POSTHASTE
adverb: with all possible speed
Shown In: Squish DK, a DK-weight, yarn by Spun Right Stitches and reminders: The left and right mitts use differ-
Round, in the color Spellbound and MCN DK, a DK-weight ent charts, as do the different sizes. Be sure you’re following
yarn by Knerd String, in the color Alpine Daisy. The darker the appropriate charts.
purple yarn with the large, brown speckles is the Squish I’ve called them left and right mitts to make them easier
DK. The lighter purple yarn with the small, pink speckles is to talk about, but they look good on either hand and you
the MCN DK. should feel free to wear them however you like.
The Spun Right Round yarn is made in the 46-stitch size at You’ll need a bit of scrap yarn at one point in the pattern.
6 stitches per inch with about 200 yards of yarn. The Knerd
String yarn is made in the 46-stitch size at 6.5 stitches per Make 1 right knitwise: With the left needle, lift the strand
inch with about 200 yards of yarn. If you’re making a larger of yarn between the last stitch you worked and the stitch
size or using thinner yarn, 250 yards is a safer bet. you would normally work next from the back to the front.
Knit into the loop created by the strand of yarn you just
Gauge and Sizing: Gauge is measured over ribbing as picked up.
shown on row 1 of the Main Chart.
Make 1 left knitwise: With the left needle, lift the strand of
Feel free to adjust your gauge a bit to fine tune the fit of the yarn between the last stitch you worked and the stitch you
piece. Just be sure that you’re working at a gauge that gives would normally work next from the front to the back. Knit
you a fabric you like with your chosen yarn. into the back of the loop created by the strand of yarn you
The chart below shows you the size of the arm (in inches) just picked up.
that the mitt will fit at various gauges and stitch counts. Right-leaning twisted knit decrease: Slip 1 as if to purl.
Measure at the widest point you want the mitt to cover Remount the next stitch so it is rotated 180 degrees (one
(about three inches down from the line where your palm half turn) clockwise. Return the slipped stitch to the left
meets your wrist). needle. Knit 2 together.
See notes at the end for more on how to use this chart. Left-leaning twisted knit decrease: Insert the right needle
5.5 spi 6 spi 6.5 spi 7 spi 7.5 spi from the right to the left into the back loops of 2 stitches.
Knit both together.
42 sts 8.5 7.75 7 6.5 6.25
46 sts 9.25 8.5 7.75 7.25 6.75
50 sts 10 9.25 8.5 7.75 7.25
2
Cast on: With your preferred stretchy cast on (I used the Thumb: Divide the stitches set aside for the thumb across
long-tailed cast on), cast on 42 [46, 50] stitches. Place 2 needles. Pick up 2 stitches to bridge the gap between the
marker and join for working in the round. first and last of the set aside thumb stitches. You will have
Cuff: Work row 1 of the appropriate Main Chart until the 14 [16, 18] thumb stitches.
cuff is as deep as you like. You may want to make a note of Work the thumb in knit 1 through the back loop, purl 1
how many times you work it so you can make the second ribbing (being sure to line the twisted stitch from your set
mitt the same way. aside thumb stitches up with a twisted stitch in your rib-
The ribbed part of these cuffs are about an inch deep as bing) until thumb reaches desired length.
shown, which I think works well for most mitts. But you Bind off loosely using your preferred stretchy bind off.
can absolutely make yours deeper if you prefer. Finishing: Remove marker. Weave in ends.
The different sizes use different charts, as do the left and Toss your mitts in cool water and let them get really soaked
right mitts. Be sure to follow the appropriate charts. (it can take a surprisingly long time, squeeze them a few
Wrist and increases: Work rows 2-39 [43, 47] of the ap- times to speed things along if you’d like). Scoop them out
propriate Main Chart once. As you work the last several and squeeze out the excess water (roll them in a towel and
rows of the Main Chart, you’ll be creating extra stitches for press even more water out if you want).
the thumb. When you finish row 39 [43, 47] you’ll have 54 Smooth the mitts out over something arm shaped if you
[60, 66] stitches on your needles. can find it (bottles from your bathroom or kitchen, vases,
Hand, part 1: Work row 40 [44, 48]of the appropriate Main water bottles, or rolled up flexible cutting boards all work
Chart until the mitt reaches the middle of your palm (just great) or just smooth them out flat if you can’t. Let them
past the point where your thumb joins your palm). You dry completely.
may want to make a note of how many times you work it so
you can make the second mitt the same way.
Hand, part 2: It’s time to locate and set aside the thumb
stitches. You’ll set aside different stitches for the left and
right mitt.
Left mitt: Locate and set aside stitches 43-54 [47-60,
51-66] on piece of scrap yarn. That’s the last 12 [14, 16]
stitches of the round if you don’t want to count from the
beginning.
Right mitt: Locate and set aside stitches 1-12 [1-14,
1-16] on piece of scrap yarn.
Work row 41 [45, 49] of the appropriate Main Chart until
you get close to the base of your fingers. You may want to
make a note of how many times you work it so you can
make the second mitt the same way.
Work row 42 [46, 50] for about an inch (if you worked row
1 at the beginning for about an inch like I did, I recom-
mend working row 42 [46, 50] for the same number of
times you worked row 1). You may want to make a note of
how many times you work it so you can make the second
mitt the same way.
Bind off loosely using your preferred stretchy bind off.
3
4
Left Main Chart, 42-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 42-stitch size, left mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-39 once. Work
row 40 until the mitt reaches the middle
of your palm. Work row 41 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
42 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
Right Main Chart, 42-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 42-stitch size, right mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-39 once. Work
row 40 until the mitt reaches the middle
of your palm. Work row 41 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
42 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
5
6
Left Main Chart, 46-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 46-stitch size, left mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-43 once. Work
row 44 until the mitt reaches the middle of
your palm. Work row 45 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
46 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
Right Main Chart, 46-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 46-stitch size, right mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-43 once. Work
row 44 until the mitt reaches the middle of
your palm. Work row 45 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
46 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
7
8
Left Main Chart, 50-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 50-stitch size, left mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-47 once. Work
row 48 until the mitt reaches the middle of
your palm. Work row 49 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
50 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
Right Main Chart, 50-stitch size
Notes: These charts are all worked in the
round.
You’ll follow a different Main Chart de-
pending on which size you’re making. This
chart is for the 50-stitch size, right mitt.
Work row 1 until the cuff is as deep as
you’d like. Work rows 2-47 once. Work
row 48 until the mitt reaches the middle of
your palm. Work row 49 until the mitt is
close to the base of your fingers. Work row
50 until the rib is as deep as you’d like.
Don’t worry about the funny shape of the
chart, those extra stitches are the ones you
create to make room for your thumb.
9
The hat is Forthwith, the companion
to the mitts.
Gauge and Sizing Chart: I try to write my wearable pat- Needle Sizes: Because you can knit my patterns at several
terns for lots of sizes and gauges. That means you can use different gauges, I can’t tell you what needle size to use.
many different weights of yarn and fit lots of people! But it Which totally makes sense...you almost certainly wouldn’t
also means you’ll need to check the chart at the front of the use the same needle to knit a fingering weight yarn at 7
pattern to see which size works best for the person you’re stitches per inch and a worsted weight yarn at 5.5 stitches
knitting for and the gauge you’re getting with your yarn. per inch!
I’ll walk you through an example of how you’d do this for a You really do need to swatch to find your gauge. Even if I
hat, but the concept is the same for everything. could suggest a needle size, you’d still want to swatch to be
Start by measuring the wearer’s head (wrap a tape measure sure because everyone’s gauge is different.
snugly around the head just above the eyebrows), then I can tell you that socks usually hold up better if you knit a
look at the chart. For this example, let’s say the head is 22.5 firm fabric on small needles (2 or 2.25mm is a good start).
inches around, and the sizing chart for the pattern looks For hats and mitts there’s a bigger range because you can
like this: use a wider array of yarns. I knit about 90% of my hats and
mitts (whether they’re in fingering weight yarn or worsted
5.5 spi 6 spi 6.5 spi 7 spi weight yarn or something in between) on 3 or 3.5 mm
108 sts 21.5 19.75 18.25 17 needles. But again, it varies hugely from knitter to knitter.
114 sts 22.75 21 19.25 18 I know you don’t want to hear it, but the only way to know
120 sts 24 22 20.25 18.75 for sure is to swatch. If you have absolutely no idea where
126 sts 25.25 23 21.25 19.75 to start swatching, try 2mm needles for socks and 3.5mm
needles for other things and go from there.
132 sts 26.5 24.25 22.25 20.75
138 sts 27.5 25.25 23.25 21.75 Charts: Almost all of my patterns use charts. Charts are
easy to follow, but they do require a bit of attention if you’ve
The column on the left lists the pattern sizes in stitches not used them before. The important thing to remember is
(sts). The top row lists the gauges in stitches per inch (spi). that charts show you a stylized picture of the right side of
The intersection of a column and row gives the head size your knitting.
(in inches) that a hat knit in that size and gauge will fit
If you’re working in the round, the right side of your fabric
(remember hats have a bit of negative ease, and that’s built
is always facing you, so the chart always shows you exactly
into the measurements in the table).
what to do. Just read each row of the chart from right to left
If you’re knitting for a 22.5-inch head, you’d scan through and make the stitch indicated in the key.
the numbers in the middle of the chart looking for 22.5 or
If you’re working flat, it’s a bit different. When you’re work-
things close to it. Knitting is stretchy so 22, 22.25, 22.75
ing a right-side row, read that row of the chart from right
and 23 will all fit.
to left and make the stitch indicated in the right-side (rs)
I’ve highlighted the sizes that would work for a 22.5-inch instructions in the key. When you’re working a wrong-side
head as an example. You could make the 114-stitch size at row, read that row of the chart from left to right and make
5.5 spi, the 120-stitch size at 6 spi, the 126-stitch size at 6 the stitch indicated in the wrong-side (ws) instructions in
spi, or the 132-stitch size at 6.5 spi. Pick whichever gauge the key.
gives you a fabric you like with the yarn you want to use.
Whether you’re working in the round or flat, always start at
This works just the same way with other projects. Start by the bottom of the chart and work your way up, one row at
measuring the wearer. Measure around the ball of the foot a time.
for socks or slippers, or around the widest part of the arm
A chart usually shows one full repeat of a stitch pattern.
that you want the mitt to cover for mitts. Look through the
Unless otherwise noted, this stitch pattern is worked across
chart for numbers close to your measurement. Knitting is
the entire row or round of the piece. Put another way,
stretchy so you don’t have to find an exact fit, but try and
“work the chart” means repeat the stitches of the chart, over
keep it within half an inch bigger or smaller if you can.
and over again, across the entire row or round until you
Socks, slippers, mitts, and hats all benefit from some nega- reach the end of the row or round.
tive ease. I like socks, slippers and mitts with about 10%
Sometimes you’ll see a chart that looks a little funny be-
negative ease and hats with between 10% and 15% negative
cause it has some missing spaces. That happens when there
ease. That’s already accounted for in the table, so you’re just
are a different numbers of stitches on different rows of a
looking for the actual foot or arm or head measurement.
stitch pattern or when your fabric is changing width (like at
the top of a hat).
14
Don’t worry about the missing spaces. Just ignore them
(yes, really!). You don’t do anything with your yarn or
needles when you see them, they’re only a placeholder on
the chart. Just let your eyes skip right over the blank spots,
move on to the next stitch that has a symbol, and do what-
ever that symbol tells you to do.
Questions: Have more questions? I probably have answers!
But first, it sounds a little mean, but there’s a very good
chance the answer you’re looking for is either in the notes
at the beginning of the pattern (that’s where you’ll find
things like stitch definitions), in the notes beside the charts,
or on this page or the one before it. Can I ask you to double
check and see if you can find what you’re looking for here?
It makes us both feel silly if you send me a question and I
write back to you and say ‘yes, it’s totally in the pattern, see
page 2!’
If you don’t find your answer here, then totally check out
SUNDRY
pantsvillepress.com/questions
There you’ll find answers to about 99% of the questions
people ask (and you’ll get your answer right away). And if
you still have a question, you’ll find contact info there to get
in touch with me.
Copyright: This pattern (including the text, charts, and
photos) is © Hunter Hammersen, 2021. Any illustrations
are © Lana Holden, 2021, and are used with permission.
You’re free to do whatever you want with the things you
make from my patterns. However you may not sell or oth-
erwise distribute the patterns themselves.
Looking for more: Want to keep up with what I’m doing?
Well that’s lovely, I’m pretty easy to find!
instagram:
instagram.com/hunterhammersen
ravelry:
INCORRIGIBLE
ravelry.com/designers/hunter-hammersen
twitter:
twitter.com/hunterhammersen
website:
pantsvillepress.com
And if you liked this pattern and want more like it, check
out these three. I think they’ll scratch the same itch!
HENCEFORTH
15
