONS

..... A delaminated joint should be spread_ the mating surfaces

sanded dull, gap filled with flox (epoxy/flocked cotton mixture)_
then clamped shut while it cures.

5.0 MATERIALS
..... Since a wide range of similar appearing materials exists which
exhibit substantial differences in physical (structural) properties,
Quickie Aircraft Corporation has established a distribution system to
provide the amateur builder with proven acceptable materials. Quickie
Aircraft Corporation strongly discourages the substitution of
materials. Homebuilder substitutions for the basic structural
materials constitutes major structural modification to the Q2 design,
and could adversely effect flight safety.

6.0 APPLICABILITY
..... These acceptance criteria are different from and, in some
cases, much looser than for similar structures found in sailplanes
and other contemporary composite structures. These criteria apply

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 only to the QUICKIE and Q2 structures. Design safety factors in
excess of three enable somewhat relaxed acceptability criteria
compared to other similar structures.

PAGE 3-20

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-20

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 PRACTICE LAYUPS

FLAT LAYUP
.....The first practice layup that you will make is a layup of six
BID plies onto a flat surface. This is intended to give you
experience in the techniques of glass/epoxy work and to give you a
check on your workmanship. You should be able to complete this layup
in about half an hour. Protect your work bench by taping waxed paper
over an area about 24" by 24", (or, find a piece of metal and wax its
surface). This will keep the epoxy from bonding to the table top. Cut
six plies of BID that are about 12 1/2 inches by 18 inches.

.....Laminate the six plies on top of the waxed paper. Try to do your
best job of stippling and squeegeeing so that the plies are
completely wetted but not full of excess epoxy. Let the layup cure to
knife trim, about four hours. Carefully mark a 10 inch by 16 inch
rectangle and knife trim the layup to that size using a sharp razor
blade or trim knife. Allow the layup to cure completely. If you
forget the knife trim, cut the cured piece with a coping saw or band
saw.
.....Take the cured 10"x16" piece to your post office, or any
accurate scale, and ask them to weigh it for you. Your laminate
should weigh between lO 1/2 and 12 1/2 ounces. A 10 1/2 ounce layup
is about as light as can be done without voids (white areas). A 12
1/2 ounce layup has too much resin, and if you make all of the 1ayups
in the airplane this wet, your Q2 may be as much as 50 pounds over
weight. An 11 ounce layup is just about perfect. Save this piece; it
will be useful to check future 1ayups against.
CONFIDENCE LAYUP

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 .....The second practice layup is one intended to give you confidence
in the strength of your work. This layup is a sample of composite
sandwich structure and is typical of the load carrying structures in
your Q2. When this layup is finished, and completely cured, you will
subject it to a simple load test, and thus demonstrate the strength
of your workmanship.
.....First, tape a piece of waxed paper about 30 inches long to the
top of your work table. Shape a piece of green foam as shown.

.....Go to your glass cutting area and cut the glass plies shown.

.....Lay up two plies of UNI, two plies of BID, paint the foam with
micro slurry, and press it in the center. Then lay up the other BID
and UNI plies. Be careful to work a11.air bubbles out of the corners.
The best way is to stipple with the brush. The glass is oversized so
that it can be trimmed to exact dimensions later. Trim to the
dimensions shown after curing 24 hours, using a coping saw or band
saw. Allow the piece to cure for four days at room temperature before
the load test.

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 .....Now for the test: lay a broom handle or piece of tubing on the
work bench and try to break the sample by putting all of your weight
on the ends. A 200 pounder will stress the sample more than any part
of your airplane is stressed at 10 g's.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-21

BOOK END
.....The last practice part that you will make before starting on your
airplane is a book end. It takes three layups to make the book end and
involves most of the operations that you will need to learn, to build
your airplane.

.....Cut the 3 blocks of green urethane foam (2lb/ft3) as shown.

Nail them together.

.....Cut three plies of BID as shown.

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 .....Mix 4 oz. of Safe-T-Pox epoxy; using about 1 oz, make a small
batch of micro slurry and coat the foam as shown. Make dry micro from
the leftover slurry and a small radius with it as shown.

.....Lay up the first ply of BID as shown.

.....Using plain epoxy (no micro), lay up the other two plies and
allow to cure. Note how the 45° fiber orientation allows the glass to
lay down completely into the small radius.

.....Knife trim along the foam edges. After the first layup has cured
and the edges have been trimmed, the thicker foam block is carved and
contoured as shown.

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 .....Put a generous radius on the foam edges and sand the wide glass
edges dull for glass to glass bond. Use your wire brush to rough out a
depression in the middle of the block. Finish smoothing the depression
by rubbing it with a scrap of green foam. Radius the corners of the
depression. Blow or brush all of the foam dust off the surfaces.

.....Cut three plies of BID as shown.

CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 3-21

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-22

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 .....Mix Safe-T-Pox, make a small batch of slurry, and save the
remaining epoxy. Slurry the foam surface and apply two plies of BID
to the contoured surface. Start the layup in the center and work out
toward the edges. If you have trouble getting the glass into the
depression corners without bubbles, lift the plies and wipe in a
little dry micro. You will then find that it will lay smoothly in
without voids (see sketch). This depression is sharper than any in
your airplane and is intended to give you a feeling of how sharply
you can form the cloth.

.....Before laying the third BID ply down, place your favorite photo
in the depression, and then lay the third BID ply over it. Scissor
trim the excess glass cloth. Allow to cure and knife trim the edges.
The lower edge is trimmed flush with the bottom of the foam block.

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 .....Wait until the second layup is fully cured. Remove the 1 inch
foam block with a butcher knife and sanding block. Remove foam for a
1/4" flox corner and sand the glass surface dull.

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 .....Mix Safe-T-Pox, a small batch of flox, and a small batch of
micro slurry. Fill the corner with flox and slurry the foam. Lay up
the four UNI plies with the orientation shown.

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 .....Knife trim the edges. After 12-hour cure, sand the edges with
100-grit sandpaper as required for smoothness and good appearance.

.....It may at this time seem a bit ridiculous to use three layups,
about four hours work, and two days cure, just to make a book end!
But remember, this book end was not designed for ease of
construction; it was designed instead, to let you get a first hand
exposure to the following operations before starting on your
airplane; glass cutting, foam preparation (slurry), BID and UNI
layups, flat surfaces, corners, and compound curves, flox corner,
knife trim, concave and convex foam carving, glass to glass surface
preparation, and sanding edges. So, use this experience to your best
benefit and spend the curing time studying the plans. Even if you're
experienced in glass layups, the book end is a worthwhile project to
get familiar with the workability of this BID and UNI weave cloth

PAGE 3-22

Q2 Plans - Chapter 3 - Page 3-23

EDUCATION SUPPLEMENT

Rip this page out of your plans and staple it to the wall of your
shop. While it is a handy reference, it's still a good idea to read
all the words in the education chapter once in awhile. Don't skip the
details - they're all important.

BASIC LAYUP PROCEDURE

1. PREPARATION: Ply 9 or gloves on hands, shop temperature 75° +

10°.

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 2. CLOTH CUTTING: You-can get by with just a standard pair of good
fabric scissors, but the job is much easier with the large pair
of industrial scissors (Weiss model 20W). They're $25 (gulp!)
but worth it in the long run.

SURFACE PREPARATION:

FOAM - Hot-wire-cut surface needs no preparation. Sand ledges or

bumps even, fill holes or gouges with dry micro immediately
before the layup. Brush or blow away dust.

GLASS - Always sand completely dull any cured glass surface (36-
grit or 60-grit sandpaper). Re-sand if it has been touched with
greasy fingers.

METAL - Dull with 220-grit sandpaper.

3. MIX EPOXY: Follow all mixing steps shown on your epoxy balance.
Mix two minutes, 80% stirring and 20% scraping the sides and
bottom. Don't mix with a brush.

Micro Slurry - Approx equal volumes of mixed epoxy and

microspheres.

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 Wet Micro - Enough microspheres for a "thick honey" mix.

Dry Micro - Enough Micro so it won't run.

Wet Flox - Thick, but pourable mixture of epoxy and flocked

cotton.

APPLY TO SURFACE:

Layup Over Foam - Brush or squeegee on a thin micro slurry layer

(thick over urethane).

Layup Over Glass - Brush on a coat of epoxy.

4. LAY ON CLOTH: Pull edges to straighten wrinkles. If working

alone on a long piece, roll the cloth then unroll it onto the
surface.
5. WET OUT: Don't slop on excess resin; bring epoxy up from below
with a vertical "stab" of the brush ("stippling") or a squeegee
action. Start in center and work out to sides. Most of the time
of a layup is spent squeeging. Stipple resin up from below or if
required, down from above. "NOT WET, NOT WHITE."

6. SQUEEGEE: If you have excess resin, squeegee it off to the side.

Use squeegee with many light passes to move epoxy from wet areas
to dry areas.

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 7. PRELIMINARY CONTOUR FILL: Save sanding by troweling dry micro
over low areas while the glass layup is still tacky. This is
done at trailing edges, spar caps, or 'over any low areas. The
low places are overfilled with micro then sanded smooth after
full cure.
8. KNIFE TRIM: Save work of sawing and sanding edges by razor
trimming the edges at the "knife trim stage," which is about 3-4
hours after the layup.

9. GENERAL INSPECTION: Take a good look for dry glass, excess

resin, bubbles, and delamination before walking away from your
wet layup.
10. CLEANUP: If you've used Ply 9 skin barrier, you can get all
epoxy off your hands with soap and water. Epocleanse is also
excellent for removing epoxy and it returns natural skin oils.
Brushes - rinse twice in MEK and wash with soap and water.
Throwaway after two to four uses.

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 URETHANE FOAM SHAPING

.....BASIC TOOLS: Sharp butcher knife, sanding block, surfoam file,

wire brush and blocks/scraps of urethane. Use a dust mask. Hack away,
have fun.

HOT WIRE CUTTING STYROFOAM

.....Hot wire tool has a length of 56".

.....Wire must be tight. The adjustable voltage control is best, but
the job can be done with 212-volt, 6-amp battery chargers or 12-volt
car batteries. Foam block must be well supported and weighted.
Templates must be nailed on tight. First cut the basic block to size;
this determines the planform size and shape. Level the template level
lines; this determines correct twist. Set hot wire temperature for
about 1" travel through the foam in about 4 to 6 seconds with light
pressure. Do the actual cutting at about 1" every 6-7 seconds (8-10
sec. around the leading edge). Practice on scraps first.

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 HARDWARE SKETCHES

AN3 3/16"
AN509 AN525
dia. bolt
flush head washer head
AN4 1/4"
screw screw
dia. bolt

all metal
plain
lock nut wide washer
washer
AN363-1032 AN970
AN960
AN363-428

QUALITY CONTROL
CRITERIA/REPAIRS
See the Education section
END OF CHAPTER Page 3-23

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 4 - Page 4-01

INDIVIDUAL PART CONSTRUCTION

INTRODUCTION
..... The first task in the construction of your Q2 is to make many
of the small, individual parts required for assembly later. Quickie
Aircraft Corporation has found that making these parts at one time is
most efficient and will also give the builder a chance to gain
experience working with his hands on small pieces that can be easily
remade.
.....The parts include templates that are used for jigging and
rigging various portions of your aircraft. Drawings are provided
within this chapter, but primarily the templates are provided in a
series of large Appendix drawings included with these plans. All
templates are printed full size.
.....Jigging and rigging templates should be constructed from
material such as hardboard, plywood, or masonite of 1/4" thickness.
Aircraft quality materials are not required. The hot-wiring templates
for the main wing, canard, and vertical fin, as well as the control
surfaces, should be made out of thin aluminum, masonite, or aircraft
quality plywood. These templates must be smooth and wave free, so
spend considerable time on each one and sight frequently along the
line to check for waves or notches. Any wave or notch will be
reflected directly in the shape of your wing, etc. and will be
difficult and heavy to correct later on; so do a good job in the
beginning.
.....Template drawings provided for parts made as a sandwich
composite (glass-foam-glass) should still be made on the hardboard,
plywood, or masonite of 1/4" thickness. It will be much easier to
transfer the complicated curves and lines to the actual part if you
have a material more durable than heavy paper.
.....The phonolic bearing block comes delivered to you with all of
the important precision holes already drilled and reamed to the
proper size. The remaining holes are for bonding strength and are
non-critical on a precise diameter and position.
.....Be sure to identify and number each template and part so that it
can be identified easily later when it is needed. Further, group all
parts of the same family (e.g. Control System (CS), fuselage female
jigging templates, etc.) together.
.....The drawings may be glued directly onto the material with
Contact Cement. Be careful, however, that you do not paste up the
drawings crooked. Smooth out all ripples before the glue sets. Do not
use a glue that will cause excessive shrinkish.
.....The drawings are reproduced to within 1% accuracy; in most
cases, the accuracy is closer to 0.1%. However, in the final
analysis, you must build your aircraft and allow for tolerances and
errors during construction. Therefore, you may expect not all
templates to fit exactly as the drawings indicate. Large differences,
however, are reason to check thoroughly on your previous work to see
if you have followed the plans exactly.
.....One last comment; we have replacement copies of all of the

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 template drawings in case you destroy one accidentally. Don't be
bashful about spending a few bucks for a replacement rather than to
soldier on incorrectly trying to piece together a drawing that looks
like your dog ate it.

MAIN FUEL TANK CONSTRUCTION

..... The main fuel tank is a sandwich composite structure that
attaches to the bottom of the fuselage for installation in Chapter
14. In this section, you will make the basic main fuel tank, and then
set it aside until later.
.....Find the Fuel Tank Profile Template on Appendix Sheet 2.
Basically, to create the main fuel tank shape, you will heat form two
pieces of the 1/4" thick white foam around the templates, glass the
top main fuel tank surface, and finally glass the inside main fuel
tank surface after the first lamination has cured.
.....The main fuel tank is 44 inches wide, so begin by placing the
two Fuel Tank Profile Templates that distance apart on a table. Take
an appropriate size piece of the white foam, begin at the trailing
edge of the templates, and bend it around the forms until you reach
the forward edge of the templates. Carefully heat the foam with a
hair-dryer or heat gun until it will hold the shape reasonably well,
and then use some 5-MIN to attach the foam to the templates at a few
locations. Try to keep the foam from becoming too wavy as you form
it.

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 ..... At the leading edge of the templates, another piece of 1/4"
thick white foam is fitted vertically until it meets the first piece
of white foam; it too is attached with 5-MIN dabs. Round the joint
slightly where the two pieces of foam meet. Next, laminate 2 BID on
the outside of the foam oriented 45 degrees to the trailing edge of
the white foam. After allowing the lamination to cure, the next step
is to remove the Fuel Tank Profile Templates, turn the foam over, and
glass 1 BID at 45 degrees on the inside foam surface. Be careful that
the main fuel tank doesn't warp and change shape during this process.
If you have trouble with waves in the center of the tank, additional
Fuel Tank Profile Templates may be used; if the hot forming operation
does not go well, you may cut-and-join several straight line
segments. Of course, the easiest way to build the Q2 main fuel tank
is to buy it prefabricated from Quickie Aircraft Corporation or one
of its dealers.

COCKPIT CONSOLE PIECE CONSTRUCTION

..... Many pieces go into assembling the center and side consoles on
your Q2. You will make the individual pieces now, and then assemble
them to the fuselage in Chapter 14. Full-size templates are provided

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 on Appendix Sheets 1,2,& 5 for the center and side console vertical
pieces, as will as for the top side console pieces. Make 2 of each
from the'3/8" thick white foam and number them left, right, and
center, to identify where they are assembled in the aircraft. (In
airplane talk, left is the pilot's left as he sets in the cockpit.)
Fiberglass 1 BID on the inside face of each piece. The inside face is
the side that does not show after the consoles are assembled. Do not
glass the other side.

CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 4-1

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 4 - Page 4-02

..... It is important to note that if you modify either your Seatback

Bulkhead angle (see Chapter B) or Instrument panel location, or if you
are wider and bigger than normal in the hips, you may wish to change
the geometry of the pieces somewhat. If that is the case, wait until
later to make these pieces.

INSTRUMENT PANEL
..... The template provided for the instrument panel on Appendix Sheet
3 is intended to be used with the 1/8" thick aircraft quality plywood
provided with the kit. It is suggested that the panel not be mounted
in the fuselage permanently until cutouts for all instrument panel
gauges, radios, and equipment have been made. It will at times be
useful to install the panel temporarily with Bondo to assist in
jigging parts of the fuselage.

PLYWOOD PARTS
..... In this section, you will construct the following pieces:
firewall, LG4, CSI0, CSI9, CS22, BS2, and BS3. All parts are
constructed from 1/411 Marine grade plywood. See Appendix Sheet 3 for
the full size template drawings, which can be pasted on the plywood
itself. As indicated previously, the writing on the template drawings
can be read when the part is right side up. Also, the drawings
indicate the number of each piece to be made.

ALUMINUM PARTS
..... On Appendix Sheet 2, you will find the full size template for
the 0.125" thick 2024T3 Aluminum supplied. Other parts, not detailed
here will be made at a later time from aluminum.

PHENOLIC BEARING BLOCK

..... On Appendix Sheet 2, you will also find the full size template
for the predrilled Phenolic bearing. block Q2CSP. Refer to the
"Introduction" of this chapter for information.

FEMALE JIGGING TEMPLATES

..... These full-size templates provide the basis for jigging the
vertical fin, fuselage, main wing, and canard. They are found on
Appendix Sheets 2, 4, and 5. Make 2 of each, except make 1 of each of
the vertical fin jigging templates.

RIGGING TEMPLATES
..... Rigging templates allow the builder to accurately rig the
ailerons, elevator, and rudder for proper travel. These full-size
templates may be found on Appendix Sheets 1 and 5; make 1 of each.

WHEEL PANT PIECES

..... On Appendix Sheets 1 and 3 you will find full size templates for
the pieces that comprise the wheel pants, including the templates to
assist in carving the shape. Thickness of LG1, the wheel pant cores,

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 is 6.7 inches each. The 4 LG21s are made from the /" thick white foam.
The 3 carving templates are made from hardboard, plywood, masonite,
etc.

FUSELAGE BULKHEADS
..... In this section, you will construct the following bulkheads:
FS120, FS94, Seatback Bulkhead, and aft canopy bulkhead. All bulkheads
are made from the 3/B" thick white foam. You will find full size
template outlines on the large Appendix Sheets 1 and 2. On this sheet,
you will find sketches showing the foam layouts. Where two full size
template outlines are overlaid with one another, work your way in
toward the middle by making the outside template bulkhead first, then
trimming the template down so that the inside bulkhead can be made.
(e.g. make FS94 bulkhead first, then make the FS120 bulkhead).

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 ..... Each full size template outline has a forward face marked on it.
Also, the words describing the template are always written so that
they can be read when the template is right side up and facing
forward. Be sure to mark each bulkhead upon completion with the proper
information so that you don't forget which way it is jigged. Each
bulkhead will jig into the fuselage only one correct way.
.....The Seatback Bulkhead is made in two pieces and joined together
upon assembly of the fuselage. On Appendix Sheet 2, you will find the
full size templates for both the canted piece (i.e. lower piece) and
the vertical piece (i.e. upper piece). In order to conserve space, the
templates are laid out with the joint between the two pieces as the
common line at the top of the template. This is the only case in these
template drawings where the presentation is not consistent. Note also
that the template drawing for the vertical piece calls it out as being
used for the aft canopy bulkhead. To make the aft canopy bulkhead, use
the vertical piece of the Seatback Bulkhead and reduce its height to
15 inches by cutting off the bottom of the template. Also, since the
canopy is much thinner than the fuselage core, make the vertical piece
template curve "fuller" by approximately 0.25 inches. The result will
be that when compared to the vertical piece of the Seatback Bulkhead,
the aft canopy bulkhead will be not as tall, but will have a larger
radius of curvature by about 0.25 inches.

END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 4-2

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 5 - Page 5-01

HOT-WIRING

INTRODUCTION
..... In this section, you will hot-wire the foam cores for the wing,
canard, rudder, vertical fin, ailerons, and elevators.
.....Begin by reviewing the COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION chapter. That
means more than just glancing through the chapter; study it thoroughly
until you can recite it in your sleep.
.....Hot-Wiring is not difficult, but will require two people and a
precise, careful approach to obtain good quality cores.
.....Before we continue, let's emphasize a few important points that you
have already read in the COMPOSITE MATERIALS EDUCATION chapter:

1. Always hot-wire cut from the leading edge back to

the trailing edge to minimize wire lag; always go
slowly around the leading edge of any airfoil.
2. Pause at any notches in the templates to let any
wire lag catch up.
3. Retain all scraps; they may be used later.
4. All foam blocks must be weighted down carefully;
all template level lines must be re-checked just
prior to hot-wiring.
5. Hot-wire cores at the top of each block first, to
make weighting the cores down easier.
6. Any part of the template projecting aft of the
"eventual trim lines" may extend beyond the edge
of the foam block; many template locations are
critical, so strive to minimize wasted foam it
will all be used later.
7. Mark level lines on each foam core with a felt
tipped marker.
8. Smile! This is one of the funniest jobs in the
whole aircraft.

MAIN WING CORES

..... Find the two 10" x 24" X 96" nominal dimension blocks of
polystyrene foam.
.....Using straight edged trim templates, square up three sides of one
block to generate a core 50.0" long. The fourth edge (along the 50" side
- see sketch) can remain scalloped. The sketch shows the positioning of
the appropriate templates on each end of the block. Note that the sketch
end views are oriented to duplicate the "picture” one sees looking at
each end of the block.

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 .....The second block is prepared identically, except the fourth side
along the 5011 edge needs to be squared up also. Follow the layout
sketch to obtain the appropriate cores. Be sure that templates 2 and 3
can face each other without running out of width on the block.
.....The trailing edge of each template, unless otherwise indicated,
must be lined up with the edge of the polystyrene foam. This gives the
core the proper geometry for assembly into the main wing female jigging
templates.
.....The aileron cores must be trimmed on either end after hot-wiring to
48" length. Both the Trailing Edge Foam Cores and the Aileron Slot Foam
Cores (outboard) are cut considerably oversized, and will be trimmed to
the proper length during installation.

PAGE 5-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 5 - Page 5-02

CANARD CORES
..... The outboard and inboard canard cores are cut from skewed,
parallelogram style blocks, with the exception of the canard center

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 section. The reason for this is to obtain the proper sweep of the canard
when the cores are jigged together later.
.....Begin by squaring up the 10" x 20" X 96" nominal dimension block of
polystyrene foam to obtain a length of 51.2", with the skew as indicated.
Next, using the sketch provided, hot-wire the outboard canard foam cores.
Note that the bottom set of templates are upside down, so as to obtain the
proper geometry upon jigging.

..... Next, find the extra pieces from the 10" x 24" blocks (2) and face
them up to the dimensions shown. These two blocks are used for the inboard
elevator cores and inboard canard cores. The portions not used will be
used later for the outboard elevator cores.
.....Don't forget the cutouts for the elevato0 torque tubes. After the
elevator cores have been hot-wired, cut along one of the lines (e.g.4-A-B)
and hot wire down that slot and around the inside (e.g. 4-A-B-C-D-E-F-G-H-
I-B-A-4) and out again. Then cut along the other line (e.g. 4-F) and hot-
wire along that slot to complete the cut.

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 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 5-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 5 - Page 5-03

..... Finally, locate the remaining part of the 10" x 20" block and size it
as shown, in order to make the canard center section. Keep the unused
portion for cutting the vertical fin, so don1t make the height over 6.0".
Note the 0.6" taper dimension is to allow for the proper anhedral angle upon
assembly in the canard female jigging templates.
.....Take the two canard template BL48.8 and BL15 and remove the 33-A-B-C-D-
E-F-38 notch in each template. Then, hot-wire the canard stiffener out of
each inboard canard and canard center section foam core, being careful to
line the templates up properly. Store the stiffeners carefully to avoid
damage.

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 OUTBOARD ELEVATOR CORES
..... Find the two pieces of foam that you saved after hot-wiring the
inboard canard cores. (The areas are marked 'save' on the sketches). Add
some additional scrap pieces, being careful to obtain proper skew throughout
the setup, and make the inboard elevator cores. The template offsets are
necessary to obtain the proper geometry.
.....Hot wire for the elevator torque tubes like you did on the inboard
elevator cores.

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 PAGE 5-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 5 - Page 5-04

VERTICAL FIN
..... The vertical fin is cut out of the remains of the piece that you
used to make the canard center section core. (Remember, the one we told
you to keep and not throwaway). The sketch is self-explanatory.

RUDDER AND VERTICAL FIN TRAILING EDGE

..... These two cores are made from the piece marked 'save' that was left
over after hot-wiring the main wing, BL50-100 cores. The stagger shown on

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 the front view is necessary because the rudder core is 27" long, while
the remaining trailing edge length is only about 13". It is suggested
that you cut the rudder core first, and then reduce the block length to
13" for the trailing edge core. As a note of explanation, the rudder
extends up the vertical fin only part way. (Similar to the way that the
aileron extends outboard on the main wing only part way).

WHEEL PANT CORES

..... The wheel pant cores are cut out from the scrap pieces that you now
have laying around. They needn't be hot-wired, except to obtain the
proper thickness, but rather can be cut out by band saw or coping saw.

MISCELLANE0US USES
..... The remaining scrap can be used for many miscellaneous purposes,
such as supporting major components to avoid damage, soft sanding blocks,
filets to clean up airflow, etc. use your imagination.

END OF CHAPTER

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 6 - Page 6-01

AILERONS, RUDDER, AND ELEVATORS CONSTRUCTION

AILERON CONSTRUCTION
..... Both ailerons may be constructed at the same time. These
instructions will only cover the construction of the left aileron, but the
right aileron is a mirror image.
.....Begin by finding CS9, which is a 48" length of 1" O.D. x 0.035" wall
2024T3 Aluminum tubing. You have already hot-wired the aileron foam core,
so find it also. The aileron foam core should be trimmed to a 48" length.
.....Basically, you will join CS9 to the aileron foam core; sand the
joints to remove bumps and joggles; layup the bottom skin; layup the top
skin; and, finally, trim the trailing edge after installation on the main
wing.
.....Begin by sanding CS9, to remove grease, finger prints, and the
oxidation layer on the aluminum. Trial fit CS9 to the aileron foam core;
mix up some micro slurry, and then join CS9 to the aileron foam core on a
flat surface. Use nails to hold the two pieces together.
.....Once this combination has cured, sand away all of the bumps and
joggles. Next, turn the aileron over and lay it flat on the table, bottom
side up. Put Peel Ply along the trailing edge using small tacks to hold it
in place. Layup 2 UNI at 45 Deg. to the trailing edge (T.E.) At the
leading edge (L.E.) let the cloth drop vertically to the table and knife
trim at the point tangent to CS9. Trim the trailing edge to within t" of
the foam core trailing edge.
.....When this layup has cured, turn the aileron over and lay it flat on
the table. At the leading edge, feather the UNI plies to the foam to
remove the joggle. At the trailing edge, sand off the "tail" until you
reach the Peel Ply. Remove the Peel Ply, and sand away any bumps and

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 joggles. Layup 2 UNI at 45 deg. to the trailing edge. At the leading edge,
overlap a minimum of 0.5" onto the previous bottom layup. At the trailing
edge, layup glass to glass. Leave the aileron alone until it has cured to
avoid changing the alignment, and then feather the top surface UNI plies
to remove the leading edge (L.E.) joggle. .
.....Leave the trailing edge untrimmed until after the aileron is mounted
on the main wing, so that it can be made to match the trailing edge of the
wing. The joggle on the bottom of the ailerons (as well as the joggles on
the bottom of the rudder and elevators) is filled with dry micro after
installation of the aileron on the wing or during the finishing phase.

SEE NEXT PAGE FOR DETAILS OF CUTTING AND LAMINATING CLOTH ON AILERONS

CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 6-1

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 6 - Page 6-02

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 RUDDER CONSTRUCTION
..... The rudder construction is very similar to the aileron construction
that you have already completed. Re-read the AILERON CONSTRUCTION section
before proceeding further.
.....Unlike the aileron, the rudder is a tapered chord, symmetrical
surface.
.....Begin by finding CS21, which is a 27" length of 1" O.D. x 0.035" wall
2024T3 aluminum tubing. You have already hot wired the rudder foam core,
so gather that piece also. The rudder foam core should be trimmed to 27"
length.
.....Basically, you will join CS21 to the rudder foam core; sand the
joints to remove bumps and joqgles; layup the bottom skin; layup the top
skin; and, finally, trim the trailing edge (T.E.) after installation on
the vertical fin.
.....The lamination schedule on the rudder is 2 UNI on either side at 45°
to the T.E., just like the aileron. Measure the rudder foam core and cut
the UNI cloth to the proper size. Follow the AILERON CONSTRUCTION
procedures to join CS21 and the rudder foam core, as well as to do the
lamination. Because you have already performed the sequences once; guard
against becoming sloppy. The finished rudder should look much better than
the first aileron because of the practice you have had.

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 PAGE 6-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 6 - Page 6-03

ELEVATOR CONSTRUCTION
..... The elevator construction is very similar to the aileron
construction that you have already completed. Reread the AILERON
CONSTRUCTION section before proceeding further.
.....These instructions cover only the construction of the left
elevator, but the right elevator is a mirror image. It is suggested
that both elevators be constructed simultaneously. Since the elevator
has a tapered chord, BE SURE TO MAKE ONE LEFT ELEVATOR AND ONE RIGHT
ELEVATOR.
.....Begin by finding CSI6, which is a 72" length of 1" O.D. x 0.035"
wall 2024T3 aluminum tubing. You have already hot wired the inboard
and outboard elevator cores, so gather these together also. When the

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 cores are joined they should total 6 ft. in length.
.....Basically, you will join the inboard and outboard core together,
insert CSI6, replace the front foam pieces, sand the combination
after it has cured to remove bumps and joggles, layup the bottom
skin, layup the top skin, and final trim the trailing edge after
installation.
.....First, verify that the circular cutout for CS16 hot wired in the
foam cores is large enough by putting the cores, CSI6, and the fr9nt
foam piece together dry. If the front piece won't clamp up against
the core easily, carefully enlarge the cutout for CS16 until it will.
The micro slurry will require approximately 1/32 gap.
.....Next sand CSI6. Mix up micro slurry paint it both on CS16 and on
the foam wherever CS16 comes in contact with foam. Join the inboard
and outboard foam cores together with micro slurry insert CSI6; then
insert the front foam piece. Do not telescope CS16 into the core by
pushing it from one end; this will cause voids in the bond. Instead,
it should be inserted all along the span at one time. Use nails to
hold everything in place while it cures (see AILERON CONSTRUCTION),
and verify that both ends of CS16 are flush with the ends of the
elevator foam cores.
.....The elevator lamination is 2 UNI bottom and top at 45 deg. to
the trailing edge, just like the aileron. Measure the elevator foam
cores and then cut the UNI cloth to the proper size. More than one
piece of UNI will be required to cover the entire 72" elevator span.
Where the UNI pieces join, no overlap is needed, (i.e. butt joint is
OK) but stagger the joints on Ply #2 so that the foam along the butt
joint line is covered. Lay up these plies exactly like you did on the
ailerons. Don't forget the foam scraps in the end of CSI6. Do not
trim the trailing edge until after the elevators are mounted on the
canard.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 6-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 7 - Page 7-1

VERTICAL FIN CONSTRUCTION

INTRODUCTION
..... The vertical fin is a symmetrical sandwich composite structure
with solid foam core. two layers of UNI at 45 degrees to the trailing
edge of the vertical fin for torsional stiffness and surface
durability, and spanwise tapes of UNI for bending strength. The
skills that you learn in this chapter will come in handy on the more
complicated structures like the main wing and canard.

JIGGING THE VERTICAL FIN

..... Construction begins by jigging the vertical fin core on the
jigging table. Locate the vertical fin core that you previously hot-
wired along with the vertical fin trailing edge core.
.....Find the vertical fin female jigging templates(2).
.....Measure 10.0" down the trailing edge from the tip of the
vertical fin (the small chord end) and make a mark. Remove the
portion of the vertical fin core shown. This is done because the

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 rudder extends only partway up the vertical fin. Trial fit the
vertical fin trailing edge core against the vertical fin core where
the surgery had been performed. Note that the vertical fin trailing
edge core was hot-wired longer than necessary, and will have to be
trimmed to fit properly. When the cores are dry fit together, they
should make a smooth transition. If not, any depressions must be
filled with micro prior to glassing, and any bumps and joggles can be
sanded away. Join the vertical fin core- to the vertical fin trailing
edge core with micro slurry and a few dabs of 5-MIN to hold the two
together. Since the vertical fin is symmetrical, verify upon assembly
that the vertical fin trailing edge core is not attached cocked to
one side.
.....Next, glass the vertical fin slot with 2 BID at 45 degrees to
the spanwise direction. This will be easier if you support the
vertical fin core vertically temporarily.

..... Now, study the sketches and jig the vertical fin core to the
vertical fin female jigging templates with the 'tail' of the vertical
fin trailing edge core pointing down toward the jigging table. Make

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 sure that all level lines are level. Sand the ‘tail’ of the vertical
fin core so that when you laminate the skin, you will obtain a glass-
to-glass bond at the vertical fin slot.
.....The lamination of the skin and spar caps is very similar to what
you have previously accomplished in making the ailerons, elevators,
and rudder. It would perhaps be wise to review that chapter at this
time.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 7 - Page 7-2

.... Cut all of the UNI cloth for the skin and spar caps.
.....Laminate 2 UNI at 45 degrees to the trailing edge of the
vertical fin. Don't forget the peel ply tape on the trailing edge of
the vertical fin trailing edge core, and remember to knife trim the
leading edge at the tangent point and to obtain glass-to-g1ass
bonding in the vertical fin slot area. Next, laminate the two spar
caps. Permit the lamination to set unbothered for at least 24 hours.
.....After allowing the lamination to cure, you are now ready to turn
the vertical fin over and laminate the other side. If you are careful
when removing the vertical fin from the vertical fin female jigging
template, you will be able to use the templates again in the
following lamination. Check all level lines again and again before
completing the jigging.
.....The lamination for the other side of the vertical fin is
identical to what you previously accomplished. Remember to sand down
the 'tails' on both the vertical fin trailing edge core and the
vertical fin slot area. At the leading edge of the vertical fin_
feather the previous glass layup. Laminate the skin first (2 UNI at
45 degrees to the trailing edge), overlapping at the leading edge a
minimum of 1'1 and making a glass-to-glass bond at the trailing
edges, and then laminate the spar caps. Let the vertical fin cure for
at least 24 hours.
.....Later on, you will modify the shape at the vertical fin root so
that it can 'plug' into the aft fuselage. For now, content yourself
with adding a small piece of Urethane to the tip, carving it to a
pleasing shape, and glassing with 1 BID, overlapping onto the
vertical fin.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 7-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 8 - Page 8-01

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 BASIC FUSELAGE ASSEMBLY

INTRODUCTION
..... Jigging the fuselage is your first major assembly task on the Q2.
Because the Q2 fuselage shells are provided you in a prefabricated form,
jigging is simplified, and there is no messy carving of urethane foam, as
is the case with other homebuilts. Perhaps more important, the average
builder will find that with the prefabricated fuselage shells, a
smoother, aesthetically more pleasing shape will result (carving foam
puts the final shape and beauty in the eyes of the carver) and that the
final weight will be as much as 30 lbs lighter since all excess material
is removed through the prefabrication process and the vast majority of
finishing weight is eliminated. But most important probably, is that you
can be sitting in the cockpit making airplane noises in a very short time
a most definite incentive to finish the rest of the aircraft!

PRELIMINARY TRIMMING AND JIGGING OF THE SHELLS

..... The fuselage shells are shipped to you in four sections - upper and
lower forward fuselage and upper and lower rear fuselage. The upper/lower
longitudinal cut line is arbitrary; the cut line that separates the
forward fuselage from the rear fuselage coincides with the fuselage cut
line used for making your Q2 trailerable.
.....The shells are long, and must first be trimmed back to the proper
length using the trim lines on the parts. If a particular trim line is
difficult to read, trimming the part during jigging will yield the best
fit. The parts should be inspected by the builder for quality control
using the Composite Materials Education chapter as a guide. In addition,
if you measured carefully, you would find that although the shells will
look symmetrical left to right, that there is some asymmetry from left to
right. This is nothing to worry about, just note for future reference.
.....Locate the 5 fuselage female jigging templates and the bulkheads
that you made previously. Study the sketches to obtain a feel for where
jigging templates were setup to jig the fuselage approximately level with
WL15 when the jigging table is level; note that the longitudinal fuselage
spit line does not coincide with a WL. Establishing a WL is important so
that the main wing and canard can be mounted later at the proper angle of
incidence.
..... First, you should setup the fuselage female jigging templates at
the FS locations called out on the templates. Use some triangular corner
blocks made from scrap lumber to hold them vertically temporarily. Next,
set the lower fuselage shells into the fuselage female jigging templates.
Do not be concerned if you find it necessary to move the fuselage female
jigging templates fore and aft to achieve a good fit; remember that you
are not looking for a perfect fit, just a resting place for the shells
while you assemble the fuselage. Once the locations of the fuselage
female jigging templates have been established, Bondo them in place so
that they will not shift position and rest the two lower shells into
them.
.....
Trail fit the upper fuselage shells onto the bottom ones and make any
trim line corrections at this time. It looks like an aircraft doesn't it?

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 PRELIMINARY TRIMMING OF THE CANOPY CUTOUT

..... In order to provide access to the interior of the cockpit, you will
need to digress for a moment and make a fitting of the pre-trimmed canopy
to the upper for ward fuselage so that a cutout can be made in the upper
forward fuselage.
.....The forward face of the firewall is FS14.0; the forward face of the
seatback bulkhead is FS78.0. Therefore, measure 64 inches from where the
forward face of the firewall will be located along a WL to establish the
aft edge of the canopy. Next, establish a preliminary BLOO line down the
forward upper fuselage she 11 .
.....Drape the canopy, which is sent to your pre-trimmed to rough shape,
over the forward fuselage. Even up the sides by measuring the distance on
each side up from the longitudinal fuselage split line and adjusting the
canopy until the distances match. Also, check for skewing.
.....Now, take a marking pen and draw a line around the outline of the
canopy where it touches the fuselage. Some trimming of the canopy-may be
required to make it fit flush against the fuselage shell.
.....Remove the canopy and make a cut around the upper forward fuselage
shell at the line. To be conservative at this point, you may wish to not
cut quite all the way to the line, and then final trim the cutout later.
All you are trying to do here is to gain access to the inside fuselage
and to establish a rough fit on the canopy.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 8 - Page 8-02

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 JIGGING OF THE FUSELAGE
..... In this step, you will want to trim for final fitting the
following bulkheads: FS175, FS120, FS94, Seatback Bulkhead, and
Firewall. All bulkheads, including the firewall, fit inside the shells,
so that they rest against the inside skin of the shells. Begin by
drawing BLOO down the bottom fuselage shells, forward and rear. Check
the squareness of the lower forward fuselage shell where the firewall is
located. It may be necessary to trim the forward edge of the lower
forward fuselage shell to make the firewall set square. (i.e.
perpendicular to BLOO and WL15). For now, you may assume that a level
placed across the longitudinal split line at the firewall attachment
point is correct for leveling the fuselage laterally. Don't forget that
the firewall fits inside the shell. The FS120 bulkhead location is
nominally at FS120 for the forward face, but is uncritical and can be
moved plus or minus 1 inch for best fit. The FS94 bu1khead should not be
trimmed until after the Seatback Bulkhead. The FS175 bulkhead aft face
is located at FS175.
.....The location and angle of the seatback bulkhead is the prime
consideration for comfortably accommodating different pilot sizes. If
the primary pilot is over 616" tall or less than 5'5" tall, then Quickie
Aircraft Corporation should be contacted for assistance in creating a
comfortable fit. Basically, moving the break point in the Seatback
Bulkhead lower allows the

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PAGE 8-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 8 - Page 8-03

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 canted portion to be moved aft, which increases cockpit room. Moving
the break point up moves the canted portion of the Seatback Bulkhead
forward_ making the cockpit more comfortable for shorter people. The
nominal FS64 shown on the sketch as the intersection of the forward
edge of the seatback bulkhead and the fuselage bottom is optimum for
people up to 616". The forward face of the Seatback Bulkhead must be
at FS78.
.....Once the Seatback Bulkhead is trimmed for position, you may trim
the FS94 bulkhead. For many reasons_ this bulkhead does not go at
FS94, and is the only exception to the relationship between fuselage
stations and locations. The FS94 bulkhead should be located so that
the forward face of the FS94 bulkhead is at FS95. This is to allow
proper clearances and fitting for the main wing upon its installation
later.
.....All bulkheads are mounted vertically (use a level) except for
the canted part of the Seatback Bulkhead. When you feel comfortable
with the fit, (no, we are not talking about all the cockpit time you
have been giving yourself!) then bond the bulkheads to the lower
fuselage shells. The FS120 and FS175 bulkheads receive 1 BID tape
front and back around the joint with good micro squeeze out, the
seatback bulkhead and FS94 bulkhead receive 2 BID tapes front and
back, and BID tapes to join the canted and upright portions of the
Seatback Bulkhead. (Be sure to bevel the intersect ion). The firewall
is mounted with 3 BID tapes outside, wrapping around the corner
(which means you will have to radius the edge) and 2 BID tapes on the
inside. Gentlemen and Ladies, each BID tape must lap onto the
fuselage and bulkhead a minimum of 1 inch for proper structural
joining. Use the level to check for the vertical orientation, and
check the squareness of each bulkhead with respect to BLOO.
.....Do not install the instrument panel or fuel tank at this time.

MOUNTING THE CANOPY

..... Next on the agenda is to permanently attach the canopy to the
upper forward fuselage, in preparation for cutting out the canopy
frame. The procedures used are basically to final trim the cutout and
canopy for fit, then to glass the outside canopy to the outside
fuselage, and finally to fit the aft canopy bulkhead and glass the
inside of the canopy to the inside of the fuselage.
.....Note that the sketch shows a lip on the inside fuselage glass.
This lip is to assist in jigging the canopy in position for those
outside fuselage tapes. Since the canopy is much thinner than the
fuselage core, stirring sticks, foam, etc. will need to be used to
provide a firm surface to laminate the outside tapes against.
.....The canopy is joined to the outside fuselage with 2 BID tapes,
overlapping the fuselage a minimum of 1.5 . inches_ and the canopy a
minimum of 0.711. Liberal Flox is used to fill any voids prior to
glassing; peel ply the lamination and allow it to cure 24 hours:

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 ..... Next, the canopy mounted to the fuselage is turned over and the
aft canopy bulkhead fitted into position. The aft face should be
located a maximum of 1/8" forward of the forward face of the Seatback
Bulkhead with a few dabs of 5-MIN. It is permanently mounted with
flox and 2 BID tapes on either side, lapping onto the bulk head and
fuselage a minimum of 1.5 inches, and lapping onto the canopy a
minimum of 0.7 inches.

..... Also, sand down the lip in the inside fuselage skin lamination
and contour the inside fuselage skin smoothly into the canopy. Then

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 laminate 2 BID (with liberal Flox to fill the voids prior to
glassing) with 0.7 inch minimum lapping onto the canopy and a minimum
of 1.5 inches lapping on the existing fuselage inside skin.
.....Permit the laminations to cure for 24 hours.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 8 - Page 8-04

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 JOINING THE FUSELAGE SHELLS
..... This step is very exiting; you are going to actually complete
your first major structure - the fuselage.
.....In this section, you will join the top forward fuselage shell to
the lower forward fuselage shell and the top aft fuselage shell to
the lower aft fuselage shell. Do not join the four shells at the
fuselage cut line.
.....Also, each bulkhead must be joined to the shells with the same
number of tapes used previously to attach the bulkheads to the lower
fuselage shells.
.....This section will require many cure cycles due to problems in
accessing all areas at one time.
.....Begin by joining the rear fuselage shells together. 2 'BID tapes
of at least 4 inches wide are used along the joints inside and out. 1
BID tape fore and aft is used to join the FS120 and FS175 bulkheads
to the top aft fuselage shell. You will have difficulty reaching back
into the rear fuselage to laminate the tapes. You may. elect to skip
ahead to Chapter 14 and cut out the aft top fuselage where the
vertical fin assembly is inserted so that you can reach the aft face
of the FS175 bulkhead and the inside of the seam. If you elect to do
that later, don't forget about it. Of course, micro slurry is used
between the parts.
.....Joining the forward fuselage shells is somewhat more difficult
because of the access to the forward. fuselage area. Whatever area
you cannot reach at this time, can be accomplished after you cut out
the canopy frame and thus reestablish access to the forward cockpit
area.
.....The forward fuselage shells also receive 2 BID tapes at least 4
inches wide along the joints on both the inside and outside. 2 BID
tapes fore and aft are used to attach the FS94 and Seatback Bulkheads
to the top forward fuselage shell. 2 BID tapes, inside, and 3 BID
tapes outside, are used to attach the firewall to the top forward
fuselage shell. These last tapes should be at least 4 inches wide,
and don't forget to round the outside edge of the firewall/shell
junction prior to glassing. These firewall tapes are very important
to keeping the engine attached to the rest of the aircraft, so do a
careful job of laminating them. (Unlike the rest of the joints, the
firewall shell junction should be painted with epoxy, not micro-
slurry).
.....This entire section will consume many hours of work and become
very frustrating. Take pride in the fact that you will soon be able
to sit in a completed fuselage!

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 CUTTING THE CANOPY FRAME
..... In this section, you regain access to the cockpit area and
obtain your canopy frame at the same time. The sketches show the
suggested cut line for the canopy frame. This line is somewhat
arbitrary on our part, but the rest of the cockpit area is designed
around it so be careful of deviations. Mark the line with a felt
tipped marker on the shells and check for symmetry. Use a fine tooth
hacksaw blade to carefully cut through the sandwich. Put the canopy
frame/canopy assembly aside where it won't be broken accidentally.
.....Don't be surprised if the task takes several hours to
accomplish. Also, don't forget the remaining tapes to join the shells
and bulkheads together.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 8 - Page 8-05

INSTALLING THE LONGERONS

..... A longeron runs on each side of the cockpit forward from the
Seatback Bulkhead to the instrument panel. These longerons are made
of 5/8" square wood and must first be bowed to shape in order to fit
the curvature of the fuselage side.
.....Support the longerons on each end and place weights in the
middle, as shown. Permit them to stand this way for at least two
days. The wood should bow in the center after a short while. If you
wish to be very scientific, you may measure the amount of bow
required by skipping ahead and checking the curvature on the fuselage
sides where the longerons will be mounted.

..... Once the canopy frame has 'been cut out and the longerons bowed
statica11y, then they should be mounted in the fuselage to increase
the strength of the fuselage. The sketch included here shows the
location of the longerons; note that they basically go just below the
canopy frame cut out line. The longerons must be installed as shown
here in order for the canopy hinges to be positioned correctly.
.....Also note the 4 UNI glass and 2 BID glass used to mount the
longerons, in addition to the flox. These tapes significantly
increase the stiffness of the longeron, and must be lapped onto the
fuselage a minimum of 1.5 inches. The UNI orientation is along the
longeron; the BID is laminated at 45 degrees to the longeron line. Do
not use micro between the lamination and wood.

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 END OF CHAPTER

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-01

MAIN WING CONSTRUCTION

INTRODUCTION
..... The main wing is a sandwich composite structure with solid foam
core, two layers of UNI at 45 degrees to the trailing edge of the wing
for torsional stiffness and surface durability, and spanwise tapes of
UNI for bending strength. The T.E. of the wing is perpendicular to BLOO.
(i.e. the trailing edge of the wing has no sweep). The ailerons are on
the inboard section of the wing, and are actuated by an aluminum torque
tube. Shear loads are taken by a vertical shear web.
.....The main wing is constructed in one piece from tip to tip for
strength, lightness, and ease of construction.
CUTTING THE SPAR CAPS
..... Begin by cutting the UNI spar caps using the suggested layout on
this page. Letter each one of them with a felt tipped marker for
identification later, in addition to marking a centerline in the middle,
(where the cap will cross BLOO when installed on the main wing). The
technique for cutting the spar caps is described in the Composite
Materials Education Chapter and should be reviewed at this time. Be sure
to carefully roll up and store the spar caps after cutting to prevent
damage.
JIGGING THE MAIN WING
..... Construction begins by jigging the main wing on the jig table.
Locate the main wing cores that you have previously hot-wired. It is not
necessary to use either the aileron slot foam cores, or the main wing
trailing edge cores, at this time.
.....Find the main wing core female jigging templates (6).
.....Now study the sketches. The main wing cores are jigged upside down
on the jigging table using the main wing core female jigging templates.
If your table is not at least 200 inches long, you will have to extend
it with a few 2x4's using bando, in order to locate the BLOO main wing
core female jigging templates. Note that the shear web is perpendicular
to BLOG, and that the main wing core female jigging templates have
leading and trailing edges that are tangent, respectively, with the
leading edges of the main wing cores, and the main wing shear web.
.....Begin by drawing a straight line along your jigging table and
marking the locations (BL's) of the main wing core female jigging
templates. Next, temporarily set the main wing core female jigging
templates on the table so that their trailing edges are along that
straight line and their positions coincide with the appropriate BL
locations. A string stretched spanwise with a weight attached at either
end (see CANARD chapter) may be useful.

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 NOTE: See Bottom and Top Main Wing
Lamination Drawing for exact
sizing of sparcaps A thru M.

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PAGE 9-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-02

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PAGE 9-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-03

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 ..... Now begin to trial fit the four main wing cores into position.
Be careful not to put too much pressure on the foam cores and damage
them. The two 4nboard cores will have to be beveled at BLOO by
sanding because of the main wing dihedral and the other core joints
may have to be sanded to make the cores fit within the maximum
tolerance of 1/16". The level lines on all cores must remain level at
all times. This is important, so take your time.
.....Stand back and sight spanwise along the main wing to verify that
the main wing is straight, and is not bowed or kinked. Verify that
the leading edge is straight from each tip to BLOO, and that the
trailing edge is straight from tip to tip.
.....Don't be concerned if the main wing core female jigging
templates need to be moved inboard or outboard to remove any bows or
kinks. Also, a long straight edge will help you looking for kinks and
joggles.
.....When everything is perfect, mix up some bondo and carefully
bondo the main wing core female jigging templates to the table top in
the necessary locations. Next, rest the main wing foam cores on the
main wing core female jigging templates. Check the alignment and
individual level lines again. Then RECHECK the alignment and the
individual level lines. Then RE-RECHECK them again; get the message?
Stirring sticks, scrap wood, etc. can be used as shims to locate
everything properly.
.....The next step is to join the foam cores together with micro
slurry after verifying that the core-fit is within 1/16". Check,
recheck, and re-recheck each core level line and alignment as the
cores are joined. Finally, attach the main wing foam cores to the
main wing core female jigging templates with small dabs of 5-MIN,
being careful not to move the cores after the final level line and
alignment check.
CAUTION
.....The main wing foam cores must fit
within 1/16" or exotherm damage may
result.
TRIMMING THE MAIN WING FOAM
CORES
..... When the main wing is attached to the fuselage, it must fit
between the FS78 bulkhead and the FS94 bulkhead. As can be seen from
the sketch, this requires that the forward "nose" of the main wing
cores be removed. You may wish to skip ahead and read the section on
MAIN WING MOUNTING to have a clear understanding how the mating is
accomplished.
.....Go to your fuselage which is laying in the corner and sit in it.
This "cockpit time" will help give you confidence that you really can
build an aircraft. Don't forget to make airplane engine noises and
move the imaginary controls; it helps with the illusion.
.....When you are tired of this, get out of the cockpit and measure
the distance on your aircraft from the aft face of the FS78 bulkhead
to the forward face of the FS94 bulkhead. Make these two measurements
at WL30, outboard at either fuselage side at the FS78 bulkhead. They
should be the same - about 16.3". since you are only human, they will
probably each be a little different, end either more, or less, than

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 16.3". Also measure the width between the two points that you took
the measurements at.
.....You are now ready to transfer the information onto the main wing
foam cores with a felt tipped marker pen. Using the main wing shear
web and the BL00 foam core joint as the reference mark the two points
on the foam cores, and connect them with a line. That line should
represent where the FS78 bulkhead will meet the main wing core.
Verify by making measurements that this line intersects the main wing
leading edge inside the fuselage once the main wing has been mounted.
If it doesn't, then you will have to taper and round the main wing
core area outside the fuselage sides to avoid an ugly looking flat
spot on your main wing. Next, move the line aft about 0.10" to allow
for the glass buildup as you laminate the main wing skins and spar
caps. This second line on the main wing cores is the trim line.

NOTE
.....All measurements indicated above
should be made along a WL, not along
the contour of the wing.

SHOULDER HARNESS INSERT INSTALLATION

..... Each shoulder harness is installed in a Y fashion to the lower

main wing. Prior to glassing the bottom of the main wing, the
shoulder harness inserts (2) must be installed.
.....Find the two 1" square by 3/16" thick mild steel plates provided
(SH1).
.....Install one of them with flox at about BL9 left, about 2" along
contour (ac) from the trim line, flush to the surface of the main
wing foam core. Install the second SH1 similarly at BL9 right.

PREPARING THE MAIN WING CORES FOR GLASSING

..... At this point, the main wing cores should be jigged on your
jigging table upside down, 5-minuted and bondo’ed in place, and not
about to move under anything short of an earthquake.
.....Use a hard block to clean up all joggles, excess micro, and any
bumps on the main wing cores. At BL00, round the joint so that the
glass will flow smoothly across the joint. At the T.E. (shear web),
round the corner so that the glass will flow smoothly down the face
of the shear web.
.....This is your last chance to determine the shape of your main

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 wing, so make the main wing cores as perfect as you know how. And, oh
yes, RE-RE-RECHECK THE MAIN WING TIP LEVEL LINES. If you are not
proud of everything that you have accomplished on the main wing so
far, don't go on to the next step until you are.
LAMINATING THE BOTTOM SKIN AND BOTTOM SPAR CAPS
..... Study the two sketches labeled "Bottom Main Wing Lamination"
and "Top Main Wing Lamination" very carefully.
.....Today, you will only be doing the "Bottom Main Wing Lamination",
but that one is enough, and will take 3 individuals about 2.5 hours
to complete. (The third individual mixes epoxy while the other two do
the lamination).
.....To summarize the lamination, first you will laminate the wing
skin, which is 2 plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the main wing T.E.,
and then you will laminate spar caps A thru F. Begin by getting your
shop organized for a big layup. Next, cut the UNI for the main wing
skins as indicated on the sketch, labeling each one so that you will
know where it goes.
.....Once you start this lamination, you will have to continue it
until you finish, so if you want lunch, a cup of coffee, or a nap,
now is the time to do it.

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PAGE 9-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-04

..... The first UNI ply is put on at 45 degrees to the main wing
T.E.. The fibers must be straight, so take your time getting the

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 wrinkles and kinks out. Don't get ahead of yourself on pouring
microfoam slurry on the foam; otherwise, by the time you are ready to
place the UNI over a particular area, you will have a messy, hard
lump of slurry. Work with one piece of cloth at a time, and with
small batches of slurry and epoxy. Also, unrolling the UNI cloth as
needed is advised to reduce the awkwardness of the large pieces.
Scrap UNI can be used to fill in any small spots not covered by the
large pieces of UNI.
.....At the leading edge of the main wing cores, let the UNI cloth
hang vertically down. Trim to within 1" of the tangent point, just
like you did on the ailerons. At the trailing edge, allow the cloth
to drape around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web so
that the UNI is at 45 degrees to-the T.E. on that face also. Trim the
main wing tip UNI to within t" of the main wing core. Inboard, along
the trim line, also allow the UNI to drape over the edge and down to
the bottom.
.....No overlap is required on the UNI wing skin; just butt fit the
skins together.' You must, however, squeegee the cloth well to avoid
building up excess epoxy in the lamination.
.....The second ply of UNI is also placed at 45 degrees to the T.E.
of the main wing cores but in the other direction from the first ply,
so that the two plies of UNI will have their major fiber orientations
at 90 degrees to each other. The second ply will be easier because it
is being layed up over glass and not the foam. Try to avoid having
the butt joints from the first ply of UNI coincide with the butt
joints from the second ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI is also
draped around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear web, so
that the shear web has two plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E. and
at 90 degrees to each other. Trim all edges like you did on the first
ply.
.....Spar Caps A thru F are laminated in that order, with the widest
cap going on first. To pick up a spar cap and place it on the main
wing, use three people. While one person holds each end of the spar
cap, the third removes any frazzles, being careful not to reduce the
width below what is called out for the particular spar cap. That
third person then stands at BL00 and positions the spar cap in the
proper location (centerline on BL00 and proper distance from the
leading edge of the main wing) while the other two individuals keep
the cloth off of the foam so that it won't stick. When the center
(third) person is ready, one of the individuals holding an end lays
it down spanwise on the main wing in the proper position (in relation
to the main wing L.E.) and removes any wrinkles and kinks. This can
be a slow process, so stay patient. The center individual makes sure
that the spar cap smoothly "turns the corner" at BL00.
.....Squeegee each spar cap from BL00 outboard to keep the UNI fibers
straight. Work out any wrinkles or kinks by pulling carefully on the
fibers.
.....The remaining spar caps are each put on in a similar fashion. We
know you are getting tired, but you must squeegee each cap well to
avoid building up considerable epoxy on the bottom plies. Use extra
epoxy very sparingly on the last spar cap.
.....Locate the places where you bonded in the two SH1's (the 1" x 1"
mild steel plates) and laminate a pad of 20 plies of BID over each
one. The BID cloth should be about 2" x 2" dimensionally.
.....Before quitting, peel ply all joints, and the first two inches
of the main wing L.E.. Also, knife trim the L.E. at the tangent

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 point, just like you did on the aileron. Then, clean up your mess and
go celebrate your wizardry as a laminator. DON"T TOUCH THE MAIN WING
FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS.

NOTE
.....If you have room and can be patient, it would be better
to permit the bottom main wing lamination to cure for 48 hours
plus. In the meantime, you could skip ahead and perhaps do the
aileron slot foam core slot laminations. But, if your like
everyone else, you won't be able to resist making that jigging
table into a main wing for your Q2 as quickly as possible.

LAMINATING THE TOP SKIN AND TOP SPAR CAPS

..... Build a framework out of scrap lumber and bon do to hold the
main wing jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the
pictures, we suggest that lumber run from tip to tip with a few cross
pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything together so that the
main wing won't move, (and, yes, we know the pictures show the
canard, but we forgot to take some of the main wing jigging).

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 ..... Next, when you are sure of your framework, break loose the main
wing core female jigging templates with a hammer, (they won't be
needed again), and turn the main wing over so that the unglassed
cores are upward. Set the main wing on the jigging table once again.
.....Check the main wing tip level lines. Jig, and shim, and bondo
until the main wing tip level lines are perfect; almost doesn't
count. Then bondo the heck out of the jigging as if you were
expecting a few kids to use your shop for playing cowboys and
Indians.
.....At the leading edge, feather the bottom skin to a feather edge
at the tangent point just like you did with the ailerons. Prepare the
main wing core top surface just like you did the main wing core
bottom surface. (See "Preparing The Main Wing Cores For Glassing")
you are now ready to laminate the top main wing skins and top spar
caps. Do it similarly to the bottom lamination. The skin is the same
two UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E., draping over the T.E. down to the
bottom of the shear web and the spar caps are G thru M this time. At
the leading edge of the main wing, overlap the bottom skin with the
top skin a minimum of 1". Rather than let the spar caps drape over
the T.E. and down the shear web, trim the caps at the T .E.
.....Peel ply the shear web and all joints. Don't touch the wing for
48 hours after you have finished it. Instead, go sit in the fuselage
some more to pass the time, or else skip ahead and keep working.
Before removing the lumber, bondo a level board at about midspan on
each wing half. This is to help in attaching the main wing to the
fuselage later. Attach the level boards carefully, so that they will
agree.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-05

GLASSING THE AILERON SLOT FOAM CORE SLOTS

.....The aileron slot foam core inside slots are glass ed with 2 BID
at 45 degrees to the spanwise direction. (i.e. T.E.). Knife trim to
the edge of the foam core, as shown on the sketch.

SHOULDER HARNESS INSTALLATION

..... Remember those 20 BID plies that you laminated over the two
SH1's when you performed the "BOTTOM" skin and spar cap lamination?
Now is the time to drill and tap each SH1 with a 1 x 28 tap for a AN4
bolt later. The sketch shows the complete assembly. We don't
recommend actually attaching the shoulder harnesses until after the
main wing is mounted to the fuselage. Note that both shoulder harness
straps of each shoulder harness assembly are attached to one bolt, in
a Y fashion. Also, the 4130 Steel Bushing should be as short as
possible, to reduce bending loads on the bolt.

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 INSTALLING THE AILERON SLOT FOAM CORES
..... This step is critical to having a nice looking main wing and
aileron union, so follow the directions carefully.
.....To start out with, the aileron slot foam cores that you hot-
wired way back when were purposely made longer than necessary. Your
first task is to size them for the correct length. To do this, you
must measure your fuselage width at the fuselage/aileron slot foam
core junction. Take measurements of the main wing, skip ahead to the
section on "Mounting The Main Wing To The Fuselage", and determine
that dimension, on either side of BL00. Mark the proper points on the
main wing. Wait to trim the inboard aileron slot foam cores until
after they have been, installed on the main wing.
.....Next, determine where to trim the outboard aileron slot foam
cores. Since each elevator was made 48" long, measure 48" plus 1 inch
(for aileron/ fuselage clearance) from your first mark outboard and
place another mark. This is where the outboard aileron slot foam core
will be trimmed, but, as before, wait until after installation to do
it.
.....Skip ahead to the CANARD chapter, "Installing The Elevator Slot
Foam Cores" section for a sketch showing the geometry of the
attachment. It is easier to check clearances top and bottom if the
main wing is jigged vertically on the jig table. This will also keep
the joint from running. A few scrap pieces of lumber and bondo should
be sufficient.
.....The important point to remember is that at the shear web attach
point along the span, the top and bottom of the aileron slot foam
cores should flow smoothly into the top and bottom surfaces of the
main wing.
.....Once the attachment has cured, trim the aileron slot foam cores

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 back to the "Eventual Trim Line". (See CANARD chapter, "Installing
The Elevator Slot foam Cores" section for a sketch showing the
detail). Next, sand down the "tails" so that you can achieve a
minimum of 0.4" of glass-to-glass bond with the inside slot
lamination, while at the same time fairing everything nicely into the
main wing contour forward of the shear web. At the glass-to-glass
bond area, you must sand, away all micro and epoxy and get down to
the glass. Spend some time looking at the surfaces getting the
alignment the best that you can. When everything is ready, laminate 2
BID at 45 degrees to the main wing shear web on the aileron slot foam
cores, top and bottom, being sure to achieve at least 0.4" of glass-
to-glass bond, and lapping up onto the main wing at least I". Note
that the sketch in the CANARD chapter calls out dry-micro fill if
required at the top and bottom of the shear web joint. Trim the
inboard and outboard aileron slot foam cores at the marks previously
made on the, canard main wing, respectively. If the aileron slot foam
cores want to stick up a little bit, this is OK since that can be
sanded later. Any dip, however, will have to be filled with micro.
This fit is important cosmetically, so take you time.
.....The aileron slot foam cores are installed to the main wing shear
web with micro-slurry on the foam cores and epoxy on the shear web
(don't forget to remove the Peel Ply!), plus a few dabs of 5-MlN to
keep the two attached during cure.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-06

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 OUTBOARD AILERON PIVOT ASSEMBLY
..... These instructions cover only the assembly of the left outboard
aileron pivot, but the right outboard aileron pivot is a mirror image,
and may be accomplished at the same time.
.....First, find a QCSM7 pivot and position it about 0.25" inboard of
the outboard end of the aileron using 3 MSP43 cherry rivets spaced
radically at least 0.4" apart.
.....Find CS10, and insert a QCSM5 stud as shown with the 3 washers and
the 2 AN363-428 nuts. There must be a minimum of 0.6" from the AN960-4
washer inboard to the end of the QCSM5 stud. This is to require the
aileron to be moved inboard at least 1/4" before it II falls off" the
QCSM5 stud for disassembly. Finally, round the end of the QCSM5 stud
slightly to assist in mounting the aileron.
.....The sketch shows the outboard aileron pivot assembly as it will
look later when installed on the main wing shear web. Although not
shown, at that time, the aileron slot foam core and aileron trailing
edge foam core will be trimmed so that CS10 will fit flush against the
main wing shear web.

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 AILERON INSTALLATION
..... In this section, you will mount the ailerons to the main wing.
After the main wing is attached to the fuselage, it will only be
necessary to connect the CS5 and CS12 push-pull tubes in order to have a
functioning aileron control system. This section is very important, so
take your time and read through the entire section several times prior
to starting any of the procedures.
.....Begin by jigging the main wing vertically on your jig table with
the L.E. pointed down. This will make it much easier to rig the
ailerons.

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 ..... Take a piece of QCSM1 and make two 1.8" length. pieces to use as
aileron reducers. A saw cut and perhaps some light sanding will be
necessary to make them fit snugly and flush with the inboard ends of the
two ailerons.
.....Find the phenolic bearings CS6 (2) and CS7 (2). Dull the phenolic
completely with sandpaper except inside the reamed 5/8" diameter holes.
Be sure that the other 1/2" diameter holes have been drilled out. These
are non-critical on diameter, but must be there to assist bonding of the
phenolic to the structure. They are NOT lightening holes.
.....Find Q2CSA4 (2). Make CSll (2) from 0.625" O.D. X 0.065" wall 4130
steel tubing. The length of CS11, which can be critical for disassembly,
should be about 3/4" less than half the width of the fuselage at the
aileron torque tube (CS9)/ fuselage junction.
.....The right and left aileron mountings are mirror images of one
another. Each aileron has an outboard hinge (CS10), an inboard hinge
(CS6), and a center fuselage hinge (CS7). The Q2CSA4 slips over a CS11,
which passes through the CS6 phenolic and slips into the aileron
reducer, which is mounted on the inboard end of the aileron. Clear, heh?

PAGE 9-6

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-07

.....

The following procedure was developed to help you get the ailerons
mounted without binding, with the proper clearances, and with the
ability to get them off again:

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 1. Trim the inboard edges of the aileron slot foam
cores flush with the sides of the fuselage. (See
"Installing The Aileron Slot Foam Cores").
2. Slip Q2C5A4 over C511; slip C56 over the other end
of C511, and slip that same end of C56 into the
aileron reducer, which you have already mounted
flush with the inboard end of C59, the aileron
torque tube looks like a shiskabob doesn't it?
3. Slip C57 on the end of Q2C5A4.
4. What follows is a very qualitative fitting
process. Using at least two people, dry fit C510,
C56 and C57 firmly against the main wing shear web
in the appropriate positions (C510 against inboard
end of outboard main wing trailing edge core, C56,
and C57 held in place and check for binding. Work
slowly, correct any binding or clearance problem
by modifying C510, C56, and C57. Please, do one
thing at a time.

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PAGE 9-7

Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-08

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 5. When the complete aileron assembly fits well, and
rotates freely, mix up some 5-MIN with flox and
temporarily mount CSIO, CS6, and CS7 in place
against the main wing shear web, again checking
for alignment, clearances, and binding.
6. If you haven't already done so, repeat for the
other aileron.
7. Remove all of the pieces except CS10, CS6, and
CS7. Carefully lay up the BID cloth that
permanently holds CS10, CS6, and CS7 in place.
These parts must be solidly mounted so that they
cannot be accidentally broken off while in
service.
8. Once the laminations in step 7 have cured, you are
ready to drill in the aileron assemblies. Find
your aileron rigging template, reassemble
everything and set the ailerons at 0 degrees.
Also, the "ear" on each A2CSA4 should point
forward and be parallel to a WL. Verify that the
aileron is pushed outboard against CS10. Verify
that CSll overlaps 1.0" into A2CSA4 and 1.8" into
the aileron reducer. Now drill in very carefully
the two bolts on each side that fasten Q2CSA4,
CSll, and CS9/aileron reducer together. BE
CAREFUL! Don't let the holes elongate; use a small
drill and work up in size.

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PAGE 9-8

Q2 Plans - Chapter 9 - Page 9-09

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Downloaded from www.Manualslib.com manuals search engine
 9 Finally, make the aileron
. spacer, which has a nominal
1.0" length. This spacer should
be sized lengthwise to allow
the aileron to have a lateral
freeplay (i.e. inboard to
outboard) of about 0.05".
Assemble each aileron, and
again check for binding,
misalignment, or excessive
freeplay.

..... Note the attachment of each CSI0 wedged between the main wing
trailing edge core and the aileron slot foam core. The main wing tips
are carved and glassed later on, as an option.

INSTALLING THE MAIN WING TRAILING EDGE CORES

..... These cores begin at the outboard end of each CSI0, and run
outboard to the main wing tip. When originally hot wired, they were made
longer than necessary on the inboard end, so fit each one into position
and trim away the excess.

.....The bonding and laminating process is very similar to what you have
accomplished previously on the aileron slot foam cores. Attach the cores
to the main wing with micro slurry on the cores and epoxy on the main
wing shear web (remembering to remove the peel ply), making sure that
the top and bottom surfaces make a smooth transition to the main wing
curvature. Next, laminate 2 BID on the lower surface of the main wing
trailing edge cores, overlapping onto the main wing cores a minimum of

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 1". When cured, laminate 2 BID on the top surfaces, using a glass-to-
glass trailing edge treatment exactly like you did on the aileron. If
you are careful, you may be able to accomplish the laminations with the
wing jigged vertically, to save time; however, beware of epoxy runoff
yielding dry lamination. An alternative method would be to do each
surface on the flat, instead.

END OF CHAPTER

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-01

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 CANARD CONSTRUCTION

INTRODUCTION
..... The Q2 canard has a swept leading edge, swept trailing edge,
anhedral, a plain elevator which also effectively serves as a flap,
and, in addition to carrying about 65% of the aircraft's weight, also
provides the energy absorption (i.e. “spring”) for the main landing
gear that is mounted at the canard tips. It is a sandwich composite
structure with solid foam core, two layers of UNI at 45 degrees to
the trailing edge of the canard for torsional stiffness and surface
durability, and spanwise tapes of UNI for bending strength. Shear
loads are taken by a vertical shear web, and the elevators are
essentially fullspan, being actuated by an aluminum torque tube.
.....The canard is constructed in one piece from tip to tip for
strength, lightness, and ease of construction.
.....Because of these factors, the canard is more complex and more
critical than the main wing. However, the basic procedures are
identical, and the experience you have gained in completing the main
wing for your Q2 should allow you to construct the canard in the same
amount of time. You may wish to reread the chapter on the MAIN WING
to review the procedures.
CUTTING THE SPAR CAPS
..... Begin by cutting the UNI spar caps using the suggested layout
on this page. Letter each one of them with a felt tipped marker for
identification later, in addition to marking a centerline in the
middle (where the cap will cross BLOO when installed on the canard.
Be sure to carefully roll up and store the spar caps after cutting to
prevent damage.
GLASSING THE ELEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORE SLOTS
..... Construction begins by glassing the inside slot of the elevator
slot foam cores with 2 BID at 45 degrees to the spanwise direction
(i.e. T.E.). Knife trim to the edge of the foam core.
.....Next, get out your hot-wire cutting equipment and set it up.
Take the forward part of each canard core templates, and nail them
back onto the already hotwired cores, being sure to check the level
lines and to weight down the cores. Then, hot-wire the 51-A-B-C H-I-
J-48 sections on all canard foam cores. Store the elevator slot foam
cores for later use.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-02

JIGGING THE CANARD

..... Next, you will need to jig the canard cores on the jig table. It
would probably be a good idea to clean off the jig table of any bondo
chips, wood, epoxy, etc., so that you start with a clean surface.
.....Find the canard core female jigging templates (6)
.....Now study the sketches. The canard cores are jigged upside down on
the jigging table using the canard core female jigging templates. If
your table is not at least 200 inches long, you will have to extend it
like you did on jigging the main wing. As on the main wing, the shear
web is perpendicular to WLOO, and the canard core female jigging
templates have leading and trailing edges that are tangent,
respectively, with the leading edges of the canard, and the canard shear
web.
.....Begin by drawing a straight line along your jigging table and
marking the locations (BL's) of the canard core female jigging
templates. Next, temporarily set the canard core female jigging
templates on the jigging table .so that their trailing edges are the
distances from the straight line, called out in the accompanying
illustrations. Note that the outboard canard core female jigging
templates (the ones at BL100 right and BL100 left) are right on the
straight line. A string stretched spanwise with a weight attached at
either end may be helpful in establishing and keeping the straight line.

.....Now begin to trial fit the five canard cores into position. Be
careful in handling the foam cores to prevent damage to the foam. All
cores may have to be sanded in order to make them fit together within
the maximum tolerance of 1/16". The canard center section core is
already beveled to compensate for the anhedral angle, but it may still
have to be trimmed and sanded to obtain the fit on the joint within
1/16". The level lines on all cores must remain level at all times. This
is important, so take your time.
.....Stand back and sight spanwise along the canard to verify that the
canard is straight, and is not bowed or kinked. Verify that the leading
edges are straight, and that the trailing edges are straight also.
.....Don't be concerned if the canard core female jigging templates need
to be moved inboard or outboard to remove any bows or kinks. Also, a
long straight edge will help you looking for kinks and joggles, or dips.

.....When everything is perfect, mix up some bon do and carefully bondo

the canard core female jigging templates to the table top in the
necessary location. Next, rest the canard cores on the canard core
female jigging templates. Check the alignment and individual level lines
again; then again and again until every thing is Perfect, with a capital
P. The next step is to join the foam cores together with micro slurry

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 after verifying that the core fit is within 1716". Check, recheck, and
re-recheck each core level line and alignment as the cores are joined.
Note that the canard center section foam core gets a glass rib of 2 BID
and flox corners at each end of the canard center section foam core. The
flox corner should be added after the entire series of canard cores have
been joined and cured.

CAUTION
.....The canard foam cores must fit within
1/16" or exotherm damage may result.
.....Core preparation is the single most
important factor in obtaining an accurate,
strong, and lightweight canard, so don't hurry
through this section unless you don't mind
regretting it for years to come.

PREPARING THE CANARD CORES FOR GLASSING

.....
.....At this point, the canard cores should be jigged on your jigging
table upside down, 5-minuted and bondo’ed in place, and able to take a
direct hit from a 88 mm howitzer without budging from its location.
.....Use a hard block to clean up all joggles, excess micro, and any
bumps on the canard cores. At either end of the canard center section
core, round the joint so that the glass will flow smoothly across the
joint. At the T.E. (shear web), round the corner so that the glass will
flow smoothly down the face of the shear web.
.....This is your last chance to do it right, so spend at least another
hour making these cores as perfect as you know how. While your at it,
check, recheck, and re-recheck all the canard level lines that you can
see until you can do it in your sleep. If you are not proud of
everything sitting on that jig table, don't go on to the next step until
you are.

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 PAGE 10-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-03

PAGE 10-3

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-04

LAMINATING THE BOTTOM SKIN AND BOTTOM SPAR CAPS

..... Study the two sketches labeled "Bottom Canard Lamination", and
"Top Canard Lamination" very carefully.
.....In this section, you will only be doing the "Bottom Canard
Lamination", but that one should keep you and two others busy for
about 3 hours. (The third individual mixes epoxy while the other two
do the lamination).
.....To summarize the lamination, first you will laminate the wing
skin, which is 2 plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the canard shear web,
and then you will 1aminate spar caps A thru F .
.....Organize your shop for the big layup. Measure the canard cores,
and cut the UNI for the main wing skins, labeling each one for
identification.
.....Rather than have you reread and use the section on "Laminating
the Bottom Skin and Bottom Spar Caps" that you used for the main
wing, we are going to reprint and rewrite it here. (It helps make the
plans look more complex).
.....The first UNI ply is put on at 45 degrees to the canard shear
web T.E.. The fibers must be straight, so take your time getting the
wrinkles and kinks out. Don't get ahead of yourself on pouring micro
slurry on the foam; otherwise, by the time you are ready to place the
UNI over a particular area, you will have a messy, hard, lump of
slurry. On the other hand, with the experience you have had on the
main wing, you should be within 10% of the maximum laminating speed
that you will ever obtain. Work with one piece of cloth at a time,
and with small batches of slurry and epoxy. Unrolling the UNI cloth
as needed is advised to reduce the awkwardness of the large pieces.
Scrap UNI can be used to fill in any small spots not covered by the
large pieces of UNI.
.....At the leading edge of the canard cores_ let the UNI cloth hang
down vertically. Trim to within 1" of the tangent point, just like
you did on the main wing. At the trailing edge (T.E.), allow the
cloth to drape around the corner and down to the bottom of the shear
web so that the UNI is at 45 degrees to the T.E. on that face also.
Trim the canard tip UNI to within 1" of the canard core.
.....No overlap is required on the UNI wing skin; just use a butt
joint.
.....The second ply of UNI is also place at 45 degrees to the T.E. of
the canard core, but in the other direction from the first ply, so
that the two plies of UNI will have their major fiber orientations at
90 degrees to each other. Try to avoid having the butt joints from
the first ply of UNI coincide with the butt joints from the second
ply of UNI. The second ply of UNI is also draped around the corner
and down to the bottom of the shear web, so that the shear web has
two plies of UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E. and at 90 degrees to each
other. Trim all edges like you did on the first ply. As good
laminators you will, of course, squeegee to the nth degree to remove

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 any excess epoxy. By this time, if your floor does not contain enough
hardened epoxy to build the Q3, you are either very accurate at
mixing epoxy, or else you are not working hard enough at squeegeeing
off excess epoxy.
.....Spar caps A thru F are laminated in that order, with the widest
caps going on first. To pick up a spar cap and place it on the canard
use three people. While one person holds each end o( the spar cap,
the third removes any frazzles, being careful not to reduce the width
below what is called out for the particular spar cap. That third
person then stands at BLOO and positions the spar cap in the proper
location (centerline on BLOO and proper distance from the leading
edge of the canard) while the other two individuals keep the cloth
off of the foam so that it won't stick. When the center (third)
person is ready, one of the individuals holding an end lays it down
spanwise on the canard in the proper position (in relation to the
canard L.E.) and removes any wrinkles and kinks. This can be a slow
process, so keep your cool. Then the individual on the other end does
likewise. The center individual makes sure that the spar cap smoothly
"turns the corner on either end of the canard center section ewe.
.....Squeegee each spar cap from BLOO outboard. Work out any wrinkles
by pulling carefully on the fibers.
.....The remaining spar caps are each put on in a similar fashion.
Although you may be getting tired, you must rise up to the occasion
and concentrate on squeeging each spar cap well to avoid excess epoxy
which leads to excess weight. Use extra epoxy very sparingly on the
last spar cap. Every other spar cap (i.e. A, C, E, etc.) is allowed
to drape over the T.E. and down the shear web to the bottom. Trim B,
0, F, etc. at the I.E.
.....Before quitting, peel ply all joints, and the first two inches
of the canard L.E.. Also, knife trim the L.E. at the tangent point,
just like you did on the main wing. Finally, clean up the mess, and
DON'T TOUCH THE CANARD FOR AT LEAST 24 HOURS.

NOTE
.....If you have room, and can be patient, it
would be better to permit the bottom main wing
lamination to cure for 48 hours plus. In the
meantime, you could skip ahead and work on fuel
system, canopy installation, etc.

INSTALLING THE CANARD STIFFENER

..... Build a framework out of scrap lumber and bondo to hold the
canard jigged in place while you turn it over. As shown in the
pictures in the MAIN WING chapter in the "Laminating The Top Skin And
Top Spar Caps" section, we suggest that the lumber run from tip to
tip with a few cross pieces. Don't get fancy, just tie everything
together so that the main wing won't move.
.....Next, when you are sure of your framework)break loose the canard
core female jigging templates with a hammer (they won't be needed
again), and turn the canard over so that the unglassed cores are
upward. Set the canard on the jigging table once again.
.....Check the canard tip level lines. Jig, and shim, and bondo until
the canard tip level lines are absolutely perfect; almost, or maybe,
doesn't count. Then use bondo to secure all of the jigging so that a

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 jackhammer will be required to remove the canard from the jigging
table.
.....You are now ready to install the canard stiffener. That
stiffener runs along the top of the inboard canard foam cores and
across the canard center section core. This foam stiffener that you
previously hotwired out of the canard cores will be flimsy, so be
careful with it. Clean up the canard slot that the stiffener rests in
with a hard block and sand paper, so that the lamination you will be
doing will transverse the joints smoothly. The glass ribs at either
end of the canard center section will have to be trimmed back so as
not to interfere with the stiffener. The lamination schedule, as
called out in the sketch, is to layup 1 UNI first, then 2 BID, and
then 1 UNI on top for the final ply. Take your time, and make the
fibers straight. The 2 BID are laminated at 45 degrees to the
spanwise direction. Knife trim the lamination flush with the top
surface of the canard cores and let the lamination cure.
.....Next, install the foam stiffener with micro slurry. It is best
to dry fit the part first, since it may be necessary to do some
trimming, or else use dry micro to obtain a smooth fit. Don't worry
if the top of the foam stiffener projects above the top canard
surface a small amount; this can be trimmed back after cure.
.....Once the foam stiffener installation has cured, dig out the foam
as shown and install two flox corners flush with the top canard
surface. Also, install the flox corners on either end-of the canard
center section core.

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PAGE 10-4

Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-05

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 PREPARING THE TOP CANARD FOAM CORES FOR GLASSING
..... At the leading edge, feather the bottom skin to a feather edge at
the tangent point just 1ike you did on the main wing. Prepare the canard
top surface just like you did the canard bottom surface. (See "Preparing
The Canard Cores For Glassing"). Be sure and spend time carefully
smoothing out the canard stiffener area, and the flox corners on either
end of the center section core. Remember that the flox corners are much
harder than the foam surrounding them, so go easy.
.....You must really prepare the top canard surface well, and remove all
bumps, joggles, and other irregularities if you want a pretty looking,
lightweight canard on your aircraft. REMEMBER! If you are not satisfied
with how the canard top surface foam cores look, Don't go on to the next
step.

LAMINATING THE TOP SKIN AND TOP SPAR CAPS

..... Just to be sure, check the canard tip level lines one more time,
and shim to get both of them absolutely level. (Have you noticed how they
seem to shift by osmosis?)

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 .....The top canard skins are laminated similarly to the bottom skin
lamination. The skin is the same two UNI at 45 degrees to the T.E.,
draping over the T.E. down to the bottom of the shear web, and the spar
caps are G thru Q this time. At the leading edge of the main wing,
overlap the bottom skin with the top skin a minimum of 111. Rather than
let all the spar caps drape over the T.E. and down the shear web, trim
every other one off at the T.E.. Peel Ply the shear web and all joints.
.....Don't touch the canard for at least 48 hours. Before removing the
lumber, bondo a level board at about midspan on each canard.
.....You now deserve to celebrate for two days straight; you have just
finished the final MAJOR layup in your aircraft. By the way, that top
canard lamination that you just completed was the most difficult and
critical lamination in the whole aircraft, and yet we have such
confidence in you at this point, that we only devoted a very few words to
it.

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 PAGE 10-5

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-06

INSTALLING THE ELEVATOR SLOT FOAM CORES

..... This step is critical to having a nice looking canard and
elevator union, so follow the directions carefully.
.....To start out with, the elevator slot foam cores that you hot-
wired way back when were purposely made longer than necessary. Your
first task is to size them for the correct length. To do this, you
must measure your fuselage width at the fuselage/elevator slot foam
core junction. Take measurements of the canard, skip ahead to the
section on "Mounting The Canard To The Fuselage", and determine that
dimension, on either side of BL00. Mark the proper points on the
canard. Wait to trim the inboard elevator slot foam cores until after
they have been installed on the canard.
.....Next, determine where to trim the outboard elevator slot foam
cores. Since each elevator was made 72" long, measure 6 feet plus 1
inch (for elevator/fuselage clearance) from your first mark outboard
and place another mark. This is where the outboard elevator slot foam
core will be trimmed, but, as before, wait until after installation
to do it.
.....The elevator slot foam cores are unique in that both the brake
line conduit and the pitot tube must run through the lower, forward
edge as shown on the sketch.
.....The pitot tube runs out the right canard, exits at about BL40,
and is shaped as shown.
.....In the right canard, the brake line conduit enters the inboard
end of the elevator slot foam core within 1/2" of the top edge, and
continues all the way outboard to the end of the outboard elevator
slot foam core on the right side of the aircraft. Let the Nylaflow
tubing extend about 4" beyond the end of the slot foam core. On the
left canard, do the same routing. You should use a router bit in the
Dremel to route out the foam. Any extra "room" in the foam is filled
with dry micro. Both the brake line conduit and pitot tube are
installed with 5-MIN dabs to hold them in place, and then surrounded
with dry micro, as shown. Keep both lines, but particularly the brake
line conduit, as straight as practical. The pitot tube tubing should
extend into the fuselage about 12".
.....The elevator slot foam cores are installed to the canard shear
web with micro-slurry on the foam cores and epoxy on the shear web
(don't forget to remove the Peel Ply!), plus a few dabs of 5-MIN to
keep the two attached during cure.
.....It is easier to check clearances top and bottom if the canard is
jigged vertically on the jig table. This will also keep the joint
from running. By this time, you should be so good at jigging, that we
won't even talk about how to do it.
.....The important point to remember is that at the shear web attach
point along the span, the top and bottom of the elevator slot foam
cores should flow smoothly into the top and bottom surfaces of the
canard, respectively. If the elevator slot foam cores want to stick
up a little bit, this is OK since that can be sanded later. Any dip,
however, will have to be filled with micro. When you have done your
best to carefully fit the shear web joint top and bottom then mix up

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 the micro-slurry and epoxy and join the elevator slot foam cores to
the canard.
.....Once the attachment has cured, then the fun can begin. Trim the
elevator slot foam cores back to the "Eventual Trim Line". Next, sand
down the "tails" so that you can achieve a minimum of 0.4" of glass-
to-glass bond with the inside lamination, while at the same time
fairing everything nicely into the canard contour forward of the
shear web. At the glass-to-glass bond area, you must sand away all
micro and epoxy and get down to the glass. Spend some time looking at
the surfaces getting the best alignment that you can. When everything
is ready, laminate 2 BID at 45 degrees to the canard shear web on the
elevator slot foam cores, being sure to achieve at least 0.4" of
glass-to glass bond, and lapping up onto the canard at 1 east 1".
Note that the sketch ca 11 s out dry-micro fill if required at the
top and bottom of the shear web joint. Trim the inboard and outboard
elevator slot foam cores at the marks previously made on the canard.
.....Your canard should now be looking more like a canard, and less
like a lump of foam and glass.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-07

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 OUTBOARD ELEVATOR PIVOT ASSEMBLY
..... These instructions cover only the assembly of the left outboard
elevator pivot, but the right outboard elevator pivot is a mirror
image, and may be accomplished at the same time.
.....First, review the MAIN WING chapter section on "Outboard aileron
Pivot Assembly". Except for the part number changes, you will be doing
exactly the same operations.
.....Locate a QCSM7 pivot about 0.25" inboard of the outboard end of
the elevator using 3 MSP43 cherry rivets spaced radially at least 0.4"
apart. It will be necessary to "tunnel" through the elevator skin and
elevator foam core in order to reach the CS16 elevator torque tube for
riveting. The holes made by the tunneling operation should be filled
after riveting with dry micro.
.....Find CS19, and insert a QCSM5 stud with the 2 AN970-4 washers, 1
AN960-4 washer, and 2 AN363-428 nuts, just as you did on the aileron
outboard 'pivot assembly. Remember, there must be a minimum of 0.6"
from the AN960-4 washer inboard to the end of the QCSM5 stud so that
the elevator must be moved inboard at least 1/4" before it "falls off"
the QCSM5 stud for disassembly. Finally, round the end of the QCSM5
stud slightly to assist in mounting the elevator.
.....When the elevator is mounted, CS19 will fit flush against the
canard shear web. At that time, the 'outboard elevator slot foam core
will have to be trimmed to allow that.

MIDSPAN ELEVATOR PIVOT ASSEMBLY

..... Read this section carefully before doing anything, and take the
time to visualize what the words are saying. Otherwise, you may find it
difficult to install or remove your elevators!
.....
These instructions will cover the left midspan elevator pivot assembly,
but the right midspan elevator pivot assembly is a mirror image.
.....Find a QCSM3 stud and a QCSM2 pivot. Screw the QCSM3 stud into the
QCSM2 pivot, retaining it with AN363-1032 locknut, making sure that the
assembly is tight. Next, round the end of the QCSM3 stud slightly, as
shown, to facilitate installation and removal of the elevator later.

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 .....Measure 30" outboard on the elevator from the inboard end and
place a mark. Using a router bit, route out a slot 1/8" wide for about
plus or minus 17 degree of elevator travel. (See sketch)
.....Next, insert the QCSM2 pivot assembly, complete with QCSM3 stud,
into CS16, the elevator torque tube, with the stud pointing outboard.
(See sketch) QCSM2 pivot assembly through the CS16 elevator torque tube
with a small diameter stick until it just reaches flush with the slot
that you routed out. Rivet the QCSM2 pivot assembly to CS16 using 3
MSP43 cherry rivets spaced radially at least 0.4" apart. Again, it will
be necessary to "tunnel" through the elevator skin and the elevator
foam core to reach the tube. Again, you will fill the holes with dry
micro.
.....The routed slot must be expanded so that the CS17 hinge can slide
off of the QCSM3 stud and out of the CS16 elevator torque tube while
remaining perpendicular to CS16. This is to allow assembly and
disassembly of the elevator. Probably, you will have to open the routed
slot up to about 0.6" wide. At the same time, verify that the CS17
hinge can rotate at least 17 degrees up and down to allow proper
elevator movement. If not, make the routed slot bigger, as necessary.
It is important, however, not to remove any more "meat" from the CS16
elevator torque tube than necessary, so work carefully. .
.....Now we come to the 2 CS18 inserts. These inserts are positioned
against the canard shear web on either side of the CS17 hinge, and
provide a local beef up to take the hinge loads. To deter mine exactly
which BL the CS18 inserts must go at, you will need to trial fit the
elevator in posit ion in the elevator slot foam core, making sure that
the inboard end of the elevator coincides with the inboard end of the
elevator slot foam core that you have previously trimmed to fit the
fuselage.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-08

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 ..... With the C517 hinge mounted on the elevator up against the end of
the QC5M2 pivot, and with the elevator in position in the elevator slot
foam core, you can mark on the elevator slot foam core where the 2 C518
inserts must go. Next, route out the foam in the elevator slot foam core
in preparation for later bonding of the C518 inserts in place. Any
excess foam removed can be filled in later with flox during assembly.
.....Now, let's carefully review how the elevator is removed from the
midspan elevator pivot. The elevator is moved inboard, resting on the
QC5M3 stud, at least!" until it falls off the QC5M3 stud. During this
movement, the C517 hinge remains where it was, since it was permanently
attached to the canard (between a sandwich of C518 inserts) during
assembly.
.....Do you understand? Good, read the above explanation again two times
until it is indelibly etched in your memory.
.....Now you are ready to do the same thing for the right elevator.
Remember that the QC5M2 pivot assembly, complete with QC5M3 stud, must
be pushed into the C516 elevator torque tube with the stud pointing
OUTBOARD. (A mirror image of what you have already done). Be very
careful in setting up the right madspan elevator pivot assembly, and
verify that it, too, will function as described in the paragraph above.
.....It may seem that we are spending too much time on this setup, but
it is the "voice of experience speaking".

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 IN5TALLATION OF THE ELEVATORS
..... The elevators are installed and rigged prior to the canard being
mated to the fuselage. As a result, after mating only C513 needs to be
hooked up for a functioning pitch control system.
.....The procedures detailed here are similar in scope to what you have
already accomplished in mounting the ailerons on the main wing, except
that the elevators have a center pivot on each side.
.....Begin by jigging the canard vertically, with the leading edge at
the table.
.....Take a piece of QC5Ml and make two 1.8" 1ength pieces to use as
elevator reducers. A saw cut and perhaps some light sanding will be
necessary to make them fit snugly and flush with the inboard ends of the
two elevators.
.....Find the phenolic bearings C515 (2) and C514 (1). Dull the phenolic
completely with sandpaper except inside the reamed 5/8" diameter holes.
Be sure that the other 1/2" diameter holes have been drill ed out. These
are non-critical on diameter, but must be there to assist bonding of the
phenolic to the structure. They are NOT lightening holes.
.....Find Q2C5A8. Make C520 from 0.625" 0.0. x 0.065" wall 4130 steel
tubing. The length of C520 should be about 5" longer than 1/2 the width
of the fuselage where the elevator matches up to the fuselage. The piece
is made long initially, and then trimmed back as needed.
.....The right and left elevators are nearly mirror images of one
another. Each elevator has an outboard hinge C519, a midspan hinge C517,
and a inboard hinge C515. Q2C5A8 slips into the elevator reducer at the
elevator end, and over a AN271-B8 (or M52071-B8) universal joint near
BLOO. On the right side, C520 slips into the elevator reducer at the
elevator end, and through C514 and then over the same AN271-B8 (or
M520271-B8) universal joint near BLOO. Clear, heh?
.....The following procedure was developed to help you get the elevators
mounted without binding, with the proper clearances, and with the
ability to get them off again:

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-09

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 1. Trim the inboard edges of the elevator slot foam
cores flush with the sides of the fuselage.
2. Slip CS15 over the outboard end of Q2C5A8. the
universal joint into the inboard end ofQ2C5A8. and
then the outboard end of the Q2C5A8 assembly into
the elevator reducer mounted in the inboard end of
the left elevator.
3. Slip C515 over the outboard end of e520. the eS14
over the inboard end of e520. then the universal
joint into the inboard end of e520. and then the
outboard end of the e520 assembly into the
elevator reducer mounted in the in board end of
the right elevator.
4. What follows is a very qualitative fitting
process. Using at least three people. dry fit
C519, C517. e515_ and e514 against the canard
shear web in the appropriate positions (C519
against outboard end of elevator slot foam core.
eS17 at the midspan slot) e515 against the inboard
end of the elevator slot foam core. and e514
against the shear web near BL1 Right), check for
binding. Working slowly.. correct any binding or
clearance problem (1/16" MIN elevator clearance
applies just like on the ailerons) by modifying
C519. e517. e515, and C514. Please. do one thing
at a time. The arm on Q2C5A8 should be at
approximately BLOO.
5. When the complete elevator assembly fits well. and
rotates freely. mix up some 5-MIN with flox and
temporarily mount CS19, CS15. and CS14. (DO NOT
mount the CS17's).
6. Remove all of the pieces except e519. e515, and
CS14. Carefully lay up the BID cloth that
permanently holds CS19, CS15, and CS14 in place.
These parts must be solidly mounted so that they
cannot break off while in service. Use the
"Aileron Installation" section of the MAIN WING
chapter as a guide to the laminations.
7. Once the laminations indicated in step 6 have
cured, you will want to install the e517's
permanently. Install the elevators on the inboard
and outboard pivots; remember to leave at least a
gap of 0.5" inboard for the elevator spacers. (If
you haven1t lost any inches anywhere up to this
point. those spacers will be 1.0" in length).
Install CS17 on QC5M3 against the face of QC5M2.
Make CS17 the meat of a sandwich with a pair of
C518's as the bread, and trial fit the sandwich
against the canard shear web dry through the slot
made previously. When satisfied with the fit. and
sure that the elevator clearance is a minimum of
1/16" top and bottom permanently mount CS17 and
the CS18's with wet flox. It is very important to

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PAGE 10-9

Q2 Plans - Chapter 10 - Page 10-10

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 not interfere with the elevator movement, or bond
the elevator to the shear web. If you previously
removed the top and bottom canard skin where the
slot was ground out, be sure to laminate 2 BID top
and bottom once the laminations have cured. . The
above procedures are used with both elevators.
8. Once the laminations and installation have cured,
you are ready to drill in the elevator assemblies.
Find your elevator rigging template! reassemble
every thing, and set the elevators at 0 degrees.
Also, verify that each elevator is pushed outboard
against CS19. Verify that both Q2CSA8 and CS20
overlap into the elevator reducers a minimum of
1.8", and that both are pushed up tight onto the
universal joint. Now drill in very carefully the
four bolts that fasten Q2CSA8, CS20, universal
joint, and CS16/ elevator reducer together. BE
CAREFUL! Don't let the holes elongate; use a small
drill and work up in size. Also, be absolutely
sure that each elevator is at the same angle (i.e.
no asymmetry) and that full elevator deflection is
available without any interference any where in
the system.
9. Finally, make the elevator spacers, which have a
nominal length of 1.0" each. The actual length
should be sized to allow the elevator to have a
lateral freeplay (i.e. inboard to outboard) of
about 0.05". Assemble each elevator, and again
check for binding, misalignment, or excessive
freeplay.

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 POST-CURING THE CANARD STRUCTURE
..... In order to minimize creep in the canard, the canard should be
post-cured prior to installing it on the aircraft.
.....Creep is the tendency for the epoxy to deform due to heat and load.
In the case of your aircraft, the heat could be obtained on a hot day
with the aircraft setting in the sun, and the load is always there when
the aircraft is resting on its 'landing gear'. The loading through this
means is both bending and torsional in nature.
.....Creep can be minimized by heating the structure to a higher
temperature than it will see while in service. If you own a multi-
million dollar corporation, you should use a very large oven with
accurate temperature control throughout; if you are like the rest of us,
you can obtain equal results by painting the canard black with primer
and setting it in the bright sun to effect the post-cure.
.....If you desire, you may want to finish the canard up to the primer
stage before post-curing it. (Note the surface waviness criteria in the
finishing section of the Composite Materials Education chapter).
However, if you desire to do all of the messy finishing work at one
time, you can elect to just shoot some black primer on the canard, and
clean it off later. It is important to remember that when you attach the
canard to the fuselage later, wherever the BID tapes that secure the
canard to the fuselage attach to the canard, the canard must be free of
any paint, micro, feather fill, etc.; i.e. just the pristine structure.
.....The reason you will want to use black is that it makes the job
easier by absorbing more heat, thus raising the temperature of the
structure quicker. . The technique you will use is quite simple. Expose

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 the top and bottom surfaces of the canard to the sun, changing the angle
of the canard periodically to heat the entire surface. Check the
temperature frequently by placing the palm of your hand on several
locations. If you can hold your hand on the surface for about 5 seconds
without screaming out in pain, the temperature is perfect. Permit the
canard to set at that temperature for about 10 minutes. DO NOT PERMIT
THE CANARD TO GET TOO HOT.
.....It is not necessary to post-cure any other structure on your
aircraft.

END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 10-10

Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-01

WHEEL PANT/TIRE/WHEEL/BRAKE ASSEMBLY

INTRODUCTION
..... In this chapter, you will make one left wheel pant and one right
wheel pant, complete with wheel, tire, and brake assemblies.
.....The wheel pants are composite structural shapes that must transfer
all landing gear loads into the canard. Therefore, they are made much
stronger than the ordinary cosmetic type wheel pants found on many
homebuilts. There is some carving required, but you would find it
straight forward.

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 BASIC ASSEMBLY
..... Begin by making two Wheel Pant cores (LGl) and four Wheel Pant
Covers (LG2). The procedures that follow cover assembling the left wheel
pant. Since the right wheel pant is a mirror image of the left wheel
pant, you will probably find it easy to assemble both wheel pants
simultaneously.
.....Join LGI to LG2 with micro-slurry. The template sketch for LGI
shows the outline of LG2; basically, LG2 covers up the hole in LGI. You
may need to use some weight to hold LG2 to LGI until they are cured.
.....Once the combination has cured, lay it face down on the table with
LG2 against the table. Laminate the plies shown in the sketch.

.....

Now, you are ready to flag the UNI stiffener over the future location
of the LG4 inserts. The stiffener location is shown on the LG2 template
drawing. 0 Begin with a piece of UNI cloth 14" x yu with the fiber
orientation along the 7" edge. Flag the piece 7 times along the yu edge
(i.e. every 2"). Flagging consists of the following procedure:

1. Fold the cloth over on itself.

2. Wet out the cloth.
3. Lightly run a new razor blade across the bubble at
the edge.
4. Stipple the cloth down.
5. Repeat steps '1-4 as many times as needed.
(7 times)

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 ..... While the layup is curing, take a second LG2 and layup two BID on
the inside face (i.e.) the face that will be inside the LGI cutout when
it is attached. Roughly trim the glass so that it doesn't extend beyond
the edges of LG2, but don't be concerned if you trim somewhat inside the
edges. Flag a UNI stiffener to this LG2 just like you did with the other
LG2, remembering that the stiffener is on the side of LG2 that will be
inside the LGl cutout when LG2 is joined to LGI.
.....While the second LG2 layup is still tacky, join the second LG2 to
LGI with micro. Now, layup two BID tapes on the inside to join the
LG2g1ass layup to the LGI glass, as shown. At this point, you should
have a sandwich, with one LGI as the core, one LG2 as the outboard face,
and one LG2 as the inboard face. Allow the assembly to cure.

..... Next, the two LG4 inserts must be bonded into position. Remove
white foam from the outside of each LG2 down to the inside glass layup
in the areas on the LG2 template drawings which denote the LG4 inserts
locations. Then use micro to bond in the LG4 inserts.
.....After these layups are cured, drill in the pilot holes for the axle
with a long 1/4" drill. To do this, with the wheel pant laying flat on
the table, drill through both faces, keeping the drill perpendicular to
the pant.

MOUNTING THE WHEEL PANT

..... The completed canard should be jigged upside down. Basically, each
wheel pant is jigged in place using lumber for bracing, then the toe-in
and camber is checked, which usually necessitates some adjustment to the

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 lumber bracing. When everything is jigged properly, 5-MIN blobs are used
to attach the pant to the canard and a piece of lumber is attached
between the LG4 insert and the canard so that the assembly will not
move. Begin by rigging the wheel pant in the approximate position. The
wheel pant slips into place against the canard shear web and canard
bottom skin. Since the canard surface is angling upward as fixed to the
jigging table, and since the vertical faces of the wheel pant should be
vertical, some beveling of the pant where it fits against the canard is
necessary. The bevel is approximately 1 to 10. Note that the LGI core is
sized to fit at BL93, so don't modify the inboard edge very much. Once
the assembly is trimmed, bracing is used to keep it firmly fixed. Sight
thru the axle holes, keeping the two holes in the wheel pant concentric
(like sighting thru the sights on a gun). Move the wheel pant until the
line of sight approximately intersects the other canard tip where the
axle holes on the wheel pant will be located. Bondo the lumber in place.

.....Next, repeat the operation with the other wheel pant except that
now you can actually sight on the opposing wheel pant axle holes.

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PAGE 11-1

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-02

..... The objective is to be able to sight through each wheel pant and
see the other wheel pant axle hole lined up in the "sight". The process
is iterative until you can confirm that a bullet fired along the
sightline through each wheel pant will go right thru the opposite wheel
pant axle holes. At this point you have 0 toe-in and 0 camber, which is
what you want. Some minor trimming of the wheel pant may be necessary so
that the wheel pant fits flush against the canard.
.....Remove the wheel pant and laminate 1 BID along the top of the wheel
pant where it will come into contact with the canard shear web or canard
lower skin upon assembly. Be sure that the match between the wheel pant
and canard is good prior to glassing, to avoid using considerable flox
to fill the voids. Peel Ply the lamination.
.....When the lamination is cured, mount the wheel pants with flox to
the canard, being sure to achieve good flox squeeze out. (First removing
the peel ply, of course.) Before the joining gets tacky, be sure to
recheck and then recheck again the alignment of the two wheel pants
through the axle holes. Now is your last chance to affect that
alignment. When satisfied, use lumber and 5-MIN to attach the wheel pant
to the canard while the flox is curing.
.....Next, turn the canard over and jig it right side up, being careful
not to alter the alignment of the wheel pants.
.....You are now ready for the fun part, contouring the wheel pant!
Several templates are provided to visualize what you want the finished
product to look like. The templates are provided to help, but use your
eyeballs to develop a pleasing shape. Some points to remember are as
follows:

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 1. LG4 should remain .250" thick at the axle hole.
2. A smaller pant will be lighter and cleaner
looking, so don't leave excess foam on the pant.
3. The top canard skin will be sanded back for 5"-8"
to provide a pleasing, curvaceous contour.

..... After the wheel pant is carved, you are ready to glass the wheel
pant. Layup two BID over the outside face of the canard. Lap up onto the
canard a minimum of 1.5" inboard of the contouring, and use a minimum of
1" overlap wherever else you overlap the cloth. After this layup has
cured, remove the lumber jigging from the inside face of the wheel pant,
roughup the inside face contouring if needed, and then glass two BID on
the inside face.
.....Also, another flagged UNI stiffener will have to be laid up on each
LG4, using the same technique as you did earlier.
.....Check the sketches carefully and verify that your construction
agrees; wheel pants falling off your aircraft are bad form.

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 PAGE 11-2

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-03

MOUNTING THE RUDDER PEDALS

..... The rudder pedals must be mounted to the canard prior to mounting
the canard to the fuselage.
.....The rudder pedals are not easily adjustable for different pilot
heights, (use different cushion thicknesses for that) and, therefore,
whoever will be piloting the aircraft most frequently should setup the
pedal geometry for his or her comfort.
.....Begin by roughly placing the canard into position on the fuselage.
Set in the cockpit and determine where the rudder pedals should be
placed for maximum comfort. They should angle slightly forward, and you
should move them fore and aft to represent the extremes of travel. Mark
the locations of BSI when you are sure of their locations. (See sketch.)
Be sure that the brake pedal and pulley/cable hardware will clear the
side of the fuselage, and that the entire rudder pedal/ brake pedal
assembly will not interfere with any of the. fuselage structure.
.....Assemble the rudder pedals (Q2CSA9) and the brake pedals (Q2BSW1)
as shown in the sketches. Note the AN960-816 washers and safety wire
used to position the brake pedal. The small tab on the upper part of
each Q2CSA9 should keep the brake pedal from falling backwards by
contacting the joggle in the brake pedal.
.....Each BSI pivot is attached to the canard with flox and 2 BID. This
is a two step procedure; first flox the two BSlis per side in place, and
use a 1/2" piece of tube to line them up, then remove the tube and apply
the 2 BID when the flox is cured. The BS2 plywood block must have its
center hole on the same axis as the two BS1's and must not be installed
until each rudder pedal is assembled to the BS1's permanently.
(Otherwise the rudder pedals cannot be installed.) The BS2 plywood block
is also attached to the canard with flox and 2 BID.

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PAGE 11-3

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-04

..... Next, study the sketches carefully to understand the routing and
function of the brake cable. Depressing the toe brake (Q2BSWl) pulls the
cable, which travels around the pulley attached to BS2 and through a
short piece of Nylaflow tubing to a second pulley cantilevered off the
shear web of the canard. From there it travels outboard through the
Nylaflow tubing buried in the elevator slot foam core.
.....BS3 is a plywood block bonded to the canard in order to cantilever
that second pulley. The plywood should be bonded to the canard with flox
and 2 BID.
.....Strive for straight line travel on all cable runs where practical
to avoid unnecessary friction and wear.

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 ..... On the canard shear web at each wheel pant, there is another
AN210-1A pulley to change the direction of the brake cable so that the
cable will have a straight pull on the brake arm.
.....Use a piece of 0.063" thick aluminum one inch square and drill a
hole in the center for an AN3 bolt, and then rivet a nut plate to the
aluminum so that the bolt can pass through the aluminum into the
nutplate. Assemble the pulley combination as shown. Next, trial fit the
assembly against the canard shear web, removing foam and the canard
shear web glass as necessary so that the cable will not be pulling off
at an angle. When satisfied, remove the pulley and bolt, protect the nut
plate hole with silicone, and mount the aluminum/nut plate assembly to
the shear web with flox. Use 2 BID with a minimum of 111 overlap onto
the canard shear web to secure the aluminum/nut plate combination to the
shear web. Once the glass has cured, open up the hole and assemble the

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 pulley combination again.
.....All pullies must have cable guards to prevent the cable form
slipping off the pulley and fouling the system. A sample sketch of a
pulley guard is included for your reference; they should fit as closely
as possible to the outside diameter of the pulley.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-05

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 INSTALLING THE WHEELS/TIRES/BRAKES
..... The Q2 uses 5" diameter wheels, internal expanding drum brakes,
and 400 x 5 tires standard. The wheel pant is large enough to
accommodate a 500 x 5 aircraft tire.
.....Begin by assembling the wheel halves and the brake drum using
the bolts and nuts provided. Next, mount the tires to the wheels and
inflate to about 20 psi. Check the pressure after the assembly has
set for several days and verify that there are no leaks.
.....The left and right wheel pant assemblies are mirror images of
one another. The instructions and sketches that follow cover only the
left wheel pant, but you will probably wish to save time and do both
the left and right together.
.....To provide clearance for the drum brake assembly, which is
located on the inboard side of the wheel pant, the tire is offset
slightly toward the out board edge of the wheel pant. .
.....The LG3 and LG7 spacers are made from 7/8" 0.0. x 0.120" wall
606IT6 Aluminum tubing. The sizing will be described shortly. Find
QBSM1 axle bolt (2) and the QBSM2 spacer (2). The LG8 spacer is made
from 5/8" 0.0. x 0.065" wall 606IT6 Aluminum tubing, so find that
material.
.....Open up the 1/4" diameter axle pilot holes in the wheel pant to
5/8" diameter, using a 5/8" spotface to avoid tearing the hole.
.....The LG8 spacer length is the width between the outside faces of
the whee1pant measured at the axle hole; measure carefully. Assemble
the QBSM2 spacer between the brake drum and the brake shoe. Note that
both the spacer and brake shoe fit down into the drum with the brake
arm pointing forward. Now, the LG7 and LG3 spacers can be made.
Measure the width of the wheel pant between the inside faces at the
axle h_e. Size the spacers so that there is about 0.02011 freeplay
from side to side after they are installed as shown. There should be
a minimum of 1/4" clearance between the tire and the inside wheel
pant face.
.....LG6 is a tool made from 5/811 0.0. x 0.065" wall 6061T6 Aluminum
tubing. It has slightly rounded ends, and its length should be
approximately 1/8" less than the width between the inside faces of
the wheel pant measured at the axle hole. By inserting LG6 through
the pieces (except LG8) to keep them in the proper position (sort of
like a shisk a bob), you can slide the assembly up into the proper
position inside the wheel pant. Next, slide and push LG8 from left to
right slowly, pushing LG6 out the other side of the wheel pant. When
LG8 is resting between the inboard faces of the wheel pant, center
the AN970-3 washers on the holes and insert the QBSM1 axle bolt. The
axle bolt must be tightened until it clamps up the LG7 and LG3
spacers against the bearings of the wheel. If LG8 is too long, it
will prevent this clamping up effect; if the LG7 and/or LG3 spacers
are too short, they won't clamp up either. Therefore, you will have
to do

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PAGE 11-5

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 11 - Page 11-06

some trial fitting to make things come out right. In the future,
whenever you want to remove the wheel, USE the LG6 piece, just
reversing the above procedure.
.....The AN310-4 castle nuts must be safetied, so where everything
fits properly, drill a hole in each end of QBSMI and run a cotter pin
through to prevent the nut_ from backing off.
.....The routing of the brake cable is as shown on the sketch. Note
that the cable passes through the cable guide hole on its way upwards
to the outboard pulley. The brake shoe may need to be "clocked" to
achieve that path. In order to assemble the ANI00-3 thimble and
sleeve at the brake arm end, it will be necessary to drop the
wheel/tire/brake assembly out of the wheel pant.
.....Finally, only after the brake cable is run entirely from the
brake shoe to the brake pedal in the cockpit and after the brake drum
has been clocked if necessary to allow the brake cable to pass
through the cable guide, then locate the anti-torque AN3-15A bolt, as
shown. You .must remove foam and place a 1" square plywood insert in
the inboard wheel pant LG2 for the bolt to travel through; foam will
not suffice. 2 BID over the plywood insert is used, in addition to
mounting it with micro. The QBSM3 spacer is used to fit through the
slot in the brake shoe and to tighten the AN3-15A bolt down on. Be
careful not to let the bolt head, or anything else, interfere with
the tire rotation; a puncture would ruin your whole day. The anti-
torque assembly is important; it is that which keeps the brake shoe
from turning. When you think that you have all of the pieces together
properly, spin the tire and actuate the brake several times. Check
for excessive wobble, interferences with the wheel pant, friction,
and proper brake action. Then congratulate yourself, because you have
the wheel pants mounted and the brakes workin'.

END OF CHAPTER

Q2 Plans - Chapter 12 - Page 12-01

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 MAIN WING AND CANARD MOUNTING

MOUNTING THE MAIN WING

..... The main wing is permanently attached to the fuselage with flox
and a series of BID tapes.
.....Begin by leveling the fuselage both longitudinally and laterally.
Use several pieces of scrap lumber and Bondo to firmly hold the fuselage
in position. It is preferable at this time to allow sufficient room for
the canard to slip up into position later. (See Mounting The Canard.)
.....Locate WL30 on each side of the fuselage between the seatback
bulkhead and the FS94 bulkhead. Refer to Page 8-2 for information
detailing the location of the split line; this will assist in locating
WL30.
.....Remove the top portion of the fuselage shell between the seatback
bulkhead and the FS94 bulkhead down to WL30. For convenience, allow 1"
between your forward cut line and the aft face of the seatback bulkhead.

.....If you have previously mounted the aileron system on the main wing,
you will notice that the inboard phenolic bearings and linkages
interfere with the FS94 bulkhead as you attempt to install and fit the
main wing onto the fuselage. It will, therefore, be necessary to remove
part of the FS94 bulkhead until the main wing is mounted by cutting a
slot in the bulkhead. Later, after the main wing has been attached
permanently, the slot can be filled in and the phenolic bearings
laminated to it.
.....Next, trial fit the main wing into position and begin trimming away
the fuselage sides (downward) until the main wing fits into position.
Check the lateral level of the main wing using a water level system
consisting of some clear plastic tubing and water colored with food dye.
Check that the centerline of the main wing is on BL00.

..... Small variations (0.1" max) in fit between the main wing and the
fuselage sides are acceptable and can be filled with flox. Expect this
fitting process to consume several hours of intermittent work. Don't
forget to verify the fit with the main wing leveled longitudinally using

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 the level board on it.
.....Before mixing up the flox, recheck the fuselage and main wing level
lines and blocks. It is very critical to your Q2's excellent flying
qualities to have the proper incidences angles.
.....Check the skew of the main wing by measuring the distance from each
wing tip to the base of the vertical fin. The two measurements should be
the same. If not, some shifting within the confines of the FS94/Seatback
bulkhead fit should be accomplished to make the main wing as skew free
as possible.
.....Liberal quantities of flox should be placed wherever the main wing
and fuselage will meet upon assembly. Verify good squeeze out of the
flox upon assembly. Recheck all level lines and alignment. Permit the
flox to cure prior to attaching the BID tapes shown. Two BID tapes are
used everywhere, top and bottom)with a minimum width of 3 inches.
.....Finally, the top section of the fuselage shell that was removed to
enable the mounting of the main wing should be trimmed to fit, and
bonded in place with liberal quantities of flox. Then BID tapes are
used, as shown, on the outside of the fuselage shell to attach the main
wing cover to the main wing and fuselage.
.....Also, any material removed to allow the aileron mechanism to clear
should be replaced. Remember, this assembly is critical and should be
accomplished with great care. Tie all major structure together with BID
tapes and flox.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 12 - Page 12-02

MOUNTING THE CANARD

..... After mounting the main wing, you should find the canard easy.
The canard fits forward against the aft face of the firewall with the
leading edge area fairing into the lower part of the firewall. The aft
section of the canard is allowed to end up wherever necessary, as long
as it is above the bottom fuselage line at the shear web. The part of
the lower forward fuselage shell that is removed to fit the canard, is
discarded.
.....Begin by removing part of the lower forward fuselage shell and
trial fitting the canard. Expect to consume several hours of cutting,
fitting and re-trimming before you have achieved a good fit. Check and
recheck skew, and the fuselage and canard level lines. Use the water
level system to check the lateral level of the canard. (It is suggested
that you use the axle holes as the reference.) Verify that the
centerline of the canard is at BLOO.
.....Be careful that you do not remove a part of your main fuel tank
while clearancing the canard! You should end up with about 1/2"
clearance between the aft edge of the phenolic bearings and the forward
face of the main fuel tank.
.....If the level board on the main wing is still installed, verify
that the main wing is level prior to mixing up the flox for the canard.

.....Attach the canard to the fuselage as shown in the illustrations.

Be sure that you provide sufficient flox for good squeeze out
everywhere. The flox should be allowed to cure prior to installing the
BID tapes inside and out. Recheck the level lines and skew before
leaving the canard alone to cure.
.....Later, you will construct fairings for the inboard elevators,
ailerons, and for the lower part of the canard, in order to make your
Q2 aerodynamically cleaner. For now, stand back and admire your Q2
setting on the landing gear; your over 50% completed at this point.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 12 - Page 12-03

INSTALLING THE FUSELAGE STIFFENERS

..... Two stiffeners, fabricated from the 3/8" thick white foam, are
placed on each side of the fuselage above the canard. These stiffeners
improve the stability of the fuselage sides during hard landings. The
sketches show the positioning of the stiffeners. Two BID are laminated
over each stiffener to attach it to the fuselage and canard.

PERMANENT ATTACHMENT OF THE FORWARD AND AFT FUSELAGE SHELL

..... If you have decided not to make your Q2 trailerable, you should
now complete the closeout of the fuselage by permanently attaching the
forward and aft fuselage shells at the fuselage cut line, or joint.
.....If, on the other hand, you intend for your Q2 to be trailerable,
you should skip ahead in these plans to Chapter 15 and complete that
work prior to mounting the vertical fin in Chapter 14.
.....The fuselage shells are permanently attached at the joint with flox
and BID tapes on both the outside and inside. Begin by jigging the two
shells together and checking for fit at the joint.
.....Then, since the core thickness of the forward shell is 3/8" and the

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 rear shell core is only 1/411 thick, bevel the forward shell to match
the aft core at the joint. Also, sand dull the inside skin glass within
2.5" of either side of the joint, in preparation for the inside joint
lamination later. Prepare some scrap lumber for use in holding the
jigged position. Mix up flox and spread it on both edges of the shells
where they will join. Place the two shells together, hold them in
position with the lumber and Bondo, and permit to cure.
.....Next, laminate the 3 BID tapes shown on the outside of the skin
after you have sanded dull the existing glass. Note that the three tapes
have the following widths: 5", 4", and 3" and that the orientation
should be at 45 degrees to the joint itself. Wherever it is necessary to
overlap BID in order to laminate around the entire circumference,
overlap the BID by a minimum of 1.5".
.....Once that lamination has cured, craw1 inside the fuselage and
perform the inside skin lamination as shown, wherever possible. The 4
BID tapes have the following widths: 5",4",3", and 2" with a 45 degree
orientation to the joint. The extra BID is to make up for the glass
strength lost when the foam was beveled.

END OF CHAPTER

Q2 Plans - Chapter 13 - Page 13-01

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 CANOPY ASSEMBLY AND MOUNTING

INTRODUCTION
..... In this chapter, you will install the canopy that you
previously mounted and cut out in Chapter 8. It is important to the
passengers' safety to have a canopy that is strong, rigid, and
securely fastened while in flight. Therefore, do not rush this
section.

FORWARD EDGE LAMINATION

..... Laminate 3 UNI across the front edge of the canopy, with the
orientation across the front of the canopy. This lamination of 3 inch
wide tapes will increase the stiffness and strength of the canopy at
the forward edge.

PROTECTING THE CANOPY PLEXIGLASS

..... The canopy was shipped to you with a protected coating applied
on either side. You should be careful during construction that you do
not remove this coating, exposing the canopy to scratches and
abrasion. Once the aircraft is completely finished and painted, the
coating may be peeled away in strips, exposing the canopy Plexiglas
itself. Whenever, you laminate onto the canopy surface, you will,
however, need to remove the coating where the bond will take place.
Protect the edge of canopy/lamination junction with grey tape. This
will assist in providing a trim mask for knife trimming.

CANOPY FRAME STIFFENERS

..... Three stiffeners will be fabricated. One each will be installed
on each side of the canopy frame longitudinally, and the third will
be installed transversely across the bottom of the aft canopy
bulkhead. At the lower aft left and right points of the canopy frame,
these three stiffeners join together.
.....It is recommended that the core materials for these stiffeners
be 1/4" thick plywood. An alternative is to use 1/4" thick white
foam, but this alternative would require several plywood inserts for
local beefup where bolts are inserted.
.....As installed, each stiffener should be approximately 1.3" wide.
Because the canopy frame sides are curved as they travel forward,
those two stiffeners should be made about 1.8" wide to allow for
fitting. The third stiffener, the one fitted to the aft canopy
bulkhead, can be made 1.3" wide.
.....To construct the stiffeners, cut three pieces of 1/4" plywood
with the following sizes: 1.8" x 30", 1.8" X 30", and 1.3" x 44". Set
them vertically on the jig table and hold them in place with a dab of
5-MIN on either end of each one. Round the top corners of the plywood
so that the glass cloth will flow smoothly around the corners.
Laminate 3 UNI with the orientation running lengthwise along the long
dimension. The excess cloth that overlaps onto the table can be
trimmed later.

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 ..... Once the laminations have cured, it is time to mount the
stiffeners to the canopy frame. Begin by setting the canopy on the
fuselage and checking the general fit of the canopy on the airframe.
There should not be any trimming required for a good fit.
.....The two stiffeners, one on each side, fit out board to the
outside skin line as shown. This will require removing a portion of
the canopy frame as indicated on the sketch. There should be an
approximately 0.1" gap between the bottom of each stiffener and the
top of the longeron, to allow the future insertion of a flexible seal
to minimize air leaks. Each stiffener runs from the aft edge of the
canopy forward as far as practical.

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 ..... To join each stiffener to the canopy frame, use a 2 BID wrap-
around lamination from the inside skin of the frame to the outside
skin of the frame, with an overlap onto the frame of a minimum of
0.7". Grey tape may be used as shown to provide a cleaner edge for
trimming later. Flox is used where the stiffener meets the frame.
.....The third stiffener is placed transversely at the aft canopy
bulkhead. Ideally, this third stiffener should rest on the top of
each side stiffener, and on the bottom of the aft canopy bulkhead. If
necessary, a small piece of foam can be used to accomplish this. This
third stiffener is likewise attached with flox and 2 BID tapes in a
wrap-around configuration.
.....When completed, these stiffeners will form a very rigid box
around the canopy frame to stiffen up the entire assembly
considerably, as we'll as provide hard mounting points for the
hinges, pins, latches, etc.

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 PAGE 13-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 13 - Page 13-02

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 CANOPY HINGE INSTALLATION
..... The canopy is hinged on the right side of the aircraft with one
12" length of MS20257P4 hinge. (Or alternative MS20001P4 hinge).
.....The accompanying drawings give the details of the attachment. Note
that recessing of the hinge into the longeron is necessary to provide
clearance.
.....Because the longeron line is curved, it is important to remember
that the hinge must be oriented to provide the best compromise for
opening and closing of the canopy. Some trimming of both the fuselage
outboard skin and canopy frame outboard skin may be necessary to provide
clearance for opening of the canopy.
.....The hinge is nominally located half way along the stiffener. If you
have used foam to make the stiffener core, you will need to make and
install some plywood inserts wherever the bolts are installed.
.....The alternative MS20001P4 hinge will provide a tighter fit if
required.

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 FORWARD CANOPY LIP
..... In order to provide a secure seal at the forward edge of the
canopy frame, a fiberglass lip is fabricated from 4 BID and bonded to
the inside of the upper forward fuselage shell as shown.
.....Since the forward edge of the canopy frame is curved, when viewed
from above, the lip will also be curved.
.....To construct the lip, place some gray tape around the canopy frame
cutout on the upper forward fuselage to protect the structure. Next,
laminate 4 BID around the cutout with a minimum width of 2". Multiple
pieces may be used to make the required curvature.
.....When the piece is cured, remove it and the grey tape, and bond it
to the inside fuselage skin, At least 0.6" must project aft from the
cutout to provide the lip. A 1 BID closeout ply is laminated to cover
the exposed foam edge of the shell lapping onto the lip, and knife
trimmed even with the outside skin of the shell.

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Q2 Plans – Chapter 13 – Page 13-03

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 CANOPY LATCH
.....
.....The canopy latch is installed on the left side of the cockpit
midway along the left stiffener.
.....Find C1 and C2. Make C3.
.....Install C1 on the longeron. Next, take C3, a batch of Bondo, and
climb into the cockpit. Close the canopy, and position C3 on the left
canopy stiffener to match the position of C1, as shown. Hold C3 in
position until the Bondo hardens, then gently open the canopy and
drill in C3 as shown. It may be necessary to recess C3 into the
canopy stiffener, depending on the location of C1.
.....Climb back inside the cockpit, close the canopy, and Bondo C2
into position so that the canopy is clamped down tight when the
AN525-10R10 screw is slipped into the hole in C2. Drill in C2 while
inside the cockpit.
.....The canopy latch is very important. With some foam sealing
material with adhesive backing in place around the canopy area on the
fuselage, the latch should be adjusted so that the handle must be
forced into the closed position. (Latch and handle rigged to preload
toward each other.) In this fashion, it is impossible to
inadvertently open the canopy by bumping against the handle. If you
omit the foam seal, the canopy can rattle and wear the engaging
surface of C1. The macrame bead is available from nearly any variety
store. The foam seal material recommended is MD Foam Tape of size
3/8" thick by 1/2" wide made by the Macklanburg-Duncaun company of
Oklahoma City, OK., available at most hardware stores.

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 13 - Page 13-04

CANOPY GUIDE PINS

..... To maintain the canopy in position, and to increase the
fuselage stiffness in flight, canopy guide pins are installed at both
the front of the canopy and the rear of the canopy.
.....Begin by cutting the heads and shanks (the threaded part) off of
two AN3-12A bolts. Next, round one end of each.
.....Drill a hole through the left canopy stiffener within three
inches of both the forward end and aft end of the left canopy
stiffener. Permanently mount the square end of the bolt into the
stiffener with flox.
.....When the flox has cured, mark the location on the left longeron
where each cutoff bolt contacts the longeron upon closing. Drill a
5/16" hole at each location, grease up the bolt and surrounding area
with Vaseline, fill the hole with flox, and close the canopy. Be very
careful that the flox squeezeout does not permanently close the
canopy!
.....When the flox has cured, open the canopy and clean up any rough
edges.

AFT CANOPY SEAL

..... The aft canopy seal can only be fabricated and installed after
the canopy/canopy frame assembly has been carefully fitted to the
fuselage, with the hinges, latches, and pins in position.
.....With the canopy in the closed position, place some grey tape
along the outside fuselage skin at the seatback bulkhead location.
This will protect the structure.
.....Next, laminate a 4 BID seal around the aft canopy only. This

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 lamination should extend aft along the fuselage shell a minimum of
0.7", and should extend forward along the top of the canopy to match
the inside lamination that attached the aft canopy bulkhead to the
canopy. Grey tape is used to protect the Plexiglas and to provide a
trim edge.
.....After cure, remove the grey tape, and trim the sides of the seal
as required to allow the canopy to open properly.

SAFETY LATCH
..... Failure to properly secure the canopy latch prior to takeoff
will allow the canopy to open in flight. The flight characteristics
of the Q2 with a partially open canopy have not been explored. A
safety latch is assembled to prevent this potentially lethal
situation from developing.
.....Make sure that you install this safety latch, even if you think
that "It won't happen to me".
.....This safety latch catches the canopy in case the pilot forgets
to latch the main canopy latch prior to takeoff. To open the canopy,
raise the canopy 2" and push in on the safety latch, thus releasing
the latch and allowing the canopy to fully open.
.....The illustration shows the construction procedures. This safety
latch is located forward of the main canopy latch, so as not to
interfere with normal operation of the main canopy latch.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 13-4

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-01

FUSELAGE DETAIL ASSEMBLY

WRAPPING THE TAILSPRING

..... The tailspring provided is a molded S-Glass roving tailspring with
extremely good bending strength along the length. Because of the
production method, however, the tailspring does not yet have sufficient
strength torsionally, to prevent torquing up in a tight taxi turn.
.....To provide this torsional strength you must wrap a piece of BID at
45 degrees to the length of the tailspring, around the tailspring until
you obtain 3 layers of the BID. Needless to say, you will prepare the
tailspring by sanding the surface. Pure epoxy is used for the
lamination.

MOUNTING THE VERTICAL FIN

.....
.....The vertical fin is mounted to the fuselage only after the rear
fuselage shells are bonded together.
.....The vertical fin sets down into the fuselage with the vertical fin
root end resting against the bottom of the fuselage. This necessitates
considerable trimming of the top fuselage to permit the vertical fin to
drop down through. Also, the nose of the vertical fin below the top
fuselage is trimmed back so that the vertical fin will rest flush
against the bulkhead. Trim slowly so as to avoid making a bigger hole
than necessary. The general arrangement drawing included here gives the
mounting arrangement. The vertical fin slot is located approximately 5"
forward of the tail of the fuselage, so that the nose of the vertical
fin can fit snugly against that bulkhead.
.....Use a plumb bob hanging from the trailing edge of the top of the
vertical fin, with the fuselage leveled laterally, to verify that the
vertical fin is positioned vertically. Your eyeball from a distance is
used for a second check.
.....When the vertical fin fits into the fuselage properly, you are then
ready to prepare for mounting the tailspring. The core foam on the
vertical fin is hollowed out as shown, so that the tailspring can slide
forward from the aft end of the fuselage. The aft fuselage may have to
be trimmed forward until the width is 0.75" MIN, which is needed for the
tailspring to slip through. The bottom fuselage can be slotted as shown
to insert the tailspring. Do not worry about removing excess foam as you
tunnel through the vertical fin core. It is necessary to have a minimum
of 0.8" of space in all directions around the tailspring in preparation
for mounting. Allow approximately 9" of tail spring length to protrude
aft of the end of the fuselage.
.....The vertical fin core foam is not dense enough to withstand the
tailspring loads. Therefore, when you are ready to insert the tailspring
permanently into position, you will mix up a substantial quantity of
flox to fill the hole first, so that when the tailspring is inserted,
generous squeeze-out will result. Remember, at least 0.8" of flox must
be around the tailspring to spread the loads. Note from the drawing that
the flox completely fills the fuselage aft of the vertical fin. Before
the flox has an opportunity to set up, verify that the tailspring will

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 cure with its length parallel to the aft top fuselage line, and that it
is not crooked laterally.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-02

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 TAILWHEEL INSTALLATION
..... Once the tailspring has been installed in the fuselage
permanently, then you are ready to install the tailwheel.
.....Locate the following parts: QTW3, QTW4, QTW5, QTWMl, and the
tailwheel. Insert the QTW4 spacer into the QTW3 weldment as shown. Trial
fit QTW5 to the QTW3 assembly with a AN3-2LA bolt. It may be necessary
to sand QTW3 in order to allow a small amount of vertical freeplay
between QTW3 and QTW5. Once all the parts fit together smoothly,
assemble as shown.
.....Next, mount the tailwheel to the QTW5 fork as shown, using the
QTWMI axle and AN3-24A bolt.
.....The next task is to mount the entire tailwheel assembly to the
tailspring. Start by leveling the fuselage laterally, and then trial fit
QTW3 onto the end of the tailspring. Trim the tailspring if necessary to
permit QTW3 to fit, or to obtain the nominal 7" length from the forward
edge of QTW3 to the fuselage. Drill in the single AN3-12A bolt holding
QTW3 to the tailspring after making sure that the vertical face of the
tailwheel is indeed vertical. (Otherwise the tailwheel will wear
unevenly). To mount the Tailwheel assembly permanently to the
tailspring, mix up some flox and obtain good squeeze out of the flox
upon assembly of QTW3 to the tailspring.

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 RUDDER INSTALLATION
..... The rudder hinge assemblies are very similar to those of the
ailerons, so review the section on mounting the ailerons before
proceeding further.
.....The upper rudder hinge consists of the CS22 plywood mount, which is
bonded to the vertical fin core, and the same hardware and fittings
called out in the Main Wing chapter section on 'Outboard Aileron Pivot
Assembly', so follow those directions.
.....The lower rudder hinge is detailed in the accompanying sketch. The
QCSMI material is used for a 1.0" length rudder reducer and a 0.5"
length for a rudder spacer. The rudder reducer is pushed into the CS21
rudder torque tube. CS23 is the lower rudder phenolic bearing. CS23 is
bonded to the vertical fin foam core with liberal quantities of flox
generating good squeeze out. Q2CSAI0 is the rudder bell crank, which is
attached to CS21 with a AN3-14A bolt.
.....Assembly is performed by trial and error fitting of the rudder,
complete with all pivots, to the vertical fin until a satisfactory fit
is obtained. The clearance on either side of the vertical fin slot
should not be less than 0.06". The rudder should be trimmed top and
bottom so that a minimum gap between the fuselage and rudder, and
between the rudder top and vertical fin exists. When everything is
ready, mix up flox and also some 5-MIN and jig the rudder into place and
permit it to cure. Stirring sticks and some scrap lumber can be used to
hold the rudder in position.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-03

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 RIGGING THE RUDDER/TAILWHEEL CABLE

..... The sketch on page 14-1 shows the cable layout to actuate the
tailwheel and rudder. Note that from the rudder pedals, the 3/32"
cable travels aft through 3/16" Nylaflow tubing fairleads at each
bulkhead, exits the fuselage about 10" forward of the tail of the
aircraft, and then goes directly to the tailwheel weldment, QTW5,
where it is attached to the outboard hole using a thimble and NICO
press sleeve attachment. The inboard holes on QTW5 are used to attach
cable (using the same type of attachment) that runs forward to
Q2CSA10, the rudder bell crank, where the cable is attached with
another thimble and NICO press sleeve arrangement. The left and right
sides are mirror images. The C-69 spring is used between the cables
traveling to the rudder, to provide tension on the cables at all
times.
.....Cable attachments should be accomplished with no weight on the
tailwheel, and with the rudder and tailwheel in the neutral position.
(Use the rudder rigging template.) It is recommended that the QTW5-
Q2CSA10 hookup be accomplished first. Those cables must be as tight
as practical. Then, hookup the rudder cables to the outboard holes of
QTW5. Since there will be a quick disconnect later at the fuselage
cut point, just cut enough cable to reach the fuselage cut point. The
stop on QTW5 may need to be modified by filing it back in order to
reach the limits of rudder travel indicated on the rudder rigging
template.

RIGGING THE RUDDER PEDAL CABLE

..... The 3/32" cable is attached to the rudder pedal using a cable
shackle, thimble and NICO press sleeve, as shown. You may wish to
wait until after the quick disconnect fittings are assembled at the
fuselage cut point, in order to better set up the angle of the rudder
pedals.

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 MAIN FUEL TANK INSTALLATION
..... Once installed, the main fuel tank also serves as a support for
the legs of the pilot and passenger. The geometry of the tank was,
therefore, laid out to provide not only fuel volume, but also
adequate support.
.....A fuel drain valve must first be installed in the bottom
fuselage at the approximate low point of the fuel as part of the
normal preflight checklist.
.....Begin by locating FS45 at BLOO. Draw a 2" diameter circle around
that point and contour a depression in the center of the circle that
is 111 square and results in a foam thickness of 1/4". A toothpick is
useful for gauging depth. Make a smooth transition around the area.
.....Bond in with Flox the 1" x 1" X 1/4" mild steel plate and then
laminate 2 BID over the entire depression overlapping a minimum of 1"
onto the inside bottom fuselage skin. Once that lamination has cured,
make a 'dome' from some aluminum screen door screen that covers about
a 2.5" diameter circle, and attach the dome to the bottom fuselage
over the depression with flox all around the perimeter.
.....From underneath the fuselage, tap a 1/8" NPT hole into the mild
steel plate for the fuel drain valve, which then may be inserted and
tightened.

..... Finally, find a piece of Versa tube Aluminum tubing of 1/4"

O.D. and 20" in length and locate it as shown. The tubing pierces the
aluminum screen and points forward, being affixed with liberal
quantities of flox at the junction with the screen. Be careful not to
flex the tubing unnecessarily to prevent fatigue of the tubing.

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 .....The fuel tank must be trimmed to fit your fuselage. Refer back
to the chapter on Basic Fuselage Assembly for a sketch showing the
fuel tank positioning. The leading edge of the fuel tank is nominally
at FS36.1; the trailing edge should be at about F558.1 in order to
provide a nominal 6 inches of clearance between the fuel tank and the
Seatback Bulkhead. You will find that the sides of the fuel tank need
to be trimmed back to allow the fuel tank to sit down against the
fuselage bottom. Verify that the elevator control rod C513 does not
interfere with the top of the main fuel tank as it runs forward to
the elevator by skipping ahead in this chapter. If it does, you must
trim down the height of the main fuel tank to clear by a minimum of
3/8", or laminate a slot into the fuel tank for this CS13 clearance.
.....Baffles are used to prevent excessive sloshing of the fuel
within the tank, as well as to increase the stiffness of the fuel
tank so that it may be stepped on during entry and exit from the
aircraft.
.....Three baffles are used; one spanwise baffle about 18" wide, and
two longitudinal baffles that extend from the landing edge of the
fuel tank to within 4 inches of the trailing edge of the fuel tank.
The sketches illustrate positioning and size. Note that openings are
left regularly along the baffles to allow fuel to move back and forth
slowly. Particularly note the opening at the top which is part of the
venting system. Those openings should be about 2 inches in length and
about 1" in height, and need not be accurately shaped.
.....The baffles are fitted using trial and error until they fit both
against the fuel tank and also against the fuselage bottom when the
tank is inserted into place. Each baffle should have 1 BID on each
side, and the 1/4" thick white foam is used for the core material.
Once each baffle is properly trimmed, it should be mounted
permanently to the fuel tank with micro and a BID tape on either side
with a minimum 1" lapping onto each surface. ,Upon installation of
the fuel tank permanently to the fuselage, these baffles will be
coated liberally with flox so that they bond to the fuselage bottom.

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 ..... The fuel gauge consists of a direct reading float type mounted
near the centerline of the aircraft. Before installing the gauge
permanently, you should make sure that it will not interfere with the
elevator control rod CS13 which runs from the control stick to
elevators.
.....A length of 1/4" wood dowel obtained from a hardware store is
bonded with epoxy into a carved urethane foam float nominally 1"
diameter by 1.25" high. This float assembly will float up and down
with the fuel level. It rides inside a clear PVC pipe tube that you
will calibrate with marks showing fuel quantity. Some points to
remember are that the wood dowel should extend about 1.5" above the
top of the main fuel tank, that the length of the clear PVC pipe is
governed by the travel of the wood dowel, and that the float assembly
should be fitted to the fuel tank prior to mounting the fuel tank in
the fuselage permanently.

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PAGE 14-4

Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-05

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 ..... In order to provide a leak proof seal around the main fuel tank
after installation, small stiffeners are placed along the fuselage
sides so that, when installed, the main fuel tank will set down on
these stiffeners, thus assuring good squeeze out of the flox and a
good seal. These stiffeners are nominally of 1/411 square cross
section, and made from the thin sheets of white foam. They are
positioned by dry fitting the fuel tank in place, tracing around the
main fuel tank on the fuselage side, and then lowering the traced
lines the thickness of the main fuel tank after removing the tank.
The stiffeners are installed with flox, and allowed to cure
completely prior to mounting the main fuel tank permanently. Do not
be concerned at the number of separate stiffeners required to cover
the tank perimeter.
.....To install the main fuel tank permanently, it will first be
necessary to notch the forward lower edge of the main fuel tank at
BLOO so that the fuel line tubing will exit the tank there. Next, mix
up both pure epoxy and flox. Paint pure epoxy liberally on all
exposed areas of the stiffeners, to prevent contamination of the fuel
later. Trough flox liberally on the top of the stiffeners, as well as
on the fuselage bottom where the forward and aft edges of the main
fuel tank will rest upon assembly. Next, trough flox around the edges
of the main fuel tank that will come into contact with either the
stiffeners or the fuselage.
.....Insert the tank in place, and verify that you have good squeeze
out of the flox everywhere to assure a good seal. Wipe off the excess
flox on the top side as you make a flox radius between the tank and
the fuselage. Laminate 2 BID tapes with a 111 minimum overlap to join
the man fuel tank to the fuselage. Liberally apply flox around the
exit of the fuel line to prevent leaks.

SEATBELT ATTACHMENTS
..... A very important safety feature of your Q2 is the individual
seatbelt/shoulder harness assembly provided for each occupant.

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 Previously, you have mounted the attachments for the shoulder harness in
the main wing. In this section, you will install the mounts for the
seatbelts, and, finally, install the seatbelts in your aircraft. Do all
of the procedures exactly like these plans state; this section is your
first line of defense in the event of a mishap.
.....The seatbelt mounts are installed in the fuselage between the aft
edge of the fuel tank and the forward edge of the seatback bulkhead.
There is one outboard seatbelt attachment on each side of the cockpit,
and a double seatbelt attachment of BLOO.
.....The outboard seatbelt attachment is straight forward and
illustrated herein. A piece of 1/4" plywood about 2.2" x 1.2" is sanded
to fit the fuselage contour and beveled for the lamination of 7 BID over
it; between the plywood and the fuselage skin use epoxy. The 0.7" MIN
overlap onto the fuselage is very important, as is making sure that the
glass does not turn any sharp corners. The two holes for the AN525-
416R14 screws may be drilled from the inside of the fuselage all the way
through to the outside; the holes for the screws can be filled with dry
micro later. The aluminum angle should be about 1.2511 in length, and
permit at least 3/811 from the center of each hole to the outside edge.
The angle should be installed permanently, and then the hole for the
AN4-5A bolt holding the seatbelt itself drilled afterwards, so that the
hardware does not interfere. Note that the seatbelt pulls off at about a
45 degree angle. You may wish to sit in the aircraft and pick the
optimum FS for the seatbelt fittings prior to bonding the plywood in
place. The other side is a mirror image of the one illustrated.

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PAGE 14-5

Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-06

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 ..... At BL00, a common attachment is used. The plywood should be about
2.4" x 1.5" and is beveled to form an A-frame arrangement, so that the
aluminum extrusion can again pull off at about 45 degrees. The 7 BID is
again laminated in place with the 0.75" MIN overlap onto the fuselage.
Next, in order to close out the front and rear parts of the 'tent',
carve some urethane for two 'plugs', one on either end; these are
installed after the extrusion is permanently mounted so that the AN525-
416R14 screws do not need to be accessed. The plywood was made long so
that even with the extrusion in place, there will still be room to
laminate 3 BID around the plugs up onto the previous 7 BID lamination
with a minimum overlap. Finally, install the seatbelts themselves. The
extrusion length for both inboard and outboard pieces is a nominal 1.3".
When finished, this BLOO mount should be closed in, rounded, and have
glass lapping onto the fuselage inside skin in the four directions.

..... Now is a good time to install the shoulder harness assemblies

permanently to their attachments. Since each occupant has a Y-harness
arrangement from one bolt, there will need to be two slots per side
placed in the seatback bulkhead to allow the actual harness to come
through into the cockpit. Sit in the cockpit to determine best where
these slots should be; they should be no larger than necessary, and
should have a glass-to-glass bond lamination around the slots.

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 COCKPIT CONSOLE ASSEMBLY
..... Now is a good time to install your center console and the two side
consoles in your fuselage. The accompanying sketches show the locations.

.....Lets begin with the center console, the centerline of which should
be on BLOO. To gain more hip room the sides may be angled toward BLOO as
they go down. The top center console piece is not installed until after
all of the control stick mounting and rigging has been accomplished, but
it can be used "dry" to help mount the center console vertical pieces.
Remember that the glassed side of those pieces is the side not visible
after assembly, i.e. the side nearest BL00. Two cutouts will be
necessary for the seatbelts to clear the pieces. Use flox along the
bottom of each piece to attach them to the fuselage, and laminate 1 BID
on the inside lapping onto the pieces and the fuselage a minimum of 1
inch. Do not glass the outside faces of the two center console vertical
pieces until after the top center console piece has been permanently
installed. The 'kink' is achieved with a saw cut into the foam (not
glass) and beveling the foam so that the piece can angle upward.

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PAGE 14-6

Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-07

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 ..... The side consoles can be completely assembled permanently at
this time. Again, remember that the previously glassed faces go on
the outboard and lower sides, so that they are not visible upon
assembly. Laminate 1 BID tape at the joints wherever you can reach,
and use flox at the joints also. Once each top and vertical piece has
been joined, round the common corner and laminate 2 BID around the
two faces, starting with a 1 inch minimum lapping onto the fuselage
side, and finishing with a 1 inch minimum lapping onto the fuselage
side main fuel tank, or Seatback Bulkhead, depending on FS location.
This will give each side console a lone piece' look and reduce
finishing weight later.
.....Both the side consoles and the center console should be
assembled so that each top piece is level when in place. This will be
useful later for leveling your aircraft for installation of the main
wing and canard, as well as for weight and balance.

TOP CENTER CONSOLE ASSEMBLY

..... Once the control stick assembly is in place, and the CS13 push-
pull rod to the elevators in place, you can permanently assemble the
top center console piece. Some trimming will be necessary to clear
the control stick and its associated hardware. The top piece is
mounted with flox.
.....Round the top corners and laminate 2 BID at 45 degrees to BLOO
around the top piece all the way down to the bottom fuselage, using
1" minimum lapping onto the fuselage bottom, Seatback Bulkhead, and
main fuel tank.
.....To summarize, at this point in the construction, the center and

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 side consoles are installed with 2 BID over the outside faces of each
console, and 1" minimum lapping onto the rest of the fuselage
structure. The consoles are now strong enough to put weight on.

INSTRUMENT PANEL INSTALLATION

..... It is suggested that the Instrument Panel not be mounted in the
fuselage permanently until all cutouts for instruments, radios, and
equipment have been made.
.....However, at this time, you may elect to make the small sub-
panels that extend from the bottom of the instrument panel to the top
of each side console and the center console. The width should be the
same as the width of the console. For material, you may use the 1/8"
plywood, 0.063" aluminum, or even 1/4" thick white foam with 1 BID on
each side.
.....These sub-panels are useful for switches, gauge5, and as mounts
for controls.

Fuel Drain Valve installation

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 Side view of baffle installation Lower

Bottom view, of baffle installation

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PAGE 14-7

Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-08

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 CONTROL STICK INSTALLATION
..... Install the control stick only after the fuselage has been
assembled and the fuel tank, center console, and side consoles have been
installed.
.....The control stick is installed on the center console so that it may
be actuated by either the pilot's right hand, or by the passenger's left
hand.
.....In order to make your Q2 have that "custom fitted" appearance, sit
in the cockpit in a comfortable posit¬ ion that allows you to both see
out of the cockpit and reach the rudder pedals. Rest your right hand on
the center console and estimate where the control stick should be placed
fore and aft to .be most comfortable; mark that point somehow for future
reference.
.....Next, assemble QCSA1 to QCSA2. It is important that the bolt
tighten down on the spacer, not QCSA1, to allow the stick to pivot
freely.
.....Find the QCS3 spacer material and cut it into two pieces. Also,
find the three phenolic bearings CS1 and CS4 (2).
.....Study the sketches carefully. CS2 is the longitudinal aileron
torque tube, which is made out of 3/4" 0.D. by 0.035" wall 202413
Aluminum tubing. It needs to be approximately 44" long, but, as you can
see, the exact length will be determined on installation, so make it
long. CS2 translates the rotary motion of the control stick (for roll
control) back to QCSA3, the aileron bell crank, from whence the two
vertical push pull tubes CS5 and CS12 actuate the two Q2CSA41s which
move the ailerons.
.....From your previous determination of the proper control stick
location, you can decide how much to trim back the center console so
that the CS1 bearing can be attached with flox and 2 Blp at the forward
edge of the center console.

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 CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 14-8

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-09

..... Once that lamination has cured, trial fit the control stick, the
QCS3 spacer, and the CS2 longitudinal aileron torque tube together so
that you can locate the CS4 bearings back at the FS94 bulkhead. Be
careful to avoid binding. The CS4 bearings should be located on BLOO at
about WL14.5. Note that 2 BID and flox are used to attach each of the
CS4 bearings to the bulkhead.
.....Once those laminations have cured, you can assemble the control
system as shown. Remember, the stick must be smooth and free in the
pitch and roll directions. Also, the fore and aft travel of QCSA2 must
not exceed 0.03", as shown. .
.....Work slowly and carefully, being sure not to elongate the holes you
are drilling for the various AN3 bolts to connect everything together.
Keep checking to make sure the control system remains free and smooth.
There is little worse than a fine handling basic aircraft with a very
stiff control system.
.....The AN3-12A bolt to connect CS2 to QCSA2 will require a hole
drilled in the console. This hole can be left open for future access, or
closed back up again. Please note that the control stick with neutral
aileron is canted slightly toward the pilot for better stick/hand
geometry.
.....CS5, CS12, and CS13 are made from 1/2" O.D. x 0.035" wall 2024T3
Aluminum tubing. The proper lengths will have to be determined upon
installation. Don't forget the length taken up by the rod ends and
AN490HT8 adjustable threaded rod ends. Each push-pull tube system has
one of the adjustable rod ends to allow for small errors in properly
sizing the push-pull tubes for length. You must have at least 2 threads
of the adjustable threaded rod ends screwed into the rod ends to be
safe. It is recommended that you set up your systems so that the
adjustable rod ends are at mid travel, to allow for future adjustment,
particularly with the ailerons.
.....Use your aileron rigging template and your elevator rigging
template to assure that you obtain the proper amount of travel in pitch
and roll. Using wood bonded in place, make control limit stops both
between QCSA3 and the fuselage bottom, between Q2CSA8 and the canard
shear web, and between QCSA1 and QCSA2 to limit surface travel to the
proper limits. DO NOT HURRY THIS SECTION it is too important an area to
make mistakes in.
.....The stick grip is carved out of Balsa wood and attached to QCSA1
with epoxy., Once your aileron and elevator control systems are
functioning, climb into the cockpit and spend 5 minutes playing fighter
pilot. Then get back to work, or you'll never finish your Q2.

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 PAGE 14-9

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 14 - Page 14-10

INSTALLING THE PITCH TRIM SYSTEM

..... The pitch trim system is a simple looking double spring system
mounted in the center console forward of the control stick. It must
be built exactly as per plans if you are to enjoy the same fine
handling qualities as the prototype Q2. In addition to providing
pitch trim capabilities, the system also serves to regulate the stick
force per g of the control system in pitch.
.....The illustrations are straightforward. The trim wheel is carved
from plywood, and a dowel is bonded to it to allow the AN3-11A bolt
to attach the trim wheel to the 0.375" O.D. x 0.049" wall 4130 Steel
Tubing. A AN931-6-10 grommet is bonded to one of the TRl phenolic
bearings (both of which are bonded to the vertical side pieces of the
center console) in order to provide friction in the system. This is
very important. Be sure to verify clearance between the pitch trim
system and the CS13 rod and control stick.
.....A hole is drilled-through the tubing to allow the 1/8" diameter
nylon rope to be knotted twice for retention. Be careful to avoid
kinks, and pre-wind the rope at least one turn around the tubing to
avoid jerkiness in the pitch authority. Note that the #1 and #2
spring ropes wind in opposite directions on the tubing so that
rolling the trim wheel forward yields a nose down trim direction.
.....The rope should be replaced every 1 year/100 hours. See the
"Initial Flight Testing of Your Q2" guide for information on altering
trim rates and forces.

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 PAGE 14-10

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 15 - Page 15-01

MAKING YOUR Q2 TRAILERABLE

INTRODUCTION
..... In this chapter, you will make your Q2 trailerable and at the same
time join the forward and aft fuselage shells together. As stated in
Chapter 12, this task should be accomplished prior to mounting the
vertical fin in Chapter 14. Also, Chapter 12 contains information on
joining the forward and aft fuselage shells together permanently if you
do not desire to make your Q2 trailerable.

EXTERIOR LAMINATION
..... Begin by jigging the two shells together and checking for a good
fit. Some sanding may be required for a flush fit.
.....Next, sand the outside skin for 3” on either side of the joint in
preparation for the lamination.
.....Laminate 2 BID as shown around the area next to the joint. The
first ply is 3” wide and the second ply is 1.5” in width. The lamination
should be oriented 45 degrees to the joint line, and any overlapping
pieces of cloth should have a 1.5” Minimum overlap. Knife trim flush
with the joint.

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 INSIDE LAMINATION
..... Then mark the 10 locations for the fasteners. Remove the inside
shell skin and core foam as shown at the 10 locations. The taper shown
is to allow the next laminations to flow smoothly around the corners.
Each location will have an area 1” x 211 on each shell (a total of 2” x
2”) sanded down to the outside shell skin, as shown. Note from the
sketches that only the area around each fastener location is affected.
If the FS94 bulkhead interferes with the lower 3 locations, slot the
FS94 bulkhead as needed, and then replace the materials.

..... A pad of BID is laminated at each location and on each shell. A

total of 9 BID approximately 1” x 2” are used. An additional 3 BID
overlapping 1" minimum onto the inside shell skin are laminated to tie
everything together. It is important to taper all laminations carefully
to avoid joints, bumps, joggles, etc. Also, these laminations are
oriented 45 degrees to the joint line.

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 PAGE 15-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 15 - Page 15-02

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 FASTENER INSTALLATION

..... Make 10 of FC1 and 2 of FC2 using the full size patterns provided.
Attach the 10 FC11s to the forward fuselage at the 10 locations using
AN525-10R10 screws. (2 per fastener).
.....Jig the rear fuselage shell into position flush against the forward
fuselage shell using a few dabs of Bondo. By shining a light inside the
fuselage at each fastener location in order to see each FC1, drill in
the #12 holes (10 locations) for the K1000-3 nutplates. Mount the
nutplates to the FC1 fasteners with AN426AD-3-5 rivets, countersinking
them flush from the side of FC1 next to the pads.
.....Install the AN525-10R10 screws (10 locations) to complete the
assembly. That is all there is to it.

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 RUDDER CABLE DISCONNECTS

..... In order to complete making your Q2 trailerable, it is necessary

to make quick disconnects for the two rudder cables running aft from the
rudder pedals to the tailwheel. A simple method is shown here. To
disconnect the cables, remove one of the AN3-5A bolts from each side.
.....In practice, to remove the rear fuselage, remove the 10 screws in
the aft fuselage shell. Next, pull the forward and aft fuselage shells
apart using the slack due to the rudder pedals so that you can remove
the AN3-5A bolts indicated above.
.....As a final note, if your Q2 has any antennas located in the aft
fuselage, they too will need to have quick disconnect fittings.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 15-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-01

ENGINE INSTALLATION

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 ENGINE MOUNT INSTALLATION
.....Make 4 EM2 backup plates. A full size drawing is included.
.....Find the 4 Q2EM1 engine mount weldments. Use a AN6 bolt to stack
each Q2EM1 to one EM2. Next, drill in 4 0.190” diameter holes in each
Q2EM1/EM2 combination in the corners.
.....Using the sketch entitled 'Engine Mount Holes', locate the four
hole locations on the firewall and drill in 0.375” diameter pilot
holes.

..... Next, drill in the engine mounts on the firewall by taking each
Q2EM1 and using an AN6 bolt to stack the Q2EM1 to the firewall, and
then drilling the 4 0.19011 diameter holes per Q2EM1 through the
firewall. Temporarily mount the EM2 backup plate as shown using some
AN3 bolts so that the engine may be temporarily mounted on the
firewall.

PRELIMINARY ENGINE MOUNTING

..... The purpose of this section is only to establish the size of
the cutout in the firewall to clear the magneto and starter
assemblies. Skip ahead to the section on “Magneto/Starter Box” to
understand what the final shape and size must look like. Then, open
up a hole in the firewall just large enough to clear everything.
During the next section, you will make the final hole. Once the hole
has been sized, remove the engine.

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 MAGNETO/STARTER BOX
..... On the Q2, the starter and magneto section of the engine
projects aft of the firewall into a plywood box. This box is 9 sided
and constructed from 1/8” thick plywood. It has the inside dimensions
shown. These dimensions are rather critical, so follow them closely.
Use a few dabs of 5-MIN to hold the 'jigsaw pieces' together and
laminate 1 BID on both the inside and outside of the box.
.....Enlarge the previous cutout in the firewall until the box will
just fit through it. Attach the box permanently using 2 BID tapes on
both sides of the firewall. Verify that the magneto/starter
accessories will fit within the envelope of the box.

FIREWALL PROTECTION

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 ..... Prior to mounting the engine permanently to the airframe, it is
necessary to shield the firewall with fiberfrax and aluminum sheet.
.....One layer of fiberfrax must shield all exposed plywood,
including the inside of the magneto/starter box. To protect the
fiberfrax from abrasion due to normal wear and tear, a thin sheet of
aluminum is fastened over the fiberfrax. However, the aluminum sheet
does not need to be placed over the fiberfrax protecting the
magneto/starter box; you may choose to use 2 layers of fiberfrax
wherever a sheet of aluminum is not used.
.....The fiberfrax may be held in position with epoxy. It is fragile,
so be careful not to destroy it in handling. To attach the aluminum
to the firewall, use a few BSP46 rivets located not closer than 2" to
the outboard edge of the firewall. (The cowling flanges will be
mounted there later.)

PAGE 16-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-02

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 MOUNTING THE ENGINE
..... A typical engine mount assembly is shown in the sketches. Mount
the engine permanently.

MOUNTING THE PROPELLER

..... The propeller is delivered to the builder with the mounting holes
pre9rilled.
.....Make EM3 from a piece of 0.25" thick 606IT6 Aluminum. A full size
pattern is provided.. Use the predrilled propeller to drill the six bolt
holes in the EM3.
.....The propeller is mounted with 6 AN6-37A bolts. Note that the
spinner is not shown in the illustrations because complete mounting
instructions are included with the spinner itself.

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 PAGE 16-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-03

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 COWLING FLANGE CONSTRUCTION
..... In this section, you will make the flange that attaches the
cowling to the firewall. This flange will fit around the entire
circumference of the firewall.
.....First, use masonite, scrap plywood, or particle board to make an
accurate template of the firewall. This template will allow you to
form an accurate flange that will produce an excellent fit on the
cowling.
.....Bondo the cowling to the template at the outside edge, so that
the cowling is draped like it will be when mounted on the firewall.
It is necessary to do only one-half of the cowling at a time.
.....Next, using grey tape, protect two inches of the inside cowling
skin and 2" of the template inside surface, as shown. Laminate a 3
BID flange around the inside joint, overlapping 1 inch onto the
inside cowling skin and the inside template surface. Allow to cure
thoroughly to prevent future warpage.
.....Repeat the process with the other half of the cowling.
.....Remove the flanges from this simple "mold" and clean off the
grey tape from the cowling.

TRIMMING THE COWLING

..... The cowling is shipped to you preformed and rough trimmed to

size. Final trimming can only be accomplished with the engine mounted

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 on the airframe and the propeller spinner available for fitting. Do
not proceed further until that has been accomplished.
.....Previously, you fabricated two cowling mounting flanges, one for
the top cowling half and one for the bottom cowling half. Locate
these two flanges.
.....It will be necessary to cut a hole in the nose of the cowling
for the crankshaft to pass through, The hole should clear the
crankshaft by only 1/4" to minimize air leakage.
.....The fitting of the cowling is a trial and error operation. By
fitting the spinner to the crankshaft flange, you can determine the
necessary cowling length to allow only a 1/16" gap between cowling
and spinner. Obviously, the cowling is trimmed as necessary on the
aft face. Once the length has been arrived at, it is necessary to
mount the cowling mounting flanges using BSP46 rivets on about a 3.5"
spacing. The flanges are located so that the cowling will fit flush
with the fuselage after mounting. The rivets holding the flanges also
serve to mount the fiberfrax and aluminum sheet to the firewall.
.....Some trimming of the junction of the two cowling halves may be
necessary to achieve a best fit.

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 PAGE 16-3

Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-04

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 COWLING AIR INLETS

..... The cowling air inlets can now be cut into the cowling. They
are nominally each 3.5" x 6.5" in size, with a 3/8" radius (using
Bondo) around the lip. A sketch is included for reference.

COWL FLAP CONSTRUCTION

..... In order to improve the efficiency of your Q2, we have utilized

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 a simple cowl flap.
.....Using a felt tipped marker, mark on the inside bottom cowling
the 12" x 8.25" outline of the cowl flap. Trim 1.5" forward of the
aft edge to remove the crosshatched area on the illustration.
.....When the cowl flap is opened, it is necessary to have both sides
closed off, like a dustpan. (See Section A-A). Flat laminated
fiberglass (4 plies) is trimmed to fit the bottom cowl curvature and
bonded to either side of the cowl flap with 2 BID. Allow room for the
cowl flap to open up to 3.0" when making these side pieces.
.....Carefully cut out the cowl flap from the lower cowling. Smooth
up all rough edges.
.....A short piece of the MS20257P4 hinge is used to hinge the cowl
flap. It is located with 8 BSP42 rivets. To seal the remaining gap at
the leading edge of the cowl flap, rivet asbestos along the width of
the cowl flap with more BSP42 rivets, to form a secondary hinge and a
primary air seal. The asbestos and the hinge should be located on the
inside of the lower cowling.

MOUNTING THE COWLING

..... The cowling is mounted permanently using K-I000-3 nutplates and

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 AN507 1032-RI0 screws using an approximately 4" spacing. The
nutplates are secured using AN426-3-5 rivets. Take time to accurately
mount the cowling halves and you will be rewarded with an excellent
fit.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-05

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 CABLE GUIDES

..... Every push-pull cable except the carb heat control uses a cable
guide to provide positive control of cable movement. Make up three cable
guides as shown. The mounting bolt hole should be drilled upon assembly
later.
.....These cable guides function by sizing the hole that the cable
housing passes through such that when the AN3-14A bolts are tightened,
pressure will be exerted upon the cable housing, preventing slippage.
Care must be exercised not to put excessive pressure on the housing,
which might damage the cable.
.....Throttle cable: rivet a piece of the 3/4" x 3/4" X 1/16" aluminum
angle to the oil cooler mount, as shown, using BSP42 rivets. Don't rivet
through the oil cooler! Then, attach the cable guide and install the
throttle cable. A sketch is included to assist you in hooking up the
throttle cable to the throttle body arm.
.....Cowl Flap cable: bolt the cable guide to the firewall such that it
can assist the cowl flap actuation. A sketch is included showing the arm
on the cowl flap and attachment of the cable.
.....Mixture control cable: again bolt the cable guide to the firewall
so that the mixture control can be actuated.
.....Carb heat: this control is potted into the firewall with silicone
or 5-MIN and attached to the carb heat control arm.

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 PAGE 16-5

Q2 Plans - Chapter 16 - Page 16-06

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 ENGINE BAFFLING

..... The purpose of the engine baffling is to provide adequate

airflow for cooling to all critical areas of the engine and
accessories. Air enters through the cowling air inlets located on
either side of the spinner. A vertical baffle located in front of the
forward engine cylinders forces the incoming air to travel upward
across the cylinders and then down through the fins, exiting the
bottom of the cowling through the variable opening cowl flap. Another
vertical baffle located just aft of the rear cylinders assists in
forcing the air down through the cylinder fins. Likewise, baffling
between the cylinders and the sides of the cowling performs the same
function. An opening in the forward vertical baffle allows airflow
into the oil cooler. Once having passed through the oil cooler, this
air mixes with the spent cylinder fin air to exit through the cowl
flap.
.....Aluminum with an 0.032" thickness is the primary baffle
material. Approximate full size patterns are provided. However, there
is no easy way to fit baffling around the complex shape of the
engine. Areas of leakage must be closed off with aluminum in the case
of large holes, and silicone in the case of small leaks. The black
rubber asbestos is used between the aluminum and the cowling to
provide a close fit when the cowling is installed. Pop rivets (BSP42)
are used to join the pieces of baffling and asbestos together. Small
angles can be bent up from the 0.03211 thick aluminum to attach the
baffles to bolts on the engine painted red. In this manner, the
baffling will be removable.
.....Baffling can easily consume 10 man hours of work, so don't
hurry. Inadequate cooling is a major factor in many homebuilt
aircraft engine problems.

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 PAGE 16-5

Q2 Plans - Chapter 17 - Page 17-01

FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

INTRODUCTION
..... The Q2 fuel system consists of a main fuel tank that forms part
of the seat, and a fuel header tank positioned above the passengers'
legs. The carburetor receives fuel by gravity feed from the header
tank. The header tank is filled from the main fuel tank by an
electric fuel pump, with a manual fuel pump as a backup. An overfill
line in the header tank continually re-circulates the excess fuel
pumped by the fuel pump back to the main fuel tank. Each tank has a
separate fuel gauge. In the event of a complete fuel pump failure, a

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 full header tank is sufficient for over 225 statute miles at economy
cruise. The main fuel tank is filled from a fuel cap located on the
right side of the fuselage just ahead of the instrument panel. The
header tank can only be filled using the fuel pump.

FUEL FILLER SYSTEM

..... Provided with your Q2 kit is a small storage bottle. By cutting
the ,neck from this bottle, the upper part can be used as the fuel
cap. The storage bottle top is compatible with fiberglass/epoxy
laminates. As an option, the builder might consider using a
conventional aluminum fuel cap, but the mounting will be more
difficult.
.....Once the top of the bottle has been cut off, trundle down to
your nearest plumbing supply place and find a piece of PVC pipe of
approximately the same diameter. Then, trundle back home and laminate
the storage bottle neck to the PVC pipe with 2 BID.. Be sure to sand
both surfaces prior to the lamination.
.....Take a magic marker and mark the location on the outside
fuselage skin where the fuel filler door must go. Carefully, cut out
a door and save it for later. Next, make ,a recess for the fuel cap
from 1/4" white foam and fiberglass/epoxy.
.....As shown in the sketches and pictures, the PVC pipe is bonded
into position with flox. The recess prevents spilled fuel from
entering the cockpit.
.....To hinge the fuel cap door, you could use a small piece of hinge
and bond it in place. However, because of the fuselage shape, this
may not be satisfactory. An alternative is to make a small pin type
hinge. Find a small diameter (about 1/16" diameter) steel rod. Grease
it with Vaseline to prevent adhesion by the epoxy, and lay it flat
against the upper inside portion of the fuel cap door. Laminate 3 BID
over it. When cured, the pin will still be able to rotate, but will
be restrained by the cured laminate. Finally, fit the door carefully
and bond the ends of the pin to the fuselage on either side of the
fuel cap door cutout. Presto, a hinged fuel cap door.
.....Finally, drill a 1/16" diameter hole in the top of the fuel
filler cap. This will serve as the main tank vent.

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 HEADER TANK CONSTRUCTION
..... Previously, in Chapter 14, you have installed the main fuel
tank permanently in the fuselage, along with the main fuel tank fuel
gauge.
.....The important fuel header tank dimensions are shown in the
accompanying drawings. This fuel header tank is installed against the
upper fuselage inside skin approximately 5 inches aft of the
firewall. Sufficient room must be left so that the pilot's and
passenger's feet will clear the header tank.
.....The large sump is a simple rectangular box. The upper portion of
the header tank is curved to fit within the fuselage. This section
must be custom fitted to each individual aircraft. Suggested heights
for the front and rear pieces are provided as a guide. The length of
12 inches should provide sufficient clearance for the instrument
panel radios and instruments. However, this header tank should be
adapted to your particular aircraft, verifying that both the pilot
and passenger can be comfortably seated.
.....All pieces for the header tank should be cut from the 1/4" thick

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 white foam. One BID on either side of the foam is used when
assembling the header tank. The laminations that will 'see' gasoline,
should be made slightly wet to minimize leakage.

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Q2 Plans – Chapter 17 – Page 17-02

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 HEADER TANK PLUMBING
..... Prior to permanent installation inside the fuselage, the
plumbing for the header tank should be installed. The accompanying
drawing shows the location for all header tank plumbing. The fuel
feed to the engine should be patterned after the main fuel tank feed
shown on Page 14-3, including the screen and flox, but omitting the
drain valve. Both the feed line from the main fuel tank and the feed
line from the engine should be made from 1/4" 0.0. Aluminum tubing.
Allow the tubing to extend out from the header tank about 6 inches.
Use liberal amounts of flox to seal the exit points.
.....The fuel overflow return tube is made from 5/8" 0.0. Aluminum
tubing. It should extend to near the very top of the aft part of the
header tank, in order to maximize the fuel capacity. Permit it to
extend about 6 inches below the header tank, and seal the exit point
with flox.
.....

The routing shown for the plumbing is nominal, but will avoid
interference.

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 PAGE 17-2

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 17 - Page 17-03

HEADER TANK INSTALLATION

..... It is much easier to install the header tank prior to mounting

the canard to the fuselage.
.....Install the header tank using 2 BID and flox where it meets the
inside fuselage skin.
.....As a reminder, prior to permanently mounting the fuel header
tank, make sure that it will not interfere with instruments, feet,
rudder pedals, engine installation, etc. In order to maximize the
fuel quantity_ it has been made a tight fit in the forward fuselage.

HEADER TANK FUEL GAUGE

..... It is necessary for the fuel header tank to have a fuel gauge
to detect any failure of the fuel transfer system that would result
in a reduced level of the header tank.
.....A very simple arrangement of clear plastic tubing is used to
create a sight fuel gauge. It is floxed in place at the top and
bottom of the fuel header tank, and then run aft through the
instrument panel into the cockpit where it is turned vertically as
shown.
.....Later, calibrate the gauge with the fuselage leveled with
respect to WL15 by adding fuel in one gallon increments and marking
the clear plastic tube. A similar calibration is performed on the
main fuel tank gauge.
.....It is important to note that the gauge will only be accurate
while in straight and level flight. Particularly in the case of the
fuel header tank gauge small changes in aircraft attitude will make
large changes in the indication of fuel quantity. The fuel header
tank gauge should be used only to verify that the fuel header tank is
maintaining a full level in straight and level flight.
.....Also note that the fuel header tank gauge cannot be installed

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 until after the instrument panel has been installed.

FUEL SYSTEM INSTALLATION

..... Included with this section is a schematic of the fuel system

for your Q2. It is really quite simple.
.....Both the squeeze bulb (backup fuel pump) and the fuel shutoff
valve must be capable of being actuated by the pilot while seated in
the cockpit. However, it is important that the fuel line to the
carburetor from the header tank travel a minimum distance. Therefore,
it will probably be necessary to fabricate an extension on the fuel
valve handle such that the fuel valve can be located near the
firewall, in order to reduce the length of the fuel line to the
carburetor.
.....The two filters shown are very important. They must be checked
after every engine run for the first 20 hours. Regardless of how good
of a job you expect to accomplish in keeping contaminants out of the
two fuel tanks, particles will travel through the fuel lines and must
be removed. This is a safety-of-flight issue. The vibration of
taxiing will break loose particles for several hours. Do not ignore
fuel contamination problems.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 17-3

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 18 - Page 18-01

INSTRUMENT AND PITOT-STATIC INSTALLATION

INSTRUMENT PANEL INSTALLATION

..... An infinite variety of instrument panel configurations are

possible. Since this area of the aircraft is such a popular focus for
that 'custom' look, we have refrained from presenting any specific
configurations beyond the pictures of our panel and a few suggestions.
.....The basic outline of the instrument panel was cutout in Chapter 4.
It is suggested that all cutouts for instruments and equipment be
completed prior to permanently mounting the instrument panel to the
airframe. Nominally, the aft face of the panel is at FS41. This can
vary depending on the particular pilot size and positioning to be used
by the individual builder. The three sub panels that extend down below
the instrument panel to meet the two side consoles and the center
console are constructed from either scrap 1/8" thick plywood, or else
1/4" white foam with 1 BID on either side. One BID should be laminated
on either side of the complete instrument panel to add rigidity and to
seal the plywood.
.....If the builder wishes to make the instrument panel removable,
small tabs can be fabricated. These tabs would be bonded to the
fuselage, and the instrument panel bolted to them. Otherwise,
permanently mount the instrument panel with BID tapes to the fuselage
sides and the consoles. If the attachment is to be permanent, all work
forward of the panel should be completed prior to this step, as access
will become very difficult.
.....It is recommended that the following controls be on the center sub
panel: cowl flap, carb heat, mixture control. It is further recommended
that the throttle be located on the left sub panel. The electrical
switches and fuses can be located either on the center sub panel, or
else elsewhere accessible to the pilot. Conventionally, flight
instruments go on the left side of the panel, engine instruments
predominately in either the center of the panel or on the far right,
and avionics are mounted in either the center or the right side of the
panel.
.....Provision must also be made for a ground bolt, which is simply a
AN3-7A bolt located somewhere on the panel that is used to connect the
equipment needing grounding. (See the electrical system schematic).
.....The instruments included with the kit are those required by the
FAA for day VFR flight. There is plenty of additional room available
for optional instruments and avionics.

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 PITOT-STATIC SYSTEM INSTALLATION

..... Begin by mounting the two Q2PS1 static ports on either side of
the fuselage as shown. Use flox, being careful not to clog up the
static hole. Two static ports are used in order to assure accurate
readings during sideslip maneuvers.
.....The schematic indicates the required connections for the Airspeed
and Altimeter. Run the tubing so that it does not interfere with
baggage or passengers. It is recommended that it travel down the center
console before reaching the instruments.
.....The pitot system must be leak checked. Have one individual watch
the airspeed indicator, while the other person blows into the pitot
tube and uses his tongue to hold in the pressure. The airspeed
indicator should register a speed, which remains constant for a few
seconds. If the speed diminishes while the second individual is holding
the pressure in the system, then there is a leak somewhere, probably at
one of the connections.

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 END OF CHAPTER

PAGE 18-1

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 19 - Page 19-01

ELECTRICAL SYSTEM

INTRODUCTION
..... The schematic accompanying this chapter details the necessary
wiring for the standard Q2 kit. Additional information is provided for
wiring the more popular optional equipment items. A separate schematic
details hooking up the magneto switches and tachometer.
.....The panel ground bolt is simply a AN3-7A bolt located on the
instrument panel that is used to connect all items that must be
grounded.
.....
The fuses, fuse holders, wire (#14 and #6), connectors, and switches for

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 the standard Q2 kit are included. Optional equipment will require
additional components. The battery recommended with an electric starter
is a 12 v, 18 AH battery.
.....It is advisable to wait until a weight and balance has been
performed (see the Q2 Pilot's Manual) prior to locating the battery, in
order to use it as ballast to achieve the desired center of gravity
range. In lieu of that, it should be located in the baggage compartment
at about FS80.

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Q2 Plans - Chapter 20 - Page 20-01

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 COMPLETING YOUR Q2

STREAMLINING YOUR Q2
..... A significant improvement in your Q2's aerodynamic cleanliness
can be achieved by fabricating fillets and fairings for the major
component intersections. A bit of artistic ability is necessary to
develop a pleasing and efficient shape, but at this stage of the
construction, you will be up to it.

AILERON FILLETS
..... The aileron/fuselage junction should be filleted using scrap
foam and 1 BID. Each fillet will need to be 2 piece, as shown, if
your aft fuselage is removable. Careful work should allow most of the
gap to be filled on the top surface, while leaving a gap on the
bottom side to allow removal of the aileron.

ELEVATOR OUTBOARD FILLETS

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 ..... A fillet is also necessary between the inboard face of the
wheel pant and the outboard end of the elevator. Set the elevator
with the trailing edge approximately 4 degrees up. Use scrap foam and
1 BID to create a fillet similar to the one shown in the picture.

ELEVATOR INBOARD FILLETS

..... At the elevator/fuselage junction, a more complicated fillet
will improve performance. Since the junction angle is more than 90
degrees, you will want to sweep in a radius as shown using scrap foam
and 1 BID again. Visualize how the fillet will sweep into the
cowling.

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 PAGE 20-1

Q2 Plans - Chapter 20 - Page 20-02

CANARD/FUSELAGE FAIRING
..... At this point, their should be a noticeable and ugly gap under the
fuselage where the canard and fuselage meet. A fairing should be made
out of scrap foam and 1 BID similar to the picture.

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 MAIN WING TIPS
..... Now would also be a good time to carve wing tips on the main wing.
If you wish, you may add up to 3 inches of foam to the wing span to
facilitate a smooth looking wingtip. Keep it simple, however.

VERTICAL FIN TIP

..... Ditto for the tip of the vertical fin.

VERTICAL FIN ATTACHMENT

..... Previously, you mounted the vertical fin to the bottom of the
fuselage. Now is the time to permanently attach it to the fuselage and
create a pleasing fillet shape at the same time. Using pieces of foam,
fill the gap between the vertical fin and the aft fuselage. Carve the
foam down to a pleasing shape, as shown, and laminate 2 BID overlapping
onto the aft fuselage skin a minimum of 2 inches.

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 PAGE 20-2

Q2 Plans - Chapter 20 - Page 20-03

CARBURETOR AIR INLET

..... Cut a round hole in the lower cowling for the carburetor air
inlet. Fabricate a round tube by laminating 4 BID around a bottle
such that the tube will slip over the end of the alternate air
source. (Don't forget to use Vaseline on the bottle so the lamination
can be removed). Bond the tube to the lower cowling carburetor air
inlet hole. The result will be a direct ram air flow into the
carburetor.

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 CANOPY RETENTION
..... It is advisable to have some form of restraint for an open
canopy besides permitting it to rest on the main wing. Otherwise, in
case of a strong wind, the canopy may be blown off of the aircraft.
.....The illustration shows a simple shock cord arrangement. The
cable is sized so that the canopy will remain open with tension
against the shock cord. This will require the canopy to be open
approximately 90 degrees.
.....A more clever solution is to purchase a small gas spring
assembly (such as those on automobile hatchbacks) and install it on
the aft canopy bulkhead and the seat back bulkhead. This is the
ultimate in sex appeal!

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 COCKPIT AIR VENTS
..... A cockpit air vent on either side of the fuselage must be
installed prior to first flight. A simple shape, and recommended
location, is shown in the sketches.
.....To exhaust the cockpit air, a hole could be cut in the tailcone,
or else an exhaust vent could be cut in the aft top fuselage.

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 PITCH TRIM SYSTEM TENSION

..... While writing Section II of these plans, and building N81QA, we

built a simple system to vary the tension, or drag, on the pitch trim
wheel.
.....Make a third TS-1 bearing from phenolic. Drill a 3/8" diameter
hole as shown. Next, saw-cut the bearing through the hole, but do not
go all the way through and make. two pieces. The lower half of TS-1
is bonded with resin to the end TS-1 bearing already mounted. Do not
bond the top half or the system will not function.
.....Study the sketch. By turning the screw, the size of the 3/8"
hole can be varied slightly, changing the tension on the pitch trim
drum. A knob bonded to the screw would make tension adjustable in
flight.

CONTINUED ON NEXT PAGE

PAGE 20-3

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 20 - Page 20-04

EXHAUST SYSTEM MOUNTING

..... The exhaust pipe exits the cowling next to the cowl flap. In
traveling from the cylinders to the exit, the exhaust system will
enter and exit the baffling. These holes must be closed up to prevent
air leaks, and consequent reduction in cooling. Also, the warm
exhaust pipe must not come into contact with fiberglass or any of the
engine controls, so use asbestos where necessary.

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 PAINT AND FINISH
..... You are now ready for finishing and painting your Q2. Refer to
Chapter 3 for recommendations on the finish and paint. Your aircraft
may look like the aircraft pictured here, but you still have a ways
to go in order to achieve a sparkling surface finish that will turn
heads at all the airports you will be visiting.

Q2 GEOMETRY
..... On the following sheet is a three view of the Q2. On it has
been indicated the important aerodynamic and geometric references.
These have been expressed in terms of your old friends WL, BL, and
FS. They represent the geometry of a Q2 built properly from these Q2
Construction Plans. Please check them against your aircraft looking
for any major discrepancies. (See Q2 Pilot's Manual.)
.....It is necessary to mark WL15 location somewhere inside the
aircraft for weight and balance measurements.

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 Congratulations on completing your very own Q2.

PAGE 20-4

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 Q2 Plans - Chapter 20 - Page 20-05

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 PAGE 20-5

END

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