KNITTINGACKNOWLEDGEMENT I ike to acknowledge the following on the threshold of my achievement and successful completion of project entitled “KNITTING” I sincerely acknowledge with deep sense of gratitude and encouragement received from my project Mentor Ms. NEHA, Lecturer, TEXTILES whose guidance helped me to accomplish the objective of the project for guiding me throughout the project and providing with valuable time & information whenever needed by me. I would like to thank the members of JD FASHION INSTITUTE for their cooperation. In addition, to the entire respondent who have spared their valuable time in answering my questions & queries. Last but not the least, would like to thank my family & friends who would have been great support throughout my work. NIKITA GARGWHAT IS KNITTING ? Knitting is a method by which thread or yarn may be turned into cloth or other fine crafis. It isa fabrication process ie, intermeshing series of loops of one or more yams or from a set of yarns. Knitted fabric consists of consecutive rows of loops, called stitches. As each row progresses, a new loop is pulled through an existing loop. The active stitches are held on a needle until another loop can be passed through them. This process eventually results in a final product, a garment Knitting may be done by hand or by machine. Different yarns and knitting needles may be used to achieve different end products by giving the final piece a different color, texture, weight, and/or integrity. Using needles of varying sharpness and thickness as well as diferent varieties of yam can also change the effect. Knitted fabrics is the third major class of fabric, after woven and nonwoven fabrics.WEAVING V/S KNITTING Like weaving, knitting is a technique for producing a two-dimensional fabric made from a one- dimensional yarn or thread. In weaving, threads are always straight, running parallel either lengthwise (warp threads) or crosswise (weft threads). By contrast, the yam in knitted fabrics follows a meandering path {a course), forming symmetric loops (also called bights) symmetrically above and below the mean path of the yarn. These meandering loops can be stretched easily in different directions, which gives. knitting much more elasticity than woven fabrics; depending on the yarn and knitting pattern, knitted garments can stretch as much as 500%. For comparison, woven garments stretch mainly along one direction (the bias) and are not very elastic, unless they are woven from stretchable material such as spandex. Knitted garments are often more form-fitting than woven garments, since their elasticity allows them to follow the body's curvature closely. ‘Thwead used in weaving is usually much finer than the yam used in kiting, which can give the knitted fabric more bulk and less drape than a woven fabric.CHARACTERISTICS Knitted fabric is unique in that it possesses a high order of elastic stretched to a considerable length and yet will gradually retum to i conformation. ty and recovery, Itcan be original shape or Design pattems can be changed quickly to meet fashion needs. Process is less expensive and faster regardless of fabric width. The knitted structure is porous. It allows the skin to breathe freely. Its elasticity permits greater freedom of body movements. Knitted fabrics have higher potential shrinkage than woven fabrics. The accepted standard is 5 percent for knits, Knits are less likely to wrinkle during use, care, packing and storage. Air permeability arising from its looped structure, imparts to it desirable and appealing properties.DEFECTS IN KNITTED SKEWING BOWING OR TWISTING NEEDLE RUN KNOTS — SLUB FABRIC RUN BARRE PRESS OFF SPIRALITY Figure. Typical Bow Condition FABRICS Figure 2. Typical Skewness (Bias) Condition(2) Clearing (3) Latch opening FORMATION OF A KNIT STITCH (1) Start positionLee SS Q ki jock over . sess ing FORM. (ATI 0. Te STINK CH CO) FeeadSTRUCTURE There are two main industrial categories of machine knitting : warp knitting and weft knitting. Fabrics in both these categories consist essentially of a series of interlinked loops of yarn. + Warp Knit Warp knitting is the process of making a fabric in which the loops form in a vertical or warp wise direction; the yam is prepared as warp on beams with one or more yarns for each needle. The fabric has afater, closer, less elastic knit han weft knit and is very often run resistant. + Weft Knit Weft knitting is the most common type of knitting, itis the process of making a fabric by forming a series of connected loops in a horizontal or filiing-wise direction; produced on both flat and circular knitting machines.WARP AND WEFT KNITTING In the more common weft knitting, the wales are perpendicular to the course of the yam. In warp knitting, the wales and courses run roughly parallel. In weft knitting, the entire fabric may be produced from a single yarn, by adding stitches to each wale in turn, moving across the fabric as in a raster scan. Wieft-knit fabrics may also be knit with multiple yams, usually to produce interesting color patterns. The two most common approaches are intarsia and stranded color work. In intarsia, the yarns are used in well-segregated regions, e.g., a red apple on a field of green; in that case, the yarns are kept on separate spools and only one is knitted at any time.PRINCIPLE OF KNITTING LOOP AND STITCH The loop is the fundamental element of all knitted fabrics. It is a basic unit consisting of a loop of yarn meshed at its base with previously formed basic units (stitches). Components of a knitting loop are the needle loop and the sinker loop. ‘needle loop is one which has been drawn through a previous loop. Asinker loop is one which connects adjacent needle loops. The stitch is the smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics. It consists of a yarn loop, which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other loops. There are three basic knitted stitches : KNIT, TUCK and MISS (float or non-knit) which form the starting point for the entire range of weft knitted structureKNIT STITCHES Knit stitch (technical face) : is of V-shape appearance where the shanks are above, and the feet are below the head of the preceding stitch. Puri stitch (technical back) : is of the semi-circle appearance where the legs are below, and the feet are above the head of the preceding stitch. Tuck stitch : is made when a needle rises to take a new loop without casting off the old. It consists of a held loop and a tuck loop, both of which are intermeshed in the same course. Miss stitch (Float) : A length of yarn not received by a needle and connecting two loops of the same course that are not in adjacent wales.KNITTING METHODS knitting was originally done by hand on straight or round needles by slipping stitches from one needle to the other and making a new stitch with each change. While hand knitting continues, the main commercial product now is turned out by machine. A knitting machine is @ device used to'ceate knited fabrics in a semi or fully automated fashion. There are numerous types of knitting machines, ranging from the simple, non-mechanical, to the highly complex and electronic. All, however, produce various types of knitted fabrics, usually either flat or tubular, and of varying degrees of complexity. Pattern stitches can be selected by hand manipulation of the needles, or with push-buttons and dials, mechanical punch cards, or electronic pattern reading devices and computers.KNITTING MACHINESKNITTING NEEDLES + SPRING — BEARD NEEDLES This needle consists of a top hook curved downwards with a finished tip and the downward continuation is called beard. + LATCH NEEDLE It consists of a hook portion at the top and a latch riveted at certain distance from the needle head. Latch needles are given sliding movements in individual grooves called tricks of the cylinder. + COMPOUND NEEDLE The speed of the bearded needle machine is restricted by two factors. The presser required to close or open the beard and the length of the beard.FLATBED MACHINES {In flat knitting, the fabric is usually turned after every row. However, in some versions of double knitting with two yarns and double-pointed knitting needles, the fabric may tured after every second row. A flat knitting machine is very flexible, allowing complex stitch designs, shaped knitting and precise width adjustment. It is, however relatively slow when compared to a circular machine. ‘Ths two largest manufacturers of industrial fat kniting machines are Sto of Germany, and Shimla Seiki of Japan. But the pioneer of flat knitting machine is MATSUYA, Japan.FASHION MACHINES Fully fashioned knitting machines are flat knitting machines that produce custom pre-shaped pieces of a knitted garment. Instead of knitting a whole rectangular sheet of fabric, instructions from a knit pattern on a punch card ‘or computer file guide a fully fashioned knitting machine's needles to add or drop stitches to create custom two-dimensional shapes appropriate to the desired finished garment structure. The pieces emerge from the machine ready to be sewn together.CIRCULAR, MACHINES Circular knitting or knitting in the round is a form of knitting that creates a seamless tube. When knitting circularly, the knitting is cast on and the circle of stitches is joined. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of rows in flat knitting) in a spiral. Originally, circular knitting was done using a set of four or five double-pointed needles. Later, circular needles were invented, which can also be used to knit in the round: the circular needle looks like two short knitting needles connected by a cable between them. Longer circular needles can be used to Produce narrow tubes of kiting for socks, mittens, nd other items using the Magic Loop technique.FLAT KNITTING VERSUS CIRCULAR, KNITTING Circular knitting (also called "knitting in the round’) is a form of knitting that can be used to create a seamless tube. Knitting is worked in rounds (the equivalent of rows in flat knitting) in a helix. erp ror: on toe aun. fs used. (gost Hass era i alae ae cloth. It is done with two straight knitting needles and is worked in rows, horizontal lines of stitches. Circular knitting is employed to create pieces that are circular or tube-shaped, such as hats, socks, mittens, and sleeves. Flat knitting is usually used to knit flat pieces like scarves, blankets, afghans, and the backs and fronts of sweaters.= ) é | 7 KNIT PRODUCTSKNITIING INDUSTRIES OF INDIAINDUSTRY TYPES 1. Knitting (Fabric Manufacturing by weft or warp knitting technique) 2. Knitted Garments (Panel knitting, cutting & assembling or Fully Cut Garments made from knitted Fabrios or Integral Garments) 3. Knitted Fabric & Garments (Fabric knitting and garment manufacturing in the same factory premises)ALLIED INDUSTRIES TO KNITTING + Yam making (Spinning Industry) + Yarn Dyeing + Fabrics Dyeing & Finishing + Fabric Printing Garment Washings (Stone, Acid, Enzyme Washes, Milling, Shrink Resist etc.)AUXILIARY INDUSTRIES TO KNITTING + Embroidery + Label Making + Packing Materials + Laminating + Needle Making + Sewing threads, elastic tapes, buttons, appliqués etc.KNITTED GARMENTS UNITS + Knitwear (Cut & Stitch and Fully-fashioned, such as sweaters and cardigans) + Knitted Fabric Garments (Fully Cut & Stitch Type such as T-Shirts, Lady's Tops, Shorts, Skirts, and under wear) + Integral Garments (Knitted in circular form, require little or no cutting & seaming, such as Socks, stockings, panty hose, and now whole garments)WHAT DO KNITTING MANUFACTURING UNITS DO ? + Procure yarns (Wool, acrylic, blended etc.) + Knit panels (front, back, arms) + Cutor Trim to shapes + Assemble panels (Stitch, overlock, link) + Add-on (buttons, appliqués, embroidery etc.) + Finish (stain remove, shrink, mill, scour, and steam press) + Sell in domestic market or exportKNITTING INDUSTRY CLUSTERS In India we have 3 distinguishable prime cluster Knitted fabrics and garment manufacturing (KFG) Knitwear manufacturing (KM) Warp Knitted fabrics (Wk) ‘Some industries are located at secondary and tertiary clusters within or without prime cluster.© Prime Centers © Secondary centers © Tertiary Centers Calcutta Banglore Surat Amritsar sl|x|/elelelelele LOCATION OF KNITTING INDUSTRIES. IN INDIASHARE OF KNITTED GARMENTS IN THE Compared to world share of knitted garments production and consumption level of knitted garments in Indian is low. Lately it has picked up an upward trend. [WORLD SHARE| (INDIAN SHAREGROWTH OF KNITTING INDUSTRY Modern Knitting Industry is quite young in our country Indian Textile and Clothing industry which turned to be a sunrise industry in the recent past, its importance lies in the fact that with the market size, itis the 2° largest industry in India, contributes roughly 20% to the total industrial output and 8% to GDP and about 31% to the country's export earings, provide employment to about 40 million persons i.e. 18% of the country's workforce. With the end of the quota regime, India and China alone are regarded as major clothiers of the World. Major Developed Countries, EU and USA have placed restraints on exports of garments from China which will be in place until end 2008. This isthe opportunity for India to seize and establish herself to take away the leadership from ‘hina. Itis under such circumstances that India needs to plan her strategy and make India an alternative to China as a sourcing hub. Major importers of garments have already taken the initiative to source from India. Though during the last two decades, the Knitting Industry in India has grown up magnificenty, yet looking at the performance of our competitors in the Intemational Market, we visualize that Indian Knitting Industry has not ripen to the extent so as to withstand the challenge of our competitors fully.LUDHIANA KNIT INDUSTRY Ludhiana is a leading industrial town of the north Indian State of Punjab and an important center of textile and allied industry. More or less it accounts for about 21 percent of all industrial units and over 28% of the industrial output of the State of Punjab. Ludhiana js @ leading producer of woolen and acrylic knitwear, although it also uses extensively cotton and other blended fibers to produce a wide range of fabrics, hosiery, knitwear and ready- made garments. Consisting of both registered and unregistered units, almost 99% of the ready- made garments, textiles and hosiery industry in Ludhiana are small scale. Historically, the domestic market has been the main consumer of textile and garment industry's products and it has been growing significantly in recent years as income levels among India’s, middle class go up and fashion conscious young adult consumers increase.CONCLUSION We should all concentrate on using cotton and allied yarn in Knitting industry for value addition for the economic upliftment of our country rather than selling raw materials like cotton and cotton yarns as itis. Initiate more reforms and extend the TUF facility for another five years if it really wishes Indian Knitting and Knit garment industry capture a major chunk in the International Market and contribute to the major economic development of the country. Government should reform its Labor Policy and make it industry friendly This would further encourage the setting up of new units. Government should reduce the transaction costs from the present 11% to 4% which is still higher than the international 2%. Government should refund taxes, duties and subsidies on export production in time. Government should strive for a uniform Taxation Policy for all States. This will help all round uniform development of all the States of India and add considerably to the economic growth of India.TOP FIVE KNIT FABRIC SUPPLIERS IN INDIA + ARADHANA FABRICS (LUDHIANA ) + 7XINTERNATIONAL (LUDHIANA ) + SHRI RAM INDUSTRIES ( LUDHIANA ) + GAIKAN EXPORTS ( MUMBAI ) + YASH POLYTEX ( MUMBAI )THANKYOU ! SUBMITTED TO : MS. NEHA SUBMITTED BY: NIKITA GARG Vth SEMESTER,