Knitting
1. Introduction to Knitting
Knitting is a method of fabric formation where yarns are looped together to create a textile
structure. Unlike woven fabrics, which have interlaced warp and weft threads, knitted fabrics
are made of intermeshed loops.
Key Terms in Knitting:
● Course – A horizontal row of loops.
● Wale – A vertical column of loops.
● Loop (Stitch) – The smallest unit of a knitted fabric.
● Gauge – Number of needles per inch, which determines fabric fineness.
● Stitch Density – The total number of loops per square unit of fabric.
https://youtu.be/qTBKyeRcBc4?si=eKCx7GJdmMopDB2c
2. Types of Knitting
A. Weft Knitting
● Yarn moves horizontally, forming loops across the fabric width.
● More stretchable, used in casual wear like T-shirts and sweaters.
● Types: Single Jersey, Rib, Interlock.
B. Warp Knitting
● Yarn moves vertically, forming loops along the fabric length.
● More stable and durable, used in lingerie, nets, and upholstery.
● Types: Tricot, Raschel.
https://youtu.be/U1bk4ZI0Qvc?si=rTRyUXYgRNF4WZfn
3. Knitting Machine Elements
1. Needles – Form loops (Types: Latch, Bearded, Compound).
2. Sinkers – Hold fabric while forming loops (used in single jersey machines).
3. Cams – Control needle movement to create stitches.
4. Cylinder & Dial – Hold and guide needles (circular machines).
5. Feeder – Supplies yarn to needles.
https://textilefabricviews.blogspot.com/2017/09/basic-knitting-elements.html
4. Knitting Cycle (How a Stitch is Formed)
Clearing – The needle moves up, removing the old loop.
Feeding – New yarn is placed in the needle hook.
Loop Formation – The new yarn passes through the old loop.
Knock-over – The old loop is pushed down, forming a new stitch.
https://youtu.be/zTBZ8Xw6JI8?si=1p2mydd93BSBOwoM
(This cycle repeats continuously to form fabric.)
5. Weft Knitting Structures
Single Jersey Fabric
● Made with one set of needles.
● Soft, stretchable, but edges curl.
● Uses: T-shirts, innerwear.
https://youtu.be/XJ4Kn_xyv8A?si=8Ut27RYSOENFlia0
Rib Fabric
● Made with two sets of needles.
● Highly stretchable, no curling.
● Uses: Cuffs, collars, body-hugging clothing.
https://youtu.be/oK1I7dve0C4?si=kaUYBHUogA_WxdMQ
Interlock Fabric
● Two layers of fabric interlocked.
● Thick, smooth, stable, does not curl.
● Uses: Premium sportswear, outerwear.
https://youtu.be/DP71mEAwb0U?si=-D23z1cK29E1mGgU
6. Jacquard Knitting Machine
A Jacquard knitting machine allows the production of complex patterns and designs
using individual needle selection.
Features:
✔ Enables multi-color designs and motifs.
✔ Uses advanced mechanical or electronic needle selection.
✔ Used for fashion, upholstery, and decorative textiles.
https://youtu.be/8sqCQTw3U-M?si=a-0pedC57lrGlDMn
7. Warp Knitting Principles
● Loops are formed vertically in a zig-zag pattern.
● Requires multiple yarns fed simultaneously.
● Produces stronger, more stable fabric than weft knitting.
● Uses: Lingerie, nets, upholstery.
https://youtu.be/rnPjSk4ULoY?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/_PIttLqmxVA?si=Zlu3KJ2gkcLuKoWY
8. Warp Knitting Machines
Tricot Knitting Machine
✔ Uses bearded or compound needles.
✔ Produces soft, smooth, lightweight fabrics.
✔ Uses: Lingerie, swimwear, sportswear.
https://youtube.com/shorts/yKlFHMpbZqo?si=0CXysKBg-LQbCtvQ
Raschel Knitting Machine
✔ Uses latch needles and multiple guide bars.
✔ Produces lace, net, and textured fabrics.
✔ Uses: Lace, mesh fabrics, curtains.
https://youtu.be/dfJ3bnOsoCE?feature=shared
https://youtu.be/GWFJKaissvc?feature=shared
9. Comparison of Weft vs. Warp Knitting
10. Knitted vs. Woven Fabric
11. Handling Precautions for Knitted Fabrics
Knitted fabrics are elastic and delicate, requiring special handling during cutting and
sewing.
✔ Relax fabric for 24 hours before cutting to prevent shrinkage.
✔ Spread fabric without tension to avoid distortion.
✔ Check loop direction to avoid design errors.
✔ Use manual spreading to minimize tension.
✔ Add fusing before cutting if the fabric is limp.
12. Types of Knitting Machines
A. Weft Knitting Machines
1. Flat Bed Knitting Machine – Used for sweaters, collars, cuffs.
https://youtube.com/shorts/fMhdermDTlI?si=-01f8HMQ7Z0qZGoZ
2. Circular Knitting Machine – Used for seamless T-shirts, hosiery.
https://youtu.be/yRXuKFy89Mg?si=DvQ27UgH3za5jKJ1
B. Warp Knitting Machines
1. Tricot Machine – Used for lingerie, sportswear.
2. Raschel Machine – Used for lace, nets, curtains.
13. Types of Knitted Stitches
1. Knit Stitch – The basic stitch in knitted fabric.
2. Tuck Stitch – Creates textured effects by holding loops together.
3. Miss (Float) Stitch – Used in Jacquard designs to create patterns.
https://youtu.be/mWB8JReKTuY?si=SHLysa-FgktMyjV7
14. Knitted Garment Production Methods
Fully Cut:
Fabric is first knitted, then cut and sewn like woven garments.
Most common method but causes fabric waste.
Example: T-shirts.
Stitch, Shape, Cut:
Fabric panels are first stitched, then shaped and cut.
Helps prevent distortion during sewing.
Example: Sweaters.
Fully Fashioned:
Fabric is shaped directly on the knitting machine, reducing waste.
Used in high-end knitwear for better fit.
Example: Luxury sweaters.
Integral Knitting:
Entire garment is knitted in one piece without seams.
Produces body-hugging garments like swimwear.
Most advanced and expensive method
15. Quality Control in Knitting
Quality control ensures:
✔ Correct measurements and stitch consistency.
✔ No loop defects like missed stitches.
✔ Proper shrinkage control to prevent size issues.
Conclusion
● Weft knitting is best for soft, stretchable fabrics like T-shirts and hosiery.
● Warp knitting is best for strong, structured fabrics like lingerie and nets.
● Jacquard knitting allows decorative, intricate patterns.
● Understanding knitting machine parts, fabric structures, and handling methods
is essential for fashion designers and textile manufacturers.
