Lace Cap Sleeve Top

GAUGE: 15 stitches and 7 rows in 4”x4”

Odd row: (dc/ch1/dc/skip)

Even row: (dc/ch1/dc/skip/dc5/skip)

Yarn: Hobbii Diablo in Thyme 246 yds- I used 1.5 skeins

total- around 370 yds for size XS

5.25/5.5 mm hook
Front triangles:

chain a number divisible by 3.

*Suggestion based on bust size:

Bust
32-33” (XS): 21 (size pictured)
34-35” (S): 24
36-37” (M): 27
38-39” (L): 30
40-41” (XL): 33
42-44” (1X): 36/39
46-49” (2X): 41/44
50-53” (3X): 47/50/53

row 1: chain 3 more then double crochet into the 6th stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same
stitch. skip 2 stitches and double crochet in the third stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same
stitch.

repeat for the entire row

in the last stitch, only double crochet once in the stitch instead of twice and don’t chain 1.

chain 3 and turn your work

row 2: in every even numbered row we will have “dc clusters” where we will dc 5 in every other
space, rather than dc 2 “Vs”.

dc in the chain 1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. dc 5 times in the next ch1 space. dc in the
next ch1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space.

continue until the end of the row, then double crochet once in the chain 3 post.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 3: because this is an odd row, we will not do any “dc clusters” and we will only do “Vs”.
in clusters from the row before, dc in the 3rd dc of the next dc cluster. ch1 and dc again in the
same stitch. in ch1 spaces, dc in the next ch1 space, ch1, then dc in the same space.

repeat for the rest of the row, then dc in the last chain 3 post.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 4: we will begin decreasing now. remember, on even numbered rows “dc clusters” should
only go above the previous clusters from 2 rows previous.

to decrease, skip the first ch1 space and dc a “cluster” or a “V” in the next ch1 space depending
on what stitch is underneath from your row 2. then continue following the pattern from row 2.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 5: this is an odd numbered row, so we will only be doing “Vs” and not “dc clusters”

repeat the instructions for row 3, not skipping any spaces.

row 6: we will begin decreasing again. remember, on even numbered rows “dc clusters” should
only go above the previous clusters from 2 rows previous.

to decrease, skip the first ch1 space and dc a “cluster” or a “V” in the next ch1 space depending
on what stitch is underneath from your row 2. then continue following the pattern from row 2.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 7: this is an odd numbered row, so we will only be doing “Vs” and not “dc clusters”

repeat the instructions for row 3, not skipping any spaces.

row 8: we will begin decreasing again. remember, on even numbered rows “dc clusters” should
only go above the previous clusters from 2 rows previous.

to decrease, skip the first ch1 space and dc a “cluster” or a “V” in the next ch1 space depending
on what stitch is underneath from your row 2. then continue following the pattern from row 2.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 9: this is an odd numbered row, so we will only be doing “Vs” and not “dc clusters”

repeat the instructions for row 3, not skipping any spaces.

row 10: we will begin decreasing again. remember, on even numbered rows “dc clusters” should
only go above the previous clusters from 2 rows previous.

to decrease, skip the first ch1 space and dc a “cluster” or a “V” in the next ch1 space depending
on what stitch is underneath from your row 2. then continue following pattern from row 2.

chain 3 and turn your work.

continue decreasing on even rows until you have one “dc cluster” left, and one “V” left. Based
on the size you chose, you should have this many rows (XS: 10 / S:12 / M: 14 / L: 16 / XL: 18 /
1X: 20/22 / 2X: 24/26 / 3X: 28/30)
on the odd numbered row after this, we will decrease.

row 11: this is an odd numbered row, so we will only be doing “Vs” and not “dc clusters”

repeat the instructions for row 3, in the first “dc cluster” or “V”. in the next space, the last space,
skip it and dc in the top stitch of the ch3 post.

ch3 and turn your work.

Strap:

counting from where you left off the triangle, repeat odd and even rows with only 1 space in
width. make 1 “dc cluster” in the space in even rows and one “V” in the space on odd rows. dc
at the end of the row, and ch3.

continue until the strap is long enough to reach the top of your
shoulder.

As you can see I did 8 more rows for my strap.

repeat the instructions from the beginning until now to make a second triangle and strap.

front stomach panel:

line up your front triangles together like this, with the pointy ends of the decreasing slopes facing
each other, the straps pointing down, and the flat sides of the bottom lined up to make one long
line:

insert your hook into the very right corner of the right
hand triangle.

row 1: starting at the very right corner of the right

triangle, single crochet along the edge. when you get to
the end of the right triangle, single crochet into the very
right corner of the left triangle. single crochet along the
edge until you get to the end of the left triangle.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 1: double crochet into the 3rd stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. skip 2
stitches and double crochet in the third stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. repeat
for the entire row.
in the last stitch, only double crochet once in the stitch instead of twice and don’t chain 1.

chain 3 and turn your work

row 2: in every even numbered row we will have “dc clusters” where we will dc 5 in every other
space, rather than dc 2 “Vs”.

dc in the first chain 1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. dc 5 times in the next ch1 space. dc in
the next ch1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. alternate each “dc cluster” with a “V” in the next
space.

row 3: because this is an odd row, we will not do any “dc clusters” and we will only do “Vs”.

in clusters, dc in the 3rd dc of the next dc cluster. ch1 and dc again in the same stitch. in ch1
spaces, dc in the next ch1 space, ch1, then dc in the same space.

repeat rows 2 and 3 until the panel is long enough to cover your stomach to your liking. I did 10
rows. For a similar look on larger sizes you may want to do more rows:

Waist
24-25” (XS): 9-10 rows
26-27” (S): 10-11 rows
28-29” (M): 11-12 rows
30.5-32” (L): 12-13 rows
33.5-35” (XL): 13-14 rows
35-37” (1X): 14-16 rows
39-41” (2X): 16-19 rows
43-45” (3X): 20-23 rows
back:

line up your top like this, laid flat with the straps facing up, then make a slip knot on your hook,
and insert it onto the very right stitch of the rightmost strap.

single crochet in every stitch of the strap, it should be 6 stitches. then foundational single
crochet the width of your back in between the straps, divisible by 3.

*This size suggestion will be based on your underbust size:

Underbust
30-32” (XS): 36/39 (size pictured)
32-34” (S): 39/42
34-36” (M): 42/45
36-38” (L): 45/48
38-40” (XL): 48/51
42-44” (1X): 54/57
44-46” (2X): 57/60
46-48” (3X): 60/63

then single crochet into rightmost stitch of the left strap, and single crochet in all 6 of the stitches
on the strap.

chain 3 and turn your work.

row 1: double crochet into the 3rd stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. skip 2
stitches and double crochet in the third stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. repeat
for the entire row.

in the last stitch, only double crochet once in the stitch instead of twice and don’t chain 1.

chain 3 and turn your work

row 2: in every even numbered row we will have “dc clusters” where we will dc 5 in every other
space, rather than dc 2 “Vs”.

dc in the first chain 1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. dc 5 times in the next ch1 space. dc in
the next ch1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. alternate each “dc cluster” with a “V” in the next
space.

row 3: because this is an odd row, we will not do any “dc clusters” and we will only do “Vs”.

in clusters, dc in the 3rd dc of the next dc cluster. ch1 and dc again in the same stitch. in ch1
spaces, dc in the next ch1 space, ch1, then dc in the same space.

repeat rows 2 and 3 until the panel is long enough to reach the same length as the bottom of
your waist panel.

*To do this, add up the number of rows in your front triangle and your strap, plus your front
stomach panel. I did 10 rows in my triangle, plus 8 rows of my strap, and 10 rows of my stomach
panel. This equals 28 rows total for my back.

don’t cut your yarn yet!

fold down the top part onto the bottom part.

continuing where you left off your yarn, chain 1 and single crochet into the next stitch of the
corner that lies on top of the back corner you left off at. like this:
single crochet in every stitch until you get to the end of the panel!

at the end of the panel, single crochet into the aligning corner of the back panel!

single crochet into every stitch until you get to the beginning again!

then cut your yarn and pull through.

Using a darning needle, and the mattress stitch (or whichever joining stitch you prefer better)
sew up both of the sides, starting from the bottom and stopping to leave enough room for your
arm holes at the top.

I left about 7 inches of length open at the top for arm holes!
*Based on your size, you should leave a certain length open for your arm.

Arm (largest point)

8.5-10” (XS): 7 in
9-12” (S): 8 in
11-13” (M): 9 in
12-14” (L): 10 in
13-15” (XL): 10.5 in
14-16” (1X): 11 in
15-18” (2X): 12 in
17-22” (3X) 12-15 in

sleeves:

make a slip knot on your hook, and insert your hook into the bottom of the arm hole, where you
just finished sewing.

row 1: single crochet around the arm hole. It does not need to be a number divisible by 3.
row 2: slip stitch in the first 3 stitches. chain 3, then skip 2 stitches and double crochet in the 3rd
stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. skip 2 stitches and double crochet in the third
stitch. chain 1, double crochet in the same stitch. repeat for the entire row.

when you don't have enough stitches left to continue, simply dc in the next stitch and leave the
last stitch alone.

*for example, if you have 5 stitches left, dc, ch1, dc, in the 3rd stitch, then dc once in the 4th
stitch, and skip the last stitch remaining.

then chain 3 and turn your work.

row 2: in every even numbered row we will have “dc clusters” where we will dc 5 in every other
space, rather than dc 2 “Vs”.

we will also be decreasing, to give a cap sleeve look. so skip the first ch1 space, and dc in the
next chain 1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. dc 5 times in the next ch1 space.

dc in the next ch1 space. ch 1. dc in the same space. alternate each “dc cluster” with a “V” in
the next space.

when you get to the end of the row, skip the last ch1 space and dc one time in the chain 3 post.
ch3 and turn your work.

row 3: because this is an odd row, we will not do any “dc clusters” and we will only do “Vs”.

we will also be decreasing at the beginning and end of this row.

so skip the first ch1 space.

then, in the clusters, dc in the 3rd dc of the next dc cluster. ch1 and dc again in the same stitch.
in ch1 spaces, dc in the next ch1 space, ch1, then dc in the same space.

at the end of the row, skip the last ch1 space or cluster. instead, double crochet once in the ch3
post.

repeat instructions for rows 2 and 3 once each to have 5 rows!

don’t cut your yarn yet, for row 7 we will single crochet in every stitch around the arm hole once
again!

repeat the entire sleeve on the

other side!
neckline:

make a slip knot on your hook.

count 3 rows up from the bottom of your triangles.

here, insert your hook into both sides of the neckline at the top of the 3rd row.
single crochet twice to join these stitches.

don’t cut your yarn yet, chain 2 and half double crochet along the neckline until you get to the
back of the neckline

then single crochet along the back of the neckline.

once you get to the front neckline again, half double crochet until you get back to the beginning.
cut your yarn and pull through. leave a lot of yarn slack if you will be sewing on a bead or a
button optionally in the next step.

embellishment:

optionally, pick a cute bead or button and sew it on at the point where we joined the 2 sides of
the triangles.
sew in the tail ends and you are done!

I hope you enjoyed this pattern, please message me with any questions at
@crittercornercrochet on instagram! If you don't have instagram you can always message me
on ravelry where you got the pattern! <3