Level-2 ;Term-I
Course Code: AE-201
Course Title- Apparel production-I
Course Teacher: Md. Kamrul Hassan
Chowdhury
1 1
Syllabus Overview
Part A:
Sizing system and range, Pattern Making,
Marker Making, Fabric Spreading.
Part B:
Fabric Cutting, Trimmings and Accessories,
Interlining, Sewing Thread, Label and
Motif.
Book Ref: Garments and Technology by
Prof. M A Kashem
1 2
Fabric Cutting
Product Garments Components
Pattern Making Marker Making
Fabric Spreading (layer of fabric)
Fabric Cutting.
Definition of Fabric Cutting:
Accurate separation of the garments
components from the layer of fabric as
per pattern by the help of Marker and
some cutting instruments.
Cutting is very sensitive part of production.
1 3
Why cutting operation so sensitive?
## Cutting of AOP
## Cutting of Stripe Fabric
## Bundle making after cutting
## Accurate cutting for testing issues
1 4
Objectives of Fabric Cutting:
Hopefully already discussed……..
1 5
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
1. Precession of cut
2. Clean Edge
3. Unfused Edge
4. Support of the lay
5. Consistent Cutting
1 6
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
1. Precession of cut:
Cutting accordingly as per pattern shapes.
Depends on below:
(a) Cutting Method
(b) Marker planning
(c) Condition of knife
(d) Skillness of operator
(e) Attention to work
1 7
1 8
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
2. Clean Edge:
Cutting Edge should be clean; Free from
Fraying (yarn come out). Depends on
sharpness of Knife.
3. Unfused Edge:
Need to ensure unfused edge; So we need
to prevent fused edge actually. So firstly
we need to know how fused edge occurs:
1 9
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
During cutting of thermoplastic fabric (like
polyester, polyamide) fused edge occurs:
Friction between knife and fabric during
cutting heat generation in knife fabric
melted at edges joining of melted edges
occurred when cooled joining edge is
called fused edge.
Problems of fused edge:
Separation difficulty; Outcome issue;
Comfort issue.
1 10
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
How to prevent fused edge:
(a) Lubrication in knife
(b) Air coolant to knife
(c) Anti fusion paper
(d) Reducing lay height
(e) Reducing cutting speed
1 11
Requirements of Fabric Cutting:
4. Support of the lay:
Need to ensure support of the lay.
5. Consistent Cutting:
Total cutting should be uniform.
1 12
Methods of Fabric Cutting:
Manual Method:
1. Hand Operated scissor
Semi-automatic method:
1. Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine
2. Band Knife Fabric Cutting Machine
3. Round Knife Fabric Cutting Machine
4. Die Cutting
5. Notcher
6. Drill
Fully-automatic method:
1. Knife Cutting
2. Cutting by water jet
3. Laser Cutting
4. Plasma Torch Cutting 1 13
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Sketch
Main Parts
Machine Description
Feature
Working Principle
Advantage
Limitation
1 14
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
1 15
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
1 16
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Main Parts / Machine Description):
Base Plate
Motor
Handle
Knife
Knife guard
Grinding Wheel
Stand
Roller Wheel
1 17
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
1 18
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Feature:
1) Knife Specification:
Height- 10-33 cm
Width- 1.5-3 cm
Thickness- 0.5 mm
2) Can cut efficiently lay height of 70% of its
knife height.
3) Weight- 12-15 kg
4) Machine RPM- 3000-4000
5) Stroke of the Knife is 2.5 to 4.5 cm
1 19
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Working Principle:
Require below 2 motions to operate:
1) Reciprocating motion
2) Manual motion
Advantage: Discussion
Limitations:
1) Risk of Accident
2) Blade Deflection
1 20
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Why Blade Deflection Occurs?
Precaution to avoid blade deflection:
1) Reducing motor weight
2) Reducing lay height
3) Skilled operator
Precaution to avoid accident: Discussion
1 21
Straight Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Factors of motor power requirement:
1) Lay height
2) Construction of Fabric
3) The stroke of the knife
Types of Blade edge used:
1 22
Band Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
1 23
Band Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
1 24
Band Knife Fabric Cutting Machine:
Sketch
Main Parts / Machine Description
Feature
Working Principle:
1) Rotary Motion
2) Manual Motion
Advantage
Limitation:
1) Work load higher
2) Fabric Wastage higher
1 25
Difference between Straight Knife and Band Knife
Fabric Cutting Machine:
No Straight Knife FCM Band Knife FCM
1 Knife Straight Band and Endless
2 Fabric Stationary Machine Moveable Machine Stationary
Fabric Moveable
3 Suitable for bigger parts smaller
4 Knife motion reciprocating rotary
5 Direct process Indirect
6 Fabric wastage lower Higher
7 Work load lower Higher
8 High speed, Cheap and common Low speed, Expensive
and limited use
9 Risk of accident high Low
26
Others semi-automatic cutting m/c:
Round Knife
Die Cutting
Notcher
Drill
Self Study
1 27
Others semi-automatic cutting m/c:
1 28
Others semi-automatic cutting m/c:
1 29
Sleeve joining at arm hole
1 30
Fully automatic cutting m/c:
1) Knife Cutting
2) Laser Cutting
3) Cutting by Water Jet
4) Plasma Torch Cutting
Self Study
1 31
Sewing Thread
1) Types of Sewing Thread
2) Thread Sizing
3) Thread Packages
4) Properties of sewing thread
1 32
Types of Sewing Thread
Sewing threads are classified in the following 3 ways:
1. Fiber types
2. Thread Construction
3. Thread Finishing
1. Fiber types:
a) From Natural fibers:
i) Linen thread- once used widely but now limited use.
Replaced by synthetic thread.
ii) Silk thread- Strong and lustrous. limited use due to
high price.
iii) Cotton thread: Soft cotton; Mercerized cotton;
Glazed cotton.
iv) Viscose thread: Low strength but lustrous, popular for
embroidery than sewing.
1 33
Types of Sewing Thread
b) From Synthetic fibers:
i) Polyester thread: Strong, good elastic and cheap.
ii) Nylon thread: High extensibility. For knitwear and swim
wear.
iii) Aramide thread: For flame resistant garments. Very costly.
iv) PTFE thread: Flame resistant, Melting resistant and have
chemical reaction prevention property.
2) Thread Construction:
a) Monofilament
b) Multi-filament
c) Textured thread
d) Core spun thread
Self Study
3) Thread Finishing: Self study
1 34
Properties of Sewing Thread
1. Tensile Strength: The minimum load which is
required to break the thread is termed as the
tensile strength of that thread. It is expressed by
gm, kg, or lbs. It is used to determine the
difference in strength of sewing threads of the
same size or count or thickness.
2. Tenacity: The ratio of tensile strength and count
of sewing thread is called tenacity. Tensile
strength depends on count but tenacity is not
dependent on count. Because it expresses the
strength of unit thickness. It is used to determine
the difference in strength of sewing threads of the
different size or count or thickness. Tenacity is
denoted by gm per tex or gm per denier.
3. Loop Strength: Thread has minimum strength in
its loop position and the minimum load needed
to break the loop is termed as loop strength.
1 35
Properties of Sewing Thread
4. Loop Strength ratio: The ratio of sewing thread tenacity and loop
strength is termed as loop strength ratio. It should be noted here that,
the maximum value of the loop strength ratio maybe 2. The Loop
strength ratio is used to find out the efficiency of sewing thread in the
stitch.
5. Minimum Loop Strength: The loop strength of the weaker loop among
successive loops is termed as minimum loop strength. It is used to
determine the performance of sewing thread in the stitch.
6. Elongation at break: Elongation at break is the extension of sewing
thread at breaking point. It is expressed in percentage. It is too much
important for the extensibility of seam.
7. Stretch / Strain curve: The stress-strain curve is the drawing curve of
elongation against the increasing tenacity of the sewing thread. It is
important to compare the values of two threads.
1 36
Properties of Sewing Thread
8. Elasticity: Elasticity is the property using which the
sewing thread returns to its original position when
the deforming force is released. It should be noted
here that when sewing thread back to its original
position after the extension is called Elastic. But if
don’t back to its original position is called plastic.
9. Shrinkage: The dimensional change of sewing thread
after washing with water is called shrinkage.
Shrinkage is expressed as a percentage. Due to the
shrinkage of threads, seam pucker occurs.
10. Abrasion resistance: Abrasion resistance is the
frictional resistance of one sewing thread to another.
It has great importance to determine the sewing
performance of thread.
37
Properties of Sewing Thread
11. Color fastness: Colorfastness is a very
important factor for the sewing thread.
The color durability of sewing thread
against sunlight and wash must be
checked before using.
1 38
Thread Packages
1. Spool
2. Cop
3. Cone
4. Vicone
5. Container
6. Large Package
7. Cocoon
8. Pre wound bobbin
Self Study
1 39
1 40
Thread Sizing
The relation between the length and the
weight of thread is expressed in number.
This number is called the number or
count or size of thread.
Expressed mainly in 2 ways:
1. Direct system- length fixed.
2. Indirect system- weight fixed.
1 41
Thread Sizing
Metric ticket number system:
Metric count: The number of hanks/units of 1000m
yarn of 1 kg weight or the number of units of 1m
yarn of 1 gm weight of yarn is called Nm or
Metric count.
Example: 60/1; 60/2; 80/4.
Metric ticket number= Resultant count x 3
Resultant count= Length of single thread / No. of
single thread in the ply
So for 60/2 it will be 90
For 80/4 it will be 60.
For 60/3 it will be 60.
1 42
Thread Sizing
Cotton count: The number of hanks/units of
840 yds yarn of 1 pound weight of yarn is
called Ne or Cotton count.
Ne= 0.59 x Nm
tex: The gram weight of 1000m of thread is
tex. i.e. 60 tex.
Conversion of Ne to Nm, Ne to tex, Nm to
tex. (Self study)
1 43
THANK YOU
1 44
