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Selmas Sovedragt 2.0 ENGELSK

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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
2K views6 pages

Selmas Sovedragt 2.0 ENGELSK

Uploaded by

luluintown
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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SELMA’S SLEEP SUIT

________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Sizes: 0-3 months (3-6 months) 6-12 months (1-2 years) 2-3 years
Body width: 28 (31) 33 (35) 36 cm [11 (12¼) 13 (13¾) 14¼ inches]
Lengths: From shoulder to foot: 53 (62) 72 (82) 88 cm [20¾ (24½) 28¼ (32¼) 34¾ inches]
Sleeve length: 12 (17) 22 (24) 26 cm [4¾ (6¾) 8¾ (9½) 10¼ inches]
Gauge: 19 sts x 34 rows in garter stitch = 10 x 10 cm [4 x 4 inches], after blocking
Needles: Circular needles: 4 mm [US6] / 60 and 80 cm [24 and 30 inches]
Materials: 250-300 (350) 400 (450) 500 g Snefnug by CaMaRose (50 g = 110 m [120 yds]), or 400 (400)
500 (500) 700 g Frisenvang Thick Quality Baby Alpaca (100 g = 150-200 m [164-219 yds]), 5
(5) 6 (7) 7 buttons (ø = 15 mm)
PATTERN
Selma’s Sleep Suit is worked from the top down in garter stitch, first the hood and then the suit is worked.
The yoke is shaped with raglan increases. Both the mitts and the booties can be folded back.
Selma’s Sleep Suit has a generous fit and is perfect as the outer layer for naps outside in the pram.

About raglan increases


The raglan increases are worked from the RS on either side of a central raglan stitch (which is worked as a
normal garter stitch that is knitted on the RS and WS). The raglan increases to the right of the raglan stitch
slant right (M1R), while the raglan increases to the left of the raglan stitch slant left (M1L). These increases
are worked as follows:
M1R: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from back to front, then knit this
strand.
M1L: Insert the left needle under the strand that runs between two stitches from front to back, then knit this
strand through the back loop (twisted).

Hood
When knitting the hood, you start out by knitting a square which forms the top of the hood. The cast-on
edge becomes the top front edge along the forehead. After this, stitches are picked up along the sides of
this square and the rest of the hood is worked back and forth from there.

Cast on 20 (22) 24 (26) 28 sts tightly on 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 and 32 inches] circular needles with
your preferred cast-on method. The first row is a RS row.
Knit 44 (48) 52 (56) 60 rows back and forth in garter stitch (so you can count 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 garter ridges
on the RS of the work). End on a WS row (your square of knitting will have both ends of the yarn at the same
side of the work).
Break the yarn and let the sts rest on the needles.

You have completed the top of the hood. Now the sides are worked together with the back. Start by picking
up and knitting sts along the sides of the squares from the RS as follows:
Pick up and knit sts with the 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 and 32 inches] circular needles. RS facing, pick
up 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 sts along one side of the square starting at the cast-on corner and picking up and
knitting 1 stitch in each of the 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 garter ridges up to the resting sts on the needle, knit across
the 20 (22) 24 (26) 28 resting sts, then pick up and knit 22 (24) 26 (28) 30 sts along the garter ridges along
the other side of the square, ending at the cast-on edge. There are now 64 (70) 76 (82) 88 sts on the needles.
Note: The first and last of the picked up sts must be picked up from the very edge in the corners, so there
is a smooth and neat transition between the sections on the completed hood.

2
Now work back and forth in garter stitch across the 64 (70) 76 (82) 88 sts of the hood until it measures 15
(16) 17 (18) 19 cm [6 (6¼) 6¾ (7) 7½ inches] from where sts were picked-up. Knit the first and last stitch
extra tightly to create and firm and neat edge.
End on a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.

Yoke
The yoke is worked in extension of the hood and is worked back and forth in garter stitch. Continue to knit
the first and last stitch extra tightly to create a firm and neat edge.
The buttonholes are worked along the way and along the left front edge. The first buttonhole is worked 1
cm [approx. ½ inch] down the yoke and the following buttonholes are worked 7 cm [2¾ inches] apart a total
of 5 (5) 6 (7) 7 times. The buttonholes are worked from the RS along the left front edge (i.e. at the beginning
of the row), as follows: K3, k2tog, yarn over.

Decrease 8 (8) 8 (8) 10 sts on the next row as follows:


*Knit 5 (6) 7 (7) 6 sts, k2tog*, work from * to * a total of 8 (8) 8 (8) times, then knit to end of row. There are
now 56 (62) 68 (74) 78 sts on the needles.
Knit across 1 row. The next row is a RS row.

Now divide the work into sleeves, front and back by placing markers on either side of raglan sts as follows:
11 (12) 13 (14) 14 sts (left front), place marker, 1 raglan stitch, place marker, 7 (8) 9 (10) 12 sts (left sleeve),
place marker, 1 raglan stitch, place marker, 16 (18) 20 (22) 22 sts (back), place marker, 1 raglan stitch, place
marker, 7 (8) 9 (10) 12 sts (right sleeve), place marker, 1 raglan stitch, place marker, 11 (12) 13 (14) 14 sts
(right front).

Now work raglan increases every RS row as follows:


Row 1 (RS): Knit across left front, M1R, k1 (raglan stitch), M1L, knit across left sleeve, M1R,
k1 (raglan stitch), M1L, knit across back, M1R, k1 (raglan stitch), M1L, knit across
right sleeve, M1R, k1 (raglan stitch), M1L, knit across right front (a total of 8 sts
have been increased).
Row 2 (WS): Knit across.

Work Row 1 and 2 a total of 15 (16) 17 (18) 19 times. There are now 176 (190) 204 (218) 230 sts on the
needles. Change to a longer circular needle (80 cm [32 inches]) along the way to accommodate the
increasing number of sts.

Knit across 2 rows. The next row is a RS row.

3
Body
The yoke has been completed and the body is now worked back and forth in garter stitch on 4 mm [US6] /
80 cm [32 inches] circular needles.
Place the sleeve sts on stitch holders and cast on new sts at each underarm as follows:
Knit across left front, k1 (raglan stitch), place the sts for the left sleeve on a stitch holder, cast on 6 (6) 6 (6)
6 new sts at the underarm using the backward loop method, k1 (raglan stitch), knit across back, k1 (raglan
stitch), place the sts for the right sleeve on a stitch holder, cast on 6 (6) 6 (6) 6 new sts at the underarm using
the backward loop method, k1 (raglan stitch), knit across right front. There are now 114 (122) 130 (138) 142
sts on the needles for the body.

Work back and forth in garter stitch until the suit measures 35 (37) 42 (47) 50 cm [13¾ (14½) 16½ (18½) 19¾
inches] from the top of the yoke (i.e. from the transition between the hood and the yoke) (remember to
continue to work buttonholes along the left front edge every 7 cm [2¾ inches]).
End on a WS row, so the next row is a RS row.

On the next row the work is joined in the round, so the first and last 6 sts overlap and form the overlapping
button plackets. At the same time sts are bound off between the legs.
Work as follows (RS):
Knit to the last 6 sts of the row. Slip these last 6 sts onto a double-pointed needle. Join the circular needle
in the round and hold the first 6 sts in front of/on top of the 6 sts on the double-pointed needle, then knit
through both sets of sts one from each needle at a time, while at the same time binding them off (three-
needle bind-off).

Purl 48 (52) 56 (60) 62 sts (left leg), bind off 6 sts (mid back), purl 48 (52) 56 (60) 62 sts (right leg).
Let the sts for the left leg on hold, while working the right leg. Break the yarn.

Legs
The legs are worked flat (back and forth) one at a time on 4 mm [US6] needles. They will be seamed at the
end. Work in garter stitch until the leg measures 16 (23) 28 (33) 36 cm [6¼ (9) 11 (13) 14¼ inches], while at
the same time working a decrease row every 12th (12th) 12th (12th) 12th row a total of 3 (4) 6 (8) 8 times,
as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
There are now 42 (44) 44 (44) 46 sts on the needles. End on a RS row, so the next row is a WS row.

Work booties than can be folded back as follows:


On the right leg: Bind off the first 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts (i.e. the sts at the front of the leg), then knit 8 cm [3¼
inches] straight in garter stitch across the remaining 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts on the needle (i.e. the sts at the
back of the leg). Bind off all remaining sts from the WS.

4
On the left leg: Knit 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts, bind off the last 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts (i.e. the sts at the front of
the leg). Work 8 cm [3¼ inches] straight in garter stitch across the remaining 21 (22) 22 (22) 23 sts on the
needle (i.e. the sts at the back of the leg. Bind off all remaining sts from the WS.

Sleeves
The sleeves are worked flat (back and forth) in garter stitch and the sleeve seam is sewn together at the end
using mattress stitch.

Work the sleeves as follows:


Cast on 4 (4) 4 (4) 4 sts on 4 mm [US6] / 60 or 80 cm [24 or 32 inches] circular needles, knit across the 37
(40) 43 (46) 50 sleeve sts in extension of these new sts, cast on 4 (4) 4 (4) 4 sts in extension of the sleeve
sts with either the backward loop method or the knitted cast-on method. There are now 45 (48) 51 (54) 58
sts on the needles.
Work back and forth in garter stitch until the sleeve measures 12 (17) 22 (24) 26 cm [4¾ (6¾) 8¾ (9½) 10¼
inches] from where sts were cast on, while at the same time working a decrease row every 12th (12th) 14th
(14th) 14th row a total of 3 (4) 5 (5) 6 times, as follows: K1, k2tog, knit to the last 3 sts, ssk, k1.
There are now 39 (40) 41 (44) 46 sts on the needles. End on a RS row, so the next row is a WS row.

Work mitts than can be folded back the same way as the booties were worked, beginning with a WS row,
as follows:
On the left sleeve: Knit 20 (20) 21 (22) 23 sts, bind off the last 19 (20) 20 (22) 23 sts on the needles (i.e. the
sts at the front of the sleeve). Work 8 cm straight in garter stitch across the remaining 20 (20) 21 (22) 23 sts
(i.e. the sts at the back of the sleeve). Bind off all remaining sts from the WS.
On the right sleeve: Bind off the first 19 (20) 20 (22) 23 sts (i.e. the sts at the front of the sleeve), and work
8 cm [3¼ inches] straight in garter stitch across the remaining 20 (20) 21 (22) 23 sts on the needles (i.e. the
sts at the back of the sleeve). Bind off all remaining sts from the WS.

Finishing
Sew the sleeve and leg seams using mattress stitch. Sew the crotch and underarm seams. Fold the knitted
mitt and bootie sections back and sew the sides of the straight garter sections to the sleeves and legs of
the suit.
Sew the buttons on across from the buttonholes. Weave in all ends.

5
Abbreviations
k knit
k2tog decrease; knit two stitches together, right-slanting
M1L increase; make one left; left-slanting, see “about raglan increases”
M1R increase; make one right; right-slanting, see “about raglan increases”
p purl
RS right side of your work
ssk decrease; slip, slip, knit; slip one stitch knit-wise, slip another stich knit-wise, return both
stitches to the left needle and knit them together through the back loop; left-slanting
st(s) stitch(es)
WS wrong side of your work

Mette Wendelboe Okkels ©COPYRIGHT 2017 Version 2.0 (20.01.2020)


www.petiteknit.com // Instagram: @petiteknit
This pattern is for personal, non-commercial use only. The pattern may not be copied, resold or
redistributed in any way. Nor may you sell any items produced using the directions in this pattern.
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#selmassovedragt #selmassleepsuit #petiteknit
Happy knitting!

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