92869

Version 1

92869

ÄRG (VERDIGRIS) – CARDIGAN

A cardigan knitted with Llama Silk and an exciting construction. It is knitted from the top down and
requires no seaming. The yoke is constructed so that you first knit with increases for the shoulders on
the right and wrong sides, then shape the sleeves before working the raglan increases. At the same
time, increases along the neck create a rounded neckline. The body is cropped with subtle waist
shaping. The sleeves are worked in the round on a short circular. The final steps include picking up
and knitting stitches along the front edges and neck for the button/buttonhole bands and
neckband.

YARN Llama Silk (70% baby llama, 30% mulberry silk, GARMENT LENGTH Approx. 19¾ (20, 20½, 21¾, 22½,
180 yd/165 m / 50 g) 23¼, 24, 24¾) in / 50 (51, 52, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63) cm
ALTERNATE YARN SUGGESTIONS GARMENT SLEEVE LENGTH Approx. 16½ (16½, 16½,
Alpacka Solo (100% alpaca, 183 yd/167 m / 50 g) 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½) in / 42 (42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42,
100 g) 42) cm
Junior (70% acrylic, 30% polyamide, 184 yd/168 m / 50 YARN AMOUNTS AND COLORS
g) Approx. 230 (240, 260, 290, 320, 360, 400, 430) g (color
GAUGE Approx. 24 sts x 32 rows in stockinette on 12223, Lemon Balm Green)
larger size needles = 4 x 4 in / 10 x 10 cm. NEEDLES U. S. sizes 2.5 and 4 / 3 and 3.5 mm: sets of 5
Adjust needle size to obtain correct gauge if necessary. dpn; circulars 32-40 in / 80-100 cm
SIZES XS (S, M, L, XL, 2XL, 3XL, 4XL) NOTIONS stitch markers, 10 (11, 11, 11, 11, 12, 12, 12)
GARMENT POSITIVE EASE Approx. 0-4¾ in / 0-12 cm buttons approx. ⅝ in / 15 mm in diameter
GARMENT CHEST Approx. 32¾ (35½, 38½, 42¼, 46½, DESIGNER Sigrid Marie Blom
51¼, 56¼, 59¾) in / 83 (90, 98, 107, 118, 130, 143, 152)
cm

STITCHES AND TECHNIQUES M1L = make 1 left: With left needle, lift strand between
Italian bind-off: See video: 2 sts from front to back and knit into back loop = left-
https://youtu.be/CzhDQh1h7Mg leaning increase.
M1R-p = make 1 right-purl: With left needle, lift strand
Edge stitches: Always knit the edge sts on both right between 2 sts from back to front and purl into front
and wrong sides. loop = right-leaning increase.
SST: shoulder stitch M1L-p = make 1 left-purl: With left needle, lift strand
RM = raglan marker/raglan stitch between 2 sts from front to back and purl into back
loop = left-leaning increase.
Shoulder Shaping
The shoulders are shaped with increases on each side Tips regarding sizing:
of the shoulder stitch (SST) on both right and wrong If you are broad-shouldered, you might need to follow
sides – this makes 4 increases on every row. The the instructions for a size larger than the yoke.
increases are made so each either leans to the right However, you should skip the last row before you set
(M1R) or to the left (M1L) as follows: shoulder stitches aside so you can finish with a stitch
M1R = make 1 right: With left needle, lift strand count that matches your size on the body and sleeves.
between 2 sts from back to front and knit into front If you have narrow shoulders, you might need to follow
loop = right-leaning increase. the instructions for a size smaller than the yoke. In that
case, work a few extra rows of increases before you
divide for body and sleeves.

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Version 1

YOKE The stitches are now divided as:

With color 1 and larger size circular, CO 49 (51, 53, 53, 26 (25, 28, 31, 31, 31, 34, 34) sts – right front
57, 59, 59, 61) sts. 1 SST
Purl 1 row on WS. Pm in stitch no. 2 and in next-to-last 85 (87, 93, 97, 101, 103, 107, 109) sts – back
st of row – these are the shoulder sts (SST). The sts are 1 SST
divided as: 1 st (right front), 1 SST, 45 (47, 49, 49, 53, 55, 26 (25, 28, 31, 31, 31, 34, 34) – left front
55, 57) sts (back), 1 SST, 1 st (left front). Total sts: 139 (139, 151, 161, 165, 167, 177, 179).
You will now increase on each side of the SST on both
RS and WS (see Stitches and Techniques). The The shoulder increases are complete, so, you will now
outermost st at each side is an edge st and is always increase for the sleeves at the same time as continuing
knitted on both RS and WS. to increase along the neckline as follows:
K1 (edge st), k1, M1L, knit right front sts, pm in st before
Row 1A (RS): K1 (edge st), knit right front, M1R, k1 SST (this is now raglan 1/RM1), M1L, increase 2 sts in
(SST), M1L, knit across back, M1R, k1 (SST), M1L, knit left SST: (k1, yo, k1) into SST, M1R, pm in next sts (RM2),knit
front, k1 (edge sts) = 4 sts increased. back sts, pm in last st of back (RM3), M1L, increase 2 sts
Row 1B (WS): K1 (edge st), purl left front, M1L-p, p1 in SST as before, M1R, pm in next st (RM4), and knit left
(SST), M1R-p, purl across back, M1L-a, p1 (SST), M1R-p, front until 2 sts rem, M1R, k1 (edge st) = 10 sts
purl right front, k1 (edge sts) = 4 sts increased. increased.
Rep these two rows until you’ve worked each 3 (4, 4, 4,
4, 4, 4, 4) times. The stitches are now divided as:
26 (25, 28, 31, 31, 31, 34, 34) sts – right front
The stitches are now divided as: RM1, 5 sts – right sleeve, RM2
7 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts – right front 83 (85, 91, 95, 99, 101, 105, 107) sts – back
1 SST RM3, 5 sts – left sleeve, RM4
57 (63, 65, 65, 69, 71, 71, 73) st – back 26 (25, 28, 31, 31, 31, 34, 34) sts – left front
1 SST Total sts: 149 (149, 161, 171, 175, 177, 187, 189).
7 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 9) sts – left front
Total sts: 73 (83, 85, 85, 89, 91, 91, 93). Work next row (WS) as follows:
K1 (edge st), purl across left front and RM4, M1R-p, purl
Now work another increase row, additionally increasing 5 sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM3, back, and RM2 sts, M1R-p,
for the neck: purl 5 sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl across RM1 and right front,
Row 1C (RS): K1 (edge st), k1, M1L, knit right front, M1R, k1 (edge st) = 4 sts increased.
k1 (SST), M1L, knit across back, M1R, k1 (SST), M1L, knit
left front until 2 sts rem, M1R, k1, k1 (edge sts) = 6 sts Next, work the following rows in the sequence for your
increased. size:
Row 2A (RS): K1 (edge st), k1, M1L, knit until 2 sts rem
Continue in the row sequence for your size: before RM1, k2tog, knit RM1, M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R,
XS: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B = 60 knit RM2, knit across back and RM3, M1L, knit sleeve sts,
sts increased M1R, knit, RM4 r, slip 2 sts knitwise (one at a time), slip
S: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B = 50 sts sts back to left needle and k2tog tbl (= ssk), knit front
increased sts until 2 sts rem, M1R, k1, k1 (edge st) = 6 sts increases
M: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B = 60 and 2 sts decreased.
sts increased Row 2B (WS): K1 (edge st), purl left front and RM4,
L: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B M1R-p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM3, back and RM2
= 70 sts increased sts, M1R-p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM1 and right
XL: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, front sts, k1 (edge st) = 4 sts increased.
1B = 70 sts increased Row 2C (RS): K1 (edge st), k1, M1L, knit right front and
2XL: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, RM1 sts, M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM2, back and
1B = 70 sts increased RM3 sts, M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM4 and front
3XL: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, sts until 2 sts rem, M1R, k1, k1 (edge st) = 6 sts
1B, 1C, 1B = 80 sts increased increased.
4XL: 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1A, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, 1B, 1C, Row 2D (WS): K1 (edge st), p1, M1R-p, purl left front
1B, 1C, 1B = 80 sts increased and RM4, M1R-p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM3, back
and RM2 sts, M1R-p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM1
and right front sts until 1 sts rem, M1L-p, p1, k1 (edge
st) = 6 sts increased.

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Version 1

Row 2E (WS): K1 (edge st), p1, M1R-p, purl until 2 sts k1 (edge st) = 8 sts increased.
rem, M1L-p, p1, k1 (edge st) = 2 sts increased. Row 3E (WS): K1 (edge st), purl front and RM4 sts, M1R-
p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM3, back and RM2 sts,
XS: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2B, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A = 44 sts increased M1R-p, purl sleeve sts, M1L-p, purl RM1 and front sts, k1
S: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A = 46 sts increased (edge st) = 4 sts increased.
M: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A = 46 sts increased
L: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A = 46 sts increased XS: *3E, 3B* 2 times, *3A, 3B* 9 times, *3A, 3C* 3 times,
XL: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A = 46 sts increased *3A, 3D* 3 times, end with row 3A = 94 sts increased.
2XL: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C = 58 sts S: *3A, 3B* 11 times, *3A, 3C* 2 times, *3A, 3D* 6 times,
increased end with row 3A = 104 sts increased
3XL: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2E, 2A, 2E, 2C = 50 sts M: *3A, 3B* 11 times, *3A, 3C* 3 times, *3A, 3D* 7 times,
increased end with row 3A = 118 sts increased
4XL: 2A, 2B, 2C, 2D, 2A, 2D, 2C, 2E, 2A, 2E, 2C = 50 sts L: *3A, 3B* 10 times, *3A, 3C* 2 times, *3A, 3D* 11 times,
increased end with row 3A = 140 sts increased
XL: *3A, 3B* 7 times, *3A, 3C* 3 times, *3A, 3D* 15
The stitches are now divided as: times, end with row 3A = 166 sts increased
30 (30, 33, 36, 36, 38, 41, 41) sts – right front 2XL: *3A, 3B* 1 time, *3A, 3C* 2 times, *3A, 3D* 22
RM1, 25 (25, 25, 25, 25, 29, 25, 25) sts – right sleeve, RM2 times, end with row 3A = 192 sts increased
83 (85, 91, 95, 99, 101, 105, 107) sts – back 3XL: *3A, 3C* 3 times, *3A, 3D* 26 times, end with row
RM3, 25 (25, 25, 25, 25, 29, 25, 25) sts – left sleeve, RM4 3A = 226 sts increased
30 (30, 33, 36, 36, 38, 41, 41) sts – left front 4XL: *3A, 3C* 2 times, *3A, 3D* 30 times, end with row
Total sts: 197 (199, 211, 221, 225, 239, 241, 243). 3A = 252 sts increased

Work Row 2D (2D, 2D, 2D, 2D, 2E, 2E, 2E) at the same The stitches are now divided as:
time as you cast on 6 (7, 7, 6, 8, 7, 6, 7) sts with 43 (46, 51, 56, 63, 70, 77, 81) sts – right front
backwards loops at end of row. RM1, 67 (67, 71, 75, 79, 81, 85, 91) sts – right sleeve, RM2
89 (97, 105, 117, 129, 145, 157, 167) sts – back
Work the next row as follows: RM3, 67 (67, 71, 75, 79, 81, 85, 91) sts – left sleeve, RM4
K1 (edge st), knit new sts, knit right front and RM1 sts, 43 (46, 51, 56, 63, 70, 77, 81) sts – left front
M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM2, back and RM3 sts, Total sts: 313 (327, 353, 383, 417, 451, 485, 515).
M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM4 and front sts CO 6 (7,
7, 6, 8, 7, 6, 7) sts with backwards loops. The yoke is now finished and it’s time to divide for body
and sleeves.
The stitches are now divided as:
37 (38, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 49) sts – right front BODY
RM1, 29 (29, 29, 29, 29, 31, 27, 27) sts – right sleeve, RM2 Place each set of 67 (67, 71, 75, 79, 81, 85, 91) sleeve sts
83 (85, 91, 95, 99, 101, 105, 107) sts – back on a holder while you knit the body (RM1-4 are
RM3, 29 (29, 29, 29, 29, 31, 27, 27) sts – left sleeve, RM4 included in the body). CO 7 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, 11, 13) sts
37 (38, 41, 43, 45, 46, 48, 49) sts – left front under each underarm [= 193 (211, 229, 251, 277, 307,
Total sts: 219 (223, 235, 243, 251, 259, 259, 263). 337, 359) sts]. The outermost st at each side continues
as an edge st. Pm in the center st of the cast-on sts on
Next, work the following rows in the sequence for your each underarm to mark sides.
size:
Row 3A (WS): K1 (edge st), purl until 1 st rem, k1 (edge Work back and forth in stockinette until cardigan
st). measures 15¾ (16¼, 16½, 17¾, 18½, 19¼, 20, 21) in / 40
Row 3B (RS): K1 (edge st), knit front and RM1 sts, M1L, (41, 42, 45, 47, 49, 51, 53) cm down center back or 3¼ in
knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM2, back and RM3 sts, M1L, / 8 cm short of desired total length. At the same time,
knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM4 and front sts, k1 (edge st) decrease 2 sts at each side every 2 (2, 2, 1½, 1½, 1⅜, 1¼,
= 4 sts increased. 1¼) in / 5 (5, 5, 4, 4, 3.5, 3, 3) cm a total of 4 (4, 4, 5, 6, 7,
Row 3C (RS): K1 (edge st), knit front sts, M1R, RM1, M1L, 8, 8) times as follows: k2tog before marked st and k2tog
knit sleeve sts, M1R, knit RM2, back and RM3, M1L, knit tbl after marked st = 177 (195, 213, 231, 253, 279, 305,
sleeve sts, M1R, RM4, M1L, knit front sts, k1 (edge st) = 6 327 sts rem. Change to smaller size circular and work in
sts increased. k1, p1 ribbing for 3¼ in / 8 cm. Try on sweater to make
Row 3D (RS): K1 (edge st), knit front sts, M1R, RM1, sure it is the desired length. BO with Italian bind-off.
M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, RM2, M1L, knit back sts, M1R,
RM3, M1L, knit sleeve sts, M1R, RM4, M1L, knit front sts,

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Version 1

SLEEVES FINISHING
Knit sleeves beginning with a 16 in / 40 cm circular and Weave in all ends neatly on WS.
switch to dpn or magic loop when sts no longer fit Sew on buttons.
around circular. Dampen sweater, preferably from a spray bottle. Gently
With larger size needle, pick up and knit 7 (9, 9, 9, 9, 9, press out excess water by rolling sweater in a towel. On
11, 13) sts along cast-on underarm sts and knit the held a dry towel, lay cardigan flat to dry, patting it out to
sleeve sts = 74 (76, 80, 84, 88, 90, 96, 104) sts. The round finished measurements.
begins at center of underarm. Work around in
stockinette until sleeve measures 13¾ in / 35 cm from SCHEMATIC MEASUREMENTS
center of underarm. At the same time, decrease 2 sts A ≈ 32¾ (35½, 38½, 42¼, 46½, 51¼, 56¼, 59¾) in / 83
centered on underarm approx. every 1¼ (1¼, 1⅛, 2, ⅞, (90, 98, 107, 118, 130, 143, 152) cm
⅞, ¾, ⅝) in / 3 (3, 2.7, 2.5, 2.3, 2.3, 2, 1.75) cm, a total of B ≈ 19¾ (20, 20½, 21¾, 22½, 23¼, 24, 24¾) in / 50 (51,
11 (11, 12, 13, 14, 14, 16, 19) times as follows: K2tog tbl 52, 55, 57, 59, 61, 63) cm
with first 2 sts of rnd, knit until 2 sts rem, k2tog = 52 (54, C ≈ 6¼ (6¾, 7¼, 8, 8¼, 8¾ 9½, 10¼) in / 16 (17, 18.5, 20,
56, 58, 60, 62, 64, 66) sts rem. Change to smaller size 21, 22, 24, 26) cm
dpn and work in k1, p1 ribbing for 2¾ in / 7 cm. D ≈ 12¾ (12¾, 12¾, 13, 13½, 13¾, 13¾, 13¾ ) in / 32
BO with Italian bind-off. Knit the second sleeve the (32, 32, 33, 34, 35, 35, 35) cm
same way. E ≈ 6¾ (7, 7½, 7½, 8, 8¼, 8¼, 8¾) in / 17.5 (18, 19, 19,
20.5, 21, 21, 22) cm
FRONT BANDS F ≈ 12¼ (12¾, 13¼, 13¾, 14¼, 14¾, 15¾, 17) in / 31 (32,
With RS facing and with smaller size circular, pick up 33, 35, 36.5, 37.5, 40, 43) cm
and knit 3 sts for every 4 rows along left front. Make G ≈ 25½ (28¼, 30¾, 33½, 36¼, 40¼, 43¾, 47) in / 65 (72,
sure you have an odd number of sts. Work back and 78, 85, 92, 102, 111, 119) cm
forth in k1, p1 ribbing for 1 in / 2.5 cm. BO in ribbing. H ≈ 16½ (16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½, 16½) in / 42
Work right front band as for left, but, make 9 (10, 10, 10, (42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42, 42) cm
10, 11, 11, 11) buttonholes centered on band and I ≈ 8 (8¼, 8½, 8¾, 9, 9½, 9⅝, 10) in / 20 (21, 21.5, 22, 23,
evenly spaced apart (the top buttonhole will be in the 24, 24.5, 25.5) cm
neckband). Buttonhole = k2tog, yo.

NECKBAND
With RS facing and with smaller size circular, pick up
and knit approx. 123 (125, 127, 129, 137, 141, 143, 145)
sts around neck. Work back and forth in k1, p1 ribbing
for ¾ in / 2 cm. Don’t forget the top buttonhole. BO in
ribbing.

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Version 1

TIPS & SHORTCUTS

To avoid questions: Before you begin knitting, read through the pattern.

Stitch count: Always knit or crochet a gauge swatch as recommended in the pattern. If
your stitch count doesn’t match the gauge given in the pattern, try again with larger or
smaller needles or hook. If your gauge doesn’t match that in the pattern, your item will not
be the correct size or shape.

Highlight the size you will knit or crochet throughout the pattern to make it easier to follow
the instructions.

Charts: It will be easier to follow a chart if you mark your row with a ruler and magnetic
board or sticky note.

Ease: The amount of ease included in our garments varies depending on the type and
shape of the garment. To determine the right size, we recommend that you first measure
your body. Then you can calculate the garment size depending on how much ease you
want the garment to have. The schematics for each piece show all the garment
measurements.

Two-color stranded knitting: When knitting more than 3-4 stitches of the same color, twist the
color strands around each other on the wrong side to avoid long strands or “floats” on the
back. If the yarns need to be twisted on several rows/rounds, make sure you do not stack the
twists in the same place to prevent the yarns from showing through on the right side.

Tips för hand dyed yarn: Make sure you have enough yarn to complete your project. The
colors may vary from time to time. To get a smooth color mix, you can alternate between
two skeins: knit two rows from one and two rows from another skein.

ABBREVIATIONS
KNITTING
alt = alternately, approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, BO = bind off, BOR = beginning of
row/round, cc = contrasting color, cn = cable needle, CO = cast on, col = color, cont = continue, dec =
decrease, dpn(s) = double-pointed needles, EOR = end of row/round, fl = front loop, g st = garter stitch,
inc = increase, k1f&b = knit in front and back loop of same stitch, k = knit (stitch), k2tog = knit two stitches
together (right-slanting decrease), kw = knitwise, LH = left hand needle, m = marker, mm = millimeters,
mc = main color, p = purl (stitch), patt = pattern, pm = place marker, pw = purlwise, rep = repeat, rnd(s) =
round/rounds, RH = right hand needle, RM = remove marker, RS = right side, sl = slip, sl m = slip marker, ssk
= slip, slip, knit, st(s) = stitches, St st = stockinette/stocking stitch, tog = together, WS = wrong side, wyib =
with yarn in back, wyif = with yarn in front, yo = yarn over

CROCHETING
approx. = approximately, beg = begin, bl = back loop, ch = chain stitch, col = color, cont = continue,
dc = double crochet, dec = decrease, dtr = double treble crochet, fl = front loop, hdc = half double
crochet, htr = half treble crochet, inc = increase, m = marker, mc = main color, rep = repeat, rnd/rnds
= round/rounds, RS = right side, sc = single crochet, sl st = slip stitch, sts = stitches, tog = together, tr =
treble crochet, tr tr = triple treble crochet, WS = wrong side, yo = yarn over

DIFFICULTY
* = Suitable for those who have just started knitting or crocheting
** = Suitable for those who have knitted or crocheted some before
*** = Suitable for those who are experienced knitters or crocheters

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A ≈ 83 (90) 98 (107) 118 (130) 143 (152) cm
B ≈ 50 (51) 52 (55) 57 (59) 61 (63) cm
C ≈ 16 (17) 18,5 (20) 21 (22) 24 (26) cm
D ≈ 32 (32) 32 (33) 34 (35) 35 (35) cm
E ≈ 17,5 (18) 19 (19) 20,5 (21) 21 (22) cm
F ≈ 31 (32) 33 (35) 36,5 (37,5) 40 (43) cm
G ≈ 65 (72) 78 (85) 92 (102) 111 (119) cm
H ≈ 42 (42) 42 (42) 42 (42) 42 (42) cm
I ≈ 20 (21) 21,5 (22) 23 (24) 24,5 (25,5) cm