HARRI EUNOIA TOP

MATERIALS

12ply/bulky/chunky weight yarn

Thank you
(will also forwith
work downloading a Little Golden
10ply/Aran/Medium weight)Nook Designs crochet pattern. This pattern is for personal use
only. Please
Main Color feel–free
(MC) to(cuff,
100 m shareheel,
yourtoe
finished
inc.) garment on Instagram/facebook, tagging me @littlegoldennook
3and
contrast colors (CC) - approx. 50-60 meters
using the hashtag #littlegoldennook and of each (including pompoms)
#eunoiatop. Please don’t sell, forward, change or claim this
I/5.5mm hook
pattern as your own. You may sell your finished garment ensuring you give credit to me for the design.
Stitch Markers
Please ask permission before sharing my photos.
Tapestry needle
Pompom maker (optional)

MATERIALS

Yarn – 8ply/dk/light weight cotton in three or more colours:

420 meters 480 meters 550 meters
Eg. Pictured top is XS – 480m split 3 ways with extra for the straps and trim, so approximately 180m – red,
150m peach, 150m beige.
-4mm hook* -3.5mm hook (for optional button bands)*
-Tapestry needle -3 or 4 small 10mm buttons (optional)
*If you are between sizes, size down and use a 4.5mm hook (and 4mm for button band)
Tips: If you’d like to make a top for a younger child, try using 4ply/fingering yarn and a 3mm hook.
To make a larger top use Aran/medium weight/10ply yarn and a 5 or 5.5 mm hook.

NOTES + SIZING

For a comprehensive tutorial on the Wheel Stitch used in this pattern, go to https://madebygootie.com and
search there for Catherine’s Wheel Crochet Stitch. Or search Catherine’s Wheel Stitch on Youtube. Naztazia
has a great tutorial with a helpful tweak to the even rows to avoid gaps.

This pattern is in US terms.

Ch 3 at the end of a row counts as 1 dc
Ch 1 does not count as a stitch.

Gauge: 10.5 rows and 21 stitches in 10 x 10cm

Sizes - three sizes designed for 8 – 10y-XXS XS-Small Med-Large
33-34 37-38.5 42-44 cm* across chest, with top laying flat.*see materials tips
25 28 30 cm underarm to bottom (with option to make longer or shorter)
STITCHES AND ABBREVIATIONS

Ch- chain St - stitch Slst- slip stitch

Sc – single crochet Dc – double crochet Rep – repeat
Dc7tog – [Yarn over, insert hook in next stitch, yarn over and pull up loop, yarn
over, draw through 2 loops] x 7 (so you have 8 loops on hook), yarn over, draw
through all loops on hook.
Dc3tog (or Dc4tog) – same as dc7tog but x 3 (4), and 4 (5) loops on hook.
Cluster – 7 dcs 0r dc7tog when only a half wheel Wheel – each finished circle of
dcs (from 2 rows)

PATTERN

With your 4mm hook and trim colour (or any colour you choose for your bottom row), form a slip knot and
chain 142 162 182

Row 1: sc in 2nd ch from hook, sc in next ch, *skip 3 chs, 7 dc in next ch, skip 3 chs, sc in next 3 chs, rep from *
to end, omitting one sc at the end, change colour, ch 3, turn (14 16 18 clusters)

Pause here to check that your work comfortably fits around your lower waist. If not, you can go up or down a
size, adding or removing 10 chains.
Note: the bottom of your top will not look like the finished picture until later in the pattern when you will have
the option of finishing the row 1 wheels with a simple extra row.

Row 2: dc3tog, ch 3, *sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, rep from * to last cluster, sc in next 3 sts, ch 3,
dc4tog, ch 3, turn (13 15 17 clusters, plus 2 end halves)
Row 3: 3 dc in top of last cluster, *sc in next 3 sts, 7 dcs in top of next cluster, rep from * to last cluster, sc in
next 3 sts, 4 dc in last cluster, change color, ch 1, turn.

Pause here to check that your work fits comfortably around your waist and ribs. If you need more room, now is a
good time to go up a half or full hook size. There are extra instructions later for adding width for bust size.

Row 4: sc 2, ch 3, dc7tog, *ch 3, sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, dc7tog, rep from * to last 2 sts, ch 3, sc 2, ch 1, turn (14
16 18 clusters)

Row 5: sc 2, 7 dc in top of 1st cluster, *sc 3, 7 dc in top of next cluster, rep from * to last 2 sts, 2 sc, change
colour, ch 3, turn

Row 6: dc3tog, ch 2, *sc in next 3 sts, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 3, rep from * to last few sts, ch 2, dc4tog, ch 3, turn
Row 7: 3 dc in top of last cluster, *sc in next 3 sts, 7 dcs in top of next cluster, rep from * to last cluster, sc in
next 3 sts, 4 dc in last cluster, change color, ch 1, turn

Repeat rows 4, 5, 6 and 7 until your work measures close to 25 27 29 cm, ending with a row 4 so that you
have 14 16 18 clusters.
Check that this length fits your torso as you’d like it to. I.e. so that it runs from above the bra line on your back,
down to a comfortable length at or below your waist. Add or remove rows to suit. IF you finish with a row 6, you
will need move your join around to the back a little in order to follow the neckline instructions.
Tip: you can add length later with the final bottom row and the trim option OR by adding further wheel rows.

For your last row, repeat row 5, but for the tween/XXS size and size M – L, when you reach the 4th 5th
cluster, instead of working 7 dcs, slst across it (slst x 4), then carry on as per pattern to the end of the row
and fasten off.

To join your ends, fold your work in half width-ways. You may notice that your two ends sit on a slant. Once
joined this will be unnoticeable.
I suggest placing your join at the side, this way you can add a
button option to allow for a little more room across the bust.
Once you’ve joined your piece you can decide which side the join
will be on depending on how much the join shows on either side.

Join your ends from row 1 to row 16 or 17 by either using your loose ends, weaving them into the opposite
side end, or using pieces of each yarn color to sew each row closed. If you don’t need extra width for the
chest area, you can go ahead and sew together your remaining row ends.
If you plan to add the buttons, leave remaining ends open.
You can now lay your top flat with the front
side facing up to mark out your neckline. Place
stitch markers in the 4th dc of the 3rd 4th 4th
and the last wheel. Then flip your work over to
size XS-S
begin working from the ‘wrong’ side of the

Size teen/XXS front.

NECKLINE ROWS
Note - There are ch 2 instead of ch 3 near the start and end of the following
rows to ensure the neckline doesn’t gape.

Attach next colour yarn to the marked stitch (see photo, right).
Size teen/XXS skip rows 1 and 2 and start at row 3

Row 1: sc in next st, ch 2, *dc7tog, ch 3, sc 3, ch 3, rep from * once, dc7tog, ch

2, 1 sc, slst in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 2: sc in next st (in sc from row 1), *dc 7 in cluster, sc 3, rep from * once, dc 7 in cluster, 1 sc, slst in next
st, fasten off.

Turn your work over and attach next yarn to the 4th dc on the 1st of 3 ‘wheels’ just completed (far right).

Row 3: sc in next st, ch 2, dc7tog, ch 3, sc 3, ch 3, dc7tog, ch 2, 1 sc, slst in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 4: sc in next st (in sc from row 1), dc 7 in cluster, sc 3, dc 7 in cluster, 1 sc, slst in next st, fasten off.
Turn your work over and attach next yarn to the 4th dc on the 1st of 2 ‘wheels’ just
completed (to your right).

Row 5: sc in next st, ch 2, dc7tog, ch 2, 1 sc, slst in next st, ch 1, turn

Row 6 (final row): sc in next st, dc 7 in cluster, 1 sc, slst in next st, fasten off.

Repeat the (four) six rows on the other side, starting in the other marked stitch.

STRAPS

Left side strap (facing top)

Attach your strap colour to the 3rd stitch of your last ‘wheel’, ch 1

Row 1: sc in same st, sc in next 2 (3) sts*, ch 1, turn [3 (4) sts]

Row 2: sc 3 (4), ch 1, turn [3 (4) sts]

Row 3 onwards: repeat row 2 until your strap measures approximately 30cm. Check
that this length will reach over your shoulder to the back of your top allowing 1 – 3cm
extra to sew to the inside. Fasten off.

Attach same colour to the right side top wheel at the 3rd (2nd) st. Repeat above rows..

With your tapestry needle, sew the end of each strap to the inside of the back, 2 or 3 wheels apart. Further
detail and photos on page 8.

*Strap width options: left image here is 4 sc width,

right image is 3 sc width.
BUTTON SECTION (OPTIONAL)

Decide on which colour you will use to work your button bands and have 3.5mm hook ready.

Attach yarn to the left of the point at ‘A’ (to work up the left edge to ‘B’)

Row 1: sc in same sp, sc evenly up the left edge to B, ch 1, turn (I have

approx 24 sts across 16 rows or 8 wheels)

Row 2: 1 sc in each st to end, ch 1, turn

Row 3: repeat row 2, fasten off

Attach yarn to top right corner ‘C’ (to work down the right edge to ‘A’)

Row 1: sc in same sp, sc evenly up the left edge to B, ch 1, turn (I have approx 24 sts across 16 rows or 8
wheels)

Row 2: skip 1st st, 1 sc in next st, 1 sc each st to end, ch 1, turn

This is where you can add a little extra room for a larger bust. Work a row of
scs now, then repeat row 2, so that you have two extra rows before working
row 3 and the button holes.

Row 3 button holes are calculated for 23 total stitches. If you have more, you
may like to use 4 buttons. Suggestions below**.

Row 3: 1 sc, *ch 2, sk next st, sc 9, rep from * once, ch 2, sk next st, sc in last
st, ch 1, turn

Row 4: skip 1st st, *1 sc in ch sp, sc 9, rep from * once, 1 sc in ch sp, sc in last
st, fasten off.

** count your stitches after row 2 (or 4 if you add rows). If you have more
than 25 stitches, I suggest using 4 buttons.

If you have exactly 25 follow row 3 above, with 10 scs between holes.
For 4 buttons, subtract 4 from your stitch total, then subtract 2 (1st and last st), then divide the remainder by
3 to find out the number of stitches to work between button holes.

Eg. 29 – 4 – 2 = 23, 23/3 = 8 (almost), so work 8 scs between the first 3

holes, and 7 scs before the last one.

So, row 3 for four button holes: 1 sc, *ch 2, sk next st, sc 8, rep from * once,
ch 2, sk next st, sc 7, ch 2, sk next st, sc in last st, ch 1, turn

And if you have say 31 stitches, you will work 9 stitches instead of 7, or 32
stitches, you will work 9 between 3 holes, then 8 before the last, etc.

Finally, work row 4 as above.

Line up and sew on your buttons with the same yarn, split in half if you find it too thick for your needle.

FINAL STEPS

ATTACH STRAPS
Attach your straps to the back of your top in line
with the front (a), OR cross them over at the back
and attach on opposite sides (b).

For the size XS/S, attach behind wheel 3 and 6.

For the other two sizes I suggest attaching between
a b
wheels 2 and 3 and 5 and 6 or 3 and 4 and 6 and 7.

a b
EDGING

Right side (under right arm):

With your smaller hook and your chosen edge colour, attach yarn to the right side of your top (point
c), and ch 1. Sc in same sp, sc in each st to the top of the first wheel, ch 1, *sc in next st, and in each
stitch to the top of the next wheel, ch 1* (rep between * * over more wheels), sc in next st, and in
each st to the 1st strap, turn your work 90 degrees and sc in each st up the side of the strap and over
to the front end of strap, turn to work down and along the edge of your
top to the start, join with slst to 1st sc, fasten off.

Left side:
Repeat the above step for the other side, attaching yarn at the left side
(point d), and working in reverse, along and up the front, up and over the
strap to the back, turn and continue working scs* along the back, to join
with your 1st stitch and fasten off.
*don’t forget to ch 1 at the top of each wheel to help them keep their
shape.

Middle of back and front:

Attach yarn to point e, ch 1, sc in same sp, sc in each st up and over the inside edge of strap and
down in the inside of the V neck. I worked 3 x slst instead of scs across the bottom of the ‘V’, then
scs up the V, up and over the other strap, and turn your work to sc across the last wheels (with ch 1
at the top of each, join to 1st sc, fasten off.

FINAL ROW

To complete the wheels along the bottom of your top, use the same colour you used for row 1, and
attach to the bottom at the join (with your top upside down)

Sc 2, *7 dc in the same ch sp where the 7 dcs from row 1 were, sc 3, repeat from * around the
bottom of your top, 1 sc to finish, join to 1 st sc with slst, fasten off.
OPTIONAL BOTTOM EDGING

Attach 1st colour between two wheels, at or close to the joined side of your top, ch 1

Row 1: sc in next st, ch 1, skip next st, sc in next st, *(ch 1, sc

in next st) x 4, (ch 1, sk next st, sc in next st) x 3, rep from *
around the bottom of your top, finish with an sc, ch 1, join to
1st sc with slip stitch, fasten off (unless you plan to reuse this
colour).

Note for row 1 - you should have 5 sc over the wheel (4 plus the sc before), and 2 sc between the
wheels.

Attach 2nd colour to 1st ch sp from row 1, ch 1

Row 2: sc in same sp, ch 1, sk next st, *sc in ch sp, ch 1, skip

next st, rep from * around bottom of your top, join to 1st sc
with slst, fasten off (unless you will reuse for next rows)

Attach 3rd colour to a ch sp between wheels, ch 1

Row 3: sc in same sp, sc in next ch sp, *ch 1, sc in next ch sp, rep from * until you are at the centre
top of the wheel, work an extra sc in this sp, (ch 1, sc in next ch sp) x 2, (sc in next ch sp) x 2, rep
from * around, join to 1st sc with slst, fasten off.

Optional 4th colour/row

Row 4: repeat row 2, but between wheels work 3 x sc, no chains.