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Nova Top

The document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating a NOVA top, including materials needed, abbreviations, construction notes, and step-by-step instructions for making two panels and seaming them together. It emphasizes the importance of measuring for a custom fit and includes special stitches and edging techniques. The pattern allows for customization in terms of fit and sleeve length, making it versatile for different preferences.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
66 views15 pages

Nova Top

The document provides a detailed crochet pattern for creating a NOVA top, including materials needed, abbreviations, construction notes, and step-by-step instructions for making two panels and seaming them together. It emphasizes the importance of measuring for a custom fit and includes special stitches and edging techniques. The pattern allows for customization in terms of fit and sleeve length, making it versatile for different preferences.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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NOVA TOP PDF PATTERN

By Novamesne

MATERIALS NEEDED:

Recommended Yarn; Bamboo Pop Sock by Universal Yarn ( color 610- Teasel ) or any fingering
weight/ DK weight yarn of your choice. I used 3 balls of yarn but didn’t finish the 3rd ball ( about
270g of yarn )
2 hook sizes: Recommended hook size for your yarn and a smaller hook. I used a 1.50mm hook
and 2.0mm hook
Tape measure
Stitch Makers
Yarn needle
Scissors

ABBREVIATIONS (US TERMINOLOGY)

SC – single crochet
DC – double crochet
TRC – treble crochet
yo - yarn over
sk – skip
st – stitch
REP – repeat
Ch – chain
TRC-INC - treble crochet increase
TRC-DEC – treble crochet decrease
PATTERN NOTES

1.) This top is made to measure, make sure to take note of everything ( number of stitches
and rows you make.)
2.) You can choose to make your top fitted or loose, you can also decide to make the
sleeved or sleeveless version.
3.) You can choose how long you want your sleeve to be

CONSTRUCTION

➢ The top consists of two identical panels which will be seamed together at the shoulders
and sides. Each panel is divided into 2 parts: The Upper Section and The Lower Section.

➢ The Upper Section consists of 3 parts: The Armhole Shaping, No Decrease and The
Shoulder Shaping.

➢ The sleeves will be worked in the round.

THE PATTERN

You need to determine how wide and long both panels are going to be.

Width of each Panel: Measure your bust measurement, then subtract some inches from
your measurement. Divide this new measurement by 2. This will be your Panel Width
Measurement.

E.g. my bust measurement is 32” and I subtracted 3”, so 32” – 3” = 29”. I then
divided 29” by 2. My Panel Width Measurement was 14.5”.

For the prototype, I subtracted 7” this made it very fitted.

NOTE: If you want a looser fit or oversized fit, just divide your bust measurement
by 2 to get the width of each panel. You can add more inches to your bust
measurement for an oversized fit before dividing it by 2.
Length of each Panel: measure from your shoulder to where you want your top to
reach. This measurement will be your Top Length.
Since each panel consist of 2 part, you need to get how long each part is going to be.
Here’s how I did mine:

• My Top Length is 19”, to get the length of The Upper Section I measured from my
shoulders to my underarm. I measured 6” as the length of The Upper Section.

• For the Upper Section, I decided to make my Shoulder Shaping section to be 1” long
while the Armhole Shaping and Regular section was 5” all together.

• For the length of Lower Section, I subtracted Upper Section Length from Top Length,
so 19”- 6” = 13”. My Lower Section be 13” long.

Here’s a poor sketch I made of how I allocated my measurements

The video tutorial for the stitch


Special stitches:

TRC-DEC : yo 2x, insert your hook into the stitch, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops, * yo once,
skip a st, insert your hook into the next, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops *, REP * once again.
You should have 5 loops on your hook, pull through 3 loops, 3 loops left on your hook, pull 2
loops, pull 2 loops again. And you’re done.

TRC-INC : yo 2x, make a TRC, * Ch 1, yo once, insert your hook into the base of your TRC, pull
up a loop, make a DC *, REP * once again. And you’re done

THE PANEL ( MAKE 2 )

Full Tutorial for the Top here.

THE LOWER SECTION

NOTE: Ch 4 counts as a TRC. You can choose to make stacked SC instead of Ch 4.

Using your smaller hook (I used a 1.50mm hook), chain in multiples of 6 till you reach your
Panel Width Measurement. E.g. 96 chains.
Due to the multiples, your chain can be longer than your actual Panel Width Measurement
but it doesn’t matter.

SC ROW: Ch 1, sk the 1st ch on your hook, make a SC into the back bump of every ch till the
end. Turn your work.
At the end, the total amount of SC you have should be in multiples of 6.

NOTE: You can choose to make a chainless foundation single crochet row in multiples of 6
instead.
Switch to your larger hook size ( I switched to a 2.00mm hook )
R1: Ch 4, starting from the st where your Ch 4 is, make a TRC-DEC ( yo 2x, insert your hook
into the stitch, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops, * yo once, skip a st, insert your hook into the
next, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops *, REP * once again.
You should have 5 loops on your hook, pull through 3 loops, 3 loops left on your hook, pull
2 loops, pull 2 loops again.)
Make a TRC-INC in the next st ( yo 2x, make a TRC, * Ch 1, yo once, insert your hook into the
base of your TRC, pull up a loop, make a DC *, REP * once again.)
* Starting from the st, make a TRC-DEC, then make a TRC-INC in the next st *, REP * till the
end of the row. At the end you should have one st left, make a TRC into that st. Turn your work.

R2: Ch 4, * make a TRC-INC into the 3rd loop of the TRC-DEC from previous row, make a TRC-
DEC in the TRC-INC from the previous row ( you’ll be working in the 3rd loop of the DC and TRC
that makes up the TRC-INC, i.e. sk the Ch 1 in the TRC-INC ) *, REP * till the end, TRC in the
3rd chain of Ch 4 from previous row. Turn your work.
R2 starts and ends with a TRC-INC, excluding the beginning Ch 4 and TRC at the end.

R3: Ch 4, * make a TRC-DEC in the TRC-INC from the previous row ( you’ll be working in the
3rd loop of the DC and TRC that makes up the TRC-INC, i.e. sk the Ch 1 in the TRC-INC ),
TRC-INC in the 3rd loop of TRC-DEC from previous row *, REP * till end of row. TRC in the 3rd
chain of Ch 4 from previous row. Turn your work.
R3 starts and ends with a TRC-DEC excluding the beginning Ch 4 and TRC at the end
REP R2 and R3 till you reach the length of your Lower Section, be sure to end on a R3.

THE UPPER SECTION

Armhole Shaping

You’re going to make decreases to shape your Armhole, this will give a better fitting top. To
achieve this, you’ll be skipping the first and last TRC-DEC from the previous row.
DECREASE ROW : Ch 4, sk the 1st TRC-DEC from the previous row, * make a TRC-DEC in
the TRC-INC from the previous row, TRC-INC in the 3rd loop of TRC-DEC from previous row *,
REP * till you’re almost at the end of the row, sk the last TRC-DEC from previous row, TRC in
the 3rd chain of Ch 4. Turn your work.

You’ve made your first row of Decrease, you can choose to make more Decrease Rows by
repeating the above instructions. I made a total of 3 DECREASE ROWS.

My Panel was 14.5” wide but after my 3 DECREASE ROWS it became 11” wide. So
depending on how many inches you want to remove from your panel, you can make make 2
DECREASE ROWS or more.

No Decrease
Your previous row should start and end with a TRC-DEC excluding the beginning Ch 4 and
TRC at the end ( i.e. a R3 ).
Continue working the pattern by repeating R2 and R3 till you’re about 1” or 1.5” away from
the length of The Upper Section.
I made 7 rows and I stopped when I was 1” away from the length of The Upper Section, i.e.
when my Upper Section was 5” long.

Shoulder Shaping
Now you’re going to create a shoulder shaping. This is done by separating your panel into 3
parts: Left Shoulder, Right Shoulder and Center.
You need to find out how wide each part will be. Here’s how I did mine:

• I took my tape measure and measured from one end of my panel to the other end. My
panel was 11” wide.

• I divided 11” by 2 to estimate how wide each part would be. I got 5.5” as my result.

• The Center will take almost half of the measurement, so I decided to make both the Left
and Right Shoulder be 3” wide. The Center I made to be 5” wide

Another way to do this is by taking your measurement and dividing it by 4 to get the width of the
Left and Right Shoulder.
E.g. I will divide 11” by 4, which will give me about 2.75”. Rounding up 2.75” to 3”, that means
my Left and Right Shoulder will be 3” wide respectively. The Center will be 5” wide.
Now that you know the width of each part, it’s time to place SM to separate them.

• Starting from where you left off, use your tape measure to measure your Shoulder width
and place your SM on the mark.
NOTE: When placing your SM, take note of the row you ended on. If the row below you is a R2
( i.e. ends with a TRC-INC ), place your SM in a TRC-DEC.

If the row you ended on is a R3 ( i.e. ends with a TRC-DEC ), place your SM in the TRC st of
the TRC-INC.

REP the same thing for the other shoulder, make sure each shoulder has the same stitch count.

Pick your hook and continue from where you left off.
R1: Ch 4, continue with the pattern till you reach your SM, make a TRC in the st where your SM
is. Turn your work.
R2: Ch 4, continue with the pattern till the end, make a TRC in the 3rd chain of the Ch 4. Turn
your work.

I made a total of 3 rows which was about 1” in length, so continue with the pattern till you
reach the length if your Upper Section. Then you’ll finish with a SC ROW.

SC ROW: Ch 1, SC into every st and Ch 1 space from the previous row. Ch 1 and fasten off.

ATTACH your yarn at the other side and REP what you did for the other shoulder.

NOTE: When fastening off, leave a long tail to seam your work.

MAKE THE SECOND PANEL BY REPEATING EVERYTHING YOU DID FOR THE FIRST ONE

SEAMING THE PANELS


Shoulder Seaming

• Place your panels against each other, making sure you’re the wrong sides are facing
out.
• Using a yarn needle join the shoulders together.

Seaming the Sides

• Place a SM on the row where the Upper Section begins, make sure the SM is going
through both the front and back panel.

• You’re going to be seaming only the Lower Section of both panels.

• Start from the bottom, grab your hook and use the slip stitch join to seam the panels.

• The slip stitch join would work better than using a yarn needle because it gives more
structure to your top. You can use any joining method you prefer though.

• When joining with slip stitches, make 2 or 3 slip stitches along every row.

• Once you’re done joining, REP for the other side.

• Turn your work right side out and you’re done.

EDGING
Use your smaller hook size, I used a 1.50mm hook

The Neckline

• Attach your yarn into the center of the Back Panel, begin working SC into every st and
chain space, make 3 SC along every Ch 4 or TRC post til the end of the round.

• Join to the 1st SC and fasten off.

Sleeve Opening

• Attach your yarn at the bottom of the sleeve opening where your side seam is.

• Make 3 SC along every Ch 4 or TRC post till you get to your 1st SC.
• Once you get to the 1st SC, count the amount of sts you have and make sure it is in the
multiples of 6.

• If your sts are not in multiples of 6, check this table and find the number closest to the
amount of sts you’ve.
• Then make more SC to reach that number.

E.g. If I have 63 sts, the multiple of 6 closest to 63 is 66. I’ll make 3 extra SC so my
total stitch count will be 66.
Make sure to choose a number that is higher, I did not choose 60 because I didn’t want
to round down or have to decrease from 63 to 60 sts.

• If you don’t want to make the sleeves, sl st to the 1st SC and fasten off. REP the same
process for the other sleeve opening.

• If you’re making sleeves, sl st to the 1st SC and switch to your larger hook.

THE SLEEVES

The sleeves will be worked in the round but you’re going to turn after each round. Measure
from your shoulder to wherever you want your sleeve to reach, this will be your SLEEVE
LENGTH.

R1: Ch 4, starting from the st where your Ch 4 is, make a TRC-DEC ( yo 2x, insert your hook
into the stitch, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops, * yo once, skip a st, insert your hook into the
next, pull up a loop, pull through 2 loops *, REP * once again.
You should have 5 loops on your hook, pull through 3 loops, 3 loops left on your hook, pull
2 loops, pull 2 loops again.)
Make a TRC-INC in the next st ( yo 2x, make a TRC, * Ch 1, yo once, insert your hook into the
base of your TRC, pull up a loop, make a DC *, REP * once again.)
* Starting from the st, make a TRC-DEC, then make a TRC-INC in the next st *, REP * till the
end of the row. At the end you should have one st left, make a TRC into that st.
Sl st to the 3rd chain of your Ch 4. Turn your work.
NOTE: You’re going to make a decrease in the next round, this is optional though.

DECREASE ROUND ( Optional ) : Ch 4, sk the 1st TRC-DEC from the previous row, * make a
TRC-DEC in the TRC-INC from the previous row ( you’ll be working in the 3rd loop of the DC and
TRC that makes up the TRC-INC, i.e. sk the Ch 1 in the TRC-INC ), TRC-INC in the 3rd loop of
TRC-DEC from previous row *, REP * till you’re almost at the end of the row, sk the last TRC-
DEC from previous row, TRC in the 3rd chain of Ch 4.
Sl st to the 3rd chain of your Ch 4. Turn your work.

You can make more Decrease Rounds. For the short sleeved version, I made 3 Decrease
Rounds.

Continue working the pattern till you reach your SLEEVE LENGTH. Once you’ve gotten to
your desired length, make a round of SC.
I made a total of 43 rounds which was about 19” long

SC ROUND : Ch 1, SC into every st and ch 1 space till the end, sl st to the 1st SC of the round,
Ch 1 and fasten off.
REP the exact same thing for the other Sleeve Opening, make sure the amount of stitches are
the same for both sleeves.

Weave in all loose ends and you’re done.

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