Sunrise Cardigan
by Lizzie Kelso
This document contains the charts
for this cardigan, along with some
notes I took. These are not
complete instructions on how to
make this, and there will be no
help with sizing. That is why this
is free!
Finished measurements:
length from back of neck: 21”
width across back: 16”
around torso: 37”
sleeve length from top of shoulder:
27”
around widest part of sleeve: 13.5”
Supplies:
• 4 buttons, 0.75” diameter
• thread for the buttons
• you can paint your buttons if
  you want! wood buttons are
  good for that, just put some
  sealant on them after painting
• tapestry needle, for weaving in
  ends
• optional: crochet hook - I like
  this for picking up stitches for
  doing the neck ribbing
• optional: blocking mat and pins - I blocked the body panels before sewing them together
Needles:
• US 4 / 3.5 mm - for ribbing
  • Flat needles for the ribbing on the body
  • Double pointed needles for knitting the cuffs in the round
  • Circular needles for knitting ribbing around neck, need a long cord
• US 8 / 5.0 mm - for the stockinette stitches
  • Flat needles for knitting the body
  • Double pointed needles for the sleeves
    • you can knit the sleeves entirely flat, but I like not having a seam for the first couple inches
1”x1” gauge = 4 sts and 6 rows
Yarn:
• Lion Brand Vanna’s Choice in:
  • Mustard
  • Beige
  • Honey
  • Pink
  • Silver Blue
  • Dusty Blue
  • Silver Gray
  • Charcoal Gray
  • Kelly Green
You can get away with 1 ball of each color, but you might want a second ball of Kelly green,
charcoal gray, and silver blue.
        If picking your own colors, hold them all together and make sure you like the way they
all look next to each other!
To read the charts:
         Work starting at the bottom right corner.
         Cast on with 3.5 mm needles and charcoal gray, working in k1p1 ribbing. Follow the
charted colors for about 2 inches of ribbing. Switch needles to 5.0 mm and work in stockinette
stitch, continuing to follow the color charts.
         The red areas indicate shaping, like armholes, neck holes, and sleeve shaping. You may
need to adjust where you do the increases or decreases, these are just guidelines. If you move the
armholes or the shoulder shaping, though, the colors might not line up.
Back Panel
Front Panels - dotted red line indicates the center. Knit in 2 pieces
Left Sleeve
Right Sleeve
Finishing:
• Block the two front panels and the back panel.
• Weave in all the ends (it took me days to complete this step, I recommend doing it as you go).
  • I’ve found that it helps to either weave them in straight up and down, or at a 45° angle. This
    keeps the fabric from getting weirdly stretched out
  • I’ve also found that it helps to twist yarns around each other as you change color, it helps
    reduce the holes.
  • Wherever there are holes, you can fill them in with duplicate stitches
• Sew the front panels to the back at the sides and the shoulders. Use yarn that matches each
  piece you’re sewing
• Pick up stitches around the neck opening and the front panels with 3.5 mm needles
• Knit in k1p1 ribbing for 1 inch. If you want buttons, remember to put in button holes
• Sew up the sides of the sleeves, using yarn that matches the spot you’re sewing
• Attach sleeves to the front and back panels
• Paint buttons. It may help to lightly sand buttons before painting them, so the paint sticks
  better, then spray varnish them or something to seal them up after.
• Sew on buttons using thread that matches button color
Back Panel with Grid
Front Panels with Grid
Left Sleeve with Grid
Right Sleeve with Grid