BLOUSE 3

Sizes: 1 (2) 3

Bust circumference: 114 (134) 152 cm

Length (measured mid back): 66 (70) 70 cm
Inner sleeve length: 33 cm

Materials:
A: 250 g Spinni by Isager Yarn color 6s (50 g = 300 m)
B: 15 g Spinni by Isager Yarn of each color (50 g = 300 m)
B: 10 g Silk Mohair by Isager Yarn of each colors (25 g = 212 m)
(work two strands of B together)
5 buttons (Ø = 15 mm)

Colors used in Spinni: 1s, 3, 7s, 8s, 10, 12s, 15s, 23s, 25s, 33s, 36s, 39s, 40s, 46, 52s, 55, 59, 61
Colors used in Silk Mohair: 11, 12, 16, 22, 28, 33, 36, 41, 57, 59, 60, 62, 63, 64, 67, 68, 69

Circular needles 3 mm / 60 cm and 3.5 mm / 60 and 80 cm

Gauge in garter stitch using needle 3.5 mm and one strand of A:

21 sts x 48 rows = 10 x 10 cm after wash and block

Gauge in twisted rib (k1 tbl, p1) using needle 3 mm and two strands of A:
34 sts x 44 rows = 10 x 10 cm after wash and block

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The blouse is worked from the bottom and up in garter stitches with squares in different colors. The front
and back are worked separately and sewn together at the end. The blouse has a small slit in each side.
The sleeves are worked back and forth and sewn on the body. On the front piece a button placket is
worked and a small rounded neckline is worked at the end.

About the technique and charts

The squared pattern on the blouse is worked using the Intarsia technique. To avoid holes twist the strands
around each other when changing colors. Each square requires its own small bundle of the given color.
For a 10 sts x 20 rows square you’ll need approx. 3.5 meter of yarn.

Note that each line of cells in the chart corresponds to 2 rows (= 1 garter ridge). The charts are read from
the bottom and up. From right to left when working a RS-row, from left to right when working a WS-row.
All squares and color numbers are listed in the charts associated to this pattern. The color for Spinni is
listed first and the color for Silk Mohair is listed last (for example: B - 36 + 12 is Spinni color 36 and Silk
Mohair 12).

Back piece
Cast on 120 (140) 160 sts on a circular needle 3.5 mm / 80 cm using color A. The first row is a WS-row.

Work Chart 1 using the technique Intarsia and change color according to the chart. The first 3 squares
height-wise forms the slit at each side. To create a neat edge, work the selvedge-stitches as follows:

Row 1 (WS): K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, work 116 (136) 156 sts
according to the chart, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, k1
Row 2 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, k1 tbl, work 116 (136) 156 sts
according to the chart, k1 tbl, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work

Work a total of 21 rows for the first square, so you can change color on a RS-row. From here on, each
square is the given number of rows in the charts. Remember that each line of cells is 2 rows.

Work the first 3 squares height-wise with selvedge-sts as described above. From here on, the first and
last stitch on the needles are knitted on every rows.

Work squares in the listed colors after Chart 1, 2 and 3 until a total of 13 (14) 14 squares have been
worked in the height from the cast-on edge.

Now work short rows on the shoulders as shown in Chart 3. The technique German Short Rows are used.
Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Knit across to 2 (2) 3 sts left on the needles, turn
Row 2 (WS): The first stitch is the turning-stitch, knit across to 2 (2) 3 sts left on the needles, turn

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Row 3 (RS): The first stitch is the turning-stitch, knit across according to chart before last turn (the
turning-stitch counts as one stitch), turn
Row 4 (WS): The first stitch is the turning-stitch, knit across according to chart before last turn (the
turning-stitch counts as one stitch, turn)
Work Row 3 and Row 4 until all short rows have been worked according to Chart 3.

On the last RS-row bind off the last 38 sts and place 41 (51) 61 sts for each shoulder on stitch holders.

Front piece
Cast on 120 (140) 160 sts on a circular needle 3.5 mm / 80 cm using color A. The first row is a WS-row.

Work the first 2 squares height-wise as the back piece. Note: The front piece is one square shorter than
the back. From here on, the first and last stitch on the needles are knitted on each rows.

Work squares in the listed colors after Chart 1 until a total of 5 (6) 6 squares have been worked in the
height from the cast-on edge.

Right front piece

The front piece are now divided in a right and left front piece while the button placket at the front is
worked. Start by making a bundle with two strands of color A.
The button placket is worked over 12 sts with two strands of color A using a needle 3 mm, while the rest
of the stitches on the needles are worked after Chart 2 using a needle 3.5 mm.

Place the first 54 (64) 74 sts on the needle on a stitch holder. Start with the right front piece and the button
placket with buttonholes. Work as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Using needle 3 mm and two strands of color A, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in
front of the work, k1 tbl, * p1, k1 tbl *, work from * to * a total of 5 times (= 12 sts for the
button placket), twist the two bundles. Using needle 3.5 mm, work the next 54 (64) 74 sts
according to chart
Row 2 (WS): Work 54 (64) 74 sts according to chart, twist the two bundles. Using needle 3 mm and
two strands of color A, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, k1 *,
work from * to * to end of row

Continue working these 2 rows and work the first buttonhole after 16 rows (= 8 garter ridges/lines of cells
in Chart 2), as follows:

Row 1 (RS): Using needle 3 mm and two strands of color A, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in
front of the work, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a total of 2 times, k2tog tbl, make a double
yarn over, work from * to * a total of 2 times, k1 tbl, twist the two bundles. Using needle
3.5 mm, work according to chart to end of row

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Row 2 (WS): Work 54 (64) 74 sts according to chart, twist the two bundles. Using needle 3 mm, * slip 1
stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, k1 *, work from * to * to end of row
Row 3 (RS): Using needle 3 mm and two strands of color A, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in
front of the work, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a total of 2 times, k1 tbl, p1 through the
yarn over from Row 1, work from * to * a total of 2 times, k1 tbl, twist the two bundles.
Using needle 3.5 mm, work according to chart to end of row
Row 4 (WS): Work as Row 2

Work a total of 4 buttonholes after the description above and at the marked places in Chart 2 (equivalent
to every 15th garter ridge/lines of cells). The 5th and last buttonhole is worked at the neck edge at the
end.

Continue with Chart 3 until the button placket are completed.

Place the button placket 12 sts on a stitch holder and bind off sts for the neck at the beginning of every
RS-row according to Chart 3. After the 3rd row of binding off sts (equivalent to 6 rows), start working
short rows on the shoulder the same way as on the back piece.

When you have finished all short rows and bind-off rows you’ll have 41 (51) 61 sts left on the shoulder.
Now work the sts on the shoulder together with the shoulder-sts on the back piece from the RS with a
strand of color A. Note: The knitting of stitches are visible on the RS of the shoulder.

Hold the two pieces wrong side facing each other and work from the neck towards the sleeve edge. Knit
through one stitch from each piece, taking care of the turning-stitch. Bind off at the same time.

Left front piece

Work the left front piece without buttonholes. Start by making a small bundle with two strands of color A.

Using needle 3.5 mm, work according to chart across the resting 54 (64) 74 sts. Using needle 3 mm and
two strands of color A, pick up and knit 12 sts behind the right button placket along the garter ridge at
the bottom of the band. The right button placket with the buttonholes should be on top of the left one
(when seen from the RS). The first row is a WS row.

Row 1 (WS): * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work *, work from * to * a total of 6
times (= 12 sts for the button placket), twist the two bundles. Using needle 3.5 mm, work
according to chart to end of row
Row 2 (RS): Work 54 (64) 74 sts according to chart, twist the two bundles. Using needle 3 mm,
* k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a total of 5 times, k1 tbl, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn
in front of the work

Work these 2 rows until the neckline starts in Chart 3. The last row is a WS-row.

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Work according to chart until the button placket and place the 12 sts on a stitch holder.
On the next WS-row start bind off sts for the neckline. The bind off is worked at the beginning of the WS-
row according to Chart 3. After the 3rd row of binding off sts (equivalent to 6 rows), start working short
rows on the shoulder the same way as on the back piece.

When you have finished all short rows and bind-off rows you’ll have 41 (51) 61 sts left on the shoulder.
Now work the sts on the shoulder together with the shoulder-sts on the back piece from the RS with a
strand of color A. Note: The knitting of stitches are visible on the RS of the shoulder.

Hold the two pieces wrong side facing each other and work from the sleeve edge towards the neck. Knit
through one stitch from each piece, taking care of the turning-stitch. Bind off at the same time.

Neckline
The neckline is worked in two strands of color A using a circular needle 3 mm / 60 cm. Pick up and knit
sts along the neck opening with a 3 mm needle on the RS of the neck and a flexible stitch holder on the
WS. With this technique the cast-on edge is hidden inside the neck edge (see video on Youtube under
Knitthing).

Work as follows:
Work in established rib across the 12 sts in the right button placket (the one with the buttonholes). Pick up
and knit sts on both the RS and WS at the same time. The number of sts is distributed as follows:
37 sts along each front piece and 49 sts along the neck. Note: You pick up and knit more sts along the
neck than you were binding off (in this way the neck shouldn’t be too tight). Let the stitch holder hang on
the WS of the work.
Work in established rib across the 12 sts in the left button placket.

There are now a total of 147 sts on the needle and 123 sts on the stitch holder.
Work across the sts on the needle as follows:

Row 1 (WS): * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work *, work from * to * a total of 6
times, purl across the next 123 sts tightly, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of
the work, k1 *, work from * to * to end of row
Row 2 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a
total of 2 times, k2tog tbl, make a double yarn over, work from * to * a total of 2 times,
k1 tbl, knit across the next 123 sts, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a total of 5 times, k1 tbl,
slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work
Row 3 (WS): Work as Row 1

Leave the 147 sts on the needle while working the sts on the stitch holder.

Turn the work, so the WS is towards you. Place the sts on the stitch holder on a new 3 mm needle. Make
sure there is 123 sts on the needle. Join two strands of color A.

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Knit across 3 rows of stockinette stitch (1 row knit, 1 row purl, 1 row knit). The RS should be visible on the
WS of the blouse.

Turn the work, so the RS is towards you again. Hold the two sets of needles together and work the two
sets of sts together in rib from the RS. Work as follows:
Row 4 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * a
total of 2 times, k1 tbl, p1 through the yarn over from Row 2, work from * to * a total of 2
times, k1 tbl, hold the two sets of 123 sts together and work through both sets of sts, p1,
* k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * to 2 sts left on the needle, k1 tbl, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with
the yarn in front of the work
Row 5 (WS): * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work *, work from * to * a total of 6
times, k1, * p1 tbl, k1 *, work from * to * to 12 sts left on the needle, * slip 1 stitch purl-wise
with the yarn in front of the work, k1 *, work from * to * to end of row
Row 6 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, * k1 tbl, p1 *, work from * to * to 2
sts left on the needle, k1 tbl, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work
Row 7 (WS): Work as Row 5

Work 2 rows of double knitting before binding off using the italian bind off. Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work, * k1 tbl, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with
the yarn in front of the work *, work from * to * to end of row
Row 2 (WS): * K1, slip 1 stitch purl-wise with the yarn in front of the work *, work from * to * to 1 stitch
left on the needle, k1

Bind off using the italian bind off technique.

Sleeves
Cast on 62 (68) 68 sts on a circular needle 3.5 mm / 60 cm using color A. The first row is a WS-row.

Work Chart 4 using the technique Intarsia and change color according to the chart. Work increases on the
RS on every 10th row (equivalent to every 5th garter ridge/lines of cells in the chart) Work the increase
after the first stitch and before the last stitch on the row by picking up the strand with the left needle
between two stitches from front to back and knit this strand through the back loop.
(Note: The first increase is worked after the first 11 rows).

Work a total of 21 rows for the first square, so you can change color on a RS-row. From here on, each
square is the given number of rows in the charts. Remember that each line of cells is 2 rows.

Work a total of 16 increases until there are 94 (100) 100 sts on the needles. On the next row start working
short rows according to the chart until you have 8 sts left. Break the yarn and bind off all sts with A.

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Finishing
Weave in the ends on the following squares: The bottom 3 squares of the back, the bottom 2 squares on
the front, on the sleeves, neck and button placket. In all the other places tie the ends together two by two
with 3 knots and trim them, leaving a tail of about 1-1.5 cm.

Steam all pieces on both the RS and WS - this helps the ends to hold better together as well.

Sew the pieces together, making sure the squares align with each other.
Sew the sleeves together with mattress stitch in the outermost loop.
Sew the side seams together with mattress stitch.
Sew the sleeves in with mattress stitch, just under the bind-off edge, making sure the edge is not visible.

KNITTHING ©COPYRIGHT 2025

Only for private use.

7/11
 8/11
CHART 1
B - 39s + 57 B - 3 + 12 B - 10 + 36 B - 15s + 28
A B - 8s + 67 A A B - 12s + 57 A B - 23s + 62 A A B - 25s + 22 A
B - 7s + 64 A B - 25s + 22 A B - 40s + 69 A B - 25s + 64 B - 25s + 33 A B - 3 + 12 A B - 61 + 22 A B - 3 + 12
B - 46 + 36 B - 40s + 60 B - 3 + 67 B - 52s + 59
B - 1s + 12 B - 33s + 63 B - 55 + 12 B - 8s + 67 B - 55 + 11 B - 1s + 60 B - 36s + 12 B - 40s + 67
A A A A A A
B - 25s + 22 B - 40s + 69 B - 36s + 57 B - 46 + 33 B - 15s + 28 B - 25s + 22 B - 3 + 12 B - 3 + 62 B - 46 + 36 B - 39s + 57 B - 15s + 41 B - 8s + 16
B - 10 + 68 B - 1s + 60 B - 10 + 68 B - 15s + 12
A B - 25s + 33 A B - 10 + 36 A A B - 25s + 64 A B - 3 + 33 A
Start front for
size 1
A
Start back for size B - 8s + 12 A B - 36s + 41 B - 15s + 12 A B - 3 + 67 A B - 23s + 69 A B - 25s + 22 B - 40s + 60 A B - 61 + 63 A
1
Start front for sizes
2 and 3
B - 61 + 22 B - 36s + 22 B - 12s + 57 B - 8s + 16
A A A A
B - 36s + 12 B - 52s + 62 B - 7s + 64 B - 25s + 33 B - 15s + 28 B - 55 + 12 B - 46 + 33 B - 15s + 63
Start back for sizes
2 and 3
 9/11
CHART 2
B - 33s + 57 B - 10 + 68 B - 25s + 22 B - 55 + 41
B - 46 + 33 B - 46 + 11 B - 23s + 33 B - 25s + 57 B - 39s + 68 B - 3 + 69 B - 36s + 22 B - 10 + 68
A A A A A A
B - 10 + 36 B - 15s + 62 B - 1s + 59 B - 12s + 63 B - 7s + 36 B - 40s + 69 B - 33s + 62 B - 46 + 36 B - 15s + 41 B - 23s + 69 B - 40s + 33 B - 25s + 22
B - 39s + 68 B - 15s + 12 B - 15s + 63 B - 15s + 12
A B - 25s + 62 A B - 39s + 68 A A B - 33s + 57 A B - 59 + 67 A
A
A
B - 7s + 64 A B - 1s + 12 B - 55 + 12 A B - 3 + 62 B - 8s + 67 A B - 40s + 36 B - 12s + 60 A B - 46 + 28 A
B - 15s + 28 B - 12s + 3 B - 8s + 12 B - 15s + 12
B - 1s + 60 B - 40s + 69 B - 15s + 41 B - 39s + 59 B - 8s + 16 B - 39s + 57 B - 3 + 12 B - 36s + 12
A A A A A A
B - 3 + 12 B - 40s + 36 B - 55 + 11 B - 15s + 63 B - 46 + 36 B - 55 + 12 B - 46 + 28 B - 23s + 22 B - 7s + 64 B - 33s + 12 B - 25s + 33 B - 46 + 33
 10/11
CHART 3
A B - 7s + 64 B - 23s + 22 A
B - 36s + 57 B - 10 + 68
B - 3 + 69 B - 46 + 36
B - 36s + 12
B - 39s + 57
B - 1s + 12 B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62 B - 3 + 41
A
A A
B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62 A
A
A
B - 46 + 36 A B - 52s + 11 A B - 36s + 22 B - 36s + 57 A B - 10 + 33 A B - 25s + 64
A B - 7s + 64 B - 23s + 22 A
B - 12s + 62
B - 36s + 57 B - 10 + 68 B - 46 + 36
B - 3 + 69
B - 39s + 57 B - 1s + 12 B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62 B - 3 + 41 B - 36s + 12
A A
A A A
B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62
B - 3 + 12 B - 23s + 62
A
A
A B - 46 + 36 B - 52s + 11 A B - 36s + 22 B - 36s + 57 A B - 10 + 33 A B - 25s + 64 A
A B - 7s + 64 B - 23s + 22 A
B - 3 + 69 B - 36s + 57 B - 10 + 68 B - 46 + 36
B - 12s + 62
B - 39s + 57 B - 1s + 12 B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62 B - 3 + 41 B - 36s + 12
A
A A A A B - 23s + 62
B - 3 + 12 B - 3 + 67 B - 40s + 62
A
A A
A
B - 7s + 36 A B - 46 + 36 B - 52s + 11 A B - 36s + 22 B - 36s + 57 A B - 10 + 33 A B - 25s + 64 A B - 25s + 33
 CHART 4

B - 12s + 33 B - 8s + 12

B - 39s + 59 B - 8s + 16
B - 15s + 41 B - 39s + 57 B - 3 + 12
A A

B - 55 + 11 B - 15s + 63 B - 55 + 12 B - 46 + 28 B - 23s + 22 B - 7s + 64 B - 33s + 12

B - 46 + 36

B - 39s B - 15s + 28
+ 57 B - 3 + 12 B - 10 + 36

A B - 12s + 57 A B - 23s + 62 A

A
A

B - 40s + 69 A
B - 25s + 64 B - 25s + 33 A B - 3 + 12

B - 33s B - 36s
+ 63 B - 40s + 60 B - 3 + 67 B - 1s + 60 + 12
B - 55 + 12
B - 8s + 67 B - 55 + 11

A A

B - 46 + 33 B - 15s + 28 B - 25s + 22 B - 3 + 12 B - 3 + 62 B - 46 + 36

B - 1s + 60 B - 10 + 68

A B - 10 + 36 A A B - 25s + 64 A

B - 15s + 12 A B - 3 + 67 A B - 23s + 69 A B - 25s + 22

B - 36s + 22 B - 12s + 57
A A
B - 7s + B - 25s + 33 B - 15s + 28 B - 55 +
64 12

Start sleeve
Start sleeve
for sizes 2
for size 1
and 3

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