Loxodonta & Elephas

© Anne Rutgrink

Loxodonta and her big brother Elephas are two happy elephants
made of African flowers.

Requirements:
Yarn
You can make the flowers in 1, 2 3 4 or a riot of colours.
I made mine with only 2 colours (Loxodonta is made using
variegated yarn).
How much you will need depends on your yarn weight, how tight you work, and whether you will sew the
flowers together, or use the join-as-you-go method (the latter uses more yarn).

How much you will need for the flowers is best determined by making one hexagon and weighing that after
each row. Calculate the differences between the rows to get the weight of the individual rows.
If you multiply the individual row weights by 39 you will have an estimate of your yarn requirements.
Multiply the weight of the last row by 42 to account for the joining stitches.
(Why 39? There are a total of 234 petals in all flowers combined, in the hexagon, you have made 6 of those. 234
divided by 6 is 39).

Loxodonta is made using approximately 140 grams (435 m) of acrylic sport weight yarn. She is 20 cm high,
30 cm long, and 15 cm wide. Elephas is made using approximately 400 grams (660 m) of acrylic aran weight
yarn. He is 28 cm high, 53 cm long, and 23 cm wide.

Hook
It is best to use a hook that is smaller than the size recommended on your yarn label. This is because
otherwise the holes can become too big, which causes stuffing to come through.

Stuffing
You will need lots and lots of stuffing. Elephas needed almost an entire kilo-bag of synthetic stuffing and
Loxodonta needed about half a kilo. It is near impossible to over-stuff your elephant!

Eyes
You can use buttons or safety eyes. If you want to make this for a young child, it is best to embroider eyes
on your elephant.

The flowers:
The elephants are made using hexagons, pentagons, squares and octagons.

In total, you will need:

 2 flower squares (four petals)
 1 chin square (four petals, but no centre. So you start with row 2)
 17 pentagons (five petals)
 2 ear pentagons (five petals, but with 2 extra rows on the outside)
 18 hexagons (six petals)
 3 octagons (eight petals)
43 flowers in total

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How to make a hexagon:
I will only give full instructions for the hexagons, chin square and ears, but if you can make a hexagon, the
other variations are easy.

The flower hexagons are made in 5 rows. If you are going to sew them together, you can finish each flower
completely, but if you are going to join-as-you-go, you will need to stop after row 4.

Abbreviations (US terms)

 slst: slip stitch
 ch: chain
 sc: single crochet
 dc: double crochet

Row 1:
Ch5 and slst into the first chain to make a ring. Hold the yarn end along the ch ring to weave it in whilst
working the next stitches
Ch3 (this counts as the first dc), dc1,
(ch1, dc2), repeat until you have 6 sets of 2dc’s with ch’s in between.
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
Change colours.
You should now have 6x 2dc’s and 6 chain spaces.

Row 2
Pull a loop of the new colour through the space of the slip stitch.
Tie the 2 ends together with a simple knot and fold them over the new working yarn.
Ch3 (this counts as the first dc), (dc1, ch1, dc2) in the same space,
(dc2, ch1, dc2) in the next 5 ch1 spaces,
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 6 sets of (dc2, ch1, dc2).

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Row 3
Slst to the next ch1 space.
Ch3 (this counts as the first dc), dc6 in the same space,
dc7 in the next 5 ch1 spaces,
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
Change colours.
You should now have 6 sets of dc7.

Row 4
Pull a loop of the new colour through the space of the slip stitch. Tie the 2 ends together with a simple knot
and fold them over the new working yarn.
Ch1, sc in the next 6 stitches (the last sc should fall in the 7th dc of the petal),
dc into the space between the 2x dc2 of row 2.
(sc in the next 7 stitches, dc into the space between the 2x dc2 of row 2) repeat 5x
slst into the first ch to finish the row.
You should now have 6 sets of (sc7, dc1)

Row 5
Ch3, dc4 (the last dc should fall directly above the 4th dc of row 3),
(ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 8 stitches) 5x,
ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches.
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 6 sets of (dc9, ch1)

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For the other flower shapes
In the hexagon pattern (which has 6 petals), you basically repeat all steps 6 times to make the 6 sided
shape. To make a pentagon ( 5 petals), you need to repeat all steps only 5 times. For the squares you repeat
them 4 times, and for the octagons (8 petals) you repeat them 8 times.

Chin square
The chin square is very similar to the normal square, but it doesn’t have the centre (row 1). Because of that,
it is flat.

Row 1:
Ch5 and slst into the first chain to make a ring. Hold the yarn end along the ch
ring to weave it in whilst working the next stitches.
Ch3 (this counts as the first dc), (dc1, ch1, dc2) in the ring,
(dc2, ch1, dc2) in the ring 3x,
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 4 sets of (dc2, ch1, dc2)

Row 2:
Slst to the next ch1 space,
ch3 (this counts as the first dc),
dc6 in the same space.
dc7 in the next 3 ch1 spaces,
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
Change colours.
You should now have 4 sets of (dc7)

Row 3:
Pull a loop of the new colour through the space of the slip stitch. Tie the 2
ends together with a simple knot and fold them over the new working yarn.
Ch1, sc in the next 6 stitches (the last sc should fall in the 7th dc of the petal),
dc into the space between the 2x dc2 row 2.
(sc in the next 7 stitches, dc into the space between the 2x dc2 of row 2) 3x
slst into the first ch to finish the row.
You should now have 4 sets of (sc7, dc)

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Ears
The ears have a slightly different row 5, and an added row 6 and 7.

Row 5
Ch3, dc4 (the last dc should fall directly above the 4th dc of row 3),
(ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 8 stitches) 3x,
ch1, sc in the same stitch, sc in the next 8 stitches,
ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 3 stitches.
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 4 sides with 9 dc’s and 1 side with 9 sc’s

Row 6
Ch3, dc5,
(ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 9 stitches) 2x,
ch1, dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 8 stitches (ending just before the ch1 space),
ch2, sc in the ch1 space, sc in the next 10 stitches
ch2, dc in the stitch after the ch1 space, dc in the next 3 stitches
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 2 sides with 9 dc’s (side 1 & 4), 2 sides with 10 dc’s (side 2 & 3) and 1 side with 2x ch2
and 10 sc’s (side 5).

Row 7
Ch3, dc6,
(ch1, dc in the same stitch, dc in the next 10 stitches) 2x,
ch1, dc in the next stitch, dc in the next 8 stitches (ending just before the ch2 space),
ch2, slst2 in the ch2space, slst in the next 10 stitches, slst2 in the ch2 space
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ch2, dc in the stitch after the ch2 space, dc in the next 3 stitches
slst into the 3rd chain of the first ch3 to finish the row.
You should now have 2 sides with 9 dc’s (side 1 & 4), 2 sides with 11 dc’s (side 2 & 3) and 1 side with 2x ch2
and 11 slst’s (side 5).

Joining your flowers

You can join your flowers either by sewing them together, or by using the join-as-you-go method.

Sewing
Elephas was made by sewing the flowers together. Sewing takes a smaller amount of yarn, but due to the
shapes of the flowers, there can be quite a few short ends to sew (and thus more ends to secure). If you are
going to sew, you can finish all your flowers completely.

Join-as-you-go
Joining-as-you-go (JAYG) takes more yarn, but also takes away the (sometimes annoying) short ends. If you
want to JAYG, you make your flowers from row 1-4. In row 5 you will join the flowers.

Normally, the JAYG method uses slip stitches to attach one shape to the next. I used a slightly different
version to avoid creating a ridge. Instead of making a slip stitch, I pulled the loop of the dc itself through the
stitch of the other flower (see the guide below).

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You start a join at the first corner in row 5, so you first do the ch3 and dc 4 (ending above the 4th dc of row
3:

Drop the loop from your crochet hook and insert your hook in the ch1 corner of the flower you are going to
join to:

Pick up the loop:

And pull it through:

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Dc in the same stitch to complete your corner and drop the loop from your hook again. Insert your hook in
the opposite flower in the next stitch (left of the previous one), pick up the loop, and pull it through:

Dc in the next stitch and pull that loop through the next stitch of the opposite flower. Repeat until you have
9 dc’s (and you’re once again over the 4th dc of row 3).

If you have to join only this one side, or (as in the legs) join more sides but only to one other flower, you
pull the loop of the 9th dc through the next corner of that opposite flower.
If you have to join the flower to a third one, you pull the loop through the first corner of the next flower to
make sure you don’t get holes in the corner between the 3 flowers.

Joining directions
-You begin joining a flower at the first corner in row 5. That is, after you did the last dc of the starting side,
you do not ch1 to make the corner, but you pull that loop through the corner of the side you are going to
join to.

-‘Complete’ sides, are sides with 9 dc’s. (Row 5 starts with an ‘incomplete’ with a ch2 and 4 dc’s)

-The number in brackets on the end of each line is the number of sides that flower is joined to the others.
The other sides are crocheted normally (as described in the hexagon pattern).

-You join each flower individually. (Each ‘round’ is simply a way to organise the joining process, so not a
continuous row of crochet).

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Round 1&2

Round 1:
a: pentagon. Is not joined to any other flower (just crochet row 5). (0)
b: hexagon. Is joined to 1a on 3 sides. (3)
c: pentagon. Is not joined to any other flower (just crochet row 5). (0)
d: hexagon. Is joined to 1c on 3 sides. (3)
e: octagon. Is first joined to 1b, then 1a, 1c and 1d. (4)

Round 2:
a: pentagon. Is joined first to 1e, then 1d. (2)
b: pentagon. Is joined first to 1e, then 2a. (2)
c: pentagon. Is joined first to 1e, then 2b. (2)
d: pentagon. Is joined first to 1b, then 1e and 2c. (3)

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Round 3

a: hexagon. Is joined first to 2a, then 1d. (2)

b: hexagon. Is joined first to 2b, then 2a and 3a. (3)
c: hexagon. Is joined first to 2c, then 2b and 3b. (3)
d: hexagon. Is joined first to 2d, then 2c and 3c. (3)
e. hexagon. Is joined first to 1b, then 2d and 3d. (3)
f: octagon. Is joined first to 3a, then 1c, 1a and 3e. (4)

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Round 4

a: pentagon. (outside-leg) Is not joined to any other flower (just crochet row 5). (0)
b: pentagon. (inside-leg) Is joined first to 4a on 3 sides, then to 3f. Please note that you need to leave one
side of 3f open, so there is an empty side you can join 4c to. (4)
c: hexagon. Is joined first to 3a, then 3f and 4a. (3)
d: hexagon. Is joined first to 3b, then 3a and 4c. (3)
e: pentagon. Is joined first to 3c, then 3b and 4d. (3)
f: pentagon. Is joined first to 3d, then 3c and 4e. (3)
g: hexagon. Is joined first to 3e, then 3d and 4f. (3)
h: hexagon. Is joined first to 3f, then 3e and 4g. (3)
i: pentagon. Is joined only to 4h. (1)
j: pentagon. Is joined first to 3f, and then to 4i on 3 sides. (4)

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Round 5

a: hexagon. Is joined first to 4c, then 4a and 4b. (3)

b: hexagon. Is joined first to 4d, then 4c and 5a. (3)
c: pentagon. Is joined first to 4e, then 4d and 5b. (3)
d: pentagon. Is joined first to 4g, then 4f and 5c. (3)
e: hexagon. Is joined first to 4h, then 4g and 5d. (3)
f: hexagon. Is joined first to 5a, then 4j, 4i, 4h and 5e. (5)

Chin square (S)

The chin square (S in the picture) is the square without a centre. It is joined first to 5a, then to 5b. (2)

Round 6, 7, 8

Round 6:
a: pentagon. This pentagon is joined to itself. On the 2nd complete side, after the 6th dc, you fold the side in
half and join to the 4th dc of that same row (and the 7th to the 3rd, 8th to the 2nd and the 9th to the corner)

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The 3rd complete side will be joined to the first, leaving one complete side and the starting side open. (3)
b: pentagon. Is joined on 1 side to 6a. (1)
c: pentagon. Is joined first to 6b, then 6a and again 6b. (3)

Round 7:
a: hexagon. Is joined first to 5b, then to S (chin square) and 6b. (3)
b: hexagon. Is joined first to 6c, then to S and 5e. (3)

Round 8:
a: hexagon. Is joined first to 7a, then to 6b, 6c and 7b. (4)
b: square. Is joined first to 7a, then to 8a. (2)
c: square. Is joined first to 8b, then to 8a and 7b. (3)

Stuffing
This is the point where you stuff your elephant. Starting with the back legs and working your way forward.
Remember to stuff the legs especially firmly, as they might otherwise buckle under the weight of the body.
As you’re stuffing, squeeze your elephant regularly, to make room for more stuffing (you don’t want to find
out it was ‘understuffed’ when you’re done.

If you want to use safety eyes, now is the time to put them in. Check the ‘eyes’ section at the end for the
right placement.

After stuffing the body, you can also fill the trunk. Stuffing the forehead and neck is done after (partly)
joining the neck octagon.

Neck octagon (n)

Unlike the other flowers, you start joining the neck octagon from the very first stitch (the ch3).

You start joining in the middle of 5b, then to 7a, 8b, 8a, and 7b, and pause the joining there.
At this point you can stuff the forehead and the front of the neck.
Once you’re satisfied with that, join another side, and stuff some more. Repeat until all sides are joined.
I always keep on putting more stuffing in right up until the very last stitch.
After you joined the last stitch, cut the yarn, make a small knot with the yarn end, and weave that in.

The body of your elephant is done! ^^

Now it’s time to make it look even more like an elephant.

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Ears

The ears are the pentagons with extra rows to make them bigger.

They are sewn on along the black line in the picture.

Tail

The tail is a braid that is attached from its base.

Cut 6 lengths of yarn. (I used arm lengths to be on the safe side, but you could use less).
Pull all 6 threads through under a join on your elephants bum, leaving half the length on one side, and half
on the other side Take 2 lengths from each side together for the middle braid strand (so you will have 3
braid strands of 4 lenths of yarn). (see red lines in the left picture (and please ignore the already done
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braid))
Braid the strands to the desired length, and tie it off with a piece of contrasting colour yarn (you can choose
to make a chain of ch stitches for this).

Eyes
The eyes are placed in the hexagon in front of
the ears.

And then your elephant is done!

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