SEWING THREADS
BASIC REQUIREMENTS
SEWABILITY – Ability of the thread to produce the seam
with minimum no. of thread breakages and least damage to
the thread and the fabric during sewing operation
THREAD PERFORMANCE IN SEAM – Ability of the
sewing thread to produce the desired functional serviceability
in a desired seam.
Seam Efficiency Index (SEI) = Seam Tensile Strength X 100
_________________________
Fabric Tensile strength
CHARACTERISTICS OF SEWING
THREAD
Tensile Strength / Breaking strength
Initial modulus
Abrasion resistance
Frictional properties
Resistance to high temperature
Evenness with negligible faults
Elongation
Shrinkage
Balanced structure
TYPES OF SEWING THREADS
SPUN THREADS
CORE SPUN THREADS
CONTINOUS FILAMENT THREADS
EMBROIDERY THREADS
TECHNICAL THREADS
SPUN THREADS
1) COTTON THREADS
a) soft cotton threads
b) Glazed cotton thread
c) Gassed thread
d) Mercerized cotton thread
2) LINEN THREAD
3) SILK THREAD
4) SPUN SYNTHETIC –FIBRE THREADS
5) SPUN BLENDED SEWING THREADS
CORE SPUN THREADS
Polyester / Cotton core spun threads
Synthetic filament as CORE
Cotton or Synthetic fibre as SHEATH
High strength of polyester as core
Heat compatibility and softer feel of
cotton/synthetic fibre in cover.
Requires setting and stabilizing process
Requires special dyeing techniques to obtain
same shade in core and sheath
In P/C combination, the thread must be dyed
twice.
CONTINUOUS FILAMENT THREADS
MONO-FILAMENT THREADS
MULTI-FILAMENT THREADS
a) Lubricated threads
b) Bonded threads
c) Braided threads
TEXTURED THREADS
a) False twist textured filament threads
b) Air textured filament threads
c) Air-jet intermingled filament threads
EMBROIDERY THREADS
Mainly required for decorative purposes
Colour and Luster are two main
requirements for embroidery threads
Mostly made from Mercerized cotton, Silk,
Viscose rayon, Polyester fibre/filament
yarns
TECHNICAL THREADS
Specifically developed for Technical /
Industrial uses
Perform satisfactorily in adverse climatic,
industrial conditions and heavy duty
applications
Generally made from Aramids, Glass,
ceramics, etc..
Flow chart manufacturing spun sewing thread
Store of single yarn
Wet Doubling yarn
Soft package unwinding
Reeling yarn
Package Dyeing
Hank dyeing to the require shade
Rewinding
Singing (or) Gassing
Steaming (Heat setting)
Waxing & polishing
Article no. of assignment & packing
Precision Winding
THREAD SIZE
Expressed in “TICKET NUMBER”
1) Metric Ticket Number System:
- For Synthetics and Core spun threads
2) Cotton Ticket Number System:
- For Cotton sewing threads
Nm = No. of 1000 mtrs in 1kg (or)
No. of 1 mtrs in 1 gm
E.g:
Nm – 120/2 = Resultant Count = 60
Metric Ticket Number = 3 x Nm = 3 x 60 = 180
5. TICKET NUMBERING SYETEM:
The ticket number is the “number assigned to a
sewing thread to designate its approximate linear
density, in other way it denotes the thread sizes.
Ticket number is determined on the basis of
finished thread.
Various finishing process like Scouring, Bleaching,
Dyeing, Stretching, Mercerizing, Bonding,
Polishing, Lubricating significantly change the
apparent thread size of the unfinished thread.
The count of the finished sewing thread does not
depend only on its single input yarn count and ply
but also on amount and type of color/finishes
applied on it.
INDIAN STANDARDS FOR DETERMINING
THREAD TICKET NUMBERS:
For cotton sewing threads
It relates to 3 ply construction as a base: the
number denotes the single yarn count (Ne). For
eg, Tkt. No. 60, means 3/60s or 2/2/80s or
3/2/120s of which resultant count is 20s
For synthetic sewing threads:
It is also based on a 3 ply metric
single yarn count (Nm) e.g. Nm 70/3
thread, ticketed as 70 and Nm 120/4
is ticketed as 90.
THREAD FINISHES
Normal Finishes:
1) Soft
2) Gassed
3) Glazed
4) Mercerized
5) bonded
THREAD FINISHES
SPECIALITY FINISHES:
1) LUBRICATING FINISHES
2) WATER RESISTENT FINISHES
3) MILDEW RESISTENT FINISHES
(Cotton)
4) FIRE RESISTENT FINISHES
5) SOIL RELEASE FINISHES
THREAD PACKAGES
1) SPOOLS – 100 to 500 m
2) COPS – 1000 to 2500 m
3) CONES – 5000 m
4) VICONES
5) COCOONS – For embroidery machines
6) PRE-WOUND PACKAGES
7) LARGE PACKAGES – 20000 m
