@nora.

moon_

LOVE SET
PAJAMA. SHORTS
+ TOP
crochet pattern
 INTRODUCTION

Please note that this is a digital crochet pattern only,

not a finished item/product. If you want a finished item,
you can order it via my Etsy Shop.

This pattern is for personal use only.

It is FORBIDDEN TO:
Distribute, copy, and/or make any form of tutorials for
this pattern (eg. YT video or shorts, tiktok, IG reels,
etc.).
Claim this pattern as your own design.
Use my pictures or my testers’ pictures without
permission.
Reveal/share stitches and techniques used in this
pattern.
Change/modify this design.
Rename the design.
Mass produce the finished item.

But remember that I would be happy

to see your version of Love Set
Pajama on Instagram, so feel free to
tag me (@nora.moon_)

@nora.moon_ 2024
ABOUT THE PATTERN

This pattern is:

Good for Advanced Beginners

Written in US Terminology
Using measurements in centimeters (cm)

This pattern was inspired by the cozy elegance of

homewear and chic style. I wanted to recreate
something similar to what you might see in a popular
brand that Kim K is known for :) but with a small pin-up
touch, which you can easily add using embroidery.

Speaking of the embroidery: it’s completely optional

since not everyone enjoys working with a needle.
However, I’ve included instructions and a diagram to
show you how to easily create a heart using crochet
thread.

@nora.moon_ 2024
 BEFORE STARTING

Let’s prepare the materials you will need:

Size 3-4 yarn (light, medium) (≈300 g)
Yarn for embroidery ≈25 g (size 3-4)
Hook number 3-5 (depends on your yarn
choice)
Elastic thread
Tapestry needle
Scissors
Stitch markers
Measuring tape

Abbreviations:
Ch - chain
YO - yarn over
Sc - single crochet
YOSLST - yarn over slip stitch
Hdc - half double crochet
SlSt - slip stitch
St - stitch
Dec - decrease
Fo - fasten off

@nora.moon_ 2024
 BEFORE START
Let’s practise the stitch:

Drop Stitch HDC: Insert hook into a stitch one row

below the current working row, instead of the top loops,
and complete a HDC.

Note: Keep your tension loose when working Drop

Stitches, so the fabric doesn’t pucker.

Row 1 Row 2

@nora.moon_ 2024
 MEASUREMENTS

A - Waist

B - Ribbing width

C - Half the height of

the front of the shorts

D - Height of shorts

E - Underbust

F - Height of the top

@nora.moon_ 2024
 LET’S START: SHORTS
1. Make a chain equal to your measurement B. I made 11
chains. Start by creating the ribbing using alternating rows of
YO SlSt and SlSt. Chain 1 (Ch 1) at the end of each row. We
will be working in the back loop only (BLO) throughout.

Row 1: Work YO SlSt (not a Hdc) into the next loop from the
hook. Yarn over (YO), insert the hook into the back loop of the
stitch, and pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your
hook. Pull the first loop through the second and third loops.
Repeat this process until the end of the row. Chain 1 (Ch 1), turn.

Row2: Work SlSt BLO across the row. Insert the hook into the
back loop only of each stitch, pull up a loop, and pull through the
loop on your hook. Repeat until the end of the row. Chain 1 (Ch
1), turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
 Repeat step 1 until the ribbing reaches your measurement
A (waist). The ribbing should fit comfortably around your
waist in a slightly stretched condition.

2. When you reach your measurement A, make sure to end on a

SlSt row. Connect the two sides of the ribbing with SlSt: Place the
ribbing with the right sides facing each other. Connect both ends by
working SlSt into the back loops of the stitches. Do not fasten off.

3. Ch 1, and with the right side facing you, work sc across the
ribbing: Try to make 1 sc per ribbing row. When you reach the very
first stitch, make a SlSt in the first chain to close the round.

@nora.moon_ 2024
4. Ch 2 (counts as a stitch), turn. Work hdc into each stitch
across. When you reach the end, make a SlSt into the first stitch
to close the round. Ch 2, turn.

5. Now we’re going to work Drop Stitch HDC across:

Work HDC in the first stitch (normal HDC).

Work a Drop Stitch HDC into the post of the HDC one row below
(the corresponding stitch in the previous row, not the current top
loops).

To do this: Yarn over, insert the hook in the stitch of the HDC
below, pull up a loop (keep it loose), yarn over, and pull through
all three loops on the hook.

Continue alternating between HDC in the current row and Drop

Stitch HDC in the row below across the row. SlSt into the first
stitch of the row, ch 2, turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
6. If you ended the previous row with a normal HDC, start the new
row with a Drop Stitch HDC.
If you ended the previous row with a Drop Stitch HDC, start the
new row with a normal HDC.

Continue the row by alternating between HDC in the current row

and Drop Stitch HDC in the row below. Your normal HDC should be
placed on top of the Drop Stitch HDC from the previous row, and
vice versa. When you reach the end of the row, make a SlSt into
the first stitch, Ch 2, and turn.

7. Repeat steps 5–6 until you reach your measurement C (half the
height of the front of the shorts). I made 12 rows. Don’t forget to
turn your work after each row.

Next, take your stitch markers and place them in the side points
(indicated by the pink dots). These will mark the stitches where
you’ll make increases. We will now add increases in these marked
stitches every 2 rows.

@nora.moon_ 2024
8. Increase row. Work your HDC & Drop Stitch HDC row as usual.
When you reach the marked stitch: Make 2 HDC or 2 Drop Stitch
HDC into the marked stitch (depending on your pattern).

Continue the row with HDC & Drop Stitch HDC, alternating as
usual. Replace a stitch marker. Repeat the same process for the
second marked stitch. When you finish the row, make a SlSt into
the first stitch, Ch 2, and turn.

9. No inc row: work HDC & Drop Stitch HDC as usual. When you
reach the increased stitches from the previous row: If the increase
stitches were HDC, work HDC & Drop Stitch HDC into the next
two stitches. If the increase stitches were Drop Stitch HDC, work
HDC into each of the next two stitches.

Replace the stitch marker into the second stitch of the pair you just
worked. Repeat the same process for the second stitch marker. At
the end of the row, make a SlSt into the first stitch, Ch 2, and turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
10. Increase row: When you reach the stitch marker, if the two
stitches from the previous row (step 9) were Drop Stitch HDC, work
HDC and Drop Stitch HDC into the same stitch. If the two stitches
from the previous row were normal HDC, work Drop Stitch HDC
and HDC into the same stitch.

This approach helps stabilize the alternating pattern established in

Step 8 while still allowing for increases. Replace your stitch marker
into the second stitch of the increase you just made. Continue
working HDC & Drop Stitch HDC as usual until you reach the next
stitch marker. Repeat the same increase process for the second
marker.

11. Repeat steps 8-10 until you reach your measurement D (front
width of the shorts). You can finish at any row of the incr repetition.
Don’t forget you try your shorts on.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Now we are going to create the Crotch Panel for the shorts. Fold
your shorts as they would naturally lay on you, and place a stitch
marker in the center of the front panel to mark the midpoint. Watch
a video on how to make steps 12-20 here.

12. When you reach your measurement D, chain 8 and turn. Work
HDC into the third chain from the hook. Continue making HDC
across the remaining chains, so you will have a total of 6 HDC.
Turn your work.

13. Work HDC into the same

stitch where you started the
chain. Then continue
alternating between Drop
Stitch HDC and HDC until you
reach the stitch marker. Your
last stitch must be made into
the stitch with the marker.

14. When you reach the stitch marker, remove it. Repeat Step 12.
Then continue alternating between Drop Stitch HDC and HDC
until you reach the previous HDC chain. Be careful, you must
work in the same row you worked in the step 13 (get back again
on that row).

@nora.moon_ 2024
15. When you reach the HDC chain from the step 12, work HDCs
all the way up, then ch 1.

16. Make 3 sc into the top of the row, then ch 1. Work HDC across
the row down (6 HDCs).

17. Work HDC into the same stitch where you started the chain.
Then continue to the second leg by alternating between Drop Stitch
HDC and HDC until you reach the next HDC row (another crotch
part).

18. When you reach the other crotch part, work HDCs all the way
up, then ch 1. Turn.

19. Work HDC across the row down. Then continue alternating
between Drop Stitch HDC and HDC until you reach the other
crotch part.

@nora.moon_ 2024
20. When you reach the next crotch part, work HDC all the way up,
then ch 1. Work 6 sc across the top, then ch 1 and work HDC all
the way down.

Repeat the steps in this order: 18-19-18 (18, then 19, then 18
again). You should have 5 rows in each Crotch part.

21. When you reach the other HDC rows, skip 1 stitch and SlSt into
the next stitch. FO.

At this point, you can connect the two Crotch parts with stitch
markers and check if the shorts sit comfortably on you. If you feel
like you need more rows on top of each Crotch part to make the
crotch a bit longer, you can attach your yarn to the front Crotch part
and work as many additional sc rows as needed.

22.With the right sides facing each other, connect both Crotch
parts with a SlSt, joining through both loops.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Note: If you want to leave the coverage of your shorts as it is, you
can skip Step 23 and go straight to Step 24.

23. Ch2. Make 5 rows of Drop Stitch HDC and HDC.

Note: If you want your shorts to have more coverage, you can add
as many rows as you like in Step 23.

24. With the right side facing you, Ch 6 and start making the ribbing
using YOSlSt + SlSt rows. We will be working in the back loop only
(BLO).

Row 1. Work SlSt BLO across the row. When you reach the end of
the row, make 2 SlSt into the next two stitches. Turn.

Row 2. Skip the 2 SlSt stitches you made in the previous row and
work YOSlSt BLO across the row: Yarn over (YO), insert the hook
into the back loop of the stitch, and pull up a loop. You should have
three loops on your hook. Pull through all three loops. Repeat this
until the end of the row, Ch 1, and turn.

Repeat this step all around, and make sure you end on a YOSlSt
row. Then, with the right sides of the ribbing facing each other,
connect the two parts with SlSt across. FO.

Repeat steps 23-24 with the other shorts part. FO.

@nora.moon_ 2024
 FINAL TOUCHES
Attach your yarn into the middle of the back top part of the shorts,
ch 1. Work sc across the shorts, then SlSt into the very first stitch.
At this point, you can add elastic thread if needed.

Your shorts are done!

@nora.moon_ 2024
 LET’S START: TOP
We are going to start the top from the bottom ribbing.

1. Make ch6. You can make more chains if you want your ribbing
be much wider. Turn.

2. Start by creating the ribbing using alternating rows of YO SlSt

and SlSt. Chain 1 (Ch 1) at the end of each row. We will be
working in the back loop only (BLO) throughout. See photos in
step 1 in SHORTS part.

Row 1: Work YO SlSt into the next loop from the hook. Yarn
over (YO), insert the hook into the back loop of the stitch, and
pull up a loop. You should have three loops on your hook. Yarn
over and pull through all three loops. Repeat this process until
the end of the row. Chain 1 (Ch 1), turn.
Row2: Work SlSt BLO across the row. Insert the hook into the
back loop only of each stitch, pull up a loop, and pull through the
loop on your hook. Repeat until the end of the row. Chain 1 (Ch
1), turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Repeat step 1 until the ribbing reaches your measurement E
(Underbust). The ribbing should fit comfortably around your under
bust in a slightly stretched condition.

3. When you reach your

measurement E, make sure to
end on a YOSlSt row. Connect
the two sides of the ribbing with
SlSt: Place the ribbing with the
right sides facing each other.
Connect both ends by working
SlSt into the back loops of the
stitches. Do not fasten off (FO).

4. Ch 1, and with the right side facing you, work sc across the
ribbing: Try to make 1 sc per ribbing row. When you reach the
very first stitch, make a SlSt in the first chain to close the round.

5. Ch 2, turn. Work hdc into each stitch across. When you reach
the end, make a SlSt into the first stitch to close the round. Ch 2,
turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
6. Now we’re going to work Drop Stitch HDC across:

Work HDC in the first stitch (normal HDC).

Work a Drop Stitch HDC into the post of the HDC one row below
(the corresponding stitch in the previous row, not the current top
loops).
To do this: Yarn over, insert the hook around the post of the
stitch below, pull up a loop (keep it loose), yarn over, and pull
through all three loops on the hook.

Repeat alternating between HDC in the current row and Drop

Stitch HDC in the row below across the row. SlSt into the first
stitch of the row, ch 2, turn.

7. If you ended the previous row with a normal HDC, start the
new row with a Drop Stitch HDC. If you ended the previous row
with a Drop Stitch HDC, start the new row with a normal HDC.
Continue the row by alternating between HDC in the current row
and Drop Stitch HDC in the row below. Your normal HDC should
be placed on top of the Drop Stitch HDC from the previous row,
and vice versa. When you reach the end of the row, make a SlSt
into the first stitch, Ch 2, and turn.

Repeat steps 6-7 until you cover half of your breast. I made 7
rows. Don’t make this part too wide because we are going to
make 3-4 rows more + top ribbing. Don’t forget to turn your
work after each row. FO once you’ve reached your halfway mark.

@nora.moon_ 2024
8. Now, try on the top and place two stitch markers at the points
where your straps will be (marked by pink dots). I recommend
skipping about 7–8 cm from the edges of the top. Next, turn the
top so the back side is facing you and place two more stitch
markers in the corresponding positions on the back side of the
top.

We are now going to make a decrease row to create extra

coverage for the bust and space for the straps. You will need to
make decreases every second row. Begin with a decrease on
the back side of the top.
9. Decrease row: Attach you yarn at the left stitch marker. Ch 1.
Work Drop Stitch HDC&HDC together. Then work Drop Stitch
HDC and HDC as usual, until you have 2 stitches (including stitch
marker) left. Work Drop Stitch HDC&HDC together, Ch 2, turn.
10. No decrease row: Work Drop Stitch HDC and HDC as
usual. Ch 2, turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Repeat rows 9–10 until you are satisfied with the width of the top
(measurement F). FO.

11. Repeat steps 9-10 for the front side of the top. Ensure you
make the same number of rows as you did for the back side.
Keep in mind that the top will gain an additional 5 cm in width due
to the ribbing. Do not FO.

12. Make sc across all the top. SlSt into the very first stitch. You
must end on the left top corner of the front panel.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Let’s make a strap for the left side of the top from the front
side.

13. With the right side facing you, ch 6 (you can make more
chains if you want your straps to be wider).

14. Work SlSt all the way down the chain, then make 2 SlSt into
the next two stitches on the top. Turn.

15. Work YOSlSt across the row, ch 1, turn.

@nora.moon_ 2024
16. Repeat steps 14–15 until you reach the marked black point
on the back part of the top. At this point, stop making 2 SlSt, but
continue to ch 1 at the end of each row. Repeat this step until you
are satisfied with your strap length in a bit stretched condition.
Connect the strap to its starting point by placing the two parts
with their right sides facing each other and joining them using
SlSt. You must end on a YOSlSt row. Do not FO

17. Make sc across all the

strap (inner side), FO.

18. Attach your yarn to the top corner of the back part of the top
and repeat steps 13–17 for the right strap. However, do not FO in
step 17. You must end on the front side of the top.

@nora.moon_ 2024
Now we are going to make ribbing on the front side of the top.

19. SlSt 2 into the next two stitches, turn.

20. Make 4 YoSlSt into the 4 chs from the strap. Ch1, turn.
21. Work SlSt all the way down, then slst 2 into the next two
stitches of the top. Turn.

Repeat steps 20-21 until you reach the left strap. You must end
on YOSlSt row. With the right side facing each other, connect
ribbing to a left strap with slst. FO.

@nora.moon_ 2024
 FINAL TOUCHES

Attach your yarn to the outer edge of the strap and work sc evenly
across. SlSt into the very first stitch to join. FO. Repeat this for the
other strap.
If desired, you can add elastic thread to the front and/or back parts
of the top to make it fit more comfortably.

Done!

@nora.moon_ 2024
 EMBROIDERY

Yarn Recommendation: Use size 4 yarn for the heart

embroidery. This size makes the process easier and ensures
the stitches hold their shape effectively.

To create a heart embroidery, follow these steps:

1. Find the Starting Points. Identify three main holes:

The lowest dot will be the bottom point of your heart.
The two highest dots will form the top points of your heart,
creating an upside-down triangle.

2. Create the Rays:

For the 7cm heart I used 2m thread. You’ll need to make
13–15 rays (depending on the thickness of your thread).
Begin with the shortest ray, either on the far left or far right,
depending on your preference for working direction (left-to-
right or right-to-left).
Insert your needle into the top of the ray and make a knot.
Pull the needle back through following the arrow on the
pattern.
Work from top to bottom on the pattern, essentially
creating another heart on the reverse side.

@nora.moon_ 2024
3. Connect the Longest Rays:
Insert all the longest rays into the lowest hole (the bottom
of the triangle).
The top two dots of the triangle will serve as the highest
points of your heart.

4. Shape the Heart:

Once the rays are complete, start shaping the heart by
following the thinnest arrows on the pattern to define the
outline.
Begin and end in the same hole. When you are done with
the shape, you can add more rays where you see the
gaps.

@nora.moon_ 2024
5. Finish Off:
Secure your work by making a knot on the reverse side
and finish off (FO).

Wrong side

Done!

@nora.moon_ 2024
 THANK YOU FOR
CHOOSING LOVE SET
PAJAMA!
Congratulations on
finishing your pajama I 💕
would love to see your
version of it so feel free to
tag me on Instagram
(@nora.moon_). Also, you
can send me a question
about the pattern in case
you will have so. Thank
you again and don’t forget
to shine bright✨