Backless Raglan Long-sleeve Top

I am using the Lion Brand Heartland yarn in

Haleakala. It is weight 4 (worsted) and I am using
a 5.25mm hook. Any larger or smaller hook will
work, just adjust your tension accordingly.

Raglan:
We will begin with the raglan. This raglan will
include decreases.
XS: chain 80, X=20, Y=10
S: chain 88, X=22, Y=11
M: chain 96, X=24, Y=12
L: chain 104, X=26, Y=13
XL: chain 112, X=28, Y=14
1X: chain 120, X=30, Y=15
2X: chain 128, X=32, Y=16
3X: chain 136, X=34, Y=17
4X: chain 144, X= 36, Y=18
Chain the amount listed for your size. Do not join
your last stitch to your first stitch.
Row 1: chain 1 more. Single crochet the amount Y
listed for your size, starting in the first stitch and
continuing for the next Y stitches. Ch 2. Single crochet the amount X listed for your size. Ch2.
single crochet the amount X. Ch2. single crochet the amount X. Ch2. single crochet the amount
Y. Chain 1 and turn your work.
Row 2: Single crochet decrease into the first 2 stitches. You should then single crochet in the
remaining stitches until the chain 2 space, which should equal the amount Y -1 (minus one)
listed for your size, including the single crochet you just did in your decrease. Single crochet in
the ch 2 space. Ch 2. Single crochet in the ch 2 space. Single crochet X. single crochet in the ch
2 space. Ch 2. Single crochet in the ch 2 space. Single crochet X. single crochet in the ch 2
space. Ch 2. Single crochet in the ch 2 space. Single crochet X. single crochet in the ch 2
space. Ch 2. Single crochet in the ch 2 space. Single crochet Y. Chain 1 and turn you work.
You should have 2 Y sections (one on each end), and 3 X sections in the middle.
Repeat this for every row, but instead of crocheting the amounts X and Y, just decrease in the
first 2 stitches, while single crocheting/ch2/single crocheting in the ch 2 spaces. You should be
increasing 7 stitches every row- increasing 8, decreasing 1.
Continue until the height is long enough to reach your armpit when pulled down to fit snugly
against the back of your neck.
 *gauge: 13
stitches and 17
rows in 4 inches,
using worsted
weight yarn and
a 5.25mm hook
for single crochet

*Here is a suggestion of many rows you may need based on your arm size and how many I did:
I did 10 rows for a 9” arm circumference.
Arm (largest point)
8.5-10” (XS): 9-10 rows
9-12” (S): 10-11 rows
11-13” (M): 11-12 rows
12-14” (L): 12-13 rows
13-15” (XL): 13-14 rows
14-16” (1X): 14-15 rows
15-18” (2X): 15-17 rows
17-22” (3X): 17-20 rows

Back:
You should have ended off at the end of the row in the back of your raglan, where the opening
is. Here, we will chain 1 and turn your work.
Row 1: single crochet decrease in the first 2 stitches, then single crochet until the chain 2 space.
Single crochet once in the space, then chain 1, and turn your work.
Row 2: single crochet in each stitch. Chain 1 and turn your work.
Row 3: single crochet decrease in the first 2 stitches, then single crochet until the end of the
row. Then chain 1, and turn your work.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have a long enough piece to connect to the front piece under
your armpit, when wrapped around your shoulder.
*Here is a suggestion of how many rows this would be based on your size:
I did 8 rows for a size small, 9” arm circumference.
Arm (largest point)
8.5-10” (XS): 7-8 rows
9-12” (S): 8-9 rows
11-13” (M): 9-10 rows
12-14” (L): 10-11 rows
13-15” (XL): 11-12 rows
14-16” (1X): 12-13 rows
15-18” (2X): 13-15 rows
17-22” (3X): 15-18 rows
Cut your yarn and pull through.

To repeat this on the other side, insert your hook onto the sloping end of the other back panel.

Row 1: single crochet decrease in the first 2 stitches, then single crochet until the chain 2 space.
Single crochet once in the space, then chain 1, and turn your work.
Row 2: single crochet in each stitch. Chain 1 and turn your work.
Row 3: single crochet decrease in the first 2 stitches, then single crochet until the end of the
row. Then chain 1, and turn your work.
*Repeat rows 2 and 3 until you have the same number of rows and stitches as you did on the
previous side.

Don't cut your yarn on this side, we will continue to the bust portion from here.
Chain 1, and turn your work.
Row 1: single crochet decrease in the first 2 stitches, then single crochet until the end of the
row. Skip the next section of stitches by single crocheting directly into the chain 2 space of the
front corner.

Single crochet in each stitch until the chain 2 space. Single crochet once in the space, then skip
the next section of stitches by single crocheting in the corresponding back corner.
Continue single crocheting until the end of the row, then chain 1 and turn your work.
Row 2: decrease in the first 2 stitches. single crochet in every stitch, then chain 1 and turn your
work.
Row 3: decrease in the first 2 stitches. single crochet in every stitch, then chain 1 and turn your
work.
Row 4: decrease in the first 2 stitches. single crochet in every stitch, then chain 1 and turn your
work.
*If you are happy with the amount of decreases, move on to row 5. If you want to make more
decreasing rows, this will widen the width of the backless cut-out. Once you are happy, move
onto the instructions for row 5 where you will stop decreasing.

Row 5: single crochet in every stitch of the row, without decreasing.

Continue repeating this row until your panel is long enough to reach your underbust.
*When you count the number of rows for this section, we are including the first row we made
connecting the arm holes. this picture is an example of which row to begin counting at:
*Here is a suggestion of how many rows you may need total (including the decreasing rows 1-4)
based on your bust size: I did 21 rows for size in between x-small and small
Bust
32-33” (XS):19-21
34-35” (S): 21-23
36-37” (M): 23-24
38-39” (L): 24-25
40-41” (XL): 25-26
42-44” (1X): 26-28
46-49” (2X): 29-31
50-53” (3X): 32-34

Waist:
chain length from under bust to waist.
*size suggestion: This is up to personal preference of how cropped you want the sweater to be!
I chained 18 and I am a size small, this length may work for you no matter what size you are.
row 1: chain 3 more, then double crochet in the 4th stitch. double crochet in every remaining
stitch, then chain 3 and turn your work.
row 2: double crochet in the back loops only for every stitch. chain 3 and turn your work at the
end of the row.
repeat row 2 until the panel is wide enough to wrap around your rib cage.

*gauge: you should

have 5 rows and 14
stitches in 4 inches
with worsted weight
yarn and 5.25mm
hook

*Here is a suggestion of how many rows you may need total based on your underbust size: I did
36 rows for size extra small
Underbust
30-32” (XS): 36-38
32-34” (S): 38-40
34-36” (M): 40-43
36-38” (L): 43-46
38-40” (XL): 46-49
42-44” (1X): 49-52
44-46” (2X): 52-55
46-48” (3X): 55-58

sew it together to make a tube!

Sleeves:
chain the length of your arm. chain an additional 12 chains if you want to fold up the bottom of
your sleeves like mine are.
*I am chaining 90. This is 26 inches in length, un-stretched. I have long arms (22 inches) and I
will be cuffing the bottom of the sleeves.
row 1: chain 3 more, then double crochet in the 4th stitch. double crochet in every remaining
stitch, then chain 3 and turn your work.
row 2: double crochet in the back loops only for every stitch. chain 3 and turn your work.
repeat row 2 until the panel is wide enough to wrap around the widest part of your arm (bicep).

*gauge: double crochet 13

stitches and 7 rows in 4
inches UNSTRETCHED.
using weight 4 yarn and
5.25mm hook

*Here is a suggestion of how many rows to do based on your bicep size:

I did 13 rows for size XS/S (9 inches)
Arm (largest point)
8.5-10” (XS): 12-14
9-12” (S): 13-17
11-13” (M): 16-19
12-14” (L): 17-20
13-15” (XL): 19-22
14-16” (1X): 21-24
15-18” (2X): 23-26
17-22” (3X): 25-32

Make 2 of these!

Assemble:
sew both sleeves into tubes by sewing the long sides together.

attach the sleeves to the arm holes of the raglan. (You will probably need to stretch the sleeves
while sewing for it to fit, since they are compressed. To do this, insert your needle in closer
together spots each time you insert into the double crochet sleeve, and farther apart spots on
the single crochet shoulder side. Hopefully that makes sense!)

attach the waistband to the bottom of the raglan.

*optional
fold up the end of the sleeves 2.5 inches, and sew it down at 2 points on opposite ends of the
cuff.
I won’t sew it down the entire length, because it won’t look folded anymore.

keyhole bow:

insert your hook into the top

pointy end of the keyhole. starting
at the top of the keyhole, without
chaining any, half double crochet
around the hole until you get to
the other end.

Next, slip stitch into the top of every half double crochet stitch to
tighten them up, if your keyhole back gaps like mine does.
I-cord:
chain 2, then pull up both loops on your hook and make an
i-cord with a width of 2 stitches.
crochet until the i-cord is long enough to tie into a bow.

assemble:
loop the i-cord into the stitch on the very end of one point on
the back keyhole, then weave it in to one side of the top of the
keyhole, then weave the other side into the other top end of
the keyhole. pull it through until both ends have equal length
coming out towards you, and tie them into a bow.

bottom border:
insert your hook at any point along the bottom of the ribbed
waist panel.
without chaining up any, loosely half double crochet frequently
along the bottom edge. do not skip too much space in between
your stitches, because it will tighten the border.

sew your tail ends in and you’re done!!! I hope you enjoyed this pattern,
if you have any questions please message me on my instagram,
@crittercornercrochet <3