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Free Amigurumi Crochet Lulu the Diva Dog

Pattern

Scroll down further for pattern in full and more

photos.
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Yarn
Scheepjes Stone Washed Sport/Baby 22% Acrylic 78% Cotton, 130m per 50g.
MC: 70g approx of Smokey Quartz (802) - Head, Body, Arms, Legs, Tail, Ears, Eye Lids.

Scheepjes Catona 4 ply 100% Cotton, 125m per 50g.

CC1: 10g approx of Jet Black (110) - Nose, Paw Pads, Pupils, Mouth.
CC2: Small amount of Hot Red (115) - Collar.
CC3: Small amount of Cyan (397) - Heart Tag.
CC4: Small amount of Snow White (106) - Eye Balls & Eye Highlight.

You can scale this pattern up or down by altering the yarn and hook. Use a heavier weight yarn and
larger hook for a bigger Dog and a lighter weight yarn and smaller hook for a little one.
To read more about scaling an Amigurumi pattern up or down, check out my guide HERE.

Hook
2 mm - for the yarn specified above.

Other Supplies
Yarn needle, toy stuffing, stitch marker/waste yarn, pins and scissors.

Tension
MC: 26 sts x 26 rows = 10cm/4in measured over UK dc using 2mm hook with Scheepjes Stone
Washed Sport/Baby.
Tension is not critical for this project but stitches should be tight enough to avoid stuffing showing
through.

Size
Lulu is 23cm/9in from top to toe.

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 Crochet Dog - right side Crochet Dog - left side

Pattern Notes
Most parts of Lulu are made in the amigurumi style in a continuous spiral without joins.

Her Collar is made in turned rows. The turning chains aren't included in the stitch count.

Colour changes take place on the last yrh of the last stitch of the previous round.

Use a stitch marker or waste yarn to keep track of the first stitch of each round. You can find a
Photo Tutorial about using waste yarn as a stitch marker HERE.

If you don't want to make a Magic Ring you can start each piece by making a chain of 2 and then
work the first round into the second chain from the hook.

If you'd like to start with a Magic Ring but don’t know how, you can find a Photo Tutorial HERE.

Lulu is made of multiple separate pieces sewn together. Unless otherwise stated, finish each piece
by pulling the yarn through the last loop and leave a long tail for sewing. Any loose tails at the end
can be easily woven in.

UK Crochet Terms - Abbreviations

This pattern is written using UK Crochet Terms - they are NOT the same as US ones - please
familiarise yourself with the UK terms to avoid your character’s shape distorting!

The “dc” abbreviation used in this pattern refers to UK double crochet. The equivalent stitch in US
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terms is single crochet - if you are used to US patterns you need to work single crochet everywhere
this pattern says “dc”. If you work US dc (equivalent to UK Treble) the finished item will be
elongated and the stuffing will show through.

This pattern also uses UK htr - half treble. The equivalent stitch in US terms is US hdc - half double
crochet.

If you are used to working in US Crochet Terms you can find a conversion chart HERE.
If you are unfamiliar with any of the terms used in this pattern, find a chart of the UK
Crochet terms used HERE.

Increasing and decreasing

You may use either standard increases and decreases in this pattern or, for a much neater finish,
invisible ones. FLO = Front loop only.

Decrease - "dc2tog" in pattern.

Standard Decrease: Insert hook in next st, yrh, pull through stitch (2 loops on hook), insert hook in
next st, yrh, pull up a loop (3 loops on hook), yrh, pull through all 3 loops on hook.

Invisible decrease: Insert hook in FLO of the two stitches to be decreased, yrh, pull through both
front loops, yrh, pull through two loops on hook.

Increase - "2 dc in next st" in pattern.

Standard Increase: Work 2 dc in next st.

Invisible Increase: Work 1 dc in FLO of next st and 1 dc in both loops of same st.

Body
Worked from the bottom up. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 6: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 7: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 8: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 9-11: Dc around.
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Rnd 12: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnds 13-15: Dc around.
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnds 17-20: Dc around.
Rnd 21: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 22-25: Dc around.
Rnd 26: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 27-29: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Body to the Head once you've made all the parts.

Head
Made from the front to the back. Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnds 5-10: Dc around.
Rnd 11: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 16: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 17: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 48 sts
Rnds 18-23: Dc around.
Rnd 24: [6 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 42 sts
Rnd 25: [5 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 36 sts
Rnd 26: [4 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnd 27: [3 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 28: [2 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 29: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 6 times. 12 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dc2tog. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Leave a long yarn tail
for sewing the Head to the Body once you've made all the parts.

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 Crochet Dog - back right Crochet Dog - back left

Ears - make 2
Made from the bottom of the Ear upwards. Do not stuff.

Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 8 sts
Rnd 3: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 10 sts
Rnd 4: [4 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 5: [5 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 14 sts
Rnd 6: [6 dc, 2 dc in next st] twice. 16 sts
Rnd 7: *6 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice; rep from * once more. 20 sts
Rnd 8: 7 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 8 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc. 24 sts
Rnds 9-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 19 dc, 1 dc2tog, 1 dc, 1 dc2tog. 22 sts
Rnd 16: 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc. 20 sts
Rnd 17: Dc around.
Rnd 18: 1 dc2tog, 16 dc, 1 dc2tog. 18 sts
Rnd 19: Dc around.
Rnd 20: 1 dc2tog, 14 dc, 1 dc2tog. 16 sts
Rnd 21: 1 dc2tog, 12 dc, 1 dc2tog. 14 sts
Rnd 22: [1 dc2tog, 5 dc] twice. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Ears to the Head once you've made all the parts.

Legs - make 2
Made from the bottom
POWERED BY up. Stuff as you go.
Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 18 sts
Rnd 4: [2 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 24 sts
Rnd 5: [3 dc, 2 dc in next st] 6 times. 30 sts
Rnds 6-7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 8 dc, [1 dc2tog, 2 dc] 3 times, 1 dc2tog, 8 dc. 26 sts
Rnd 9: 8 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] 3 times, 1 dc2tog, 7 dc. 22 sts
Rnd 10: 7 dc, 4 dc2tog, 7 dc. 18 sts
Rnd 11: 4 dc, 4 dc2tog, 6 dc. 14 sts
Rnds 12-14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 4 dc, 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 1 dc2tog, 4 dc. 12 sts
Rnds 16-21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Legs to the Body once you've made all the parts.

Arms - make 2
Made from the bottom up. Stuff as you go. This piece begins with a chain, for an oval start, rather
than a magic ring. The chains are not included in the stitch count. There's a photo tutorial showing
the principle of an Oval Start HERE.

With MC, chain 4.

Rnd 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 3 dc, 2 ch, rotating as you go, in the other side of the chain
work, 3 dc, 2 ch. 6 sts
Rnd 2: [3 dc, 3 dc in 2 ch-sp] twice. 12 sts
Rnd 3: *3 dc, [2 dc in next st] 3 times; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnd 4: *4dc, [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice, 2 dc in next st; rep from * once more. 24 sts
Rnds 5-9: Dc around.
Rnd 10: *1 dc2tog, 4 dc, [1 dc2tog, 1 dc] twice; rep from * once more. 18 sts
Rnds 11-12: Dc around.
Rnd 13: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 3 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc2tog. 12 sts
Rnds 14-18: Dc around.
Rnd 19: [1 dc2tog, 4 dc] twice. 10 sts
Rnds 20-21: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Arms to the Body once you've made all the parts.

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 Crochet dog - tail

Tail
Made from the tip back towards the Body. Stuff as you go. The increases and decreases create the
curve in the Tail.

Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 4 dc. 4 sts

Rnd 2: [2 dc in next st, 1 dc] twice. 6 sts
Rnds 3-5: Dc around.
Rnd 6: 2 dc in next st, 5 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 7: Dc around.
Rnd 8: 1 dc2tog, 2 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 7 sts
Rnd 9: Rep Rnd 8.
Rnd 10: 3 dc, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 11: Dc around.
Rnd 12: 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 3 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 13: Rep Rnd 12.
Rnd 14: Dc around.
Rnd 15: 1 dc, 1 dc2tog, 3 dc, 2 dc in next st, 2 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 16: 3 htr, 6 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 17: 4 htr, 5 dc. 9 sts
Rnd 18: 2 dc, 5 htr, 2 dc. 9 sts

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Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Tail to the Body once you've made all the parts.

Crochet Dog - nose detail

Nose
Made from top down. Stuff at the end.

Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnd 3: 2 dc, *[2 dc in next st] twice, 1 dc; rep from * once more, [2 dc in next st] twice, 2 dc. 18 sts
Rnds 4-6: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Nose to the Head once you've made all the parts.

Eye Balls - make 2

Stuff as you go.

Rnd 1: With CC4, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: [1 dc, 2 dc in next st] 3 times. 9 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Rnd 5: [1 dc, 1 dc2tog] 3 times. 6 sts
Fasten off. Weave yarn tail through FLO of last 6 sts and pull to close hole. Weave in end.

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Eye Lids - make 2
Do not stuff.

Rnd 1: With MC, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts

Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around. 12 sts
Rnds 3-4: Dc around.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Eye Lids around the Eye Balls once you've made all
the parts.

Pupils - make 2

Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 5 dc, join with a sl st in beg dc. 5 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Pupils to the Eye Balls once you've made all the
parts.

Crochet Dog - collar detail

Collar

With CC2, chain 34.

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Row 1: Starting in 2nd ch from hook, 33 dc. Turn. 33 sts
Row 2: 1 ch, dc across.
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Collar to the top of the Body once you've made all
the parts.

Heart Tag
The ch in Rnd 2 is included in the stitch count.

Rnd 1: With CC3, working into a magic ring, 9 dc. 9 sts

Rnd 2: 1 sl st, 3 htr in next st, [1 htr, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [1 dc, 1 ch, 1 dc] in next st, 1 dc, [1 dc, 1
htr] in next st, 3 htr in next st, 1 sl st. 17 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Heart Tag to the Body once you've made all the
parts.

Crochet Dog - upper paws detail Crochet Dog - lower paw detail

Paw Pads

Large - make 4
Rnd 1: With CC1, working into a magic ring, 6 dc. 6 sts
Rnd 2: 2 dc in each st around, join with sl st in beg dc. 12 sts
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Large Paw Pads to Paws once you've made all the
parts.

Small - make 16
Rnd 1: POWERED working into a magic ring, 6 dc, join with sl st in beg dc. 6 sts
With CC1,BY
Fasten off. Leave a long yarn tail for sewing the Small Paw Pads to Paws once you've made all the
parts.

Crochet Dog - base detail Crochet Dog - face detail

Making Up
Using the photographs as a guide, pin the pieces together before sewing, checking from all angles
to make sure you’re happy with the positioning, then use the long yarn tails or a length of yarn with
a yarn needle to stitch the pieces together.

There's a Photo Tutorial about sewing Amigurumi parts together seamlessly HERE.

Before you start positioning the pieces, you may find it helpful to insert a line of pins running down
the centre line of front of the Body, under its base and up the back, this will help you to position the
rest of the Body parts evenly in relation to the central line. Remove any pins that are in the way of
the pieces you are attaching as you go.

There's a Photo Tutorial about using Pin Lines to help position amigurumi parts on the website -
you can find it HERE.

Sew the Body to the Head. The back of the neck needs to sit approx in line with Rnd 21 of
the Head - it's easiest to count back 9 Rnds from the last Rnd of the Head.
Sew the stuffed Nose to the front of the Head, with its top edge sitting in line with the top of
Lulu's snout.

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Insert the Eye Balls into the Eye Lids and use the yarn tail of the Eye Lids to sew right round
its front edge to secure the Eye Balls into place.
Sew the Pupils to the Eye Balls, off set to one side.
Sew the finished Eyes to the Head, sitting approx 8 Rnds back from the top edge of the
Nose, sitting together.​

Crochet Dog - back of ear detail Crochet Dog - front of ear detail

Referring to the photos above, flatten the Ears. The more rounded long side is the outside
edge of each Ear. Sew the Ears to the Head, joining them on approx 7 Rnds back from the
back of the Eyes, spaced approx 8 sts apart. Fold the Ears forward and stitch approx 1cm
down the inside edge of each Ear to secure in the folded shape.
Sew the Collar around Lulu's neck, sitting right at the top of the Body. Sew the Heart Tag
just below the Collar at the front of the Body, using a small length of CC1. The yarn tails for
the Heart Tag can be threaded into the Body behind the Tag and tied off. There's a Photo
Tutorial showing how to secure and hide yarn tails HERE.
Sew one Large Paw Pad and four Small ones to the Paw part of each Arm and Leg. With
Paws facing forwards sew the tops of the Legs to the base of the Body, set forwards so
that Lulu can sit on her bottom, and spaced approx 2 sts apart.
Sew the tops of the Arms to the sides of the Body, set at a 45 degree angle, with the top of
the Arm join sitting approx 1 Rnd down from the bottom of the Collar.
Sew the Tail to the centre back of the Body sitting approx in line with Rnd 9 of the Body.
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 Crochet Dog - face detail

Embroidered Details
Use a length of CC1 to embroider Lulu’s mouth.
Use a length of CC4 to embroider the single stitch highlight on each Eye.

All done!

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I am happy for you to donate, gift or sell any of the my crochet chums you make if you are an
individual crafter - please credit mycrochetchums.com as the pattern designer. The patterns can
not be used for any type of mass production or manufacturing.

If you do wish to sell your my crochet chums, it is your responsibility to ensure that the finished
item complies with the relevant toy safety legislation in your country.

Please be sure to use toy grade stuffing and do not add buttons, bells, ribbons etc that could be a
danger to small children.

You may print your PDF for personal use only (not for redistribution).
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The patterns, files and all images are copyright protected and are not for commercial use. No part
of the patterns may be sold, reproduced, transmitted, broadcast, translated, used for derivative
works or published in any form.

About mycrochetchums
I started mycrochetchums at the end of 2020 to give me something to focus on during lockdown
and to make creative use of a box of Amigurumi Yarn that was an impulse purchase I was feeling
guilty about! I enjoyed it so much that when the world got back to "normal" I carried on.

I’m loving creating these cute characters and sharpening my tech skills in the process as I wrangle
with managing a website and social media.

Check out the mycrochetchums Facebook page - drop me a message there if you have any
feedback about the pattern or would like to share a picture of the end result.

You can also find me on Instagram @mycrochetchums.

If you have any questions about any of my patterns (or any other ami you may be working on)
please email me at: pia@mycrochetchums.com - I’ll do my best to help!

🧶😍
Happy Crocheting!
Pia x

​©2023PIA SIMPSON/ MYCROCHETCHUMS

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