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Disaster Top by LE PULL

The Disaster Top is a knitted garment worked from the bottom up using circular needles, with specific instructions for body, yoke, and sleeves. It is available in multiple sizes, with a recommended negative ease for a tighter fit, and includes detailed yarn requirements and gauge information. The pattern also provides various techniques and stitch instructions, along with links to video tutorials for guidance.

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PetiKna
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100% found this document useful (3 votes)
7K views10 pages

Disaster Top by LE PULL

The Disaster Top is a knitted garment worked from the bottom up using circular needles, with specific instructions for body, yoke, and sleeves. It is available in multiple sizes, with a recommended negative ease for a tighter fit, and includes detailed yarn requirements and gauge information. The pattern also provides various techniques and stitch instructions, along with links to video tutorials for guidance.

Uploaded by

PetiKna
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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LE PULL


ABOUT THE PATTERN
The Disaster Top is worked bottom up on circular needles. First, work the body, then the front of the yoke, then the back of the yoke,
then sew the shoulders. Work the sleeves in the round then sew them to the top. Finally work ruffles along the body and the yokes.

SIZES
S (M) L (XL)
Sizes above correspond with the following chest circumference:
81-86 (87-92) 93-98 (99-104) cm
Measure your own chest circumference to determine which size will fit you the best. If you run between 2 sizes, we recommend to
choose the size up.

MEASUREMENTS
The Disaster Top is designed to have approx. 25 cm of negative ease when measured under the armpit. Meaning the fit should be
approx. 25 cm smaller in circumference than your actual bust measurements. The Disaster Top is tight, so if you want to be more
comfortable, we recommend knitting one size up.
Photos above: Size S / 168 cm tall / Chest circumference: 90 cm
NOTE: On the photos above, I'm wearing size S, but based on my bust size, size M would have been a better fit. During the test,
some of my testknitters added extra rows to the body lenght. Check the measurements on diagram page 8 before beginning work.

YARN AND MATERIALS


Approx. 250 (300) 350 (400) g of Fine Merino from Majo Garn [ 50 g = 175 m ], Color: Sunset
Circular needles 3 mm [ 80 & 100 cm ]
Circular needles 3,5 mm [ 80 cm ]
Crochet Hook 4 mm
Tapestry needle

GAUGE
Gauge before blocking: 21 sts x 34 rows =10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch, on needlesize 3,5 mm
Gauge after blocking: 23 sts x 30 rows = =10 x 10 cm in Stockinette Stitch, on needlesize 3,5 mm
Make a swatch to achieve the same gauge as indicated above. Needle size is only a guide. If you get too many stitches on
10 cm = 4”, change to a larger needle size. If you get too few stitches on 10 cm = 4”, change to a smaller needle size.

ABBREVIATIONS
cn: circular needle - ndls: needles - rs: right side - ws: wrong side - r: rows - k: knit - p: purl - w: work - st: stitch - sts: stitches -
rep: repeat - sm: slip marker - pm: place marker - sl1p wyif: slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front - k1tbl: knit one throught the back
loop - yo: yarn over

STITCHES & TECHNIQUES


PROVISIONAL CAST-ON
https://www.instagram.com/reel/CpP5FmAIHf0/
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NC_K7rghvXI

STOCKINETTE STITCH BACK AND FORTH


Row 1 (RS): knit all sts
Row 2 (WS): purl all sts
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jDkmzq5_UGI

STOCKINETTE STITCH IN THE ROUND


* Knit all sts around * rep *_* on every rounds
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=99NXt42mGZc

EDGE STITCH
Row 1 (RS): slip 1 purwlise with yarn in front, place the yarn back, work in pattern to end of row.
Row 2 (WS): slip 1 purlwise with yarn in front, work in pattern to last stitch, k1.

YARN OVER TO THE FRONT


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9guSj3Bo4zU

PICK UP AND KNIT STITCHES


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=htAHtNnuE7Q&t=93s

SLOPED BIND OFF


This bind off will be used to bind of the tummy stitches.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=A3rD1v4NbKQ&list=PLbMFGD-9KHbI8u8FdoJleD2ybcuZLzSOb&index=22
CLASSIC BIND OFF
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZLoCXEtohIE

LONG TAIL CAST-ON


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=SXA3gBNiSiM

INCREASES
M1R: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this strand.
M1L: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit this strand through
the back loop (twisted).
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2nf-iBQJCV8

HOW TO BIND OFF THE LAST STITCH OF A ROW


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Vvc_bbGKbaA

PATTERN
Read all the instructions above and watch the video tutorials before beginning your work. All the instructions and videos used for
this pattern are English knitting techniques.
The left and right sides are shown as when the top is worn.

FOLDED HEM
Start the work with a provisional cast-on. Use a different color yarn than the one used for your project. Later on in the pattern,
you will place the stitches back on needles and then completely remove the contrasting thread as it is not further part of the top.
The contrasting thread should be approximately the same thickness as the yarn that will be used to knit the Disaster Top.

With a contrasting thread of yarn, a crochet hook 4 mm, and with the 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles, cast-on 138 (152) 166
(180) sts using the provisional cast-on method (video tutorial page 2). Break the contrasting thread, and from now, use the chosen
yarn to knit the top as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Knit all sts


Row 2 (WS): Sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1
Row 3 (RS): Sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k all sts to end of row
Row 4 (WS): Sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat row 3 and 4 working an edge stitch at either end until work measures 4 cm from the provisional cast-on edge.

Now, pick up the 138 (152) 166 (180) provisional cast-on sts by passing the 3 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needle through each of these
sts while removing the contrasting thread.
Once all sts are on 3 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles, fold the hem inward and knit the sts together on each of the 3 mm and 3.5 mm
circular needles as follows:

* Pass the 3.5 mm right hand needle through the first stitch on 3.5 mm left hand needle and at the same time through the first st.
on 3 mm left hand needle, then knit these 2 sts together. * repeat *_* until all sts on both needles have been knitted together.
There are 138 (152) 166 (180) sts on 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
The hem measures 2 cm.

BODY
From here, continue in stockinette stitch back and forth as follows:
Row 1 (WS): sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1
Row 2 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, knit all sts to end of row
Row 3 (WS): sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat row 2 and 3 until work measures 26.5 (27.5) 29 (30.5) cm or to desired lenght.
NOTE: if you want your top to be longer you can add some extra rows here.

FRONT YOKE
RIGHT YOKE
Now, let the back and the left front sts rest while the right yoke is being worked as follows:
NOTE: If you have an extra circular needle, you can let the sts rest on that, as it makes it easier to knit sts when moving to the
next step. You can also let the sts rest on a cable or a piece of yarn.

Row 1 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k 34 (37) 41 (44), place the 103 (114) 124 (135) sts for the back and the left front on an
extra needle or a cable.
There are now 35 (38) 42 (45) sts for the right yoke on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
Row 2 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip stitch over the second slip stitch, purl and bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, purl 29 (31) 35
(37), k 1. Place a stitch marker into the last st of row. This marker will serve as a guide to measure the right yoke.
There are now 31 (33) 37 (39) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Now continue in stockinette stitch back and forth as follows:


Row 1 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k all sts to end of row
Row 2 (WS): sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat these two rows until the right yoke measures 11.5 (12) 13 (14) cm measured from the stitch marker.
Now bind off sts using the sloped bind off method to form the neckline as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl2 p wyif, place the yarn back, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, k and bo the next 2 sts, k to end of row.
There are 28 (30) 34 (36) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Row 2 (WS): sl1p wyif, purl 26 (28) 32 (34), sl1 p wyif

Row 3 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, k to end of row. There are 27 (29) 33 (35) sts on cn.

Row 4 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 25 (27) 31 (33), sl1p wyif

Row 5 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, k to end of row. There are 26 (28) 32 (34) sts on cn.

Row 6 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 24 (26) 30 (32), sl1p wyif

Row 7 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next stitch, k to end of row. There are 24 (26) 30 (32) sts
on cn.

Row 8 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 22 (24) 28 (30), sl1p wyif

Row 9 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, k to end of row. There are 21 (23) 27 (29) sts
on cn.

Row 10 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 19 (21) 25 (27), sl1p wyif

Row 11 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, k to end of row. There are 18 (20) 24 (26) sts
on cn.

SIZE S
Row 12 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 16, k 1. There are 18 sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles. Remove the stitch marker used to
measure the right yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 12.

SIZE (M) L (XL)


Row 12 (WS): sl1p wyif, p (18) 22 (24), sl1p wyif

Row 13 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, k to end of row. There are (17) 21 (23) sts on
cn.

SIZE (M)
Row 14 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 15 , k 1. There are 17 sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles. Remove the stitch marker used to
measure the right yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 14.

SIZE L (XL)
Row 14 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 19 (21), sl1p wyif

Row 15 (RS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, k to end of row. There are 18 (20) sts on
cn.

Row 16 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 16 (18), k 1. There are 18 (20) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles. Remove the stitch marker
used to measure the right yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 16.

NOW FOR ALL SIZES, work back and forth in stockinette st as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, knit to end of row
Row 2 (WS): sl1p wif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 1 (2.5) 3 (3.5) cm, meaning 4 (8) 10 (12) rows measured from the marker.
Now, bind off sts on the RS row: sl2p wyif, place the yarn back, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, then bind off all sts
using the classic bind off method.
TIPS: to bind off the last st of row, check the video tutorial ‘’ How to bind off the last stitch ‘’.
Break the yarn leaving about 30 cm long tail to sew the shoulders and weave in the ends.
Right front measures 43 (46) 50 (53) cm in total lenght.

BACK YOKE
Place the 68 (76) 82 (90) back resting sts onto 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
NOTE: Let the 35 (38) 42 (45) sts for the left front rest on an extra needle while the back is being worked.

Tie a new ball of yarn and work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl2p wyib, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, k 62 (69) 75 (82) sts,
sl1p wyib. There are 64 (71) 77 (84) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
Place a stitch marker into the last st of the row. This marker will serve as a guide to measure the back yoke.

Row 2 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, p 58 (64) 70 (76) sts, k 1.
There are 60 (66) 72 (78) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Now continue in stockinette stitch back and forth as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl1 p wyif, place the yarn back, knit to end of row
Row 2 (WS): sl1p wyif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat these 2 rows until back yoke measures 16.5 (18.5) 21 (22.5) cm measured from the stitch marker.
NOTE: Before binding off the stitches, check that the right front yoke and the back yoke are the same length.

Now, bind off sts on the RS of the work: sl2p wyif, place the yarn back, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, then bind off
all sts using the classic bind off method.
Break the yarn leaving about 20 cm long tail to weave in the ends.

LEFT YOKE
Place the 35 (38) 42 (45) left yoke resting sts onto 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles and work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl2p wyib, pass the 1st slip stitch over the second slip stitch, knit and bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, k 30 (32) 36 (38).
Place a stitch marker into the last st of row. This marker will serve as a guide to measure the right yoke.

There are now 31 (33) 37 (39) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Now continue in stockinette stitch back and forth as follows:


Row 1 (WS): sl1p wyif, p to last st, k 1
Row 2 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k to end of row

Repeat these two rows until the left yoke measures 11.5 (12) 13 (14) cm measured from the stitch marker.
Now bind off sts using the sloped bind off method to form the neckline as follows:

Row 1 (WS): sl2 p wyif, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, purl and bind off the next 2 sts, p 26 (28) 32 (34), k 1.
There are 28 (30) 34 (36) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Row 2 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k 26 (28) 32 (34), sl1 p wyib

Row 3 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, p to last st, k 1. There are 27 (29) 33 (35) sts on cn.

Row 4 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k 25 (27) 31 (33), sl1p wyib

Row 5 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, p to last st, k 1. There are 26 (28) 32 (34) sts on cn.

Row 6 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k 24 (26) 30 (32), sl1p wyib

Row 7 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next stitch, p to last st, k 1. There are 24 (26) 30 (32) sts
on cn.

Row 8 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k 22 (24) 28 (30), sl1p wyib

Row 9 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, p to last st, k 1. There are 21 (23) 27 (29) sts
on cn.
Row 10 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k (21) 25 (27), sl1p wyib

Row 11 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, p to last st, k 1. There are 18 (20) 24 (26) sts on
cn.

SIZE S
Remove the stitch marker used to measure the left yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 11.

SIZE (M) L (XL)


Row 12 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, k (18) 22 (24), sl1p wyib

Row 13 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, p to last st, k 1. There are (17) 21 (23) sts on
cn.

SIZE (M)
Remove the stitch marker used to measure the left yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 13.

SIZE L (XL)
Row 14 (RS): sl1p wyif, k 20 (22), sl1p wyib

Row 15 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip st over the 2nd slip st, bind off the next 2 sts, p to end of row. There are 18 (20) sts on
cn. Remove the stitch marker used to measure the left yoke and place it in the last stitch of row 15.

NOW FOR ALL SIZES, work back and forth in stockinette st as follows:

Row 1 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, knit to end of row
Row 2 (WS): sl1p wif, purl to last st, k 1

Repeat these 2 rows until work measures 1 (2.5) 3 (3.5) cm, meaning 4 (8) 10 (12) rows measured from the marker.
Now, bind off sts on the RS row: sl2p wyif, place the yarn back, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, then bind off all sts
using the classic bind off method.
Break the yarn leaving about 30 cm long tail to sew the shoulders and weave in the ends.
Left front measures 43 (46) 50 (53) cm in total lenght.

RS facing, place the right and back in front of each other and sew the shoulders with the 30 cm long tail using the Edge to Edge seam
method. Video tutorial below or see photos page 9.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G1CO8uedgCg

RS OF RIGHT
YOKE
E
LIN

RS OF BACK YOKE
NECK
NE C K L
INE

RS OF LEFT
YOKE

SLEEVES
The sleeves are worked in the round using the magic loop technique. They are worked separately and then sewn to the top.
With 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles, cast-on 36 (40) 44 (48) sts using the long tail cast-on method or your preferred method. Place
a marker to indicate the beginning of the round.
Now work in the round in stockinette stitch as follows:

Round 1-14 (14) 15 (15): knit all stitches around


Round 15 (15) 16 (16): k 2, M1L, k to last 2 sts, M1R, k 2

Repeat these 15 (15) 16 (16) rows a total of 12 times, meaning a total of 180 (180) 192 (192) rows. There are now 60 (64) 68 (72) sts
on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
Sleeve measures 53 (53) 56.5 (56.5) cm measured from the cast-on edge.
Turn your work and from here work the sleeve in stockinette stitch back and forth while at the same time decreasing as follows:

Row 1 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip stitch over the second slip stitch, purl and bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, purl 54 (57) 61 (64),
sl1p wyif. There are 56 (59) 63 (66) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needes.

Row 2 (RS): sl2p wyib, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, knit and bind off the next 3 (4) 4 (5) sts, k 50 (52) 56 (58),
sl1p wyib.
There are 52 (54) 58 (60) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.

Row 3 (WS): sl2p wyif, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, purl to last st, sl1p wyif

Row 4 (RS): sl2p wyib, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, knit to last st, sl1p wyib.

Rep rows 3 and 4 a total of 12 (13) 14 (15) times, meaning a total of 24 (26) 28 (30) rows.
On the 12th (13th) 14th (15th) repetition, work row 4 as follows: sl2p wyib, pass the 1st slip stitch over the 2nd slip stitch, knit to last
st.

There are now 28 (28) 30 (30) sts on your 3.5 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles.
Then work 2 (6) 10 (14) rows in stockinette stitch back and forth.

Then repeat rows 3 and 4 a total of 14 (14) 15 (15) times, meaning a total of 28 (28) 30 (30) rows.
All sleeve stitches have been binded off.
Break the yarn leaving about 20 cm long tail to weave in the ends.

Work the other sleeve identically.

Follow the video instructions below to sew the sleeves to the top:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D1BlCF1ZVBc

RUFFLE EDGE
FRONT
RS facing, pick up and knit approx. 301 (339) 373 (401) sts with the 3 mm [ 100 cm ] circular needles by picking 1 st in every stitch
along both front edges and back of the neck. Make sure to pick up an odd number of sts.
Turn your work.

The first row is a WS row and is worked as follows:

Row 1 (WS): sl1p wyif, p 1, yo, * p 2, yo * rep *_* to last 3 sts, yo, p 2, k 1.

Row 2 (RS): sl1p wyif, place the yarn back, knit all sts, knit through the back loop when you cross a yarn over

Row 3 (WS): sl1 p wyif, purl and bind off all sts.

Break the yarn leaving about 20 cm long tail to weave in the ends.

CUFF
RS facing, pick up and knit 36 (40) 44 (48) sts with the 3 mm [ 80 cm ] circular needles by picking up 1 st in every stitch all the way
around, place a marker and work in stockinette stitch in the round using the magic loop technique.

Round 1: * k 1, yo * rep *_* to end of round


Round 2: * k 1, k1 tbl * rep *_* to end of round
Round 3: knit all sts around
Round 4: bind off all sts around

Break the yarn leaving about 20 cm long tail to weave in the ends.
Work the other cuff identically.

FINISHING
To sew the fronts, cut a piece of yarn about 30 cm long, insert it in a tapestry needle, then use the backstitch to sew the two sides
together on the RS of work, then tie several knots on the WS and weave in the ends. (See photos)
Weave in all ends and wash and block.
BRAVO – a wonderful and cool top is finished. Show us your finished Disaster Top on Instagram’s knitting pages with
#disastertop @le_pull_le_pull
I would also love to see your project published on Ravelry.
Remember that this pattern is for a private use only. It may not be copied, resold or redistributed. It is forbiden to sell any product
based on this pattern. All Rights reserved. COPYRIGHT Le Pull

All measurements shown in the diagram below are before blocking.


After blocking, the measurements will hardly change. The yarn will just soften slightly and feel more comfortable.

29 (31) 34 (37)

8.5 (8) 12 (15)


8.5 (9.5) 17 (18)

5 (6.5)
8 (8.5)

16.5 (18.5) 21 (22.5)


11.5 (12) 13 (14)
15 (16) 18 (19)
)

14
(79

16 (15)
.5

(17
77

)
.5)
(71
.5

26.5 (27.5) 29 (30.5)


69

.5)
(56
6.5
)5
(53
53

33 (36) 39.5 (43)

LE PULL
SCAN TO
SEE
MORE
DESIGNS
APPENDIX

Shoulder Seam: Pass the tapestry needle through 2 loops along the front shoulder edge, then pass the tapestry needle through
2 loops along the back edge. Keep going until the entire shoulder is sewn. Pull on the yarn to tighten the seam.

www.ravelry.com/designers/le-pull
www.ravelry.com/designers/le-pull

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