novemberknits

Montpellier Top

Sizes Suggested needles

1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) 5 mm circular needles (40 and 80 cm)
5.5 mm circular needles (80 cm)
Circumference of garment
92 (97) 103 (107) 116 (127) 137 (147) cm Gauge
14 sts x 20 rnds in stockinette stitch on 5.5 mm needles
Shoulder width of garment = 10 x 10 cm
38 (39.5) 41 (43) 43.5 (44.5) 45 (46) cm
Suggested yarn
Length of garment 350 (400) 400 (450) 500 (550) 600 (650) g Sandnes Garn
49 (50) 51 (53) 55 (56) 58 (60) cm Tykk Line (50g = 60m) held single or 400 (450) 450 (500)
(550) 600 (700) 750 g Sandnes Garn Line (50g = 110m)
held double
PATTERN
Montpellier Top is a summer top, which is worked from the top down. First, the back is worked, then stitches
are picked up to create the shoulder and neckline shaping. The edge stitches on both sides are worked in
rib pattern. Afterwards, the stitches for the front and back sections are gathered onto one needle, and the
body is worked in the round in stockinette stitch while the rib pattern is continued. The body is finished in
rib, and finally, stitches are picked up at the neckline to create the neckband, which is worked in rib. See
recommended help videos at www.novemberknits.com.

Sizes 1 (2) 3 (4) 5 (6) 7 (8) correspond to a bust circumference of approx. 85 (90) 95 (100) 110 (120) 130 (140)
cm. The measurements on the front page of this pattern are of the finished garment. Montpellier Top should
have a positive ease of approx. 7-8 cm. Knit a gauge swatch to find the needle size that gives you the
correct gauge.

About increases
M1R: Pick up the strand between two sts from back to front and knit the strand.
M1L: Pick up the strand between two sts from front to back and knit the strand through the back loop.

About edge stitches

The 9 outermost sts on each side are edge stitches and are always worked in rib (k1, p1). Always slip the
first edge st of each row, knitwise on the RS and purlwise with the yarn in front of the work on the WS.

Back
Cast on 54 (56) 58 (61) 62 (63) 64 (65) sts on 5.5 mm needles.

P1 (slipped), k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 (9 edge sts), place a st marker on the needle, purl until there are
9 sts remaining in the row, place a st marker on the needle, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1, k1, p1 (9 edge sts).
You are now on the RS of the work and have established the rib pattern for the edge sts on each side. Work
back and forth as the sts appear until the back measures 12 (12) 13 (13) 11 (10) 9 (8) cm.

You will now work increases to shape the armhole in every RS row:
1st row (RS): Work 9 edge sts, M1L, knit until the edge sts, M1R, work 9 edge sts.
2nd row (WS): Work back across the row as the sts appear.

Work these two rows a total of 7 (8) 8 (8) 11 (13) 16 (19) times (=68 (72) 74 (77) 84 (89) 96 (103) sts).

Work back and forth as the sts appear until the back measures 20 (21) 21 (22) 22 (23) 25 (26) cm.
Place the sts to rest on another knitting needle and break the yarn.

2
Left shoulder
Holding the RS of the back towards you, pick up 16 (16) 17 (18) 19 (19) 19 (19) sts from the left side of the
cast-on edge of the back with a 5.5 mm needle. Pick up 1 st in each st - start on the right and work towards
the left. Work back across the row in the established pattern. Note: Only the outermost st of the 9 edge sts
are slipped - the sts around the neckline are knitted, not slipped.

You are now on the RS, and sts are decreased to form the back side of the neck:
*K2, k2tog, knit until the end of the row. Work back across the row as the sts appear* Work from * to * a
total of 4 times (=12 (12) 13 (14) 15 (15) 15 (15) sts).

Work 2 rows (1 time back and forth) without working decreases. Place a marker in the work. It marks the
top between the back and front sections and is used to measure the length of the front later in the pattern.

Sts are now increased to create the shape of the neckline:

1st row (RS): K2, M1L, knit until the end of the row.
2nd row (WS): Work back across the row as the sts appear.
Work these two rows a total of 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (12) 12 (12) times (=23 (23) 24 (25) 26 (27) 27 (27) sts).
Place the sts to rest on another knitting needle and break the yarn.

Right shoulder
Pick up 16 (16) 17 (18) 19 (19) 19 (19) sts from the right side of the cast-on edge of the back.
Work back across the row in the pattern that has been established before. Note: sts at the neckline are
knitted, not slipped.

You are now on the RS, and sts are decreased to form the back side of the neck. *Knit until 4 sts remain in
the row, decrease 1 st with SSK (slip slip knit: slip 2 sts, place them back on the left needle, knit them
together through the back loop), knit the remaining sts. Work back across the row as the sts appear* Work
from * to * a total of 4 times (=12 (12) 13 (14) 15 (15) 15 (15) sts).

Work 2 rows (1 time back and forth) without working any decreases.

Sts are now increased to create the shape of the neckline:

1st row (RS): Knit until 2 sts remain in the row, M1R, knit the remaining sts.
2nd row (WS): Work back across the row as the sts appear.
Work these two rows a total of 11 (11) 11 (11) 11 (12) 12 (12) times (=23 (23) 24 (25) 26 (27) 27 (27) sts).
Do not break the yarn.

3
Front
The shoulder and neckline shaping are now finished, and the sts you have placed to rest (left shoulder) are
now knitted together with the sts you have on the needle (right shoulder): Knit across the right shoulder,
cast on 8 (10) 10 (11) 10 (9) 10 (11) sts with the backwards loop method, knit across the left shoulder, work
back across the row as the sts appear (=54 (56) 58 (61) 62 (63) 64 (65) sts).

Work 6 (6) 10 (10) 8 (4) 2 (0) rows.

You will now work increases to shape the armhole in every RS row:
1st row (RS): Work 9 edge sts, M1L, knit until the edge sts, M1R, work 9 edge sts.
2nd row (WS): Work back across the row as the sts appear.
Work these two rows a total of 6 (7) 8 (8) 11 (13) 16 (19) times (=66 (70) 74 (77) 84 (89) 96 (103) sts).

For sizes 1 and 2, 2 sts are increased as follows: Work 2 rows, work 9 edge sts, M1L, knit until the edge
sts, M1R, work 9 edge sts, work back across the row as the sts appear (=68 (72) sts).

Work back and forth until the front measures 25 (26) 26 (27) 27 (28) 30 (31) cm from the stitch marker that
marks the top and is the same length as the back.

Body
The front and back sections are now knitted together, and sts are cast on for the underarms.
The rib pattern of the edge sts continues. Knit across the front, cast on 1 (1) 1 (3) 3 (5) 5 (5) sts with the
backwards loop method, knit across the back, cast on 1 (1) 1 (3) 3 (5) 5 (5) sts with the backwards loop
method (=138 (146) 150 (160) 174 (188) 202 (216) sts). The round begins underneath the right arm, after the
1st (1st) 1st (1st) 1st (3rd) 3rd (3rd) st you cast on. The new sts are included in the rib pattern, so look at the
sts to know which sts are knitted and which are purled.

Knit in the round in stockinette stitch (with ribbing on each side) until the total length of the work, measured
from the st marker that marks the top, measures 45 (46) 47 (49) 51 (52) 54 (56) cm, or is 4 cm shorter than
the desired length.

For sizes 1, 2, 3, 5, and 7, 1 round is worked where 2 sts are decreased, as follows: Work the edge sts,
k2tog, knit until the edge sts, work the edge sts, k2tog, knit until the beginning of the round (=136 (144) 148
(172) 200 sts).

Change to a 5 mm needle, and work in rib (k1, p1) for 4 cm.

Cast off using double knitting and the Italian bind-off (for an easier cast-off method, you can cast off in rib):

4
1st rnd: *K1, slip 1 purlwise with the yarn in front of both needles*, repeat from * to * across the round.
2nd rnd: *Slip 1 purlwise with the yarn behind both needles, p1*, repeat from * to * across the round.
3rd rnd: Cast off using the Italian bind-off.

Neckband
The ribbing at the neckline is worked on a 5 mm circular needle (40 cm). Pick up approx. 84 (84) 86 (86) 86
(86) 88 (88) sts around the neckline – it is recommended to pick up 1 st in each st on the front and the back.
Work 4 cm in rib (k1, p1). Cast off using double knitting and the Italian bind-off, and make sure that your
bind-off is tight. It is recommended to sew an elastic thread into the neckband to help it keep its shape so
that it doesn’t stretch out.

The top on the front page is knitted in Sandnes Garn Tykk Line (3819)

Ane Fiskum Sunde © COPYRIGHT 2022

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This pattern is for private use only, and is not to be copied, shared, or sold.
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