Artist Made

The Artists Wrap Skirt

Patterns
First off, I want to say thank you so much for supporting me and trying out
my first free pattern! I can’t wait to see what you make with it!
Please read over the instructions fully before starting.
This pattern was designed for advanced beginners.

Graphic Here View A + View B

View A

Supplies Needed:
● Fabric Scissors View B
● Seam Ripper
● All Purpose Sewing Thread
● Sewing Pins
● Interfacing (optional)
● Grommet (optional)

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Fabric Requirements:
As someone who thrifts frequently and is passionate about using second
hand fabrics when possible, I am always coming across fabrics that I can’t
really name or identify. If you have a medium to light-weight woven fabric
that you aren’t sure about, but you like the drape of and the way it feels, I
say go for it! You could also do a burn test to get a better idea of what your
second hand fabric is made of.
If using multiple fabrics to create a color-blocked version, make sure you are
using fabrics with a similar weight and type of fiber. Different fabrics might
wash and shrink or grow differently over time so you want to be careful
when choosing fabrics to color block with.
If you are going to buy new fabric, I recommend medium to light-weight,
natural, woven fibers like cotton, linen, rayon, silk, tencel or viscose.
Just keep in mind that the type of fabric you choose will have an impact on
the way the garment lays and how structured it is.

Add illustration here to show how the skirt would fit on someone from the
size. Use birdies photos for illustration.

A fabric design I created with the stencils for this pattersn that is available on SpoonFlower.com.
Just search for the Artist Made Patterns shop if you would like to check it out.

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 Yardage Requirements for View A:
Yards XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

45+ in 2.8 2.8 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.2 3.3 N/A N/A N/A

55+ in 1.7 1.7 1.7 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.8 3.3 3.3 3.3

Meters XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

114+ cm 2.6 2.6 2.9 2.9 2.9 2.9 3 N/A N/A N/A

139+ cm 1.6 1.6 1.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 3 3 3

Yardage Requirements for View B:

Yards XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

45+ in 3.8 3.8 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 4.3 N/A N/A N/A

55+ in 2.8 2.8 2.8 3.9 3.9 3.9 3.9 4.3 4.3 4.4

Meters XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

114+ cm 3.5 3.5 3.9 3.9 3.9 4 4 N/A N/A N/A

139+ cm 2.6 2.6 2.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 3.6 4 4 4

* For 2X through 4X it is possible to make the skirt on fabric that is 45 in or

114 cm wide but you may have to get creative with how you cut the pieces
out.
For example, all of the pieces of the 2X would fit within that range except
the waist ties. You could cut them out separately instead of on the fold and
piece them together. For the 3X and 4X you could do the same thing with
the waist ties and then also cut the back piece separately instead of on the
fold and piece it together. The waistbands and the front skirt panel pieces all
fit within that width and would not require any adjustments. Just be
mindful that if you make these adjustments you will need to order more
yards or meters of the fabric than is suggested in the charts above.
If you want to see exactly how much more you need to order, you can see
the exact measurements of each piece on the Measurements Chart PDF
that was included with this pattern for those who do not wish to print the
pattern pieces.

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 Body Measurements: Imperial (in)
Size XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

Waist 23-24.5 25-26.5 27-29 29.5-31.5 32-34.5 35.5-38 39-42 43-46 47-51 52-56

Hips 33-34.5 35-36.5 37-39 39.5-41.5 42-44.5 45.5-48 49-52 53-56 57-61 62-66

Body Measurements: Metric (cm)

Size XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

Waist 58.4-62.2 63.5-67.3 68.6-73.7 74.9-80 81.3-87.6 90.1-96.5 99-106.7 109.2-116.8 119.4-129.5 132-142.2

Hips 83.8-87.6 88.9-92.7 94-99 100.3-105.4 106.7-113 115.6-121.9 124.5-132 134.6-142.2 144.8-154.9 157.5-167.6

Finished Measurements: Imperial (in)

Size XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

Waist Total 36 38.4 41.1 44 47.5 51.4 56 60.6 66 72

Hips Total 64 68 72.4 77.2 83.2 89.8 97.6 105 114.8 124.2

Waist Back 11.3 12 12.9 13.8 14.8 16 17.5 19 20.7 22.5

Hips Back 25.8 27.3 29.2 31.1 33.4 36 39 42 45.8 49.6

Length 37.2 37.3 37.5 37.6 37.7 37.8 37.9 38 38.2 38.3

Finished Measurements: Metric (cm)

Size XS S M L XL XXL 1X 2X 3X 4X

Waist Total 91.4 97.5 104.4 111.8 120.7 130.6 142.2 153.9 167.6 182.9

Hips Total 163 172.8 184.6 196.8 211.4 228 247.6 267.2 291.4 315.6

Waist Back 28.7 30.5 32.8 35.1 37.6 40.6 44.5 48.26 52.6 57.15

Hips Back 65.5 69.4 74.2 79 84.8 91.4 99 106.7 116.3 126

Length 94.5 94.8 95.1 95.4 95.7 96.1 96.4 96.7 97 97.3

*See illustration and “A Note About Fit” on the next page to help with
determining what size you should make.

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 Waist Total
Waist + Hips Back

Add illustration here to help show measurements.

Hips Total

A Note About Fit:

View A is a knee length skirt with curved seams and less gathers in the
waist. View B is a midi length skirt with straight seams and more gathers in
the waist.

I have designed the side seams of the wrap skirt to fit slightly behind where
a true side seam would normally fit so that there is more room to tighten or
loosen the skirt if you find your measurements fluctuating. I have included
the measurements of the back for the waist and the hips separately to help
give you an idea of where the side seams might fit on you; the front pieces
are designed to overlap each other but not so much that they reach all the
way to the side seams. If you find your measurements are between sizes in
the size chart, go with the smaller size.

The back of the skirt is designed to have more gathers and volume than the
front of the skirt. If you would prefer to have gathers that are more even all
the way around, you might consider adding a few inches to the width of the
front skirt panels or taking a few inches off of the width of the back skirt
panels. Just consult the measurements chart if subtracting volume to make
sure the skirt will still fit comfortably on you.

When trying to decide what size to make, it can be helpful to wrap your
measuring tape around yourself using the waist total measurement so see
how much overlap there will be and to use the waist back measurement to
see where the side seams will fit on you.

A Note About Length:

This pattern was designed for a height of 5 ft 5 in (165.1 cm). View A is
designed to lay just above the knees and View B is designed to lay just
above the ankles. To shorten or lengthen simply add or subtract the desired
amount from the bottom of the skirt pattern pieces.

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Printing and PDF Layout All Sizes:
Use this file if you need to print out sizes XXL through 4X and to print out the
stencils for painting (pg 41-44). There is a separate file for sizes XS through
XL to save paper.

When printing at home, print out page 1 first to measure your test square
and make sure it is measuring 2x2 in or 4x4 cm before you print the whole
PDF out. The print at home file works for US Letter and A4. The excess edges
will just need to be trimmed off. Make sure your printer is set to print at
100%. When assembled together your pattern should look like the image
below.

There is also a separate PDF titled Measurements Chart that will allow you to
make View B without having to print any pattern pieces out.

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Printing and PDF Layout Sizes XS Through XL:
Use this file to print out sizes XS through XL to save paper.

When printing at home, print out page 1 first to measure your test square
and make sure it is measuring 2x2 in or 4x4 cm before you print the whole
PDF out. The print at home file works for US Letter and A4. The excess edges
will just need to be trimmed off. Make sure your printer is set to print at
100%. When assembled together your pattern should look like the image
below.

There is also a separate PDF titled Measurements Chart that will allow you to
make View B without having to print any pattern pieces out.

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Yardage Layout:
Layout 1: Fabric width of 45+ in or 114+ cm. Sizes XS & S.
Layout 2: Fabric width of 45+ in or 114+ cm. Sizes M - 1X.

Layout 3: Fabric width of 55+ in or 139+ cm. Size XS - M.

Layout 4: Fabric width of 55+ in or 139+ cm. Sizes L - 1X.
Layout 5: Fabric width of 55+ in or 139+ cms. Sizes 2X - 4X.

The fold is on the right side of each diagram and the selvage is on the left.
The exception is on the top section of layout 3, where the fold is on the right
and the left and the selvage edges meet in the middle.

1 2 3 4 5

These pieces
represent the
front skirt panels.

This piece
represents the
back skirt
panel.

These pieces
represent the
waist ties.
These pieces
represent the
waisband.
These pieces
represent the
pockets.

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Waistband Cutting Instructions:
For the waistband, you may consider adding interfacing if you are sewing
with a very light weight fabric. The way that the waistband is constructed, it
will fold over on itself so that there are three layers of fabric which makes it
pretty structured on its own. If you like a very firm waistband however and
are using light weight fabric you may want to consider using interfacing.
I have not included a separate pattern piece for interfacing; just use the
waistband piece to cut out your interfacing so that they are the same size.
For the notches on the waistband, you will cut the waistband pieces out first
and unfold them before you place your marking for the notches.

With both waistband pieces unfolded you will place them on top of each
other, right sides facing. Then you will place your pattern piece on top so
that it lines up with the edge of your fabric on the right side. Mark or cut
notches in both pieces of fabric where indicated on the pattern piece.
         

The Arists Wrap Skirt

Artist Made Patterns

 




 

         

Insert graphic here for how to mark notches.

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 Now it is Time to Assemble Your Garment:
All seam allowances in this pattern are ½ in (1.3 cm) unless otherwise stated.
Backstitch all seams at ends to secure except for top stitching unless
otherwise stated.

When finishing edges I would recommend pinking or using a zigzag stitch.

It is possible to finish edges with a serger but it gets a little tricky on the
pockets because they require pivoting.

Right side of fabric. Wrong side of fabric.

1. Attach pockets to skirt panels.

a. Line up the corners of your pockets

with the corners of your skirt pieces
right sides facing. Stitch them
together using a ⅜ in (1 cm) seam
or allowance. Finish the edge of the
seam where the pocket is attached to
the skirt panel.

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 b. Press the pockets back on the right
side of the fabric so that they lay nice
and flat. When pressed the pocket
should overlap the seam allowance.

or

2. Understitch the pocket pieces on the

back skirt panel.

For the pocket pieces that are attached

to the back of the skirt, you will want to
understitch them on the pocket so that
you are catching the seam allowance
underneath in your stitching.

3. Attach skirt panels and pockets.

Lay the front panels over the back panel

right sides facing with pockets and sides
matching up. Pin and stitch together
from the top to the bottom, going
around the pockets and then pivoting to
go down the side. Finish edges.

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 4. Topstitch the pocket pieces on the
Front Skirt front skirt panels.
Panel

a. With the right side of the skirt facing

Pocket you, open the pocket up so that is
spread apart then pin the front skirt
panel to the front pocket piece.

Back Skirt
Panel

b. Topstitch along the edge where the

pocket meets the front skirt panel
until you reach the bottom of the
The view from directly overhead: pocket.
Pocket
To finish you can either backstitch or
pull your thread through to the inside
Back Skirt Panel Front Skirt Panel of the skirt and tie off there.

5. Baste the tops of your pockets to the

tops of your front skirt panels.

Put your pocket piece back together so

that the seams are lined up, and lay your
pocket flat against the front skirt panel.
Baste the pocket and skirt pieces
together along the top edge.

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 6. Finish skirt sides like a ½ in (1.3 cm)
double fold hem.

7. Prepare the waist ties.

a. Fold one short end over on itself,

wrong sides facing, by ¼ in (6 mm)
and press in place.

b. Fold the tie in half long ways, wrong

sides facing, and press.

c. Open up the tie and fold each half in

long ways so that they touch in the
middle and press.

d. Fold the tie in half long ways again, as

if you were making double fold bias
tape, and press.

e. Stitch all the way down the tie along

the open edge and one end.

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 8. Prepare the waist band.

a. Put the two waist band pieces

together, right sides facing, and stitch
the side that the notches are closest
to together, creating the center of
your waist band. Press seams open.

b. Press each short edge of the

waistband in by ½ in (1.3cm), wrong
sides facing.

c. Press the top edge of the waistband

(the side without notches) down by 1
½ in (3.8 cm) wrong sides facing.

9. Gather skirt.

a. Adjust your stitch length to the

longest setting possible and stitch
two lines across the top of your skirt
panels for the gathered waist at ⅛
and ¼ in (3 mm and 6 mm) seam
allowances, making sure ​not​ to
backstitch and to leave your thread
tails long enough for you to grab and
pull them.

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 b. Gently pull the bottom thread (from
the bobbin) from each side and slide
your fabric along to create gathers
until your skirt is the same width as
your waistband.

Make sure that your notch on the

back skirt panel lines up with the
center seam on the waistband and
that your notches on the waistband
line up with the side seams on your
skirt.

10. Attach the waistband to the skirt.

a. With your skirt laying down so that

the wrong side is up, lay your
waistband over the skirt with the
wrong side up so that the right side of
the waistband is facing the wrong
side of your skirt.

b. With the ends of your waistband lined

up with the ends of your skirt, and
your notches lined up as specified in
step 9. b., pin and stitch the
waistband to the skirt.

c. From the right side of the fabric, press

the waistband up away from the skirt.

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 d. Fold the waistband over again so that
your pressed edge is just over your
seamline. Pin in place.

e. Insert your waist ties into the middle

of the openings on each side of your
waistband by ½ in (1.3 cm) and pin
them in place.

f. Stitch along the edge of the sides and

the bottom of your waistband. To
finish you can backstitch or tie your
thread off by hand.

11. Hem the bottom using a 1 in (2.5 cm)

double fold hem.

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Note: It does not matter which side of the skirt you place the belt loop on
and which side of the skirt you place the button hole on but it does affect
the direction that your skirt panel will wrap.
For example, if you would like the right side of your skirt to be the piece that
overlaps the other skirt piece in the front, you would want to place your belt
loop on your left side and your button hole on your right side.

It is a good idea to try your skirt on and see which way you would prefer it
before creating a button hole and sewing the belt loop on. You may also
want to consider adding additional belt loops onto the back of the skirt if
you are concerned about the straps potentially slipping.

12. Create a button hole for the waist tie to

fit through.

You want your button hole to sit just

above the side seam and be about ⅝ of
an inch (1.6 cm) long.

Note: If you are new to sewing and are not comfortable with button holes
yet or if you just want to try something different you can use a ½ in (13 mm)
grommet instead of a button hole.

13. Optional: Add belt loop.

a. With your belt loop facing wrong side

up, fold the top and bottom pieces
inward by ½ in (1.3 cm) and press.

b. Fold the sides inwards by ½ in (1.3cm)

and press.

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 c. Fold the whole piece in half so that
the sides meet and stitch down the
open edge.

d. Pin your belt loop to the waist band

directly above one of the side seams.
Stitch to the waistband along the top
and bottom edges.

Congratulations!! You are all done!

Don’t forget to share your make using the hashtags #artistmadepatterns
and #artistswrapskirt so that other sewists can see it and be inspired! Also
because this is still a lil baby pattern company and I need your help to
spread the word. I will be eternally grateful and I hope you enjoy wearing
your Artists Wrap Skirt!
- Taryn

Did you enjoy using this pattern?

You can find more at www.ArtistMadePatterns.com

Pattern is for Individual Use Only

Feel free to use this pattern as many times as you want for yourself or to
make gifts, but do not copy, distribute, or sell it in any way. This includes
versions you made yourself using the pattern. If you know people who are
interested in the pattern let them know it’s free and where they can
download it.
- Thank you for understanding!

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 About Carmen Herrera

The stencils for the Artists Wrap Skirt were inspired by the works of Carmen
Herrera; a Cuban American artist born in 1915 in Havana, Cuba. While she
was making incredible works of art in the 1940’s and the following decades
she did not gain fame and international recognition until later in life.

Her unique geometric style of abstract minimalism is timeless and has

inspired multiple generations of artists who came after her.

If you are interested in tying the stencils out to make a hand painted version
of the skirt I hope you take the time to look her up and see her works for
yourself. I have been immensely inspired by them.

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