Unit 3 - Manufacturing Technology

1. Types of Fabric Packages

Fabric packages are the different forms in which fabrics are supplied to garment manufacturers.
Some common types include:

1. Rolls: Long lengths of fabric rolled around a cardboard tube, commonly used for woven
and knit fabrics.
2. Bales: Bulk quantity of fabric, packed tightly in square or rectangular form, often used
for industrial or mass production.
3. Plaits or Folded Fabric: Fabric is folded in half lengthwise and stacked in layers; used
for delicate fabrics.
4. Hank: Loosely wound or coiled fabric, typically used for yarn or lace.
5. Beam: Fabric wound on large beams, commonly used in production systems like
weaving or knitting.
6. Mini-bolts: Smaller rolls used for specialty fabrics or retail sales.
7. Festoons: Looped fabric used for delicate fabrics to avoid creasing.
8. Flat-folded: Fabric is folded flat, used for small yardage or sample fabrics.
9. Carton-packed fabrics: Folded or rolled fabrics packed in cartons, especially used for
shipping.
10. Tubular forms: Used mainly for knitted fabrics, supplied without side seams.

2. Spreading

Spreading is the process of laying out fabric in superimposed layers in preparation for cutting.
Key points include:

1. Objective: Ensure fabric layers are even and flat to achieve precise cutting.
2. Manual Spreading: Involves spreading fabric manually, suitable for small-scale
production.
3. Mechanical Spreading: Uses machines, ideal for large-scale production, ensuring speed
and accuracy.
4. Spreading Equipment: Includes tables, spreader machines, clamps, and end-cutting
devices.
5. Fabric Alignment: Fabrics must be laid perfectly aligned to avoid defects during cutting.
6. Direction of Spreading: Can be face-to-face, face-up, or face-down, depending on fabric
type and cutting needs.
7. Tension Control: Ensures no unnecessary stretching or distortion of fabric.
8. Number of Plies: Refers to the number of fabric layers spread, which depends on fabric
thickness and cutting capacity.
9. Splice Marks: Used where fabric ends are joined, ensuring continuous spreading.
10. Environmental Control: Temperature and humidity should be monitored to prevent
fabric shrinkage or expansion.
3. Marker Preparation and Its Planning

Marker planning refers to arranging pattern pieces on fabric as efficiently as possible to reduce
fabric waste. Key points include:

1. Purpose: Maximizes fabric usage and minimizes wastage.

2. Manual vs Computerized Marker Making: Computer software often provides more
accuracy than manual methods.
3. Marker Length: Depends on the number of garment pieces and fabric width.
4. Marker Efficiency: Calculated by comparing fabric area used vs. total fabric area
available.
5. Pattern Arrangement: Based on fabric grain, direction, and design.
6. Types of Markers: Closed or open markers, used based on fabric type and design.
7. Fabric Defects: Markers should be planned to avoid visible defects in cut pieces.
8. Marker Duplication: Used for repetitive patterns or designs to save time.
9. Nesting: A technique for fitting smaller pattern pieces into gaps between larger pieces to
increase efficiency.
10. Cutting Order Plan: Deciding the sequence of cutting to optimize workflow and fabric
usage.

4. Types and Functions of Cutting Machine

Cutting machines are used to cut fabric into garment parts. Common types include:

1. Straight Knife Cutter: Commonly used, versatile, and capable of cutting through
multiple fabric layers.
2. Round Knife Cutter: Suitable for cutting straight and simple curves, but not complex
patterns.
3. Band Knife Cutter: Used for high precision cutting, especially for complex shapes and
intricate patterns.
4. Die Cutting Machine: Works like a cookie cutter, used for mass production of small,
repetitive shapes.
5. Laser Cutting Machine: High precision cutting using lasers, often used for delicate
fabrics or intricate designs.
6. Water Jet Cutting Machine: Uses high-pressure water for cutting, ideal for delicate or
technical fabrics.
7. Automatic Cutting Machines: Computer-controlled systems that can handle complex
shapes and large volumes.
8. Notchers: Small machines used to cut notches into the fabric for reference points in
sewing.
9. Drills: Used to make small holes in fabric for pattern markings.
10. Ultrasonic Cutting: Uses high-frequency sound waves for cutting synthetic fabrics
without fraying.

5. Preparation for Sewing Processes

Before sewing, several preparatory steps are taken to ensure smooth production:

1. Pattern Checking: Ensuring all pattern pieces are accurate and match the garment
design.
2. Trimming: Cutting fabric pieces to the correct size and shape.
3. Marking: Marking key points on the fabric like darts, pleats, and hems.
4. Edge Finishing: Preventing fabric edges from fraying by overlocking or using bias
binding.
5. Fusing: Attaching interlining to fabric pieces for reinforcement.
6. Thread Selection: Choosing appropriate threads for the fabric type and sewing machine.
7. Machine Setup: Ensuring the right sewing machines are set up with the correct tension,
needle type, and presser foot.
8. Bundling: Grouping cut pieces according to the production order for organized assembly.
9. Seam Testing: Conducting sample stitching to check the durability and appearance of
seams.
10. Workplace Organization: Arranging tools, machines, and workstations efficiently for a
smooth workflow.

6. Sewing Technology: Feed Systems

The feed system moves fabric through the machine while stitching. Common feed types are:

1. Drop Feed: The most common system where the feed dogs below the fabric move it
forward.
2. Needle Feed: Both the needle and the feed dogs move the fabric, reducing shifting layers.
3. Walking Foot Feed: Both presser foot and feed dogs move, ideal for heavy or multiple
layers of fabric.
4. Puller Feed: Mechanical rollers pull fabric through the machine, used for heavy or
difficult fabrics.
5. Compound Feed: Combines needle, feed dogs, and presser foot movement, ensuring
precision.
6. Differential Feed: Uses two sets of feed dogs to control fabric stretching, commonly
used in knit fabrics.
7. Top and Bottom Feed: Feed dogs move fabric from below, and a top mechanism moves
the upper layers, useful for sewing stretchy materials.
8. Unison Feed: The needle, feed dogs, and presser foot work in unison to feed the fabric,
ensuring alignment.
9. Roller Feed: A roller helps feed delicate or slippery fabrics smoothly.
10. Intermittent Feed: Stops and starts the feeding process at intervals, used in embroidery
machines for precision.

7. Types of Sewing Machinery and Equipment

Various sewing machines and equipment are used in the garment industry, including:

1. Lockstitch Machine: The most common type, used for general stitching.
 2. Chainstitch Machine: Uses a looped stitch and is faster than lockstitch machines.
3. Overlock Machine (Serger): Used for finishing edges and seams, preventing fabric from
fraying.
4. Coverstitch Machine: Specialized for hemming and finishing seams on stretch fabrics
like knits.
5. Bartack Machine: Reinforces areas of stress, like pocket corners or buttonholes.
6. Zigzag Sewing Machine: Creates zigzag stitches, commonly used in stretch fabrics or
decorative stitching.
7. Blind Stitch Machine: Used for hemming without visible stitches on the fabric's right
side.
8. Buttonhole Machine: Specifically designed to create buttonholes in garments.
9. Button Sewing Machine: Automates the process of sewing buttons onto garments.
10. Embroidery Machine: Designed for creating decorative stitching and embroidery
patterns.

8. Parts of Needles and Their Function

A sewing needle consists of several key parts, each serving a specific function:

1. Shank: The upper, thicker part that fits into the sewing machine.
2. Shaft: The middle part that guides the needle through the fabric.
3. Eye: The hole near the pointed end through which the thread passes.
4. Point: The tip of the needle that pierces the fabric.
5. Groove: A long indentation on the front of the needle that allows the thread to lie flat and
prevents tension.
6. Scarf: A small notch above the eye that helps form the stitch by allowing the hook to
grab the thread loop.
7. Blade: The portion between the shank and point that enters the fabric and holds the
needle's strength.
8. Tip: Determines the needle's function, with ballpoint tips used for knits and sharp tips for
woven fabrics.
9. Butt: The very top of the shank, which fits into the needle holder.
10. Finishing/Coating: Some needles have special coatings (e.g., titanium) to increase
durability and reduce friction.

9. Properties of Sewing Threads

Sewing threads vary in terms of material and properties, influencing their performance:

1. Strength: Threads need to be strong enough to withstand the tension during sewing and
garment use.
2. Elasticity: Some threads are stretchable, making them ideal for knits or fabrics that need
flexibility.
3. Durability: Threads must resist abrasion, heat, and wear over time.
4. Luster: Glossy threads provide a shiny finish, while matte threads offer a subtle look.
5. Colorfastness: The ability of the thread color to resist fading from washing or sunlight.
 6. Thread Size: Measured by weight or thickness, and chosen based on the fabric and type
of stitch required.
7. Twist: The number of twists per inch affects the strength and smoothness of the thread.
8. Smoothness: Smooth threads run through the needle and fabric more easily, reducing
friction.
9. Resistance to Chemicals: Some threads are treated to resist damage from chemicals used
in washing or dry-cleaning.
10. Resistance to UV light: Outdoor fabrics often use threads that are resistant to ultraviolet
light, preventing weakening.

10. Ticket Number

The ticket number of a sewing thread refers to its thickness and strength. Key points include:

1. Definition: It indicates the weight or thickness of the thread.

2. Measurement: Different systems (e.g., Tex, Denier) are used to measure thread
thickness.
3. Tex System: Measures thread thickness based on the weight of 1,000 meters of thread in
grams.
4. Denier System: Measures the weight of 9,000 meters of thread in grams.
5. Relation to Strength: A higher ticket number usually means a thicker, stronger thread.
6. Matching Thread to Fabric: Thicker fabrics require higher ticket numbers, while
delicate fabrics need finer threads.
7. Thread Type Consideration: Different thread types (cotton, polyester, silk) can have
varying ticket numbers.
8. Standardization: International standard systems help maintain uniformity across the
textile industry.
9. Effect on Stitch Quality: The right ticket number ensures balanced tension and smooth
stitches.
10. Identification: Threads are often labeled with their ticket number for easy selection in
production.

11. Federal Classification of Seams and Stitches

The federal system classifies seams and stitches based on structure and use. Key points include:

1. Stitch Classifications: Defined by the number and placement of threads (e.g., lockstitch,
chainstitch).
2. 100 Class (Chainstitch): Formed by a single thread, often used for temporary stitching.
3. 200 Class (Hand Stitches): Imitates hand-sewn stitches, used for fine garments.
4. 300 Class (Lockstitch): Formed by two threads interlocking, providing strong seams.
5. 400 Class (Multithread Chainstitch): Used for stretch seams, commonly seen in
knitwear.
6. 500 Class (Overedge Stitches): Used to prevent fabric edges from fraying, often in
sergers.
7. 600 Class (Coverstitch): Multi-thread stitches used for hems and decorative purposes in
stretch garments.
8. Seam Types: Federal classification also defines seam types, like plain seams, lapped
seams, and bound seams.
9. Seam Durability: Seams are tested for strength, durability, and appearance.
10. Specialized Seams: Certain seams are used for specific purposes, like waterproof seams
for outerwear.