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Carla Tee English

The Carla Tee is a knitting pattern designed for sizes XS to XL, featuring an elegant cable pattern and a high neckline. It is knitted from the bottom up with a seamless finish at the shoulders and offers options for ribbed or stockinette stitch necklines. The pattern includes detailed instructions for shaping, decreases, and finishing techniques, along with yarn and gauge recommendations.
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0% found this document useful (0 votes)
3K views7 pages

Carla Tee English

The Carla Tee is a knitting pattern designed for sizes XS to XL, featuring an elegant cable pattern and a high neckline. It is knitted from the bottom up with a seamless finish at the shoulders and offers options for ribbed or stockinette stitch necklines. The pattern includes detailed instructions for shaping, decreases, and finishing techniques, along with yarn and gauge recommendations.
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
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Carla Tee

By Milotté Patterns

_______________________________________________________________________________________

Sizes: XS (S) M (L) XL


Bust: approx. 85 (90) 95 (100) 110 cm
Total length: approx. 52 (55) 58 (61) 63 cm
Gauge: needle 3 mm: 26 m = 10 cm
Recommended needles: 3 mm circular needle (40 and 60 cm)
Yarn Suggestions: Alternative 1:
150 (200) 200 (250) 250 (300) g Arwetta together with 75
(100) 100 (125) 125 (150) g Tilia from Filcolana.
Alternative 2:
150 (200) 200 (250) 250 (300) g Alpaca silk from Sandnes Yarn
together with 75 (100) 100 (125) 125 (150) g Thin silk mohair
from Sandnes Yarn.
PATTERN

Carla Tee is knitted from the bottom up with an elegant cable pattern at the center front. The
body is worked in the round until the armholes, where the work is divided, and the front and
back pieces are then knitted flat, back and forth. The shoulders are grafted together for a
seamless finish, before a high neckline and ribbed sleeve edges are worked to complete the
garment. You can choose to knit the neckline in ribbing or in stockinette stitch for a different
look.

SIZE GUIDE
Carla Tee is designed with a positive ease of approximately 2-5 cm. The sizes XS (S) M (L) XL
correspond to a bust measurement (measured on your body) of 80-85 (85-90) 90-95 (95-
100) 100-110 cm. Measure yourself before you start knitting to determine the best size for
you. In the photos, I sized down for a more fitted look. Feel free to go up or down a size
depending on how you want the garment to fit.

ABOUT DECREASES
The decreases are worked so they either slant right (K2tog) or left (skp).
They are worked as follows:
Skp (left-leaning): Slip one stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch over the knitted stitch.
K2tog (right-leaning): Knit 2 stitches together.

BODY
The body is worked in the round using double strands on a 3 mm circular needle (60 cm).

Work as follows:
Cast on 228 (240) 252 (268) 296 stitches on a 3 mm circular needle (60 cm). Make sure the
cast-on edge is not too tight. Work in 2x2 ribbing (k2, p2) in the round until the piece
measures 4 cm. Place a stitch marker at each side so that each section consists of 114 (120)
126 (134) 148 stitches. Continue in stockinette stitch while establishing the cable pattern at
the center front of the body.

ESTABLISHING THE CABLE


*Knit 46 (49) 52 (56) 63 stitches, purl 1, knit 20 stitches, purl 1, knit the remaining stitches of
the round*. Repeat from *-* for a total of 4 rounds.

Now work a left-leaning cable over the 20 center stitches:


Knit 46 (49) 52 (56) 63 stitches, purl 1, place 8 stitches on a cable needle and hold in front of
the work, knit 4 stitches, knit the 8 stitches from the cable needle, knit the remaining 8
stitches, purl 1, knit the remaining stitches of the round (see chart on page 6).

Continue knitting in the round following the chart until you have worked 9 rounds after the
first cable. Now, make another cable - this time leaning to the right.

2
Right-leaning cable over the 20 center stitches:
Knit 46 (49) 52 (56) 63 stitches, purl 1, knit 8 stitches, place 4 stitches on a cable needle and
hold behind the work, knit 8 stitches, then knit the 4 stitches from the cable needle, purl 1,
knit the remaining stitches of the round.

Repeat the cables every 10th round. Follow the cable pattern as shown in the chart.
Continue in stockinette stitch while maintaining the cable pattern until the piece measures
36 (37) 38 (39) 40 cm. Now it’s time to shape the armholes. Decrease 12 stitches on each
side - 6 stitches on each side of the stitch markers.

How to shape the armholes:


Start at the first stitch marker (beginning of the round).
Knit until 6 stitches remain before the next stitch marker, then work a 12 stitch bind off 12 as
follows:
Knit 2 stitches, *pass the first stitch over the second, knit 1 new stitch*, repeat from *-* until
12 stitches have been bound off. Continue in stockinette stitch until 6 stitches remain before
the next marker, then bind off another 12 stitches in the same way. Break the yarn.

The work is now divided, and the front and back pieces are worked separately, flat (back and
forth). Place the front stitches on a holder and begin working the back piece.

BACK YOKE
Begin on the right side of the work. Continue shaping the armholes with decreases as
follows:

XS/S: 4 - 3 - 2 - 2 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row


M/L: 5 - 4 - 2 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row
XL: 5 - 4 - 3 - 3 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row

Tip: To measure the armhole accurately, place a safety pin a few centimeters into the work
after knitting the first row. When measuring the armhole later, measure from this safety pin.

Here is a more detailed explanation of the armhole shaping - remember to follow the
number of decreases for your size:

Row 1 (RS): Bind-off 4 (5) 5 stitches, knit


Row 2 (WS): Bind-off 4 (5) 5 stitches, purl
Row 3 (RS): Bind-off 3 (4) 4 stitches, knit
Row 4 (WS): Bind-off 3 (4) 4 stitches, purl
Row 5 (RS): Bind-off 2 (3) 3 stitches, knit
Row 6 (WS): Bind-off 2 (3) 3 stitches, purl
Row 7 (RS): Bind-off 2 (2) 3 stitches, knit

3
Row 8 (WS): Bind-off 2 (2) 3 stitches, knit

After these 8 rows, decrease 1 stitch at each side on every other row.

Work as follows:
Row 1 (RS): Skp, knit until 2 stitches left on the needle, k2tog
Row 2 (WS): Purl

Repeat the 2 rows above a total of 11 (13) 6 (4) 1 times. The back piece now has 58 (60) 74
(86) 104 stitches. Continue knitting until the armhole measures approximately 17 (18) 20
(22) 23 cm. Bind off all stitches or place them on a thread to graft the shoulders later using
the Kitchener stitch.

FRONT YOKE
Now shape the armholes in the same way as for the back piece, as follows:

XS/S: 4 - 3 - 2 - 2 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row


M/L: 5 - 4 - 2 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row
XL: 5 - 4 - 3 - 3 stitches, then decrease 1 stitch every other row

After completing the first 8 rows, continue decreasing 1 stitch at each side every other row a
total of 3 (5) 2 (3) 1 times. The front piece now has 74 (76) 82 (88) 104 stitches. Continue
knitting until the armhole measures approximately 12 (13) 15 (17) 18 cm. This is about 5cm
shorter than the full length.

Now it’s time to shape the neckline. Knit 26 (27) 30 (33) 40 stitches, place the center 22 (22)
22 (22) 24 stitches on a holder, and knit to the end of the row. The front piece is now divided
into two, and each shoulder will be worked separately. Each shoulder has 26 (27) 30 (33) 40
stitches.

Now continue shaping the neckline by binding off stitches on every other row as follows:
Size XS/S: 2, 2, 2, 1 stitches
Size M/L: 3, 2, 2, 1 stitches
Size XL: 3, 3, 2, 2 stitches

Bind-off using the same method as when shaping the armholes. A more detailed explanation
of how to shape the shoulders follows below:

RIGHT SHOULDER
Row 1 (WS): Purl
Row 2 (RS): Bind off 2 (3) 3 stitches, knit
Row 3 (WS): Purl
Row 4 (RS): Bind off 2 (2) 3 stitches, knit
Row 5 (WS): Purl
4
Row 6 (RS): Bind off 2 stitches, knit
Row 7 (WS): Purl
Row 8 (RS): Bind off 1 (1) (2) stitches, knit

Knit until the work reaches the full length, then bind off the stitches or leave them on a
holder. There should be 19 (20) 22 (24) 30 stitches remaining on the needle. Work the left
shoulder in the same way, but mirrored.

LEFT SHOULDER
Row 1 (RS): Knit
Row 2 (WS): Bind off 2 (3) 3 stitches, purl
Row 3 (RS): Knit
Row 4 (WS): Bind off 2 (2) 3 stitches, purl
Row 5 (RS): Knit
Row 6 (WS): Bind off 2 stitches, purl
Row 7 (RS): Knit
Row 8 (WS): Bind off 1 stitch, purl

Knit until the work reaches the full length, then bind off the stitches or leave them on a
holder. There should be 19 (20) 22 (24) 30 stitches remaining on the needle.

SEAMING THE SHOULDERS


Sew the shoulders together. If you placed the shoulder stitches on a holder, graft them
together using the Kitchener stitch for a seamless finish.
´
NECKLINE
Pick up approximately 106 (114) 130 (146) 158 stitches
using a 3 mm circular needle (40 cm) around the
neckline (including the 22 stitches for the cable). Work
in 2×2 ribbing (k2, p2) while continuing the cable
pattern over the 22 stitches. Knit until the piece
measures approximately 7 cm or your desired length.
Bind off loosely. Alternatively, you can knit the neckline
in stockinette stitch, as shown in the photo below.

SLEEVES
Pick up approximately 112 (124) 140 (152) 164 stitches
using a 3 mm circular needle (40 cm). Work in 2×2
ribbing (k2, p2) until the piece measures 3 cm. Bind off
loosely.

FINISHING
Weave in all loose ends. Steam and block the garment to your desired shape.

5
CHART

LEGEND FOR CHART


Left-leaning cable: slip 8 sts onto cn / dpn in front
of work, k4, k8 from cn / dpn, k8.
Right-leaning cable: k8, slip sts onto cn / dpn
behind work, k8, k4 from cn / dpn.
Purl st
Knit st

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Enjoy your knitting!

6
ABBREVIATIONS
k knit
p Purl
K2tog right – leaning decrease; knit two stitches together
Sts Stitches
skp left-leaning decrease; slip 1 stitch knit-wise, k1, pass the slipped stitch
over the knitted stitch
M1L Increase, left-leaning: make one left (see increases)
cn cable needle
dpn double pointed needle
RS Right side of your work
WS Wrong side of your work

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