This is a pattern by Molly Tooher-Rudd (@made_by.

molly) and
therefore cannot be shared or published. It is for individual use, so
please do not use to sell garments made from this pattern! I hope
you enjoy making this top.

Difficulty level: advanced beginner-intermediate

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Hook size: 3.5mm
Yarn: DK, Thinner yarn allows for better precision in this project, try to avoid using aran, this is thicker (I use paintbox yarns cotton dk, you can
use an aran weight yarn but it will make the top bigger!).

Stitches and Abbreviations used (UK Terms):

Ch – Chain Tr3tog- Treble three together
Dc – double crochet Htr – Half treble
Tr – Treble crochet (eg. tr 7 means tr in next 7 st) Slst – Slip stitch
2tr – Two treble in the same stitch (This is an increase) St - Stitch
Tr2tog – Treble two together (This is a decrease)

Notes:
This pattern is a guide, so it does not use exact stitch numbers, this allows it to be as flexible as possible in fitting all arm sizes! The best way to
make sure you are doing it right is to keep trying the top on when you are working the sleeves. I’ve made the mistake a few times of not doing
this and have wound up with a top that doesn’t properly fit! Shaping the sleeves to your arm is about decreasing and increasing in the right
places, and this pattern is designed to teach you how to do that!

If you have any questions, feel free to drop me a message on etsy, or dm me on Instagram @made_by.molly 💖

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To Begin:
You are working on from the sweetheart top pattern. The process of adding sleeves is the same regardless of the size you have made.

The last step of the sweetheart top is to work out the sides and add loops for a back tie. However, for the long-sleeve version, stop before
creating the loops, we are making the sides longer in this pattern. To do this, follow the pattern below:

1. To each edge you will need to work two rows extra. For the first additional, row, in the first 10 stitches, work a dc instead of a tr. In the
next 10 stitches, work a htr. Finish the row in tr. When you get to the top ch 3 and turn work. For this seconds row, in the first 10
stitches work a tr, the next 10 work a htr, and then finish the row in dc. Fasten off.

Repeat on both sides.

2. Attach yarn to the top right, and work a dc into every stitch along the top edge. Fasten off.

Dc along the top. When working along the sides, work

one dc into the base and into the middle of each tr, as
shown. Continue working until you reach the middle
stitch.

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Now it is time to add the sleeves.

3. Line the top up on your body, so that the heart is in the centre and the sides come about 7cm under your armpit - it should be in a
similar position to in the picture. Place a insert your hook into the stitch where you would like the sleeve to begin and attach your yarn
(as a guide, I normally attach the yarn in line with the edge of the second to last round of the heart, 18/20 st from the centre but this is
up to you!)

Attach your yarn to

this stitch
Line up on your Mark where you
body want your sleeve
to begin

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 4. Ch up from the edge. The chain needs to be long enough to go over your shoulder and attach with slip stitch into the top back corner.
Once you think it is long enough, test it out to make sure the fit is comfortably. Remember, you don’t want the top to be right up under
your armpit. For reference, my chain in the example is 60ch long- keep a note of how many you do so you can repeat on the other side.

Ch up from the Slst into the top

Try on for size before
edge– like you are back corner
you continue!!
making a strap

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Now we can begin to shape the armpit:

5. Slst into the next stitch along. Ch 3, and then work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain away from where you attached your long chain. This is
a bit fiddly and might feel weird to do, it’s just to get into the right position for working the armpit shape.

Slst into the 3rd

Slst into the next ch up.
stitch along. Ch 3 up.

Remember, this is just a guide, so if you feel like less/more decreases are appropriate for you in this next section then that is ok! You are
creating the armpit shape, and so we want to decrease underneath the arm so the round gets smaller each time, and in the right places, until it
fits comfortably around the top of your arm. Have a look at the pictures before you start to get an idea of what you are trying to achieve.

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 6. Continue working along the bottom edge of the arm hole, repeat *tr2tog, tr 3* until you reach the last stitch before the chain is begins.
Now tr3tog, working in this last stitch, at the base of the chain, and in the first chain.
The point of the 3trtog in the arm space of the stitch is to pull the corners in together to make the round smooth into a circle as we
work down the sleeve. Into the next ch, work a htr.

Work along the bottom

edge, with a decrease
every few stitches

Htr into the next ch

on the strap.

Tr3tog in the corner

where the ch strap
begins.

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 7. Now work a tr in every chain around to the other side. Until you reach the last ch. Tr3tog, working the stitch into the top of your ch 3
from the previous round, and the next stitch along (should be the bottom edge).

Work a tr into every

ch around.

Tr3tog in the corner, into Work along the

the last ch, the top of ch 3 bottom edge again,
and the first stitch on the decreasing where
bottom edge. appropriate.

8. After the tr3tog, you should now be working back along the bottom edge of the round. Tr2tog, tr 3, then repeat *tr2tog, tr* until you
have 5 stitches left (if you don’t have room to finish a repeat, that is fine!) In the last 5 stitches of the edge, work tr2tog, tr2tog, and
then tr3tog. Work your tr3tog into the last stitch on the bottom edge, the tr3tog of the previous round, and the next stitch along.

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9. Similarly to step 7, work a tr in every chain around to the other side, however, as you work across this section, decrease with a tr2tog
approximately a quarter of the way through, in the middle, and a third of the way through, so we begin to make the arm hole slightly
smaller. Once you reach the other side, work a tr3tog in the same way as you did in the other corner, working into the last stitch of the
section, the tr3tog of the round before, and the first stitch of the bottom edge.

10. Tr2tog, tr 3, then repeat *tr2tog, tr* until you have 5 stitches left (if you don’t have room to finish a repeat, that is fine!) In the last 5
stitches, work tr2tog, tr2tog, and then tr3tog. Work your tr3tog into the last stitch on the bottom edge, the tr3tog of the previous
round, and the next stitch along.

11. Like in step 7, Tr in every stitch round to the other side, remembering to work a tr3tog in the
corner, in the same way as you did before.

At this point, try the armpit hole for size, if it is a good fit then you can start
working it out in rounds, if it is too small, add more decreases to the next round,
where it seems right to do so. If it is too small, you may need to unravel the
previous round, and use less decreasing stitches along the bottom edge,
however, always use the tr3tog when shaping the armpit section.

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 12. Begin working round, no longer working the tr3tog in the corners. Occasionally,
where needed, include tr2tog decreases evenly over the round. I’ve made the
mistake before of using too many decreases, and the sleeve gets too small, so
make sure you keep trying it on for size as you go, just in case! In the next 2/3
rounds, remember to work a few decreases into the centre of the armpit.

13. Keep working in a round, decreasing if necessary at even intervals, until the
sleeve reaches a third of the way down your upper arm.

Reminder again to keep trying it for size, you don’t want to wait till the end to realise that it doesn’t fit properly!

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 14. Once you are ready to change colours, over the next 5 stitches work a htr, htr, dc, dc, slst instead of trebles, to finish with the upper
part of the sleeve. Fasten off.

Ch3 to begin
the next round.

Work a htr, htr, dc,

Attach the next
dc, slst to close the
colour and ch 3. Close the round
round.
with a slst at
the top of ch 3.

15. Attach your next colour where you fastened off. Ch 3. This counts
as 1tr. As before, continue working in a round, with one tr in each
stitch, occasionally including a decrease if you need the sleeve to
get smaller as you go down your arm (Keep trying it on to see if it
fits well!). When you finish the round, work a slip stitch into the 3rd
chain, to close the round. Then ch up 3, and repeat!

Keep working in rounds like this, changing colour wherever you fancy,
until the sleeve reaches a third of the way down your forearm. At this Example without
flared sleeves – lots of
decreases are needed
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point you begin to increase. However, if you’d prefer not to have flared sleeves, you can continue as before, decreasing in rounds until you
reach your wrist.

16. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr 6, 2tr*
until you reach the end of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round.

17. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr 5, 2tr*
until you reach the end of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round. 2tr in the same
stitch – this is
how we
18. In the next round, work a tr into every stitch, with no increase. increase.

19. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr
5, 2tr* until you reach the end of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round.

20. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr
4, 2tr* until you reach the end of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round.

21. For the next round, work a tr into every stitch, with no increase.

Your sleeve should

increase out like this!

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 22. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr 5, 2tr* until you reach the end
of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round.

23. Ch 3 to begin your round, and work a tr in the base of the ch. Then for the rest of the round, repeat *tr 3, 2tr* until you reach the end
of the round. Work a slip stitch into the 3rd chain, to close the round.

At this point, the flare section of the sleeve should be wide enough! Now continue to work in rounds of one tr in each stich until the
sleeve is the desired length! I normally finish once it reaches my wrist, but you can make it however long you like!
(If you’d like it bigger, continue to increase as before in further rounds).

Once the sleeve is long enough, fasten off and tie in your loose ends! Now it’s time to go back to the start and
create the other sleeve. When working on the second sleeve, it is useful to line it up with the first sleeve, to check
the measurements match up. Its ok if they aren’t perfectly the same, a couple of stitches different here and there
won’t be noticed once you have it on!

24. When both sleeves are completed, the final step is to create loops for the fastening at the back. To do this,
attach your yarn in the bottom corner of the back f your top. Ch 4, dc into next 7 st, *ch 3, dc in next 7st*.
Repeat between ** until your loops a reach to just below the top – see on picture. Close the final loop with a
dc, fasten off and tie in loose ends, Then repeat on the other side. To fasten, make a chain long enough to
criss-cross down your back and tie up at the bottom – I chained about 500!

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 Create loops up
the edge of the
Work loops up the
top.
side until just below
the top. This may
need some trial and
Attach to the bottom
error to find what
corner of your top.
works for you!

Your top should now be ready to wear! Tag me in any photos of Instagram, I’d love to see what you have created!

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