Top Amy

About the Amy Top: Finished garment measurements:

The Amy top is knitted from the top down in
stockinette stitch. It starts by knitting the shoulders A: Length:
with short rows, then continues to the armholes.
After that, the front and back pieces are joined, (41) 43 (45) 47 (49) 51 (53) cm
and the front neckline and collar are worked. (16.1) 16.9 (17.7) 18.5 (19.2) 20 (20.8)”
Finally, it is joined in the round and knitted to the
desired length. B: Armhole:

(20,5) 21 (21,5) 22 (23) 23,5 (24) cm

Sizes: (7.8) 8.3 (8.5) 8.9 (9.1) 9.3 (9.4) ″
(80-85) 85-90 (90-95) 95-100 (100-110) 110-120 C:Bust circumference:
(120-130) cm
(88) 94 (99.5) 105 (115) 120,5 (133) cm
(31.5-33.5) 33,5-35,5 (35.5-37.5) 37.5- 39.5 (39.5-
43.3) 43.3-47.3 (47.3-51.3) ′′ (33.8) (37) (39.2) (41.3) (45.2) (47.4) (52.4)”

To choose your size, I recommend measuring the

fullest part of your bust with a measuring tape and
comparing that measurement with the finished
garment measurements, considering how much
positive ease you prefer.
B
The top in the photo is size 1 and has a positive A
ease of 6 cm / 2.3 ′′. C
Choose the positive ease that you prefer.

Yarn:
Laguna blanca by Texandes (Argentinian yarn brand).
50 g = 115 meters. 60% merino wool, 25% viscose, 15%
linen.

(220) 250 (300) 350 (380) 400 (450) grams.

If you want a longer garment, increase the yarn

Recommended Needles:
4 mm/US 6 (body), 3,5 mm/ US 4, 3,75 mm/ US 5, (collar
and armhole) 3,25 mm/ US 3 (front v neck edge) circular
needles.

Gauge:
21 sts x 32 rows = 10x10 cm / 4 ′′ (blocked).

In stockinette stitch on 4 mm/US 6 needles, or size

necessary to obtain gauge.

Knitting a gauge swatch larger than 10 cm/4"is

recommended to ensure you have sufficient fabric to
count your stitches.

Additional Materials:
Stitch markers.
3 mm crochet hook.
Sewing needle.
Sewing thread of the same color as the yarn.
Tapestry needle.

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Abbreviations:
M1L: Left-leaning increase: lift the thread
CO: Cast-on. between the two needles from front to
back and knit through the back loop.
St (s): Stitch (es).
K2tog: Basic decrease, knit 2 sts together.
K: Knit.

P: Purl. P2tog: Basic decrease, knit 2 sts together as a

purl.
RS: Right side.
SL1WYIF: Slip 1 st as if to purl with yarn in front.
WS: Wrong side.
SL1WYIB: Slip 1 st as if to purl with yarn in back
Rep: Repeat.

PM: Place a st marker.

M1R: Right-leaning increase: lift the thread between

the two needles from back to front and knit.

Helpful Videos:
Long tail cast on method:
https://youtu.be/DanPQQRaIhw

Slip sts shoulder + pick up sts with the short tail:

https://youtu.be/h6gzX320Yw4

M1L M1R increases:

https://youtu.be/JfaJ8IyWQEE

German short rows:

https://youtu.be/QdyYTDNXfdo

Backwards loop cast-on:

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/1wsWG5wf_FQ

V neckline edge :

https://youtu.be/GzlT4BhiB5Y

Collar base:

https://youtu.be/xXrnJsBFG1U

Collar bind-off:

https://youtu.be/t7l0OSsiXI0

Join the body in the round.

https://youtu.be/ZbIN8C_Uqps

Italian bind off:

https://youtu.be/BU46Yn1a4yg
Icelandic bind-off:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ceOmSJ7gCI4

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 German short rows are used to shape the shoulders. Each time it says "turn," you should turn your work using the
short row technique. If you're not sure how to turn, refer to the links on page 2.

Important: The turning stitch created when you work the German short rows looks like a V or a double stitch. The
turning stitch should be worked as a single stitch; it is NOT two stitches.
Needle sizes indicated are based on the pattern's specified gauge; if you had to change needle size to get gauge,
use that size and not the one indicated in the pattern.

Back shoulders:
With 4 mm/US 6 needles and the long tail cast-on method, CO (70) 72 (78) 80 (84) 86 (90) sts. Cut the yarn.

Slip the first (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) sts without working them from the left to the right needle.

Joining a new ball of yarn, P (30) 32 (34) 36 (36) 38 (38), (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) sts remain on the left needle.Turn.

RS: K to the last (13) 13 (14) 14 (15) 15 (16) sts, turn.

WS: P to the last (13) 13 (14) 14 (15) 15 (16) sts, turn.

RS: K to the last (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) 8 (9) sts, turn.

WS:P to the last (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) 8 (9) sts, turn.

RS: K to end. (Knit the turning sts as you come to them)

WS: P to end. (Purl the turning sts as you come to them).

Continue working in stockinette stitch, as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K to end. (Place a locking stitch marker on this row for reference)
Row 2 (WS): P to end.

Rep the last 2 rows until you've worked (52) 52 (54) 54 (54) 54 (52) rows, counted from the locking marker you
placed; approx.(16.3) 16.25 (16.9) 16.9 (16.9) 16.9 (16.3) cm / (6.4) 6.4 (6.6) 6.6 (6.6) 6.6 (6.4) ′′. Ending on the WS.

Armhole increases:

RS: K2, M1R, K to the last 2 sts, M1L, K2. (2 sts increased)

WS: P to end.

Rep last 2 rows, (5) 6 (6) 7 (8) 9 (11) times total. (10) 12 (12) 14 (16) 18 (22) sts increased; (80) 84 (90) 94 (100) 104 (112)
sts on the needle. Cut yarn and place sts on hold.

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 Right front:
With 3 mm crochet hook, work on the (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) stitches you have on the shoulder, using slip stitch as
follows:

(See video, slip stitch, page.2)

1 2 3 4

From the RS, pass Take the yarn. Rep steps 1 to 3,

Pass it through the stitch.
the crochet hook passing the hook
through the edge stitch. through the next stitch.

5 6 7

You have 2 sts on the hook. Pass the first stitch You have 1 st. Rep steps 4, When there is 1 st left,
over the second. 5, and 6 until the shoulder cut the yarn and
is complete. pass it through the stitch.

With 4 mm/ US 6 needles and RS facing, using the short tail method, pick up and knit (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) sts
along the right shoulder, from right to left. Then, slide the needle to the left so that the opposite tip (with the working
yarn) is positioned at the shoulder ready to begin with the RS. (see short tail method video on page 2).

Since you have a chain from the previous step, pick up the sts through the upper loop of the chain only, as shown in
the pictures below.

Pick up the st The chain sts are equivalent

through the top side to the shoulder stitches. A decorative line will form.
of the V
formed by the chain.

RS

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 You will now shape the shoulder using German short rows. (See short row video on page 2)

RS: K to end.

WS: P to the last (13) 13 (14) 14 (15) 15 (16) sts, turn.

RS: K to end.

WS: P to the last (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) 8 (9) sts, turn.

RS: K to end.

WS: P to end. (P the turning sts as you come to them)

RS: K to end.

Continue working as follows:

Row 1 (WS): P to end. (Place a locking stitch marker on this row for reference)

Row 2 (RS): K to end

Rep last 2 rows (8) 7 (8) 8 (9) 9 (8) times total. (16) 14 (16) 16 (18) 18 (16) rows worked from the locking
marker, approx. (5) 4.3 (5) 5 (5.6) 5.6 (5) cm / (1.9) 1.6 (1.9) 1.9 (2.2) 2.2 (1.9)′′.

Ending on the RS.

Rep row 1 (WS).

Now you will work increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K to the last 3 sts, M1L, K3 (1 st increased).

Row 2 (WS): P to end

Rep last 2 rows (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (7) times total.

Row 1 (RS): K to the last 3 sts, M1L, K3 (1 st increased). Using the backward loop technique (see video p.2), CO (2) 2
(3) 3 (3) 3 (3) sts. (Place a locking stitch marker on the last CO sts for future reference)

Row 2 (WS): P to end.

(26) 27 (30) 31 (33) 34 (37) sts on the needles and you've worked (25) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33 (33) rows, approx. (7.8) 7.8 (8.4)
9.1 (9.7) 10.3 (10.3) cm / (3.1) 3.1 (3.3) 3.6 (3.8) 4 (4) ′′. Counted from the first locking marker you placed.

Now work chart A.1 until row (36) 38 (38) 38 (38) 38 (40). Cut the yarn, and leave the stitches on hold on a spare needle
or cable.

You have (40) 42 (45) 47 (50) 52 (57) sts on the needles.

Left front:
With a 3 mm crochet hook, work on the (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) stitches on the shoulder, using slip stitch, in the same
way you worked the other shoulder.

With 4 mm/ US 6 needles and RS facing, using the short tail method, pick up and knit (20) 20 (22) 22 (24) 24 (26) sts
along the left shoulder, from right to left. Then, slide the needle to the left so that the opposite tip (with the working
yarn) is positioned at the shoulder ready to begin with the RS.

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 You will now shape the shoulder using German short rows. (See short row video on page 2)

RS: K to end.

WS: P to end.

RS: K to the last (13) 13 (14) 14 (15) 15 (16) sts, turn.

WS: P to end.

RS: K to the last (6) 6 (7) 7 (8) 8 (9) sts, turn.

WS: P to end.

RS: K to end. (K the turning sts as you come to them)

Continue working as follows:

Row 1 (WS): P to end. (Place a locking marker on this row for reference).

Row 2 (RS): K to end.

Rep last 2 rows (8) 7 (8) 8 (9) 9 (8) times total. (16) 14 (16) 16 (18) 18 (16) rows worked from the locking
marker, approx (5) 4.3 (5) 5 (5.6) 5.6 (5) cm / (1.9) 1.6 (1.9) 1.9 (2.2) 2.2 (1.9)′′. Ending on the RS.

Rep row 1 (WS).

Now you will work increases as follows:

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1R, K to end. (1 st increased).

Row 2 (WS): P to end.

Work last 2 rows (3) 4 (4) 5 (5) 6 (7) times total.

Row 1 (RS): K3, M1R, K to end. (1 st increased.)

Row 2 (WS): P to end. Using the backward loop technique, CO (2) 2 (3) 3 (3) 3 (3) sts. (Place a locking stitch marker on
the last CO sts for future reference.)

You now have a total of (26) 27 (30) 31 (33) 34 (37) sts on the needles and you've worked (25) 25 (27) 29 (31) 33 (33)
rows, approx. (7.8) 7.8 (8.4) 9.1 (9.7) 10.3 (10.3) cm / (3.1) 3.1 (3.3) 3.6 (3.8) 4 (4) ′′. Counted from the first locking
marker you placed.

Now work chart A.2 until row (36) 38 (38) 38 (38) 38 (40). You have (40) 42 (45) 47 (50) 52 (57) sts on the needles.

Joining fronts and back:

You have worked the front and back pieces up to the armhole increases. Now, you will join them in the following way
on the RS of the fabric:

You are on the left front, work row (37) 39 (39) 39 (39) 39 (41) of chart A.2, which is the row marked with a red box. Using
the backwards loop technique, CO (10) 12 (12) 14 (18) 20 (24) stitches, then add the back piece. Knit until the end, CO
(10) 12 (12) 14 (18) 20 (24) stitches, add the front piece, and work row (37) 39 (39) 39 (39) 39 (41) of chart A.1. If you
want less positive ease, cast on fewer stitches on each side. You have (180) 192 (204) 216 (236) 248 (274) sts.

Work the back

CO sts CO sts
left. right.
A.2 A.1

If your size didn't finish the charts, continue knitting charts A.1 and A.2, working the back and the sts you cast on at
the sides in stockinette stitch.

Once the charts are finished, leave the body stitches on a spare needle or cable. Do not cut the yarn.
You now have a total of (182) 194 (206) 218 (238) 250 (276) sts.

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 Front neckline edge:

Right front:

On the RS:

With a 3.25 mm/US 3 needle and a new strand of yarn, pick up 1 st for each base st, starting from the bottom where
the sts are on hold, and working up to the edge where you cast on the neckline stitches, where you have the marker
as a reference.

Once the sts are picked up, using the provisional cast-on technique (see neckline edge video, p.2), CO 6 stitches. You
will work the buttonband as follows:

WS: *K1, SL1 WYIF*, rep from * to * to the last 2 sts K1, P2tog. (Knit two stitches together: 1 stitch from the 6 CO sts
and 1 st from the picked-up stitches).

RS: SL1 WYIB, *SL1 WYIF, K1*, rep from * to * to the last st, SL1 WYIF.

Rep the last two rows until all the CO sts have been worked. Leave the stitches on hold.

I suggest steaming this edge to relax the fibers and see the final result. It should be the same length as the diagonal
on the left side. If it forms waves, you should pick up fewer stitches. Cut the yarn.

Stitch marker

Left front:

On the RS:

With a 3.25 mm/US 3 needle and a new strand of yarn, pick up 1 st for each base st. starting from where you CO the
neckline sts up to the sts on hold.
Once the sts are picked up in the front, using the backward loop technique, CO 6 sts.

You will work the buttonband as follows:

WS: *K1, SL1 WYIF*, rep from * to * to the last 2 sts , K1, P2tog. (Knit two sts together: 1 st from the 6 CO sts and 1 st
from the picked-up sts).

RS: SL1WYIB, *SL1 WYIF, K1*, rep from * to * to the last st, SL1WYIF.

Rep the last two rows until all the CO sts have been worked. Finish on the WS. (If you didn’t finish on the WS, simply
remove the last CO st). Hold the sts on the needle. Do not cut the yarn.

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 Collar base:
You are on the WS.

You have the 6 sts from the previous step on your right-hand needle. You will pick up the sts with the help of another
pair of needles: one will be the main needle 3.25 mm/US 3, and the other will be the spare needle. If you don’t have
a spare needle in the same size as the main needle, you can use one that is half a size smaller or larger. Each time you
pick up a st, wrap the yarn around the spare needle as shown in the photos below.
Pick up and knit 1 st for each CO st at the front neckline. Then, continue picking up 3 sts for every 4 rows until you
reach the shoulder line. Next, pick up all the sts along the back neck (pick up the st as shown in photo 3). Keep picking
up 3 sts for every 4 rows until you reach the CO sts at the other front neckline. Finally, pick up 1 st for each CO st.

Pick up all the sts along the edge, except for the back neck, which is picked up as shown in photo 3.

See supporting video, page. 2.

1 2 3 4
Spare needle
cable

WS

WS: Pass Wrap the cable of At the back neck, Continue working as
the needle through the spare needle pick up the st from in steps 1 and
the edge st and over the top.Rep steps the lower side of the 2 until finished.
pick up a st, taking 1 and 2 until V of the edge st. Cut the yarn
the yarn. you reach the back neck. Not from the entire st.

With the help of the Pass the 6 sts that you You have 3 sts on
crochet hook, pass the Leave the end had on hold the main needle
yarn from the RS of the yarn in the from the front edge. and 3 on the spare
to the WS. To make the middle. This will hide it. Pass one st to each needle.
last wrapped st, needle, alternating.
pass it from the spare
needle.

You have the same number of sts on the main needle as on the spare needle.

Turn the work, you are on the RS. With the 3.25 mm / US 3 needle and a new strand of yarn, knit the stitches from the
spare needle (which is on the RS). Leave the stitches from the main needle on hold.

Row 1 (RS): K to the last st, SL1 WYIB. Keep in mind that the last 6 stitches you have on this row of the V-neck edge
should be distributed evenly, 3 stitches on each needle, just like you did on the other side.

Row 2 (WS): P to the last st, SL1 WYIF. RS, slide the main needle
to the right, so only the
Row 3 (RS): K to end. cable remains, making it
easier to work the sts
on the spare needle.
Spare needle

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 Turn the work to the WS. With the 3.25 mm / US 3 needle, work the sts on the main needle and leave the spare needle
sts on hold.”

Row 1 (WS): K to the last st, SL1 WYIB.

Row 2 (RS): P to the last st, SL1 WYIF.
Row 3 (WS): Rep Row 1.
Slide the spare needle to the
right, so only the cable
remains, making it easier to
work the sts on the main
needle.

Turn the work, you are on the RS. You have both needles with the same number of sts. You will work a P2tog (see photo
3), taking one st from the spare needle and one st from the main needle. Continue working until all stitches have been
worked.
1 2 3

Collar:
Turn the work, you are on the WS, change to a 3.5 mm / US 4 needle. Work as follows:

Row 1 (WS): K to the last st, SL1 WYIB.

Row 2 (RS): P to the last st, SL1 WYIF.

Rep Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 3 cm. Change to a 3.75 mm / US 5 needle.
Continue working Rows 1 and 2 until you have worked 2.5 cm/0,9" more, or a total of 5.5 cm/2.2" from the row 1.

Finish on the RS. (In the last row of the RS, work the last st as P).

3.75 mm/US 5
5.5 cm
3.5 mm/US 4
Bind off the sts as follows:
1 2 3 4 5

Insert the needle through Pick up the And place it on the K2tog the first two You have 1 st
the stitch below. horizontal strand. needle. stitches. on the right hand needle.
6 7

Don’t bind off too tightly, as it can affect the

edge of the collar and cause it to curl. If you’re
using a yarn that makes the bind-off look a bit
thick, you can try the Icelandic bind-off (see the
video on page 2).
Rep steps 6 and 7
Rep, Rep, fromfrom
to 4. step 1 Pass the first stitch until all sts have been
over the second.
worked.

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 Join body in the round:
You are going to join the front pieces and the back to work in the round. You have the body sts on hold, plus the 6 sts
on hold from the right front edge.

Start with the left front, where you have the working yarn. Using a crochet hook and the same working yarn, pick up 3
stitches along the edge where the neckline sts were bound off (see photos below).

With the help of

a crochet hook,
pick up the 3 stitches.
Continue knitting the left front, the back, and the right front in stockinette stitch until 1 st remains. You have 1 unworked
st on the right front and the 6 sts on hold from the front edge.

Transfer the 3 sts you picked up on the left front to a spare needle (photo 1). Place that needle behind the work.
Transfer the 6 held sts to the left-hand needle, along with the unworked st from the right front. (photo 2).

Work K2tog (photo 3). You now have 5 unworked sts on the left needle (from the ones you just passed over) and the 3
sts on the spare needle (photo 4).

1 2 3 4

Knit 3 sts together as a knit: the first 2 from the left-hand needle and 1 stitch from the spare needle (photo 5).

Rep the same with the next 3 stitches (photo 6). You will have 1 stitch on each needle (photo 7). Knit these 2 stitches
together as K2tog. Now the front is joined in the round. PM; this will be the beginning of the round.
5 6 7 8

PM here, this marks the beginning of the round.

(See support video, page. 2).

You have (185) 197 (209) 221 (241) 253 (279) sts in total. Continue knitting in the round until you have (21) 22 (23) 24
(25) 26 (27) cm / (8,2) 8,6 (9) 9,4 (9,8) 10,2 (10,6)′′ knitted, or to the desired length.

Measure from the bottom of the armhole, where you CO the side sts.

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 Switch to 3.75 mm/US 5 needles, and work the body ribbing as follows:

Round 1: *K1, P1*, rep from * to * to end. (In the middle of the back, K2tog when you reach a K st to get an even
number of sts, work this decrease only once.)

Work the last row, 2 times total.

Round 3: *K1, SL1 WYIF*, rep from * to * to end.

Round 4: SL1 WYIB, P1, rep from * to * to end.

Bind off with the Italian bind-off (see video, page. 2). Pay attention to the join in the round, as the join of the bind-off
is positioned at the center of the front.

Armhole trim:
With 3.5 mm/US 4 needles, pick up 1 st for each row st. Start at the center of the underarm, where you CO the sts to
join the back with the front. This will be the beginning of your round. Once the sts are picked up, check that you have
an even number. If you tend to knit tightly, switch to 3.75 mm/US 5 needles to avoid tightening the armhole
circumference or if you knit loosely, size down to 3 mm/US 2.5 needles.

Work as follows:

Round 1: K1, P1, rep * to * to end.

Work the last row, 3 times total.

If you want to knit more rows to have a wider border, do it now before working the last 2 rows below.

Round 3: *K1, SL1 WYIF*, rep* to * to end.

Round 4: *SL1 WYIB, P1*, rep * to * to end.

Bind off using the Italian bind-off technique.

Finishing:
Wet block your garment to the finished measurements given on page 1. Check out this video on how to remove water
from your hand-knits without damaging your garment.

https://youtube.com/shorts/KczKyQmUsXM?feature=share

For a neater finish, once dry use steam to improve the final look of the fabric. Watch here:

https://youtu.be/ScgsGpa5ZwY

With thread of the yarn and a When you weave in the yarn ends The decorative lines on the back, such
sewing needle, make a small seam at the collar, be very meticulous as the ones on the shoulder and back
on the wrong side (inside) to secure with the corners to ensure they are neck, should be aligned. Be careful
the two pieces of fabric. neatly finished, as shown in the when weaving in the ends to ensure
photo. everything is aligned.

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 Charts:
RS: K. WS: P.

How to read charts M1L.

M1R.

The red boxes on Charts A1 and A2 mark the row

where the back and fronts are joined.

The blue boxes on Charts A1 and A2 indicate the

stitch repeat.
For example, if it says X4, work the sts in the blue
box 4 times. If the box contains 5 sts, you will work
20 sts in total.
Charts are read from the bottom up.
RS rows are read from right to left.
WS rows are read from left to right.

RS: Odd numbers

Left Right
WS: Even numbers A.2 A.1

Modification to Raise the V-Neck Depth:

To raise the V-neck, you have two options:

Reduce the number of rows between each V-neck increase

to complete the shaping sooner.

Remove the last increase(s) and place them higher up on ML

the Right Side rows.

Keep in mind that 1 cm/ 0.9” is approximately 3.2 rows,

so if you'd like to raise the neckline by 2 cm/ 0.7”, you ML
would need to finish about 6–7 rows earlier

Example – Size 1:

In the chart example, the last 2 increases were simply

placed a bit higher up. This way, the shaping is completed
earlier — at row 34 (green box) instead of row 40.

In this case, you can join the V-neck (front) at row 35 (RS)
while working the last armhole increase. Follow the
instructions on page 10, but work flat: starting at the right
front, follow the instructions for this side, pick up the 3
stitches as instructed for the left side, and continue
knitting to the end.

Then, join the body in the round at row 37, following the
instructions on page 6 — but work in the round, since the
front has already been joined.

In this particular case, you join the front first and then the
body in the round, because the V-neck shaping is
completed before the armhole.

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 Size 1
A.1

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 Size 1
A.2

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 Size 2
A.1

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 Size 2
A.2

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 Size 3
A.1

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 Size 3
A.2

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 Size 4
A.1

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 Size 4
A.2

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 Size 5
A.1

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 Size 5
A.2

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 Size 6
A.1
A.1

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 Size 6
A.2

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 Size 7
A.1

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 Size 7
A.2

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 Mochi knits ©COPYRIGHT 2025.

This pattern is for personal use only, not commercial reproduction.

Share your project using #mochiknits #Amytop Instagram @mochi.knits

For questions or concerns regarding this pattern, email me at :

mochi.knits@gmail.com

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