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This pattern was created for personal

use. Please do not resell this pattern. If
you make these tops to sell or promote,
please credit me in your images. THANK
YOU for supporting a small, lady-owned
business!

THE KHALEESI TOP

A pattern by Spirit and Thread Crochet
Materials:
4mm crochet hook

5.5mm crochet hook

Tapestry needle

Scissors

Size 4, worsted weight yarn, about 500-800 yards depending on size.

Choose your size:

Tops generally fit the size shirt you regularly wear.

X-Small: A cup

Small: B cup, 32C and below

Medium: C and D cup, 32DD and below

Large: DD cup, DDD cup and above

If you have more questions about sizing feel free to send me an email at spirit.and.thread.crochet@gmail.com.

When there are different stitch counts per size, they will be written as XS (S, M, L).

Gauge:
I HIGHLY RECOMMEND checking your gauge – I’ve been told I crochet tight!

15HDC by 14 rows is a 4-inch square, size 4mm hook.

Stitches:
SC - single crochet

HDC - half double crochet

DC - double crochet

CH – Chain

Picot

DC front post only

DC2TOG – double crochet two together

* * - indicates repeat
Bralette:

Your bralette cups will be made starting with chain

stitches, then adding rows of HDC stitches, then adding
rows of DC stitches. The number of rows for each type
of stitch depends on the size of your top.

Size XSmall: Chain 8, 6 rows HDC, 2 rows DC

Size Small: Chain 8, 6 rows HDC, 3 rows DC

Size Medium: Chain 8, 6 rows HDC, 4 rows DC

Size Large: Chain 9, 6 rows HDC, 6 rows DC

Here are more specific instructions for each set of rows

on your bralette cups:

Row 1: With a 4mm hook, chain the appropriate

number of stitches for your size top.

Row 2: CH1 and turn (this does not count as your first
HDC). HDC across. You should have the number of
HDC’s you started with in your chain. In the final chain,
HDC 4 additional HDC for a total of 5 HDC. Stitches
should wrap around the chain so you can start
crocheting along the other side of your chain.

HDC in each remaining chain stitch so you have an equal

number of stitches on each side of the chain.

Row 3: CH1 and turn. HDC in every stitch. When you get
to the top of your rounded edge, add 5 HDC’s into the
3rd HDC from the previous row. Finish the row with 1
HDC in each stitch.

Repeat Row 3 until you have the appropriate number of

HDC rows for your size top.

Add your DC rows in the same way as the HDC rows –

CH2 (counts as first DC), DC in each stitch until you get
to the top of your rounded edge. 5DC into the 3rd stitch
from the previous row. DC in remaining stitches.
Continue this until you have the appropriate number of
regular DC rows for your size top.

Fasten off.

SIZING CHECK: Hold your cup up to you – does it fit

well? If not, consider changing sizes.
Repeat these steps to make a second cup, but this time
don’t fasten off.

Waistband:

CH1 and turn your work 90 degrees. SC across bottom

of this cup – 2SC in every DC row and 1SC in every HDC
row.

Put 2 SC in the final DC row at the end of your bottom

edge. SC to connect to the bottom edge of your other
cup (connect on the end you fastened off at – a string
should still be hanging there. This will ensure the cups
are both facing the same direction).

SC along the second cup in the same way until the final
DC. Your stitch count at the end of this row will be 40
(48, 56, 72).

Row 2: CH2 and turn (counts as first HDC). HDC across.

Row 3: CH1 and turn. SC across.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 for 1 (2, 2, 3) more times each.

SIZING OPTION: Repeat rows 2 and 3 as many times as

you need to reach your desired waist length. Adding
more rows will affect instructions on waistband loops,
but you can add more loops as needed.

Row 6 (8, 8, 10): CH3 (counts as first DC, CH1). SK1, DC.
*CH1, SK1, DC* across. DC in the last two stitches.

Row 7 (9, 9, 11): CH1 and turn. SC across.

Row 8 (10, 10, 12): Find instructions for your size below:

XSmall: CH1 and turn. SC in first stitch. CH3,

SK2, SC in next 5. CH8, SK6, SC in next 4. CH8,
SK4, SC in next 4. CH8, SK6, SC in next 5. CH3,
SK2, SC in last stitch.

Small: CH1 and turn. SC in first 2 stitches. CH3,

SK2, SC in next 6. CH8, SK6, SC in next 6. CH8,
SK4, SC in next 6. CH8, SK6, SC in next 6. CH3,
SK2, SC in next 2.

Medium: CH1 and turn. SC in first stitch. CH3,

SK2, SC in next 4. CH8, SK5, SC in next 4. CH8,
SK5, SC in next 4. CH6, SK4, SC in next 4. CH8,
SK5, SC in next 5. CH8, SK5, SC in next 4. CH3,
SK2, SC in last stitch.

Large: CH1 and turn. SC in first stitch. CH3, SK2,

SC in next 4. *CH8, SK5, SC in next 4* 3 times.
CH8, SK4, SC in next 4. *CH8, SK5, SC in next 4*
3 times. CH3, SK2, SC in last.

(size XSmall)

Row 9 (11, 11, 13): CH2 and turn (counts as first DC).

FOR SIZE SMALL ONLY: DC in second SC.

5DC in next CH3 space.

*(DC6, CH2, DC6) in next chain space* until there is only
a CH3 space remaining. 5DC in CH3 space. DC in final 1
(2, 1, 1) stitch(es).
Now we are adding sides to our waistband.

Row 1: CH1 and turn your work 90 degrees. SC into

each row, 1SC per SC/HDC rows and 2SC per DC row.
You should have a total of 11 (13 ,13, 15) when you
reach the base of your bralette cup.

SC into first 4 (5, 6, 7) rows of your bralette cup.

Row 2: CH2 and turn (counts as first DC). In next 2

stitches, DC2TOG. DC across until you reach the stitch
above your (DC CH1 SK1) row. Instead of DC’ing above
this row, CH1 SK1. DC until the end of the row.
Row 3: CH2 and turn (counts as first DC). DC until you
reach the stitch above your (DC CH1 SK1) row. Instead
of DC’ing above this row, CH1 SK1. DC until you have 3
stitches left. In next 2 stitches, DC2TOG. DC in last
stitch.

Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have 5 (6, 7, 9) total DC

rows, or 6 (7, 8, 10) total rows in your side waistband.

SIZING OPTION: Continue adding rows to your

waistband WITHOUT decreasing where it meets your
bralette cup. This will lengthen your waistband. Or
remove rows as needed to reach desired length.

(Xsmall has 5 rows of DC)

Row 7 (8, 9, 11): CH1 and turn. SC across.

Row 8, (9, 10, 12): CH1 and turn. SC into first stitch.
CH4, SK1, SC in next 3 (4, 4, 4). CH4, SK1, SC in next 2 (4,
3, 4). CH4, SK1, SC in final stitch. Fasten off.

Slip stitch to connect to the other bottom corner and

repeat these steps to add the second side of the
waistband. Fasten off.

SIZING OPTION: For additional support/less cleavage, SC

your two tops together at the base (See yellow circle).

Sleeves:

The stitch used on the sleeves is adapted from P. 126

from The Complete Book of Crochet Stitch Designs by
Linda P. Schapper. I highly recommend this book!

Chain 100 (100, 110, 130). SC to connect to the

uppermost stitch on your right bralette cup (see blue
circle).
Chain 20 (20, 22, 25). SC to connect to uppermost stitch
on your left bralette cup. Chain 100 (100, 110, 130).
Fasten off.

SIZING OPTION: Add/remove chains between the cups

so it sits flat and comfortably without bunching.

Slip stitch to connect 43 (43, 54, 65) stitches away from

where you connected at your blue circle (see red circle).
The remaining stitches will be used to tie to the other
side with a knot.
Row 1: SC in the next 44 (44, 55, 66) stitches. Your final
SC will be the first available SC on your bralette cup.

Row 2: CH1 and turn. SC in first stitch. CH3, SK2, SC in

next 5. *CH8, SK6, SC in next 5* and repeat until there
are 3 stitches left. CH 3, SK2, SC in last stitch.
Row 3: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *(6DC, picot,
6DC) in CH8 space* across until only a CH3 space
remains. 5DC in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.

+
Row 4: CH5 and turn. DC in 3rd and 4th DC in your 5DC
bunch. DC2TOG. DC in next 2 DC. *CH8. SK6 DC. DC in
next 2 DC. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next 2 DC.*
Repeat across.
When you have 3 DC remaining, CH3, SK2, DC in final
stitch.

Row 5: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *6DC picot

6DC) in CH8 space* until only a CH3 space remains. 5DC
in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.

You should now have 2 “full” shell rows. A “full” shell

row includes the CH8 row and the accompanying shell
above it.
NOW, WE ARE SWITCHING HOOK SIZE! Change to a size
5.5 crochet hook.

Repeat rows 4 and 5 with a 5.5 mm hook until you have

a total of 9 full shell rows (or 19 total rows).

(sleeve rows in process!)

Row 20: CH5 and turn. DC in 3rd and 4th DC in your 5DC
bunch. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next 2 DC. *CH10. SK
6 DC. DC in next 2 DC. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next
2 DC.* Repeat across. When you have 3 DC remaining,
CH3, SK2, DC in final stitch.

Row 21: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *8DC picot
8DC) in CH10 space* until only a CH3 space remains.
5DC in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.

Row 22: CH5 and turn. DC in 3rd and 4th DC in your 5DC
bunch. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next 2 DC. *CH10. SK
10 DC. DC in next 2 DC. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next
2 DC.* Repeat across. When you have 3 DC remaining,
CH3, SK2, DC in final stitch.

Row 23: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *8DC picot
8DC) in CH10 space* until only a CH3 space remains.
5DC in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.

Repeat rows 22 and 23 until you have a total of 15 (15,

16, 17) full shell rows, or until the sleeve covers the
length of your arm minus 1 inch.

Next row: CH5 and turn. DC in 3rd and 4th DC in your

5DC bunch. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next 2 DC.
*CH8. SK10 DC. DC in next 2 DC. DC2TOG in next 2 DC.
DC in next 2 DC.* Repeat across. When you have 3 DC
remaining, CH3, SK2, DC in final stitch.

Next row: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *6DC picot
6DC) in CH8 space* until only a CH3 space remains. 5DC
in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.

NOW, WE ARE SWITCHING HOOK SIZE! Change to a size

4 crochet hook.

Next row: CH5 and turn. DC in 3rd and 4th DC in your

5DC bunch. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC in next 2 DC.
*CH8. SK6 DC. DC in next 2 DC. DC2TOG in next 2 DC. DC
in next 2 DC.* Repeat across. When you have 3 DC
remaining, CH3, SK2, DC in final stitch.

Next row: CH2 and turn. 5DC in CH3 space. *6DC picot
6DC) in CH8 space* until only a CH3 space remains. 5DC
in CH3 space. DC in final stitch.
The length of your sleeve is done! Now we are adding
the wrist cuff.

Row 1: CH3. Slip stitch into the first chain. Slip stitch
into the other side of your wrist cuff (make sure your
sleeve isn’t twisted and you’re working on the right side
when the two sides are joined together at the wrist).
*CH 7 (7, 6, 5). SC to connect to next picot* repeat until
slip stitching into the first picot to create a loop.

SIZING OPTION: If you want to decrease the width of

the wrist cuffs, decrease the number of chains between
each picot.

Row 2: Slip stitch into your chain space. CH2 (counts as

first DC). DC 6 (6, 5, 4) more times into the same chain
space. *DC into next SC. DC 7 (7, 6, 5) times into chain
space* across. Slip stitch into first DC.
Row 3: CH2 (counts as first DC). *DC front post only in
next DC. DC in next DC* across. Your final DC may be a
normal DC or a DC front post only depending on your
top size – either is fine! Slip stitch to connect to first DC.

Repeat row 3 two more times, or until desired wrist

cuff thickness is reached.

Row 6: CH1. SC across. Slip stitch into first SC. Fasten

off.
Now we will make the second sleeve!

Row 1: Slip stitch to connect one stitch below where

the sleeve chain meets the second bralette cup (see
yellow circle). SC in the direction of the yellow arrow.

Repeat previous steps to make a second sleeve.

Finishing touches:

Now we will create a border around the entire outside

of your top.

Lay your top with the correct side facing you. Slip stitch
to connect in the right corner of your right sleeve, in the
green circle.

SC along the top edge of your sleeve.

SC along the top of your bralette and across the top of
the other sleeve.

Once you reach the end yof your sleeve, CH1 and turn
90 degrees to SC along the side of the sleeve. Add 1 SC
per SC row and 2 per DC row.
Once you get to the wrist cuff, SC along the other side
of the sleeve.

SC along the side of your bralette cup.

SC along the top edge of the waistband, 1 SC per SC row
and 2 SC per DC row.

5SC in each waistband loop.

SC along the bottom edge, 2 SC per DC row in the
waistband edge and one SC per stitch in the final row of
your waistband.

In the CH2 space of each shell, SC picot SC.

Continue to SC along second side.

SC along the side of the bralette cup and along the

second sleeve.
Once you make your way fully around, slip stitch into
your first SC. Fasten off.

Now we are adding a few rows in the triangle between

bralette cups.

Row 1: Lay your top correct side facing you. Slip stitch
to connect into the uppermost cup stitch in the top
right corner (see yellow circle). SC in the direction of
the yellow arrow.
SC in the bottom two DC rows where your two cups
meet. SC up the second side. Once you get to the top
left corner, skip the final stitch on the first side and the
first stitch on the second side (in other words, skip the
two corner stitches).

Skip the final stitch on the third edge (again decreasing

at the corner). Once you make your way around, slip
stitch into your first SC.

Row 2: CH1 and flip your work. SC in the triangle again,

skipping the 2 corner stitches in each corner. Slip stitch
into your first SC.
Row 3: CH1 and flip your work. SC in the triangle again,
skipping the 2 corner stitches in each corner. Slip stitch
into your first SC. Fasten off.

SIZING OPTION: You can add more rows here or add

fewer rows depending on the level of support and
coverage you want. I recommend at least 1 row.

Now let’s add straps! I use two strands of yarn and a

5.5mm hook for a thicker strap. Slip stitch to connect on
your top edge close to where your sleeve begins (see
red circle) and chain your desired strap length. I
recommend around 18 inches. Fasten off and repeat on
the other side.

Chain a waistband tie to your desired length. I

recommend 32-48 inches.

Sew in all your ends.

YOU’RE DONE! Enjoy your fabulous new top!