Sizes:
Rhue Sweater
1 (2, 3, 4, 5, 6) (7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12)
Finished chest circumference: 80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) (128, 136, 144, 152, 160, 168) cm / 31.5
(34.75, 37.75, 41, 44, 47.25) (50.5, 53.5, 56.75, 59.75, 63, 66.25)
inches
Yardage: Main Colour (TOP): 484 (544, 580, 642, 681, 798) (807, 848, 912, 971,
1037, 1082) meters
528 (593, 632, 700, 742, 870) ( 879, 924, 994, 1058, 1131, 1179) yards
Contrast Colour (BOTTOM): 404 (453, 483, 535, 567, 665) (672, 707,
760, 809, 865, 901) meters
440 (494, 527, 583, 618, 725)(733, 770, 828, 882, 942, 983) yards
Gauge: 20 stitches and 28 rows in stockinette = 10cm/4 inches
Suggested Needles: 3.75mm [US5] needle, 3.25mm [US3] needle, or needles required to
get gauge in both stockinette and colourwork, as well as one
0.5mm/2 US sizes smaller than the stockinette gauge needle for
ribbing.
@the.creabea
Creabea Knitting Podcast creabeadesigns@gmail.com
#TheCreabeaDesigns
#RhueSweater
About
Notes
Rhue is a top-down colourwork sweater worked in two colours. The yoke is constructed using
the contiguous method to shape first the shoulders and sleeves, and then with raglan
increases. The colourwork begins in the raglan section and continues through the body and
sleeves.
Yarn
The sample used The Fibre Company Lore [250m/100g]
Any yarn that meets gauge can be used in this pattern.
Sizing
5-8cm/2-3.25 inches positive ease at the chest is recommended.
A - Finished Chest Measurement
80 (88, 96, 104, 112, 120) (128, 136, 144, 152, 160, 168) cm / 31.5 (34.75, 37.75, 41, 44, 47.25)
(50.5, 53.5, 56.75, 59.75, 63, 66.25) inches
B - Bicep Circumference
28 (32, 32, 36, 36, 40) (44, 44, 48, 52, 56, 56) cm / 11 (12.5, 12.5, 14.25, 14.25, 15.75) (17.25,
17.25, 19, 20.5, 22, 22) inches
C - Yoke Depth( from mid-back neck cast-on to split for body and sleeves): 19 (20, 20.5, 21, 22,
22.5) (23, 24, 24.5, 24.5, 25, 26) cm / 7.5 (7.75, 8, 8.25, 8.5, 8.75) (9, 9.5, 9.75, 9.75, 10, 10.25)
inches
D - Shoulder Width
31 (32, 33, 34, 35, 36)(37, 38, 39, 40, 42, 44) cm/ 12.25(12.5, 13, 13.5, 13.75, 14.25)(14/5, 15,
15.25, 15.75, 16.5, 17.25) inches
Body Length from underarm(customisable)
35 cm / 13.75 inches (adjustable)
Sleeve Length from underarm (customisable)
43 cm / 17 inches (adjustable)
1
Sizing adjustments and Glossary
Picking a size and making adjustments
The contiguous construction of this sweater leads to a closer fit across the shoulders and bicep
than other styles. Take care to check the measurements in the schematic before selecting a size.
Some test knitters made changes to the yoke depth and arm circumference as follows.
Deepening the yoke
You can add more depth to the yoke by spacing out the raglan increases before splitting for
sleeves. Ensure to space these out evenly (e.g. every second round instead of every round).
The colourwork motif begins 18 rows before the sleeve split, so ensure that you maintain this.
More space at the bicep
Some sizes will be able to add increases on the sleeve every round instead of every second
round.
Some sizes have decrease rounds higher between the colourwork motifs, these decreases
can be omitted.
Work fewer body increases on the final rows of the yoke, cast these extra stitches on under
the arm. (do this with caution, you don’t want to add too many)
Abbreviations
BOR - beginning of round
CC - contrast colour
k - knit
k2tog - knit two stitches together [1 stitch decreased]
MC - main colour
M1L - make one left [1 stitch increased]
M1Lp - make one left purl [1 stitch increased]
M1R - make one right [1 stitch increased]
M1Rp - make one right purl [1 stitch increased]
p - purl
pm - place marker
rm - remove marker
RS - right side
sm - slip marker
ssk - slip, slip, knit [1 stitch decreased]
WS - wrong side
Techniques used
This pattern includes some techniques that may be new to knitters, for additional support see
the videos below
Catching Floats - (Alexis Winslow: Catch Floats in Stranded Knitting)
Picking up stitches - (Jessica McDonald - How to pick up stitches for a neckline)
Knitting colourwork inside out (this is absolutely not required, but may help maintain a more even
tension) - (Whitney Marie - Knitting inside out for stranded colourwork)
Folding over a collar - (Knits by K - Folded collar bind off)
2
Instructions
Start Here
The yoke is constructed in one piece with increase sections shaping the different areas. Firstly,
the piece is worked flat and the shoulders are shaped, then the neckline is shaped, and then
the sleeves. The work is joined in the round, with extra stitches cast on for the front neck and
the sleeves continue to be increased. Finally, raglan increases are done every round to finish
off the yoke.
Using main colour and your method of choice, cast on 52 (52, 54, 54, 56, 56) (58, 58, 60, 60, 62,
62) stitches on larger needle.
On the next row place markers to divide the work into sections and indicate where you’ll make
increases:
Next row (WS): P1, pm, p10, pm, p30 (30, 32, 32, 34, 34) (36, 36, 38, 38, 40, 40), pm, p10, pm, p1.
Shoulder Shaping
Row 1 (RS): Knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to
marker, sm, M1L, knit to end. [4 stitches increased]
Row 2 (WS): Purl to marker, M1Lp, sm, purl to marker, sm, M1Rp, purl to marker, m1Lp, sm,
purl to marker, sm, M1Rp, purl to end. [4 stitches increased]
Work Rows 1 and 2 a total of 7 times. You now have 108 (108, 110, 110, 112, 112) (114, 114,
116, 116, 118, 118) stitches on your needles: 15 on the two fronts, 10 for each sleeve and 58
(58, 60, 60, 62, 62) (64, 64, 66, 66, 68, 68) for the back.
You now continue the shoulder shaping, whilst also increasing at the neck edge to start neck
shaping on the RS rows.
Row 3 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, m1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm,
knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit until 1 stitch remains, M1R, k1. [6 stitches increased]
Row 4 (WS) Purl to marker, M1Lp, sm, purl to marker, sm, M1Rp, purl to marker, M1Lp, sm, purl
to marker, sm, M1Rp, purl to end. [4 stitches increased]
Work rows 3 and 4 a total of 1 (1, 1, 2, 2, 2) (2, 3, 3, 3, 4, 5) time(s). You now have a total of 118
(118, 120, 130, 132, 132) (134, 144, 146, 146, 158, 168) stitches: 18 (18, 18, 21, 21, 21) (21, 24, 24,
24, 27, 30) on each front, 10 for each sleeve, and 62 (62, 64, 68, 70, 70) (72, 76, 78, 78, 84, 88) for
the back.
Sizes - (2, 3, -, -, 6) (7, -, -, 10, -, -) only will need to work one more set of increase rows as
follows:
Row 5 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, m1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm,
knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit until 1 stitch remains, M1R, k1. [6 stitches increased]
Row 6 (WS): Purl to end.
You now have a total of - (124, 126, -, -, 138) (140, -, -, 152, -, -) stitches: - (20, 20, -, -, 23) (23, -, -,
26, -, -) on each front, 10 for each sleeve, and - (64, 66, -, -, 72) (74, -, -, 80, -, -) for the back.
3
Instructions
Sleeve shaping - All sizes
The 10 stitches on either side will become the sleeve stitches, and increases will be made
“inside” the markers to shape the sleeves. These increases are only done on RS rows. These are
worked whilst the neck shaping continues, also only on the RS.
Row 7 (RS): K1, M1L, knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, M1L,
knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit until 1 stitch remains, M1R, k1. [6 stitches increased]
Row 8 (WS): Purl to end.
Work Rows 7 and 8 a total of 3 times. You now have 136 (142, 144, 148, 150, 156) (158, 162, 164,
170, 176, 186) stitches on your needles: 21 (23, 23, 24, 24, 26) (26, 27, 27, 29, 30, 33) for each
front, 16 for each sleeve and 62 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) (74, 76, 78, 80, 84, 88) for the back.
Joining in the round
Round 1: Knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to
marker, M1R, sm, knit until end of row. Using the backwards-loop method, cast on 20 (18, 20, 20,
22, 20) (22, 22, 24, 22, 24, 22) stitches on your right-hand needle.
Break yarn. Slip left front and left sleeve stitches to right needle. Replace the existing marker
with a distinct BOR marker. Join yarn ready to work in the round. The BOR marker is at the start
of the back stitches. You now have 160 (164, 168, 172, 176, 180) (184, 188, 192, 196, 204, 212)
stitches on your needles: 18 sleeve, 62 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) (74, 76, 78, 80, 84, 88) front, and 62 (64,
66, 68, 70, 72) (74, 76, 78, 80, 84, 88) back.
Sizes 1-11 only:
Round 2: Knit complete round back to BOR, slipping markers as you come to them
Round 3: Knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to
marker, M1R. [4 stitches increased]
Work Rounds 2 and 3 a total of 5 (5, 6, 7, 8, 8) (7, 5, 3, 3, 2, -) times. You now have 180 (184, 192,
200, 208, 212) (212, 208, 204, 208, 212, -) stitches on your needles: 28 (28, 30, 32, 34, 34) (32, 28,
24, 24, 22, -) for each sleeve and 62 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) (74, 76, 78, 80, 84, -) for the back and front.
Sizes 8-12 only:
The outermost sleeve st on each side of the sleeve will become a raglan stitch in the next row;
you’ll be adding 4 more markers to denote the change.
Next round: Knit to marker, sm, k1, pm, knit until 1 stitch before next marker, pm, k1, sm, knit to
marker, sm, k1, pm, knit until 1 stitch before next marker, pm, k1.
You will work increases every other round for the body and for the sleeves as follows:
Round 4: Knit to end.
Round 5: *M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, k1, sm; repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches
increased]
Work Rounds 4 and 5 a total of - (-, -, -, -, -) (-, 4, 4, 2, 1, 3) times. You now have - (-, -, -, -, -) (-, 240,
236, 224, 220, 236) stitches on your needles: - (-, -, -, -, -) (-, 36, 32, 28, 24, 24) for each sleeve and -
(-, -, -, -, -) (-, 84, 86, 84, 86, 94) for the back and the front.
4
Sizes 7-12 only
Instructions
You will work increases for the sleeves every round and for the body every other round as
follows:
Round 6: Knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm, knit to marker, sm, M1L, knit to
marker, M1R. [4 stitches increased]
Round 7: *M1L, knit to marker, M1R, sm; repeat from * to end of round. [8 stitches increased]
Work Rounds 6 and 7 a total of - (-, -, -, -, -) (2, 1, 4, 5, 8, 8) times. You now have - (-, -, -, -, -) (236,
252, 284, 284, 316, 332) stitches on your needles: - (-, -, -, -, -) (40, 40 48, 48, 56, 56) for each
sleeve and - (-, -, -, -, -) (78, 86, 94, 94, 102, 110) for the back and the front.
Sizes 1-7
The outermost sleeve st on each side of the sleeve will become a raglan stitch in the next row,
you’ll be adding 4 more markers to denote the change.
Next round: Knit to marker, sm, k1, pm, knit until 1 stitch before next marker, pm, k1, sm, knit to
marker, sm, k1, pm, knit until 1 stitch before next marker, pm, k1.
You now have 4 sets of markers denoting the raglan stitches; you’ll increase outside of those
markers.
All sizes:
Your stitches will be divided as follows: 62 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) (78, 86, 94, 94, 102, 110) back
stitches, 1 raglan stitch, 26 (26, 28, 30, 32, 32) (38, 38, 46, 46, 54, 54) sleeve stitches, 1 raglan
stitch, 62 (64, 66, 68, 70, 72) (78, 86, 94, 94, 102, 110) front stitches, 1 raglan stitch, 26 (26, 28, 30,
32, 32) (38, 38, 46, 46, 54, 54) sleeve stitches, and 1 raglan stitch.
Start working the colourwork chart, increasing either side of the markers as indicated on the
chart. Make sure to use the correct version of Chart A and Chart B for your size. Some test
knitters chose to leave the raglan stitches all in the MC. Charts can all be found in the separate
charts document.
[Working order: Chart A, Chart D, Chart B, Chart C, Chart A, Chart D, Chart B, Chart C]
After working the yoke charts, you now have 252 (284, 300, 332, 348, 348) (380, 396, 428, 428,
460, 476) stitches on your needles. 74 (82, 90, 98, 106, 106) (114, 122, 130, 130, 138, 146) on the
front and back, 50 (58, 58, 66, 66, 66) (74, 74, 82, 82, 90, 90) for each sleeve, and 4 raglan stitches.
Split for sleeves
On the next round you’ll split for sleeves; this round is worked entirely in the MC.
Round 1: Work across the back stitches in MC to the next marker, rm, place the sleeve stitches
and the two raglan stitches on hold, cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 14) (14, 14, 14, 22, 22, 22) stitches using
the backwards-loop method, rm, work across the front stitches, rm, slip sleeve stitches and two
raglan stitches on hold, place new marker for BOR, cast on 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 14) (14, 14, 14, 22, 22, 22)
stitches using the backwards-loop method.
You now have 160 (176, 192, 208, 224, 240) (256, 272, 288, 304, 320, 336) stitches on your needle
for the body and two sets of 52 (60, 60, 68, 68, 68) (76, 76, 84, 84, 92, 92) stitches held for the
sleeves.
5
Instructions
Body
There are now 3 more colourwork charts to work though: Charts E, F, and G. Work each of these
in order.
After you complete Chart G, you will continue working the body in the round using only your CC.
Continue until the body measures 30cm/11.75 inches, from the underarm or desired length
minus 5cm/2 inches.
Change to your smaller needle size and knit 1 round.
Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 until your ribbing measures 5cm/2 inches. Bind off using a tubular bind-off, or
your preferred bind-off method.
Sleeves
Place the 52 (60, 60, 68, 68, 68) (76, 76, 84, 84, 92, 92) held sleeve stitches back on
your needle. Then, using the MC, pick up and knit 6 (6, 6, 6, 6, 14) (14, 14, 14, 22, 22, 22)
stitches under the arm. Place a BOR marker in the middle of the underarm cast-on
stitches.
You should have a total of 58 (66, 66, 74, 74, 82) (90, 90, 98, 106, 114, 114) sts.
Knit one round.
Note: Some knitters may need to go up a needle size to maintain gauge in the
colourwork on the smaller circumference sleeves.
When working the first row of the charts below, you will want to decrease away the
first and last of the held stitches with the last and first of the stitches picked up under
the arm. This will help prevent holes at the underarm. This will leave you with 56 (64,
64, 72, 72, 80) (88, 88, 96, 104, 112, 112) and you will work Chart E 3.5 (4, 4, 4.5,
4.5, 5) (5.5, 5.5, 6, 6.5, 7, 7) times through the round.
Work Chart E. Some sizes may not be able to complete a full chart repeat for Chart
E. Complete as many repeats as you can, then work halfway into the final repeat for
the stitches remaining. Take care to ensure your sleeve colourwork lines up across the motifs in
the same way it does on the body.
Work Chart F. Sizes 9-12 will need to decrease - (-, -, -, -, -) (-, -, 2, 2, 2, 2) stitches
in rows 2 and 8 of Chart F as follows, whilst maintaining the stitch pattern: K1, k2tog,
knit until 3 stitches remain, ssk, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Please note that these decreases will change where you start in the chart. Take care
that the stitch pattern continues to line up correctly.
6
Instructions
Work Chart G. Sizes 7-12 will need to decrease - (-, -, -, -, -) (2, 2, 2, 2, 2, 2) stitches
in rows 1 and 6 of Chart G as follows, whilst maintaining the stitch pattern: K1, k2tog,
knit until 3 stitches remain, ssk, k1. [2 stitches decreased]
Please note that these decreases will change where you start in the chart. Take care
to ensure that the stitch pattern continues to line up correctly.
You should have 56 (64, 64, 72, 72, 80) (84, 84, 88, 96, 104, 104) stitches on the
needles.
Once you’ve finished the colourwork charts, break your MC yarn and continue
working in the CC.
Work the decrease round below every 15 (8, 8, 7, 8, 5) (4, 5, 4, 3, 3, 3) rows 3 (3, 3,
3, 3, 9) (10, 5, 10, 15, 11, 15) times, and then every - (7, 7, 6, 7, -) (5, 4, 5, -, 2, -)
rows - (3, 3, 4, 3, -) (1, 5, 1, -, 6, -) times.
Decrease Round: K1, k2tog, knit until 3 stitches remain, ssk, k1. [2 stitches
decreased]
You will have decreased a total of 6 (12, 12, 14, 12, 18) (22, 20, 22, 30, 34, 30) stitches and have 50
(52, 52, 58, 60, 62) (62,
64, 66, 66, 70, 74) stitches remaining on the needles.
Continue working in stockinette until sleeve measures 38 cm/15 inches or 5cm/2 inches shorter
than the desired length from the underarm.
Change to your smaller needles to work the ribbing.
Sizes 4-12 will make a final set of decreases in the cuff as follows:
Decrease round: K - (-, -, 2, 0, 2) (2, 0, 2, 2, 2, 2), *k - (-, -, 12, 13, 13) (13, 14, 14, 14, 15, 16), k2tog;
repeat from * to end of round. [4 stitches decreased]
All sizes:
You should now have 50 (52, 52, 54, 56, 58) (58, 60, 62, 62, 66, 70) stitches on the needles for the
cuff.
Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 until ribbing measures 5 cm/2 inches. Bind off using the tubular bind off
method, or your bind-off method of choice.
Repeat for second sleeve.
7
Collar
Instructions
Using smaller needles and starting at the back right shoulder, pick up and knit 5 in every 7
stitches around the neck. Make sure to pick up an even number of stitches. Place marker for
BOR and join in the round.
Round 1: *K1, p1; repeat from * to end.
Repeat Round 1 until your collar measures 10 cm/4 inches.
Folded collar
Fold the collar stitches over and ensure they’re not twisted. Secure them to the cast-on edge on
the inside. You can do this by knitting one live stitch together with one stitch from the cast on-
edge, or you can bind off and sew the neckband down. You may want to add elastic to your
folded collar so that it keeps its shape over time.
Finishing
Weave in all ends, wash and block.
