Auguste
Sweater
Pattern
written by kolibri by johanna
Sweater with a cable pattern and decorative raglan increases in sizes XS/S | M/L | XL/XXL
Note: This pattern is written in British English, so all measurements in chart are in cm.
Materials: Abbreviations: Notes:
- 125/150| 150/175 | 200 g St/sts = stitch/stitches Edge stitch = knit stitch
Soft Silk Mohair by Knitting R/rs = row/rounds Raglan increases: in every right
for Olive (225 m/ 25 g) rsr = right side row side row (every second round),
- 200/225 | 250/300 | 350 g wsr = wrong side row you make 1 right/left before and
Cotton Merino by Knitting k = knit after the 8 raglan stitches. In
for Olive (250 m/50 g) p = purl wrong side rows (the round after
Note: If you use different SM = stitch marker the increases), you knit all sts as
yarn, check the yardage RS = raglan stitch they appear.
to be sure you have the
right amount of yarn. The sweater is knitted with two
- 4.5 mm und 3.5 mm Structure: strands of yarn held together: 1
circular knitting needles strand of Cotton Merino and 1
(optional: DPNs for the The sweater is knitted top down strand of Soft Silk Mohair.
sleeves), cable needle with raglan increases. The
- Darning needle cable pattern is all over body
- Stitch markers/ leftovers and sleeve and is also pictured
on the raglan lines. The cable Raglan Increases: the yoke of
Knitting Tension: pattern is alternated with stripes the sweater is formed with
in stockinette stitch. To prepare raglan increases. For each
- 10x10 cm = 23 sts x 32 rs in for the round neck, you knit raglan line (4 in total), there is a
pattern, with two threads of back and forth in rows, until the central raglan stitch, which is
yarn held together in pattern front parts are joined. You marked with stitch markers.
on 4.5 mm knitting needles
continue with the increases until Before and after the central
(wet blocked
you have reached a certain raglan stitch, you are going to
number of sts for the sleeves, increase in every right side
then you stop the increases for round 1 stitch (make 1
the sleeves and just continue right/make 1 left).
Measurements with the increases for the body, Make 1 right: Insert your needle
until you have reached the under the strand of yarn
Bust circumference finished total number of sts to separate between the stitch you have just
sweater: the sleeves from the body. The knitted and the RS from back to
- 93/99 | 115/120 | 135 cm with body is finished in one piece front and place it on your left
a positive ease of 15 to 25 cm. and with a hem in 1x1 ribbed needle. Knit it through the front
pattern with twisted knit loop.
Length:
stitches. Afterwards the sleeves Make 1 left: Insert your needle
- 50 | 55| 60 cm
are finished the same way as under the strand of yarn
Sleeve length (from under the the body and a collar in 1x1 between the RS and the next
armpits): twisted ribbing is going to be stitch you are going to knit from
- 35 cm (+ 8 cm hem) attached to the round neck. front to back and place it on
your left needle. Knit it through
The fit is oversized, the length is the back loop so that it is
Sleeve width: 27| 37 | 45 cm
cropped for a modern look with twisted.
a classic cable design.
2
Body
You start knitting the neck opening by working rows back and forth to add shaping and then connecting in
the round. After you have closed your work to the round, you make the first “cable round”, where you slip
the first 3 sts of the cable stripes on a different needle, knit the next 3 sts and the slipped 3 sts after that. After
that you knit for 12 more rounds in pattern, before you make the next “cable round”. Additionally, you will
find options of how to establish the crossing for the cable pattern on p. 5.
Remember to make the raglan increases in every second round (= 8 increases per round in total). As soon
as you have reached a certain number of sts, you leave out the increases for the sleeves and just continue
with the increases for front and back in every second round (= 4 increases per round). After separating the
sleeves from the body, the cable pattern of the raglan lines is added to the body, which is finished in one
piece and with a hem in 1x1 twisted ribbing.
Cable pattern
Basic pattern: There are two stripes: one stripe in stockinette stitch (4 sts) and one stripe with a cable pattern
(6 sts), which are separated by purl sts. Therefore, you knit as follows: *k4, p1, k6 (cable pattern), p1*. From *
to * is repeated steadily and due to the raglan increases, it is growing from round to round as the increases
are worked into the pattern.
cable pattern for the raglan lines: for each raglan line there are 8 sts, which are worked in the cable pattern
too: p1, k6 (cable pattern), p1.
Raglan
Cast on 58 | 70| 82 sts on your 4.5 mm knitting needles, with two threads of yarn held together (1 thread of
cotton merino and 1 thread of mohair) and your preferred cast-on-method. The first row after casting on is
a wsr, where you place the stitch markers (SM). Knit as follows:
Size XS/S: k1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, k1, p6, k1, p4, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, SM, k1, p6,
k1, SM, k1.
Size M/L: k1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p1, k1, p4, k1, p1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p1, k1, p4, k1, p6, k1, p4, k1, p1, SM, k1,
p6, k1, SM, , p1, k1, p4, k1, p1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, k1.
Size XL/XXL: k1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p3, k1, p4, k1, p3, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p3, k1, p4, k1, p6, k1, p4, k1, p3, SM,
k1, p6, k1, SM, p3, k1, p4, k1, p3, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, k1.
brown = front/back
blue = cable pattern for the raglan stitches
lilac = sleeves
On the following page you will find a diagram overview of the stripe pattern layout for all sizes. Additionally,
you will find on the page after that knitting charts for back and sleeves of how to start knitting with the basic
pattern when you are making the raglan increases.
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Overview basic pattern for body and sleeves:
Schematic with an overview about how the pattern continues while forming the yoke. The grey stripes are
for the cable pattern, the white stripes indicate the stockinette stitch stripes in between.
Body:
For all sizes, you start with a middle cable pattern stripe with a stockinette stitch stripe before and after that.
For sizes M/L and XL/XXL there are a few more stitches for the next cable pattern stripes included. After
forming the yoke and before separating the sleeves, you should have knitted 7 | 9 | 11 cable pattern
stripes and 8 | 10 | 12 stockinette stitch stripes.
Important is, that you finish the yoke with a stockinette stitch stripe next to the cable pattern of the raglan
stitches – otherwise, the pattern will not work out after separating the sleeves from the body.
Sleeves:
For all sizes, start with a stockinette stitch stripe. For sizes M/L and XL/XXL there are a few more stitches for the
next cable pattern stripe. Until you have reached the total number of sts for the sleeves, you should have
knitted 6 | 6 | 8 cable pattern stripes and 5 | 7 | 9 stockinette stitch stripes.
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Knitting chart for the basic pattern while making the first rows/rounds of the yoke:
Back (after joining the neckline the knitting chart is the same for the front part):
Please note:
One box is one stitch in every row/round. There are pictured ALL rows (RSR and WSR). The raglan increases
take place in every RSR (odd rows), as soon as you have joined the neckline of the front part, you make the
raglan increases in every second round (odd rounds).
The stitches for size XS/S are marked red, the number of stitches for size M/L is highlighted blue and the
stitches for size XL/XXL is highlighted green.
R 1 is the cast-on-row, R 2 is the first WSR where you place the SM and knit the basic pattern for the first time.
Symbols (when knitting back and forth in rows):
= k in RSR, p in WSR
= p in RSR, k in WSR
The black/orange line indicates the crossing of the stitches for the cable pattern (more information below).
Crossing of the stitches for the cable pattern:
In every 13th row/round you are going to cross the 6 sts of the cable pattern stripes. To start with the crossing,
you have two options: If you are following the written instructions, the first crossing for the cable pattern
takes place in R 19 (black line). This makes it easier to establish the basic pattern during the raglan
increases.
If you feel comfortable with the raglan construction/the basic pattern, you can start in R 7 with the crossing
for the cable pattern. The 2nd crossing will take place in R 20 – in round later than instructed in the written
instructions for the 1st crossing. If you start with the cable pattern in R 7, you can only make the crossing for
the back and the raglan lines – the crossing for the front and the sleeves will start in R 20.
5
Sleeves:
Please note:
One box is one stitch in every row/round. There are pictured ALL rows (RSR and WSR). The raglan increases
take place in every RSR (odd rows), as soon as you have joined the neckline of the front part, you make the
raglan increases in every second round (odd rounds).
The stitches for size XS/S are marked red, the number of stitches for size M/L is highlighted blue and the
stitches for size XL/XXL is highlighted green.
R 1 is the cast-on-row, R 2 is the first WSR where you place the SM and knit the basic pattern for the first time.
Symbols (when knitting back and forth in rows):
= k in RSR, p in WSR
= p in RSR, k in WSR
The black line for the crossing of the stitches for the cable pattern refers to the written instructions, the
orange line indicates an option of how to establish the cable pattern (described on p. 5).
From the next right side row onwards, k as follows:
Size XS/S: k1, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k 4, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left,
k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k4, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1
6
left, k1.
Size M/L: K1, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM,
make 1 left, k1, p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1, k1, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k1, p1, k4, p1, k1,
make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k1.
Size XL/XXL: K1, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k3, p1, k4, p1, k3, make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1,
SM, make 1 left, k3, p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1, k3, make 1, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k3, p1, k4, p1, k3,
make 1 right, SM, p1, k6, p1, SM, make 1 left, k1.
In the next wrong side row, you work the increased raglan stitches according to the established basic
pattern:
Size XS/S: K1, p1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, k1, p4, k1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, k1, p4, k 1, p6, k1, p4, k1, SM, k1, p6, k1,
SM, k1, p4, k1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p1, k1.
Size M/L: K1, p1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p2, k1, p4, k1, p6, k1, p4, k1, p2,
SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p2, k1, p4, k1, p2, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p1, k1.
Size XL/XXL: K1, p1, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, k1, p4, k1, p4, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, k1, p4, k1, p6, k1, p4, k1, p4,
SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p4, k1, p4, k1, p4, SM, k1, p6, k1, SM, p1, k1.
brown = front/back
blue = cable pattern for the raglan stitches
lilac = sleeves
Repeat the instructions for these two rows two more times – and continue to work in the raglan increases
into the basic pattern. Exception for now is the left and the right front part, there, k all sts. In wrong side rows,
you k all sts as they appear (purl the purl stitches and knit the knit stitches).
From the next right side row onwards, make 1 left after the first 3 sts and make 1 right before the last 3 sts of
a row to form the round neck. Continue to make the raglan increases and to work in the increased stitches
into the basic pattern. In wrong side rows, you continue to knit all sts as they appear. Repeat the instructions
for the increases of the round neck in total 4 times (= 8 rows). Then, you are going to join the left and the
right front part:
Connecting the neckline
Before you join the two ends of the neckline, you should have the following numbers of sts per each part on
your knitting needles
Size Left RS Left RS Back RS Right RS Right TOTAL
front sleeve sleeve front
XS/S 12 8 18 8 30 8 18 8 12 122
M/L 12 8 22 8 34 8 22 8 12 134
XL/XXL 12 8 26 8 38 8 26 8 12 146
Continue to make the raglan increases and the increases after the first and before the last stitch of a row
(=10 increases). After you have knitted the last sts, cast on 4 | 8 | 12 new sts and close your work to the
round. Place a stitch marker – this is your new beginning of the round. K for one more row all sts as they
appear and without any raglan increases.
Now you should have the following numbers of sts for each part on your knitting needles:
Size RS Left RS Back RS Right RS front TOTAL
sleeve sleeve
XS/S 8 20 8 32 8 20 8 32 136
M/L 8 24 8 36 8 24 8 36 152
XL/XXL 8 28 8 40 8 28 8 40 168
You will now work the front and back in the established pattern without any differences.
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First cable pattern round:
After joining both front parts, you are going to work the first cable stitch crossing round. While you are doing
that, continue to make the raglan increases before and after the 8 RS. For each stripe in cable pattern, you
knit as follows: slip the first 3 sts on a different needle (e. g. cable needle), hold them ABOVE your work, and
k the next 3 sts before working the 3 sts on hold to create the cable. After you have knitted the stockinette
stitch stripe, repeat the instructions for the next cable pattern stripe.
K for 12 rounds in basic pattern, until you are going to make the next cable pattern round in R13. Remember
to make the raglan increases. Please note, that the cable pattern rounds can take place in rounds without
raglan increases too.
Repeat the raglan increases and the cable pattern rounds until you have the following numbers of sts per
each part on your knitting needles:
Size Front RS Left RS Back RS Right RS TOTAL
sleeve sleeve
XS/S 78 8 66 8 78 8 66 8 320
M/L 90 8 78 8 90 8 78 8 368
XL/XXL 112 8 100 8 112 8 100 8 456
Now, leave out the raglan increases for the sleeves, but continue with the raglan increases for back and
front (= 4 increases in every second round). Remember to continue with the cable pattern rounds in every
13th round – as well as for body, sleeves and raglan lines.
Repeat the instructions as long as you have reached the following amount of stitches per each part:
Size Front RS Left RS Back RS Right RS TOTAL
sleeve sleeve
XS/S 88 8 66 8 88 8 66 8 340
M/L 112 8 78 8 112 8 78 8 412
XL/XXL 136 8 100 8 136 8 100 8 504
Separation of the sleeves:
In the next round (without raglan increases), put the sleeve stitches to rest on some spare yarn or stitch
holders. The raglan sts in cable pattern are now integrated to the basic pattern of the body. Therefore, cast
on 4 new sts under each armpit – this will be a stockinette stitch stripe between the two cable pattern stripes
of the raglan lines. You should now have in total 216 | 264 |312 sts on your knitting needles.
For sizes XS/S and M/L:
If you prefer more positive ease, you can cast on more stitches under the armpits. Therefore, cast on 16 sts
under each armpit and to make the pattern work, knit as follows in the next round: k4, p1, k6, p1, k4. For size
XS/S, you should have 240 sts on your knitting needles, for size M/L you should have in total 288 sts.
Finishing the body:
You are finishing the body without any increases, but remember to make the cable pattern rounds in every
13th round.
You should do the cable pattern rounds for 4 | 4 | 3 times (= 52 | 52 | 39 rounds). Then, k 8 more rounds in
basic pattern, until you are changing the needle size to finish the body with a 1x1 ribbed pattern with
twisted knit stitches.
Of course, you can make the body longer referring to your individual measurements. I recommend to
always knit for 8 more rounds after the last cable pattern round, before you start with the ribbing.
Hem:
8
Change to 3.5 mm knitting needles and finish the body in 1x1 ribbed pattern. Therefore, *k1bl, p1*, repeat
from * to * until the end of the row. Continue the twisted ribbing for 14 more rounds and cast off all sts (e. g.
elastic bind-off method) in the next round.
Sleeves
Put your sleeve stitches back onto 4.5 mm knitting needles and start knitting with new strands of yarn (1
thread of cotton merino and 1 thread of mohair held together). To make the cable pattern work, you have
to pick up different numbers of sts for each size. Please note, that the numbers are different to the stitches
casted on under the armpits for the body, because the pattern has to work out.
Stitches under the armpits:
Size XS/S: Pick up 6 sts directly under the armpit. They are integrated into the pattern as follows: p1, k4, p1 to
make a stockinette stitch stripe from the next round onwards. You should now have 72 sts on your knitting
needles.
If you have decided to go for more positive ease for the body, I recommend to pick up 18 sts under the
armpits and to integrate them into the pattern as follows: p1, k4, p1, k6, p1, k4, p1. You should now have 84
sts on your knitting needles.
Size M/L: Pick up 6 sts out of the body directly under the armpit. These 6 sts will be a cable pattern stripe. You
should have in total 84 sts on your knitting needles.
If you have decided to go for more positive ease for the body, I recommend to pick up 18 sts out of the
body directly under the armpits. They are integrated into the pattern as follows: k6, p1, k4, p1, k6. You should
have in total 96 sts on your knitting needles.
Size XL/XXL: Pick up 8 sts out of the body directly under the armpit. These 8 sts will be a cable pattern stripe
and integrated into the pattern as follows: p1, k6, p1. You should now have in total 108 sts on your knitting
needles.
Place a stitch marker in the middle of the new picked up stitches to mark your new beginning of the round.
Finishing the sleeves in pattern:
Continue with the cable pattern and the crossing of the stitches of the cable pattern stripes in every 13 th
round. After 7 | 7 | 6 cable pattern rounds, your sleeves should be long enough to prepare the decreases
for the hem (+ 10 cm length for the decreases and the hem).
Decreases and hem:
K as follows:
K for 4 rounds in basic pattern.
R 5: Make the decreases for the stockinette stitch stripes as follows: Slip the first stitch of the stockinette stitch
stripe knitwise, k the next stitch, pull the slipped stitch over the worked stitch. Then, knit 2 together. The cable
pattern stripes/ purl stitches are continued without decreases.
R 6: K all sts as they appear.
R 7: K the two last stitches of the stockinette stitch stripes together.
R 8: K all sts as they appear.
Change to 3.5 mm knitting needles and finish your sleeve in 1x1 ribbed pattern. Therefore, *p1, k1bl* and
repeat from * to * until the end of the round. Additionally, you knit 2 together when knitting the last two sts of
the cable pattern stripes to make sure, that the basic pattern flows into the ribbing of the hem the
smoothest way possible.
9
Then, k for 19 more rounds in 1x1 ribbing with twisted knit stitches and cast off all sts in the next round (I
recommend to use an elastic bind-off method).
Repeat the instructions for the second sleeve.
Double folded collar
To finish your sweater, you are going to attach a collar in 1x1 ribbed pattern with twisted knit stitches to the
round neck.
Therefore, pick up 92 | 100 | 108 sts with your 3.5 mm knitting needles and with two threads of yarn held
together (1 thread of cotton merino and 1 thread of mohair) along the neckline. Knit in 1x1 twisted rib
pattern, starting with *k1bl, p1* and repeat from * to * until the end of the round.
Continue with the twisted ribbing for in total 22 | 24 | 30 rounds and cast off all sts elastically in the next
round. Fold the collar in the middle to the inside of your sweater and sew the cast-off-row to the pick-up-
row of the collar.
10
Completion
Wet block your sweater and let him dry flat. Weave in all ends.
Your new handmade Auguste Sweater is finished!
I would be thrilled to see your progress and your result! If you like, share them on
Instagram with the Hashtag #augustesweater and tag me @kolibri.by_johanna
© 2022 – by Johanna Gehrisch
This pattern is for private use only. It is not permitted to copy, resell or distribute the pattern or to sell knits made following this
pattern. I accept no liability for the information provided in the pattern and cannot vouch for its accuracy. Subject to
change without notice.
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