JOE THE FROG BOOK/TABLET HOLDER PATTERN

BY CROCHET ARCADE

Find me here:
www.crochetarcade.co.uk

CrochetArcade
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PATTERN INFORMATION

MATERIALS: ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMS):

Crochet Hook: YO- Yarn Over (hook)

Size 8 mm/L - for double chunky/bulky yarn St – Stitch
Sts - Stitches
Size 6 mm/J - for chunky yarn Sl st – Slip Stitch
Yarn: Teddy Avril Double Chunky Ch – Chain
(Note this yarn calls for 10 mm/N hook. I’ve Sc- Single Crochet
used 8 mm hook so the holes between the Hdc – Half Double Crochet
stitches are minimal. If your store doesn’t Dc- Double Crochet
stock this yarn you should be able to Tr – Treble Crochet
substitute it with any other yarn that calls for
FPsc – Front Post Single Crochet
10 mm hook. Just check your
gauge/tension.) sc2tog – Single Crochet Two Together (single
crochet decrease)
Colour A: Green (32) 360g () – Stitches in the bracket go all in one stitch
Teddy Avril Chunky Knitting [] – repeat the sequence in the square
brackets given amount of times indicated
Colour B: Black (26) after the bracket.
Colour C: Yellow (10)

Colour D: Cream (02)

Colour E: Bottle Green (15)

SPECIAL STITCHES INSTRUCTION:
Colour F: Pink (31) sc2tog – insert hook in next st, yo and pull up a
loop, insert hook in the following st, yo and pull
Other: Yarn Needle, scissors, hollowfibre up a loop again, yo and pull through all 3 loops
filling (around 240g). on your hook.

GAUGE: ATTENTION: All content of this pattern,

9 stitches and 11 rows to 10 cm x 10 cm (4 x 4 including but not limited to photographs,
in) over single crochet using 8mm/L hook logos and text is owned by Aneta Wawro -
Crochet Arcade. A copy of this pattern or it’s
content may not be sold, reproduced,
distributed, transmitted, displayed, published
SIZE: or broadcast without the prior written
permission of Crochet Arcade. This pattern
Holder body: 31 cm (12 in) wide x 21 cm (8 in)
can be printed for personal use only. Items
deep x 33 cm (13 in) high.
made from this pattern may be sold on the
Eyes: 5,5 cm (2,25 in) x 6,5 cm (2.5 in) small scale but please give credit to Crochet
Arcade by linking to my blog
Tongue: 4 cm (1,5 in) x 5 cm (2 in) www.crochetarcade.co.uk if you're selling the
item online.

Copyright Crochet Arcade 2017

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9) Sc in next 7 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 22 sts, 2 sc

JOE THE FROG BOOK/TABLET HOLDER PATTERN in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next
22 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 7 sts. (88 sc)

10) Sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 24 sts, 2 sc

Pattern notes:
in next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next
• Body is worked as one piece from the bottom 24 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts. (96 sc)
up in a round. The right side is on the outside.
• Because single crochets are worked in a round, 11) Sc in next 9 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts, 2 sc in
they will naturally lean one way. It’s necessary next st, sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in next st, sc in next 28 sts,
to straighten up the stitches so the holder will 2 sc in next st, sc in next 9 sts. (100 sc)
have the right shape.
• Attach a stitch marker on the front of the last
Pattern notes:
stitch. Move this marker up on the last stitch of
each round. If your gauge/tension is the same as mine, you should
• Work first stitch of the new round directly on now have a rectangle of a size approximately 21 cm x
top of the first stitch from previous round 31 cm (not counting top loops of the stitches), which
without joining to it first with sl st. is a bottom of the book holder. Continue with the
pattern below.

Main Book holder body - frog: 12) Sc in each st around. (100 sc)

With colour A, using 8mm hook make 11 chains. 13) - 19) repeat round 12. (100 sc)

1) 2 sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next 8 chains, 4 sc in last ch,

now work stitches on the other side of the chain in the Pattern notes:
remaining loops: sc in next 8 loops, 2 sc in last loop. (24 Now take a hook off your loop and enlarge it, or put
sc) a stitch marker on it so it doesn’t unravel. Don’t cut
2) 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 4 sts, sc in the yarn off. Leave it as it is, we will come back to it
next 8 sts, 2 sc in last 2 sts. (32 sc) later in the round 30.
We will now move to the front side of the rectangle
3) Sc in first st, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next
and start making the flat bit of the holder, the one
2 sts, sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2
where the book/tablet sits on. The rows of sc will be
sc in next 2 sts, sc in last st. (40 sc)
worked back and forth unlike the rest of the holder.
4) Sc in next 2 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in On the end of each row we will sl st to the first sc that
next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sits on the side of the row just finished, let’s call it
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 2 sts. (48 sc) ‘side wall’ of the rectangle. We won’t be making 1 ch
to start each row, instead we will sl st to the following
5) Sc in next 3 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 14 sts, 2 sc in
sc on the ‘side wall’ of stitches (the one above the sc,
next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 14
that we slip stitched, to finish last row). The purpose
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 3 sts. (56 sc)
of slip stitching to the side, is so we won’t need to
6) Sc in next 4 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 16 sts, 2 sc in stitch the flat bit to the sides of the square but just
next 2 sts, sc in next 8 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 16 continue the piece. In other words each row of sc will
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 4 sts. (64 sc) have sl st at the beginning and at the end of it.
7) Sc in next 5 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 18 sts, 2 sc in If you find it confusing though, you can simply make
next 2 sts, sc in next 10 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 18 rows 20 to 29 without slip stitching at the end and
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 5 sts. (72 sc) then sew on the sides of the created ‘flap’ to the side
of the rectangle. See the photo on the next page.
8) Sc in next 6 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 20 sts, 2 sc in
next 2 sts, sc in next 12 sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 20
sts, 2 sc in next 2 sts, sc in next 6 sts. (80 sc)

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Pattern notes:
20) Skip next 10 stitches from when you just finished and
slip stitch new ball of yarn to 11th st, make sc (without In the next round work stitches around the front
starting 1 chain) in the next 28 sts, sl st to top of next posts of single crochets. This will cause top loops of
available sc from side of the rectangle and then sl st to the single crochets to be on the outside which will
the sc above it and turn. (28 sc) enable you to crochet the row of single crochets on
top of those stitches later on. The row of single
crochets will create a ridge which will stop the
book/tablet from sliding if you want it in more
upright position. If you struggle with working
stitches around front posts then just make single
crochets in a normal way as those ridges aren’t
crucial for the functionality of the holder.

27) Same as row 21 but work stitches in front posts of sc

from previous round. (28 FPsc)

28) Repeat row 21. (28 sc)

29) Skip 2 slip stitches made on the end of previous round

and make 28 sc on top of 28 sc from previous round, sl
21) Skip 2 slip stitches made on the end of previous round st to top of next available sc from side of the rectangle
and make 28 sc on top of 28 sc from previous round, sl and fasten off. (28 sc)
st to top of next available sc from side of the rectangle
Pattern notes:
and then sl st to the sc above it and turn. (28 sc)
(Optional) As mentioned in the note above, make a
22) - 26) Repeat row 21. (28 sc) row of sc, on top of 2 loops left after row 27. Start
the row on the right, facing the outside.

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42) Sc in 26, sc2tog, sc in 38, sc2tog. (66)

43) Sc2tog, sc in 22, sc2tog, sc in next 7, sc2tog sc in next

22 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 7 sts. (62)

44) Sc in 24, sc2tog, sc in 34, sc2tog. (60)

45) Sc2tog, sc in 20, sc2tog, sc in next 6, sc2tog sc in next

20 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 6 sts. (56)

46) Sc in 22, sc2tog, sc in 30, sc2tog. (54)

47) Sc2tog, sc in 18, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next

18 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (50)

48) Sc2tog, sc in 16, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next

16 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (46)
Pattern notes:
Put your crochet hook back in the loop where you
finished round 19. We will now work in a round again, TIP: Mark 11th and 14th st with safety pins, that’s where
so remember about moving your stitch marker up you will sew on the nose later on.
after end of each round.
49) Sc2tog, sc in 14, sc2tog, sc in next 5, sc2tog sc in next
14 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 5 sts. (42)
30) Sc in next st, skip sl st from the end of round 29, sc in
the rest of the sts to the end of the round. (80 sc)
Pattern notes:
At this point stuff the book holder with hollowfibre
filling firmly and evenly. Fill it in sections, first the
front section, then the rest of the bottom and lastly
the top but avoid the lumps. Be careful to not over
fill the holder as the stuffing will start to stretch
your crochet fabric and holes between the stitches
will become visible. Also the holder will be
misshaped. The most important bit to not overfill, is
the front of the book holder, that’s used to place
the book/tablet. This part needs to remain flat so
books don’t slide down. Keep filling the inside of the
body until it’s quite firm. Press it all over, looking for
hollow bits and fill them up.

31) Sc2tog, sc in next 26, sc2tog, sc in next 50 sts. (78)

32) Sc in each st. (78) 50) Sc2tog all around. (21)

33) Sc in each st. (78) 51) 2 sc in each sc. (42)
34) Sc in next 28 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 46 sts, sc2tog. (76) 52) Sc in each st. (42)
35) Sc in each st. (76) 53) Sc2tog, sc in next 16 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, [sc, sc2tog] 6
36) Sc in each st. (76) times, sc2tog. (32)

37) Sc in 28, sc2tog, sc in 44, sc2tog. (74) 54) Sc2tog, sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, sc2tog, [sc in
next 2 sts, sc2tog] 3 times. (25)
38) Sc in each st. (74)
55) Sc2tog, sc in next 12 sts, sc2tog, [sc, sc2tog] 3 times. (20)
39) Sc in each st. (74)
56) [Sc2tog, sc in next 3 sts] 4 times. (16)
40) Sc in 28, sc2tog, sc in 42, sc2tog. (72)
57) [Sc2tog] 8 times. (8)
41) Sc2tog, sc in 24, sc2tog, sc in next 8, sc2tog, sc in next
24 sts, sc2tog, sc in next 8 sts. (68) 58) [Sc2tog] 4 times. (4)

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3) With D make 1ch, sc in same st, (sc & hdc) in next st, (hdc
Pattern notes: & dc) in next st, 2 dc in next st, (dc & hdc) in next st, (hdc
Add more filling and do the final check if the shape of & sc) in next st, sc in next st, 3 sc in next st, sc in next 3
the holder is right and there isn’t any hollow bits. sts, 3 sc in next st, sl st to first sc and fasten off leaving a
Fasten off leaving a longer tail. Using blunt ended longer tail so you can use it to stitch the eyes to the top of
yarn needle close the hole by gathering 7 stitches of the head.
the last round together. Then, darn in the ends
invisibly inside the stitches to secure it. SPOTS:

Pattern notes:
To make all 3 types of spots use colour E. You can
make as many spots as you want and position
them freely or use my suggestions. Leave a longer
tail on each spot when you cut the yarn off, you
can use it to stitch the spots in place.

Small Spot - around 2,5 cm/ 1 in (make 3)

1) Make a magic ring (or 2 ch) and make: 1ch, 6 sc in the

middle of the ring. Sl st to first sc and fasten off or use
invisible finish method for a neater look. You can find
EYE (Make 2): invisible fasten off tutorial on my blog.

Medium Spot – around 3,5 cm/1,5 in (make 4)

Pattern notes: 1) Make a magic ring and make: 1ch, 6 sc in the middle of
When changing to a new colour, introduce the new the ring (use stitch marker). (6 sc)
colour by using it for the last yarn over hook at the 2) 2 sc in each sc (12 sc), fasten off (invisible finish).
end of the previous round.
Large Spot – around 5 cm/2 in (make 2)

1) Make a magic ring and make: 1ch, 6 sc in the middle of

the ring (use stitch marker). (6 sc)

2) 2 sc in each sc. (12 sc)

3) [sc in next st, 2 sc in next] 6 times (18 sc), fasten off.

Tip: When cutting the yarn off from the previous yarn
and introducing the new colour, work over the yarn
ends for 4-5 stitches to secure them, then clip off the
remaining yarn before sewing it on.

With B (black) make a magic ring (check out my magic ring

tutorial) or 2 ch and work all stitches in 2nd ch from hook.

1) With B (black) make 1ch, 6 sc in the middle of the ring.

Change to C and sl st to first sc. (6 sc)

2) With C (yellow) 1ch, 2 sc in each st. To finish the last stitch

yo color D, sl st to first sc. (12 sc)

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TONGUE:
Using color F make 4 ch. Starting from 2nd ch from hook make:

1) Sc in next 2 sts, 4 sc in last st, on the other side of the

chain make sc in next 2 loops, turn. (8 sc)

2) Sl st in next 2 sts, (sc & hdc) in next st, (hdc &dc) in next
st, (dc & hdc) in next st, (hdc & sc) in next st, sl st in last 2
sts (12 sts).

Fasten off leaving a longer tale and use it to stitch the

tongue to the body later.

FRONT BAR:
With A make 29 ch. Starting from 2nd ch from hook:

1) Sc in each st. (28 sc)

2) to 6) repeat row 1 (with 1 turning ch at the end of each
row), fasten off leaving long end (around 100cm).

Pattern notes:
Lay a bit of stuffing evenly on the piece of fabric just
made, sew the bottom of the fabric to the top of last
row, using sl st and the yarn tail that’s left after
fastening off.

FINISHING:
Sewing on the eyes:

Examine the photo below and sew on the eyes, square side
down (where there are 3 sc in each corner) and close
together between round 51 and 57 using yarn end. Make
overcast stitches with the blunt ended yarn needle around
the top loops of the stitches as shown on the photos below.

Pattern notes:
With the yarn end first sew the side of the bar together
and then sew it on the side so it leans toward the inside
of book holder. Then sew the bottom of the bar using
overcast stitch on top of row 21 and lastly sew the
other side of the bar together and to the body as
shown on the photos below.

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Sewing on the nose: (Optional) Don’t sew the tongue all the way around. I’ve only
sew on 2 stitches on each side and left the rest, so the cheeky
Using color B sew the nose on the row 48 on the 11th and 14th
tongue can flap about.
st. Make overcast st twice for each nose hole.

Sewing on the mouth:

Sew the smile on, that will stretch from the bottom of row 15 Sewing on the Spots:
to top of the row 20 and over the whole width of the front to
Sew on the spots any way you want in a group of 2s and 3s as
give it a nice smiley impression. Each of my stitches is made
seen on the photos below.
over 2 sc stitches.

TIP: If you do the sts next to each other, they will

stretch and gaps between them will be visible,
which will give the effect of broken line. To
achieve a continuous line, when making another
stitch go over the tip of the previous stitch to
catch it on. This way there won’t be any gaps
between the stitches.

The End
I LOVE WHAT I DO AND
I HOPE YOU WILL TOO
PLEASE COME BACK
Sewing on the tongue: AND LEAVE A REVIEW
Using long tail sew the tongue in line with smile on either
side.

Copyright Crochet Arcade 2017