AMANN SEWING THREADS

FOR THE KNITWEAR INDUSTRY

The production of a wide range of outerwear, under- The knitted fabric is produced as follows:
wear, lingerie, shirts, blouses, swimwear and leisure-
wear from knitted fabrics is a very important part of
the clothing industry. Thanks to their high wearing
comfort, the excellent adaptability of fit to each
individual’s measurements and movements, and their Stitch head
casual but elegant style, garments made from knitted Stitch shank
fabrics have won a strong market position next to Stitch foot
articles made from woven textiles, and have gained
a high degree of acceptance among consumers. In
fact, knitted fabrics are now the standard for garments
like underwear, lingerie, shirts, blouses and swimwear. previous built stitch
The generic term „knitted fabrics“ stands for certain
Stitch structure from right: Stitch structure from left:
kinds of textiles such as knitted and chainstitch fabrics.
The stitch foot is placed under The stitch foot is placed over
the head of the last stitch that the head of the last stitch that
was formed. was formed.

Adjacent stitches are referred to as a „stitching row“,

and a line of stitches in the longitudinal direction is
referred to as a „stitching line“.

Row direction

Knitted fabric (left/left pattern)

Knitted fabrics are made of stitches which are created

from a loop of thread held in position by other loops
of thread. A distinction is made between right and left
stitch patterns, which determine the appearance of the
right and left sides of the fabric. Stitching row
Line direction

Stitching line
Chainstitch fabric (right/left pattern)

To enable all the positive features of knitted fabrics to

In the chainstitch knitting pattern, threads running in
be exploited to the full in the production of garments,
the longitudinal direction are looped together. The
the typical characteristics of these fabrics must be taken
threads making up one or more ‘chains’ are shifted
into account in the sewing process. This means that,
sideways and joined together with the threads of
in addition to the sewing method best suited to the
adjacent chains.
type of knitted fabrics used, the sewing thread must
be included in this fundamental consideration because,
after all, it is the connecting link.

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1. DEMANDS PLACED ON THE
SEWING THREAD
The following characteristics are required when working
with knitted fabrics:

1. High tensile strength with a fine cross-section

2. Compactness and purity of the thread
3. Balanced elasticity, comfortable to the skin
4. Brilliant colours with high colour-fastness
5. Shrink-free, resistant to washing
6. Heat-resistant during ironing SABAC cone, spool, fashion colour card, card no.555 and product
profile.
7. Precise winding and even thread take off
RASANT (polyester/cotton core-spun thread)
8. Resistance to wear and abrasion
RASANT is the proven, established sewing thread for
the manufacture of garments like underwear, lingerie,
When these factors are considered more closely, it shirts, blouses and lightweight knitted fabrics. Thanks
can be seen that they are equally applicable to the to its cotton mantle and the resulting harmony with most
stitching of fine, lightweight knitted fabrics. In general, knitted fabrics, RASANT has an extremely pleasant and
the task of the sewing thread is to absorb and distribute comfortable feel. It offers excellent performance on all
all the forces which are applied to the seams. At the types of sewing machines used in the production of
same time it has to follow all movements elastically, garments from knitted fabrics. Additional benefits of
regardless of the nature of the various sections which RASANT are its resistance to washing and ironing and
are joined together. seam durability. The extensive range of RASANT thread
counts, structures and colours meets all the wishes of
2. RECOMMENDATIONS FROM manufacturers carrying out sewing processes.
THE AMANN RANGE
For the production of garments from knitted fabrics,
Amann offers a range of sewing threads that meet all
the demands of manufacturers:

SABAC (polyester/polyester core-spun thread)

SABAC is the universal thread for all seams. It guaran-
tees the highest sewing performance on all types of
machines, and ensures durable, long-lasting seams.
Thanks to the thin cross-section and high flexibility of
the thread, SABAC threads are non-obtrusive and give
a comfortable feel and a high level of comfort in wear.
The SABAC range offers a comprehensive choice of
RASANT cone, spool, fashion colour card, card no. 5000 and
thread counts together with a wide selection of product profile.
fashionable and matching colours.

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TEXTURAN (polyester textured thread) SEAM CONSTRUCTION AND SEWING
This thread type is used for overedge stitching or cover
stitch seams, wherever a high degree of coverage Two aspects are particularly important:
and softness is required.
1. LONGITUDINAL ELASTICITY AND
LATERAL STRENGTH OF THE SEAM
2. AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE TO THE
FABRIC BY THE SEWING PROCESS

1. LONGITUDINAL ELASTICITY AND

LATERAL STRENGTH OF THE SEAM
The right degree of longitudinal elasticity of the seam
required to meet the strains arising during the later wea-
ring of the garment is a very important factor in the
sewing process.
TEXTURAN cone with spoolholder, colour card 103 and product
profile.

1.1 SUITABLE SEWING THREADS

SERAFIL (polyester multifilament continuous thread)
Synthetic or semi-synthetic sewing threads form the
SERAFIL 120/2 and 200/2 are extremely fine threads
basis for elastic seams, because they combine a high
with a smooth, completely uniform surface. Their appli-
tensile strength and well balanced elasticity with a
cation areas are blindstitch or overedge stitching or
small cross-section. The optimised diameter in
needle thread for extreme fine fabrics.
comparison with other thread types allows the use of
finer needles, which are an essential requirement for
good sewing results with knitted fabrics.

SABAC, RASANT, SERAFIL and TEXTURAN are the ideal

threads to provide the desired bi-elastic wearing comfort
of knitted fabrics.
Cotton threads do not meet the demands that arise
when working with knitted fabrics because of the
following disadvantages:
 low elastic breaking strain of approximately
5% stretch
 significantly thicker thread cross-section for
SERAFIL kingspools with colour card 25 and product profile.
comparable tensile strength, requiring correspon-
dingly thicker needles to be used which give un-
favourable results with knitted fabrics
 insufficient resistance to abrasion, which means that
seam durability cannot be guaranteed

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1.2 QUANTITY OF THREAD IN THE SEAM Seam elongation in %
To ensure good longitudinal seam elasticity, the quantity
of thread used in the seam is an essential factor. The 100 Stitches/cm of seam length

quantity of thread that can be achieved in practice is 90

determined to a large extent by the type of stitch, the
80
stitch density, the weight of the fabric and the thread
tension. 70
67 %
60
All these factors are well suited for seams with
50 55 %
longitudinal elasticity, and are therefore used in making
garments from knitted fabrics. 40 46 %

The quantity of thread used will also be significantly 30

affected by a change in the type of stitch. The more 20
stitches that are sewn per cm of seam, the greater will
10
be the length of thread used in the seam. This results
in a higher seam elasticity. In other words, the general
rule when sewing knitted fabrics is: 1 2 3 4 5 6
stitches per cm
The greater the number of stitches per Material: knitted fabric, pure wool approx. 300 g/m2
cm of seam length, the greater will be Sewing thread: SABAC No. 120
Stitch type: double chainstitch type 401
the length of thread used in the seam,
and the higher will be the elasticity of
the seam. Compared with a straight lockstitch seam (stitch type
301), a lockstitch seam with a slight zig-zag (stitch
The decisive factor for the choice of the most suitable type 304) and a seam width of approximately 2 - 3
stitch density is the combination of the material to be mm will give a considerable increase in the longitudinal
sewn and the desired elastic stretch value of the thread. elasticity of the seam. The reason for this is the use of
As a general guide, a stitch density of 5 - 8 stitches/cm a greater quantity of thread compared with a straight
can be used, according to the type of stitch and the seam.
weight of the fabric. Very high stitch densities bring
with them the risks of damage to the structure of the
fabric and puckered seams.

The following diagram shows the influence of the

number of stitches per cm of seam length on the
longitudinal elasticity of the seam.

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1.3 SEWING MACHINES 1.4.2 LOCKSTITCH SEAMS
The ability to incorporate greater quantities of thread For interlocking machines, the needle and looper
into the seam will be increased by the use of sewing thread tensions should be set so that the interlocking
machines with suitable stitchtypes and feeding systems of the two threads takes place in the centre of the
(differential transport), which enables the fabric to be fabric layers; i.e. the same quantities of needle and
stretched further after the sewing process. looper threads are used. The tension of both threads
should be set as low as possible, as long as the resulting
seam tightness is sufficient.
1.4 OPTIMAL THREAD TENSION
Optimally adjusted thread tensions are a necessary to
ensure correct thread balance and the use of a sufficient LOCKSTITCH (STITCH TYPE 301)
quantity of thread in the seam.
Optimum and incorrect thread balance for a lockstitch
seam:
1.4.1 CHAINSTITCH, COVERSEAMSTITCH
AND OVERLOCK STITCH SEAMS
For all chainstitch, coverstitch and overlock machines,
the thread tensions are correctly adjusted when the Well balanced stitch pattern; maximum seam elasticity and tensile
strength
needle thread appears as small dots on the underside
of the fabric and the optimally tensioned looper thread
can be pulled through these dot-shaped thread-loop
ends without any effort.
Needle thread tension too high or bobbin tension too low;
insufficient seam elasticity and tensile strength
DOUBLE CHAINSTITCH (STITCH TYPE 401)

Correct and incorrect thread balance, shown using an

example of a double chainstitch seam: Bobbin tension too high or needle thread tension too low;
insufficient seam elasticity and tensile strength

Well balanced tension for a double chainstitch seam

Incorrect tension for a double chainstitch seam

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2. AVOIDANCE OF DAMAGE TO THE Examples of damage to the structure of the fabric
FABRIC BY THE SEWING PROCESS
Damage to the structure of the fabric occurs when the
fabric is penetrated by the needle. Since no allowance
is made for the position of the fabric loops during the
sewing process, the needle can penetrate at any point
in the fabric. It can therefore deform the fabric loops
or cause the fabric structure to be opened to such an
extent that it will be torn open or damaged.
In many cases this type of damage is caused by a
finishing treatment of the fabric which is too hard.
This makes the fabric loops rigid and inflexible and
prevents them from being displaced by the tip of the
needle.

All knitted or woven fabrics made of natural fibres

are particularly sensitive to damage when the humidity
of the air falls strongly, for example in winter when
central heating causes dry air. Natural fibres have
hygroscopic characteristics, causing them to have a
certain moisture content which keeps the fabric soft
and flexible. Dry air makes natural fibres brittle, which
makes the fabric inflexible. This means that they cannot
easily be displaced when the fabric is penetrated by
the needle, and are therefore liable to break during
the sewing process.
If extremely fine fabrics are being sewn under these
conditions with high needle speeds, excessively thick
needles or the wrong needle tip shape, the fabric
structure can literally be destroyed. If very high needle
temperatures are reached, molten particles from the Damage to the structure of the fabric can be prevented
fabric treatment, or in the case of synthetic fibres from by:
the fabric itself, can become deposited on the surface
of the needle, and in the needle eye. Thread break- 2.1 USE OF THE RIGHT NEEDLE
ages may occure. SIZE
It is well known that if an excessive needle thickness is
used, the fabric structure can be deformed beyond its
elastic limit and as a result can be subject to an irre-
coverable strain. This can result in significant damage
to the structure of the fabric. For this reason, the thinnest
possible needles, for example Nm 80 or 70, should
be used. Ball-point needles will prevent damages as
well.

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2.2 CHOICE OF THE RIGHT NEEDLE POINT 2.4 SELECTING THE CORRECT NEEDLE
When sewing knitted fabrics, it is beneficial to use HOLE SIZE
needles with a small ballpoint shape („SES“) for fine The size of the needle holes in the needle plate
fabrics, or a medium ballpoint shape („SUK“) for should always be matched to the needle thickness,
heavier fabrics. These points will not penetrate into because if the needle holes are too large the fabric
the individual threads or capillaries of the fabric, but will be pulled through them in the shape of a fun-
instead will simply displace them slightly. nel. This is another way in which damage can be
For special fabric grades, the use of needles with caused to the structure of the fabric.
other tip shapes may also be found to give good
sewing results.
2.5 ADJUSTMENT OF THE
Note: MACHINE SPEED
The needle thickness has a greater influence on the If the above recommendations are followed and the
possibility of damage to the fabric structure than the fabric is still damaged, the cause may be an excessively
needle point, because the differences between „R“, high rotational speed of the machine. Reducing the
„SES“ or „SUK“ needles with a thickness of speed of the machine will always give better sewing
approximately 70 are minimal. results, and may in some cases allow the use of a
thicker needle (for example in decorative lockstitch
work).
2.3 FREQUENT NEEDLE CHANGING
Even the slightest damage to the tip of the needle will However, reducing the sewing speed should only be
automatically cause damage to the structure of the regarded as an emergency solution. A check should
fabric each time the needle penetrates it. The needle first be made of whether the damage to the fabric can
should therefore be checked constantly and changed be prevented by using a differently treated fabric
whenever necessary. Practical experience shows that which gives better sewing results.
frequent changing of the needle at regular intervals
greatly reduces damage to the structure of the fabric.

Damaged needle point

Photo: SCHMETZ

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2.6 CARRYING OUT SEAM TESTS SABAC AND RASANT - STILL OUR
Before sewing knitted fabrics, thorough seam tests STRONGEST ARGUMENT
should be carried out on the various material weights With SABAC, the polyester/polyester core-spun thread,
and colours. RASANT, the polyester/cotton core-spun thread and
It is impossible to be sure that no damage to the fabric TEXTURAN, the polyester textured thread, AMANN
will be caused in production until these tests have offers garment manufacturers a choice of threads which
been completed with positive results. offer an outstanding combination of quality characte-
ristics:
A final conclusion can be gained by a manual stress
test, in which the fabric parts which have been stitched
Universel usage for all applications and production
together are moved vigorously in relation to each
areas
other using both hands. Only a test like this will reveal
stitches in the fabric which have been damaged during
Optimal sewing characteristics on all
the sewing process, and which would not have been
machines = excellent results in automated
noticed by visual checking alone.
processes
Manual stress test
Trouble-free sewing performance

High lateral seam strength

Superior resistance to abrasion

Optimal elasticity

Consistent colours from batch to batch

Outstanding seam quality

Allows rationalisation of the sewing thread range,

thanks to its suitability for both visible and
invisible seams

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AMANN THREAD APPLICATIONS FOR KNITWEAR AND WOVEN FABRICS

JOINING SEAMS SABAC 80/ RASANT 75

for seams subject to high strains in menswear and leisure wear
SABAC 120/ RASANT 120
for all seams subject to normal strains in menswear, women’s wear,
leisure wear, underwear and swimwear
SABA 150*/ RASANT 150
for all extremely fine seams in underwear, shirts and blouses etc.

OVERLOCK SERAFIL 120/2, SERAFIL 200/2

AND COVER THREADS SABA 150*/RASANT 150
DOUBLE CHAIN- TEXTURAN 120
STITCH SEAMS TEXTURAN 250

DECORATIVE SEAMS SABA 30*

SABAC 50, RASANT 50
SABAC 80, RASANT 75

BLINDSTITCH SEAMS SERAFIL 120/2, 200/2

SABA 150*

EYELET BUTTONHOLES SABAC 80 and where applicable

SABA 30* as Gimpe
RASANT 75

BUTTONHOLES IN SHIRTS, SABAC 100

BLOUSES ETC. SABAC 120/RASANT 120

*other thread construction or material

SEWING APPLICATION SUPPORT

We will be glad to provide you with support in relation
to any application and process issues.
Please do not hesitate to contact us at: phone +49 (71 43) 277-250

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THE MOST IMPORTANT STITCH TYPES IN THE KNITTED * Basis: Standard sewing
FABRICS INDUSTRY WITH SEWING THREAD REQUIREMENTS material 1mm with
FOR STANDARD SEWING PARAMETERS* 4 stitches/cm

More information can be obtained from our brochure „Determining your sewing thread requirements”

STITCH TYPE ISO 4915 SEAM- THREAD REQUIREMENT

DIN 61400 CONSTRUCTION %
PER 1m SEAMLENGTH

Two-needle NT: 3,40 m 29%

double chainstitch 406 UT: 8,40 m 71%
11,80 m 100%

NT: 3,40 m 20%

Two-needle UT: 8,40 m 50%
double chainstitch 602 CT: 5,10 m 30%
with cover thread
16,90 m 100%

NT: 5,10 m 23%

Three-needle UT: 11,60 m 52%
covering chainstitch 605 CT: 5,80 m 25%
with cover thread
22,50 m 100%

NT: 6,80 m 25%

Four-needle UT: 14,80 m 54%
covering chainstitch 607 CT: 5,80 m 21%
with cover thread
27,40 m 100%

Three-thread NT: 1,70 m 12%

overedge stitch 504 UT: 12,10 m 88%
interlaced at needle hole 13,80 m 100%

Four-thread NT: 3,40 m 20%

overedge stitch 514 UT: 13,70 m 80%
17,10 m 100%

NT: 1,70 m 35%

Double chainstitch 401 UT: 3,10 m 65%
4,80 m 100%

NT: 2,70 m 50%

Lockstitch zigzag 304 UT: 2,70 m 50%
5,40 m 100%

NT: 1,40 m 50%

Lockstitch 301 UT: 1,40 m 50%
2,80 m 100%

NT=Needle thread · UT=Underthread (looper or bobbin thread · CT=Cover thread

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