Ivy Top Written Crochet Pattern

IVY TOP
by Sunshines & Crafts
Difficulty Level: Advanced Beginner

This is a graded pattern for the Ivy Top which resembles a Sabrina-like neckline on the front with an open deep-V tie back
design. This top is easy to style especially during the warm season. The top is made using wattle stitch. It is worked in
three panels (1 front and 2 back) that are easily connected together using single crochet stitches. Instructions on how to
customize the pattern based on different body types are also included here.

*The sample shown above is size S (bust - 32”; waist - 27”) created using 180g of sport weight, locally hand-dyed cotton yarn from
Hirayah Crafts (Cebu, Philippines).

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Materials
● Hook 3.5mm
● Sport weight yarn
○ XS - S 150-200g
○ M - L - 200-250g
○ XL - XXL - 250-300g
● Tape measure
● Stitch markers
● Scissors
● Row counter (optional but since wattle stitch is difficult to count, a row counter will be helpful in determining
your number of rows.

Pattern Guide
● All texts including photos are to be read from left to right.
● This pattern is divided into 2 parts: (1) Front Panel and (2) Back panels.
● Both panels are worked starting from the top going down. Row 1 is the 1st row from the straps.
● When a total number of rows is indicated in this pattern, this means including the 1st row from the straps
● Ch1 at the start of each row does not count as a stitch.
● The number of stitches per size follows: XS, S (M, L) { XL, XXL}
● The number of rows per size follows: XS, S (M, L) {XL, XXL}
● Take note of your size based on the measurements table provided in this pattern.

Measurements
All measurements below are expressed in inches.

Part XS S M L XL XXL
Bust 28-30 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50
Waist 23-26 26-28 28-32 32-36 36-40 40-44
Armhole depth 6.5 7 7.5 8 8.5 9
From the edge of one
10.5 11.5 12.5 13.5 14.5 15.5
strap to another
Neckline 5.5 6.5 6.5 7.5 7.5 8

If your measurements fall in between or outside the categories specified above, choose the one that is closer to all your
measurements. Since there are different body types, customization instructions are also provided here. It is
recommended that you try the top on as you go to ensure a good fit. However, please keep in mind that wattle stitch
also tends to stretch a little bit when worn so it is best that you consider the stretch when fitting.

NOTE: This top is ideal for a cropped fit. To keep the shape and form of the open deep V back design, the
recommended length of the top is at least 1-2 inches above the navel OR a few inches before your waist starts to
curve back out.

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Gauge
2 x 2 inches = 9 rows x 4 wattle stitches
Steps on how to do the wattle stitch are specified in the next section.

To make the gauge swatch:

Chain 30 then proceed to Step 2 below under the instructions “How to do the Wattle Stitch”
Follow the steps until you have at least 12 rows.
Measure if 2 x 2 inches corresponds to 9 rows x 4 wattle stitches.

HOW TO DO THE WATTLE STITCH

The wattle stitch is composed of a cluster of sc, ch and dc separated by 2sts, with sc on both ends of the row.
1 cluster of sc-ch-dc = 1 ws

Row 1:
Step 1. Create a slip knot. Chain in multiples of 3.
Step 2. Sc on the 2nd ch from the hook. On the next ch, make sc-ch1-dc. These 3 stitches (sc-ch1-dc) are all placed
together in 1ch.

Step 3. *Skip 2 ch then make sc-ch1-dc on the next*. Repeat ** until you reach the last 3 chains of the row.

Step 4. When you reach the last 3 chains, skip 2 then sc on the last ch.

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Row 2:
Step 5. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row.

Step 6. Make sc-ch1-dc on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of the 1st sc that you made from the previous row.

From this point on, we will be referring to the sc-ch1-dc cluster as ws. Throughout this pattern, you will be repeating
steps 5 and 6 (Row 2) with a few increases and decreases on some rows.

PART 1: FRONT PANEL

Step 1: Create a slip knot. Ch 18, 18 (24, 24) {30, 30}. This chain corresponds to the
thickness of the strap. You may add more stitches in multiples of 3 if you wish to make
the straps thicker.

Step 2. Sc on the 2nd ch from the hook. *On the next ch, make a ws then skip 2 ch*.
Repeat ** until you reach the last 3 chains of the row. When you reach the last 3 chains,
skip 2 then sc on the last ch. (This counts as your 1st row). Total ws - 5, 5 ( 7, 7) {9, 9}.

Step 3. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row.
Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made
from your previous row.

Step 4. Repeat Step 3 until you make a total of 6, 7 (8, 9) {10, 11} rows. This will
be the length of your strap. You may adjust this depending on your preferences
or if you tend to have a longer upper body by adding rows in multiples of 2.
Keep in mind, however, that the wattle stitch tends to stretch lengthwise
especially once worn. Consider the stretch when measuring.

Step 5. Once you reach the last sc on your last row, ch 31, 37 (31, 37) {31, 37}.
Use a stitch marker to hold your last chain and cut off your yarn leaving a small
tail of 1-2 inches. You will be attaching this chain to your second strap via a slip stitch. The length of the connecting chain

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corresponds to your neckline. You may adjust the length by decreasing/increasing the number of chains specified in this
pattern in multiples of 3.
Step 6. Repeat Steps 1-4 for the second strap. Do not cut the yarn yet. This will be your working yarn after you attach the
straps together.

Step 7. Both of your straps should be facing you the same way when you connect them. Take the chain from the 1st strap
(make sure that the chain is not twisted) and sl st on the 1st sc of the last row of the 2nd strap you created. Fasten off
then return to the working yarn from Step 6.

Step 8. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space until you reach the last
ch1 space of the strap.

Step 9. You will now start working on the connecting chain. Skip the sc after the last ch1 space of the strap, then make a
ws on the 1st ch after the sc. *Skip 2ch then make a ws on the next.* Repeat ** until you reach the end of the
connecting chain.

Step 10. When you reach the other strap, skip sc then make a ws on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of the sc that
you made from your previous row. Total ws - 21, 23 (25, 27) {29, 31}

Step 11. Ch 1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of
the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row (non-increase row).

Repeat Step 11 (non-increase row) for 4 more rows. Total rows - 12, 13 (14, 15) {16, 17)

Step 12. For your next row, mark the 4th ch1 space from both ends of the row. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc
that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space until you reach the marker. Make 2 ws on the same

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ch1 space. Then continue making 1 ws on every ch1 space until you reach the other marker. Make 2 ws again on the
same ch1 space. Then continue making 1 ws on every ch1 space until you reach the end of the row. Sc on top of the sc
that you made from your previous row. Total ws - 23, 25 (27, 29) {31, 33}.

Repeat Step 11 (non-increase row) for 13, 14 (15, 16) {17, 18} more rows . Total rows - 26, 28 (30, 32) {34, 36} rows.
For the next rows, you will start working on the armhole and chest by making increases on both ends of the row and the
body.

Step 13. You will be making increases on 4 stitches - the sc on both ends of the row for the
armhole, and the 7th, 8th (8th, 9th) {9th, 10th} ch1 space from both ends of the row for the
bust. Mark these ch1 spaces.

Note: The marked ch1-spaces should ideally fall on the middle part of each breast area
(refer to the red star on the illustration) so if you adjusted your number of ws, you might
also need to adjust the position of the marked ch-1 spaces.

Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc made from the previous row. Make a ws on that same st where you put the sc.

Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row

until you reach the marker. Make 2 ws on the
same ch1 space. Then continue making 1 ws
on every ch1 space until you reach the other
marker. Make 2 ws again on the same ch1
space. Then continue making 1 ws on every
ch1 space until you reach the end of the row.
When you reach the sc that you made from
your previous row, make another ws and
another sc on that same st (increase row).
Total ws - 27, 29 (31, 33) {35, 37}.

Step 14. Repeat Step 11 (non-increase row).

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Step 15. Repeat Step 13 (increase row). This is the last increase for the armhole. Check how the top fits so far, you may
adjust this part depending on your preferences by decreasing or increasing the number of rows. If you wish to increase
your number of rows, make sure you do alternating increase and non-increase rows like what you have done from Steps
13-15. If you are already satisfied with the size of your armhole, mark both ends of your last increase row with a stitch
marker. It will help you later when connecting the panels together. Total ws - 31, 33 (35, 37) {39, 41}.

Note: Although there is a recommended measurement

for armhole depth per size (page 2), it is still best to
check if the measurement matches your body as no
one size fits all. Aside from fitting the top, another tip
to get your ideal armhole depth is by comparing it
against a top that fits you well.

Step 16. Repeat Step 11 (non-increase row). Total rows - 30, 32 (34, 36) {38, 40}.

Step 17. The next rows will be a series of increase and non-increase rows for the bust area. The table below summarizes
the increase instructions for the odd-numbered rows/ increase rows. On the other hand, the even-numbered rows (not
written below) will be the non-increase rows (repeat step 11 for these rows). You may decrease the number of increases
if you are less bustier, or you may size up if you are bustier. It is best to try the top on as you
go.

Note: Same as what you did in Step 13, the marked ch1-spaces should ideally fall on the
middle part of each breast area so if you adjusted your number of ws, you might also need
to adjust the position of the marked ch-1 spaces here. Refer to the green stars in the
illustration for rows where there are 4 marked ch 1 spaces.

Row Total number

Size Increase Instructions
number of ws
XS Row 31 Increase on the 7th ch1 space from both ends of the row 33
S Row 33 Increase on the 6th and 11th ch1 space from both ends of the row 37
M Row 35 Increase on the 6th and 11th ch1 space from both ends of the row 39
Row 37 Increase on the 8th ch1 space from both ends of the row 41
L Row 37 Increase on the 7th and 12th ch1 space from both ends of the row 41
Row 39 Increase on the 7th and 12th ch1 space from both ends of the row 45
XL Row 39 Increase on the 7th and 12th ch1 space from both ends of the row 43
Row 41 Increase on the 7th and 12th ch1 space from both ends of the row 47
Row 43 Increase on the 9th ch1 space from both ends of the row 49
XXL Row 41 Increase on the 8th and 13th ch1 space from both ends of the row 45
Row 43 Increase on the 8th and 13th ch1 space from both ends of the row 49
Row 45 Increase on the 8th and 13th ch1 space from both ends of the row 53

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Step 18. Repeat Step 11 (non-increase row) until you reach the widest part of your bust/ nipple area. After this, you will
start doing the decreases to fit your underbust and waist.

Step 19. Ch1. Flip your work. Mark the 7th, 8th (8th, 9th) {9th, 10th} ch1 space from the right end of your row (the end
where your hook is) then mark the 8th, 9th (9th, 10th) {10th, 11th} ch1 space from the other end of your row. Sc on top
of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row until you reach the marker.
Sc2tog on the marked ch1 space and its adjacent ch1 space. Then ch1-dc on the same ch1
space where you made the sc2tog.

Note: The marked ch1 spaces here should be aligned to where you did the increase. So
if you adjusted marked ch1 space for increases, you might also need to adjust the
position of the ch-1 spaces here. Refer to the blue stars in the illustration.

How to do the sc2tog:

(Note: The “st” mentioned below also refers to the ch1 space)

Then continue making 1 ws on every ch1 space until you reach the other marker. Sc2tog on the marked ch1 space and its
adjacent ch1 space. Then ch1-dc on the same ch1 space where you made the sc2tog. Then continue making 1 ws on
every ch1 space until you reach the end of the row. Sc on top of the sc from the previous row (decrease row). Total ws -
31, 35 (39, 43) {47, 51}.

Step 20. Repeat Step 11 (non-decrease row).

Step 21. Repeat Step 19 (decrease row). Total ws - 29, 33 (37, 41) {45, 49}.

Step 22. Repeat Step 11 (non-decrease row).

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Step 23. Repeat Step 19 but this time, there will be decreases on 4 ch1 spaces. Mark these ch1 spaces following the
table below.

Size From the right end (where the hook is) From the left end Total number of ws

XS 5th, 10th 6th, 11th 25

S 6th, 11th 7th, 12th 29
M 6th, 11th 7th, 12th 33
L 7th, 12th 8th, 13th 37
XL 7th, 12th 8th, 13th 41
XXL 8th, 13th 9th, 14th 45

Note: Try the top on (stretch it a little bit when trying the fit) and check if the edges of
the front panel fall on the midline of the side of your body (see the red line). This is the
ideal fit for the top.

Step 24. Repeat Step 11 (non-decrease row).

- For size XS, check the fit. If the edges of the front panel fall outside (bigger)
than the midline, repeat Step 19 (decrease row) one more time. If you are
already happy with the fit, you can skip the additional increase and continue by
doing Step 11 (non-decrease row) until you reach your desired length which
should ideally be 1-2 inches above the navel or just before your waist starts to
curve back out. Make sure your total number of rows (including the rows from the straps) is an odd number. Cut
the yarn and fasten off. Proceed to part 2.
- For other sizes, continue doing the next steps.

Step 25. Repeat Step 23 (decrease row). Total ws - x, 25 (29, 33) {37, 41}.

Step 26. Repeat Step11 (non-decrease row).

- For size S, continue doing the non-decrease row until you reach your desired length which should ideally be 1-2
inches above the navel or just before your waist starts to curve back out. Make sure your total number of rows
(including the rows from the straps) is an odd number. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Proceed to part 2.
- For other sizes, continue doing the next steps.

Step 27. Repeat Step 19 (decrease row). Total ws - x, x (27, 31) {35, 39}.

Step 28. Repeat Step 11 (non-decrease row).

- For sizes M and XXL, continue doing the non-decrease row until you reach your desired length which should
ideally be 1-2 inches above the navel or just before your waist starts to curve back out. Make sure your total
number of rows (including the rows from the straps) is an odd number. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Proceed to
part 2.
- For other sizes, continue doing the next steps.

Step 29. Repeat Step 19 (decrease row). Total ws - x, x (x, 29) {33, x}.

Step 30. Repeat Step 11 (non-decrease row).

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- For size L and XL, continue doing the non-decrease row until you reach your desired length which should ideally
be 1-2 inches above the navel or just before your waist starts to curve back out. Make sure your total number of
rows (including the rows from the straps) is an odd number. Cut the yarn and fasten off. Proceed to part 2.

PART 2: BACK PANELS

Step 1: Create a slip knot. Ch 18, 18 (24, 24) {30, 30}. Your number of ch here should
be the same as the number of ch you did for the straps of the front panel.

Step 2. Sc on the 2nd ch from the hook. *On the next ch, make a ws then skip 2 ch*.
Repeat ** until you reach the last 3 chains of the row. When you reach the last 3
chains, skip 2 then sc on the last ch. (This counts as your 1st row). Total ws - 5, 5 (7, 7)
{9, 9}.

Step 3. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row.
Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your
previous row.

Note: If you added rows to your front panel strap, add a similar number of rows to the back panel under Step 8.
However, since the addition of rows should be in multiples of 2 (as mentioned in page 4), the total number of rows you
should end up with after this step should be an even number.

For size XS, proceed to Step 8

For sizes S-XXL only:

Step 4. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row) until you make a total of 3 rows.

Step 5. Ch 1. Flip your work. For your 4th row, mark the 3rd ch1 space from the right end of the row (it is the end where
your hook is). Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row until
you reach the marker. Make 2 ws on the same ch1 space. Then continue making 1 ws on every ch1 space until you reach
the end of the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row (increase row). Total ws - x, 6 (8, 8) {10,
10}.

For sizes S - XL, proceed to Step 8

For size XXL only:

Step 6. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row) until you make a total of 9 rows.

Step 7. Ch 1. Flip you work. For your next row, mark the 5th ch1 space from the right end of the row (it is the end where
your hook is). Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row until
you reach the marker. Make 2 ws on the same ch1 space. Then continue making 1 ws on every ch1 space until you reach
the end of the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row (increase row). Total ws - x , x (x, x) {x, 11}.

Step 8. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row) until you make a total of 20, 22 (24, 24) {26, 26} rows. If you added more rows
to your front panel strap, add them under this step.

Step 9. Ch1. Flip your work. You will now start working on the armhole. For the next row, you will be making an increase
on the sc on the right end of the row (it is the end where your hook is). Sc on top of the sc that you made from the

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previous row. Make a ws on that same st where you put the sc. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of
the sc that you made from your previous row (increase row). Total ws - 6, 7 (9, 9) {11, 12}.

Step 10. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row).

Step 11. Follow the table below for the next increases per size.
- Take note that the odd-numbered rows as listed below are the increase rows. For these rows, simply repeat
Step 9.
- On the other hand, the even- numbered rows (not mentioned in the table) are the non-increase rows. For these
rows, repeat Step 3.
Size Increase rows Total number of ws
XS 23, 25, 27, 29 7, 8, 9, 10
S 25, 27, 29, 31 8, 9, 10, 11
M 27, 29, 31, 33 10, 11, 12, 13
L 27, 29, 31, 33, 35 10, 11, 12, 13, 14
XL 29, 31, 33, 35, 37 12, 13, 14, 15, 16
XXL 29, 31, 33, 35, 37, 39 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18

The same as what you did in the front panel, do not forget to add a stitch marker on your last increase row.

Step 12. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row) for 4 more rows. Total rows - 33, 35 (37,
39) {41, 43}.

Step 13. Ch1. Flip your work. At this point, your hook should be positioned on the
side of the panel opposite to the arm hole. Sc on top of the sc that you made from
the previous row. For the first 2, 3 (4, 5) {6, 7} ch 1 spaces, make an sc-ch1-sc in
each ch1 space instead of making a ws. Make a ws on each remaining ch1 space of
the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row.

Step 14. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous
row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row except for the last 2, 3 (4, 5) {6, 7} ch
1 spaces where you previously made sc-ch1-sc. Put another sc-ch1-sc in each ch1
space. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row.

Step 15. Repeat Steps 13-14 for 2, 2 (4, 4) {6, 6} more rows. Total rows - 37, 39 (43,
45) {49, 51}.
e.g. For size S, When we say 2 more rows, it means:
1 row Step 13 + 1 row Step 14 = 2 rows

Step 16. Repeat Step 3 (non-increase row) until you reach the last 6, 8 (8, 10) {10, 12} rows.
e.g. For size S, my front panel has a total of 55 rows.
55-8 = 47
So I will repeat Step 3 until I have 47 rows.

Step 17. For the next rows, you will start working on the ties. Since your previous row is an
odd number, your hook should be positioned on the side opposite to the armhole (refer to
the red star in the illustration). Ch 60. If you want to be able to make a ribbon from your ties,
make a longer chain in multiples of 3.

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Step 18. Sc on the 2nd ch from the hook. *On the next ch, make a ws then skip 2 ch*. Repeat ** until you reach the sc
from the previous row. Skip sc. Make a ws on every ch1 space of the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your
previous row.

Step 19. Ch1. Flip your work. Sc on top of the sc that you made from the previous row. Make a ws on every ch1 space of
the row. Sc on top of the sc that you made from your previous row.

Step 20. Repeat Step 19 until your total number of rows for the back panel is similar to the number of rows of your front
panel. Ch1. Cut the yarn then fasten off.

Repeat Steps 1-20 of the back panel to create the panel for the other side.

Connect all the panels together (sides and straps) using sc. For the sides, connect them starting from the bottom edge
until you reach the stitch just before the last increase row where you placed the stitch markers.

Optional: You may also add an sc edging all throughout the top if you want the edges to be more refined.

Congratulations! You have finished creating the Ivy top!

ADDITIONAL TIPS
If your back panels are drooping when worn, here are the following suggestions that you
can try:
1. Decrease the overall length of the top. Make sure that it is a few inches above
the navel.
2. Make thicker back ties. In this case, you will need to add more rows in multiples
of 2 for your back ties. So if under Step 16 you created 8 rows for the ties, you
can try making 10 rows instead.
3. Mark the parts where there is drooping, add an sc edging and when you reach
the drooping parts, make a few sc2tog to pinch the drooping parts.

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This pattern is limited for personal use only. By purchasing this, you are under agreement that no part of this pattern
shall be shared, copied, altered, sold or distributed.

However, finished products created using this pattern can be sold but please don’t forget to give credits to me for the
pattern. Kindly tag me (@sunshinesandcrafts) in both your photos and posts.

Feel free to send me a message on Instagram if you have any questions about this pattern. I would also love to hear your
thoughts and see your photos of the finished products! Tag me (@sunshinesandcrafts) in any of your photos and posts!

Thank you!

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